#Planetary Imaging
1 messages ยท Page 17 of 1
I say 11PM and 5:30 AM are Astro time (but not both at once)
Moons
literally so relatable
autostakkert what happened
Set higher min brightness, like 30
right right lol just thought it was funny, but actually had a question, this was me trying to get saturn's moons and i got 4 of them, but my question was do i put tiny alignement points on the moons?
I never have. Since you're actively trying for them I'll say yes, you do want to set APs on them.
ok got it and small i assume right
Yes
thanks :)
wait am i going crazy or do i have a moon here
At that distance I'd expect noise
Check in stellarium on the time you took the picture for a moon. could be some ransom noise
Which makes me disappointed when the answer to "am I crazy or.." is not "yes".
but i don't think so because i got tethys and dione pretty bright in the same image and they're of simliar mag
LOL that's ok i still have 4 which im happy about
Sounds like it's enceladus then? nice
i mean i got tethys and dione and they look much brighter
it might not be enceladus idk
this is a high gain high exposure image
isn't enc like a mag or two dimmer than the three other ones? mag 12 vs mag 11ish i think? So half the brightness?
dione: 10.58, tethys: 10.37, enceladus: 11.72, all according to stellarium
and wow i never realized only 1 mag above is half the brightness
Huh actually i'm lying, 1 mag difference is 2.5x I think? It's actually some weird decimal taken from the original scale where 1 was x star and 6 was a star 100 times fainter than it?
I woudn't bet a lot on it, but if its in the right place it's probably enceladus?
ok ok nice 
Is there maybe one for vids?
some shots from lastnight
Nice. I just shot Theophilus last night too
Wow, what equipment do you use?
Beautiful!
14indob, qhy5III178c, 3xbarlow, eqplate + handtracking
very nice, what eqplate is it, ive been looking to get one
when is the next time mars will be visible
couple months for it to be visible during sunrise with binoculars, year or so to become opposition
at night
may or later
a year goes by so quick
First decent image of Saturn. Possibly room for improvement on RGB align
Did you push black point/contrast?
I feel like some of the rings got eaten away a little bit
I did push contrast a little. I was trying to make the top hex and the thin line in the norther lighter band (between the darker bands) more apparent.
And what's more fun is that with the UVIR cut filter on everything comes out with a noticeable blue tinge. I had to remove a good amount of blue to get that, and when I contrasted and saturated it came out again. It was hard to re-correct
fringing?
or do u mean hue
Hue
Yeah. Just .. not fond of having to correct it.
I have a bit of an issue. Trying to work with a Jupiter image and these are my histograms, one is from stacking 17 alignment points, and the other is from stacking 600 alignment points. I'm struggling with sharpening/denoising, and when I do RGB Balance the color gets thrown off kilter, RGB align torques it even worse.
My histograms are attached, neither of them are "adjustment friendly" All of my Jupiter subs are experiencing this it looks like. Suggestions?
Hanging up the processing for the night, was hoping to get Jupiter, this is really disappointing.
I think part of the issue is your background is not black, so it's throwing off auto white balance. In autostakkert try normalizing the stack to ~70% and do RGB balance after coarse sharpening. Once it's balanced start running denoise and fine tuning that sharpening
I've had a similar thing happen to me before when I imaged at dawn and the stack had a blue background. After individually balancing each frame the beginning and end frames had the same temperature instead of progressing slightly red
or blue, i can't remember which. you get the idea
@white prawn can you send the raw stack here
Fun
10/10 perfect seeing
is this a good size for jupiter in the frame for a 2xbarlow at 1000mm or do i need to go with a 3x or higher to bring out better detail
It's roughly 137 pixels across, but it also doesn't really look focused? I usually have it so its around 250 pixels across, or 1 pixel= 0.15-0.2 arcseconds, but if you are only shooting in the day I think the 2x is probably better than the 4xish that would get you that sampling. as the planet would be brighter
ye that was just a quick shot to show the size. What size would you say i should get for when its dark?
well it depends on the current apparent diameter of it, but under ideal conditions you could do a 4x barlow probably? something that gets you 1 pixel per 0.15 arcseconds. i use around 0.2"/pixel usually with the 8" dob. so around 200-250 pixels i think.
what is arcsecond sorry
so jupiter is meant to have 200-250 pixels
1/3600 of a degree basically just a unit of measurement to how big things look.
I just go to: https://theskylive.com or stellarium, check the apprent diameter(excluding rings for saturn) of when i take the picture, then divide that in arcseconds by the diameter of the planet in the picture, to get the " per pixel, then try to get it closer to 0.15" or 0.2" per pixel. So right now jupiter is 43.6" across which would make an ideal picture of it around 220-292pixels in diameter with the 8" dob.
TheSkyLive.com provides detailed information, precise position and sky charts for the most import Solar System and Deep Sky objects
It would change near opposition when jupiter is closer to 48 arcseconds in apparent diameter
I just basically figured out a decent barlow + extension setup then never changed it when imaging on good nights of seeing
do you think its ok to stack 2 2x barlows or should i get a higher power barlow like 3x
im afraid ill loose quality with the more glass the light goes through
all praise spacers, divine technology for extending barlows
Could 3D print some if you have access to it
i tried adding an empty barlow tube to extend it but i didnt notice any difference in the magnification
do i place the extender tube between the barlow and the camera
Compare the diameter of the planet in the pictures, should have made some difference unless its a powermate or something
the extension tube in red
the big thing to the left connected to the barlow is the camera just to clarrify my drawing using a mouse 
right image is using the empty barlow to extend a 2x and left is just a 2x
extension tube should be between the lens and the camera, idea is to increase the distance between the barlow lens and the sensor so the light spreads out more fromthe barlow
sorry I drew it around the wrong way ๐
barlow in red i mean
ah yea thats how it should be then
i think there is some difference in the pictures, try using the select tool in paint to check the planets diameter
its seems to be 2 pixels more
best 12ms from one of the vids last night. c6, shorty 2x + asi 120 mc
Shorty Barlow user ๐ฅ
Where stack and processed image
Collimate fella pls
How in F am I supposed to compete with THAT.
Also @uncut glade Sending the 17 alignment point and 600 alignment point stacks. Best 10%
My default setting is to do ~70% normalize.
I wasn't imaging at dawn, this was near midnight. However, I wonder if Jupiter's proximity to the moon impacted how it would appear and thus how the stack would be lit. That said, the less AP stack gives out a LOT more red, then white balances right over to blue.
Move to Michigan for august September
Yes
There may be hope, this is my best shot of Jupiter w/ the DSLR. Once I get over the hump I'm having w/ the ASI585 we'll see what I can do
Which set? 17 AP or 600AP?
And why am I having NO fun with white balance?
600
i didn't try 17
@white prawn
i mean its the same ig
this is the 17
Wait, did you white balance before the sharpen?
it shouldn't matter
usually i do it first tho cuz logically it makes more sense
did you highlight all of the planet?
There's no highlight on RGB Balance, just Align?
@white prawn for the future you should just switch to astrosurface
registax 6 is so outdated its crazy
that's bc u don't use deconvolution in astrosurface
Let me see
So you're saying my processing is convoluted.๐
Okay w/ AstroSurface I open up W-Balance and poof it's done. Me: "Wut" ๐ฎ
Okay, white balance is great but now the sharpening portion really really stinks compared to Registax
Astrosurface > registax just harder to use
Harder to use defeats better. Just makes an extra step for me sometimes
Bumped out of collimation ๐
Still some decent polar details considering collimation that out of whack, nice work playing around that
I thought that was the place to go to sharpen. No I didn't use wavelets/deconvolute first. Let me go back into that, I'm getting absolutely NOWHERE w/ Registax on this image, and usually that software is THE Jupiter processing software
i think most ppl use astrosurface now
at least ive seen tom iirc and j3rry use it
wavelets and then deconvolute first tho
honestly i just sharpen in photoshop most of the time
Lucky you. First, to afford PhotoShop; second to have the skills to sharpen in that one.
Dec Wiener or Dec RLucy?
nah my public school bought photoshop
wiener
Okay. Now what?
airy psf size is how strong it is
make sure u have noise prefilter on so u dont get noise
noise factor u can slide up and down
down is more sharp and up is less
More frames? I have a stack w/ 25%
Okay I'm puzzled. When I play the video that these frames came from it reports 5:25 time. However the log file reports it recorded just the amount I requested - 3 min. What's up? When I was processing I split the movie files in half so instead of one folder w/ 9700 frames I had 2 folders with about 4500 frames. How does 3 min of recording net a 5 min video?
do you guys have a good tutorial for planetary animations?
Did the framerate of the video change to ~30fps in pipp?
I just take a bunch of normal videos for a while, then sort them into 2-3 minute segments, process them normally then put all the sharpned stacks into pipp to turn it into a gif. I think it's possible to automate that process with astrosurface through, haven't used it personally.
The media player (VLC or Windows player) played a 5 minute video. Let me get one of them in PIPP
Basically if it's 3 min and the media player is reading wonky (which may be the case because it's a RAW video file) then I'll have to re-do part of my processing and put separate files back together.
Try rightclicking it then seeing the framerate in properties?
Maybe its undefined so both players just assume 30fps?
Well what do you know.
The good news is - I wasn't losing my mind, they were 3 min vids.
On the other hand I took 33 of them and need to run them through PIPP again
๐คฆโโ๏ธ
ah as I assumed, pipp turned them into 30fps
Nope, PIPP didn't do that, that's just how Windows is reading it. Those are pre-PIPP info files. I record and then PIPP straight to TIFF.
A SER file looks like this. As soon as you said the player might be presuming/treating as 30fps everything made sense. The log file reported 54fps and noted the recording was 3 min as instructed. If the media players look at it and think 30fps it'll run longer
This is my disciple
Dude this is like Damian Peache's photo of Jupiter...it's amazing!!! You can even see the shadow of Europa
How do you get Ganymede surface detail with a 5โ I wanna catch that
damn i didnt realize how many ppl voted ๐
Dude it's amazing
Your Saturn is also really really cool
But I think Jupiter is better
What Telescope do you use?
Screw it I saw your profile description
Man!
What camera do you use?
This is outrageous!
Screw it I found this one too
๐
Did I get the "outer devision" (idk the name) or not? It's definitely not an artifact.
Cassini definitely. Encke (the small outer one) ehh not sure
dont zoom into my images 
i dont think it would resolve but idk
i mean i got cassini
well it's 10% of like 80k frames. So the best of the best frames. Not a single bad one... hard to tell
u could calculate how many pixels would be on the image if it resolved
see if it matches up
Nice pixels!!! Naaaa I'm joking...it's a really good picture ๐
Did you shoot it with a smartphone?
Aaaaaaa...don't you have a high magnification Barlow???
I have a 3x one...3x barlow is the sweetspot
Unless your Telescope can handle bigger magnification
I use an empty 2x barlow without its lens (for extra magnification) between a 3x barlow and my eyepiece
So I basically have a somewhat 4x barlow lens
But not exactly
Called encke. And no itโs definitely an artifact
ok ok
Likely a result of sharpening
Encke in reality is like 1/3 the width of Cassini
Iโve never seen it done by a scope smaller than 10โ
I may have gotten it too
Very very faint
You did not get Encke
no you did not
Nope.
๐
Duifโs image. Look how small encke is in reality, barely here even though Cassini is so well resolved
C ring yeah itโs there
lol i always thought it was a deconvolution artifact ๐
pretty sure i removed it one time
Pretty sure the little gap in between C and B rings is an artifact
But C ring itself is there yeah
i think its just too faint
Yeah got eaten away a little bit
the cassini division should be smaller in reality but the gradient is too faint for it to pick up
prolly cuz of contrast too lol
Who was the person who get surface detail on Ganymede with a 5โ
@summer field
I remain highly skeptical of the claim, and that is where I will rest my statement.
What are you talking about
#older_system_pics message
Thanks
I can send some raw data if you want (I only kept the stacks, I deleted the ser files)
I'm interested in the how. That seems a bit beyond the capability of a 5" since w/ planetary to capture detail you need aperture. "Aperture is king" there. However, I'm not the one who imaged and I'm still learning so if there is an opportunity for me to learn something then I accept it. For all I know it was the cam used being so far above and beyond what I'm familiar with.
I trust the raw data and end result ... where I'm coming from I haven't gotten Jupiter moon detail on my 8" even with an astro cam. So if that's something that can be done on a 5" scope w/ the right equip and skills, I'm eager to know things. ๐
nah a 5โ def capable of that
aperture is king but poor conditions and poor processing can equate to the result of a 2โ telescope
I'll give some details about the process, after i'm done with M13 ๐
Or less.
Ser files in thread
the link is probably dead by now
@summer field Were you tracked for the Jupiter and Ganymede 5โ image?
Yes
Possibly part of the equation then?
not really, the effect on image quality is negligible (at least in my experience) but it's much less painful
for the how : I'm imaging at f/22 with a qhy462c camera, a bit oversampled, but it just works. I always check collimation (and that everything is OK optically) and seeing on a nearby star before starting, and take a PSF for later use. Then just image jupiter for some time, for this one, I kept 13min (1 min ser files). Here is what I do for processing :
- stack the ser files in AS!3
- batch wiener deconvolution with Astrosurface using the PSF taken earlier
- derotation using Winjupos
- wavelet sharpening and white balance in Astrosurface
- final touch in gimp (saturation, edge rind artefact removal, maybe a bit of sharpening or gaussian blur)
On this one, I processed the moons and the planet separately, to avoid edge rind artefact
What I'm reading here is that I need more practice in a few areas. My images are good, but have potential to be better I think. Just to compare, I have an ASI585 for a camera, and 203/1000mm Newt; so native f/4.9. I could bring it to f/14.77 or f/24.6 depending on the Barlow lens that I use. I've been doing a spot check on collimation as well before I start. I don't know what a PSF is though.
I tried deconvoluting for the first time yesterday and have no clue whatsoever of what I'm doing or what things need to look like. I work with 3 minute movies so I don't derotate since to my knowledge it shouldn't be necessary at that time length. Correct me if I'm wrong. I have tried to put rotation back by creating a gif with some images.
I've been using Registax to do sharpening and RGB Balance/Align. That said I've tried Astrosurface. It seems like a powerful program and I might have to make more effort to become familiar with it, I might be able to get better results with it after I learn a few things.
Final touches are also in Gimp ... same things. I find that lunar edge rind is easier to take care of than other edge rind. Usually I focus on saturation, contrast, and color level management ... not necessarily in that order.
To get that out of a 5" is really impressive. I'm still working to get something like that out of my 8" and ultimately I would like to be better than Tom/Damien.
Psf is basically a representation of a point source object like a star, after passing through the atmosphere
We do our best to guess the psf
But mathematically knowing how a star should look w no atmosphere is a start
So the goal of PSF is to tell the program what to remove from the image so that it better represents the object
Pretty much thatโs how I get it
That jsut gave me an idea
What If you had another telescope recording at the same time, on a v nearby star to record the psf
$600 10โ very sketchy
Buy it
Idk man, itโs at a low price for a reason
Its worth it
yes bring it to higher focal length, f/14.5 is the minimum according to the 5x rule to have a correct sampling.
You can do 3min ser files, AS!3 can deal with small amount of rotation so it will be fine.
Astrosurface adds a lot of features, it's worth trying, with that said, for wavelets alone it shouldn't make that much of a difference compared to registax once you are used to it.
Deconvolution is the process of inverting a filter, here the telescope acts as a filter, that will blur the image according to its PSF. Diffraction, optical defects and turbulence will affect the size and shape of the PSF and blur the image in a specific way. If you know the PSF, you can use deconvolution to invert that blur and recover a good image. You can try to guess the PSF, there's a tool in the last version of Astrosurface that lets you calculate the theoretical PSF of a given telescope, but taking a PSF on an actual star will give a much better result, as you are taking the real psf of your scope.
Yall really dont get the joke
I'm not sure that this will give you anything better, the telescopes are not exactly the same and not affected by the same optical defects, but even if they were perfect, turbulence is not isotropic so there is no reasons for it to affect in the same way the planet and the star a few arcmin or degrees away, as the isoplanatic angle is only maybe a few tens of arcseconds, even jupiter moons are not affected by the same turbulence
Okay, and all my recording is done at least w/ the 3x Barlow so f/14.77.
For what I'm up to right now, I don't need to change recording practices. Maybe I'll try to do a rotation and get winjupos involved at some point but right now I'm still getting used to the new camera.
I suppose there's a reason I haven't removed AstroSurface from my system. ๐ So the OTA is introducing the issue, not the atmosphere? In any event, I have a very basic enough understanding. PSF is a thing and for best imaging it needs to be addressed.
@summer field thank you
Uh oh. This is alot more complicated than I expected, especially in the post processing areas.
optical defects AND atmosphere will degrade your images, for the first one you can compensate in some way using deconvolution. For the atmosphere/turbulence, beside having low enough exposure time and sorting the best frames in AS!3 or just moving to a better place, there's not much thing you can do (at least to my knowledge, and I still have a lot to learn ๐ )
Latest Saturn from the 14"
I need a big aperture telescope
Join the club๐
Single frame using my Samsung S10+ and Orion XT8 w/ 10mm plossl.
rad
wait, which comp did you win?
Haven't won any Astrobiscuit comps this season.
Milky way core comp isn't looking too good
cool, a very late congrats then
Lol gracias
Striving for HOF as soon as I lay my hands on a dam cooled astro cam.
But that's a long shot with all these bangers going around.
well, never say never! you have got the skills in my opinion. just need some sharpening your skils and you got a good chance.
Either that or a tracking mount
I need to find a 10โ for $800 thatโs not crap
hola! hablas espanol????
No 
oh ๐ฅฒ
da li govoriลก srpski?
Un poqito
muy bien! cuantos anos tienes?
Tiengo dieciseis anos, tu?
sesenta y nueve ๐ค
I need to grab a 3x barlow
2x Barlow works well enough
Skywatcher 8โ dobsonian 150/1200 for $650 or
Skywatcher 10โ dobsonian 200/1200 for 900,
Whatโs the difference if their the same fl? But different thingy idk what itโs called
aperture
Yes and that
Also collects more light since bigger aperture might just get an 8โ dob or a tracking mount
If u wanna do deepsky more, get a tracking thing
(Onstep is a thing for broke boys btw)
its not
onstep is literally better than synscan you have no idea what you're talking about
i will fight you
Excelente
No violence will be tolerated
Possible disturbance in Jupiters northern band?
What was the aperture of the scope you used? This is pretty cool 
8"
I donโt know what youโre looking at but those apertures are wrong
8โ is 200p and 10โ is 250p
I only realized that now dang
How did I get the 150 
Anyways is there any slow mo controls on the skywatcher dobs
nope, not on the classic ones at least. 200p I have isn't extremely smooth in either axis, could only easily move it maybe 3 arcminutes not any less. so it is a bit of a problem
I can deal with crap slow mo controls
Any spec differences with the flex tube 8โ skywatcher and the traditional 8โ skywatcher other than the portability?
I think even the weight is similar? The flex tube might be a bit newer, older classic ones don't have the handle in the front at the very least.
Ok thanks for all of the info 
I used an XT8 for a little bit for planetary work, the bearings were a little stiff, probably combination of undersized and in storage for too long. Provided decent views all around, would recommend tbh
The way I would steer is by actually bending the physical tube with individual finger amounts of pressure, instead of moving the bearings.
Basically, lubricate the dob, maybe replace the bearings with larger ones, any youโll do just fine
Eckne?
kms
this is the last time my scope gets mistaken for a 8"
Spends $3k on a new scope:
gets called """""""8" or smtn"""""""
๐คก
oh cool
did you get a lot of upgrades on the 8"?
shouldn't cost that much
i got a 14
cheers
i might use the 15" at the observatory with my camera
if they open anytime soon
Mas personas que hablan espaรฑol, que bueno
Quick PSA. My SVbony UVIR cut that came with my scope is likely causing really bad internal reflections. Do not buy.
Need to do more testing but im 90% sure itโs the filter and where itโs located in my imaging train.
Keep us updated on the svbony uvir cut
@fading plume @safe compass So far I've purchased 4 Svbony products and 3 of them have been disappointments so ... ๐คทโโ๏ธ
ah i see. what'd you buy?
SV105 camera - crashed SharpCap, the only app it would work on. 90 degree diagonal - didn't focus. 45 degree diagonal - introduces tilt and split stars. Eyepiece set - Okay that seems fine so far.
Ah.
What's the difference between sharpcap and firecapture
Other than SharpCap supports SV products and FireCapture doesn't? Both of them are for imaging w/ an astro cam, and since I use SharpCap I'm not famililar w/ FC so I am not aware of the differences.
Ah, I wanted to know the comparison between them but oh well, still I thank you for your input
How do you check if you're fully focused using FireCapture?
I'm interested in this
Handtracked 8s exposure? I want to know how to do it
Its just luck and slow control sticks, you need to have an eq mount and spin the stick to move the telescope, when moving the telescope match the earths rotation, and when matched just click to photograph it and its done, but you need to be steady, lucky and need to be patient beacuse its hard
I'm really impressed, thx
Iโm also pretty sure phones donโt do actual 8 sec long exposures but more like a bunch of very short exposures and stack them
I can do handheld 10s exposures with my iphone without any trailing whatsoever
Doing that at 900mm, need to be a robot to hold your scope that steady for 8 seconds
she said it was 5 
Maybe a touch on the top left? Pretty close to spot on though
@steep apex. I shot the same disk this morning
Highlights are kind of blown. That what happens when you process with a dim screen lol
I am the king of sattelites
For my scope range I am
What scope

I can try to fix the shot too lol
Wasnt enough good frames to derotate
Which one
Ken hurry up and do Tiangong and Hubble
What do you guys think?
I will pay to see twastro image ceres
#older_system_pics message
It was even on my birthday ๐ฅ
More proof that tom is hacking
more than one pixel is crazy
It is resampled 400%, as an important detail.
Obviously still insane
But that is not "true" resolution
I can't say anything beyond that, because I can't beat it lmao
Pro mode exists on phones, mine can go up to 30sec exposures, and at 900mm i needed to stop breating, and be like a stone, very calm, not breathing and very slowly spinning the wheel on the mount. It took me a few tries tho
Honestly i expected more
The clouds took over so no jupiter but i expected better results
collimate bro
ah weird, idk what is causing that weird thing on the left side
must be slight miscolli
yep
still my sharpest jupiter
By chance are you imaging from the ISS
Anyone has a soft to recommend to only align planetary frames with abrupt changes in orientation?
the graph level doesnt mean anything yk
i thought it was so ou can flex people our graphs 
data
it still does. but its not an absolute measure of quality , the quality value is only against the reference
best reference i should add. thats how i get it anyways
Jupiters storm next the the GRS (left) has increased by a lot
My first Saturn!!
Used eos digital record for capturing with 10x digital zoom
It's tiny but I'd like to give Jupiter and moon crators a go
oh wow it has
grs 2
Where
Gibbs phenomenon
That is not a collimation issue thatโs a phenomenon that causes rind across planets and stars
holy shit thank you for giving the true name
i always heard it as the "onion ring effect" by ppl on instagram
but yeah describing the same thing
Yeah
I learned that from I think Tom
A while back ago and it made me realize I wasnโt bad at editing it was just something that happened
i didnt have it on jupiter during opposition
Was the southern band on Jupiter always bigger than the northern when it first came back?
Io?
My first test run last night on my new Zwoasi camera.
Allowed to use it a week early as the weather will probably be terrible on my birthday. Shot with a Skywatcher 150PL.
do you guys think this looks out of focus, or is it just seeing thatโs limiting me?
What are your specs? It looks good, which means your seeing is limiting you.
skywatcher heritage 150p, uranus c, gso 2.5x barlow extended
i think it may have been the seeing yeah
iโve never gotten above average seeing according to astrospheric 
oof, yeah definitely the seeing needs to be better.
Just going to say to keep imaging. If this is what you get w/ below average seeing imagine what you can get w/ good seeing. These two were taken w/ a DSLR on an 8" in really good seeing.
dang that's amazing, and thank you i was worried that i was messing up with processing, good to know it's something out of my control!
Yee I think so
this is some of the raw data from those pictures
is it really that bad seeing?
it gets a little worse through the whole raw video lol
about average Iโd say but I donโt see alot of details so maybe small aperture
6 inch
Average a bit above average
150 mm
Hmm Barlows?
I think it's not that great, but not really bad. Heres an example of fairly good seeing.(lossy compression with pipp then handbrake to encode it properly).
Itโs def seeing ok these were taken with different conditions
i have a 2.5x itโs the gso one so itโs in reality a 2.2x but iโve extended it a little bit
ahh ok got it
yea itโs a dob
heritage 150p
so 750mm focal length
Also, when getting a reducer, why does it cause coma?
dang thatโs 8/10?? 10/10 must be pristine
I think you could extend the barlow for some more resolution when you have good seeing. what diameter is jupiter in pixels?
Apparently ish lol. V decent that night overall
OH it was also windy when i was imaging and i remember being annoyed that it was shaky
well you did give me the extensions, but the thing is when i extend it i canโt reach focus, the only way i can is to collapse my truss tube slightly, and with 3 extensions itโs so much that the planet looks very dim, so i just used 2 for my last images
excuse me where did the atmosphere go
and im not sure about the diameter
try getting one frame from the video then using the selection tool in paint or anything else
I think you can get it so each pixel is ~0.26 or less arcseconds across pretty easily. with your aperture. Just divide apparent diameter of planet in arcseconds by pixels to get the arcseconds per pixel
i might be able to but i think me collapsing the truss tube messes with brightness
thatโs the issue im having, i do have three 25mm extensions they just dim out the planet a lot
9/1/2023 at 22:47 EST.
Orion SkyView Pro: 8"/1000mm
Astromania 3x Barlow
ASI585
Sharpened in Registax, cropped in Gimp, color adjustments in Registax, touch-ups in Gimp.
jupiter and its four major moons (big achievment for me yay)
Did my first animation last night, pretty decent seeing.
Looks nice
Final image
Shouldnt Pipp have debayered this?
odd, in auto stakkert some of the frames are fine
some are like this
accidently took some videos with, and some without debayering?
thats a single capture
huh that's weird, no way the setting would change during the capture?
was there an option in sharpcap to debayer that i had to use?
was my first time using it soo didnt know i needed to
Not sure honestly, I think usually they don't debayer to save resources.
I thought pipp could handle debayering
It can/does. You have to check the box to tell it to do it
yeah it is
Well if it was on then off during capture, I doubt it would work then. Try having a look through the raw video to see if anything changed.
nothing changed during the raw video
went through it
@coarse aspen No checkmark on left?
yeah theres 1 there just not on the right
oh wait nevermind
i enabled "debayer mono frames" and it seems to work now
If you have debayer selecteed it should give you the option to select debayer? Unless you have protect bayer pattern checked
yep there we go
Or you could do that too
thanks
the left one would only work if something tells pipp what bayerpattern it should use, I think the video should usually have metadata for that.
never used an astro cam for planetary so this is all new
got it now
wasnt sure what gain and exposure to use but i think i got it
aaayyy
not bad for only being 650mm, a fully dewed secondary, (probably) out of focus a bit
and a 5" newt
im happy with it
tiny pixel size?
ah, definetly try barlowing it then, should be able to get it to around.... 0.23"-0.31" arcseconds per pixel resolution pretty sure.
definitely i gotta pick up a barlow
wait a minute i just forgot, i shot that with a coma corrector too
totally un necessary for planetary but i did it
since i was imaging dso at the time
I feel lke theres potential for a lot better. just need a barlow
hey im considering purchasing a uranus c for planetary, anything i should know about
What aperture telescope do you have?
8 inch
i already have a 224 that ive used for planetary so i know the basics but ive been looking for an upgrade
also my 224 is being used for guiding most clear nights now
I have the 585mc (practically the same as the uranus c) and jupiter and saturn is a bit dim on my 8" dob. I tend tto use 10ms with 380 gain for jupiter and 450 for saturn. so a bit on the high side in terms of gain but i wouldn'tt go any higher utherwise it gets too noisey and pixelated.
interesting ok
It has a large full well and sensor so you need to capture more light to get the same amount on the histogram than the 224
but not a problem
i got some great images with the ubove setup
is your setup guiding?
i have two, im using the 224 to guide the dso setup but my 8" is a manual dob
ah so you have the same setup as me then, do you use a 3x barlow?
not yet, i only have a cheapish 2x
well i did have a 3x but it was the one that came with the powerseeker and it was so bad that it wasnt worth using, i popped the lens out to use it for a focal extender lol
i'd definitely recommend a 3x barlow with an ADC
i will at some point, the only reason i havent got one is that with the 224 the sensor is so small that its almost impossible to hand track with a 3x
good thing is that the uranus c has high resolution and wider fov
Yeah i found that with my old 120mc, the uranus c with a 3x barlow is great for manual tracking. I use sharpcap which allows me to have a small ROI but i can pan it across the sensor. Im able to capture about 7-8K frames in a minute
Jupiter and saturn are a great size in combination with a 3x barlow
does sharpcap let you see what part of the sensor its cropped to so you can still track?
Yes!
Thats the great part
These are the images ive made with your setup but with a 3x barlow and ADC
so its still a really capable setup
you will not be making a mistake with your purchase
im going to try to pick up some odd jobs to afford it because i dont want to be bored all planetary season
dang very nice
i might end up upgrading to a bigger dob sometime, but idk if i have space for it
i hope i get it before the sale ends! (joking because it is on sale like 90% of the time for some reason)
Yeah a 16" goto would be a cheap upgrade i think
The SW Dobs are the cheapest way into aperture. Just the way it is
Maybe not for manual, but GoTo for sure
Not sure if 3x Barlow is best. Might want 2x + adc for extension
Although I kinda do regret not getting a 3x sooner. I need one for my 14โ
โCheapโ
I at least want an 8โ for planetary 
Now get the rings
Requirements for that: TWโs hacks
Damian peach moment
Guys wish me luck for 59ยฐ ISS pass
โฒ๏ธ
14in dob eqplate+handtracking
Qhy5iii178c+3x barlow
4 mins derotated
6" sct and Uranus-C
That ain't Ina
I don't think so, that looks more like a coma
this is at only 1200mm so its pretty cool that i somehow got it
coma? lol
Yes, where you aren't focusing all three main colors into one spot.
My bad, chromatic abberations.
@sharp ridge derotation from the night u hopped in voice w me
Cool
I think your outline might be slightly too large, I had those artefacts on the right too, until I found out I was using a too large outline
Change ld I think
LD was fine for me
I shrunk down my outline but kept same LD value, artefacts were gone
Yep.
How much frames do you guys usually get on the moons surface?
500-2000
@vapid depot bangers
Seeing so bad it actually makes me mad
Bars
It got way better after a lil, must've been some low clouds or something
Scope cooling off?
I had my scope out there for at least 2 hours prior to shooting
I'm sure it was mostly due to transparency
New derotation stack no more artifacts
Canโt wait to get more insane fps without data degradation
hey @fading plume you use an 8" and a 585, can you show some of your pics so i have an idea of what a reasonable result is like with that setup
thats probably a very common setup but youre just the first one i thought of who uses it
I know it's not @fading plume but I think this isn't unreasonable and maybe decent. #older_system_pics message
Yeah I think thatโs a reasonable example
Iโve been looking into buying one when I sell my eqm35
this is with a 6 inch dob and a 585 so expect better than this
I'm debating the merits of getting a more planetary-dedicated camera
How so
Well, I got the 585 to have something capable of DSO and planetary. Just wondering how much of an edge I could get if I got something that was more purpose-built for planetary.
I'm not happy w/ that most recent (and arguably comparatively best of my) Saturn image. Then again I'm trying to get from a camera built to be well capable of both planetary and DSO, set on an 8" scope, something that others have achieved with oooh I don't know ... 14" or more
why does every DSLR planetary shot look like it has really good resolution but 0/5 seeing?
My seeing can support bigger scope tbh
Iโd for sure have a c11 if I wasnโt a dso fanatic
What currency lol
Jesus Christ
Thatโs bad
idk
shouldnt be that much
150 usd
and used its much cheaper. im selling it 90 usd used
41 inch telescope wtf
Nah. I have had the worst seeing since I got it. So my results are about as good as a 4-6โ newt.
Thatโs everything Iโve done
Still looks good to me, do you know someone better to ask
@cursive inlet
ISS shot is rookie frfr 
ok
๐
yo yo yo
I have a little bit of a situation. Imaged Jupiter a little while ago. Seeing was possibly pretty good. Made multiple stacks. For giggles and grins I thought, I'll go big as I can and as small as I can. So for every set of data there's a stack that uses 15-16 AP and another one that uses 600+ AP.
Here's the catch. On every stack that uses 15-16 AP, there's a red background hue. On every stack that uses the 600+ AP, there's a blue background hue. In either case, I haven't been able to get through the buggered-up impact of the background hue to move along with processing the image.
Thoughts anyone?
Iโd recommend you to take a look @ruby tartan โs photos with his 8โ dob. He used a qhy 462 which is only $200. I kinda doubt your rig is whatโs preventing you from achieving better images
I'm leaning on the strong possibility that the user still has a few things to learn. How much improvement could I get out of the camera? More detail, better colour?
All I have is a 120mcs and Iโve only taken 3 pictures with itโฆ itโs probably better to wait for one of the mega nerds to help you๐
But I do know that your camera and aperture are able to take breathtaking images
So basically I suck at processing ๐ข
All I do is stack and sharpen 
Same. I fought with my latest Saturn shot to get it to the point that it's at.
#older_system_pics message
Pretty good overall. Maybe a bit over sharpened? Some funky colors too
But thatโs some nice detail there
Yeah that's the trick. To get the detail I have to sharpen, sometimes to a point that is more than ideal. Less sharpen, lose detail. more sharpen, keep detail, and also colors get a little "eh."
That tradeoff is starting to make me a bit frustrated.
Okay, is this moving in the right direction?
Looks a bit magenta and greeny to me
Yeah, I switched to AstroSurface. I think though no matter which program it's going to be a battle when I start with a background hue
Increase the counter weight on the red by like two or three clicks and the blue by like two
That might help a lil
It might make it a bit red though
auto balance took you to that?
Yup
Blue background hue I'm dealing with
send file? i can give it a shot might be fun
Heh, enjoy
@white prawn
idrk what is making it hard for u to color balance
it was pretty easy for me
just set background to black point then color balance
How do you set background to black point without affecting the rest of the image?
Also, did you colour balance before sharpening? I've always done sharpening then balance
@topaz elk ?
autobalance goes crazy
That's what I'm saying. But you seem to do the balance before sharpening, I was told the best is to sharpen then balance. Which is it?
i always balance then sharpen personally
hmm i don't get why it's giving me fully green that's so odd
I think it's trying to comp for the blue background hue.
hmm, do you have adobe lightroom?
Nope. Registax, Astrosurface, and Gimp.
ah ok well as far as i know adobe lightroom is the only place to set black point? idk though
wow this data is really throwing me off it's way beyond my skill level
but this has insane potential what the crap that looks insanely good the detail is like the stuff tom sent today so nicely done capturing 
sorry i was busy
i think its more logical to color balance then sharpen
when you color balance you can see more details better
you have to highlight the background and click set black
I don't see a way to do that unless I take it to gimp to take care of bg, then take it back to Regi/AS to balance/sharpen
I tried that and it didn't seem to work for me.
you want me to show you it in a call? @white prawn
OH!!!
Found it!
"Select an area" means "pick the area to be made the color"
So when I selected part of the background, the entire background went to the right color
NOW I can properly white balance
@topaz elk Please tell me I'm not overcooking it.
its pretty overcooked from my artistic viewpoint
keep spamming it
its not effective one time idk why
Yeah, I adjusted the brightness a bit
Lesson learned ...
nice
And this time I remembered to RGB align.
Just shot my first planetary data in ages ๐
Weโll see if I remember how to cook it right
Piss poor seeing but I gotta do something
I've made similar decisions for similar reason.
Ugh 80 gb of data
And my laptop canโt handle an sd car for some reason so it will be at 80mb per second
Sorry 20 not 80
I have an external SSD w/ USB3.
So do I but my laptop canโt use it properly idk why
Made this data transfer not so painful
Ok Iโm just going to transfer the most promising files instead of all of them
why rgb align?
what r yall capturing ๐
No ADC
Jupiter and Saturn
it doesn't matter tho
autostakkert and astrosurface both rgb aligns alr
no ROI?
I know, and I have the check box in AutoStakkert for RGB align checked, and I've seen some significant improvement when giving it the nudge to RGB align again.
Hm.
autostakkert has some weird debayer when it comes to images
oh i've heard that aligning and sharpening in autostakkert isn't the best
Hmmmm.
that's what i was told when i first started this, i did notice a difference especially with sharpening quality
yea i use pipp for ser to avi and debayering, then as3 for stacking, then registax for sharpening
Def ROI. To be fair those are all the folders even w/ extracted images from ... 33 videos. All were 800x600 roughly half were 7.4 GB AVI files and the other half were 14.9 GB SER files.
ser to avi?
you shouldn't use avi
use ser
oh idk
Nope. Recorded directly to SER. Was playing w/ settings, noticed that 8-bit recorded to AVI and then 16-bit recorded to SER
steve_C2 you in 16bit? @white prawn
oh wait actually? 
ser has more precision im pretty sure
it has better quality


literally all my images have been from avi
Here's from one of the SER files
makes sense
And apparently I went to 1024x768 ROI. Jupiter is ... HUGE.
chromatic abberation 
um after stacking with ser files from pipp, my wavelets get weird
whats it look like
this is what's changing in the 2nd wavelet layer 
first looks ok
but if i touch the others it gets messed up
here's raw stack?
i don't know what i did-
Oversharpened
First man to discover the next 200 Jovian moons, congratulations
#older_system_pics message
yes but this has never happened to me before, it's just the first wavelet all the way up i usually push it so much farther than this
with avi files it's fine
asjfaslf i swear im so unlucky with this stuff
this is a stack from an avi with the exact same wavelets
yikes not the most impressive start eh?
i mean tbf seeing was like 2/5 but still should be able to get better
this looks like a phone image
I did bruh
collimate better
It was good
I am using a cheap ass Amazon Barlow
I didnโt come in here for you to just bully my collimation
You did tell me to collimate it
collimate the barlow
What
you heard me
Iโm not that dumb
lmao i said something so ridiculously stupid you had no words
The lens is glued in place there will be no collimation
theres actually little alen keys
No thereโs not
I am still not that stupid
Also that image was taken at like 20 degrees
thats no excuse
I will take another early in the morning near zenith
Yes it is
okay it is
Itโs a great excuse
it really is
I could show the seeing one minute
You will see how bad what I am working with is
Like idk what it is but I am 100% sure itโs not purely a skill issue
Some of it is definitely a skill issue, I have a lot to learn but not that much
Here it is, idk if this is seeing or transparency or what but there is nothing there
and thatโs the best 10%!!!!
this shopping cart looking real tempting
@coarse aspen look at this shit
dude im being serious collimation
like not even bullying
partially the barlows fault too
its not even focusing
chromatic aberration so bad
its not perfect but its relatively close
i am just going to purchase my problems away
Whatโs wrong?
The data is dogshit
How so
There is zero detail
@coarse aspen I shot without the Barlow too because I knew it was less than perfect, Iโll look at that in the morning
Atmosphere looks calm, if you canโt focus perfectly then the transparency is crap
Transparency looks fine, Iโm shooting dso data too tonight and thereโs no problems with that
Iโm pretty sure Iโve narrowed it down to the Barlow and possibly imperfect collimation
The camera also isnโt doing me any favors tbf, Iโve never gotten good color out of it
And big pixels
But itโs a cheap camera so I canโt complain too much
Weird
This is right. AS!3 only does half the work. Iโve always needed a touch of RGB align in Astrosurface after derotation. Itโs not much, but makes a difference
Would you suggest stacking w/ Astrosurface, and ... would you recommend using that program straight up?
Not for stacking. AS!3 is the best for this. I use Astrosurface for Lunar as it has deconvolution in the wavelets tab. It's also quite good for colour calibration. RS6 is totally fine for sharpening too though, it's the same maths.
I usually use Firecapture, AS!3, Astrosurface, WinJUPOS, Photoshop
Me it's SharpCap, AS!3, RS6, Gimp. Though the last couple of Jupiter shots were huge challenges and Astrosurface was the more capable software to help out. There was a bad background hue that was causing huge problems when doing colour balance.
In any event, what I'm reading is that the software I use is fine; if my work comes out like junk it's b/c I suck at this, not b/c of software.
That might be with camera capture settings, the background hue. Try record with no offset or colour balance change if possible. I do all this in post processing
All I did was the same thing for Jupiter and Saturn on the same night. Record at 18ms, adjust brightness and gain so that I could get a good image. No background hue w/ Saturn, Jupiter was yikes
Having said that ... I think what I was able to get from processing the image with the substantial hue isn't bad really.
It's in Solar system pics
Yeah it's absolutely correctable but it's an added processing step that could potentially be avoided.
But it is odd to use the same settings and have no issue with Saturn.
Unless I did have the issue w/ Saturn and it wasn't readily apparent b/c of Saturn's colours vs. Jupiter's.
Hmmm
Ayo you use the shortly 2x?
Mine seems to f up my image with all kinds of CA and generally degraded image quality.
It's not terrible but with an 8" in dob I'm resolving planetary detail no better than images I've seen taken with smaller scopes.
I am looking to photo jupiter with 750d prime on 150p
I am trying the live view method
What are best settings for that
try either iso 800 or 1600, change shutter speed either using the histogram so the peak is around the center, or just find a speed at which it;s not fully white but not really faded.
Is that like it's says online like 1/30 to 1/60
it depends on a lot of things so you just have to figure it out yourself most likely. it's pretty easy to do through, just find out when it starts to get too bright, and where it's too dim then pick something in between.
I use around 1/300 on jupiter, and 1/60 on saturn with my 8" dob and 600d, i think mars is even 1/400ish if not less
Any particular reason?
Best image of Saturn yet
if you are talking about the last part, it's just to make sure you don't lose detail by over or under exposing the image.
for the first part how much light you get depends on the aperture of the scope, focal length you are at, quantum efficiency of the sensor, sensor pixel size, brightness per area of the object, as well as central obstruction of the scope and the reflectivity of the coatings. Technically you could figure all that out with some formula but it would be too much effort to do when you have the histogram or just can eyeball it.
K
ok
i got my vids
i have like 15 to choose from
varied settings
how to choose the best ones?
each like 300 frames (live view)
If you changed the video capture resolution, see which one produces the same size planet as a raw picture. That isn't too many frames tbh, but just dump a frame in gimp or registax and have a look at the histogram, the peak should be ideally on the right side somewhere closer to the middle than not.
um
basically
only difference is iso cus ome reason the planet increase birghtness later on?
for iso just keep it at 1600, decent balance of readnoise and dynamic range you get.
iso would make it brighter as it just multiplies the values the sensor gets.
so
do i just try everything out
only mix the ones within a minute of each other?
not sure how well stacking different isos would work. try to stack the same iso ones you have within 2-3 minutes
๐
heyy
i made my firsst presentable image
i just need some small advice on trying not to oversharpen, get the best out of the little etc
If you start to see a white border on the planet it's oversharpened. Probably won't be able to sharpen too much as it would be pretty noisy with a small amount of frames.
here. my first dslr try at plaentary and 150p!
nice! looks pretty good. I think the weird haze up top might be some internal reflection?
right
about that
seems since i have the heritage i back focus with truss
i think the truss was imablanced heavily to the left
had to record or right
I have some weird things going on too. Is this internal reflections too? Processed by astroniksi
On the left it's just the less lit up part of the planet, on the right I think it's something that gets worse with collimation.
Also some pretty weird colors on the right
whats your setup
6 inch newtonian (skywatcher star discovery 150p) neximage10 cam. Alt az go to star discovery mount (came with scope)
by haze do you mean outside the disc or inside the disc
because mine is defo from truss tube focusing
Both inside and outside
able to elaborate?
WOO truss back focus is so annoying
what is wOo
a sarcastic cheer
The weird colors inside of the planet (on it) and outside of the disk on the right
wait
liek this?
this was my attempt year ago with smartphone adapter
It is pretty similar but mine has also some more aggressive goofy colouring
defo processing artifacts then
cus mine got hella ugly in registax wavelts :/
maybe upload a reerence pic
Like this purple color
Yes
k
then probably wavelets
maybe blur it out more or sharpen less
what is your sampling rate?
you using barlow?
No barlow
It may be a collimation issue but I won't get those colors then
check onine about the relationship of pixel size adn focal ratio
i think it mayt affect the detail levels?
Use a barlow, also i used a bit more agressive processing to get more detail beacuse i forgot that your camera is way different than mine
Mine is a bit worse
Camera
I know, you will get more detail with a barlow, use it please and also use a smaller ROI
By decreasing ROI you mean lowering the resolution? (1920-1200p)
Sorry my english isn't that good I speak my own language too much lol
Same
Yes, i think its .. OF INTREST i dont know that the R meanss!!!
Region of interest
Yes probably
What should I buy if Iโm planning one, the skywatcher 8โ flex tube or the skywatcher 8โ classic
a goto 8 inch dob
Flex tube is if you are traveling a lot and classic it's chunky but no excessive light on the secondary
Id rather a manual tracked dob because a goto is a little expensive for my liking
flextube is awesome if you have a long imaging train
you can retract the tube to achieve focus
What are you doing? Vis, planetary AP?
I say that if you have to futz w/ the tube to achieve focus something ain't right.
The trusses are specifically made to be able to be locked in two different positions
Planetary AP
The only disadvantage to manual tracked that I've had is that the ice giants are a bit of a challenge
Moon and Mars post occultation just now, broad daylight