#Planetary Imaging
1 messages Ā· Page 19 of 1
am streaming

Are you talking about pixel size of the camera in the last sentence? Pretty sure it's basically irrelevant since you can change the focal length of the scope with a barlow to get the same arcsecond per pixel no matter what your pixel size is. You do already have the asi585 which is basically the best planetary cam you could get. No idea how feasible it is but perhaps using an IR pass filter would allow you to use it as luminance for better seeing at the cost of max resolution.
Also since planets are pretty low in altitude for you, you could go for alternative targets like the ISS or tiangong which you could get at much higher altitudes with better seeing.
I was wondering if having a camera w/ a smaller pixel would give more details, particularly on my setup. Saturn stays low for me, but Jupiter gets higher, earlier in the evening, later in the year. So I figure I still have some opportunities.
As far as my camera ... when I'm hearing from multiple sources that what I have is pretty much the best that I can get then maybe I should let it rest on that and stop chasing pixels while I'm still learning, yeah? š
I've considered getting an IR Pass for the sake of imaging Venus. It sounds like I wouldn't be able to use it at the same time as the UVIR cut filter though. That said, with you and another one (I think Tom) saying to use IR Pass to get luminence ... I might try. Then again I want the better resolution for more details. Thoughts?
I've also considered imaging ISS, haven't heard of Tiangong, and for the amount of struggle and effort I have with getting a relatively slow moving target (planet) in frame then having to adjust ... I do want to eventually image the ISS ... and frankly other small targets but I also feel that I need to get a better handle on what I'm doing.
Then again I could always do what I've done before: "eh, let's just do it" and see what happens.
Actually FWIW I've actually tried to image ISS and it was a total flop. Then again at the time all I had was a 70mm/400 beginner scope and a cell phone camera. I didn't even get the ISS in frame and it's probably for the best. Something like that would have infuriated me to the point of just not even getting into the hobby and I would have missed out on all the good stuff that I have imaged.
Basically my point is: pixel size doesn't matter as it doesn't inherently give you more details. eg at 600mm fl with 1um pixels you get the same detail as at 1200mm fl with 2um pixels, assuming the aperture is the same ofc.
Afaik with IR pass filter, the benefit is that IR is less affected by the atmosphere, and since you aren't going to be limited by your resolution in decent/bad seeing you aren't really losing resolution if you can't get good enough seeing to get it with visible light. Yea you can't use the UV-IR cut but since you don't care about colour balance in a mono luminance image it doesn't matter pretty sure.
For the ISS it's actually fairly easy to do just need to get a well aligned finderscope, just put the scope in front of where the ISS will be in a second or two and let go of the tube to prevent vibrations. Keep shooting a video then you can use PIPP to extract all the pictures with the ISS in it. Shutter speed has to be set pretty fast, like 1-0.5ms I think due to how fast it moves? You can use the moon as a rough test of how bright the ISS will be at a specific exposure time ISS is brighter through. Check for high passes on here: https://heavens-above.com Over 70degrees or so is fairly close to the closest the station will be to you so you don't have to wait for a 89 degree pass for a nice image or anything.
And on the same scope, even in the best of conditions, 0.5um difference is negligible.
I'll have to think on the IR Pass filter, then. For imaging Venus, definitely. For other imaging it may help, I'll have to test/see.
The principle is easy - if you can "lead" the ISS then it's easy. I'd probably want a wider field for that capture anyhow, not the standard "just enough to capture the target" I have for the planets. However, it rests on my ability to "lead" and the alignment of my finder scope. Okay, I'm not talking myself out of it, I'm acknowledging challenges. I do want to image that, I think it would be really neat. If I did capture it my neighbors would see me dancing for sure.
Oh definetly don't use the same barlow as for planets, that would be very hard to get in frame. It is definetly a balance between how accurately you can get it in frame vs how big it would be in the image. I think I used a 2-3x barlow at most with 4.29um pixels on an APS-C sensor, and mostly took pictures over video as otherwise I'd be limited to a sensor size smaller than an asi120. Good luck!
Also I may be wrong but pretty sure most of the cloud details on venus are taken with a UV filter? Not entirely sure what IR would get you
I have so far not been able to get a good decent image w/ my 5x Barlow, even with my scope now being properly collimated on a night w/ avg seeing, so my default has been, and would be, my 3x. Might try to shop for a better one later on. Budget $50 from Astromania has served me nicely so far though. I think if you see my most recent images in the #older_system_pics section you might agree. The 5x I bought for imaging w/ my DSLR might not be used as often now.
I thought the clouds on Venus were done w/ an IR Pass?
As the Title saysHaving trouble with collimation at the moment i tried fitting a washer to my secondary to comabat digs. But its moving. At least thats what i hope it is ? Having to re collimate constantly. And the images from this night ( And recently ) will have been hit and miss. From very sli...
Pretty sure the 5x would be too much even if you had perfect seeing with the 585. Do try to extend the 3x to a 3.5x or 4x when you do get good seeing through
Thank you. You just saved me a truckload of frustration by showing me that. I would have bought the IR Pass for Venus, not seen much more, then not been happy.
Or stack 2 of my 2x's for same effect? š
hey guys, with winjupos do i sharpen my stacks before using it, sharpen after using it, or both? and do i rgb balance and align before or after as well?
np, there is a 1010nm IR filter that makes it possible to see the heat from venus's surface on the unlit site but it's pretty hard to do since you need long exposures and quite a lot of light. Tom did it before pretty sure.
I think it's unsharpened stacks input then you sharpen the output?
perfect thanks, and do you know if i rgb balance and align for my inputs?
I'd be happy to get cloud visuals on the side that can be seen!
Pretty sure you do rgb align before, but you can do rgb balance later.
perfect thank you
At what size aperture would I need to consider derotation of even a short video?
Kinda scuffed Aristarchus crater tonite
I wouldnt' worry. Whatever caused the crater kinda scuffed the moon so ... it works I suppose.
ld 0.8 ld angle 0.8
what does that mean?
like this?
and where do i edit ld angle?
or do i do it here @sharp ridge? and i can't edit ld angle any lower than 1
yeah
ld angle 80 ig
i changed it like this and it worked is that ok?
should i use barlow ?
what's your setup
Of course
144/900 scope and webcam
900/144 = f/6.25
Your f ratio (focal ratio) should be roughly 5-7x your pixel size of your camera. No idea what your camera pixel size is, but if you got a 2x barlow you would go
f/6.25 x 2 = f/12.5
Probably still not barlowed enough but a webcam isn't great anyway so I wouldn't build a barlow/setup around it
And a 2x has future uses for you
That's fine
TBH I don't think that anyone here would ever say "No" to the question "should I use a Barlow" when imaging.
maths (its 7.8)
just expose for 5-10ms and then turn up your gain until your histogram is about 60%
keep exposure between 5-10ms for good seeing
pix size is 2.8um
do 5-10ms instead, 62.5ms is way too long
2.8um x 5 = ~f/15
so you want a 2x or 3x barlow
ill try
ok
can i use backlit comp
if too dim, just increase gain a bunch until histogram is roughly 60%
No need
My best Saturn so far:
ok
equipment?
Mot much more I can do with it in UK.
C11, SW EQ8 R Pro, Asi 120mc -s ADC..the use.
Processing AS3, Regist., Ps.
High air humidity, my equipment got so wet, looked like it rained on it, surprized I didn't get an electric shock, lol.
nicee
I've debated the merits of putting something on some of my electronics. Then again I don't have a cover for my laptop so I'd rather not think of what goes on with that. š¬
Ty.
I got it switched so it works remotely, mini pc 'n all.
Although I'm still close by, just working off of a tablet / pc remoted into the mini pc.
if you need a barlow suggestion, i can recommend the gso 2.5x barlow, in reality it's ~2.2 or 2.3x but it's really good
This was w/ a Barlow x2.
i already have a barlow both 2x and 3x
Lol.
ahh ok well the 3x is a better choice i think but try both!
hey guys, i just got back from a holiday, and noticed an area in the middle of my FOV with LOTS of dead pixels. I had never seen anything like it at all, and AS!3 is aligning using these dead pixels instead of planetary features, so its affecting my imaging. if you open the image and zoom in you can see it. if anybody knows why this happens please let me know.
p.s. my dad used the camera while i was away, but said he didnt overexpose anything, and he also cleaned the sensor. possibly the cleaning caused it?
oki
How old is the camera? Could be age, could be overexposure, could be the cleaning
abt a year old
however it never happened before my holiday
it looks really bad in full resolution
these pics are just preview saves from asiair
Sensor looks dirty
What camera? Cleaning it generally a bad idea can cause more harm than good
Speaking as someone who has dropped his 585 in the dirt ... yeah, improper cleaning would do more harm than that.
šµ
Blue blob
single from tn before i sleep
back in business after a year, with some fair seeing at dawn
Absurd
Ask him for pictures of something specific like the primary mirror
294mc pro
doesnt the sensor have a protective class element?
or is it just the straight sensor
oh my... i very much was seeing limited i finally got "above average" seeing according to astrospheric and wow i can tell
Phases of Mercury
Straight sensor from what I know
This high pressure weather front goes hard frfr
Do mars phases now lol
Nice!
Blue channel during perfect seeing
5" ?
yes, final image here #older_system_pics message
really good
thanks š
how do you do it?
your images with a 5" look like they were taken with at least 6" or even 8"
#1019937457095065731 message I described the process here, it didn't change much since then
This image probably reaches the limit of a 5" somewhere between red and green wavelenghts, my 5" can do a bit better than that š
yes, I usually use the star to estimate coherence time before imaging, but maybe that can also be done on Jupiter's moons
How do you construct a PSF from a star?
just stack 1-5% of a ~1min video using AS!3
out of curiosity what's a PSF?
Point Spread Function so pretty much the amount of blurring caused by atmospheric seeing in the case of AP
ah i see what does that do?
By telling the program you are using for deconvolution what the PSF is, a variable that can change from night to night or even moment to moment, you are essentially telling it by how much your image should be āunblurredā
ohh ok got it thatās interesting
also does anyone here have any tips for processing or anything i can do with this image? im very happy with it but i wanna squeeze out all that i can
In the case of planetary processing, I figured the best you can acheive with the PSF and deconvolution is to correct for optical defects, and not seeing, there is no reason for the seeing to affect the star and the planet in the same way as they are not taken at the same time and at different places in the sky, so taking a 1min video with very short exposure time (close to 1ms, or less) and stacking 1-5% to avoid integrating turbulence works almost every time
fuccc i got my stuff stacked of europa disappearing (occult)?
it looks v good
just needs astrosurface :((
Yeah good point. So yeah it does do the āunblurringā thing. Just not to correct for seeing, but for optical defects
is drizzling a good idea for planetary?
If your undersampled
Meaning your pixels are too large for your focal length
Thus loosing finer detail, which drizzling can somewhat help resolve.
how do i know if im undersampled?
What's your focal length and pixel size?
2.9 pixel size and im not sure of my exact focal length, i have a native focal length of 750mm, and then i use a gso 2.5x barlow (so it's really ~a 2.2x) and a barlow extension
Why would it be 2.2x?
Also a Barlow extension should increase the magnification from 2.5x.
How long is the Barlow extension?
according to the person who suggested it to me, it doesnāt always get it up to 2.5x since itās cheap
25mm if i remember correctly
well with that extension it may not even be 2.75x
lemme do one with 2.5x mag
hmm ok, so if im oversampled what do i do to fix that, or do i have to at all?
but yea you shouldnt drizzle for one, wont help at all.
Your likely only a bit oversampled so dont worry about it.
perfect thanks, though out of curiosity what does oversampling and undersampling even mean?
This is undersampled
Oversampled just means your pixels are tinier than either your optical limit or seeing can make use of.
ohh i see thank you!
Any difference in optics for the 6SE and the C6
C6 OTA vs Nexstar 6SE and mount... - posted in Cats & Casses: Ive given up on a 127/120mm f/9.4 refractor and now would like to pursue a SCT C6 OTA or a Nexstar 6 SE with the mount of course. If I get the C6 OTA, Id mount it on my Atlas EQ-G, which I already have. Now for the $.....for the OTA is $460 with tax/delivered. The Nexstar 6 SE is $...
I'll buy.
Best I can do is $3.50 though.
You already have an 8ā lol
Had to send a Pawn Stars reference.
hahah gamestop too
No but can you sell your seeing please
I can search up hotels near me
No just send the seeing over here you can do that right?
Would if I could sometimes
Maybe I can increase my carbon footprint and help make weather patterns vary more
š
Anytime
3000 frames from 10-1-23
2400mm f/12 - QHY-5L-mono
Above average seeing now that I think about it. Not quite as good as the first night.
Am i undersampled? I have a 130/900mm newt and asi224mc (3.75µm)
Are you using a barlow of any kind?
If for planetary yes i use a 2x barlow, if its for dss i dont use a barlow
Can the Celestron C6 fit on the CG-4 Mount?
Itās been ages since Iāve seen cg4 specs but Iām going to bet yes..
A c6 is pretty light my friend
Iām assuming the sct c6 not the refractor c6 from Celestron
It would be nice to have a c8 but I have a really low budget
Wondering if I could plop my eq1 with the C6
Yeah thereās still a lot of potential waiting to be used for your scope and cam, just keep the pace 
So my scope and my cam are working in harmony and they have potential?
Yeah should be, I donāt know anything about ZWO ASI but right now Iām working with pretty nice Jupiter detail with my 114/900 (4.5ā Newt) and Iām pretty sure I still have some more to unlock
Yeah UV/IR Cut filter is a need, pretty cheap as well
Ye probably going to order one pretty soon
Your EQ2 motorized mount should work fine, but if itās takes to long for the wobble to die down after you move it without slow mo controls then yeah thatās something to aim for
It takes about 5 seconds to clam down the wobble, the problem is the polar aligning also i want a goto mount, its hard trying to find the objects
Youāll get used to finding objects when you find yourself going back to the same place every night, star hopping is fun sometimes
Ok i guess i can supress my pain
Iām here with a EQ1 mount and soon a $30 manual star tracker 
You will get used to it, when its brighter objects its easy, but dim objects are pain in the ass
Celestron lists it on their website to have a payload of 20 pounds like an EQ5 but it's not that high. That mount is an EQ3
For planetary eq3 can probably hold a C6 but absolutely not a C8
My mount is a CG4, I've taken it apart, I've seen the insides, even on the outside it's visibly eq3 too
new saturn
i first thought one of it's moon is dust on my laptop screen
noice btw
what setup tho
was it that bad?
well, not terrible. above average for me. 4/10 for everyone else
well well even i think that a good window for ap is very rare where i live
you got that from such weather is still better than me having hubble
How can i fix the colour on my saturn, i did the color calibration or sum in registax
Welp time to buy an UV/IR cut filter
Very lovely, couldn't tell that the seeing was bad based on this image
Look forward to a perfect night of seeing for you
Yea you shouldnt have any issues. Your a bit oversampled so better then being undersampled.
My good seeing got blocked by bad weather 
HOLY CRAP TODAY IT SAYS IM IN THE PERFECT ZONE
I need to image Saturn
Tomorrow is also good seeing too
October is the good seeing month 
For the filters, should I select RGB instead of L in FireCapture?
noice
Regi auto balance doesnāt really work on Saturn, always makes it way too blue. I normally balance on Jupiter, and then copy the settings and manually input them on the Saturn stack
But thatās just bc I prefer to stick pretty close to true color most of the time
I donāt get how teoman gets that kind of angular size of Jupiter with that size of a primary
Now if my skies looked like that ... Rings and Cassini are crystal clear in that, it'll only get better in processing.
That's one of mine?
oh the one in general lol
what altitude did you shoot at @white prawn
So far the best seeing I've had is avg - 3/5. Past couple of nights have been hazy as all get out so no dice.
Hm. Let me check
OH FER CRYIN' OUT LOUD
Could certainly be worse
And just because I tried
Jupiter's at Zenith between 1-2am, I can't be up that late. I'm waiting for it to zenith earlier.
Fair enough
At least this time it's above 20 though
I do most of my Jupiter imaging at around 5am before I leave for school, still like 50deg altitude around then
I've thought about that
I never bother imaging under 30deg tbh, but Saturn doesnāt get much better than that anyway
Saturn doesn't hit 40 anyhow.
Hm. Might have to see where Jupiter is next time I'm up first thing in the morning. Try an image. I'd have to be up at around 4:30 or so, which would not be fun.
Worth trying if you will be awake anyway, it should be much better than 20° lol
But youāll only be able to get away with that for a little bit, when opposition hits in a month itāll be setting at sunrise
my saturn was at like 32 or 34
near meridian
will u must get the seeing I do, going thru ur gallery š
Actual hype for zenith Saturn later this decade
yea
It was really good a couple days ago, insane stability
yea something weird going on w weather in us lol
ofc im gonna be clouded out after new planetary scope comes smh
Figures
Should still be a noticeable improvement over the 6, unless itās actual garbage seeing
Guys. What am I doing here.
yeah id think so too. if 14" ass seeing shots look like our good seeing..
hmm usually u dont wannn touch the right side wavelets alot (large scale)
Yep, larger scopes under poor seeing can resolve small things better than small scopes with good seeing
lol i wish i had the $ for a c11 but oh well
Did I say I wanted a 24" scope? Still do.
Like the Cassini div, Iāve never gotten it in the front, but 12ā+ scopes get it without even trying
im really hype for the visual side of things too
i still remember how good 8" dob visual was
scrumptious
but yea the central obstruction is less
i remember quite the contrast lol
if i never sold that dob id def be using it with tube rings for planetary on the eq6
would look like a mf monster lol
So hyped for thisssss. Wide ring tilt at 70deg
what do u think ur next scope is gonna be?
Who wants data?
12ā manual dob most likely. Will be pairing it with an EQ platform for tracking
yea u can throw it in before i sleep
About to go to sleep, otherwise Iād give it a try
If I don't have a bigger scope by then I'm going to be disappointed.
I canāt wait for titan shadow transit in 2024-25
lol same i may still have the c9.25 by then tho idk
Oh yeah thatāll be great
maybe ill be done with scts then 
Have fun. Through my 5x Barlow, seeing was average. Not sure if Barlow or seeing.
What length exposures do you use btw
i am seeing some weird color aberrations
Need an adc for sure
also v noisy
Exposure=9.1770ms
That was only the first thing I noticed.
I go for like 12, but if seeing is so bad then might help to go shorter as long as you get enough data to support it
I was like, "oh hey, it separated into red, center, and blue! I'll have a lovely time with that!" sigh.
Same night I got some decent data through my 3x. So I don't know if it's seeing and the Barlow just brings it out, or if seeing and the Barlow ... was overpriced. š¦
Then again it got some great shots with a DSLR on a night with great seeing. So likely not the Barlow itself. Just seeing and the not fun part of the seeing got magnified.
I can't believe I'm using "great" to describe some shots taken before my scope was collimated. š
what barlow is it again
The Orion High-Power 1.25
Hm yea Iād think itās good
Funny thing is the amount of research I did on that was "This is not from Amazon, it's multi-element and all elements fully coated, not sure what that means but that sounds really good."
multi elements would mean its good for preventing chromatic aberrations. or should be
and yeah coatings referring to good light transmission, the added elements isnt affecting how much light passses through to a significant degree
any barlow should have good coatings though
Yeah, those are a few things I've learned along the way.
Anyone tried the ES Barlow?
Nope.
I have a Celestron 2x, Svbony 2x, Astromania 3x, and Orion 5x.
... stacking them would be ... interesting. š³
Wonder how Jupiter would look being imaged through that setup with the ASI585
It's the camera I bought but never even used yet. š¦
Oh man. I feel ya.
For Saturn, I have 15 Ms exposure, maybe I should lower that a bit, what gain should I set it at?
Doesn't it depend on exposure, aperture etc?
Donāt know, all I just do is fiddle with the settings
But my Saturn stacks always come out noisy
Even in good seeing I get pretty noisy images
It does depend on exposure, aperture, gain, light.
Fiddle some more.
Would getting more frames help with all of the noise?
It should
Not neccesasirly with all.
Not sure tbh. I have my exposure down to 9ms and the gain/light/contrast adjusted so that I can see what I'm imaging and also so that it's not too bright. 3min of that gets me 18-20K frames. Ofc you have some folks saying to use less of the frames ... but if you have 5K frames to sort from vs. 20K frames to sort from, well, that's more opportunity to get a perfect shot in the frame.
Or you could just take @main flume's answer, it really sums up what I said.
@white prawn are you using any filters?
UVIR cut
I've considered it; I have to purchase one first.
Yeah I was recommended this one https://www.firstlightoptics.com/narrowband/antlia-125-ir-pass-685nm-planetary-filter.html
First Light Optics - Suppliers of Astronomy telescopes, binoculars and accessories from Skywatcher, Celestron, Meade, William Optics, Atik, Imaging Source, Starlight Xpress, ADM, Moonlite, Catseye, Hutech and others.
NIR filters are super handy for mid seeing, basically turns 3/5 to 4/5 seeing depending on your standards 
Fair. Maybe 6.5
I thought someone said it would be sacrificing detail for brightness/clarity? I'm leaning toward getting the filter, I just want to know what to expect.
Jool I mean Jupiter with this kind of seeing 
the green channel is just max brightness
The heck
I never encountered that before
I started getting lost frames
And then I restarted it and it asked for my cam
But everything is fine
I have ina in my live feed
Do you use a green light pollution filter?
If that's the case you turn the images into grayscale using autostakkert
Just fix white balance
Gentlemen
It's been far too long
I'll be out imaging tonight for the first time since early spring. Excellent transparency and an interesting Jupiter moon orientation w/ Io and Callisto
Ik
I just remove green noise and do color calibration and I get the right colors
I cooked up some absolute banger jupiter images
cool
Saturn from 10-1
3000 frames - 20% stacked
QHY 5L mono on my Orion XT8 dob utilizing a Orion 2x shorty
My first proper moon photo ššš¤©
2.5min video, around 20k frames (40%) stacked with autostakert and then processing with registax
Telescope bresser NT203/1200, camera Canon D600
Just shot the same transit myself
Excellent capture willaf, you've improved substantially since last season
Thank you man, appreciate that :D
This Video shows the ISS transits Jupiter on 9th June, 2015 at 23:26:56. It was made with a Alccd5l planetary cam through a 10" Skywatcher Newton Telescope on the NEQ6 mount.
Feel free to share!
Website: http://jwastronomy.com/
Instagram: J.W.Astronomy
https://youtu.be/oHcMvF-nP2s?si=fwIUmyvbx0SH56Uh this one is even cooler I think
The International Space Station (ISS) transits Mars, as captured from San Diego, CA on September 14, 2020 at 05:15:47PDT (12:15:47UT).
This required being positioned exactly on the line shown in the map in the video, to within less than 100m accuracy on the ground (Calsky reported the path width of the transit as 90m, so 45m on each side of cen...
Fix it in firecap already
why do people do that glow on hdr moon photos
It's an artistic choice technically, but also adds to the natural look when seeing the moon with your eyes.
Indeed it is
Yerrr
The original was more "dreamy" but it sacrifices a lot of lunar features around the edge.
I think it looks more natural tho
Gracias
Oo nice
Is that a dead pixel or a star š¤š¤š¤š¤??
On the left corner ??
Damnnn
wait since when did you have a 12 lol
Oh from someone else on ig lol. Basically same time as me on 10-1
Maybe 10 mins apart in these shots
My cam is limiting my 8" a fair amount.
mercury be like
Mollyinspace right
Feel like she does something weird either in acquisition or in processing
Her captures look really nice but they always look a little āoffā or something
Uhh ask Tom for some raw data from his old days or something for 12ā dob
Yeah but also weirdly grainy
Not the point
ah
Not hating on her images though, I think theyāre awesome

Jup through my 8" dob and QHY 5L mono - 3000 frames (15% stacked)
2400mm at f12 (extended Barlow so more towards 2800mm prolly)
Luminance and color Registered and stacked in AS!3 and sharpened in Astrosurface - both combined in Photoshop.
this is my best image of saturn so far. I took it with a seben 6" bird jones telescope and a ceres-c(imx224) + gso 2.5x barlow lens
Can you send me the data? I would love to try it out
I deleted my unprocessed stacks, I only have one left. I still have the winjupos data and the processed stacks tho
The video I mean
Or I could just use this image
I'm gonna give it a go a bit later
Should I DM you the result?
I dont have the videos, but I can send the rest of the data that I still have in here!
here is a link:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1Se6nAM2EkBZw7KQIEnQt6FE90vZo6x8j?usp=drive_link
Access Google Drive with a Google account (for personal use) or Google Workspace account (for business use).
You can send the tiffs in discord.
Planetary files should be small enough to be under the limit
oh, good to know but I already put them in a google drive so I dont see the point
For sure. Just easier for next time.
yea
btw, does my saturn image look too green to you because on my laptop I see it just fine but on my phone is underexposed and green
idk why tho
its wierd, to me it looks fine, the colors are ok and propperly exposed
Yeah, my laptop is notoriously bad too. I had to spend a whole afternoon calibrating it to match my phone and main PC
Surely this looks super purple to you then?
likely your laptop monitor colours are not calibrated properly
how is this, I made it a bit brighter
wierd, no it looks good
you can use AstroSurface to fix the colours up a bit (or Registax if you prefer)
Needs an increased gamma I think. Exposure is fine, but contrast is a little too aggressive imho
now?
Yeah much better. This is around what I'd have:
Colour wise I mean. This is balanced in Photoshop automatically, so it ignores monitor calibration.
Just uses histogram
yea, now it looks like it has to much magenta to me, it should look good on my phone tho
hopefully
yep, checked and it looks good! Thanks, Tom!
If you have Registax, you can use the auto-color option, and then adjust the temperature towards the yellow end. Registax auto colour is always blue-heavy.
Photoshop you can just use autocolour and it's pretty close first time.
and no worries.
sound good!
With my processing, I usually just look at my older images and try to match them for consistency.
oh yea, If I download the image from the browser will I still have discord comprossion?
Once you've done one nicely and you're happy - you can just copy to match it.
Shouldn't. It's uncompressed PNG
perfect
The one under Curves > Auto > Find Dark and Light (0% for clip shadows and highlights)?
Correct. I do have a more complex way of getting it consistent every time but this is the basic way.
Does anyone have an idea on whether it'd best to use drizzle, or resample in AS!3 for undersampled data? Drizzle 3x seems to give bad artifacts when sharpening. The sensor is 1280x960.
Makes sense. I've mostly been doing it manually in Camera Raw, so I'll try to compare results
Straight from the green-heavy raw images this is.
It worked ok for me when I has using AS!3
What you mentioned only works well for images that are fairly close to normal in terms of balance
Manual is fine if you're close to balanced, and it's only minor adjustments you're performing.
2x resample is the only one that hasnt left artifacts
I need to test it again
Do you guys sharpen your images a bit more after derotating in winjupos?
Depends how much SNR is left to play with.
Generally, yeah
Right, got it. Did a quick comparison and it seems like it worked pretty well, don't think mine are too far off balanced
Resultant autobalanced image was far brighter though, and better contrast than my manual process. Surprisingly good
There is no "correct" colour tbh with the way OSC cameras and our eyes work. As long as it's close enough, it'll do 
You can reduce the output brightness.
By pulling the highlight slider
so is this better? I shaped it a bit more after derotating.
think balancing based off of your own previous images is definitely the way to go. had one image a little too blue, and the next a little too red.
Tons better. Detail on the north polar region is much more defined. I'd increase the brightness a little, but other than that well done
but isnt it a bit overcooked? It looks to me like it is
definitely a little overcooked but the improvement is there
i'd go softer personally
like this?
Looks better but maybe a bit softer even?
Too easy. Cheers for that
Might try do a proper process using auto balance first, still needs some corrections but looks like it could be done with a pretty light hand
I think this is good enough on sharpening, Idk about the colors tho
btw sorry for all of the saturn images that I sent, just trying to get better
this should be good, right?
It is noisy, but you captured some realy nice details, looks realy good !
Decon for denoise
You're essentially convoluting and deconvoluting, but you preblur enough that the pixel-scale noise is removed
I mean it did denoise it but I feel like it just makes the noise scale bigger most of the time
Technically you lose pixel-scale detail too but if you're oversampled it's not gunna be detail anyway
Sure, but it's much improved
We need a version of noiseX for planetary/lunar.
Phew
For some reason I thought u werenāt supposed to but I did anyways
It looks weird
Yea its too much, on the bottom part some bands should be visible
Gonna take a wild guess here and say you used ai
So why send it
Because you didnāt improve it
Yeah sure, I just wouldnāt appreciate it personally
Bit much but dayum thatās clean
you took this with the seben 150??? That's impressive...
if a bird Jones can do this...I wonder what my little 130P could do
Thanks, idk why so many people hate on bird jones telescopes, they are cheap, portable and quite sharp
I took this image with the same setup
Nice image, I could get your level of details or even better when I will have perfect collimation but its hard to achive it without a laser
Cheshire collimating eyepiece >>> laser, well worth it
No
Star collimation on top
cheshire still better
star collimation is a useful test but not nearly as easily precise or convenient
Might print one
laser doesnt give perfect collimation
You have to collimate your laser collimator... Because apparently the manufacturer doesn't deal with that unless your paying close to 200 USD for one... ridiculous tbh.
how do I get better focusing easier with this shit sct focuser
Even the 250-400Ā£ laser collimators are out of collimation sometimes.
And of course they make it as hard as possible to reach the damn screws to fix the laser's collimation.
People go back and forth endlessly on collimation techniques, and from everything I've seen, the simple answer seems to be JUST USE A CHESHIRE
Anyone object or have something to add?
Agree wholeheartedly. Somebody mentioned a Tribahtinov mask above as well, which sounds good but I haven't personally used yet.
I need to collimate in the dark so will need to add a laser probably
Or maybe use flashlight with cheshire combo tool
Do this
Will have to collimate my scope every time feelsbad.
Which should be done anyway just to confirm everything is set.
Yeah but I have to reassemble the scope every time.
Will see how hard it will be
Wait, what
I have to get it into car and drive away from home since my garden is light polluted.

Wait, don't you have like a huge scope?
Yea but itās somewhat portable.
For certain allowances in the definition of the word "portable", yes.
I was going for 8ā tube but someone said that even 16ā will fit into my car so i went with it lol
Probably was a bad idea xd
Eh, if I had a site darker than my yard I prob would have gone for a 16" as well.
At least you donāt have clouds nonstop I guess
Seeing in UK is a meme.

I was shut out of astro from April to September basically
Canāt do planets from your backyard?
I always said buying equipment in uk is a silly idea but in the end it was stronger than me lol
Wanted to spend 500Ā£ at first, already spent 2300Ā£ lol
That's where all my AP is done. š
I'm actually really grateful for the location I have right now. Smaller than my other house, but it's a clear area, one of the larger backyards in the neighborhood, and the way everything is aligned I have a near unobstructed view E-W and while my house comes up in the S it's below most things I'm interested in imaging anyway.
Also im afraid it will be hard to target stuff with such small sensor and 3x barlow but yolo.
Hey, when you get those clear nights, you want to make the most of them.
What should be my settings for my ISS pass tomorrow?
Also I have no idea how will I align my RDF at night lol
I think I actually got Uranus on my 585 through my 3x Barlow a few nights ago. On a completely manual setup. If I can do that, so can you.
OH!
Was it very hard to keep it framed?
I heard similar to@Venus but idk
Quarter of a millisecond, set gain so that a star like Vega is just a little point
What in the world is a focal extender?
And do I want to pay $15 for a Celestron kit that has that and what looks like a sorry junk-cheap 3x I'd hate to call it a Barlow.
Idk the difference
First Light Optics - Suppliers of Astronomy telescopes, binoculars and accessories from Skywatcher, Celestron, Meade, William Optics, Atik, Imaging Source, Starlight Xpress, ADM, Moonlite, Catseye, Hutech and others.
I didn't think so. Jupiter and Saturn are more of a challenge; that said my FOV is tiny so I can get the most frames.
It says both focal extender and barlow
Well I mostly want Jupiter and Saturn because what else?
Oh it went cheaper by 9Ā£
If I had a 16" I'd be hounding Uranus and Neptune.
That said, if you take out gear slop, I manually get and keep Jupiter/Saturn in frame on my 800x600 FOV. Which ... I should screenshot a live view so you can see how much that takes
Thanks
Iāll send a pic of my settings when itās about to happen
Got bad seeing here though so not sure if can get them.
What means gear slop?
The focal extender I saw at the shop said 20mm at the top. Hm. Well given that I have everything else in there and what they set in there with a Barlow label is ... well, they can call it that I suppose but it would maybe make a better shot cup if the bottom were sealed. Anyway, I'll save my money.
Gear slop = sloppy gears. Basically when I do a fine/slight adjustment, the gear will slip and the scope will move a LOT. Lost Jupiter from the frame more than once the other night because of that.
Yeah I guess it will happen a lot.
Have you heard about that trick where you rotate the camera?
Erm, no?
Like you@rotate the camera and change resolution lets say to 1200x360. And then you can supposedly frame the target just by moving scope left or right
So itās wide but narrow vertically
This way you can get more fps I believe also
I see. Makes sense. I actually imaged the moon like that one night. Still dropped plenty of frames. BUT I guess I have a potato w/ 8GB RAM so I can't say I'm bothered by just narrowing my FOV to 800x600 or 640x480
Isnāt 8gb enough?
I can easily add ram to my laptop it has 8gb and 256gb ssd so Ithink about adding 1tb.
š„
I only did test once at home and was getting like 140fps
With 8gb ram
Maybe itās more about cpu?
Seriously 8 GB should be enough esp for the majority of my imaging tasks especially since planetary uses a small FOV. If I wanted full FOV I'd need more prob. You're right, RAM is an easy enough upgrade.
Let's compare notes - mine is a Core i5 10th gen.
Mine is i5-8250U
But I bought it only for imaging
8th gen
Hm.
I wish adding ram/ssd to my Mac was that easy. Lol
Small amoutn of SSD space, and using mechanical drive for the imaging.
So you have a problem with low fps or loosing frames or smth?
Only at higher resolutions.
I was actually just thinking that.
I also have no idea where to put the laptop while imaging so I can see the display lol
I was thinking of updating the secondary drive to a larger SSD - my computer is a Dell that uses 120 GB SSD for system and 1TB HDD for storage - I record to the 1TB. Been thinking about updating the 1TB HDD to a 2TB+ SSD
Yeah, that one is a challenge.
My scope is in such state atm lol
Where do you keep ur laptop?
Off to the side, let me see if I have a picture to show
Maybe I will use some large cardboard box lol. š¤
Is that an actual desk? Lol
I bought a camping table to hold my astro equip. By rights I really should have the laptop under something but I'm happy enough that I have what I do so I can image w/ the 585
I thought u have a dobson
It's a newt. Basically would be a dobson if it was on an alt-az mount instead of EQ mount.
But that's my 8" "Rio" I call her.
Yeah Dobsonian means Newt on Dobsonian mount
I had an EQ mount and hated it but it was old and rusty etc
My EQ5 works fine when I run my other scope on it.
I could go for EQ platform for 380Ā£ but no money for now.
Yeah itās just that Dobsonian feels much better imo.
I feel like with SCTās you can feel the power
Huh
I wonder how long my mirror will cooldown also
Massive mirror = longer to cooldown afaik
Houshold duties call. Later for now. @steep apex congrats on the Jupiter/Nerd.
Bb
Schmidt Cassegrain Telescopes? SCT, a 6ā SCT has like 1500mm native fl
Thanks 
My Dob has 1800 native, come at me 
And afaik Newtons have better optics.
SCT very portable though
it's definitely that that's the issue, getting a 2tb ssd would be a great investment not just for astro but for other things too
But yeah
I need a hold on one of those SCTās, Iām working with a 4.5ā Newt at the moment
Or get second hand large Dob 
Iām on a serious budget 
Found a c6 SCT for $600 tho
@main flume what do you mainly image? Planetary stuff or deep Sky?
Nothing yet. But will do planets and moon.
Would need good EQ platform for DSO so maybe in few years.
Have you tried doing some DSO with manual tracking?
Yeah its kind of a pain
isn't that a pretty good price
Very, the normal price is $880 or something
Can show any images?
oh wow dang that's very good then
I might have a shot of a vixen SCT too
Is that a good price? Yeah. Do I necessarily recommend it? Eh
I bet you could get a 6 inch newt for a good bit cheaper
What are you trying to do with it? Planetary?
Itās from high point scientific, idk why they resell it 
I'm assuming planetary
Yes
Why not go for an 8 inch dob?
StellaLyra 8ā
Cause more fl
Itās only like 300mm native difference
Barlow tf up
You're gonna have to use a barlow anyways
We need a "barlow tf up" emoji
Yeah this is still what questions me, exchange light collection for fl or light collection over less fl
Get this and barlow it the f up https://www.firstlightoptics.com/beginner-telescopes/stellalyra-8-f6-dobsonian.html
First Light Optics - Suppliers of Astronomy telescopes, binoculars and accessories from Skywatcher, Celestron, Meade, William Optics, Atik, Imaging Source, Starlight Xpress, ADM, Moonlite, Catseye, Hutech and others.
New is only 450Ā£
Honestly a 3x barlow would probably be enough. You could get a good one for >$100
Its like 550usd
Already have the x-cel 3x 
I think the only good thing about SCT is that you can put it on a motorized mount in future.
More money though
Might have a shot at a vixen SCT though weāll see
Scts...
I love them, but as far as price to preformance they just aren't worth it over newts
What u mean, dobson is cheaper
For 500+ you get dobsonian with things like mirror fan, eyepieces etc
I meant the mount with the sct
Posting this as a test
Did you use drizzle ??? If you had you would probably have a much much better result
Either way
The image looks really really good
Or you didn't use the correct focus
The details look fabulous
What camera did you use???
@main flume recommend a laser collimator like a cheap one is fine cuz for a 16" dob gl adjusting the knobs as you look through a cheshire š
I think he uses a 650/130 orion spaceprobe scope with Neptune C-II and an UV/IR cut filter
Oh wow
That's really good
Neptune c-2 is a really good camera
I have a light pollution filter for nebulae, galaxies and stuff....so I would probably get similar results
Yes
Yep
Yes
Because itās a 5ā scope
Dso photos
Of High resolution
His looks really good
And he shot it with a phone
Is it your resolution???
What resolution do you have???
Of your camera
Around 1ā per pixel or less Idk
So it's not 4k neither 2k
2712x1538
That's pretty high...
@proud mulch
This is Lucas'
With a Brazilian Bird Jones 4" Newtonian
And a phone
I forgot about the phone
But does it work on a bird jones telescope?
But does it work on a bird jones telescope?
Oh wow...do you have a light pollution filter
???
It would make a massive difference
You probably live in a very light polluted area just like me ...
I live in B4 i just need an UV/IR cut filter
No
B4???
The light pollution looks really bad
Its not, its actually the uv/ir wavelengths that are making that problem
Hmmmm
What hmmm?
You don't need a light pollution filter for planetary imaging, it's not useful at all
I do ???!!!
Also, light pollution filters in general are not useful anymore, since sodium vapour lamps have been replaced with broadband LEDs meaning their light is no longer easily blocked
You block a lot of useful data when using them for DSO too
That's just chromatic abberation and high surface brightness
Plus some wonky colour processing
I have sodium lamps near my house
So they are pretty useful
I see a massive difference
Interesting. They've all but disappeared near me unfortunately, but that's really good for you
But yeah don't worry about light pollution for planets - they're completely unaffected by it :)
No I swear I can see a difference...at least for visual
Perhaps your setup isn't high enough focal length and things are too bright?
It has a 650mm focal length
Hmm I imagine the planets are quite tiny then
I have the Heritage 130p
Would benefit from a barlow probably
No because I have a 5x barlow
š¤£š¤£
Damn lol
10mm with a 2x barlow and a 3x Barlow stacked
No it's not
ššš
I can clearly see the bands on Jupiter
Very clearly
It's really good
It's quite difficult to focus
But it's really good
I can even push it to 390x I guess
@vestal hatch
Definitely not
That's just too much magnification for a small aperture
You CAN magnify it that much but it doesn't do anything to help, just makes it dimmer and arguably worse
Bird Jones?
Noooooi
It has a helical focuser
It's the Heritage 130p
The Skywatcher
Don't you know the model ??
I don't know if I can focus at 390x mag
That's my only concern
Because the focuser could just come off
That's the helical focuser for you...
At least it has good quality mirrors
People further away from larger cities still likely have sodium lamps, as LEDs haven't quite made everywhere yet.
But yea LP filters are unfortunately being less and less effective.
You can do it while looking through cheshire since my 16ā has large collimation āstickā for primary.
I just have to figure out how to do that at night while holding flashlight directed at the cheshire. 
interesting, how does that look like?
cool lol i wish mine were that easy
Lol dang yeah have fun
I pushed my c6 to 500x and I had no gains lol
Just to see what would happen since Iāve never pushed a scope past theoretical power
couldnāt imagine trying to focus if I had that nexstar mount
I can just barely make out the festoons against the equatorial bands so that was surprising
Also at 500x šš
But all I did was make the image dimmer and fuzzier even in the good seeing
I could theoretically push my new c9.25 to around 500x under excellent seeing šš
most of the time I imagine Itāll look amazing in the 200-300 magnification range
Nick you got a week of clouds now?
Nice
Yeah too eager to experience it even w bad contrast
Iām thinking I wonāt NIR image tbh
Slightly older coatings blocks like half the light past 750nm smh
I see why true planet gods like newts/ dall kirkhams lol . Almost no NIR loss
Thought the starbight coatings haven't changed much?
Ahh yea
Thats optimal
Iād wanna image with a dall kirkham on planets one day tbh
any fully reflective cassegrain without an insane obstruction
If only most massive fracs werent achromats
Take the filter out and it's a 300mm planetary beast
Too bad it's backordered
And 108k
That's more than my first house.
HA Solar is expensive
You call that massive?
Most are slow to combat this
Ca is supposedly hardly there at like f/15+
Thatās why you can find like a 90mm f/18 vintage
Or like even a 60mm f/20
Something ridiculous like that itās the pinnacle of telescope as a long skinny tube
achromats under f/8 are garbage
What in the hell
They had an āeyepieceā on train track.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Great_Paris_Exhibition_Telescope_of_1900
The Great Paris Exhibition Telescope of 1900, with an objective lens of 1.25 m (49 in) in diameter, was the largest refracting telescope ever constructed. It was built as the centerpiece of the Paris Universal Exhibition of 1900. Its construction was instigated in 1892 by FranƧois Deloncle (1856ā1922), a member of the French Chambre des DĆ©putĆ©s....
That's wild
It does...for some reason it looks bigger than your videos too...
Jupiter is HUGE
ššš
I use the 325 magnification for visual
Only
And I can clearly see the moons of Jupiter and make out their colours
In a bortle 9 area
Whatās wrong?
Purple
rings go byebye
maybe fringing
usually its blue but maybe white balance converted it to purple
someone has to check that tho
You're right
Weirdly smooth and yet you can barely see encke at all
Oh shoot
and another thing I've just realised
there's no shadow of Saturn on the rings
almost looks like that fake process from a while ago where they rotated a ring slice radially around the whole thing
How do I know what exposure time to set if manually tracking with Dob? I mean to not get blurry image in the end. Is there a way to calculate it somehow?
prolly with trig š
hm?
its just one of those thing thats better figured out in the field
Yeah Im just afraid it might be hard to tell on raw data in the field.
and I want max sharpness
that depends on seeing and focus
it should be pretty obvious with raw data in a dslr
Seeing is always bad here
zwo 585mc
1800mm , 400mm aperture
honestly exposure time depends on seeing
But movement should affect it too, no?
i think you can go somewhere between 15-10ms its liek the sweet spot
at large zoom
i do mine at 15ms at 2400mm
A comparison of four combinations of shutter speed and gain when imaging Jupiter with an ASI 224MC camera and a Celestron 8" Edge HD telescope. Also, a short animation of Jupiter is thrown in towards the end of the video.
https://www.earthtospacescience.com/post/gain-vs-shutter-speed-when-imaging-jupiter
He mentions it here as well
yeah it depends on the seeing
3/5 i just do 10ms
@vapid depot thats mollys shot shes not collimated. Still very impressive
ooof
5-10ms optimal
Highest I'd ever go is 20-25ms probably
And that's only if you're barlowed up under haze
SMEXY
Fantastic image
Your images are all so impressive
dang man
Is it possible to dial in an ADC using a scope with no tracking at a long focal length?
If you have enough patience probably
The ADC settings will be different when using a camera or an eyepiece right?
If I dial it in with the Barlow and eyepiece, and then swap to the cam, will my settings still be true?
Oof, that's a good question. I thought I had my ADC settings dialed in on my eyepiece but the eyepiece has lenses that aren't there when the camera is set. I'd imagine it would require additional tweaks when switching. @dark cargo ?
Pure guess but if you replace the eyepiece with the camera it should not change anything. Do check with firecapture or sharpcaps ADC tools or just have a look at the pictures if it is true. Camera would probably be more precise through.
I would align my ADC settings again for camera
def enough
how much data are you getting ?
Will be recording 16bit probably though
how long will be the video you are taking? and are you tracked?
im not so good when talking about untracked
you cant really get a 1tb of data that easily
Iāve been using a 256gb ssd. The only issue I have is the need to delete videos after processing
(And cleaning it up before a session of course)
Went for 1tb as itās doublr the speed as well.
I wish i could ttansfer the whole OS easily though not doing it from scratch.
Yeah itās a lot better
Um.
This is after removing over a TB of data.
All planetary
From how many sessions?
To be fair, more than one. But one of them is half a TB
How many minutes and 16bit?
And one session was cut off by running out of space on the 1TB drive that's on the imaging rig
Yeah, 16 bit on that one definitely
You're doing the same maths I am right now
I have a system drive and an internal storage on the imaging, the system is 120GB and I want to get it to 500GB; the storage is 1TB and I want to get it to 2TB
I guess 2tb then.
Yeah, that's one thing I won't hesitate to agree/recommend - more storage is a good thing. š
If i manage to cancel the amazon orderā¦
What drive are you looking at?
Iām thinking about Crucial MX500 2TB 3D NAND
98Ā£ 
https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/crucial-mx500-ssd-review-nand,5390-2.html
When I built mine I used Samsung. I've heard good things about Crucial, too
Always had issues with Samsung.
I got a MP600 core XT myself if you can use m.2 ssds
I'm going to look at my computer specs later. Got to read up on ADC, probably set up my rig, probably re-download firecapture. Let's see how many things I can juggle learning at once.
Personally I think it's an M.2 ... and I also have a SATA drive.
@fading plume how do you think it would work if I just imaged directly to my USB3 SSD instead of to the HDD?
It should technically be faster, but practically unlikely. Test it.
I have 2 - USB3.1 slots. The ASI585 is going into one of them, the SSD would be in the other.
Unlikely ... okay I won't bother for now. Trying too many things as it is already. Going to try using Firecap and try w/ the ADC again. Clear sky but seeing/transparency are a nice soupy 2/5
I have Wd Sn850x m2 nvme which is like 15x faster than the 2.5 sata ssds and similar price. 
But this laptop has no nvme
Mx500 should be fine then
You can buy some 2.5ā drive to nvme m2 adapter but idk about speeds
about half a gig per second in sequantial
if youre using ROI thats plenty
ive seen my asi 462 autoalign + cutout go down to like 9 megs a second even at 100+ fps
idk about lunar
Well I spent more than I wanted but 2TB will be plenty enough I'm sure.
Also added 8gb ram to 16gb, not sure if necessary.

