#Planetary Imaging
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
It's tracked, SW Synscan GoTo
probably, you have drift to deal with
i use 10-15ms tracked due to seeing anyway
Very good to know. Thanks for the advice Tom, your images are hugely inspirational to me
I have one last question, for the 2023 planetary season, I have the option of either a tracked 12 inch, or an untracked 16 inch. If those were your two options which would you go for? I really do hate dealing with drift but aperture is king
When doing my planetary I have just been adjusting both gain and exposure till it looks all right is this the best way to do it. Or is there the right exposure time to use with different seeing?
Comes with experience, but i wouldn't go longer than 20ms in any case
then whatever gain is required to get good image brightness
hmm, idk, 12 probably unless seeing is supremely good
what is a bresser wifi 3000
and left is better
but only bc of the colour is nicer
That was how the math worked out to not smear even a single pixel, technically its the part facing dead on to you at the equator that smears first, then expands kind of in a circle from that point as you smear more
I'll see if I can work out how to visualise that
yeah i know, it's just AS!3 is great at correcting for the movement between frames
so these estimates are very conservative
As ill have cloud for a while, possible to see where it breaks down? I'll update it to show where it should smear, most of its just going to be trig and drawing an oval over an image as the surface wind velocity ends up negligible
had a play with false colour & inverted images bc i was bored. This is just rad lol
Could I get some quick tips for my first night doing astrophotography? I have a tripod and a DSLR, manually tracked, and I'm hoping to focus on Jupiter and the Moon for tonight
I was in your shoes once, I would use video if you have 1:1 crop and no compression for the video file. If not then RAW images would be the second best option. Make sure to use a fast exposure speed so the image and details doesn’t blur/smear. Make sure to not be touching your camera and let it drift across. Also, an intervalometer is great for the second option
ill check the video capabilities of it but im pretty sure it can do those things
also, i can control exposure time from the camera itself, does the intervalometer do something else that would make it worth it?
also, thank you for the quick response
For the second option it takes images for you without having to touch it, quick and won’t smear your image
ah yeah thatd be nice
More images is better so you don’t want delays in between
how easy is it to smear?
It depends on the focal length and barlow but it’s not that easy for smear
i’d go somewhere 1/320 for exposure time
oh im not using a telescope
i dont have the adapters required to attach it to my dob yet
ahh okay
i guess i would use the max focal length 300mm
you should be able to frame the full moon on that
for jupiter you may be able to get the moons but i don’t think you’ll get any details
Yeah moons of Jupiter will be easy
will details of Jupiter itself be possible?
nope
you can try but i don’t think so
will it be an issue of magnification or ISO?
cuz in that case ill only spend a little time on Jupiter and the rest on the Moon
magnification
I’ve seen people capture Saturn’s rings at 300mm
I’ve seen it at 55mm
X to doubt.
right but saturns ring are big
jupiter details are tiny
maybe possible would good conditions but highly unlikely
Someone’s done it in dis server 
only one i found was a guy with a 300mm lens and and 2x
can i see?
you talking about kerbal madness?
I think so
he has 1000mm lens no?
Post says 55mm fl for fun
rings sure but eh
Fine, I'll do it myself
I will image Jupiter'
Jupiter's details with a DSLR and a Lens
No telescope because thats cheating
i mean a lens is technically a telescope
Yeah but the camera needs a lens
so
it doesnt count
jupiter detail with 2.5 mm focal length
literally impossible
a telescope is just a bigger lens, its not really all that different
i mean you're not wrong
but
a manual focus, fixed focal length lens
U know what I mean
It's not as powerful as a telescope
It's a camera
The goal is catch Jupiter's details with a camera
without a dedicated telescope
no.. a 300mm lens made well enough isnt any real different from a 300mm refractor?
stop breaking my argument
I got into astro because I wanted a high focal length lens for daytime stuff and a telescope was cheaper... 😄
reflectors too 😄
i have never seen a reflector camera lens
not denying they exist just never seen one
thats so cute
syms pocket sized rig using one 😄
thats just monoculars
monocular is a telescope
camera lens 
im getting destroyed here
I'm trying to make a point and I'm getting shot down immediately
someone help me out here
@ebon sage
?
look at the gif...
seconds ?
yes. as3 can derotate a lot of stuff
40s isnt by any means the "limit"
or 2 mins
especially on your small scope
so as3 is actually really good at derotation? damn i didnt need to derotate my 3x1min vids
probably not yeah
well the limit is 3 mins so no
it’s more like past 5 mins is where ppl derotate
Do you guys use brute force alignment or ultra smooth map recombination in autostakkert 3?
what?
we don't
Im basically starting from scrath with collimation with some cool new tools ordered a spotting template from catseye to makesure everything is centered and a book about newtonian collimation frpm the master of collimation vic menard and a 2in to m42 thread adpter to elimate and wobble when fine tuning with ocal. Ive now spent kore on collimation then I did on the scope my goodness it hurts. I hope I can be properly collimated by mars opposition if not then by jupiter szn next year 🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲🥲
Scratch*
Mars 2022-05-28, image from the HOPE Probe
My best Jupiter so far, shot with my iPhone camera and an 8” dob
I’m quite proud that I’ve got to the point where it’s not a glowing ball but now I lost the moons lol
@ruby tartan how much should i stack?
I always stack 25% of frames
and how many APs ?
(this was taken thru phone and 8" dob)
Depends on the size of the planet and the amount of detail, I usually put it in the equatorial bands and poles for Jupiter
is this fine then?

Do you guys know when using a Barlow with my C14 that the quality of the images goes down then without? @sharp ridge
2022-05-31
alr thanks
DUDE
the best image of mars ive ever seen till now
GAH DAYUM
It is from the HOPE probe of the arab emirates, I only processed
oh
i have some Jupiter's data
if anyone wants to process , please give it a go :)
why cant i upload the tif
Good stuff
Nice, do you use a 200mm too?
200mm ?
8”
yeah 8"
8" dob and ASI smth
mars is not fun untracked at 80 degrees
True
planets arent fun untracked , especially in barlow....
i mean we use barlow everytime
unless you got a 16" 💀
80 degrees? 
yeah 78*
The maximum that Mars reaches here is 50 degrees
it was goddarn cold outside
That’s Jupiter for me, Mars reaches like 75 here
focus is really hard when 80% of the frames are like this lol
saturn is smth like 70 here
Another image from 2022-05-31 by Hope probe
can you provide the link for the data?
saturation and vibrance
ahh
can you suggest any specific apps for this ? (free)
or softwares
@topaz elk bruh
if i upload the same image , the settings dont change LOL
@jolly ice darktable or gimp
Noisy but good
sure that's not from your dob? 
i would hope not
New best planetary images 
purely depends on the quality of the barlow
That just means you’re using a poor quality Barlow
What exotic said
Ok thanks I will look into a better one.
Just shot Saturn with a 20 inch scope, I’m hoping the data is nice when I download it later 👀
smhmyhead
20% of my 3 min recording is my best saturn yet
i have a 5 min recording processing now, 9k frames
yr sharpening wavelet is to big i think
i sometimes go as low as 8% & just stack the stacks / derotate
i suck at em
maintains maximum image sharpness but enough data to denoise
sweat
u got some weird debayer artefacting
what stack is that?
20%
denoise it out 
you can
I literally go for max sharpness for the data. Slider 1, no denoise. Then use derotation to denoise through averaging
alright, probably gonna reedit this later but this is the 20% 3 min
runnin the 5 min through pipp before because as3 keeps failing with it. memory suff i think.
@sharp ridge what should my APs be looking like for a pipp stabilised video?
@somber stratus may i ask you a question regarding a camera as you are one of the best planetary imagers here?
go ahead
I already ask Ken but still, 2 statements are nice too.
I have a 6" SCT ( yeah kinda small but the way to go for me ) and if needed a 2x TelVue barlow.
Currently looking for a new camera to get the best results for lunar / planetary imaging.
The ZWO 432MM looks good when looking at ZWOs marketing BUT Ken already said that i would need insane FL to use it.
Ken is correct
( I already had the 385MC, 178MM and MC, 294MC and 533MC for testing last years. )
I finally want to get a really good camera esp. for lunar imaging.
also i'd go for a one-shot-colour cam instead of Mono personally
hmm
ok, for Lunar mono can work of course
That's what my 6" SCT can do with a 178MM under mediocre / meh seeing.
i'd say the Player-One Apollo-M Mini (IMX429) isn't a bad shout
otherwise the Player-One Mars-M (IMX290)
But tbh you're better off saving for a bigger aperture scope not gunna lie
Camera doesn't make that much of a difference
I am sitting in the middle of 500k people. Seeing / transparency is an issue. So i am not sure if a bigger aperture would help.
Tom in bad seeing > me in perfect seeing
I mean, i saw your images here ( both of you ) - stunning!
Aperture really is everything
even in poor seeing
The beautiful C9.25 jumped in price by 400€ here. 😦
Like under perfect seeing, Ken can barely resolve Ganymede's bright Tros Crater with a 11" SCT, but it's pretty much a certainty with my 16" Dob regardless of conditions. It's a joke.
inflation moment
Ok ok ok. Wait what?!
I should add - big city, balcony is right now the only way to go. Sooo a dob is ehm... maybe not suitable.
honestly dob works better there because polar aligning a eq on a balcony might be hard :). unless you get a cpc9.25
Yeah, no im not saying get a 16" Dob lol, i'm just emphasising that it's probably worth upgrading the scope rather than the camera
Also balcony can improve seeing quite drastically due to the height above ground which re-radiates heat
I do polar alignment without seeing north at all ( balcony facing East - South - West only ) in 5 mins. No problem. 😄

I was hoping ZWO would release a successor of the 290.
662 now right?

tbf they have the uncooled 533 at Player-One
that's close enough
91% QE, IR isn't as good though of course
Tom, Ken... if you tell me now that those 2 cameras as nice and would fit my scope... i will actually buy / test them. 😄
buy both 290 and 662
, use L-color method
462, 585 & 662 are OSC colour cams. The uncooled Saturn-M SQR (IMX533) is mono
Damian Peach now uses the Saturn-M with his C14
but it is near 1000 euro
OSC cams aren't
O_O i saw it on their page
Also, aperture moment, to prove my point. Trash seeing but Ganymede's still insane. This is 1m scope
A dobs would cost me another 1000 here.
A dobs adds even more questions. Flex-tube? Solid tube? Which aperture?
I can’t unsee this
;D Oh come one. And for the lols - add the 432MM.
well, only for solar
Thank you guys for your help! 🙂
The best planetary astrophotographer in the world
guessing you've seen this one of his? (well, kinda shared credit). Pic Du Midi, France. 1.06m scope.
use mono capture then color then mono, derotate them to same time and combine
this guy from japan does it very well https://www.youtube.com/user/SuperRbstar
i think it remains one of the best ground-based images ever taken, period
dude
you still lose SNR. I'm confused what he's doing
that crazy
idk, although his color result is dog, his lum is great which saves the image
im confused, he uses two diff cams? OSC for colour layer & mono for Luminance with a UV/IR cut?
Bro, I've seen all his pics, I'm fan number 1
yeah, with flip mirror
Well, i wanna stick to lunar first. Try to get some nice details close-ups. No full disc or stuff i posted earlier.
More like that image but better. ( YES, more aperture but for that i need to talk to my telescope dealer. )
interesting
i wonder why its better, ik improved SNR
but why would the sharpness be better, or is it not
his imaging train looks fkking ridiculous
lol
tbf you may as well just go full mono, makes no sense
colour response on OSC cams are slightly overlapping due to the QE response.
So it's not as clean and/or accurate
Custom GRS settings for stellarium, accurate to ~7 years.
^are you able to pin? @sharp ridge
well its easier, you just need a few mins of color data and focus all on mono lum
nope :C
suppose
Well in which case, of course his OSC data will be trash looking
if he's only doing a few captures
There is a successor of the 178MC?! The 678MC... mhm. Any thoughts on that?
havent looked at it
All i look for is FPS, QE Response (including IR), and then FOV/Pixel size
ah not that guy smh
Aw hell nah not this fella
What happened?
big funny
nothing, just stupid good
I will ask the raw files for him
OK guys. I will do it and report.
tbf i could also ask D Peach for the raw files from the Pic Du Midi observing mission
i've been in contact before
Guess i am the first to test the 678MC here. OSC it is - as you said there is nothing wrong with lunar imaging with OSC.
I don't think he will send it to you, he didn't even send these files on patreon
He owes his images to the company store
Ok ... ZWO 678 MC order done. Reporting back in a few days! ❤️ I have already someone who would take it if i don't need it.
I was looking at his patreon and I found the pic du midi file
Dahm, I forgot how good his files are, I'll process it all over again
Slightly better than first one too.
Looks kinda like my first Saturn
I’ve been using a dslr for planetary and I kinda want something a little better, is there something that would fit an f/5 12 inch dob well that might work for planetary and maybe dsos?
I would use my dslr for dsos but it can’t reach focus with anything below a 3x Barlow
And a camera that can do dsos and planetary may be a bit much to ask but something that won’t break the bank that’s good at planetary would be nice too
Also preferably a color camera because idk how to do mono stuff lol
Uranus C imx 585
hi, a quick question whats better: plain sensor or crappy color abberating 2x barlow?
Setup for Saturn tonight.
got a cold from imaging mars 
Just stuck a barlow to my t-ring. Hope it works
Never thought id try planetary. So my barlow has no threads
Polar projection of Ganymede's shadow ingress
@somber stratus I know you said it was probably just a low quality Barlow but do you think not using a UV/IR cut filter with the ASI462MC would make it more blurry?
You should always use a UV/IR cut
in any case, and it shouldn't affect image quality at all
in terms of sharpness/blur
Ok because I wasn’t using one at the time I had forgot to put it on because clouds were coming quick. Also I noticed with the UV/IR filter the colors were a lot of is that normal?
Aug 9th, double eclipse polar projection timelapse
how do you derotate mars, is there a tip or something besides manually setting the outline?
not really, you just have to do it manually
If you guys had a single 4-5 minute capture of Jupiter or Saturn, do you think you'd get the best result by stacking the whole video at once, or splitting it into 4-5 parts, stacking those separately, and derotating the stacks?
whole thing if you're using a mid sized scope
AS!3 is pretty good at dealing with a little movement
It's a 10 inch
Got it. I'll chop my captures into the best 3 minutes of seeing and do a single stack. No need for derotation until I can start taking much more data
3 minutes is a good rule of thumb for Jupiter, Saturn, and Mars untracked?
And do it 10 times
zero noise
agree
5 for Mars
Just out of curiosity, do you actually get the best result derotating 10 3 minute captures? Wouldn't that be way over the 15 min limit for limb artifacts?
Mars - 30min
Jupiter - 10min
Saturn - 20min
Uranus/Neptune - 30min
I think that's enough
I was under the impression that when derotating, 4 stacks is normally enough to drastically improve the SNR
made my first tiny saturn with that ductape barlow assembly. Next time i should use a guide cam, 6D pixels are too big
it is true that you get diminishing returns as you stack more as SNR increase goes with the sqrt (time integrated).
I.e 8 mins will have 4 times the data as 2 mins, but only sqrt(4)=2x the SNR.
Equally, it would take another 4 fold increase in data to increase the SNR by another factor of 2. I.e going from 2m->8m has the same effect on the SNR as 8m->32m, but ofc you're having to add 24mins of data compared to just 6m to double the SNR. Hope this makes sense.
The initial derotation of images, say 4 that you mentioned has a much larger effect than if you just added another 4 on top to make 8 stacks integrated.
There's so much that goes into planetary imaging man. It's been a hell of a ride learning this hobby in the last year. Appreciate the help
Damian
Me
I love this coloring that Damian uses, but it's really hard to get the same
lmao i thought that was comparing images from your scopes
i dont think this star is symmetrical, do i adjust primary or secondary mirror?
primary i believe
ty
bro spent hundreds of dollars on collimation just to revert back to the old methods 💀
oh sorry
better, needs to go towards 7 o clock
you two have similar pfps
I adjusted the colors a little more, now I think it's almost the same
now you're as good at processing as The Peach
i want a 6ft dob
@fading plume close?
yeah thats quite good
tysm for help
average
Seeing kinda bad rn
its already like 30 degrees here
Is this a collimation issue? I feel like it’s worse than before lol
Or just bad seeing
seeing probably
I hope so
looks like stacking?
the star never lies as long as its centered
Hmm idk, it was like a 45s capture
there are 2 things that will never lie to you, stars and collimation cap
a centered collimation cap will never lie
True
Exciting stuff
managed to get MW despite the full moon
impossible
i can only see like 2 stars right now
im b9 currently
i can get MW with a full moon tho
arent you bortle 1
you image in the middle of nowhere
3
i’m b7
im b6 but moons upgraded me to b9
good for pipp stabilised vid?
no too many aps
yeah that’s a lot
like 15-20?
id do like 10 personally but
yeah maybe try 150 size
150 gives 11
i only use 1 ap but jupiter is pretty small in my images so you need a bit more
too many is bad though from experience
not too bad for first ever jupiter with the dob
ya
waiting for stack
@coarse aspen
3 min stax
JESUS
stack
IT'S SO GOOD
uhhh i might sure
ill do one for the homie
quick process coming right up @topaz elk
and registax crashed lmao
speedrun process
world record processing under 30 seconds
@topaz elk
yeah thats pretty soft
what scope and cam do y have?
Saturn stacks have been dialled in so gotta re-edit
8” dob and IMX290 webcam
damn must be a low fps
30
with smallest roi
FPS is fixed and roi is a bit weird with sharpcap
yeah since u do ap
I'm used to my data
DAMN yours can be pushed really far
Sharpened further
deep sky gets to capture any day that isnt a full moon or gibbous moon

Narrowband 
cant you do narrowband during full moon, or is that just LP
you're right
but still anything near the full moon cant be saved
bad seeing again
Was sent here from #🤓-ask-a-nerd: "I want to upgrade my planetary camera in a few months. I currently have an asi120mc-s, thinking about the Player One Mars-c? Might want to go with the neptune tho because of the wider FOV, I hand track and usually just let the planets cross the FOV so the small sensor size of the asi120mc-s is a pain, and the Mars-C isn't too much bigger. Just wondering if I would get less detail because the sensor is bigger/zoomed out more"
was bored and saw this, thats some real good data
what scope/camera?
8 inch untracked and asi178mc
oh just saw ur description lol
nice I also have an 8" dob
how was seeing during this?
4/5
nice
with 8" id say imx462 or imx178 @wary siren
ah so probably the neptune?
oh ok
the neptune has the imx178
it'll be nicer too with a bigger FOV so I'm not shifting the scope every 5 seconds
oh ok
I usually use 3x
although I've tried 2x recently and it wasn't that much worse
yeah only 1.5x difference
wait nvm 2x is probably optimal for your camera bc of the higher resolution
my camera is 1280x960 so I think 3x is optimal for it
at 2x I think its undersampled a bit
def undersampled at 2x for Mars, Jupiter and Saturn tho are still decent at 2x
Nice. I have to basically track the whole time
Can’t wait for the dob motor mount thing to be done
yeah manually tracking is a pain in the ass
Then you bump it and spend a full minute trying to find it again
I get about 4 1/2 mins of recording but pipp only outputs like 3 1/2 because it’s out of the frame most of the time
Not most of the time but yk
I’m gonna run some stacks of this data and blink it. This is so dumb I can’t tell the difference between it lol
liek
i think 50% which is what i edited before is best
gonna try my 50% drizzled one now
ok drizzled is def better cassini
vs undrizzled
both same preset for wavelets
1.5?
yeah
wait so ur oversampling no?
ken reckons 7-10 x pixel size
damn
im at 7 x pixel size now
Uranus tonight
very nice
check stellarium? or not recent enough if it changes
hmmm?
dada
cant find a wavelet which only touches the cassini details. Maybe i'll mask a ring in PS and darken it a touch
Why does your Saturn look desaturated
i think its because my camera driver decided to set the gain to max, so i used shorter exposures because im a numpty so dropped dynamic range.
Was autogain on if you were using fc
nah sharpcap, its just the slider displays the wrong value sometimes
if i click it it fixes it. I forgot about the issue because i havent done planetary in a little while
FC doenst like my cameras drivers much. It limits me to 480P downscaled.
SC lets me use the full 1080p
Oh
my camera is like $30 so im not complaning
nah, gonna get a 585 i think. I want something for wider FOV LI
Fair
best value maybe, but 585 is pretty close in value too, maybe better
actually my camera is best value

gets pics sorta close to the 224, but not worth the extra $200 or so.
That is fair
only complaints is the compressed output and basic drivers
alright i think i like this one
fuzzy in the right areas and sharp in the right ones
i lied
lied again, i hate wavelets
Making wavelets is annoying
fr
i just use defualt wavelets
way easier
one single frame
really good seeing
no processing i just took a random single frame
you can probably compare it to your images and figure out how close it was to mars on each day
assuming your view was from an infinite point
winjupos can def help
and JWST sees it in infrared
that was random
Bro what
pretty excited for tonight 
yeah I was gonna say, seeing is shite tonight
If its not a fast scope the secondary feels a bit weird. But primary is fine
joobider, first time getting GRS.
only 2 1/2 mins with 25% stack. manual tracking sucks. Gonna go for more when its a bit higher.
@knotty salmon touched in PS.
25%
where drizzle
still working on other data, in a hurry BC GRS going in an hour
@fading plume u gonna derotate?
no

looks like bad seeing ngl
1/5 supposedly. was like 3/5 by my standards
ngl i like yours more. better contrast and that red ring is gone
Thanks
plain sensor ofc
Petavius
very nice
do you check optimize image measurements for winjupos?
woah what happened ot my moon
i guess im b9 but moon and artificial direct light sources upgraded me to bortle 15

Yeah im plannjng something swank
Good luck, here the moon will be a little far from Uranus
Next occultation will be in 2023 for me
About 2 full moons
Which country and which latitude? I'm in Brazil -10° from the equator
This I could register without barlow
Yeah I think i can too
Yeah it’s similar for me too in Pennsylvania
since the moon is out there
tried to do some planetary for fun. Right is Saturn with my main canon 6D + 2x barlow, and the left one is using my guide camera (120 MM) without a barlow.
How tf do I get precise focus on Jupiter. I can turn my focuser a lonnng way and the focus changes but not enough for me to see a difference live. Maybe it will be better when motorised mount and focuser is made.
I focus till I see bands then wait on that focus for a bit in good seeing to see and slowly tweak till I get what I think is perfect
I use hocus focus on contrast detect mode and let my autofocuser deal with it 😄
I rack the focuser back and forth until its very sharp, have to do it multiple times until seeing lines up
Use the planet's moons to help focus, make them as small as possible focusing, I think this is the best method
Yeah, shadows on Jupiter can also be a good one
But that’s not always possible of course
All you need is a Tri-Bathinov mask. 🙂
Does anyone here plan on imaging the New Moon occultation of Venus?
I’ve never seen a moon shadow before I rlly want one in my image :v
Too close to the sun
Not possible to image?
No, for obvious reasons
mirror dosent need to be ded
Elongation 
damn
This is what, like 2°?
maybe a gigachad is gonna pull it off anyway
No
It’s just not really possible. Pinhole method might work but the angular diameter is so small at 10 arcsec anyway
Don’t think it could resolve it
Thinking about this gives me an idea, earth-glow image of a total solar eclipse
Nvm its already been done
do double moon transits on Jupiter happen? Like 2 or more moons in transit at the same time
Yup, I’ve seen one this season
In august
Not the best pic but they are super cool
Yeah that’d be insane
Row saturation at a glance,
@sharp ridge The ZWO 678MC arrived today. A nice person helped me with spot-on collimation of my 6" SCT. Please don't mind the dust bunny.
Turned out, with the new camera, there came a TON of clouds for next days.
I was able to take 2 videos of jupiter through a thin haze of clouds and only the brightest stars where visible at all.
Seeing 1/5 - others here would rate 1/10. 😄
Under same conditions i went for moon and took a 2-3 videos. All of them inbetween clouds and still through the hazy whatever it was.
nice, but make sure to use a closer focus (smaller circle) again to check
Also its shape should not change if you defocus the other direction
I have never seen a perfect 100% same inside / outside defocused airy disc on a SCT. 😄
Not in how-to videos, not in images that claim to be inside and outside def.
In the end i checked with Tri-Bathinov mask and it was spot on.
does the star method check for secondary or primary collimation?
I think only primary but I may be wrong
what is this and how do i kill it
ok well i killed it now as is broken
Primary for the rings, secondary gets hinted at by the shape but cant be used to correct
Use the crop function to make the sizes the same
U can use same capture size it would just make black space
also AS is having issues, part of me thinks its bad data, part of me thinks i don't know how to run as lol
convert it to avi or ser file in pipp
So if one direction is 100% perfect, but the other is a tad off -> how to deal with that?
Correcting the not perfect direction to nearly perfect results in not perfect anymore in the other direction. I can not get both 100% spot on now.
you split the difference 🙂
I do what? ( Sorry, not native english speaker. )

Like from 100% / 90% to 95% / 95% on the inside / outside defocus?
Tbh - my Celestron SCT is a trash can. It has so many issues, i am close to buying a new SCT ( 8" or 9.25" ).
why is it trash though? Normal Cx series or orange tube or 1945 SCT?
basically get it close so its even-ish on both sides of focus
Aug 9th
And you can’t get 4 of them due to orbital resonance between the inner 3. You can get 3 on the near side & the remaining one behind Jupiter & thus also nearby the planet though
just took some data of jupiter. Not sure if its my best but i tried
Secondary mirror holder is getting looooooooose every now and then. Guess you know what that means - free rotation and a tad movement in the corrector plate. I screw it on again, collimate again. Sometimes it lasts 1 year, sometimes 2-3 months.
Next issue - the tiny screw in the secondary mirror that goes into the tiny notch of the secondary mirror holder is like 0.2-0.3 mm smaller than the notch. Result is a tiny bit of rotation of the secondary in the holder IF the fixation ring gets lose ( what sometimes happens too ).
It is just like the whole secondary mirror holder part is a mess.
replace secondary and corrector plate then?
If i remember correctly, Schmidt plate and primary are matched.
You can get a new corrector plate BUT it is extremly expensive and it has to be proper fitted to the specific scope. Sooo the time i lose by sending it to Celestron, the money i put into without unkown outcome in terms of quality after that ...
In the end i can buy a new C6 and fingers crossed hope for the best . 😄
shaking/shake my head my head
Forgot when I asked 
smh my head
Found Uranus for the first time, great right ?
Wrong. Turns out my telescope was knocked out of collimation
Awesome
Good news, fixed collimation to the best of my ability, and im now shooting mars.
I will buy a laser collimator for perfect collimating tomorrow
Nice
they dont really work that great from what ive
heard
if you have the tiniest error in the secondary its gonna do the exact opposite
a cheshire
@knotty salmon is living proof of not using a laser collimator at any cost
Or a collimation cap 🙂
would a $20 cheshire be good enough (average brands like agena or svbont) or should i buy a $42 cheshire from farpoint. scope is f/6 and f/12 with barlow
you collimate without a barlow, the cheap one should be ok
Depends on your Newtonian. There are so many ways.
- Laser ( if you get a good one that is perfect -> i bought a made in Germany, made on order with a CNC machine - its perfect )
- Cheshire ( if you know how to use it and don't missunderstand what you see -> make sure to pick the correct Cheshire, 1.25" or 2", short or long version! its important! )
- Concenter ( pretty amazing device! ❤️ )
- Collimation Cap ( i hate it, i wear glasses )
- Ocal Pro ( well uhm... depends on your focuser tbh. - mine s*cks and OCAL is useless )
- any centered webcam with a lense attached ( CCTV / ultrawideangle lense like on ZWO cameras ) -> Sharpcap to liveview and use their circle overlays to collimate
Which version of cheshire? Short or long?
Depends on your Newtonian. I have a supercheap f4 Newt with a huge secondary. The 1.25" Cheshire didn't work out well. In the end, i went for a Concenter. There was no way to get a 2" Cheshire cheap OR by import incl. high toll / tax on it.
If you have a astro retailer in your country, a bigger one that actually knows what they are selling - ask them!
I do that to.
Or look for someone here that has a similar Newtonian.
Jupiter and Saturn
That Saturn has a lot of potential
For a single picture, you can see the band and divsion
Try taking a video and stacking, you will get way better results
Please do this
Do NOT underestimate the result of stacking
When I get my cassegrain and dob I will
Like atleast 10x more detail
What did u take that with
^
This is an understatement tbh
40cm Classical Cassegrain
6" refractor as sub scope
Is that your university telescope
Science Centre
I have a Sky Watcher 102mm Cassegrain and a Bresser Messier 6" tabletop dob otw
Science center of a university?
Or just a science center
Just
Ok ty
screw those cat toys
what do u use then?
DIY collimation cap
Yeah I can align my scope perfectly using the out of focus star method. I slap my laser on there and it’s wayyy out. If I collimate with just the laser I can see it’s out of collimation if I try to use it visual.
alwasy
39 m/s 
clouds form in slower stable air
Agreedable
?
my first pictures of saturn, i am gonna retry tonight and hopefully get a clearer image
just curious, what ISO speeds do you guys use for planetary imaging? and how many exposures do you try to get?
I just record the planet moving across the screen so that a couple times, then import to you computer and stack, then process
awesome, thank you!
Jups and Ganymede

just checked my scope's collimation.... it was not good at all
hopefully i'll get some better images tonight
Same they never seem to happen when Jupiter is visible from my garden
collimation 
tis in though. maybe camera is outta whack
70mm frac 
significant trolling
Ok we get it, your great at planetary. Lol
well well u lil shit ❤️ 😄
needs to find some good stuff to troll too
searches
meh
C11 comparison 🧌
this year?
Nah sadly not. Mars is not in my view. 😦
ok as its tilt is not this years one, looks pogg tho
this is mars right now in my view
capture right from .ser video
it is very low on horizon, directly next / slight above a house ( city center ) and our nightsky has a weird thin haze layer.
i can basically see planets and brightest stars through that haze. its here every night.
situation is right now that i can barely see 10 stars in southern sky.
can someone help me process my jupiter's data?
thats why i was happy with that image through the haze with the new 678MC. 😄
p l e a s e
flossy whats up? needs some help here via voice in discord? what source? mono with filter? color camera?
yes sure
uhhh i use a phone camera 💀
Best I could get
can you give me 5 mins
sure
@sharp ridge I had a nice conversation btw. about camera, pixel size and my "location situation". 🙂
Result: MORE APERTURE 😄
@jolly ice Thats all i can do.
The histogram initally is not that good. Not sure uf Jupiter was perfectly centered in the whole recording ( negativ impact from the eyepiece on the recording can happen ).
Eye piece projection?
How horrible is it with a decent eyepiece like a tv 5mm radian?
Basically I want to have a go at planetary but I don’t have a Barlow
EP projection with a really good eyepiece is alright. You can make a Barlow easily with a zoom lens if you have one.
Do you have to rotate the secondary mirror during collimation?
usually to some small amount
that’s good for us west aussies
sometimes it reaches 300km/h
My first picture of jupiter! gonna go back out and get a longer video and retry 🙂
thank you !
Remember, don’t record for longer than 5 mins or so
@somber stratus how bright is the ISS? I think it’s above Saturn yeah? So Jupiter settings?
According to the local Facebook group tonight’s gonna be a bright pass or something if that happens
But then it’s fast and I’m gonna be hand tracking so like 1ms or lower subs and just get my gain to Jupiter level or something
ISS is almost as bright as jupiter
Alright
I do have a couple zoom lenses but they’re all rather expensive
Not exactly worth taking apart for a $50 Barlow
ISS brighter than jupiter
Venus settings
It’s bright bright
0.2-0.3ms is preferred
What setting do you guys use on Jupiter? ( @sharp ridge )
F600 moment
@sharp ridge can you do the FL measurement thing? 2.9um 1200mm base FL.
4000mm fl
thanks mate
Ok! 🙂 The 678MC for me needs 12.5ms and Gain 140 with the 6".
Which cam do you use?
I hope you can sort out the issue with the screw! Any solution in sight?
I have ordered bobs knobs but idk when they would arrive, rn we are trying to loosen the screw and temporary use the other 2 screws to control collimation but no luck so far
may take weeks to month + to get it fixed
I use 10ms and 280 gain
@somber stratus do you have a rec for a planetary camera, budget like $300 usd? i was thinking of a mars-c but idrk
its an untracked 8 inch dob if thats important
do you have a picture of the screws
Did you look into to reverse-screw-removal stuff?
The ones i sent you.
Ye i told all of these to my parents and let them decide on a plan cuz they have good experience
First processed image of Barbados by Damian
Damian Peach is an astrophotography monster
All 4 Galilean moons pretty close to Jupiter tonight!
Wow, what scope was used?
Probably 1m Chilescope
C14
Oh wow
C14HD with Saturn M-SQR.
Sheeesh
What is the reason Mars requires a shorter exposure time? Because of the size?
surface brightness and also it gets affected by seeing more i find
@sharp ridge I found a shop that has an ADC available! 😄 I finally get an ADC!
Ye Mars-C is the best for that budget
Ok thanks 👍
Like Ken said. It’s bright & small
What does full well mean? I'm trying to compare my ASI385MC to the Mars-C. It looks like my camera has larger 3.75um pixels, but much lower 18,700e full well
Full well is how many photons each pixel can detect before the image becomes overexposed. It’s kind of a useless parameter for planetary & is highly dependent on pixel size
Really is irrelevant to planetary
Bc you just lower the gain/exposure if it’s overexposed
Is larger pixel size advantageous for planetary? Is 3.75 going to be better in some way than 2.9?
Not really
Wouldn't it mean lower gain and for that reason less noise?
Also in PIPP do you guys always stretch the histogram white point to 75% and the black point to 0%
My processing of the most recent files made available on Damian Peach's patreon
Jupiter, Sep 19th, 2022 (set 8)
Object: Jupiter
Telescope: C14 Edge HD
Camera: PlayerOne Uranus-C
Seeing/Trans: Pickering 8-9/10. Trans good - slight haze.
How did you sharpen
Looks like decon-ish
Or is that just SCT moment
yeah but what did you do in Astro Surface & Registax specifically
wavelets? deconvolution?
First I use the wavelets in astrosurface, de-rotate and then adjust the RGB balance in registrax
this enough overexposure for ISS?
0.2ms 30 gain
Just realised I’m an idiot. I want Jupiter underexposed
donut
Yes
Doughnut
grs was from lastnight the other was from about 3 nights ago
oof my highlights on the top ill fix in a bit
Wow, very nice! Lots of details!
I've been playing with my new camera and using AstroSurface for stacking. Very happy with how this is looking! Lots of wispy swirls and such! What do you guys think?
Meade LX200GPS 10"
ZWO ASI462MC
Teleview 2.5x Barlow
ZWO ADC
UV/IR Filter
Shutter=5.964ms
Gain=293 (48%)
FPS (avg.)=158
Frames captured=14258
Top 77% Stacked
Firecapture > AstroSurface > Registax
Has to be one of my fav lunar shots nice details and it was low i wamma shoot it when its at its peak but I have school or work stupid life lol
how did you pull the hues out?
just saturation?
Skymax 102 Azgti Mount Svbony 305 pro. No Barlow, No Filter. 500 Stacked
first try ever on Mars
tried to get rid of the blue hue
Same Setup. Second Attempt on Jupiter

unfortnatly the pics of saturn are a complete f**** for some reason they all became way to dark
is it possible to put a dark png behind it?
a little less f**** up
all are around 500 stacked and the same set up
tried to get the moons with a nd filter boosted the reinforcment pretty high
@somber stratus @sharp ridge hows this exposure look for ISS?





