#Planetary Imaging
1 messages · Page 13 of 1
It could help to adjust preview settings
In FC it’s at the top of the window
It only applies to the preview, not the actual data
You can increase the brightness and gamma and it helps with focusing sometimes
What about SharpCap?
firecapture has this really weird grid thing over the preview for me
so my previews are really bad as well but end results look much much better
thats normal, thats just the bayer pattern
on the toolbar theres a button you can press to debayer the preview, which will basically show it in color
👌
Not as good as y'day perhaps? Bit jumpy but can see a moon just above the south pole i think
Tethys in transit rn
I think better, phone camera doesn't really do justice
Here is Jupiter for comparison @somber stratus
Yeah! Very cool. I got a good 40 mins on it
Uploading...
Still a bit purple, but who cares lol it looks gnarly
Maybe its the red actually
This is a must need accessory
Just out of curiosity is this your framing for the dob?
Like is Jupiter really that big?
Nah, they get used to it. Plus it's kinda enjoyable to zap those assholes
That’s 1:1 yeah
Ikr it’s annoying af
Wow such an amazing rig you have
I doubt my highest fl rig could even make out the red Jupiter spot lol
Time for a SpyderX.
Should I buy an alt az goto mount if I want to do planetary astrophotography. I have a 6" newt and a ceres-c astro cam with a gso 2.5x barlow. Is it a decent setup?
It'll do the trick. Do you already have a mount?
Yea but its a cheap eq3 that recently broke
So I have to buy something else
I found a skywatcher skyscan AZ Go2 mount at 180 euros
Its this one
Without the scope
I mean, as long as it can handle the weight, it'll work
Gotcha, that sounds about right. And tbh they can hold more but tracking won't be as precise, which isn't really an issue for planetary.
I'm unsure how it would handle a 6 inch newt on it though, might wobble a bit much
Every little breeze or focus adjustment will be very prominent especially at high FL
Im used to that with my crappy eq3
Cool
make sure the barlow you use doesn't ruin the optical quality
Caught dione! now to get the other moons
bro that is not jupiter
no im pretty sure thats jupiter, after all jupiter is the only planet
we all live on jupiter, there is just a giant mirror, thats how I got this photo. it blocks the sun sometimes and thats anoyying but its fine, I manage
You're one corrupted person
(satire)
i lost a braincell reading and processing this interaction
my goal is complete


the smudge near the bottom right is iapatus,
Oh yeah now i see it
I’m just gonna say nope. There’s heaps of smudges on this image you could call moons.
then why are these smudges in the correct place to be moons?
like i said, there are heaps of smudges that are in the wrong place.
Rough edit of 2021 - 2023 Saturn
The varying size of the NPR is pretty neat
Pretty crazy how that area changes so much compared to the rest of the planet
Seems like an 🍎 to 🍊comparison. The Seben appears to come with a mount that likely struggles even with visual use while the 130PDS has no included mount.
Good seeing this morn
Hey willaf is ur orion xt6's secondary mirror screws like this?
Btw stunning image of saturn
I have the seben and idk if I should upgrade or not
Saturn, Tethys and it's shadow, Rhea below
A couple Jupiter images, from June 30th and July 1st. 7 x 2m for each
Why does the noise move with the rotation of the planet lol
winjupos
Oh every frame is a derotated stack?
Yeah, about 5m per frame
Thanks! Hopefully i'll catch another transit closer to opposition
wait i'm confused how this moves the noise. Looks like interpolation tbh.
No interpolation, you know how wj timelapses are
Ahh i haven't done these timelapses. Where can you find them in the program?
Well, I'm not sure if this is the best way to do them, but I just derotate 3 frames at a time with 1 frame in-between
You can go more, but I only did 3 so that moons don't get too blurred
What, so say if I had 10 stacks (IMS files), i'd derotate 1-3 to the timeframe of 2, then 2-4 to timeframe of 3, then 3-5 to timeframe of 4 etc?
moving average type thing
Something like that, except I don't set the time, it's just whatever the average time is
Sure, whatever WJ automates. If you capture at a regular rate, it'll be same time as the middle stack
Or at least should be
Yes, you described it pretty well with 1-3, 2-4, 3-5, etc
So when you said 5m per frame, that's 3 x 100-sec derotated or something?
Well I guess it'd be around 6 mins since I'm doing 2 minute videos
Ok, makes sense
but each frame in the timelapse represents 2m in real time, but is made of 6m of data
Yes. It's a cool technique but I'm not a big fan of the noise rotating with the planet lol
Yeah, looks a bit funky
Works ok for Jupiter though.
Can do a good 5 vids here.
I think if there were no transits, you could be able to do 15-20m derotations
yup
Should reduce the noise a good amount
Opposition you can get away with 20m. But at any other time, the terminator is usually quite prone to artefacts when using >15m
As it's dark where the limb of the planet is
Agreed
Good morning/afternoon/evening depending on where you guys are.
Remember the barge that you were looking at a while back on Jupiter? I was looking thorough my images and I never was able to locate it. You know what's sad, though? Based on what I was doing, I may have captured it but I was experimenting with a setup (5x Barlow, 20mm eyepiece, projection to camera) so it didn't come out because the image quality was poor.
@heavy mirage actually how are the moons not blurred in these frames? I thought WJ screws up moons and moon shadows
I did ~15 mins per frame for this, about 8 mins in between. Then interpolation to increase fps
There is a masking feature in WJ, it works alright lol
Every one of my Jupiter photos has an intense halo what to do?
Sharpening artifacts, not much you can do about that. Softer wavelets/sharpening might help but you can also try selecting the background including just inside the limb of the planet, then use median blur or something to soften the edge
If you'd like, I can do a quick attempt with your data @proud mulch
I'm interested to know what you're using and the type of images that you're stacking
Be warned it’s an iPhone video
You can just send the stack
but, either way. I've been warned
I’ll send the videos through media fire as I didn’t do so well either the stacking trust me
Also I deleted the stack 💀
I see, I'd prefer if you sent the video through here or post it in #1021002743080558642
#1126189855383236618 message
Woah, never knew about that. Gotta check that out
Here's what I got out of it. Could probably sharpen a bit more, but it becomes too artifacty
I think you should invest in an astrocam like the asi120 or asi224. It'll make a huge difference @proud mulch
Ok I’ll try it
The only thing I’m worried abt is the resolution lol
(Also edited it or something)
It'll be much better than a phone, resolution should be fine as long as you don't over sampling
What scope are you using, and what power barlow do you use?
130/650 newt
Orion spaceprobe 130st
With 2x Barlow
And 10mm eyepiece (because phones work like that)
So 130 power
Yeah, you'll be fine with those. Resolution should be okay. With 2x barlow you'd be somewhere around f/10
You can in theory go up to f/18
If you get the asi120
But I'd stick with the 2x for now, just to compare results
With 130mm aperture i think f/18 might be a bit too much
True
Also because I’m on a TIGHT budget, which of the 2 should I get?
If budget is first priority, the ASI120MC-S is $50 less than the ASI224MC and has the UV/IR Cut filter built in, which would be a separate purchase with the ASI224MC.
Used is an option too for even less.
Used would be a solid option, as long as it's not too beat up lol
Yeah I’d rather do a 224MC
Hm, this is what mine looks like
Huh big difference
Mine looks more sturdy doesnt it
Well i hope thats the design and it doesnt move lol
Well maybe cause my xt6 is a newer model i guess
Is the secondary centered when you look down the focuser without an eyepiece? The screws on all Sky-Watcher/Orion newts should be recessed unless they have been replaced with longer ones.
Yes it is centered
I’ve never had to adjust my secondary luckily, I just use the collimation cap and keep the dot centered
Current picture on Orion's website has Phillips head screws.
While mines this hmm
Lemme take another image
Only the screws heads are different
How come??
I do wonder
They might've switched suppliers for the XT dobs. They were historically made by Synta but they and Orion were against each other in a lawsuit a few years ago.
The red dot finder and secondary spider looks more like GSO products.
Even when they were made by Synta they evolved over the years.
My friend's XT8 they bought over 2 decades ago has three vanes while another friend's 6 year old XT8 has four.
My reddot dont look like that
Sorry i meant my red dot
Its pretty late rn my brains everywhere
224 kinda ass. Imo the cheaper astrocams arent 100% worth it. Especially the 120.
Just save for a few months and get something decent. Uranus sensor is 4x larger. Helps massively with untracked
Although the 224 is nice enough
Maybe get a ceres c
yeah man I'll give it a shot for you
My try
@sharp ridge I would have reversed the phases tbh
nice regardless
usual comp people use (not mine)
I will 
huge
I’m definitely looking forward to trying to find Venus in the ultra thin crescent phases.
Doesn't get all too close this aparition
Next one with the atmospheric ring is May-June 2028
I was checking it out in stellarium for this year. Still very thin
Yeah but only what, 7deg elongation?
That's near the maximum
(for a conjunction)
Something like that yeah. I was thinking about testing my luck. I’ve been studying and noting Venus’s path through the sky and how the meridian passes through my backyard. I’ve gotten to the stage where I can go outside and pretty much instantly spot Venus at any time of day.
This was Jan 4th, 2022. 8 deg elongation. About what to expect.
I’d like that yeah
Imagine trying to find that
I’ve been finding Venus while I wait for my bus. I catch it at 2:30 ish. I can spot it pretty easily, depending on transparency. Maybe I’ll get lucky with the opposition.
Good-excellent transparency for that nice dark sky
Today was super hazy and I could barely spot it. Other days I swear I can make out the crescent shape.
You just gotta know where to look.
I start to spot it when the sun is close to the horizon
You can also see Jupiter during very good conditions. I’ve spotted it just after midday once.
It’s quite unmissable
My parents have seen it. And they are always complaining about their eyesight
The biggest thing is you gotta be staring straight at it. Your brain is really cool like that so uses AI to fake 99% of your vision so you don’t actually see it unless you notice it first.
Yeah
There was one time I was trying to find Venus a bit before sunset but it took a while to find it and I started seeing thousands of tiny very fast moving Venuses lol
Lmao I know. So bad.
techinically i think thats just I not AI
Perhaps A = annoying
Lol
Also I think it would be funny if you’re just gazing at a planet and it starts moving out of nowhere lol
Something I was thinking about
Apocalypse moment
Fun fact: they are always moving. 
You should try it 
What’s the closest to the sun you’ve imaged
Yeah but I mean fast
Like a satellite moves looking at it naked eye
It seems slow until Mars is coming straight towards you at it’s orbital speed of 24 km/s.
Spoopy
hey i hate to ask but i dont know if im getting all that i can out of this image could someone try to edit this really quicky
Ooooo thank you this is really good
thisa is what i got
but im really new to planetary
thank you!
@random pecan here's my contribution. I flipped it around, and I made it a bit darker to bring highlight to the different bands that were starting to show in the image.
First time I did a planetary edit the way I did that one, by the way. I use Registax and usually I just disable all but one so all editing is done to the entire photo, not individual layers. This one I left the layers on and touched up individual layers based on what I was trying to enhance.
Based on that I'd say the Mars-C is quite a capable camera. I see a lot of potential and I like that I was able to bring out a bit of detail on this one.
I ... had fun with this.
I'm curious - what are your thoughts on the photo?
Oh wow
The difference in the bands in the core are beautiful, the one thing that I would change if I could mask it or anything is the rings
But it still isn’t bad at all
That edit is beautiful thank you!
I’m going to use an ir-cut next time I can get out so I will have sharper imaging
I just wanted to try ir pass
You're welcome. Like I said, I had fun with it. And I look forward to seeing what you can do w/ the IR-cut. I have a UVIR filter myself. Don't be surprised if you wind up having to adjust RGB balance/align with that.
IR pass should actually yield sharper images most of the time. I almost always shoot Saturn in IR-RGB because it only rises up to 27° here
One capture in RGB with UV/IR Cut, the rest with the IR pass and then derotate
Oooo thank you for that
Ir pass is sharper because its uninterrupted by the atmosphere right?
or atleast mostly
Yeah the longer wavelengths get less affected by the atmosphere
Bad seeing lol
I keep changing the focus on my telescope because I’m scared it’s out of focus a little
I’m just scared I’ll miss out on a better focus
I shouldn't share the story of my 3 hours out capturing 576 subs of the Orion nebula in -10F weather.
Honestly though my experience w/ planetary is that you really don't need to worry about focus. I may adjust now and again between a series of shots and probably wind up adjusting right back to where it was. Unless equipment shifted, in which case after I shift the equipment back, well see previous sentence.
Only so much you can do
I had trouble focusing tonight but my seeing was just so bad
It’s easier when seeing is good
I can show you a single shot from a night with poor seeing, and a single shot from a night with good seeing. Difference is ... quite noticeable.
Id like to see
Had a look at Windy.com, and i'm pretty convinced it's due to the relatively strong ~100m-1km winds coming off the continent.
You're a low country too so it'll be particularly bad to have continental winds
Sounds logical
That’s good seeing for me 
???

Lol
@somber stratus People from Brazil are discovering your photos
Nice to hear
blend the seams together then you have a monster
This makes me feel uneasy
Then it would be 
Post in solar system pics now
I mean it technically isnt my image
Yeah
Alright yall ready for the worst post in #older_system_pics history?
Probably should put credit for jerry or ask
I don’t know I have a feeling you should delete this before we get in trouble 
Nah ppl post shit there all the time
Looks like the people approve
I don’t like where this is going 
@sharp ridge approves
Honestly this is really just the pinnacle of planetary astrophotography here in this discord
I mean, you're not wrong
First official photo of Vaturn
What about Surcury?
Should’ve put the rings as the eyebrows
Satus
I mean technically its gonna actually look like that in 100 mil years or so after the rings deteriorate
is he a time traveller????
nakey saturn
@ebon sage how do you feel about auroras being visible from cleveland?
What’s the latitude
cleveland is in ohio
41.4993° N, 81.6944° W to be exact
my grandparents live in a bortle 5 area near it
we are planning to go soon
Easily
huh
U will easily see it
yes
12,332 messages in this forum dang
AND I FINALLY GOT A GOOD ISS PASS AHHHHHHHHHHHHH
Send it now buddy
Handtracked?
yeah
Impressive
Nice
quick stack of 15frames
@fading plume @livid sierra can ya explain what these parameters mean
alr thanks mate

Jesus christ that is good
ugh the background, idk how did that even happen and how to solve it
whatever its pretty good alr
is there a way to get those 2 very very faint moon in an image or are they way too dim
BRO I GOT ONE TOO LIKE 2 HRS BEFORE
color extraction
hmm i see but the background looks terrible that's the thing
i have ps i might try that
also does this look cooked at all?
(this is an ss from registax not the actual full res i assume)
Looks ok
ok nice thanks
i think i did much better here than my first attempt you can clearly see the cassini division here im happy!
and with a 6 inch dob i think i did pretty decent
wow winjupos looks terrifying to use uhh...
@topaz elk absolutely based
How do you guys have good hand tracking 
make sure ur gears r smooth
static friction is too op
anyone wanna try to process this?
this is my current result i just want to see what someone more experienced at this could do
a little better
Woah it’s so much sharper what did you use?
Probably the same stuff as you
registax?
Registax, then levels and a little bit of sharpening adjustment in gimp
Doesn’t rise high enough for him
Yeah, was about to say the same
About the location
Gets to only like 15deg for me in the northeast usa
For me, the best it ever gets to is like 5-10 degrees max
It gets to 90 here hehehehe
You should try it sometime for the memes
I should do tiangong sometime
~equatorial orbit, impossible to see
Same is true of the chinese station being at 40deg inclination. It rises to 10 degrees altitude max for me
Only benefit of being up at 51°N, is I match the ISS's orbital inclination so I get a shit ton of passes.
Same but they happen in cycles tho :(
Every once in a while there isn’t a pass at night at all
Some days there’s 3 passes in a row
Yeah that's normal. I have that too.
Did a shot of Saturn with my 130pds and DSLR, no barlow of course. caught any moons maybe?
looks like i def caught something
focus was not perfect
that was 10 seconds of exposure time
yeah multiple
All but one of them are moons
another moon
Enceladus
Enceladus is magnitudes dimmer than Neptune
A little brighter than Phobos at opposition
Wow, Titan is really bright you could focus on that 
Because people are showing Saturn photos, which of these are moons? I’ll send date in a minute
This is a better photo
I live in eastern standard time (aka Ohio, Florida, and New York time)
Likely just 5
All of those are moons I believe
Whoops I didn’t see toms message
damn did anyone get the Io coming out from behind Jupiter last night/this morning?
i was too sleepy and lazy to get up and capture
yes
this is not an insult, but i dont understand how you color grade your images
they look so much different from everybody elses
i mean it doesnt look BAD does it
No it’s fine
i would suggest using a reference image to color grade
jupiter isn't that dark brown
makes it a whole lot easier to know what ur final color should look like
It looks in a way that causes me to ask what camera equip you're using and what you're stacking. For example, if you're stacking jpeg images you aren't going to bring out any detail because jpg images don't keep details. You're showing bands and I can detect a slight change at the top and bottom, but
You're showing bands and I can detect change in color in the top and bottom bands; the coloring on the other hand seems a bit different for being a true Jupiter color.
Overall, whatever you're using shows that there's a lot of potential, and I'm wondering what resolution the camera is, what's the pixel size, what can be done to sharpen and enhance.
How did you get that? Is it a single shot or is it a stack that you saved as png?
and the other frame
stacked and sharpened already
Hmm. Are you stacking jpg files or are you extracting frames from a movie to tif?
(Coming from someone who stacked jpg files and this looks ... familiar.)
is it physically possible to take a still image of Saturn's moon Titan, with a ground telescope
I would imagine so, with a large enough aperture/magnification
Keep in mind that Titan is SMALL and far away, so don't expect detail, as much as being able to see a point of presence accompanying Saturn
stacking.MOV files
not even with good zoom should you expect anything
Stacking .mov files? Do you mean that you're using PIPP to extract the frames, then stacking?
to make an AVI
Pardon my confusion. When I take the mov file that I have, I take PIPP, extract the frames to tiff files, then stack the tiff files, save the stack as tif. Then I sharpen the tif and save as tif, do some post-process stuff in GIMP, and the PNG doesn't get done until after I'm done with GIMP. It seems like somewhere you're saving the stack as png, that might affect the ability to process. I found when I save as tif my images started coming out better.
It’s about 0.8” across, it can be resolved as a yellow disc with enough aperture. In most images it just appears as a point of light
So ... like I said, no details.
Kind of like how my Venus images are coming out. 😑
i will do a test
I have a picture of titan, and it's "detailed"?
it looks like another planet ( i know its a moon)
send
send anyways
I am
give me a second
I think the circle
in the center
is something with my camera
I don't know what that is
but
uh
Well, it's not a speck of light, it's def yellow, but there aren't any "features" on it, so I would say "not detailed." That said, def a moon because it's absolutely a defined circle.
What equipment was this taken with?
the camera I used
Yeah you resolved the disk shape of the moon
No surface detail can be captured since the entire moon is covered in a thick atmosphere
"Resolved disk shape of the moon" = "I can see that it's definitely a moon and not just a speck."
In other words, it's clearly a circle that represents a moon
And you started off with Titan. Most people use Jupiter as a jumping point and hope they can do Titan later on. The fact that you resolved enough of it that it's clearly a moon and not just a speck is danged impressive, I can't do that yet.
If I get a moon of Saturn it's because it was in the FOV when I was imaging the planet.
my telescope scares me sometimes
I don't even know how strong it is
and it keeps impressing me
Eh, don't be afraid of it. Push it and see what you can do. Push yourself and see what you can do, too. A 13" scope is going to get some good detail when there is detail to be found. The next part of imaging is being able to extract the detail from the data.
Or is it highlight the detail within the data.
Dunno, I'm sure you see my point.
I've seen a speck of an exoplanet with it before..,
I got so scared of itk
for some reason
it was a black speck infront of Electra
star in pleiades
I only saw it after I zoomed in a lot on it
You sure it was an exoplanet and not something on the lens? When I zoom in a lot I start seeing specks all over the place. Granted that's w/ my DSLR not my astro cam
I’m pretty sure that’s not possible
I mean it was just 1 speck
so
idk
Was gonna say.
how could one get a picture like this one?
take a photo every day (with exact same camera setting preferrably) and merge them
but moon cycle
If you take a photo every day w/ exact same camera setting and stack all the images then its like stacking all the images with one night. It'll average out.
My other answer is "heavily aggressive processing and mad processing skills"
I also wanted to know not to do the same
The most detailed image of the moon
🤡
🥴
whoever cooked this severely burnt it
💀
Here's a good idea of correct colors
They are correct
do u know how they got the color to be soft like this tho
blending?
Or this?
yeah
the one i sent
i think the color is with a dslr and detail is with telescope
is what im guessing
I think he just saturated as much as he can
I tried
ya his looks nice outside but don't zoom in 💀
but it seems like his color is from dslr cuz some spots don't have color
he didn't blend all of it in or whatever
Painted it on 
might be oversaturated but i think the orange looks cool
not according to Planet Custodian!!
......
with a dslr!!!!
its called a video lmao
I think mashable doesn't know
they way its written it implies 200k individual photos
i know
All news is the same
Northern Band has expanded a lot
Do you consider this image to be good? I used a dslr
Pretty decent if you zoom in
honestly dslr shouldn't matter
what matters if ur scope or lens u took it with
Ok
I've taken some surprisingly good shots w/ my DSLR
Use registax auto balance. Works pretty good most of the time.
Yes it’s quite possible. Getting surface detail is hard but resolving it as a disc is moderately easy with a big scope. Getting it as a point of light is very easy.
hey out of curiosity why does my chromatic aberration look so much worse on the better focused image, these were raw frames taken a few weeks apart
There is probably some aberration but that red/blue fringing is mostly atmospheric dispersion which affects can be pretty noticeable even at higher altitudes, there are a couple of ways to reduce it. The best way is to shoot LRGB in mono (each channel has a slightly different focus point), but cheaper alternative is using an atmospheric dispersion correct (ADC). Which essentially helps focus the red, green and blue light into a similar focus point
hmm i see i see, yea the first saturn was at a much lower altitude, while the 2nd is at a much higher, i was just wondering why it changed so much
was the seeing just better that day?
Cool comparison related to the topic. Obviously varies from phone to phone, dslr to dslr and Astro-cam to Astro-cam
Finally a comparison that doesn’t have the photos look like this
so pretty much every frame of my videos of jupiter were like this is this normal?
I mean yes
Check if it’s in focus
Also if every frame looks like that, that seeing is … 😩
Here’s my rough one. I know the phone image can get a lot better
But DSLR is pretty much all
If you’re talking about the grey pattern, yes, you just need to debauer
This is the closest I have to good phone image VS astrocam image.
Was also with my old “astrocam”. The SV105
SV105 🤢
Which one is sv105
I mean which photo
Not bad for sv105
I haven’t had better seeing than my SV105 image so I can’t test out my Uranus C properly. I should get better seeing at the end of the year.
It’s fine if the object is bright enough to get detected.
It works
What equipment for each photo (and for the day one which phone)
Both with 8” dob. Phone was with the 8 element Saxon 8mm eyepiece. SV105 image had my DIY 2x ish barlow.
Phone was iPhone 7. But they are all the same
Do yourself a favour and stop using a phone.
The extra 15-20 elements of glass isn’t exactly worth it.
I will when I upgrade to Uranus-c but I will say you undersold the power of the addictive screen
From November ‘21. Phone was workable but astrocam improved everything at least 10000x
This was last September, same scope and Barlow but using a proper camera
@hasty hull ngl your mobile pics are the best mobile pics I’ve ever seen
I’m not a fan of mobile planetary pics generally but yours look exceptionally good compared to others
😋 seeing
😋 compression
What camera
Mars-c
And scope?
Nice
I think they're close to same, the second is just brighter making it more noticeable
very crispy
bro def got the S22ULTRA fr
ah hmm i see, i had the exact same gain and exposure so im not sure why it’s brighter
Samsung Galaxy a10e
I have an iPhone now but that’s what I used then
get it back pls
that is gold for cameras
Nice
My screen totally shattered after falling a bit too hard
After surviving probably dozens of other falls
Rest in peace
*pieces
no not the pattern i know thats supposed to be there its just fuzzy looking
maybe its because its so low though
@proud mulch
Eh, just needs more data.
Why did you ping me? 💀
Thought you might be interested in seeing what we did w/ the same data. Certainly didn't mean for it to be a bother.
It’s fine
✅
I don't like the curve lines on the right side of the planet in this image. Got those all night on that night. Was using 585 w/ UVIR cut filter. Those lines supposed to be there?
think those are features right?
Why are all my mars images at that exact rotation 💀
Not sure, looks kind of off.
ah so it's not a feature
Okay ... thank you.
Thing is in this case the edge rind appears only on images that I have the UVIR filter on. 😦 Lunar photos have come out fantastic.
Though the good news is that aside from the dark rind at the edge, it seems like the setup is capable of capturing some more details than the DSLR.
i use the mars c and its great so far
managed to nab a few photos now
only a 6 inch sct too, im working on an image right now actually
some haze around it but for the most part its pretty
Is it possible to stack the ISS untracked?
And when your tracking the ISS manually, it’s better for more fps right?
Yes
Just shoot a video over the whole pass, do the PIPP thing then stack
Yes
Got this 10 minutes ago so I know what I’m talking abt
Yeah usually if you hand track it’s around 10-50 frames.
The right side is detail with a touch of edge rind. The limb is always bloated upon sharpening. You’ve just got a dark albedo feature inside the limb so it looks extra contrasty.
Looks like it’s probably the albedo features near 30 longitude, east of Valles Marineris perhaps?
Would need to know the timestamp to be certain
Not bad, here is my stack and process
I would be ecstatic if those dark lines were supposed to be there b/c that would mean that the equip is capturing more data (as a $550 dedicated astro cam should and danged well better), but I'm skeptical because I didn't see it before the UVIR cut filter. That said, maybe the filter is letting me see things that I wasn't seeing w/o the filter.
Timestamp is 4/9/2023 at 20:39 EST
Somebody went w/ a lighter processing set.
I mean someone had to
Yeah, I agree. Did you just tone down the red to make it look less like an orange and more like a planet?
Yeah, I figured that it would look more natrual like that
Were you observing daylight saving at this time?
Assuming UTC-4:
Looks about right
So if I say "Yes I was" then what I have is actually SOMEWHAT correct
Doesn't rotate much in 1 hour. It is the region i thought it was initially
Looks to be detail
Any way you slice it ... it's actually a Mars feature, not a flaw in the equip
Yeah, or just the diffraction related edge-rind that willaf linked https://skyinspector.co.uk/mars-edge-artefact/
Is it weird to try and image Jupiter in mono
I don’t wanna use my dslr as it’s got a big sensor and I only use for like moon pics sometimes
Seriously. 😑
Which I did bookmark that article. That said, since what I'm looking at seems to be internal to the planet disk and not light/washout like I would expect, is it safe to consider that it's a feature, rather than the edge-rind?
It's both, the very edge of the planet is bright which is the edge rind. The dark part just next to it is detail
The rind seemed to be a bit subtle compared to what I'm used to seeing on the edge, for example when I'm having to correct for the rind on a lunar shot.
It worked.
I hope you don't mind checking, are we possibly looking at the same feature in this image? 4/13/2023 at 20:59. Ignore the color, I've got to reprocess anyway b/c apparently I checked something in AS!3 that snarled things.
Nice
Oh, that does look like a yes, the black line is a feature, not a bug. Just pretty well defined.
I need a bigger scope
i swear you dont have an SCT
i remember hearing a Dob
Dob, SCT, what's the diff? (ducks)
No I have an sct
Wish I had a 16 inch dob but whatever
You can get a 16" GoTo dob for about $4500, so not too horrible. Talk about bang for buck on that
But if you don't have $4500 in your back pocket then it's just an exercise in wishful thinking
oh wait that was another guy

Yep
I’m gonna get a 10” dob if I can’t use my unis 16”
I saved up over a couple summers doing part-time work. Totally doable if you commit to it.
You must not live in the US.
UK, across the pond.
Ah, that's why you can save up. 🙂
🤔
I was trying to be funny. Evidently it didn't work.
The 400P is also about 20% more expensive in the US than UK so it’s a lower bar to clear over there.
I was going for the "min wage is $7.25/hr" angle and that +20% really doesn't help.
Not everyone earns minimum wage
Walmart pays like $17/hr 🙂
College
I already work part time but that work is put to college money
And I have a girlfriend so I spend money on her
Walmart pays me 14 an hour
I’m currently pretty happy with the 6” sct I have though I think it imaged great
I mean I’m impressed at what I’ve gotten already even when seeing is not ideal
I mean this is below average seeing from it and I’m happy with that
Need to turn the brightness up a little though
The biggest next purchase is going to be an adc
I consider the ISS as a planet
Do red filters help for manually tracking the ISS? Does it not streak the ISS in live feed like this
Red filter make it so there are less overexposed pixels (at least for me)
Basically just use a manual camera mode and lower shutter speed to something low (I recommend one of 1/8000 of a second but it does underexpose it a bit)
@somber stratus IOTD
bro is collection iotd wins like a boyscout getting badges
What is IOTD
Image of the day
Why Ganymede got the reverse Mimas treatment
What does the raw data look like too?
i also did a process
There’s a pixel error above Ganymede
Nice
Mimas?
Ah, that bump? It already came like this in the raw files
Never thought a quick run through sharpness would actually work
Even in Ken's processing it is visible
Way better 
is there any way to see the live view of a giant space telescope like jwst or hubble? i feel like it would be really interesting to see raw video from a telescope that good
I don’t think it works that way
Pretty sure even for planets the exposures are longer than what we use
That barely needs any sharpening.
So how does one get raw data from Hubble/JWST?
Download from mast or opal proposals
Think that is a hot pixel in red channel
Osiris crater
rip
Are there any good tutorials on planetary processing? Ive only ever got to a stack out of as3
Maybe this?
I honestly forgot,
and the camera i used
is
ZWO ASI294MC Pro Color Astronomy Camera
that thing
Did you use a Barlow
You can't use a lense with a camera...
Unless you can
yes you can
Uh
The camera uses your telescope as a lens
Unless you have the T-shape adapter on a dslr camera
Which I dont
? You can still have an imaging train
Most good planetary setups have an astrocam, barlow, adc etc
Pretty much always use a Barlow
For planetary atleast
Unless if your native fl is 4000mm use a Barlow
Mine is 1500mm so it’s actually ~3000mm fl because that’s a 2x Barlow
I think I need a biologist for that one
YOOOO
bro i saw this i need the ch4
Both aren't great tbh
8nm is too tight. Same as the Baader 8nm. Image is wayyy to dark. I have the 20nm ZWO and that's bad enough.
And UV is too short of a cut-off wavelength. Too deep into the UV. Transmission, seeing and Earth's atmosphere's transparency becomes an issue.
I do need a filter for venus
problem is google tells me like 83219321 filters that I can use to get more detail out of venus
am now confused
I've been told to use IR Pass for Venus. Honestly I took shots of Venus with my DSLR and no filter that have come out better than shots taken with my ASI585 and UVIR cut filter, and I'm going to see if I have any that were done w/ ASI585 and no filter. Take that for what you will.
ok cool
I have my ir pass 685nm
Wratten #47 purple filter + UV/IR cut, or go for a Baader Bessel-U.
Not sure what wavelength the IR Pass would need to be, all I was told was "IR Pass filter
Hi
610, 685,742,807,850,CH4
@somber stratus I'm imaging w/ UVIR cut right now, and all my images are pretty heavy on blue. I've had to go in and adjust blue levels in a couple of images. Any thoughts on what's causing it? Do I need to learn to deal?
What camera
ASI585
It's more likely to be incorrect RGB gain settings in Firecapture/Sharpcap then
or ASICap, whichever you use
Using SharpCap.
There will be a White balance setting somewhere
on the right side, next to exposure/gain
Hm. Sounds familiar. I'll have to check that then.
It won't be damaging your data though so don't worry about that. Just a case of colour correction in post processing
That's pretty much what I've been doing. Most of the time I can handle using hue/saturation toggles. Every now and again I have to get into levels and drag the blue setting around.
Registax & Astrosurface both have individual R,G,B gain sliders, these are much better than hue/saturation and temperature controls
This is a redone Mars from 4/13. Found out the black line following the edge is actually a feature. And maybe I got lucky enough to grab a hint of a polar ice cap at the top. And I absolutely adjusted the RGB in Registax.
That black inner circle on the right side seems more like an edge rind related thing than detail to me
Part of it is detail
agree
Confirmed w/ map and help of someone here that it is part of a feature around Valles Marinas, there's a dark area area that goes around the planet that was facing at the time of photo.
I won't claim perfection. Working w/ 8" scope, new cam, still learning processing, so I won't deny that there's some edge rind involved. But it's not all edge rind.
About the colour i'd go for. Your blue channel is very weak though, might have been a poorly set value in Sharpcap, i'm unsure.
I actually removed some blue. Want the original?
Sure
That was me. I agree though, it's part detail, part edge rind.
Mars is only like 4” currently so you shouldn’t expect much
Yeah
It’s detail but the circle is covering the detail
Thought so, and thank you for the help
Here's the unprocessed stack
Wouldn't the dark be the detail and the bright to the right be rind? That's what I was thinking? Or maybe because it's close to the edge the rind is causing the detail to darken because I don't have a bigger scope so I'm limited to what detail I can get even w/ a better cam?
about the colour
These lines are related to edge rind I’d say. Not exactly the outer bright edge rind you’d normally see. Maybe this has a different name but they are definitely related to some kind of optical thing
this was R = 1.04, G = 0.98, B = 2.76
"Not the best seeing and Mars is really far away right now."
Yeah, that’s what I said it’s like 4” rn
Gonna admit I rely heavily on Registax auto balance for color, works beautifully for my Jupiter photos but it really struggles with Mars. I've seen it turn Mars BRIGHT BLUE or Green so I use manual settings for a different night w/ Jupiter, seemed to work.
I have NO idea whatsoever how to figure out values that work like what you just gave and it seems to look a bit better with those.
yeah autocolor on mars never works well
Even Jupiter is very slightly blue when you saturate it
I mean it works ok, it's not terrible for Jup
Based on what I've seen on my images, I think Jupiter is the only planet that auto balance really works well and close to as intended. Saturn winds up being gray-blue, and Mars just ... doesn't.
And for me, like I said, I don't know how to fix colors like what you just did
Don't worry, this is normal, it's not just you.
Is there any software that fixes balance correctly or am I going to have to make note of your values for Mars and figure out the other planets to manually adjust?
i say autobalance in astrosurface is far better as you can use a specific area eg rings of saturn n mars polar cap
Fair - and where is this auto balance in AstroSurface? I could never find it
w-balance
Can you recommend some?
#1019937457095065731 message
I don't see it? 
Ah thank you I didn’t scroll down
OF COURSE in front of my face, thank you
hehe
Ehhhhh. I mean, it's not blue as all get out but
Yo people
Yah?
Croatian here🇭🇷
Aight
Man I love the planet mars
Anybody got a really I mean really good picture of mars
I named my dog Mars
I mean the planet, but seems like you are trying to say you also like the planet mars
I mean
Its my fav planet too, thats ehy i named him Mars
Look at this, it even has CLOUDS!!!
Yes!!
Its so beautyfull, sadly i didn't have my scope when it was at opposition😭
oeuf,
but yea
i think i am going to focus more on planetary, idk, i want to also photograph nebulau,
nebulae
but planetary is easier and less expensive,
is there someone who can tell me what a descent setup can cost?
Not so sure
probably someone will see my comment and help, hopefully
I'll take a look
You're funny.
Don't let this dissuade you from taking up the hobby. Let it be ONE individual perspective and maybe an insight to set your expectations about cost and ease.
My planetary setup started with a $700 8" Newt, the 2x Barlow it included, and a DSLR. Since then I've spent about $200 investing in better Barlow lenses - a 3x for $50 and a 5x for $150. Nothing wrong with the scope. Recently invested about $450 in a dedicated astro cam. Should invest about $2500 in a decent GoTo EQ mount, likely EQ6-R. So already have invested over $1300 in JUST PLANETARY, should invest another about $1500. Oh! I forgot the filters! $20 for a UVIR cut filter, which is likely the very basic of filters you'll need. To help mitigate the effects of atmosphere, you may want to get an Atmospheric Dispersion Corrector; that will run another $130. All told you're looking at about $4000 for decent planetary equip ... if you already have a laptop. Add another $500 for a decent laptop.
So if you're wondering why I said "you're funny." in response to "planetary is easier and less expensive" - this is why.
And I haven't even gotten into the struggles I've had with processing. I mean, data capture, well, if there is a way to "cheat" for data capture in the AP world, planetary absolutely has it knocked. Take a video recording of your target for a few minutes and you can get a fantastic image. After you extract the frames from the image and stack them, the easy part is done. Next you have to sharpen/denoise, correct color, get rid of stray bits ... and there are always stray bits, compensate for heavy colors on the camera, and so on.
Again ... just consider, when you say "less expensive and easy," I had to laugh. I waited MONTHS to get the dedicated astro cam because that's how long it took for funds to be available. And for me, if I can't pull it out of my back pocket without thinking about it, it's expensive.
I feel like mine is more purple?
Or I could just sharpen a bit more ...
So far my setup has costed me ~800 usd
i mean thats my current image im editing if thats anything to go off of
i can get better but i havent had any excellent seeing nights since i started planetary
"Good enough" on enough things and you can get some great output.
True
Oh okay!! Thank you for telling me and educating me!
And I did not try to be mean by saying “less expensive” or easy. I just though that but I was wrong
I am interested in getting a planetary gear
Since it really interest me
and what how much does the viewing experience equate to the actual image
Bro thats sick!
That's really an apples/oranges question. With a decent setup you can see the rings on Saturn, bands on Jupiter, and it's an amazing thing to see. Take the same setup with the right equip, there's definitely a feeling of accomplishment to get your first stack sharpened and see the details come out then color ... that, too, is amazing and in a different way. Looking at it through the eyepiece with your own eye brings you a certain kind of awe about things that isn't the same as when you successfully process an image.
Oh and the view in the eyepiece is never exactly the same as the view in the image.
yea that makes sense
but you'll definetly need a goto mount just for tracking or not
or you could buy a motor
its not like planets are invisible
(not considering neptune and uranus)
HOLY REALLY
those images are class man!!
Thanks! Jupiter and Saturn were done on a DSLR. Mars was with an ASI585.
All were tracked manually; I let the planet move across the screen and I adjusted when it got close to the edge.
and these where caught with the 8 inch newt right?
Correct. The big Jupiter and Saturn were taken through 2 - 2x Barlows (I stacked them, fun fun), the smaller Jupiter was taken through a 3x, and the Mars was taken through a 3x Barlow
I consider the 8" Newt to be great. The mount is "good enough" for what I'm doing with it, and the DSLR is also "good enough". That's why I said you can get some really good/great images with "good enough" equipment. It'll be a challenge to image Uranus/Neptune with that as it is. Technically can be done, I have to be really good at spotting unless/until I get a GoTo
ah alright, one more question, i have heard that a baralow does decrease the image quality a bit of the telescope, is that true?
only if it exeeds the limit afaik
That has not been my experience TBH. There are a couple of things to consider. One, if as @safe compass stated, it exceeds the potential limit of the scope. Limit is considered to be 2x (aperture diameter in mm). So my 8" scope is 200mm aperture, max mag is about 400x. If I try and magnify something to 500x it won't look so good. Other factors can come into play, such as atmospheric seeing (how foggy/turbulent is it).
The other thing is quality of the Barlow lens itself. Don't get cheap plastic built stuff w/ plastic lenses. All of my Barlow lenses are multi-element, multi-coated. I paid $50 for the 3x and $150 for the 5x
ah alright, i remember that with a barlow lens that came with my telescope the image(by image i mean what i saw) was just sh tty
this is a photo i maneged to grab with the telisope
telescope
It's really hard to get a single image to come out well; even on the best night you won't get as much detail in single image as you can by taking a video, extracting the frames, and stacking.
That said I can definitely tell it's Saturn
That was the mane objective haha, my phone was just being real trippy and filled the gab between Saturn and its rings. This was also made like a year ago.
Maneged to get this single frame
I want to experiment more w/ phone AP. I can do pretty well w/ single images, but getting a video to collect data on the phone is a challenge.
@proud mulch this guy is a beast with his phone
he can tell you some tips he uses
like
wow
The challenge I have is not being able to set the gain/ISO on the phone like I can w/ my DSLR or astro cam
Basically what to do
Shoot multiple videos
You only need around 20 seconds to make a good image tbh (with good seeing of course)
And if if you get lucky, you can stack multiple




