#Dobsonian Astrophotography
1 messages · Page 4 of 1
Any idea if this guy ships overseas
I don't know, I'll ask him tomorrow if you want
That would be great, thanks 
Alright I'll keep you in touch!
Yep, his work flow is pretty convincing https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RtwYDuN-j54&feature=youtu.be
This is my new design for equatorial platforms. They have a lot of useful function, which you can see in the video.
I developed 3 types from 40 to 55° northern latitude.
From now it can be ordered. For more info check this:
https://tms-astro.webnode.hu/
Now we just have to wait for the results to see how good it actually is!
Wait so you’re gonna get the normal one? Not the photographic version?
I don't have the money 
But the normal version is enough for my current needs (kinda lucky imaging with a pretty small dob)
I'll upgrade it to the photographic one later but now I'll stick with this one
People with similar scopes to mine managed to get more than 10s subs pretty easily so it's already pretty good
What fl?
I don't remember
Let me check
Also looking at the snr profile with my camera and gear doing more than ~15s subs doesn't really have any improvement except for stacking speed
@frozen flint here's one at 545mm, not exactly the one I was thinking of but I can't find it back
Dobson Flextube 254 on a TMS-astro EQ platform
Focal length of 545mm (focal reduced 0.45x)
Tests with exposure 2s, 4s, 8s and 12s
And keep in mind its only the second time the dude "polar aligned"
Oh and it's with a 10 inch
Idk how worth it it would be at 1500mm like my scope tbh
I think I can stop speculating and actually wait for the results when I'll have mine lol
I think the drift isn't a problem, it basically depends on build quality of the problem (so no problem here) and polar alignement which can always be I'm probed, the issue is periodic error and it's hard to see on heavily compressed videos
Also I'll do some tests with my Barlow (at 1950mm +3.75 pixel size), even if the stars will be bigger because of the f ratio it still can give you an idea
Now I have to go to sleep 😅 school tomorrow
Sounds great, looking forward to your results! Very curious to see what it’ll bring
Since I’m still new to all of this, I’m a little confused on what exactly it does. Is it simply a SWSA for dobs? How would you polar align something that low to the ground?
I guess in way it's a swsa for dob yeah, basically its a platform rotating around the polar axis on which you put your dob
You can't really polar align with a polar finder so you simply point it north with a compass, adjust the inclinaison with a level (each platform is made for a specific range of latitude), then you fine tune it with whichever method you prefer
Sharcap polar alignement help feature for example, or this :
Where does he manufacture these mounts?
I might be interested in one but I reside in Canada
Here the other method
He's in Hungary but idk if he ships oversea
I'll ask him today
But I think you should find other offers in north america
Would you know where I could find these offers?
Any keywords that I need to put in my search engine?
Hungary is nice because i live near it in Austria.
Equatorial platform united states /Canada maybe?
Quick Eagle Nebula just before sunrise on March 22. 360x1 sec exposures (6 minutes total)
Awesome shot
Thanks! Hoping to get a good hour of data on it next time!
Just gotta wait for summer time
Same, I got only like 2 minutes of data on my first attempt and was surprised at the amount of signal
Really awesome target
Lagoon Nebula just now
Only half of the data because the software can’t align the rest of it
Which means this is only like 1 minute integration
@high hamlet and @inner stone he answered!
So he can ship oversea and for 25€ you can buy additional segments to make the platform work at different set of latitudes
Awesome, thanks man
Very nice
Hi , i have a 8inch dob f/5.9 (untracked) , i currently use my phone camera with a 25mm eyepiece , can someone teach me how to stack images like which app to use and how long should be the exposures?
Siril or Dss is good for stacking as a beginner (and also more experienced) but u would really recommend you to get a astro camera or just a 40€ used Dlsr. Because with the phone through the eyepiece you won't get good pictures.
I have an old d60 lying around will it be good ?
I used a D60 so i do think so
Ok then i have to buy a t ring and adapter is there any difference between the 1.25inch and 2inch t adapter?
Yes the 1.25 inch adapter is 1.25 inch and the 2 inch adapter is 2 inch
damn where can I get a used DSLR for 40 euros (or preferably CAD)?
even used ones are pricey
if you're doing phone AP with an untracked telescope i recommend you use an app called motion cam for imaging , it will save you imaging time but it will add processing time. for stacking you're going to need a pc or laptop.
if you want to take calibration frames you can also use motion cam or one called deepskycamera which has presets for darks,flats and bias frames.
for me DSS doesn't really work because of how dark my frames are so i use sequator, which is overall worse but it actually stacks all my images
and for post processing i use siril and starnet plugin
Got a Nikon D60 for 35 A D40 for 40 and a D3100 for 35
nonono dont get a d3100
please
you could get a canon t2i or t3i for 40
Why not
The only problem i have that it only alows 30s subs
noise soup
Wouldn't say that for the price, this is only 25min
With your dob?
my d3100 is way noisier
No this was tracked
T3i for 40? At that price things get risky considering most used t3i's on ebay are around 90 to 200 easily.
You can always get lucky, but you just gotta watch out when you find these newer DSLRs for such cheap prices.
My 15yr old Canon XSi was still 50+ USD and that was a pretty dam lucky deal at the time (close to a year ago)
hey everyone, I have a heritage 150p and want to take untracked photos of DSOs (I was thrilled by @mossy glen and his results). Thing is, I've been told in the ask_a_nerd thread that shooting with a DSLR is probably a no-go, because I can't get enough info in my short exposures. They suggested ASI 224 as a viable option and I found one in ebay for about 200€. Just thought I'd ask here again before committing to a purchase!
Tbh I don't think the asi224mc is really ideal if you want to use it for dso
It's a planetary cam with a tiny fov, small pixels and I think it has amp glow
For some more money you could buy a uranus-c (imx585). It's also a planetary cam but compared to the 224 the fov is huge and it has way less noise and no amp glow
The asi585mc has the same sensor as the uranus-c but the uranus-c is just a little bit better for the same price
Yep the uranus c (if you can afford it) is definitely better but 224mc can do the work too (it's the one I use so..)
Correction: I think the amp glow issue in the 224mc was fixed, so all units produced after April 2016 won't have amp glow
Point still stands though, imx585 will be a better experience to do dso with than the 224mc
Im not sure, mine has amp glow (even if it's not too strong) and I ordered it in 2022
Nevermind then skip the 224
Also the uranus c can be upgraded with the ACS
Yes, also good for dso
hmmm the uranus-c is kinda out of budget tho, as it is 2x the price
And what if you save a little bit longer?
Nah the 224 is €200 new too
Depends where you live
It's 300€ here 
But if you can wait, the uranus is really better
Btw I'll upgrade to the uranus c this year
Damn
I just looked on zwo's website
Inflation 
It's probably more expensive here too if I look at a Dutch retailer
yeaah inflation is crazy and I just got started with this hobby lol
It's just that I'm really thrilled and right now I can't really shoot anything else than maybe M42 with my scope
So I tend to be somewhat impatient
But you're probably right, even though I can't even imagine getting results like @mossy glen from my scope lol
Seen your m42 result I think you have a little more targets accessible
Give it some time and you probably will :), maybe even better (when you'll have the camera at least)
But don't worry if your first results are not as good as excepted, it takes some time
(first vs last pic)
Is it tracked or untracked?
thx man!
targets like what?
I tried M51 the other night and it was an absolute fail
I had 1 useful image/750 approximately
Maybe it was that bad because it was windy, but still
those are untracked I believe 😄
Both untracked!
Yep wind doesn't help and m51 is a quite hard target because there's almost no bright stars around to align
I was thinking of targets like lagoon, trifid, dumbell maybe even omega? and I'm not sure but maybe m81/m82
M82 is brighter so it's easier
hmmm seems that M82 then is probably my best shot, unfortunately I can't stay up too late because of work 😥
omg thats so cool
Yeah and it's only going to become worse unfortunately...
But it also means better weather and more targets!
better weather is a huge w honestly. One of the few good things of living in Greece ig 😂
amazing job
I can't believe that's untracked
you're literally on another level
can't wait to see what you produce with a tracked setup
M87 with a vague capture of the black hole plasma jet
6” dob and Mars-c untracked. Like 5 minutes data with 68% moon at 70deg altitude
How different would such an image look with an 8 inch dob?
More light and detail
Vankey Cellphone Telescope Adapter Mount, Compatible with Binocular, Monocular, Astronomical Telescope, Spotting Scope, Microscope, Fits iPhone, Samsung, and More - Bluesky V1, Regular Size : Amazon.ca: Electronics
Will this fit tightly on my Starfield 8 inch dob?
Huge

in contrast, Tong from Hubble optics still no email lmfao
Not even a confirmation?
hype
I was gonna get my dob today but the ice storm in QC closed my local astronomy store

Rip
Finally
Epic
Cat’s Eye nebula this morn
How noticeable is coma at f/5 with a small sensor like the asi462?
I don't think it's very noticeable
I never actually tested it as I have 224's smaller sensor but my guess is it's good until ~ uranus c's sensor
The coma is visible with uranus's sensor but I believe it's ok
If you have a parabolical mirror of course, if it's spherical good luck 
Who tf uses sphericals for imaging 💀
Aight
@viscid pagoda dang fr im prob going to order the 18 soon how is dude still in working if he takes for every to reply. Im spending almost 10k I would want you to take 5 mins to email me
Cigar Galaxy tonite
field rotation fr
Pain
Whirlpool, stars suck bc I was doing slightly too long of exposures
and field rotation
I finally got my dobsonian 
question, can I see M51 in real time with 8 inch dob?
Yes you can see it with binoculars
even from a B9 location?
They might be faint. The best way to test this is to try
I can clearly see the 2 cores and guess it's global shape with my 5 inch
Bortle 4 though
With my 16" i can see some nice spiral structure in M51
And the platform is ordered! I'm so happy rn 
so I'm having some trouble with my new dob
I'm trying to get my finder scope to align with what I see in the eyepiece but everything is blurry, fidgeting with the 2 speed focuser didn't fix it either
anyone know what I'm missing?
oh and I was trying to align using a pole on the roof of my neighbor's house
could it be that since I was doing it indoors the glass made everything blurry?
That and since it’s your neighbour’s house it sounds like it isn’t very far away
You want to focus on something at least a few hundred meters away
Way too close
Thanks for the input
Yw
You could try aligning on the moon if it’s up or Polaris if it’s clear
Polaris doesn’t move
Or you’ll have to find something that’s far enough away
I’ll try It with Polaris tonight
Are you're images manually tracked?
Yup
Oh cool
Oh! And what software do you use when stacking planets?
Autostakkert, I use the same for dso even tho it probably isn’t ideal
Ah i see i see thanks!!!
Oh and btw what accesories do you suggest with the dob
Like eyepieces and barlows etc
I use a 25mm eyepiece, it’s pretty good for dso observing. And then for planetary I just slap on the 3x
The 25mm is the only eyepiece I’ve owned since I’ve had my dob, never felt the need to get anything else tbh
Nice wide fov, and then the Barlow lets you get close in on the planets
I see
Where did you buy the 3x barlow
Orion is it?
I see
Yup, I use the Orion TriMag 3x
Sombrero and Needle galaxies tonight. Needle is like 3min data and sombrero like 10
@high hamlet sorry to bother but do you have any tips on visually seeing M51 with an 8 inch dob? I'm trying to locate the galaxies first but I'm having a difficult time doing so. Can binocs help with star hopping?
It isn’t the most contrasty dso visually, so darker skies would help a lot. Binos might help, but I’d recommend using a skymap app like SkyGuide or stellarium
Visually it looks like two fuzzy stars
What i usually do is start with this magnitude 4.6 star and just move in a somewhat straight line at low magnification
I live in a B9 location, even so can I still find it or should I look for brighter DSOs?
dont you get star trailing?
Probably worth trying brighter ones, like planetary nebulae are excellent from light polluted areas
My exposures are around 1/5s, so it isn’t that bad
In terms of galaxies, Bode’s and Cigar are super bright so you should try those
U use phone or dslr?
Ahh im currently using my phone
I have a dslr but its having issues with backfocus
Phone AP is rough
Yeah many newtonians have those issues, mine can’t reach focus with my dslr either
Its ok for planetary but for deep sky its very bad
I used my phone for planetary during the 2021 season, it was ok
Never tried dso because I just couldn’t take long exposures with the Samsung camera I had at the time
Only dso i was able to get with my phone was the orion nebula and m13
I was thinking of getting a webcam as well, what webcam would you recommend for an 8 inch dob?
My #1 recommendation would be the PlayerOne Uranus-C
High fps, nice wide sensor which makes it manageable for untracked
Yay
It's heeere!
I'll test it as soon as the weather is ok and I'm home (hopefully Monday)
Hype hype hype
Yep
Can't wait to see your results with it
You can be sure I'll write a way to detailed report about it ^^
My first targets will be m51 and m83 btw
hello everyone , im getting a ten inch dob for my birthday and i have a nikon d3000 , would the nikon be able to get some good images with that?? im new to the hobby btw so sorry if i make any mistakes
Hi! Do you have a tracking system (like goto or some kind of equatorial mount?)?
i wont be stacking any images to start ill just be doing long exposure images if my camera can do that . and also with my phone lol
hey , i dont no.
if i do get one idk which one it would be as im new to astronomy and astrophotography so im a newbie lol
im just getting the dob itself
Unfortunately it's quite hard to take pictures without it; it's not impossible but requires some dedication 😄
yeah i bet . is a goto mount where it follows the object through the sky? or just takes me to it
Planetary and moon can be good without tracking, but dso is a huge challenge
You're really limited by exposure lenght, with my 5 inch at 650mm I can't take frames longer than ~300ms
so i dont have to find it myself?
Yeah exactly
ah right
It can be both!
ohh right , are you able to recommend me one that could hold and sustain the dobs weight?
Even if you're dob doesn't come with one, you usually have solution to add a goto system later
i have a laptop and a camera i just need to learn how to stack images and learn how to do it all in general really
Sorry I don't know that much about Goto mounts but I'm sure someone here will recommend you something
ah okay thankyou
With a little practice you probably won’t need one after a bit
yeah maybe . i would like on in the future tho . i want to produce the best i can as i would love to be able to take amazing pictures of DSO'S
one8
one******
but a goto mount follows and object through the sky allowing u to take loads of long exposure images yes ??
but it does it itself
Yes, but you can also get a basic equatorial platform for cheaper (doesn’t take you to targets, but still tracks the sky)
oh right
So you still need to find them manually but can take long exposures
yeah so if i found m31 for example then how would i make it follow it?
Using just a goto dob mount still won't allow you to take very long exposures because field rotation
ah right
You'd need an actual equatorial mount for which it's not really practical to mount a dob Newt on because they're heavy, or you'd need an equatorial platform like Poivre mentioned but that one doesn't find the object for you
You have to point it at the object yourself, it'll just track
ahh i see , how would i make it track? is there a button or is it more complicated
yeah
Not 100% sure how they work in practice but in short you just align it to North
Also level it as perfectly as possible
@mossy glen probably knows more
right i see, do you know one that would fit the dob?
Poivre's is from TMS astro and they sell two sizes I think
ah okay . ill try find one that would but finding one for a tench inch might be hard
ten
TMS Astro makes sizes big enough for a 16" I believe
But if you don't have the dob yet I wouldn't worry about tracking let alone equatorial tracking yet tbh
Make sure you learn how to use the dob at all first
oh yeah i dont have it now im getting it June 4th is my birthday , maybe for christmas if ive got the proper hang of it ill get one
Yeah
but even without tracking and finding the object just me doing it by hand ill be able to get some decent pics?
I used my dob untracked for a year before getting a tracked dob
DSO with a dslr untracked won't be very viable because dslrs are noisy and you'd have to take so many frames that your shutter will die
I used to have a 6"
But for planetary you could get some good results, especially with a dedicated planetary cam
ah right
nikon d3000 ? any good
Sure
for both dsos and planetery ? or just planetary
i just wanna be able to see things yk like galaxies and even nebulas , idc about the detail but just to see them would be cool
like faint details
yeah thats good
let me try check
idk how to check so much random shit coming up
im from kent if that helps
That's pretty high, so make sure that when you are observing your dob is in the shadow
Don't observe while standing under a lightpole or something
yeah when i do it its in my back garden all lights off and i live in a close so its fairly good
Yeah good
They are quite big and heavy
My current 12" dob I have is just shy from being as tall as me when pointing at zenith
Now you can find out about how tall I am
ah right im 5'9 lmao so
I'm about 179cm or something
Not that tall for a Dutchie, but then again I'm only half Dutch soo
i hope ill be able to see through the eyepiece lol
ahh yea
Ohh don't worry you will
It's not like 2 meters tall or something
will i be able to see galaxies and just dsos in general through the eye piece?
oh good
And you'll rarely observe objects that are right at zenith I reckon
So it won't be pointing straight up all the time
sorry if i ask stupid questions but i dont know anything about scopes really
ah ok good
Npnp
will i be able to see galaxies and just dsos in general through the eye piece?
or only when i take photos?
Visually they'll generally just look like faint smudges
Don't expect any colourful views like you see in the pictures
still that will be amazing to me to see
oh ik i wont see it like that but to even see a slight detail in a galaxy is crazy to me
Also you have to let your eyes get properly dark adjusted so don't look at any lights or your phone for a while before observing
yeah
And allow your scope to get acclimated so don't observe from inside through a window, place it ouside about at least 30 minutes but probably preferably an hour before actually observing
ill be taking pics of galaxies all the time they're my fav thing
yh i always do outside but ty for the tips
You could try with your dslr but like I said it's not really viable with that
yeah ill try taking a few , would it work better with an iphone 12 on a phone mount with the long exposure feature?
obvs connected to the scope
Probably worse if you ask me
Because you'll have to shoot through an eyepiece which.. ew
Only upside is you won't have a shutter which'll die after having to take 1,000,000 frames
yeah , whats my best bet at pictures then?
at first i wont even be editing them idk if people do do that
ill just be using the short exposure image lol
With a dslr? Lunar would be the easiest and probably give you the best results
no like taking pics of anything ?
This was with my 6” and a dslr
like what to use and how to use it or just the camera and phone through the lens
Untracked dob, dslr and dso are not a good combination
You can try but if you can spare a little money at least get an astrocam if you're gonna do untracked dso
silly question but an astrocam is a camera literally made for astrophotography i take it?
Correct
do u have one to recommend that would be good for me and the dob?
And there are many different kinds, for dso and planetary they are different specialties. But there are some astrocams that are a little more versatile and can do a bit of both
Like the IMX585 (ZWO asi585mc and Player One Uranus-C)
Many people in this server use that one
ahh ty , is this dso or planetary based?
The dslr, you could still take planetary pictures with it but it's never gonna come close to what you could be able to get a with a planetary cam most likely
yeah true
IMX585 is actually a planetary camera but it works quite well for dso too
Well the IMX585 is the sensor actually but you get what I mean
I hope
ah ok ty , r u able to recommend a camera just for dso?
kinda but dw explaining ill watch a yt vid
For your setup, untracked dob? IMX585
ty
can u summarise how they work plz?
Not rn lol sorry
okay no problem , i found that uranus-c u was talking about
Good
uranus c is for both dso and planetary u said?
It's for planetary
ohh ok
It's not amazing for dso, it's just good
Good luck
thankyou
quick question. I have a dobsonian 200p and i am trying to figure out how i can attach my camera with a telescope lens on it. now i only connect the camera with a t-ring and for planetary or really deep sky stuff they seem pretty small because the magnification is equivalent to a 25mm or 30mm lens
i am asking here because its the dobsonian group
You can’t attach a dslr to a telescope with a lens on the camera
The telescope acts as a lens
It’s like putting a lens on a lens
im not talking about the camera lenses
the telescope ones
i think there is some kind of adapter tube that lets you fits the lenses in between the camera and the telescope
What brand is your dob
The 2” - 1.25” adapter has a thread you should be able to attach the t-ring to
Screw the 1.25” adapter off. It should be on there by threads
i unscrew it and attach it to the t-ring which i attach to my camera
Yes
The t-ring should have a thread too
But what do you mean telescope lens
Eyepiece?
yes
You’re not gonna need an eyepiece if you’re gonna attach the dslr
i need to zoom in more for certain objects
You put the dslr where you’d normally put an eyepiece; in the focuser
and the camera's resolution isnt enough
Eyepieces don’t work like that
Or you’re gonna need something else to be able to do that
Or get a barlow lens
i have a 2x barlow but i dont know how to attach it to the camera as well
If it’s one of those cheap Celestron ones it should have a t-thread as well, otherwise you’re gonna need a nosepiece to thread onto your t-ring, and you can insert that into the barlow
ok i think i found a way to do it
thanks man
I may have not found a way to do it
These are the adapters i have
The right ring attaches to the camera and the left ring attaches to the right and then to the telescope
Like this
Looks like your barlow doesn’t have a t-thread
Can’t tell but I’m like 97% sure
So you’ll need a nosepiece for that
Thats how i put it together but i wanted to know if i can use an eyepiece or a barlow with the things i already have
Thanks again
Can you get focus with your dslr without barlow?
Should be possible
I was able to reach focus with both the skywatcher dobs I’ve owned
With my dslr
focus isnt the problem. Zooming is the problem because my camera isnt high resolution to clearly see for example saturn
It copes pretty well with moon, M42 and that stuff
But i think i will have to get an adittional adapter to mount in eyepieces too
Spend your money on an astrocam and you’re good
Well, still need the barlow
But image quality is gonna be way better
yeah thats the prob
Get the barlow, don’t waste your money on something to mount your eyepieces to the camera
Quality won’t be good and your never gonna use them again
Just get the barlow to use your dslr with and get an astrocam later down the line
i plan on buying an eq mount for the telescope to shoot longer exposures in the near future but the price is a prob
Idk why but i cannot reach focus with my dob (gso)
Yeah it’s different between dobs obvs but with my Skywatcher dobs so far I was always able to reach focus
I had a few minutes to quickly test it before clouds came in
I didn't understand at first because when I switched it on, stars were moving 2 times faster... Then I realized I was aiming the south and not north 
Yeah it seems pretty good
Epic
With a simple rough north alignement and level ajustement I couldn't see any movement at 100x mag
Awesome, hyped to see what imaging will be like
Yep me too haha
Should I just cough up the extra 1.5k+ and get a goto kit for my 8" flextube?
M16 from last night/morning (taken during sunrise), I think this is my sharpest yet. 180x1 second exposures with a 10" Goto Dob and Uranus-C. Also left is without denoise and right is using IAN deniose from G'Mic QT plugin for GIMP
What do you want goto for? Ease of use, planetary ap or DSOs?
(by ease of use I mean goto pointing)
I wouldn't do it cuz it's only an 8"
Overpriced af
Is it possible to use an ADC without a barlow? I've tried so many different ways, with extension tubes and without no success so far.
I'm pretty sure it is possible but I don't have one so I can't help you
Yeah for 1.5k you can almost get an eq6r
can anyone send their pics with their 10” dob that they have please ?
my dob is collapsible so I can't.
First test of the platform last night... And it's above my expectations 😄
With a really rough polar alignement (I just approximately leveled it and kinda pointed north), after I aligned it towards north and not south (yeah I did that
) and I switched the speed buttons off on off instead of on off on(because yeah I'm stupid) , it worked pretty dam well
First test was a star in the corner of the field at 200x mag and I couldn't see any movement for a few minutes
I tried some lunar imaging through clouds at 1950mm and I didn't had to reframe at all, the drift was really slow
Only problem is periodic error, it seems quite important but I think it's made worse by the fact the platform is made for loads way heavier than my small dob so I'll try adding some weight
Anyway I'll continue my testings and share it with you guys
Share images 
You can still mod a collapsible to fit on a mount
But also like it’s only an 8” it’s not worth spending 1.5k on it
You can get a solid tube 8” and a heq5 for 1.5k
And have a solid imaging system
1.5k buys you a platform for a 16”
Hmmmmm
Through clouds, bad seeing, bad collimation (I havn't collimated the secondary since last year and the primary since this new year
)so I think it's not that bad
(5inch at 1950mm/f15)
I'll share a video of the tracking soon, when I'll have better wifi (I'm on 250 kbps
)
Are there any tutorial on how to use dobsonian telescope
Lookin good
I’m more curious about its dso performance tho
https://youtu.be/WxO3bfE4nBY yeah you can find them by typing how to use a dobsonian telescope but I did it for u
This video is aimed at new astronomers who need some help on getting started or returning astronomers who may have forgotten how to use a dobsonian telescope. So if you are of the latter, this is going to be a good refresher.
- Inspect & Assemble Telescope
- Collimate Telescope
- Align Finder Scope
- Observe Through Finder Scope
- Observe...
Yeah sure but with the clouds and the moon it's not going to be soon :/
Fair
With a quick test about 4/5 of my 1 sec subs were sharp enough and up to ~8sec subs were good when there was no periodic error
Honestly, seeing the performances with a 30sec polar alignement I'm really not worried about the drift, periodic error is the only issue but I'll have to do a lot of testing to know if it really is a problem
Oh yeah
Ngl what I appreciate the most isn't sub lenght but simply not having to reframe every minute lol
It's much easier wether it be for acquisition, targeting or processing so I'm finally able to start several dozens of hours projects 
Oh ye I feel you
Going from a 6” dob untracked to a goto dob
Changed my whole life dude, it made me a different person
i must join you on the light side
Yeah I can imagine that
Oh I'll also allow me to start my exoplanet detection projects
💀
Why is it Mono with the Uranus C
there's a mono version of it
That was the red channel I believe
Nah there’s not
i think tonight ill try imaging eagle neb with the dob
Idk why the bottom left panel is so different from the rest
And I don't know how I managed to screw the colors lol
Which scope did u use?
How do you guys handle field Rotation, when imaging the moon?
field rotation shouldnt be a problem at all?
exposure time is short
I mean when stacking
stackers should be advanced enough for field rotation not to really matter
i think so at least, not sure how autostakkert is
Autostakkert does not account for field rotation
It has an option where you can make it account for it but it requires you to input a bunch of values like time and ra/dec and stuff and it’s quite complicated
My lunar recordings are never long enough for field rotation to show
Would m63s script work on moon?
I believe it does yes
what camera do you recomend for planetary imaigning? max price 350dollars
You may find an uranus c on sales for this price, depends on your country's prices
It's really the best option available under ~500$
uranus c is too expensive in my country
If its really out of budget it will depend on some factors such as are you tracked and your scopes size
I have dobson 8" untracked
Uranus c is only 50 dollars more
I know but is out of my budget
Then imx462
Mars c
Neptune c II is pretty good too
It's the imx464, same pixel size as 462 but double the resolution
save up
Spending a bit more gets you much more camera
Definitely get the Uranus
Wait is the Uranus-C a webcam or a camera?
A webcam is a camera
What
Is asi 224mc good ?
can I attach usb 3.0 to clasic usb?
Your computer needs to be usb3.0
Yes but you’ll get like 1 fps
But in not high Resolution
Pillars, 1260 x 1 second exposures with 10" GoTo Dob and Uranus-C
Nice nice. What sensor does that camera run I’ve seen a lot of images w them
Still using my 120mc-s from 2019 💀
Imx585
a server that im in is selling the touptek ver thats fan cooled for 375
any tips on dobsonian astrophotography?
Short subs, hand track as best you can.
If hand tracking planets/ moon , rotate the camera so that it drifts completely horizontally (temporarily). You’ll only have to push your dob in one direction until field rotation kicks in too much and you’ll have to adjust. And then set a crop or region of interest with capture software. Less resolution from crop means you can capture at a higher frame rate if optics speed and object allows for it.
Hey guys, just wanted to say my weather is absolutely terrible that's why I'm not very active


Guys what do you think about the bresser messier 254mm dobson
i might buy a 10" dob for my 3rd scope lol
Some people recommend it because of its large bearings. But for Astrophotography it isn't ideal
Sooo I have decided to make a dob mount for my telescope how should I make it?
is dob astrophotography hard?
getting a classic 200p (hopefully) soon
Is that ur first scope?
Over all that scope is good
yes
@stiff eagle is there anything not good about the scope?
Nope
This video is aimed at new astronomers who need some help on getting started or returning astronomers who may have forgotten how to use a dobsonian telescope. So if you are of the latter, this is going to be a good refresher.
- Inspect & Assemble Telescope
- Collimate Telescope
- Align Finder Scope
- Observe Through Finder Scope
- Observe...
And don't worry about the collimation
Why not
Dobs rule (2x barlow on left, native on right)
M101 and supernova 2023ixf type II
Dobson 15", Player One Poseidon C (2600c), equatorial plateform, baader coma corrector
2000 x 1s , 33min at all
Siril (stacking, alignment, histo), PixInsight (BlurXT, NoiseXT), the Gimp (lumi, sat)
1st light with my "new vintage" Dobson ! Lots of things to improve of course :
- marching noise due to an average polar alignment and no dithering like,
- vignetting, because of a 1.25" filter while a 36mm is adiced on aps-c and the OAG shadow (OAG even not used yet !)
- certainly not a good collimation as a 1st... will improve on it !
How many secs per exposure?
1 second 🙂
Aight
Im gonna have the opportunity to shoot under bortle 3 with a 10” and an eq platform and a 462mc this summer, I wonder if I should do native or use my 3x
I'm not sure about a 3x image brightness will decrease dramatically.. But under B3 and near perfect tracking it's sure possible. I would only go for a barlow for brighter objects/smaller objects to resolve them a bit more
I was thinking that AS3 could be used for stacking instead of DSS since the star registration is pretty bad. But I could only imagine it would work well without field rotation or if you shoot a bunch of videos 2 mins in length (like planetary)
Yeah I’ll probably be only imaging planetary nebulae anyways
I used livestacking though with FWHM filter, it seems to work well. With great tracking I think its perfect
but since you're using an platform, I don't think you'll be limited to sub time
Astrosurface works pretty well
Yeah it works wellish, but at higher FL (with barlows) the stars become huge especially when they're brighter, sometimes even AstroSurface doens't even detect them well
Got this with an 8” in bortle 8 with 13 minutes if data
What do you do for walking noise?
Neat, that one is pretty difficult lol
I was thinking maybe rotating the cam in between captures
I get some terribly ugly noise in my dso pics too
For walking noise, I honestly just hope that its not too bad in the final stack, good tracking helps. Sometimes if I do multi-night sessions I would flip my camera 180 to cancel it out a bit. But rotating it between captures seems to work well too. It's pretty doable to smoothen the walking noise in PP too
I honestly struggle more with banding
What’s banding
i'm trying to find a picture where it's bad
hold on
this is pretty stretched
but you see the vertical lines, those are banding
Siril has banding reduction, it's helpful but doesn't completely get rid of it
also I tihnk it's more noticeable at shorter exposures
Ooh yeah I get something similar to that
I need to check that out then
@meager hare If you're gonna use the barlow, shoot objects that are at a reasonably high altitude, stars are sharper and affects of atmosphere are less noticeable
Yeah! you should. siril has all these cool features I haven't got to play with lol
Lyra is pretty high for me in the summer which is good.
thats perfect, bunch of planetary nebula there
I tried shooting C6 but man that one is dim af
Gonna try and gather more M51 data to add to my 100mins I captured last week. So I’ll test that anti banding feature then see if it’s good
Cool cool
I shot some M51 last night too, gonna add it to my final stack too lol
What’s the total exposure then?
Very nice, I love the natural colours
Also @gusty holly how do you combine dso data? Stack the final stacks or stack all the individual frames from all sessions?
Thanks! that was literally just a 30 second process, but i'll keep that in mind!
I stack the individual frames, I tried final stacks before too but idk I haven't found a good way to do that yet
individual frames seems more right anyway
Got it. Yeah I tried stacking final stacks too earlier but it doesn’t work right
Try livestacking, it reduces your stacking time by a million
Yeah I did that
Ahh nice
But to combine data you’d still need to stack the individual frames from all sessions in a different stacking program right
Also livestacking doesn’t have good pixel rejection
It keeps the frames with satellites for example
Kinda sucks
Yeah, its not great. But I just do a bunch of 3 minute livestacking sessions consisting of 1 second subs. If a satellite does appear in one of them I just reset the livestack
then I stack those livestacks in DSS
It's def better to shoot a indivudal frames then stack those, but I really don't have the patience for that
the space it takes and the minor improvements you'd get aren't worth it for me lol
FWHM filter works alright though
Wait so you combine all the stacks from the smaller 3 minute livestacks?
If you’re combining data from different sessions
Lets say I shot 5, 3 minute livestacks one night. Then another 5 another night. I would combine the total (10) in DSS
so I save the livestacks, but not the raw frames
Do yall do firecapture for dso or sharpcap?
I use sharpcap, idk if firecapture has livestacking. But I want to transition to firecap for planetary cuz of the dynamic roi
Gotcha, sounds like a good method
Hasn't done me wrong yet!
but like I said, if you're going for the sharpest possible then save the raw frames
Yeah
then manually go through them all 
What kind of FWHM values do you get mostly
How do yall do dynamic roi in firecapture? Does it let you get high fps? Ive just been cropping and then using my finger to slightly nudge the dob during capture.
It really depends on the seeing, at native fl i usually limit it at 6-7. with 2x or whatever I go up to 8
someitmes in rly good seeing I limit it at 5.5
Ye ye, I limit to about 5.5-6 in good seeing too
noice, means we're about at the limit I think lol
I mean you can go lower in exposure
You can move the roi in sharpcap, I haven't tried firecap at all yet, so I wouldn't know
But do you still get 200fps or so while doing that?
dang, my tracking becomes too much of a problem
Oh yeah, it's pretty quick
But tbh I have no idea how to set exp and gain for dso. For planetary I just adjust it to what my seeing is and aim for 50-60% histogram. Simple. Dso Idrk know what I’m doing. I just try to do long exposures with good seeing because signal, and for gain I just adjust it so I can see some signal in a single exposure so I know where I’m aiming lol. But Idk if that’s good
For DSO my histogram is cut off at about 40% but same tbh lol
I missed this, what were you referring to?
if it's m51, that one was 36 mins
I used 2s for that one
https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/247347265226801153/1111470019117850625/image.png this is a quick edit of my 100mins right after I finished the session
5-7sec exposures
Oh wow, that's nice! I see that satellite photo bomb lol
It should, how do you get such nice blues?
I just followed a Siril tutorial on yt lol
For processing dso
For colour balancing and stuff, I finish in Siril with saturation
Hadn’t done that yet on this image I believe but yeah I sometimes apply some light wavelets
I do that in Astrosurface though, not Siril
Do yall ever have problems with misaligned diffraction spikes? Not that they are that big with short exposures but still, I’d imagine that could be a problem when combining data from several nights.
Yeah, but like you said they're less prominent at shorter exposures so you can get away with it most of the time.
Aaaa
But to fight it, you can try to keep your camera oriented the same way everytime. With an eq mount or platform field rotation isn't an issue so as long as your camera is in the same orientation, your diffraction spikes would be consistent
Aaaaa
Yeah but you gotta reset the platform every hour. Either way, especially if I’ll be using a 3x, I wont even have any spikes.
Ah I see, and yeah most likely only with the very bright stars
ISS tonite
@gusty holly I gathered more M51 data just now and I was gonna combine it with the raw frames from my previous session
They were on my external hdd but they got corrupted while copying them to my pc or something
It’s weird asf. They’re all just gone
Wth, try using a recovery program?
@frozen flint recurva by CCleaner is free, I used that sometimes but it isn't always guaranteed
I wonder if it's due to using an hdd over an ssd
But prolly not
I wonder if it is because I accidentally dropped my hdd lol, even though that happened a week before taking the data that disappeared
Tried it just now but it doesn't work :(
Good thing the object isn’t going anywhere anytime soon
Yeah, it sucks but it happens
Yeah this is like the third or fourth time I'm shooting this object though and I still haven't been able to experiment with combining data
I think I might just move on to a different object
how good or bad will a Meade 10" truss tube dob be for ap?
planetary and lunar
not expecting to do dso ap with a dob
anyone?
It would be fine for planetary, what's the f ratio at native fl
f/5 @gusty holly
It will work just fine
M51 from a few nights ago, only about 1 minute total exposure (10 secs each sub)
Took about 1 hour of data but DSS won't detect enough stars in most frames haha
very promising, I assume it's a tracked dobsonian?
Three shots from a few years back when I didn’t have all the gear I have now. It was just me, my 8” sw dob and a a6000. Probably the most fun I had in ap ever.
Use astrosurface
Dob AP. Basic yet fun. Spending time out under the stars with nothing that can go wrong with your rig.
Man I miss those times. Im contemplating getting s used 12” one just to actually and fully enjoy the hobby for once.
Yup, that's right, it's a 10" on a TMS Astro EQ platform
But it's not GoTo
Tried it, but unfortunately the stacked images came out terrible
Only reliable option that works for me at the moment is DSS, but will try stacking them soon again in astrosurface to see if I can get it any better
@frozen flint @gusty holly which program do yall use for stacking?
Now I'm part of this group
Really? Even with multi star stacking???
I don’t think I’ve ever had a stack fail with it
Doing manual tracking with dob is harder than I thought
Usually DSS, but Astrosurface or even autostakkert in extreme cases when dss doesn't do the trick
Sometimes my data just doesn't stack no matter what I do
And you do sharpcap right?
And do yall just live stack, and then combine everything or do yall just feed the raw stuff into a stacker?
And do yall do flats and darks and all that buisness or just lights?
Yes. I usually shoot 3 minute livestacks then stack them in DSS. You'll probably have a sharper image if you do the raw frames but it'll also take much longer to process.
I'd like to use flats and darks but im really bad a taking them apparently. It's kinda of tricky with those too since you might rotate the camera during the session to avoid field rotation. But if you keep your camera in the same orientation during the imaging session then your flats/darks should work well
How well lubricated is your base?
It's good, the only problem is when it's low on the horizon, on Saturn I didn't have a problem
Yeah, I must be doing something wrong..
Will try it again tonight and let you know how it went
Man the hubble optics dob is impossible to collimate
Primary mirror movement is shit
Is primary out or secondary
Looks like both to me
I would start with racking the focuser all the way inwards and trying to get the primary perfectly centred in the secondary
Then move on to primary collimation
You mean get the center spot in the middle of the cross hair?
Also there are no mirror clips on this dob
@frozen flint
Collimate the secondary so that the entire primary is visible through it
It might make it easier to hang a white or coloured sheet of paper behind the secondary as seen through the focuser
You want a perfect black circle around the primary, in the secondary
Like this
As close to perfect as posssible
At that point your secondary collimation should hold for quite a while so you won’t have to touch it again anytime soon
From there primary collimation may need some getting used to but it’ll be a breeze soon enough
Better?
Huh
I think you need to find a way to have the truss cage all around the secondary if you know what I mean
How long is too long of a sub time for lucky imaging DSOs?
I think if you have very steady seeing it doesn’t hurt to go for a few seconds long subs, as long as your tracking allows for it
I have the same problem, but mine is GSO
I think it's good now took way to long to figure it out
Yeah looks much better at least
And yeah first time collimating always sucks
Collimating gets way easier the first few times
12" dob first light
OK, turns out I can actually kind of see polaris from my balcony so I might try polar aligning the eq platform tonight.
Ok so as kind of a first test, about 14 minutes on M57. Had to lucky image because of the wind. 3 videos stacked in AS3 and then the 3 sub images were stacked in sequator. Gimp for final touches. I'd say its not bad, but it needs a lot more data.
Also btw this was at the native 1200mm. Might try the 3x if tomorrow is clear.
Yeah that's not bad at all! Nice!
Going on vacation in 2 weeks though, so I'll be putting my summer house 10" on that platform under rural bortle 2 skies, shit is gonna get real.
You have a summer house where you also have a 10"?
Its not MY summer house, belongs to someone in my family, but I go there often, and they let me keep a 10” there. I used to do visual for like 5 years before I started imaging in autumn.
Well weather is still horrful for me 
Litterally havn't had a single clear night, except for 2 during the full moon
+I have my first exams soon so yeah...
Alright, big question but I’ll try and narrow it down. I want to take photos through my 6” dob. I’m trying to go down a low-budget route for the most part (not the best at diy-type stuff, but always willing to try). I am looking to try and get both planets and dso. What do I do?
Yeeees finally
It's not perfect but compared to the past few months it's crystal clear
What website or software is this?
Meteoblue
Ohh thanks!
Weathers been under lately
For a month and a half actually
I have not seen a clear sky since then
1 hour of 0.5s exposures on M94
Did 6 20-minute .ser files, 2400 frames per .ser of which I stacked 50% each
Was actually expecting to have picked up more of the galaxy
Maybe I'll gather more data for it later, but I'm not sure if it'll improve the signal in any way
Or just make the already existing image less noisy
AutoStakkert or Astrosurface?
Astrosurface
Why this thing dead?
Which is good? a collimation cap, cheshire collimator eyepiece or laser
My dob came today FINALLY
Im plannning to buy a collimator tool as my dob didnt come with it pretty much
The outer part of that galaxy is mad faint, I've struggled with it before. If you collect more data, it will do both of those. As a result of adding more data, your both smoothing out noise and boosting signal because your able to stretch the data more, bringing out fainter information.
if i understand this correctly, the laser is for collimating ONLY the primary, and the cap is for centering the secondary
laser good for neither tbh
i speak from experience
just use the collimation cap all the way
did you collimate your laser?
yes
i used a v block
to be fair though
expensive laser collimators work
but if you're gonna buy like, a cheap one on amazon
don't, they're trash
Alright my exams are finished and the clear skies seem to be coming back so i'll probably have some data soon!
M51
Dobson 15", Player One Poseidon C (2600c), equatorial plateform, baader coma corrector
RGB 1400x1s + 500x2s + 120x4s, 48min
Siril (stacking, alignment, histo), PixInsight (BlurXT, NoiseXT), the Gimp (lumi, sat)
Some improvements in mind, still learning...
And nevermind the skies are bad again and I won't have access to my scope for a while...
Uhhhh to those orion xt6 owners is this how the secondary mirror screws supposed to be?
Cause how will i turn the screws to collimate???
Isnt it supposed to be the screw heads??
is the secondary loose?
Nope
those screws should be an allen head
My scope is collimated but im worried for the future
so you should be able to collimate in the future
idk why theyre sticking out like that tho lol
Aint no way this a mistake right?
should be fine if its tight and doesnt move
I hope so
Well when my dob came after a month of shipping the primary mirror is pretty out of collimation but the secondary is centered
So i hope no worries
It looks and feels stable so phew we safe
NGC 7023 Iris Nebula, 1500 x 1s = 25min with a small table SW Heritage Dobson 5". PlayerOne 533c uncool camera, manually centered using the drift graph from SharpCap
Siril + PixInsight + Gimp
Really happy to see this thread is active and well. I just got the AD12 from apertura Dob and just spent the weekend figuring out how to get my old DSLR attached to it. I'm new to this and will need some help from time to time i'm sure. Good pictures everyone! I'll see if I can catch up.
First Shot! Super excited. I spent the all weekend learning to collimate and focus my camera! So happy.
send a png so we can see
Thanks I just got gimp and RawTherapy installed.
Stock, Canon 5D Mark ii, iso 100, 1/15 shutter. Custom adapter to my AD12. It's a bit out of focus i think I will try again soon.

M20 - Trifid nebula
ZH-1, dobson heritage 130/650 + motors & 2ndary upgrade kit (beta-test)
Player One 533c, UV-IR Cut
120x4s + 60x8s = 16min
Siril (DOF, stack, photometry, histo), PixInsight BlurXT/NoiseXT, Gimp (sat, curves)
2nd of August - Bortle 4 - Moon at 99%
Very good!
Even though you have pixinsight it didn't seem like you utilized it for this image
Other than BlurX and NoiseX, but Pix has many, many more capability than just that
Yes I know, I started with Siril and still like it for the speed to stack many photos, then I should progressively learn the other processes that exist in PixInsigth and look very interesting, there is still some marge to progress, which is good !
Mmm yes, my first try at untracked dob astro with my Orion XT8 and QHY 5L-II mono using color data from my tracked rig.
2 min of 300ms subs
Yes 300ms was a bit to long
On my dobsonian I can’t focus my dlsr without a Barlow, any ideas on how to fix?
Why in the world do they call dob astrophotography stupid but not any other newtonian scopes
Planetary AP isn’t stupid with a dob, it’s just the rest of it 
Many newts aren’t designed to reach prime focus with a camera. If you have a truss you can reach focus by shortening the truss. If you have a solid tube you need to mod it so that the mirror is moved further up the shaft.
You might have better luck with an astrocam or mirrorless, because the sensors are further forward and that might be just enough to reach focus. It depends on the scope.
afaik pretty much every dob/newt will focus with an astro cam since the sensor is really close, like an eyepice almost
I just use autostskkert lol
Yeah, worked pretty good when I tried it again :)
What’s your imaging train look like?
You need to move the mirror cell up
In order to fix that
Properly
Or if ur lucky
U may be able to rig something up
Hey guys, I’ve been looking at used telescopes for a few weeks now and have come to the réalisation that deep sky astrophotography is just too expensive for me. I am now looking at a dobsonian and am wondering if I could use that for planetary astrophotography?
yes, they are ideal for planetary astrophotography
Ok
They work great for visual too, I got mine last year and was out for hours even though I live in bortle 8 skies
I mean they are like the best for beginner visual astronomy
taken through my dob last night
Hello! I shall join the dob AP cult
Yes!!!
Hello my fellow dob owners
Has anyone here ever tried this one with a dob?
A few minutes on M13 from last night
Nice work
Ok so I definitely got something, but for some reason DSS only stacked a very small percent of my total frames, only 383 of around 5300.
Wow man looks really really cool
Maybe try AS3 surface mode, might have better luck idk
Both as3 and astrosurface didnt work bcs the nebula and the stars around are really dim, ngc1501 is like mag 13. I think I just need to change the star detection threshold on dss
damn rip, hopefully you get that worked out that’ll be awesome
I think with all of the frames, and some deconvolution, this one’s gonna be really good
Agreeeed
How long were your subs
241ms
so like 21 minutes or so
I'm stacking 80% for the resolution, so around 17 minutes total
Didn't have much time bcs I was also shooting m57, and by 3 am the sky was already getting brighter
Ok 2nd attempt stacking, its taking a lot longer now so it’s probably working
Damn that’s great for mag 13
I haven’t been able to get a good pic of anything dimmer than mag 8 tbh
Yeah with all the frames I think it’ll be a banger
Deconvolution probably wont help much
its stupid low SNR data
And you're doing lucky imaging so i dont think the psf will be as consistent
what about astrosurface multi star
hmmmmmmmmmmm
I still havn't had a single opportunity to test my mount with my dob 
My original point still stands, decon is next to useless on low SNR data
This?
Holy shit its working
I didn’t even know about this
@stark gorge thank you so much man
Does it matter where I combine my stacks? I like to do it in sequator, is that ok? Or should I do it in dss
Just look at this beauty
Noice
Amazing shot right there
You got it!
Np. Image looks great
Hello, here are some photos made from the SkyWatcher 130/650 table Dobson "heritage" (230€) upgraded with the "ZH-1" project kit including ALT/AZ motors managed by Teensy/TeenAstro + an upgraded 2ndary 3D printed kit, I am a beta-tester and I spend 4 nights of 2-3h playing with it, and it was fun & easy !
I am using a not cooled Player One imx533c and an uv-ir cut filter.
The photos are made of 4s and sometimes 8s frames for a total integration time between 10 and 20min under a bortle 4 during my holidays (none of my 3 children was left out of the car!).
For the processing, I am using Siril (DOF,drizzle x2, stack, photometry, histo), PixInsight BlurXT/NoiseXT/StarnetV2 and Gimp (sat, curves)
M20
M27
M16
M8
M17
NGC 7293 (15° alt)
M13
M51
NGC 7000
NGC 4631
NGC 6960
It seats on a table. The tape is because of a quick maintenance with no tool on site
Amazing. Nice work!
What’s the ZH-1 project kit? Google turns up nothing.
It is a DIY project in beta test still
@marsh ridge with tuning :
sorry in french only so far : https://www.instructables.com/Bring-Your-Heritage-to-the-Moon-/
[Mis À Jour !] Propulsez Votre Heritage Sur La Lune ! - Version Finale: [English version here]
Ah, le 130 Heritage de Sky-Watcher !
Peut-être un des télescopes sur lequel les débutants posent le plus de questions, en raison de son prix abordable. C’est aussi celui sur lequel les habitués sont plus mitigés, du fait de se…
2 NEMA17 400 steps at 10€ each
Did you reinforce the focuser? If so how?
Looks like 3D printing but what design
The secondary part : spider, 2ndary mirror holder, and the 1.25 thread canera side are 3d printed
Then we can fix any focuser like the zwo used for camera guiding which is smooth and precise enough for a single speed, and light
Ah ok, I’ve seen that, I just didn’t know it was called ZH-1
heritage my beloved
Really nice!
I have a few clear nights for the coming nights so hopefully I'll take my first real image with my mount
I think I'll go for crescant, here is the quick result of tonights test (500ms because it was windy and 30 minutes total integration)
Also got quite a lot of data from Io's transit (like almost a million frames)
.5s is short indeed, so less efficient to get the faintest part, as mine to get the blue-ish Oiii all around. The noise is very low, which is à good point!
1million frames, poor computer that will have to manage the processing !
Yep haha
It's short but honestly not that much as I have a low read noise cam and relatively high bortle
So the difference between 150 x2 sec and 300 sec isn't that big (except for the computer ^^')
Whaqa
500ms subs
224mc right?
Insane
Yes
Dad looking for some advice. 🙂 Son has a skywatcher 200p after upgrading from the “toy” telescopes. We have the basic kit and he loves checking out the planets and now wants to take some photos of what he can see. He has an old Sony a200 camera which I bought an adapter for so it fits onto the telescope. Now if my research is right. (Am a complete noob) the camera just slots into the focuser. The issue we have is that we can’t get focus; the focus is just off; it needs to be just a bit closer but the focus is at the minimum depth. Appreciate any help/advice as want to help him with his newly found passion. 🙂
Well there are people that are more experienced then me but I think I can give you an answer 🙂 You can't achieve focus with a dslr on most dobs since the light travels father in a dslr (50-55mm) then you need to for getting the focus just right. So there are 3 solutions (of what I know of...: 1: Try using a Barlow lens (a good one), as this will move the focus point further out, and might achieve focus like this it will get you closer and possibly get better footage of planets. 2:get another camera that can achive focus (mirrorless camera ( a more modern version of a dslr) or astro camera (these can be tricky for beginners as you'll need a computer of some sort to run the software)). 3. move the mirror further up in the tube (not sure how to do that (have seen people doing it on the server though), note: that this requires disassembly of the bottom part of the scope. If I where you I'd get a barlow as the other options (that I know of) are tricky or expensive. NOTE: a dob telescope isn't made for photography as the mount is a alt-az (up and down motion) and not a eq (follows the rotation of the earth. this makes it an inefficient way of photographing deep sky objects. However that are the cheapest good ways to achieve good planetary pictures (the barlow will be good for this) these pictures are taken via. videos and stacked in a software on the computer.
You can take still photos of the planets, but however these photos will be blurry as the atmosphere is quite wobbley
that is why many planetary are achieved via. video because the software will select a the best frames in the video (the ones with the least blur) and stack them to get a evened out clearer shot of the planet. astrobiscuit made a video where he uses this technique... I can try to find it 🙂
found it didn't think it was 5 years old lol: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYsgyL7I8RI
Can we photograph Jupiter on a budget of just £100? In order to make this possible I get in touch with the best planetary photographer in the world, Damien Peach and ended up bagging Mars and Saturn too!
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Many many thanks for the help! Time to try again. 🙂
no problem, clear skies!! 
@meager hare ive heard dob dso imagers say astropixel processor is superior for dob dso imaging. Cleaner stacks
The astroimaging channel did an interview with a goto dob dso imager pretty good watch
Perhaps
I’ll have to give the free trial a try
Anyone know how to delete bad frames under a threshold, but still export the result as a video? I want to lucky image, but Astrosurface multi-star has worked best for me so far in terms of stacking success, so I figure I can have the best of both worlds by taking bad frames out of the video before stacking.
Run it through pipp to have the bad frames at the end od the avi maybe?
Astrosurface multistar still gonna stack all the frames tho



