#Untracked Astrophotography
1 messages · Page 4 of 1
im good thanks
Thank you
I dunno what to shoot, I don't know if I want to continue collecting M45 data, Widefield Orion, M31. Or start a new target
I still want to get an untracked shot of andromeda since my first one was out of focus. Idc if I have the tracker. It was my dream to have a good picture of andromeda (untracked)
I have 10 minutes of m31 data atm, I wanna collect more but i just cba imaging lmao
Out of focus .exe
only 15min. I just wanted to shoot smth since clouds where about to roll in
@dusty gull Is it smart to restack my orion since I used a bad sample frame and it was not centered correctly
I'm leaving too. Probably in 5-10 days.
I re-edited my last image. What do you think? Is it better than the version before?
gonna be a while before I can track with my 8" dob that weighs like 11kgs 
If you have no issue with star alignement then bad sample frame is probably not a problem
Unless it's is VERY bad
And if it's not centered as you want you can
As you want
yes
its way more noisy
but the nebulosity is there
Ok thanks. I re-edited the stars now and now they look more natural.
ya sure about that? 
I won't be tracked for at least 6 months
So probably not the last one
Sorry I'm leaving
I have to fight my way out
It's been an honor serving with you soldier
Don't worry I'm sure more untracked members will join
It's just this generation is going tracked
🫡
I probably won't be leaving for a while.
Nooo
Onstep build is soon
Good for you
Good luck to all the untracked folks
Goodluck to you
Good luck
this is with a 5" dob and 224mc?
Yes
It was an honour to have you to have you in this wonderful community
I hate the fact that some people are alr imaging the comet and I might not even see it once because the weather over here in Germany is awful
Wow
My first try at M42, shot with a Nikon D5300. About 200 pictures stacked. What do you guys think?:)
fonna try a galaxy untracked
Which one?
Oh yes very bright
M83
Looks fun to capture
I'll probably try it
But it's really low at my latitude and only visible in summer...

only managed to get 83 of these before clouds ruined the night
not sure if they are even useable
and every software that I've tried is completely unable to stack it
what object?
Can u pls explain post processing comets in Siril?
M81
tried DSS yet?
yeah
it creates star trails for some reason
I have no idea why nothing works
the stars are clearly visible in every shot
even if they are all pretty awful
what stacking settings do you have?
one sec
oh yeah dss always gives me an error
it still works but I don't know if it's making it worse
never seen that error, but if it still stacks i'd let it be
First time shooting a galaxy, 10 minutes of data.
did you crop some of them or?
nope
trying it again now
I think before it was detecting noise as stars
no
doesn't work
they are all almost the same
you could try checking the reduce noise by using a median filter option
tried it, only wanted to stack one frame
ASTAP?
yeah, another program that can stack images
stars arent too round, could be the reason
do you have a screenshot of the full image?
Hmm possible
Post processing or stacking?
hmm, should still be able to stack
So I do background extraction in siril (selecting all the areas except where there is the comet tail) and then it's some simple histogram stretch and noise reduction
What about colour calibration
Siril's be autocalibrate
mm, i've had that error but don't remember the fix
could you upload all the files? i could try stacking them
@calm hearth i suggest you try siril, it always worked way better for me
U could try to convert all those images from fit to fits
There are some softwares for that i believe
yeah I think siril does that
What happens exactly?
this
this is the closest I've gotten to a stacked image
Which one do you use?
For me Sharcap is really good and I capture in ser
ASIStudio
maybe I should change
it also doesn't let you preview the image
so it's quite a pain to use
Have u tried DSS? So far it has worked pretty well for me
isn't that for stacking?
yes
yeah I tried it but it doesn't detect stars in more than one image
despite them all being almost identical
What I do to align (tell me if you do that too) :
I choose the reference frame to be one sub where the galaxy is roughly at the center
I set the star pair number down to 4
I open the psf setting and adjust threshold and roundness setting to select all the stars visible in autostretch view
I'll give it a try

Yeah you should change lol
lol true
yea
I also tried yours
only one single image registered
Thanks! I'll try later
yeah
even with a focal reducer I can't get a decent size
might as well just attach a camera lens to it and put it on a basic tracking mount
or a small refractor
that shit looks like acid trip
omg im gonna get nerd 😮 real
or the other guy
either way I should also get it 😮
hm
Yeah I have no idea how siril can mess that up
Astrosurface also stacks little amounts of stars rlly well
If you tweak the settings you can make it work. I had the same issue
Stacking settings
Make sure to use sigma clipping
what is this?
This looks so weird
Hope u find an method soon
How many subs? @calm hearth
WIP 2k 1second subs with my old dslr
Wow... As always
Where colour 
Didn't manage to get many, only around 100
But should still be enough for the core
I just did a quick stretch... was too lazy to remove the color gradients. I'll do that when I have some more free time
fair enough 
(also the color mottle is quite annoying)
DSS is slowly gonna drive me to insanity
im just not gonna bother with the stars and have it just make it so the comet is sharp
In general, I suck at using dss
is it good enough if it's just on the comet mode?
use stars only and comet only modes separately
I'm more and more considering to buy a commercial eq platform
It would support my 8inch when I'll upgrade and I'll don't have to worry about the precision
I might get some NAN data tonight
I'm sorry I'm on a school trip... I'll try when I'll be back (in a few days)
Maybe try stretching and stack after stretching
funny untracked carina
it's good
What was the total exposure time?
5 minutes
Maybe a bit of processing will help
Full image
Yes I have taken from southern part of india
It will be near horizon
Not good though
No I captured with 50mm
Will try to find, I hope it will be somewhere in my hard disk
i wanna add more data tonight and add another bit to it to make a mosaic with coalsack in it
awesome, I will also try soon,
Hopefully from a good dark skies
I captured LMC too but very noisy,
I captured it directly through the light pollution 🤣
it gets upto 7 degrees high at my location
i see tarantula
this is prob my best smc pic untracked
how long exposure?
in my single subs i see tarantula and the core very clearly
I think 8 secs
Will chk though
I am from Northern hemispere 
wait you can imaging lmc in northern?
But south of northern hem
Yes, I am at 12-13 degrees North
nice
Hopefully will soon try from a good dark skies, will get even south near the end of India
Test image of some region near Carina
Captured very less data
I'm going to order and adaptater to connect my f1.8 lens to my asi 224mc 
5 times brighter because of f ratio and 7 times longer subs... I can't wait!
Niceee
@strange seal congrats!
The German weather is currently really bad for AP, but I got 10min data of the Comet yesterday/today. I even saw it with binos in B5.
Probably my last untracked image.
Thanks
lmc meganerd 
wish i got more data on this
about 20mins at F4.5 and ~190mm FL
You should consider yourself lucky... The weather in eastern Germany is awful
I took one pic with clouds because I just wanted one pic. And its not gonna get better
but nice image:D
Finally processed M82!
Wow! You guys are killing it with untracked, I have done only widefield untracked astrophotography so far
Can u send the uncropped version?
So that I can see how much the comet covers in the frame
And from what bortle scale are u capturing?
49 mins with dob
And your widefield untracked is awesome!
Nice! What sub lenght?
I think so
Wdym?
Oh wait
Could you share the stacked file?
There's isn't that much data on this globular clusters so it's hard to tell
with my computer
Substacks
Oh ok
Stacking 1000 per stacks then stacking those stacked files?
Maybe you should try longer exposures to denoise?
i did 5k frame substacks
but then i get trailing
U get trailing at more than 80ms???
with my pixel scale and this targets dec yeah
i can bin 2. i can get 4x as much data with my drive size, better (double?) the SNR and 160ms subs.
just not sure if ill be lacking on the small stuff then
NPF says 120ms
Where can I find it?
Ty!
ehhh idk about bin 2
I have been taken over very easily with dob imaging :v
how many pixels of trailing should I choose?
2 ish
Do you take darks?
ya
@strange seal I assume u used astrosurface to stack ?
yea
So u stacked in 5k sub stacks then stacked those stacks together ?
Alr may try a couple new targets with the moon atm
im barlowing up for eta carina hopefully
good luck 
I tried to barlow Orion and it was a pain, and i tied ngc 2392 but gave up really quickly
Main issues are reframing and alignement
i did orion but couldnt get any stars to stack. Likely had to dial in settings more
Oh you got some clusters!
Definitively
I'm gonna do a map for you
But you have at least a dozen @strange seal
i saw some bright blobs with no diffraction spikes in the hubble pic
I only selected the "most obvious" ones and they perfectly match the reference pic so it's probably not noise
how do you know they are clusters?
the pixels are like 2x as big
Idk about the fl though
10" vs 8" newt
im guessing you overlayed some of the other data?
Wdym by overlayed?
it looks sharper than my data
It's only your data but I BlurXed it
holy blurx is too op
That looks awesome
Yep but you can achieve similar results with other methods
To me the only big improvement over other "classic" methods is that it only sharpens the objects and do not add star artefacts or noise on the bckg
Yep untracked is hard
But sombrero is a kinda hard target for everyone
I mean it's details are hard to get right
tbf this is only one night of good data and one night of data with bad walking noise, i can shoot it for a long time when its properly in season
i love siril .png
And here's my process!
from B4
@strange seal 25! and yet some got deleted by denoise
very cool
Wow Exaxe got a lot of them too
Ok, I don't need to crop much then 😅
I don’t have any subs but I have the live view
oh nice
that's actually not too different to what I get
unfortunately my stacks are all terrible
which galaxy is this?
Sombrero
@dusty gull went through on the autostretch and masked through all the ones i could see to keep them from the denoise.
31 resolved
M42. First try on my 80/400 with a Nikon D5300. 1000 1/3 of a second pics on iso 2500. You guys have any idea what causes the v-shape on the blue stars? Really happy with it tough!
orion nebula 15 minutes untracked in bortle 8
My first attempt at 55mm with the kit lens
Learned some things going out with the 55-250mm lens tonight
the V shape is probably from going wide open on your lens. lenses generally don't perform well wide open so you might want to look into stopping down once or twice
How much data?
I wanna try with my 55mm
Just below 30 minutes
Just got a half hour at 135mm, went as long as my battery would let me
an hour integration
What was it shot with? Aperture and mm, thanks!
I have two trash telescopes it’s not really good on deep sky objects so i used my mom cameras i now use a Canon EOS 700D with Canon EF lens 50mm 1:1.8 STM ,what do i buy to upgrade with about 270$ and do i buy dwarf 2 ? ,bey the way I’m in light pollution i’m 14 so i can’t go out the city and i can’t buy too expensive things , and this is the first picture i got and stacked is about 60 photos the exposure time of every photo is 1 second and the ISO is 64000 i think
At 50mm you should be able to do a longer exposure time than 1s, Find out what exposure time you can do untracked at 50mm, with the money, I would buy a new lens maybe.
But i don’t know why when i make the exposure longer it turned whit is that because light pollution ?
For most cameras is ISO 3200 (and some 1600) the best. Then should the frames be much darker. You should be able to take maybe 2s exposures (with round stars, but that depends on different factors). Have you edited the picture? I'd recommend Siril and Gimp for it (they're free).
You could get really good results with that lens and camera. Probably the most important upgrade for you isn't a new cam or lens but a tracker, because with it you relieve your shutter (and laptop when stacking...). Before you buy expensive stuff, you probably should learn it with your current first (you don't even need to buy a tracker), but I'm new in this hobby and 14 years old too.
In what bortle class are you living? What @hybrid basin says, try lowering your iso to 1600 or 3200 and try a little longer exposures. What trash scopes do you have? Also already tried M42? I think it's a good idea to start with a nice and bright target.
I live in portal 9
The photo i captured is for andromeda
The light pollution shouldn't be such a big problem, as long, as there's no lantern directly before your lens. Yes, it's more difficult with much light pollution, but not impossible.
Yes, but @static cape could be right, because you can learn really good with M42.
@glossy knoll this was the 3d time I've tried dso. first 2 times was with a 200 mm lens at f5.6 on 2 second exposures. I shot this with a sky watcher 80/400 which is also considered a trash scope I guess(?) but it really made a difference compared to the camera lens. I'm also a beginner but I think you just have to try different things and find out what works for you:)
No my telescope is a real trash scope even the focuser diameter is 1 inch not even 1.25 inch i can’t buy a adapter for it and bought a celestron omni 4 mm lens and a omni barlow and it doesn’t fit ,so i can’t use it
6400
I used siril the photo up i stacked with siril
What is the best high IOS and short Exposure or low ISO and long Exposure?
Different ISO setting shouldn't change your maximum exposure time
Just find out how long of an exposure you can do at 50mm, and then just take some test shots at 1600 and 3200 ISO
what camera do you have?
Canon EOS 700D
So, this is just a rough estimate, but at 50mm you should be able to do a 5 second exposure.
you could probably go to 6s with some very slight trailing
I have searched in https://www.photonstophotos.net/ and found out that the best ISO of the camera is 6400
I would recommend testing different exposure times around 5s to really narrow down what you prefer
6400 iso will be best for picking up signal, But the high ISO will introduce a lot of noise. and if the image to too bright you should lower the iso
Is this problem of exposure time from the ISO or the light pollution ?
Exposure time is how long the shutter is open while collecting light for your image. You want to use the highest exposure time you can while doing astrophotography. If your image is too bright you must turn down your ISO.
Some people shoot at ISO 800
I shoot at 1600-3200. I stopped shooting at 6400 because of how noisy my images were
Ok thank you very much but i will return to astrophotography in Wednesday do i add more data to my andromeda photo ,? or catch photos of M45 ?
I would shoot Widefield M45, Maybe try get california nebula in there. You would need quite a lot of time, but you have a pretty fast lens with the f1.8 50mm lens.
I want the brightest
Not sure, Search what their apparent magnitudes are
I would bet M45 is brighter, as its easier to see with the naked eye
Higher ISOs are less noisy and better for untracked
Higher ISOs reveal the noise (thats why it looks noisier) but actually decrease it
what about ISO invariant cameras?
should I still use a higher ISO and sacrifice the DR to get more faint data off the noise floor?
Don't worry about the DR untracked, the signal that you get is too low so smaller DR won't change anything
I shoot at 3200 ISO on a nikon d750. is that good enough?
I don't really know about dslrs but that seems good to me
I used 12800 when I did untracked with that camera
curious but what's your main rig?
Swsa+Roki 135+ D750/700D
no way
bro from the images you are putting out i honestly wouldn't be surprised if you had like a full blown mount with telescopes and mono cameras
This is a take of mine from last night
I'm having this problem where the center of the image appears brighter than the corners, still tryina solve that.
Half and hour at 135mm with a 55-250mm lens and a canon T2i
take flats
question, how can i know how many pixels i've trailed?
Count them
so here i've trailed arround 3?
because i took that with 1s exposure but according to this spreadsheet (https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1tSEbji6V4rYz81COybiD5LWaekULIQReJy7kZCxQy78/edit#gid=0) i sould only be able to do that with 0.04s
What camera has 0.7um pixels?
Your phone camera has a lens in the way (afocal) so I don’t think that rule applies.
Doing the maths, your sensor is larger than the lens aperture, effectively 0.82x magnification. So i think you can multiply your focal length by 0.82, or divide your pixel size by 0.82, whatever.
Not that that helps a lot in your case.
yeah this makes no sense, it's still giving me a below 0.0s exposure time for that amount of pixel drift while i got the same amoun doing 1s
Honestly I don’t use a calculator I just take a exposures of increasing length until I see trails. I am not a pro.
Same
pleiades from a full moon in bortle 8 after 25 minutes
fair enough 
this is the best i've gotten so far, taken early jan. it has no calibration frames and it's only 13' of total data. tips on how to remove that weird vertical noise and that weird trailing effect on the stars at the edges are welcome
that looks like pretty intense CA
chromatic aberration?
yup
what's that?
if you're using a tracker, moving very slightly in between shots is what dithering is
very slight, we're talking a couple pixels

ah ic
mbmb
then walking noise shouldn't be an issue. weird
you need to take dark frames and bias frames
they'll help
Every time i take photos with my camera after i stack it this dark spot pop’s up in it way is this from the lens of the camera ? I use only a camera and a normal camera lens and a tripod
The dark spot is bottom left the photo, bey the way this is the comet
you take flats?
No
you should, it could very much be from a dust moat
Do i have to take flats and blacks in the same day i take the photos ?
flats should be taken after or before the imaging session, so definitely same day, darks need to be the same temp so also right after
Some details? I got this on a 80/400, Nikon D5300. 1000+- 1/1.3 exposures. Expected a little more blue in there
Lol then I need new flats, becaise my current ones are 1-2months old 
I never take darks, because I heard, that they are almost useless with DSLRs, and I'm to lazy to sacrifice energy of my battery for them, when I still could take one or two more subs...
this depends which performs better, bias or darks for you, but theres no point in taking both
i still take 25 or so darks it doesn't take long at all especially for untracked astro
Ok, I think bias are good enough for me.
I'm not untracked anymore, but yes, it's much easier untracked
15 minutes of data
Yeah but at 400mm the star trailing is already present at 1 second sadly
You could post your data. Its difficult to get the nebula visible, but some here are much better.
As in the stacked .fit? Want to give it a try? DM or in here?
This is a noob question so please be gentle...
Right now I am starting out. I have no motorised mount I have my Nikon D200 and astroberry setup. I can remotely trigger the camera and get an image on the NAS server. I can put it on a tripod and manually point it at Orion and take some images. The calculator that @ornate spade pointed me at suggested I needed to take a 1.6 second exposure with a 200mm lens with orion at 3 deg Dec. I get that I can take 1 picture. But if I take many then orion will shift right in the frame. I am using linux so I then have to align the stars in the individual images and somehow process them. But if I am only taking 1.6 sec exposures I will only ever capture 1.6 secs of photons in each image and apart from them being shifted right the quality will be determined by the 1.6 secs right?
Not sure if you can use deep sky stacker on linux, but there is probably a way. As far as I understand you are going to capture 1.6 seconds of light in each exposure, but if you stack a bunch of pictures it can figure out what is random noise and what is faint light from the object to effectively simulate a longer exposure. As far as I understand longer exposures are still better because you are going to be limited by the read noise with shorter exposures.
Ok I think I get it. But my physics brain says no more photons no more detail 😦
As far as I understand its a probability thing: if one photon from one pixel worth of area on average reaches the camera every 30 seconds, then a 30s exposure has a high % of recording that photon, but 15s exposures have a 50% chance of recording the same photon. So theoretically the exposures are the same, but in reality you have readnoise and you do need several photons to hit a pixel to be detectable. I could be wrong ofc.
Ah ok I see where you are going. IN 1.6 secs a bunch of photons will hit the sensor randomly. Then next 1.6 secs will also hit the sensor randomly etc. So the more 1.6 sec exposures the more of the senosr pixels will be hit!
So can anyone advise a good beginners guide to understanding image stacking and the differences between light dark bias flat etc.
Want to improve your astrophotography? Let's explore how to take Light Frames, Flat Frames, Bias Frames & Dark Frames that can be stacked to bring out incredible details of Deep Sky Objects. To show each step of this process, we will be imaging one the best targets in the night sky, the Orion Nebula. If you have an interest in astronomy and astr...
doesnt cover stacking (i think) but lights, darks, bias and flats
anyone got any tips on how to keep orion nebula centered enough for it to be able to be processed in siril, i took 1 second subs last night but they really werent centered
you take a few, once the object moves you stop and re-frame the object
i tried but siril keeps giving error "script execution failed"
and
"Bayer pattern found in header (BGGR) is different from Bayer pattern in settings (RGGB). Overriding settings."
oh, you may either, be missing calibration frames. or should try using sequator
i use without dbf scripts in siril
it should work tho 
ill try swquator
sequator**
those didn't work for me either
idk i use sequator for stacking and siril to post process
for me the option that works the best is "select best pixels", accumulation stacks turn out darker and with more noise
okay ill try
I have a Nikon D200 with a 18-200mm F3.5-5.6 lens. Can anyone suggest a replacement prime lens for Astrophotography my initial target is Orion, Horsehead but I would also like to capture the milky way ribbon from home. Lots of videos suggesting 35-50mm lens.
To the experts if you could only have 1 lens for the above what would it be?
Noob questions again apologies. My setup will live remote from my desktop. My camera lens has autofocus. I am assuming I cannot use that and would need to manually focus the camera. The software lets me do a preview picture. Is the idea to manually focus the camera using the view finder on the centered target then I can remote control the shooting session? The calculations are showing I should take 1.-2 sec exposures will teh focus go out as Orion moves across my frame? How many exposures should I target before re-centering the image? Will the stacking process take care of realigning the images?
Cheers
you use live view and a bright star to focus, zoom in on it and move focus ring until the star in the frame is as small as possible. the focus can shit during the course of shooting due to temperature so it's recommended to check focus every once in a while. recentering depends on the focal length, i usually do 50-100 exposures before recentering although i shoot using lower focal lengths so it'll vary
My D200 does not have 'live view' that I am aware of. Am I misunderstanding?
oh, it doesn't. that makes it more difficult
maybe it's possible to get some sort of live feed to another screen?
Not that I can work out. I can manually focus then take a preview picture remotely using EKOS and see the result as a FITS image. I think on my camera it will be a heuristic process to get the initial focus. I thought there might be some kind of motorised focus for the lens that I could control remotely. something that would turn the focus ring remotely. But I would have to go to the paddock anyway to set it up initially and I guess set the focus then manually either through the viewfinder (hard) or using the preview image. Then control everything remotely and watch as the image files come in.
hmm, you could maybe make a custom autofocuser with a motor, it could prob use just the images to focus, although it may be rather slow
I am sure I will come across someone that has the same type of issue. The D200 is old, but I set myself the challenge of working out how to get respectable astro images from my own location. I appreciate it is all a bit heath robinson! I will have the tripod and camera and external power supply for the camera and the rpi Astroberry server in the paddock and everything else is software as far as I know. Still watching lots of video on Light, Dark, Bias and Flat frames.
maybe, you could ask for help in the DIY section, lots of great DIY-ers there
I will thanks for responding. Very cloudy for the last couple fo nights so now sky view 😦
untracked andromeda only 6 minutes with canon t100 might get more tomorrow
Untracked Moon
Single exposure at 200mm + Crop
Nice image, You captured M33 too!
I should get my first chance with my new setup tonight to take my first ever AP's target is Orion. It's due south at its zenith about 20:15 should be dark enought by then. Still a bit confused on exposure settings. But the calculators all say between 1.5-2 secs exposures with my Nikon D200 and 200mm lens f.5.6 my exposure plan was to take 100 light 2secs 1600 ISO, 100 dark 2 secs 1600 ISO, 20 flat 2 secs 100 ISO, 20 bias 1/8000 ISO 100
Does that seem reasonable? Total light exposure time is only 200 seconds 3mins 20 Secs. Doesn't seem to be a lot. Am I missing something fundamental? I see lots of people stating 2hours 4 hours etc. on their images. Then I get to work through my new tutorial on Siril to process them.
Those getting over 2 hours are more than likely tracked, getting that much data untracked isnt really reasonable
on the exposure you should just experiment around until you have round stars, although a bit of preparation always helps
and on the flats you usually dont have the same exposure times, it depends how bright the light source is that youre taking the flats with, but usually you would target the exposure to be a second or more
i feel like starting at 200mm is a bit steep though, itll be rather frequent recentering and lower exposure times
I would try to start at 100-135mm so you could try to fit horsehead and flame into your orion shot as well
Thank you for the advice I will set the lens at 135mm that is effective F5.6 To get a bit more sky in. I can take some preview images to heuristically find the sweet spot for exposure length I guess. Keep extending it until I can see the hopefully nice round stars start to elongate.
hi so i have a dob telescope and i was wondering how i would be able to untracked astro not like galaxies or nebulas or anything just simple but good planetary photography i.e. like good software
you could stack in autostakkert and process in registax or astrosurface, they are all free
bad orion shot from b7
1 light?
don't remember how many it was
I think about 200
but it was my first image with my camera so I had no idea how to set it properly
colour version
A few minutes of data on HVN
Avoid autostakkert for stacking. Astrosurface is far better. Far sharper and cleaner.
Don't they have the same stacking and rejection algorithms? Why do they differ? compression? variations in the algorithms? I'm only 14 and started in december so still much to learn 😁
Yeah autostakkert it just not great at deep sky alignment.
How good is sequator for untracked then?
worse than dss
really? dss barely works for me
well dss is objectively the better software
Is Siril any better than the software suggested? It seems very comprehensive.
Well total bust tonight. Cloudy all night then moon up. See what the weekend brings. Used the time to learn more about dark, bias, flat images and work out a methodology and process to achieve each. Who knew an old Boss white T shirt and elastic band would be useful in AP square eyes from the last week of reading and watching tutorial and instrucitonal videos. So much contradictory and opinion driven stuff. The PixInsight PDF was a lot more scientific but heavy going! So impressed with the performance of one of my old Rpi3 B+ I have repurposed to run AstroBerry. A bit of overclocking and memory tuning and it runs the INDI drivers Kstars, Ekos really well for the capture part. Cable tied to the camera tripod.
untracked m33 and m31 about 10 minutes exposure time i stacked in deep sky stacker
Can you share your settings? Focal Length, f stop, ISO, number of subs and exposure time. Did you use any darks, bias, flats?
untracked m42 taken from phone
Imo it's the best software for untracked
Among dss, sequator, autostakkertand pix
Astro surface
Amazing image. What lens and ISO settings did you have, did you use darks, bias and flat frames?
That's good to know. as I will be processing whatever subs I get using it on my 12 core Ubuntu workstation and as this will be my very first attempt I will follow this guide. step by step. https://siril.org/tutorials/tuto-scripts/
This tutorial explains step-by-step how to process raw deep-sky images using, at first, the automatic processing capabilities of Siril scripts up to the stacking of the images, then the image improvement features of Siril to produce a final image for Web publication for example. It was made with version 0.99.8.1, the current stable version in Fe...
That's with my 5inch dob at 650mm and asi 224mc
I took 3minutes of darks
I think this is nice guide however scripts may not work really well untracked
The main advantage of siril imo is the possibility to easily change star detection settings and see the result
This remind me that I should write a tutorial for untracked processing....
Maybe during the holidays
That would be great. I am still a bit confused on the workflow but by following that guide I hope to at least understand the fundamentals. Why would the scripts not work well untracked? Is it due to the large target movement across the frame and the alignment process?
Star detection settings may not be right (->not enough stars detected->only a few frames aligned) and it will probably align on the first image, instead of the central image so your object will be on a corner
Alright I'm doing the guide during holidays
In one week
Brilliant I look forward to reading it. Thanks for responding and helping in my AP education.
You're welcome! I'm glad if I can help
Has anyone here built their own EQ platform for a dob? Any good guide recommendations that also covers the wiring parts? Thinking of giving it a go myself but I'm lost in the countless guides on the internet
Was just talking about that last night in another channel #1019743407037501500 message
Lots of different ways you can do wiring. Most common is using stepper motors and a microcontroller but you can also buy an EQ1 drive motor if you’re not comfortable doing that. You can ask for help in the #🔨-do-it-yourself channel.
also for planetary?
Alright! I've also heard people use DC motors, any noticable differences between those and stepper ones?
It’s the accuracy. With a stepper you know how far it rotates with each pulse you send to the motor so you can control the speed very accurately. With a DC motor you don’t have that accuracy, you have a knob that controls the speed and you turn it up or down until the stars don’t move in the eyepiece.
Ah okay, that makes sense!
If I were to buy an EQ platform, are there any brands to look out for and others to avoid?
Realising I might be a little too in over my head when trying to DIY one
I'm about to buy mine too
Where do you live?
TMS looks like a very good reference in Europe
Oh sweet! Can't wait to see what you capture with it :)
I live in Sweden 57.55 latitude
The ecliptica platforms are also a good option but not everyone agrees
Ah alright, I'll look them both up, see what's available
I've heard about those too, seem to be out of stock everywhere unfortunately
Or extremely expensive at the websites that have it in stock
They are made in Ukraine...
Tms platforms will be back soon
Ah, I think I remember hearing that somewhere now that you say it..
Ah alright, that's good
i took the exposures at 35 mm at f 4.5 about 81 8 second exposures and i was gonna take darks but got kinda lazy if i take anymore today if it’s not cloudy i’ll get some darks
and yeah i took it at iso 800
Thanks for the extra info. That gives me some confidence. No star trails at 8 seconds. I guess that is due to the wide field 35mm. The calculators are saying I should shoot bettween 1 and 2.5 secs depending on the calculator and methodology used using a 135mm lens. If these clouds ever go away I can see what focal length works best for my framing of Orion and the horsehead region. Uf U out 35mm f3,4 which is the fastest I have it says between 4.4 and 11.1 seconds across 3 different calculators. Probably overthinking it. I can see part of the challenge of this is until the images are processed you don't know whether they are going to yield a good result. As in life the 6 P's to the rescue!
If someone had told me 10 years ago that a clear night sky would be tantamount to bliss I would never have believed them 🙂
My second attempt at deep sky with my 8” dob and 224mc. My pix trial expired, and I think it shows lol
Soo envious of you guys. 100% cloud cover right now remote station all setup and ready to go. But, 100% cloud cover for the whole weekend clearing Monday PM. Depressing.
light pollution of the moon turned out to be too bad ,_,
I also completely forgot how to edit data
dbe should fix it
background extraction?
yes
Thank you !
what was this taken with btw?
Oh.. what telescope did I use? Or the camera?
I used Nikon D3s
both ofc
hmm, it may be possible for us to combine our data, i have an hour on this target untracked.
bros on the moon
Ohhh
?
nevermind
👀

Tomorrow is looking good for my first imaging session. I have a plan and lots of advice on darks, bias and flats, focal length I will decide when I have something to frame up but probably have time for a few sessions at different focal lengths.
When you are looking at something quite bright (my first target is Orion) which star would you use to try and perfect the focus. I do not have live view on the camera (it's old like me) and my plan was to try and focus on Rigel and take a preview then adjust etc. until I can get a decent round star. Then reframe and go from there.
Any practical advice welcome as I am sure many of you have shot this target a bunch of times.
Here's what it should look like in my frame at 70mm if I have my setting correct. Current plan is to take 100 2.5 second 1600 iso subs. Then repeat at 135mm with a 100 1.5 second 1600 iso subs.
The exposure time sounds good for that focal length. I'd recommend to just look a bit around, what the brightest object at the sky is, because I like to focus on planets like mars, but Rigel should be good too.
The other question I have is about white balance settings and colour temp for the various exposure types for DSLR photography. There is a lot of conflicting info out there.
It doesn't hugely matter because you will colour correct in the processing stage. Your flats will probably throw the white balance out anyway, unless you have a flat panel that emits a perfectly even spectrum. Turn auto white balance off and keep it fixed at the same level for everything.
So set it to daylight for instance? I am using an app on my samsung tablet for the white source and a white t shirt over the lens for the flats.
Yeah, setting it to daylight should be OK. If you're shooting in raw format then I don't think it matters what mode you use. You just don't want it to change between subs for whatever reason (even then I'm not sure it matters).
Yeah white balance is meaningless for raw
So I can ignore it. The manual seems to suggest that it will mangle the image. there is no 'none' option I can find. I can set a custom colour temp. Also RTFM says that Adobe RGB is better than sRGB if images are to be processed as it has wider capability and information. Capturing raw unmolested images with this DSLR seems very difficult as it seems determined to mangle the image in some way.
I'll just set it to Auto for now. I have tried to turn everything else off, image optimisation, Hue Adjustment, Tone Compensation, Colour Mode (II to match AdobeRGB), High ISO NR off etc. Where there is no 'none' I have set Auto. Do you believe that setting RAW mode igonores all these options?
Would anyone be willing to process this very first attempt once it completes. It might be totally useless data. It is 135mm f5.6 iso1600 50 x 1.5 second exposures plus the same darks and I will take bias and flats also.
1 minute is not nearly enough for most objects. if you're doing deep space astro start thinking of integration in terms of hours
Yeah I know but I don't have a mount yet and I just have my camera! Are you saying that what I have is of no use?
no you can always pull out detail
but you can always just take more photos
i don't have a tracker so i shoot hundreds if not thousands of shots of the same thing
So you constantly move the framing?
nope. only every few minutes
Yep that's what I meant. I am capturing remotely from the camera which is about 200m away to be clear of obstructions. It takes approx. 10 secs or so to capture and then download the image. So the 50 images took approx. 500 seconds. Orion had moved considerably across in that time. I am just learning the dynamics of this. I could cut the time down by probably just using an intervalometer at the camera no uploading of the image just locally stored on the camera card and downloaded manually later. Is that what you do?
Sorry that is with the 1.5 sec exposure time.
I see amazing pictures with 135mm lenses being shown. The stars are tiny at that focal length when I setup.
In total it is 1.8GB of data zipped up.
welp, got done shooting, another almost 40gb of data to add to my collection 
I am now a bit confused, All of the exposure calculators said that 1.5 seconds was correct for 135mm F5.6 lens pointing at Orion for my camera sensor pixel sizes etc. I took 50 exposures light dark etc. Siril has produced a result.fit file but has excluded 34 of the 50 Light images it looks like due to registration issues with the script.
23:14:14: Sequence processing partially succeeded, with 34 images that failed and that were temporarily excluded from the sequence.
23:14:14: Execution time: 1 min 38 s.
23:14:14: Registration finished.
23:14:14: 50 images processed.
23:14:14: Total: 34 failed, 16 registered.
I have manually skipped through all 50 images and the same stars are always in the frame albeit moving across the frame left to right. So I guess 68% of the light data I have is excluded from the final result.fit file.
How can I improve this?
Cheers
have you tried using deepskystacker?
I don't use windows and don't have a windows machine.
Maybe manually processing the images in Siril and then doing manual registration of the images if that is possible.
That’s probably a better idea yeah
ah ok, i dont have a lot of experience with siril, ive mostly used astap and dss
Ok thanks. More reading I think.
Do you use Siril?
I do yes
This is what I currently see in Siril after the script is finished.
That is with 34 out of 50 lights thrown away.
The only bright star I think we lose out of frame is Rigel towards the end of the run.
So to manually do this. Close Siril, delete the result.fit delete the process directory and start again.
Is the sequence?
Conversion of the Raw to a fit sequence then pre process then register manually.
The worst thing I done possibly 🤣
Used a Kit lens to shoot from a B7
Didn't stack the comet
1hr5mins of data
45+ mins of images were deleted due to focus
Yeah don't use scripts
Are you the one I told that I'll make a tutorial soon?
D5300 + 200mm kitlens. About 20 mins and a 3 min edit in siril this morning before work. Will try a better job tonight!
Any tips on processing Andromeda? First time doing this one. I guess using starnet ++ wil also help
Yes. It was the first clear night in about a week super cold. This is all new to me concepts, dynamics, processes. In the time I had I shot 50 1.5 sec 1600 iso images of Orion. 135mm lens f5 darks, bias, flats. What came out was worse than I could see with my 7x50 binoculars! I think the exposure calculators were saying 1.5 secs per shot but in reality that was nowhere near enough. In total 75 seconds of exposure. I followed this guide (https://siril.org/tutorials/tuto-manual/) to manually process the DBFL files and now have biases_stacked.fit darks_stacked.fit pp_flats_stacked.fit pp_lights_stacked.fit files. I think I could see a lot more with my naked eyes!
This has not discouraged me, just made me more determined to understand how to get the kind of images even if not at the same level of detail as you guys. I am keen to learn.
I take my hat off to you guys that are producing amazing shots untracked with unbelievable detail. I am pretty sure its not my D200 that is the issue 😉 Like the one above of Andromeda D5300 + 200mm kitlens. About 20 mins and a 3 min edit in siril. I was processing in Siril for a good couple of hours. BTW what is a 'kitlens'?
Questions:
Do you all capture just at the camera and then transfer files later or do you capture remotely?
On my 18-200mm lens when set at 135mm the point between being in or out of focus is an unbelievably small amount of movement on the focus ring. Do you all focus manually?
It's completely normal, you're learning as we all did...
I'll mention you when the guide will be done!
A kitlens is the lens that comes with cameras and is always.... Shtty
I have an astrocam so I capture with my pc
And manual focus is the only good way in astro (except with a dedicated autofocuser but you don't have that)
Thanks. Also my 'kitlens' is a 18-200mm f3.5-f5.6 lens so is quite slow. I think I need to do a lot more trial and error on the exposure lengths. 1.5 secs was clearly nowhere near enough at 135mm f5.6 following the logic then a minimum of 6 secs compared to a f2.8 lens.
I got decent results at f6.3 with similar exposures if I remember well
Also the difference between 1.5s and 6s isn't huge
If you have the opportunity to buy a fix focal lenght fast lens, do it
You can probably find a second hand one for ~200€ that will be a LOT better than your kit lens
Just trying to use what I have to start off and get the absolute best out of it before spending money.
Of course of course! That's the right way to do it
'Persistance is omnipotent'
What Focal Length?
50mm
Yep
that's some gathering power, damn
YOu guys must have the eye of a hawk to focus sharp at 50mm
Yeah I can't wait to test it with my 224 mc
I'll probably have to stop it down to f2 though
Dare I ask how much?
Yes.
Looks like this would be the only lens they have for Nikon F for my D200. https://rokinon.com/collections/manual-focus/products/135mm-f2-0-full-frame-telephoto
Buy 135mm F2.0 Full Frame Telephoto at Rokinon Lenses! The Rokinon 135mm F2.0 ED UMC Lens is a manual focus telephoto prime lens useful for portraiture and most telephoto applications. Its fast f/2.0 maximum aperture is effective in low light and enables shallow depth of field control. With a rounded 9-blade diaphragm, shallow depth of field ima...
Thats 3 full stops faster than my 18-200mm at 135mm!
Maybe try and find one of these https://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/135mm-f2.htm
It's a really well reputated lens
QC though
quality control
not sure
It's weird because I saw this mentioned nowhere else
I tested my lens and it's great! Really sharp even at f 1.2
There's a bit of coma on one side though
Not a problem for what I plan to do and it disappear at f2.8
No ca visible except on the brightest stars
I'm happy 
Single 60 sec iso1600 18mm f3.5
Pretty blurry. The Mily Way is between Procyon and Betelgeuse not that you can see it. Apart from blurry does this look over or underexposed?
Really dark sky... This is a completely unedited 30s exposure of my Xoami Redmi Note 8 pro at ISO3200.
Andromeda is clearly visible.
That's amazing. A modern smartphone vs 17year old Nikon D200 I am struggling with.
untracked rosette in bortle 8
Can you share your imaging settings for this. Focal Length, f stop, Exp, Iso etc. As I am learning and wanting to understand.
300mm f5.6 1.6" 3200ISO
How many subs?
2300
Over an hour! How many times would you recentre the image. Is this using an intervalometer?
because this target is so dim an hour is barely enough. i might try getting more data as the skies clear up
Thank you for the extra info it helps. What camera are you using and are you using a EQ mount?
no tracking. just a camera and a tripod
nikon d750 and tamron 70/300 lens
with a tracker you could easily get the rosette
That is a long lens. f5.6 is the same as my 200mm 18-200 DX lens.
I am just finishing a wide field 18mm f3.5 session. 20 30 sec exposures iso 3200. I am hoping I can get something usable from it. I know I need longer!
we all start somewhere
Sorry, a few more questions. So your process would be to frame, focus using live view and a bhatinov mask? Then shoot using intervalometer. Download later?
i would frame, then focus by eye (no mask although i desperately need one) and shoot with an intervalomeyer
what do you mean by download later?
Download the images from the SDCARD(s) later. I am currently capturing by remote control of the camera. Each image is captured and uploaded to my network automatically. But cycle time is a little slow.. I am using Kstars/Ekos/Indi to setup the shooting session then execute it.
The camera is controlled by a raspberry pi which I have on my tripod and a usb connection.
yea i use an SD card that i just move all at once later
What tripod do you use. 3 way or 2 way. I need a new Photography tripod and looking for recommendations as there are so many.
i use the manfrotto 190X
Would you buy it again?
i didn't buy it. all my gear is just my fathers that i'm using
but definitely you can get a sturdier tripod for like 200
Currently looking for one of these. DR-6 Right Angle Viewfinder Attachment
my attempt at heart nebula, untracked unmodded b7. not exactly an easy target.
A for effort man
I mean im happy that i resolved the structure at all, basically everything working against me
what was your integration?
Looking forward to the results!
My first target will be heart nebula!
The next we hopefully
Its possible. I already tried it, and it was really good visible, but it isn't so colourful, because I only had 40min of exposure time.
What was your camera?
I don't think it's that important, but I have a unmodded Nikon Z50. I think more important was, that my lens is at F1.8...
Given this is untracked which is my current mission. How are you guys working out the exposure per sub? Given you can't really see the end result until processes. Are you using a specific formula or calculator?
I captured 40 minutes of Cygnus data last night, A friend will be stacking it later. I'll post in here when it's done.
OK thanks ! Because I have an astro cam so I think the ir sensitivity will help me quite a lot
F2 too
And your result looks nice!
Nice, that should you help a lot.
Thanks
The longest sub exposure you can get without trails
Should 40 minutes untracked unmodded reveal much dust?
What's your équipement ?
Except if you do eyepiece projection you can use the npf rule
I'm afraid it won't show a lot of details but we'll see...
I once tried ~20min at f2 and it wasn't great
I just hope that NAN is visible and maybe a bit of dust around Sadr
So heuristics? Take a shot and keep extending the time until stars start elongating?
What is eye piece projection?
This is my first time shooting Cygnus, so this is mostly just teseting the waters
I think it's projecting whatever is in your eyepiece onto a piece of paper or something similar. I might be wrong.
I used the NPF rule and calculators for my first ever attempt and I think it was a bust. One of the kind processing forum members is looking at the data I posted a link to (https://discord.com/channels/794642864218439681/1074798610237116508) to see if there is any useful information at all.
I thought this was related to telescopes. I don't have one. Just a DSLR with a 18-200mm f3.5-5.6 zoom. I am trying to get hold of a Nikon DR-6 which is a 90 degree viewfinder with 1-2x mag to assist with focusing as I do not have a live view camera.
It's when you take a pic of your eyepiece with your phone are camera+lens
Oh but you don't have a scope
So it's not what you do
N olive view no scope just a 18-200mm lens. I like the idea of getting my phone camera to pretend to be my eyeball though! How might that work?
I have an idea? See post in 3d printer shortly.
guys hows this?
Nice:) what equipment?
I cleaned it up a bit for you
4.5 in reflector and an old android (oppo f1f)
thanks
On Linux you should use Siril
Ummm dslr and telescope. Ye
Yes using Siril and following or trying to the tutorials they provided without much luck. The old adages are still as true today as ever. Garbage in Garbage out! Need to work on acquisition.
untracked?
Yeah, it's my process of LMC's data
can u please tell me how?
i would kill my self to get a mount if u just tell me how or is there a tutorial on youtube
Just a whole lotta subs with a good camera.
I have a uranus c. Using a dslr will be very bad. You’ll burn through 10-25% of your cameras total lifespan per target.
using sharpcap right ?
Yup
You want a shutterless mirrorless camera. Any half decent astrocam will do
Uranus c is nice because it’s a large sensor for its price
I’ve seen good results from that camera
the method of stacking using live stack right?
Finding targets will be harder and it’s a little noisier but it works
Nah don’t live stack. Record as a .ser file and stack after.
raw
and when the object start to dissapear u pause it
Yup then reframe. Then start recording again. If you hand track the target as opposed to letting it drift it works better. Otherwise you get walking noise.
If you have steady enough hands you don’t notice the blurring.
but i think when the pic stack on deepskystacker , the pic will look bad bec there are pic that will look different from the other in the body on the screen
because the body moving
can u show me a photo for u without tracker of galaxy or nebula
3
About 10-20 mins on most targets. Sombrero was two nights so 50 mins.
60-130ms subs. Depending on target declination.
how i stack a video?
You record as ser. Then use astrosurface. You can also record as video but ser is faster.
can i use deepskystacker?
wow
It’s very far from ideal no.
tried some untracked AP last night, I'm convinced it's impossible - full respect to all of you people 😄

the struggles are real
I think I'll stick to my mount for now 😅
What would you recommend then? Astropixelprocessor?
Astrosurface
Thanks, I never heard that before, but then I have to try that.
Astrosurface is for planet
And dso
i put a SER files on Astrosurface its so hard to use and there is no video tutorial on youtube
idont know how to stack
@strange seal ur better at explaining then me
can u tell me pls how to use Astrosurface to stack
it seems u can use pipp also
Pipp dosent stack just aligns
Open the ser then go to the stacking tab. Click global alignment and set the number of stars to however many you can count. Click set ref then stack.
i cant found stacking tab
u mean register
when i click on register it show me a screen to add darks and flats and stack but i cant click on stack
i found it
thank u man !
Is all that untracked???????
Yes
in untracked i have to take small exposures due to which there are less stars for stacking what do u guys do to counter this ?
I think there are mostly still enough stars for stacking. It could get only critical, if you do really short exposures with a small aperture. I also don't think the stacker uses all stars for stacking, so it shouldn't be the problem.
What do you mean with ‘ser’?
its a file ending, .ser
Can’t do that with a regular camera I guess?
im not sure
Untracked orion nebula 4 min exposure bortle 8
Can you provide capture info. Lens F stop iso etc.
Actually idont know the iso but i have a 700x76 telescope with zwo 224 camera any thing else i dont know ary
Sry
Hey thanks. I am just starting out so collecting info on settings and results.
Yes
It’s astrocams only. Also don’t use a dslr for this type of photography
Finna burn through 10-25% of your cameras total lifespan
gotta pluck out that mirror
ok thanks
your tarantula looks very nice! 
Just under 40 minutes of data untracked and unmodded.
Any tips or advice?
@upper pasture this is pretty nice! At what Iso and f ratio were you shooting?
It was 1600 ISO, at f/4.5
I was using an 18-55 kit lens so its not the fastest
I also had to crop pretty harshly due to poor recentering
For this f ratio it's petty good
What astro cam do you have?
Uranus C. IMX 585.
Ah that looks great, should have invested in that instead of a dslr
I am amazed at this. I am struggling with my NIkon D200 and Kit 18-200 f3.5-5.6 lens to get anything useful. My next opportunity will be Monday evening. I tried various exposures. Last one just to see what I could catch with this lens was 50 x 30 sec exposures 18mm f3.5 3200 iso this is what I see when I open a single exposure in ASTAP or Siril etc.
Data:
Heres the data:
SIMPLE = T / FITS header
BITPIX = 16 / Bits per entry
NAXIS = 2 / Number of dimensions
NAXIS1 = 3899 / Length of x axis
NAXIS2 = 2616 / Length of y axis
EXPTIME = 30 / Exposure time in seconds
JD = 2459990.45452546 / [Julian Day] The start time of the exposure
DATE-OBS= '2023-02-14T22:54:31.000' / [UTC] The start time of the exposure
CCD-TEMP= 999 / Sensor or camera temperature
GAIN = 3200 / ISO speed
DATAMAX = 3827 / Max value where still linear
DATAMAX2= 3827
DATAMAX3= 3827
DATAMAX4= 3827
APERTURE= 3 / Lens aperture
FOCALLEN= 18 / Focal length lens
CAMMAKER= 'Nikon'
INSTRUME= 'D200'
TELESCOP= ''
FILT-PAT= 'GRBGGRBGGRBGGRBG' / Filter pattern
BAYERPAT= 'GRBG' / Bayer color pattern
IMG_FLIP= 0
COMMENT Raw conversion by LibRaw-with-16-bit-FITS-support. www.hnsky.org
Pretty sure I need to focus more precisely almost impossible at 18mm lens and shorter ~5secs x hundreds maybe.
What do you all think?
some edits on topaz gigapixels this software is so amazing
Eh topaz isn't well reputeted among astrophotographs
It uses IA but it's not trained on astro pics so it creates false details (if I remember right)
You can use AstroDenoisePY instead
topaz denoise maybe better than gigapixels
is it free?
yes pls
i think it was pinned in some channel
It's not as good as NoiseX but still does the job with a bit of trial and error
And it's free
ty
why i cant lunch it
how to download it
?
in assets click the first one (if you are in windows), then after that run the installer and install it
i do that
but i dont find the program
i download it but i cant found it in the desktop
same thing
open
i havent tried
AstroDenoisePY doesnt lunch for me any one have a software for noise
It worked for me by installing all the dependencies
with me is nothing happend right
like it opens and closes right?
no i dont find it
the software
when i click on it it start download from first
andromeda galaxy with a old lens camera with zwo224 with bortle 8
30 min untracked
now this is cool, i had no idea there was denoise ai. noiseX is paid right?
What program works best to stabilize and stack untracked DSO targets? Got a little data on orion, but haven't stacked deep sky before
Does PIPP work for deep sky stabilizing?
Deep Sky Stacker or for short DSS will be your best choice
Got it, will that stabilize too? Or just stack?
also stabilise. It will make your life a lot easier :D
i highly recommend the video I send you
Ah great! That's really helpful!
yeah Rawtherapy is def much better
Unfortunately DSS didn't really seem to work, I shot Orion but need to stabilize the video before stacking. Is there any program that can easily do this?
What is it?
@dusty gull Do you possibly know what stabilizing / stacking program I should use to stack DSO? I recorded the raw8 footage in .AVI
siril or astrosurface prob
same data (different stack tho) without and with denoise. it's a very big difference!
It didn’t even touch the noise inside m42 tho ?
they're different stacks, but it did a bit, you can see a lot more detail
although it didn't remove the red noise, i'm guessing because that's to not delete actual data, if i used calibrations that wouldn't be there
i'm still very happy
Hm mind giving the stack ? I can run denoise
also i'm still testing denoise, this was done after stretching, i'm now trying before stretching (image stack is sending)
sure, it's pretty bad tho
(don't know if i should send it any other way)
doing before doesn't seem to work as well
I personally use siril but I know some use astrosurface
Oh thanks, I'll take a look at it
Gotcha, I tried both of them a few minutes ago and astrosurface worked best for me
I never tried it, what worked Better?


