Digimon V-Pet GO

[vapid belfry]

USPS and FedEx only wanted to show, like, Next Day Delivery options. Trying to squeeze every nickel and dime ofc. But anyway I found out it’s actually not that much. But still shipping would be like anywhere from $20-$30.

But again, I’m waiting on some parts.

In particular; the gyroscope, the ESP32 board, batteries, and sanding tools

I already got the paint and primer and stuff

In the meantime I’ve been working on the Pendulum style shell, I’m hoping to have it done within a week but we’ll see.

[simple heart]

Couple of questions I wanted to ask after scrolling around cause this is amazing:

Is there a way to use custom sprites?

Why are there only 2 buttons?

Can this be used for the game w0rld?

I do not have any soldering knowledge, is there a way to purchase a complete unit?

[worthy sail]

how do yall get the piezo and the mpu to fit

where does it go

[thin sail]

Yes, you can add custom sprites.
Cause T-Displays have only 2 buttons, but like the VB you can hold down a button to go back/exit a menu.
No support to W0rld.

[thin sail]

I sent a picture, scrow up and you will find it.

[worthy sail]

is it this image

i see the image above it of how its connected

do you put it above the lilygo?

[thorn arrow]

DM me

[thin sail]

Yep

[vapid belfry]

I’m gonna try to find a way to put the back cover on with self-tapping screws for the Pendulum shell model, the little clamps that hold the back on are a bit annoying.

[vapid belfry]

Added you

[autumn bay]

glue?

[vapid belfry]

I feel like the device should be easier to open and close without glueing it, but you could still glue the back on. Could make a back plate model with and without the screw holes, that would be easy enough.

[thin sail]

Also, coming in the next update.
Brand new Quest Mode with updated graphics and a lot of new Digimon to fight against and get a lot of EXP:

[fringe jackal]

Digital Monster X/Pendulum Color

[fringe jackal]

But this was the avatar I was working on I originally for my character

It’s called the sorrows egg

It was based on the pendulum cycle egg

This is not my original version of it

[worthy sail]

are the batteries that yall use rechargable or do you switch them out

[shadow ibex]

they are lithium ion

they recharge

[worthy sail]

ah alr

[narrow ridge]

How can I add custom sprites? Because I Like Ancient Series Digimon. So if I can add sprites I will add ancient series. 🙂

[simple agate]

@narrow ridge has leveled up! (1 ➜ 2)

[verbal siren]

Sweet

[fringe jackal]

Awesome

[median oyster]

The T-Display has a charging circuit as well so if you install a 3.7V LiPo and connect it via the provided connector it charges via USB. I'm getting approx. 6 days from a full charge.

[rustic yarrow]

My digimon evolved into Turuiemon. But on the stats screen for it, it shows the next evolution as None

[coral beacon]

Have you met the requirements for any of its next evolutions?

[rustic yarrow]

Why didn't I think about this?! It only has one evolution which requires battling. It has just evolved so I didn't battle yet.

[coral beacon]

This option shows the evolution it will undergo; if you haven't met the requirements, then it won't show anything

[simple agate]

SHINKA!

@coral beacon has evolved into Child!

[rustic yarrow]

Since I started using this device, there has always been something there. This was the first time there was nothing so I thought something was broken

[coral beacon]

Have you ever created an adult-level Digimon before, or is this your first time using this device? Because the previous levels always have a predetermined evolution, so it's normal that an option always appears

[rustic yarrow]

I did raise one until it reached Ultimate. I think I just never noticed this.

[thin sail]

Because you need to fight at least 15 times and have a 70%+ winratio

[thin sail]

It's because if you fight in Baby 2 stage, or Child stage, it counts

[autumn bay]

1000mah?

[rustic yarrow]

I have a 1200mAh battery and it can run for way over a week.
A 1000mAh should be enough.

Actually, it should run for 2 weeks or more based on my unofficial observations

[worthy sail]

is the project code open source or is only rurounik working on it

[vapid belfry]

Yeah my Devimon says “None” too, it’s just that I haven’t spent enough time battling it, or alternatively I have not Jogressed it with another

If I had the Digimon to Jogress it to LadyDevimon I could then Jogress to Mastemon with Angewomon from NSp

[thin sail]

It's just me.
It's closed, for now.

[vapid belfry]

Yeah I haven’t charged mine in a while and it is still going. It’s been at least 7 days but then again I only check it to take care of it. I have been too busy in Blender lately. It’s like at 50%

I believe mine is 1200mAh

Nope, 1000mAh

All my other Digimon devices are in backup or EEPROM reset atm

But yeah either way this thing uses very little power if you aren’t using it much

If you charged it for 30-60 minutes a day it would probably never die

[thin sail]

With balanced usage it can go up to 15 days with a single charge.
But my battery is a 1500mah model.

[thin sail]

Now you can send all your pets to NacaStorage for saving purpose... It's working fine now

[vapid belfry]

Great things happening at the Unemployment Factory

[fringe jackal]

[thin sail]

Holy cow

[shadow ibex]

Very coop, but wouldn't it be interesting in adapting it to support an 18650?

[vapid belfry]

The case might be a little chunky if you had to make it any bigger but idk maybe

I’m not sure how big that battery is off the top of my head

At the very least I believe due to the bevels it now can house a slightly larger battery

The battery itself should probably stay at 10mm thick, leaving about 11mm of space on the inside

For the depth

104040 batteries do exist and they range from 1800-2500mAh from a quick search

Idk if the right battery end is available

[shadow ibex]

103050s don't exist?

[vapid belfry]

They likely do. But on the original drdo DMC-style model it can be hard to put the clamps in the holes that hold the backplate on. That’s why I may try to put hole for self tapping screws on the back instead of the clamps, and/or create a version where you can glue the back on securely

We can now use more different sizes of batteries thanks to the bevel

[shadow ibex]

If you can, make it so that you don't have to sand down the esp32

[vapid belfry]

And the MPU chip can slide in on the bottom bevel

[shadow ibex]

I had to file my board antenna

[vapid belfry]

Since I won’t be making a space for the bottom prongs

[vapid belfry]

You mean the part where the prongs go or?

[shadow ibex]

No

Its that my tenstar t-display was a bit larger than the case

So I had to file the pcb

[vapid belfry]

Oh oki

[shadow ibex]

Length wise

[vapid belfry]

Question do you got a caliper on hand and the board?

[shadow ibex]

No

Tho one sec

[vapid belfry]

Ah it’s oki. I can probably find the dimensions for it

Oki

[shadow ibex]

He encontrado esto en AliExpress:
TENSTAR t-display ESP32-D0WD CH9102 Chip 16MB WiFi y placa de desarrollo de módulo Compatible con Bluetooth Control LCD de 1,14 pulgadas
https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJhdmry

This is the one rurounik recommends, maybe the design should be around this board

If it helps, it's about 2mm larger than the regular t-display length wise and 1mm height wise

[vapid belfry]

Wow yeah that’s a big difference.

Does it change the screen placement/button or is it that the little black part at the end sticking out that’s got all the extra length?

[shadow ibex]

Same placement

[vapid belfry]

That’s good to hear at least. I can just add the extra space to the Lilygo dimensions

[shadow ibex]

All I did to make it fit was trim about 1mm of board and a bit on the antenna corners

[vapid belfry]

Oki I’ll work towards it, thanks for letting me know.

[shadow ibex]

Np

[vapid belfry]

I’ll move it 1mm on each side so that there is room for other stuff we may want to add as well. Perhaps a thicker piezo in the future

I’ll release the STL one I get stuff like the charging hole finished, if anyone would like to do test prints. My Ender-3 V3 SE is still not setup atm

I would like to avoid the clamp design as much as possible tho cuz I’ve had it pop off my device too many times

The charging hole is annoying btw I’m still trying to figure out what I have to learn to make it

I really only started using blender like 5-7 days ago

[vapid belfry]

I am remembering I cannot do this to each side thanks to the charging hole

Just one side

[thin sail]

When I got my t displays the only thing I did was sand it the sides cause the PCb is rough. And sand the 3D USB C a little and it fits perfectly.

[vapid belfry]

Original internal length was 50.Xish mm. New one is 52

Might look a little long on one side

[thin sail]

And the best thing to do is look for the cheapest compatible model at the time:

Acabei de encontrar isso no AliExpress:
Placa de Desenvolvimento T-Display ESP32 com LCD de 1.14 Polegadas, Módulo WiFi Bluetooth para Arduino
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mP9TXqZ

[thin sail]

Here I got the same size:

[median oyster]

Yeah im using a 1000mAh

[fringe jackal]

That’s kind of big

The other one comes with Wi-Fi

[vapid belfry]

It’s almost ready for test printing but yeah it was actually easy to figure out the charging port after gutting my device. Punching this hole is gonna take some extra measuring of the shell I have so I’m taking a long break, may not be done today, I need to be certain it goes in the right spot.

My resistors are probably gonna snap off when I finally get the prongs out of the holes

[worthy sail]

i made a list of links for anyone wanting to order the needed parts

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mP9TXqZ - T-Display ESP32

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJhdmry - Alternative link T-Display ESP32 option, Rurounik recommended

https://a.aliexpress.com/_c43kCG6R - 1500mAh Lipo Battery

https://he.aliexpress.com/item/1005009195493526.html - Piezo Speakers

https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010210639478.html - Alternative Piezo Speaker option, Rurounik recommended

https://aliexpress.com/item/1005010057794277.html - MPU6050

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mt3Olxx - 1/8W +-1% 5.6k ohm resistors | For DRDO's DMC shell you'll need Two 3.9k ohm resistor (preferably 1/6W-1/8W size)
Two 5.6k ohm resistor (also 1/6W-1/8W size works best)
You can reduce it to 1 of each resistor by not soldering the bottom prongs. They're for the mono-color adapter and might not even be part of future shells (won't be in Pendulum Shell)

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLo1PA1 - Nickel strip

please lmk if im missing anything, ill add it to he list

[vapid belfry]

Pretty damn smooth imo. Turning it into an STL added a lot of geometry but hopefully it should print. But tell me how this goes. Size is in MM.

Reminder, this is just a prototype. Idk how you would print it or what orientation works best

[vapid belfry]

You can reduce the amount of resistors by not soldering the bottom prongs btw. Just 1 of each resistor should be oki. I mentioned it only because it’s necessary if you want to still use DRDO’s DMC shell and you want to use the mono-color adapter. The Pendulum shell will not have bottom prongs.

I should have added that bit of information back then when I listed the parts off

[worthy sail]

i see

ill update the list

[vapid belfry]

Check the wiring guide I posted a while ago also, it should tell you where your single 3.9k and single 5.6k ohm resistors need to go for the top prongs

[worthy sail]

i tried to make it a bit more organized and easier to read

but god forbid discord adds tabbing to messages

[vapid belfry]

It’s all good I feel you

I’m surprised the top prongs remained attached but yeah I am gonna have to leave mine gutted for a while for more measurements. I’ve carved my trenner a bit in the past to bring the wires through as well as when I was putting the keyring on.

So the trenner will probably have holes or grooves where the top prongs should come through for convenience

[fringe jackal]

OK, is it possible for me to modify just adding the Pendalin function in the shaker?

[vapid belfry]

Yeah you can cut the trenner short in the DMC model and put it there. That’s what Rurounik showed us

For the Pendulum shell (I can’t really call it pendulum color since it has a few differences) it will have a little extra space, about 5mm, in the bottom bevel (each bevel added about that much space)

[fringe jackal]

Thank you

so the shake function in the little noise rattle can fit if I make them small enough

[vapid belfry]

For now, in the DMC shell, you can make the buttons slightly thinner like Rurounik said and it will make a little rattle. But yeah I’m gonna work on making a little shaker to add that you can 3D print

But for now I still have the finer details to finish and the buttons to add

[fringe jackal]

I figure out the price to use blender on. It might hate me after afterwards, but it might work.

The steam deck

[vapid belfry]

Ah I’m just using my Surface Pro 4

It can handle simple models with less than probably 10k faces

This one is actually p simple

It has a touchscreen but I only use it when connecting my ESP32 since it has one USB port

I found out the touch screen is very useless for blender

The SP4 costed me I think $130 or $170 in the past? It does basic stuff at least

2-4GB of RAM is good enough for basically a throwaway computer

[fringe jackal]

I already own it. It’s the entry model before they start manufacturing the day after.

[vapid belfry]

Ah oki

[fringe jackal]

It’s the last entry model Manufacture before the had the parts issues

[thin sail]

Piezo A6(25mm) is in stock

[thin sail]

The buttons can be the same size, just trim the button holes to make more space

[vapid belfry]

Ah oki

I’m gonna make the buttons a little bigger on the pendulum shell tho, like how the Pen’s buttons are anyway

[thin sail]

But now that the Shakes have color feedback, that's not needed, but it's a nice feature to have

[thin sail]

That would be awesome

[worthy sail]

oh i was looking at the 20mm and 23mm ill update it thanks

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #125 - 18)

[rustic yarrow]

For all of you who had to trim your pcb, have you considered that it could be from your printer?
I wouldn't say my printer is well calibrated but I didn't really have to trim mine to make it fit.

[vapid belfry]

Was yours the Lilygo or Tenstar board?

I don’t have a Tenstar on hand but my Lilygo is like 51.4mm

I’m glad I bought the caliper it makes it way easier to measure more accurately

[rustic yarrow]

I have the Lilygo. It is also 51.4mm

[vapid belfry]

The Tenstar is the one atm that is said to be slightly larger.

I got 3 Tenstar boards otw, should be May 8th-17th

[vapid belfry]

Once I get the actual model in hand I’ll measure it and everything

The Tenstar board I mean

Oh yeah other thing

The shell will have holes to put a keychain through

So it can look more like a Digimon device

I would recommend jump rings tho

They are easier to put in than a keyring

From there you can attach a chain to the jump ring instead, and they can be manipulated with needle nose pliers

Or ig at least you can attach a charm

[vapid belfry]

After probably an hour of nonsense I got my V3 SE updated and built

[fringe jackal]

I still have original pendulum parts

[fringe jackal]

Hey, what does PSC?

I tried to order more batteries because I’m making multiple models for testing

[vapid belfry]

I have no idea, is this an electrical thing or?

I found a couple different things that match the abbreviation

[vapid belfry]

Oh pieces. That’s how many you get I believe.

[fringe jackal]

Thank you

I’m watching avengers

[vapid belfry]

Ah oki

I thought maybe it was part of the listing image ngl

Until I looked at it closer

[fringe jackal]

2012

[vapid belfry]

I just hope it's right before I punch the holes (I do have a backup at least). The dimensions are slightly different from the original DMC style shell so atp it's becoming a sort of like "vibe-modeling" with the buttons.

If you print this and anything is too off, lmk. It should work with the original buttons, but the button tips themselves will be a bit larger once I make them. Size should be in MM, around 38x54x23mm I believe. Can't fully remember off the top of my head. I'm gonna work on the frame that goes around the screen now.

Well actually I'm gonna take a break for a while today but might hop on later. All that measuring gets overwhelming

I forgot about the little bezels on the top and bottom edges actually

So ig I gotta do that next

[vapid belfry]

This is gonna be more of a challenge than I thought, looked easier in my head

[simple agate]

@vapid belfry has leveled up! (15 ➜ 16)

[vapid belfry]

Slowly getting there...I imported jyoshi's thingiverse model to help me see how to make it.

Still have to change certain dimensions and the PenC frame has hooks/clamps on the bottom that I'm not even gonna both with trying to remove

This should be easy to print when I’m done but idk

It’s like 4mm thick

The walls are, the actual depth is only about 2mm

[verbal siren]

Ah boo, batteries I got said JST but I guess it's a different one, oh well, gonna have to solder anyways

[fringe jackal]

I think this might be an order

For a jst connector kit

https://a.co/d/09E8Q8Xj

[fringe jackal]

Question, how big is the case?

[vapid belfry]

Ah lemme double check rq. I can’t remember off the top of my head

External dimensions are 54ish mm by 33mm by 22ish mm

Walls are roughly 2 mm thick

So you can subtract 4 from all those values

Or subtract 3

Cuz it’s like kinda around 1.5mm thick

So about 51-52mm by 30mm by 19 mm internal

For the Pendulum shell, it’s like 52mm by 40 mm by 20 mm.

I believe

Actually lemme double check that 40mm measurement rq

It’s only 34.8mm. But the T-Display board only takes up about 24ish mm of that space

I need to add the things that hold the board in place

To fully realize all the extra space available

[fringe jackal]

I’m just asking so I can make my decision to the battery and get it

I just discovered some and tools for it

[vapid belfry]

103040 is the standard atm, or you could probably do 13050 or 104040

Latter two may fit in the pendulum shell

[thin sail]

Pendulum Color gameplay implemented
DMX system implemented with new animations
13 Stages in Quest Mode
Dynamic Backgrounds in Quest Mode
Brand new Food Interface
A lot of bug fixes

[fringe jackal]

I’m questioning

From the listing

[verbal siren]

I'm over it, the board came with the appropriate connector and I've got a soldering iron and heat wrap

[fringe jackal]

Sorry,

I hope the wrong type of batteries and I’m not trying to change them out for something else. This is already over budget for me.

I am paying $80 for all the parts involved into multiple

I’m currently at work talking to my coworkew

So see you guys later

[vital helm]

Guys, let's get to work

[fringe jackal]

I forgot the wine

[buoyant surge]

https://c.tenor.com/Bqvc7gXarOgAAAAC/i-think-you-should-leave-capital-room.gif

[fringe jackal]

?

[vapid belfry]

Boom

[dusky ravine]

https://tenor.com/view/kiss-hands-i-love-it-perfect-very-nice-kiss-gif-15498084

[vapid belfry]

The frame really brings it all together. But for now I'm just using the frame to punch the indent in it.

[vapid belfry]

P close to being done

I’ll smooth it out near the end

Also I had a good idea for the MPU 6050. Ofc after you have everything soldered, you can install two 2.5mm diameter pins with glue to go through the 2 holes in the board

It makes it a bit more modular

Or whatever the word is

More customizable/flexible

Reduces shaking the thing around

[fringe jackal]

[vapid belfry]

I’ve seen a few MPU6050s and they range from 20mm by 15mm to larger sizes

[vapid belfry]

For the pendulum case only, idk if the DMC could do this

I’ll design the holding pins when I do the buttons tho, they’ll look similar to buttons but slightly smaller. And ofc have flat heads to prevent movement

[vital helm]

No matter how many battles I win, EXP points stop increasing and remain at 10.

[fringe jackal]

It’s a life

I don’t know where I was. I’m going with this.

[thin sail]

GOD DAM

[thin sail]

lvl cap exists.
DMX manual explains level cap by Stage, being lvl 10 max for Stage 6 and 7

[vital helm]

Understood

[vapid belfry]

I got the trenner and buttons + holding pins for the MPU6050 (not shown) finished, all that’s left now is for me to test print everything once I get my Tenstar boards. The trenner will stay the same size but be held in place by walls extending from inside the base. I’ll leave a little open area on each side to allow for wires and resistor legs to pass through. But the board itself will essentially be sealed off from everything else.

Everything will be finalized when I know that I have every measurement correct

Coming soon also; screw hole fixtures/alternative back plate that snaps into the holes

[proper belfry]

It started as one, now it’s two 😂

[vapid belfry]

Digivice Mitosis

[vapid belfry]

I had to do a lot of fixing on the shell cuz of those grip ridges I made. Nothing would bevel right

Check it out now tho

It took a while to fix cuz I had no backups for once

I couldn’t sleep anyway so I got to work with it and came up with a solution

I still have like 20 or more vertices to manually merge together cuz of this mistake

Even had to redo the back plate entirely but that was easy

[thin sail]

MPU needs to be fixed vertically inside the shell. In the same position I did in that picture.

[thin sail]

This is awesome... With screws this thing will be so much better

[humble storm]

Looks like you got the right kind of connector but just the wrong size. JST comes in two different sizes: 2mm and 1.25mm.

[verbal siren]

Oh well, I may not be any good at soldering but I should at least be able to handle this

[humble storm]

Awesome work. I haven’t even had time to touch any cad software. Been real busy with work. Glad that you were able to hash out such a nice one.

Once you finish, I might remix it with an additional reset button and slot for an on and off switch.

[vapid belfry]

I considered that. You’d need to make the button kinda long now tho

The distance from the reset button to the top is now like an extra 4mm

Yk what actually

It might just work

I had to take my soldering tip and melt a hole in my DMC style model to get to the reset hole

A hole at the very least would be convenient

[vapid belfry]

Laying flat on the bottom of the shell should work too if it just needs to read the movement of the X/Y axis right?

I’ll show you the space I’m talking about I created for it

Oh yeah I did get two holes done also

I’ll do the rest when I get a final measurement of the Tenstar T-Display

[vapid belfry]

Also yeah 104040 ain’t fitting in this thing like expected, I would go for 103050 if you want something with more battery capacity. Just a heads up.

I see a lot of listings and 1600mAh is the norm for that size

[autumn bay]

You are taking an intensive course in 3D design

[vapid belfry]

Yeah I’m enrolled at Search Engine Academy

[vapid belfry]

Basically if I don’t know how to do something, like there’s something I want to bevel but it’s at a difficult angle, I’ll just go look it up or work it out until I get it right

[vapid belfry]

My puter won’t let me take a screen shot probably because the scene collection is getting too complex

[vapid belfry]

Oh yeah the self tapping screws will probably be 2mm by 3-4mm if you wanna get ready for that

The head is 3-4mm the screw itself is 2mm

You can use plastic threading screws probably too

Or just glue the back on

Won’t have to worry about threading the back plate holes, that hole will be wide enough to let the screw slide through

[fringe jackal]

I’m at Michael’s center

Micro Center

[vapid belfry]

I’ll buy these self-tapping M2x4 screws and after putting them in a test print I’ll let you guys know how well they work. I may have to step up the screw size to M2.3x4 actually tho cuz the screw hole size I designed is 2mm wide so I’ll buy those too
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0Noc9Z

[vapid belfry]

Michael waves come from the michael center

[fringe jackal]

lol

Thank you I actually needed a laugh

Don’t have any of the parts that that I need anymore they changed their set up in select apart so small spaghetti cable gone the free dimensional center used for the pendulum on battery selection is so low that it goes between regular and rechargeable ion which are only two types currently.

[thick jasper]

Im having some issues finding parts lists and instructions, would it be possible to pin some of these things so its easy to find, including this new software update? Thanks for your work!

[vapid belfry]

While I wait for my boards to arrive I’m gonna work on a project I wanna do

3D model for the DIM Card Tool that uses the CH341A programmer

There are some but they’re really blocky

[worthy sail]

@thick jasper im pretty sure this list still has all the parts needed

[thick jasper]

Can you link me to the build instructions?

[vapid belfry]

#1494144833168867378 message here’s the wiring guide I wrote up. Prongs are optional but if you want them still the resistor legs/nickel strips go through the slits in the top of the shell if you are going to print it or get it printed.

That’s basically really all that’s needed to know how to build it. Drop the T-Display in the shell after soldering everything, put the prongs where they need to go, drop the trenner in, then connect the battery and put it in. Slap the back plate on.

If you add the MPU you do need to cut the trenner in half tho

I’ll link what Rurounik posted about the internals #1494144833168867378 message

Scroll up a bit from there and you can see a visual of where all the stuff is soldered to

[thick jasper]

youre amazing thank you so much!

[thick jasper]

i made a wiring diagram based on this, does it look right?

[vapid belfry]

It would be best to put that 5.6k resistor on the other side’s GND (grounding) pin, the resistor legs are not long enough. You could swap the GND of the Piezo to that side tho.

I have yet to put mine back together and I never added the speaker

[thick jasper]

hows this?

[vapid belfry]

5.6k is pointing at pin 27, should be the GND right below it. The point where the 3.9k and 5.6k share a connection at pin 25 with each other could use a dot but otherwise I think it’s still readable.

[thick jasper]

good catch, heres with the changes

[vapid belfry]

Oh normally the dot would go at the intersection (area circled in red). I didn’t word it right, sorry. Otherwise I believe this works.

[thin sail]

You can use the same GND for both, Piezo and Prongs, no problem at all

[thick jasper]

got it, thats probably a good idea to show a junction as there are already some overlapping wires in the diagram

[vapid belfry]

Oh oki. Mb

[thick jasper]

okay perfect, i figured it would be okay but i didn't want to add interference from the battle prongs just incase

[thin sail]

It wont

[vapid belfry]

Oh wait yeah

Cuz it’s just GND

If you were to look at the lines in the board

[thick jasper]

sweet if its common ground then it wont matter. i have never worked with this board lol

[simple agate]

SHINKA!

@thick jasper has evolved into Baby II!

[vapid belfry]

The GND just doesn’t really go anywhere

Sorry I’ve been up for a while cuz of insomnia

Some days I don’t go to bed

[thick jasper]

ur good, thanks for helping me! honestly i think it might be better to use the GND on the other side just to not have too much soldered on one pin lol

[simple agate]

@thick jasper has leveled up! (1 ➜ 2)

[thin sail]

I usually wake up 5am. Can't sleep past 6.

[thin sail]

The board have alot of GND, fell free to use it

[thick jasper]

yea lol might as well

okay so here it is with the junction points added!

[vapid belfry]

Some days I stay up like 30 hours or more. When my mind is too active usually.

I’m actually feeling tired now tho, aside from a 5 minute shower nap I’ve been up since 10AM yesterday

[thick jasper]

jeez get some rest, im exhausted just reading "10 am" lol. im guessing you tried the usual stuff: meditation, warm shower, reading?

[thin sail]

Coming to the next update

Brand new Color Engine

[fringe jackal]

You guys feel like engineers

Are going with this project

I am heavily amazed by your guys progress

[vapid belfry]

I just give into the excess energy and focus and end up not being able to sleep.

[thick jasper]

Felt. Probably gonna be the same once my parts come in. Hows the pendulum housing coming along? Are you working with blender?

[vapid belfry]

Yeah it’s blender, I’m just waiting on the Tenstar boards to come in before I make my final adjustments

In the meantime I’m modeling a different project

I’m gonna model the DiM card shell also since I don’t see it anywhere except online people selling them. Gonna open source the shell so people can make their own DiM card shells too.

[thick jasper]

Nice ive been wanting to make my own blank dimcards since the main guy making them isnt shipping to the us anymore due to the tariffs

[vapid belfry]

Yeah the tariffs suck for the community.

[thick jasper]

I have a disassembled dim card. Do you need pictures of the shell?

[vapid belfry]

I have a few, and I cracked open my extra VS Memory with a small screwdriver. It’s better if I’m able to measure the device in person.

I’ll get back to work on the V-Pet GO project in about 4-7 days when the Tenstar devices arrive

[vapid belfry]

Doing the test print now

I’ll give an update when or if it prints right

[vapid belfry]

Walls are thinner than I expected, but they’re about the same thickness as the DMC style shell

And a Lilygo TTGO does fit. I had to stop the first print because the frame failed. User error (skill issue) on my end

I think the frame came out oki but the finer details were lost on the two little leg things ofc

The little notch things just above the end of the tips. It would probably work better on a resin printer or a smaller nozzle size

[vapid belfry]

A support failed and got in the way so ig imma do it tomorrow

I tried the slim tree supports, so that’s my fault

However, the prongs and little hole next to it printed

I can confirm I got the hole p spot on

It did turn out slightly smaller, so I’m gonna add another 1-2mm of space on the end if it’s not my print settings.

[vapid belfry]

It only spans the width of the entire board, doesn’t account for the charging port

[vapid belfry]

It may be easier to print upside down also. I may try that

May not even need supports at that point

Except for the screen area

And button area

Actually wait

It kinda has slightly more space

It’s like 1-2mm difference

The length that is

And I got the wall thickness just right for the USB C port

So you can see there’s quite a bit of extra space for you to add some stuff on the sides

[vapid belfry]

And yes it will print faster and with less unnecessary supports upside down. I should have done that to begin with

Infill should only be like 10% for PLA also

Idk about the others but probably same thing

[humble storm]

This. I tried printing the DMC shell and at first it failed and came out pretty ugly. Flipped it upside down and it printed with no problems.

Having extra space on the sides is great. The trenner would push down on my resistor legs, but this should remedy that. It’s looking good. 🙏 Thanks for your hard work. Excited to see it finished.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vapid belfry (current: #289 - 7)

[vapid belfry]

It’s not entirely finished, but basically atp. I’m gonna make walls on the inside with the next test print, and put holes in them you can run the resistors through to the top. This should make it so that you have less things touching the legs and less things putting weight on them. Also, putting holes in the extra walls inside that hold the board in place is just good cable management.

And thank you yeah I went from not knowing Blender about a week or so ago to basically almost finishing my first project.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @humble storm (current: #90 - 28)

[vapid belfry]

I had some set backs at times, like the grip ridges at first

But otherwise I learned and managed to always fix it

I feel like I should make the grip ridges bigger tbh I do know how to fix them faster atp.

[narrow ridge]

How do you guys secure the board and speaker inside the case? Are you using double-sided tape or a hot glue gun?

[humble storm]

In the DMC shell, everything fits in it pretty snugly once you added the trenner, battery, and back cover. Once you slide the USB port into the hole, it holds the screen pretty firmly. I didn't use any tape or glue for my first build.

[thick jasper]

are you hosting the stls anywhere? once i get my parts together i would like to try printing the pen shell

[vapid belfry]

I just had to fix something major cuz of an issue with my slicer cutting supports through parts of the print that it’s not supposed to

It just didn’t fill some parts

Ig

[thick jasper]

you are doing the manifold trick with windows 3d viewer right?

slicers can get real finicky with 3d models and completely butcher the model because it isnt manifold

[vapid belfry]

No I had like holes in some of the walls of my model

Must have accidentally deleted something

It was on the face of the shell specifically

All good now

Now I just gotta add the walls that separate everything from the battery

Without the manifold it would have been worse probably

[thick jasper]

a trick i learned from the bionicle community is to always open stls with windows 3d viewer, import and it will fix the file and make it ready to print. i usually do that before printing to fix any errors i may have missed lol

[vapid belfry]

Also fun fact when I fixed it, it was only like 5 manifolds

Ah oki

I think before it was like 30 tho which is kinda high

[thick jasper]

im so new to the 3d modeling space, i did not know manifold was a thing that could be numerated. i thought it was like a state of being lol

cognito ergo manifold

[narrow ridge]

thank you 🙂

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @humble storm (current: #89 - 29)

[vapid belfry]

I was wrong, thinking of a different one. It’s still 30 rn…

It was 320 before though

I imported the old file since I keep backups as I work

I think ik what those 30 are too

It’s probably the grip ridges and maybe a stray vertex here and there

[vapid belfry]

Here's a test file for you, just the shell rn since I am working on the backplate to fix the grips again.

Just fix the manifolds in your slicer, it probably has a repair option.

I'll continue to work on it, I thought I didn't have any work beyond the inner walls for a week but I was wrong as soon as I put it through a slicer lol

[thick jasper]

ill print it tomorrow

[vapid belfry]

Same

I got the non-manifold geometry all fixed

Now I gotta redo the grip ridges eventually

[vapid belfry]

Oki, grips are increased in size and smoothed a little since they lose detail at this scale anyway

It looks big when it’s right in your face in blender but

When it’s like tiny 1mm nubs and you’re running filament with a .4mm nozzle the detail is basically nonexistent

[autumn bay]

.2mm nozzle then

[vapid belfry]

Yeah I need to buy some

Either .2mm nozzle or resin

Probably works best for the project

[autumn bay]

resin don´t work for this

[vapid belfry]

For real?

[autumn bay]

yes, @shadow ibex can explain it more, he tray it

[shadow ibex]

i do resin yes

[vapid belfry]

Yeah idk anything about it, just like the few prints my bf made when he had his resin printer

I considered getting a resin printer over a filament printer initially

[shadow ibex]

Get filament

Resin is messy as hell, and nowadays, if you use the proper nozzle size it should be very similar in quality

[vapid belfry]

Oh yeah I’m making a test rn of the shell with my filament printer. I got some .2mm nozzles otw

[vapid belfry]

Going oki so far aside from the buttons that flew off when they were done

The calibration pin hit them. That’s my fault tho

Put them too close together I think

I made the shell slightly wider also

Before it was 34, now it’s like 37 something mm on the inside

41mm wide

55 mm long

53ish mm long internally

I also stepped up the size of the button holes

Ts looks way bigger in blender

[vapid belfry]

Supports stuck to my build a little too hard. Gonna have to change some settings in my slicer

Other it came out oki

The button area is p ugly, might have to add like .1mm of thickness to it.

USB C is a little tight and a little too high but I’ll fix that

Screen area probably should be a little smaller also

If all these supports weren’t a lil too stubborn the shell would have fit well in the frame hole

Also the prongs all line up where they should

Button holes are lil too close also I’m noticing

[vapid belfry]

Oki yeah the screen was 18.15

Too tall on the top

[vapid belfry]

The screen will probably sit far away btw if your resistors are too big. Like max 1/6W preferably 1/8W

On my board I still have the 1/4W 3.9K resistors

Kinda stops the screen from touching the shell

So yeah anyway, basically don’t do a test print for that recent STL. The next one I drop should fix all the issues and add the final touches

[thin sail]

Amazing work, man..
That's incredible.

[vapid belfry]

Thanks I’m doing my best. And learning along the way. Before putting it down for the day I was working on a messed up internal area (non-manifold from trying to fix the USB C hole), otherwise I think I got the buttons in the right spot and to the size I want at least. As well as making and placing the new USB C port, with a shape that matches the port better

[stark veldt]

@thin sail @vapid belfry is it possible also port this to T display S3?

I had tweak it according to the github by Berational91

https://github.com/Berational91/DigimonVPet

Also I had also port in wificom , serial function referring to SuwitNaynan’s m5wificom

https://github.com/SuwitNaynan/m5wificom-source

Here is the result for wificom

Here is the result via serial

I can provide the code i currently have to support you needs.

Here is the S3 product details

https://lilygo.cc/products/t-display-s3?srsltid=AfmBOorKD7Z8AKVxujK3gPVjh55wJWi3-4cxEW01T_dkB_UhoU4PYdgK

It is having newer chip compared to the T display

[long ledge]

cailn i get a information or source code for ported wificom?

[stark veldt]

DMed

[vapid belfry]

What would all the new pin wirings be after the port?

Otherwise I wouldn’t mind dropping a little on a T-Display S3

[vapid belfry]

I went back to a version before I apparently deleted some geometry lines and it seems fine now.

[thin sail]

I need an S3 first.
I'll get one and see what i can do.

[stark veldt]

https://github.com/mintmakerenterprise/s3wificom

guys, i had write up on the s3wificom detail

[stark veldt]

I have only the basic prong connection now. I had order the remaining parts, they are on the way from china. Will get to me around 1 week.

[vapid belfry]

Ah oki. I’ll get one eventually. If we end up using it I can make a shell for it/modify the current one

For now I finished slimming the area under the screen, moved up the USB port hole, made the button area +0.3mm thicker and buttons +0.3mm wider/centered them, and added the keychain holes.

[stark veldt]

also here is code for vpet module.

https://github.com/mintmakerenterprise/S3VPet

most of the item remain the same, the only few thing edit are the setting to match the screen of S3

[vapid belfry]

Oh oki. So just different resolution and different pins basically

[stark veldt]

yes!

[vapid belfry]

Also if you guys want a 2000mAh 103050 that will fit the new Pendulum shell when it’s finished, I found one on AliExpress but you’d have to modify the battery end.

Imagine how long this thing could last on 2000mAh

Might even get 2-3 weeks of use out of a full charge

[vapid belfry]

Also I just remembered this, I’ll look at some battery switches that fit in the shell and make a hole somewhere for it so you can add a switch to it. Or if you want, send me the dimensions sometime of the battery switch you plan to use. I’m working on a chamber and button for the top to add a reset button already. The chamber the button goes in just ensures that it doesn’t fall out since there’s so much distance now from the ESP32 reset button and the top of the shell.

A good 12mm*

*(Edit nvm it’s only like 6.8 mm from the button to the shell atm but still, feel like the button could fall out into the shell without the chamber)

Of distance roughly

I will make the battery switch version potentially a separate STL tho

Not everyone plans on installing one probably, and it’s not super hard to add such a thing

[vapid belfry]

I might tweak it later but reset button hole added. I’ll trim the button to the right size eventually

The internal walls and such will get rounded also for more of a mold injected look

[vapid belfry]

I’ve been stress testing this test print I have, surprisingly very sturdy

Especially on the sides with guide walls for the ESP32

[humble storm]

The battery switch I'm planing on using is about 2 cm wide. The actual switch is 5mm tall, and I have a shorter one I could also use that's 3 mm tall.

[vapid belfry]

It can fit length wise, how far does the switch travel? The hole that the switch travels along I mean specifically, its Length and Width

3mm tall one is probably best unless you plan to cut down the 5mm switch

[fringe jackal]

It’s been a long time since I saw a switch like that

Parking complex is the circuit

[vapid belfry]

The side walls are only 1.9mm basically 2mm thick on the sides

And it depends if you want it flush also with the device, I could probably do that

Add a little bit of wall thickness where it needs to go

But tbh sticking out 1-1.1mm is hardly anything too

If 3mm tho, I need the lengths and widths of that switch

I could actually implement it into the trenner tbh, have the trenner hold the battery switch in place. Tape it with some kapton tape or super glue it. We have a lot of options here with the extra space.

[vapid belfry]

I’ve escaped unemployment finally so work on the model will be slightly slower

[stark veldt]

Congrats!

[simple agate]

@stark veldt has leveled up! (1 ➜ 2)

[humble storm]

It's 3mm x 6mm.

[vapid belfry]

Thank you, I’ll get to work on it at some point tomorrow. The job actually hired me like same day.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @humble storm (current: #87 - 30)

[vapid belfry]

Thanks

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @stark veldt (current: #798 - 1)

[vapid belfry]

Tbh I did like an hour of work and probably not gonna get paid for it ngl but it’s whatever, I had fun cuz I’m working with machinery. Whatever it takes to get hired nowadays too

They also wanted to see if I would actually wanna do the work cuz I keep getting let go from jobs cuz they “overstaffed” so it looks bad on my job history

Anyway sorry went off topic too much there

[vapid belfry]

Another night of not being able to sleep until like 3AM, anyway while I was waiting for my hair and bangs to dry I was inspecting the official pendulum color and noticed what exactly I had wrong and how to fix it; now the button area looks really good and close to the official model. Gonna make the slopes on the side longer also, it looks a bit weird with them being so short. I also gotta finish redoing the grip ridges AGAIN (last time I hope) because I see how much different I’ve made it from the PenC and ik how to recreate it.

I’m finally tired so I’m going to bed tho.

[vapid belfry]

Redid the edges in like 30 minutes this morning to later fix the grips, I gtg to work now tho

[thin sail]

It's SO BEAUTIFUL

[fringe jackal]

https://a.co/d/02bBD1IO

[vapid belfry]

I’m p tired but tomorrow morning I’m gonna go back to making the grips again and some other stuff

[fringe jackal]

Sweet dreams

[vapid belfry]

My Tenstar boards and gyro chip should arrive between today and Monday so I can finally double check if it all fits in the case

[narrow ridge]

Is there no clock? cause I can't find clock....

[vapid belfry]

I might have to make them more curved but at least I am at a point where it’s easy to fix cuz I made sure to keep a backup from before I made them. I never removed the button from the hole but that’s mostly because I wanted to see how it looks.

[humble storm]

I think I was able to get to the clock by holding both buttons down.

[narrow ridge]

Thank you So much 🙂

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @humble storm (current: #85 - 31)

[vapid belfry]

Also if the Tenstar is actually too big like

I’m thinking why not just make two separate versions, it’s not that hard to grab an entire side of the shell in blender and drag it

And just make it a little bigger

I’ve gone my best to keep the geometry neat so usually I can pull things around with little consequence

[fringe jackal]

Project sober and blue is a go

[humble storm]

Nice! I have parts that should be coming in the next day or two too! Gyroscopes, batteries, and nickel strips should be here hopefully tomorrow.

[humble storm]

I just noticed that the minimum weight of my Hanumon is currently 5g. It's supposed to be 20g. Is it a known bug that's improperly updating the correct minimum weight once evolution happens?

[thick jasper]

i got my parts! ill try to assemble this tonight

[thin sail]

It is, the txt have the right number but the code is dropping to 5g minimum.
Will fix in the next update.

[vapid belfry]

Sorry I don’t use my phone at all if I’m working. My parts may be here by Monday now atp but it could arrive on a Saturday

Cleared customs in <1 day according to AliExpress

[thick jasper]

does the positive prong go in the back or the front

[vital helm]

2 bugs
stage 3 Angoramon evo to stage 3 Otamamon
not progress during sleep

[simple agate]

SHINKA!

@vital helm has evolved into Baby I!

[vapid belfry]

I don’t fully remember atm. I wanna say positive/signal/pin 32 is top and GND is bottom

This is how it is on 2-3 prong devices

[thick jasper]

copy, next for the wifi settings on the device do i seperate the name of the network from the title with a space, comma or colon?

or do i just replace the 2.4ssid text with mynetwork

[simple agate]

@thick jasper has leveled up! (2 ➜ 3)

[fringe jackal]

ChipLILYGO ESP32 T-Display

I finally ordered them. They’re coming next month on the eighth.

Candace work with the program

LILYGO T-QT ESP32-S3

If you can, I’m planning on making a Digimon mini

[thin sail]

Thanks for reporting.
Will check it tomorrow morning.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vital helm (current: #799 - 1)

[thin sail]

Time is running during normal sleep. (not deep sleep).
The bug is it's not changing Age ATM.

[thin sail]

Only text.
SSID
PW

[thick jasper]

Btw @vapid belfry have you thought about adding a pendulum clacker to the housing like the color?

[thin sail]

That would perfect

[vital helm]

I think evo counter not run during normal sleep

[simple agate]

@vital helm has leveled up! (0 ➜ 1)

[thin sail]

It does.
I double checked

[thin sail]

Oh, evo timer are from DMX, not Pendulum Color.

[vapid belfry]

Yeah I’m considering how to go about it atm

I’m thinking making a capsule that you can drop a metal or 3D printed rod into

And than you can glue that capsule to a wall inside the device

Therefore making it an optional and changeable piece.

But idk still working out the final things

For the back plate attachment you’ll either need self-tapping screws (these create their own threads and can be found in small sizes) or or glueing it on

Trenner might take up more space also, or complete encase the battery

Then I later have to make a version with a battery switch which shouldn’t be too hard, but may limit the space available for the battery

I rounded the side edges more, and rounded the grips, I’m not changing the grips again cuz I p much have it perfect now almost

If you do dislike how squarish the grips look then a simple pass with a sanding sponge or emery board should smooth them more. They’ll get smoothed anyway if you plan to sand, fill, prime, and paint the shell

Otherwise on the pendulum color they are kinda blocky anyway

I am also redoing the keychain hole

I had it in a weird spot

It’s on the side, not the corner, of the pendulum device

I may just completely center the holes

But keep in mind if printing with PLA that it may be p weak, but I will probably do the keychain holder sticking out of the shell like the DM pets with some added support via beveling where it connects at the base so that it is slightly stronger

Anyway back to the topic of the clacker, there’s enough space under the prong area to make a wall you could drop a rod or ball bearing in, so it gives me the idea for a boxed in area to put the clacker in that you can slap a small lid on and maybe glue the top in place.

Prob to reduce the number of STLs needed, the buttons and clacker lid or anything small and extra will be connected together in one STL

But so far it’s just the shell, back plate/alt backplate, trenner, and buttons as STLs.

[vapid belfry]

Yeah you find 3x5 mm metal dowel pins and prob use one for the clacker

Or 3x8 maybe even. Can’t just buy one tho so you will end up with a lot of them if you chose to go that route

The 3x8 metal dowel pin will probably be louder and feel heavier, mimicking the Pendulum clacker closer, but obviously you could just get the clacker 3D Printed

But yeah anyway sorry for the rambling I’ve just had a bit of time to think about it more the past two days

P much now atp it’s just attaching stuff to the internal shell so that it becomes functional. The aesthetic external aspect is basically done

[thick jasper]

looks like a rod is how it is acheved in this version of the pandulum

im thinking about making a pendulum cycle style shell, would anybody be interested in that?

[fringe jackal]

Yes

I will be very interested

I am currently trying to get a 3d printer for cheap

[proper belfry]

Hi, does the “VS Bandai Link” battle option work?

It’s weird since I’m unable to battle using my Pendulum Color with the top & bottom prong connection 🤔

[vapid belfry]

Yeah someone showed us one day here, metal dowel pins are the closest thing we can get to it I believe

[vapid belfry]

I think it’s doable and potentially less work than the Pendulum Color shell

The grip ridges have been a pain

But they’re finally finished

[vapid belfry]

Found these

[vapid belfry]

Thoughts on the (hopefully) final aesthetic external changes?

Perhaps it can never be a perfect replica but it’s close imo

Sorry for the ping @thin sail but these are the last changes I will be making to the outside, I think this may be as good as it gets for now

[vapid belfry]

It is p crazy that this is how it started out for me

I’ve learned a lot in roughly two weeks

[thin sail]

It is the closest thing i ever seen.

Amazing work, @vapid belfry

[vapid belfry]

Thank you

[thin sail]

I'm thinkin on getting a Bambu Lab A1 next week

[vapid belfry]

Next we gotta do the internals and punch those same grips into the backplate, and it’s basically done

[vapid belfry]

If you do you should look at the metal dowels they sell

[thin sail]

0.4?

[vapid belfry]

They’re cheap and would be a good size for the clacker

No they range from 2x6 to larger sizes

It’s like a metal rod

[vapid belfry]

I would recommend 0.2mm nozzle tho if you want to retain as much detail as possible

[thin sail]

Ok, noted

[vapid belfry]

But yeah Bambu Labs sells a 20ct of metal dowel pins

In various sizes

[thin sail]

What they are for?

[vapid belfry]

Clacker, in machinery tho they usually hold things in place

It’s like the pins holding your watch wrist band together for example

But you can get them in bigger sizes

If you wanted tbh you could probably use a wood dowel too

[thin sail]

Oh, got ya

[vapid belfry]

Either way I’ll include a 3D printable clacker pin in the button STL

For anyone who wants to just use that. Shouldn’t be hard to make

I did take the test print already and drop a piece of 3D printed garbage in the extra space under the prong area and covered it, it does actually sound close to the clacker in the PenC

[simple agate]

@vapid belfry has leveled up! (16 ➜ 17)

[vapid belfry]

The only problem I can see is with the location of the charging port actually, with it being really round in the edges it may not reach the end of the shell for charging unless you make a depression in the end of the shell to put the charger in.

And that depression has to be big and wide enough to also account for the plastic covering the male charging end

Also if you wanna keep the look of it having 3 buttons without adding a 3rd middle button, you could make a fake one

Or it could just be a button that presses both at the same time maybe. I never thought of that until now ngl

Tho that kind of strain could break it anyway

Anyway if you’re gonna work on it I look forward to seeing what you come up with

[vapid belfry]

Also I will probably release the actual .blend file with the STL eventually if anyone wants to add anything special to it. Like for example maybe an imprint of the Digimon Logo, the Digimon Pendulum logo from the box, etc

Though changing this STL prob won’t be that hard

[vapid belfry]

https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/d2-stainless-steel-dowel-pin here I’ll link this

You can also look at their D3 (3mm diameter) dowels

If you own a Bambu Lab printer it may be useful to have them on hand anyway

[thin sail]

Thanks

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vapid belfry (current: #253 - 8)

[vapid belfry]

More internal work

[vapid belfry]

No problem

Grooves are to make way for wires and resistors, also the reset button

The thing that holds the clacker will be pretty simple

And it will hold a 2mm dowel

[thick jasper]

I started sketches for the cycle

[vapid belfry]

Hole itself is 2.2 mm to give space for manufacturing deviations for dowels

And to let it slide

[vapid belfry]

I made a diagram of what goes where on the inside. The little grooves are so you can use the extra space in the device while keeping it a little more organized inside

[unique sigil]

This is a super cool project, really excited to see it progress! Just want to report a bug I'm having I didn't see anyone else mention yet. I was wanting to wake my digimon up from sleep but many of my menus are not working while sleeping. Anyone else have this issue?

[vapid belfry]

Back plate w screws finished finally. Had to do the screw holes and update the grips

Atp I’ve spent more time designing it in Blender than playing with the device so I’m not sure.

I feel like the back is missing something, perhaps some small lettering or something.

[unique sigil]

I think it looks fine personally! Lettering would be cool as well

[vapid belfry]

Ig it does leave a blank space to add personalization tbh

[unique sigil]

For sure you could throw a sticker on or print custom text

[vapid belfry]

@thin sail do you have a logo design for this device/software? it probably wouldn’t be hard to trace in Blender. It would be optional to have tho, it’s p easy to just copy the object and put an imprinted design on it.

[vapid belfry]

Yeah true

Tbh it kinda chonky

Might have to shorten the device eventually

The internal depth is roughly 21mm, for devices that take up that space, the Lilygo is 4mm (unsure about the Tenstar), trenner is 2mm, and battery is 10mm. That’s only 16-17mm, give or take

[humble storm]

I think I came across another bug. Not sure if it’s supposed to be this way or not. I’m used to the DMC, where when it’s time to evolve, the Digimon evolves even if it’s sleeping and it remains asleep.

In the V-Pet GO, I think the Digimon wakes up, lights go on, it evolves, then it goes back to sleep, giving a call for the lights to be turned off. If it happens in the middle of the night, that call will most definitely result in a care mistake.

My Hanumon evolved into Mammon in the middle of the night, and sure enough, there was a missed call for the lights to go out and a logged care mistake.

[rustic yarrow]

Are you an engineer or something?

Cause those are some sick sketches

[vapid belfry]

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPvJ4f9
found this listing for some $2.70 dowels in various lengths. You really don’t need this many, but it’s p hard to just buy them individually on their own.

Updated the link

They’re 2mm x 8mm

[thin sail]

It's not a issue, it's what I wanted. If the Digimon is sleeping you can't feed, battle, train or wake him up, until it wakes up.

[thin sail]

No, I'm really bad at designing art in general

[thin sail]

That one I'm not aware off.
I'll check it later. Thanks for the feedback.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @humble storm (current: #81 - 32)

[thin sail]

M2 X 8mm?

[vapid belfry]

Yep

No bigger than 10mm

No smaller than 6mm

You could use 1mm or 1.5mm if you have those, just will shake more. The hole itself is 2.2mm

I tapered the holes to make the dowel easier to insert also

[vapid belfry]

Ah, that’s oki.

[thick jasper]

Im an artist actually lol i am not smart enough to be an engineer

[narrow ridge]

Your design is so cool. Awesome work!

[simple agate]

SHINKA!

@narrow ridge has evolved into Baby II!

[narrow ridge]

@thin sail this project is really nice! Thank you so much 🙂
Are you have a plan sound on/off function?
And metal empire & virus busters egg?

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #122 - 19)

[thin sail]

I do.
Of course, all PenC Versions will be added

[thin sail]

Well turns out it will wake up like you said.
If it's on Light Sleep it will wake up and get a care mistake.
Will check the code later.
Thank you for the Feedback.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @humble storm (current: #77 - 33)

[vapid belfry]

I’m doing a test print again

Hopefully this will go right

[thin sail]

The bug only happens when the device turns the screen off for some time.
Will have to check it later and add a 15 minutes timer to do whatever you like with the Digimon when you turn the light on, like DMX

[vapid belfry]

The supports fused to my model last time so I’m dropping the temperature

[humble storm]

Okay. Thanks for checking. I wasn't actually sure about it because I wasn't there to see him evolve. I just came back to it after it turned to Mammon, asleep, lights on, with a care mistake. The time on the clock was around 2:00 am or so when I looked at it. I'm glad you were able to replicate it.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thin sail (current: #118 - 20)

[vapid belfry]

Sometimes I try to pick off that little strip of plastic waste it makes to ready the nozzle and the entire first layer fails cuz of the tiny vibration from picking it off

We all good now it’s going at 100 printing speed for now

Surprised by how little supports it needs, even for the keychain. Initially I was gonna use floating screw holes, but I had a feeling it would be less structurally stable + require more supports.

With the more triangle shaped slopes in the button area, it uses less supports now also

Oh yeah I just noticed, the Pendulum Color has 4 screw holes in a similar layout

So I got that kinda right too without meaning to

Look at it go

[unique sigil]

Ah gotcha thank you!

[vapid belfry]

I left the house so ig we’ll see if the last 100 layers turns to spaghetti while I’m gone

[vapid belfry]

Supports stuck p hard to the button area again

Didn’t stick as bad tho. Also need to move the screen over by like a mm or two

Testing the back plate now

[vapid belfry]

Might need to make the backplate a bit more hollow, maybe it will prevent it from curving a bit.

Otherwise it’s basically almost done

Keychain holder needs to be thicker tho

Screen is off by about 1-2mm

[thin sail]

Oh man this is so fkn awesome

[vapid belfry]

Almost completely done

I have some really minor shit to change

But it’s like a few things here and there

[vapid belfry]

One more test print hopefully

[vapid belfry]

Redid the auto leveling and now my prints come out amazing

At least way better than before

Making all the miscellaneous shit like buttons and the trenner rn

The trenner will actually wall off the battery from everything

Not just separation from the board

[vapid belfry]

I am gonna maybe try to print the clacker and reset button on their sides.

They’re p thin (2mm) and don’t do so well

I could probably make them wider tho tbh

The trenner is almost done and if doesn’t warp than it should fit the battery

I think a 103050 would definitely fit

[thin sail]

Is it the new print?
Can you send more pictures?

[vapid belfry]

This is the battery trenner

Cover

[vapid belfry]

I had to trim the trenner more to make it fit better, I also made similar changes in blender.

Otherwise the buttons, clacker, etc came out looking like shit

[vapid belfry]

Tbh

It will probably be improved when I get a .2mm nozzle

But atm I can’t really print the buttons

[vapid belfry]

I also did raise the height of the inner walls also

Because the trenner is putting pressure on the board anyway

There’s like resistors and capacitors attached to the back of the T-Display

And I don’t want to put a lot of pressure on something like that, especially since you’re gonna be shaking the device

You could break something off maybe

Total I think the entire thickness of the T-Display is actually closer to 6-7mm

Thanks to those parts on the back

So we’ll say 6mm for the ESP32, 2mm for the trenner, 10mm for the battery, taking up a total of 18mm inside the device

Instead of the 16mm I had given before

I suppose you also have to count the 1.7mm part that pushes up the screen so the buttons and USB has room

So 19.7mm roughly

20mm to be on the safe side. The internal depth is like 21ish mm so it’s basically done

I expected there to be way more room but when you divide it out evenly and organize things the intended components ends up taking up that space anyway

I will probably put a spot on the back of the back plate so you can attach the speaker to it

But that also means being careful when you open your own device

Also can’t have any exposed wiring on the speaker

[fringe jackal]

Like a normal virtual pet

I’m also still learning how to do 3dprinting myself in art and saving to get a starter printe

So you work is quite amazing

[vapid belfry]

I'll add lines for the wires but I think this should be oki. The holes look big but they're only 1.5mm wide, they're p small actually

[vapid belfry]

Thanks

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @fringe jackal (current: #292 - 7)

[vapid belfry]

The backplate should be printable upside down

Unless your printer cannot handle the slopes of the edges, it should print with little supports

Can prob tape the wires down with Kapton tape or something. Otherwise they're just to add space for the wires from getting pinched.

[vapid belfry]

Had to redesign all these cuz otherwise I don't think my printer can handle them. Clacker hole is now like 2.5mm wide. Probably print it laying down on the side

So yeah that's basically everything.

Just have to duplicate the backplate from a previous version and change the screw holes on it on the copy to pegs at some point

Otherwise tbh the screw holes are not going to be hard to make

M1.6-M1.8 self tapping screws will bite into the plastic holes and make their own threads.

A box of them are cheap and can be used for future projects you may make

Since M1-M2 is a p common size for electronics

[fringe jackal]

I had downloaded blenders

[vapid belfry]

I did have to make the keychain holder bigger idk if I mentioned that

It could barely fit a 2mm jumper ring

And it cracked the plastic

But it is structurally stable

It has yet to break completely

[vapid belfry]

Time to make the donut

I’m kidding I never did that tutorial

I really didn’t want to. I just learned as I went along.

[fringe jackal]

I’m doing it now

[vapid belfry]

Also if you want I’d recommend some wire wrapping or heat shrink tubing over your resistor legs.

Just helps to fully keep wires from crossing

They don’t get very hot

You can short your device if certain things touch, I did it once and lost all my progress.

If you do heat shrink/wrapping also you can make the Pin 32 leg red and GND black

Or whatever color to help you tell the difference

[thin sail]

20 or 25mm piezo?

[vapid belfry]

25mm

But you could do a smaller size probably if you used an adhesive

[thin sail]

Ace.
I have at least 10 units

[vapid belfry]

Only thing left atp is a test print basically

To make sure that I moved and resized the screen hole correctly

[thin sail]

Gonna get a printer this week

[vapid belfry]

I can give you the STLs later today if you want

You really only need to print half the shell

Just to see if everything aligns

[thin sail]

It will take at least 3 days to arrive

What do you think of Bambu A1 mini?

[vapid belfry]

I’m unfortunately not gonna be able to do it for a while

[thin sail]

It's way cheaper than the A1

[vapid belfry]

I need more filament, I never bought extra

[vapid belfry]

I’m not sure but as long as it has a build space of 100x100 it should work fine. I kinda forgot the details about it but I did consider it at one point

I may also slice some the excess space off of the shell btw and attach it to the backplate

To reduce warping

[thin sail]

A1 = 256x256mm
A1 mini = 180x180mm

[vapid belfry]

MM or inches

[thin sail]

CM

[vapid belfry]

Oh CM

Yeah that’s about the same size as mine

[thin sail]

Sorry forgot about USA strange units lol

[vapid belfry]

My Ender 3 V3 SE has 220x220 mm space

[vapid belfry]

It’s just that I’m used to working with mm atp so I forget CM is a thing

I really do dislike imperial atp

Tbh for the longest time cuz all my manufacturing jobs commonly used mm

[thin sail]

Mini is 150usd cheaper than A1

[vapid belfry]

Machines adjustments were always in .01 mm for when I was printing

[vapid belfry]

Yeah it’s a nice price tag but I needed it even cheaper. Eventually I’ll upgrade maybe.

My V3 SE costed $180-$190 or something

I had an offer for an Ender-3 og for like $90 but I had read that the V3 SE had all the upgrades people normally add to the Ender-3 and a lil more

So I went with that

[humble storm]

All my parts just arrived today, a few days late. Do you need any help to do some test prints?

[sand cedar]

Hi! I'm trying to install it, but when I try to turn it on it doesn't. Does anyone know what I'm doing wrong?

[humble storm]

Hard to know what you're doing wrong unless you tell us what you've tried. Can you walk us through what you've done so far? Most likely you flashed it incorrectly.

[sand cedar]

I am literally following these images

[humble storm]

It could be the cable that you're using. Try a different cable or a lower Baud rate and reflash it again.

If it flashed successfully, hitting the reset button on the serial monitor tab should boot up your V-Pet Go.

[fringe jackal]

How do you customize sprite

And how many can I add?

And is it possible to add in mega plus

[vapid belfry]

Yeah if you could that’d be cool. I need to upload the files tho, but I’m at work atm unfortunately.

[vapid belfry]

As far as Baud rates go, I’ve found that 921600 works for me as well as 2000000.

If your device doesn’t show up in a COM port at all, it’s your cable

[vapid belfry]

I’ll have the files in like an hour and a half. I have to take public transportation everywhere. But my boyfriend wants to go to a place to eat. He works a lot so he can’t really give me a ride.

Might be 2 hours

Ik I don’t need to announce anything but I prefer to do things in a prompt and timely manner with given or guesstimated ETAs.

Oh yeah you can test the power switch placement while you’re at it if you want.

I had to raise the internal walls to try to make the trenner not put as much pressure on the stuff on the back of the TTGO T-Display. The walls extend 8mm from the bottom of the internal shell, and the trenner is 2mm thick

I could probably dial that back tbh

Maybe 1mm is fine

[humble storm]

Heading to work. I can try the test print once I’m off.

[vapid belfry]

Sounds good

[vapid belfry]

Here's the latest test prints

[vapid belfry]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7351510 here I made a thingiverse account a while ago

Never posted anything to it prior

I just noticed the slightly messed up geometry on the charging port side

I’ll fix it later in the week it’s whatever

[dusky ravine]

The final result is really much better than what could have been asked for, it is very much appreciated ❤️

[vapid belfry]

Thank you. Also I ended up fixing it in like 5 minutes cuz it was kinda bugging me. I’m going to bed now tho.

The new body shell is on thingiverse

[dusky ravine]

The well-deserved rest

[vapid belfry]

True

The Thingiverse 3D viewer makes it look really nice

[thick jasper]

heres a model of the lilygo t display for anyone who wants to make their own shells

it already has the mpu module modeled into it on the back and space for the capacitors on the front

[thick jasper]

Hey @thin sail have you thought about making a version of the software with the monster hunter or godzilla sprites?

[narrow ridge]

Thank you for sharing your model! I have a question. What kind of screw is using? M1.6? or M1.8? And also Is need M2 metal? (For pendulum feeling and sound?)

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vapid belfry (current: #234 - 9)

[vapid belfry]

It’s in the Thingiverse link, under the list of Needs at the end. You can use different lengths, as long as it’s at least 4 and not longer than 8

[narrow ridge]

Oh. Sorry. Thank you 🙂

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vapid belfry (current: #210 - 10)

[vapid belfry]

No it’s oki, no problem

I’ll eventually make the backplate with pegs on it

The reason I made the hole deep for the screw is to give you options; and in the scenario of stripping out the hole, you can just go for a slightly thicker and/or deeper screw size instead of making a new print

The peg back plate model could also be an option for people who have stripped out the screw holes

[vapid belfry]

Oh this is nice. Thank you.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @thick jasper (current: #801 - 1)

[vapid belfry]

A detail I kinda missed; the back plate on the PenC is actually kinda sloped.

I’ll also pump out the backplate version with pegs sometime by the end of this week hopefully

[humble storm]

This is great work. Thanks for all your efforts.

I just did a test print. The body is a bit snug to the point where I can't get my Lilygo fully in the shell. I think an extra .5mm clearance on the the left and right sides might be needed. The usb-c port also needs a bit more height, maybe by .5mm also.

Gonna try to make some adjustments in my slicer software real quick and do another test print.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vapid belfry (current: #193 - 11)

[vapid belfry]

Maybe these devices have some variation between them

My Lilygo fit perfectly for this model

I did 52mm of internal length

Pulling the wall in on the side with no buttons should be oki

It’s already almost 2mm thick

[humble storm]

That's very possible. I did notice that I left my infill a bit higher than usual from a previous project. Not sure if that made a difference or not.

[vapid belfry]

I think perhaps we will encounter a T-Display that varies in dimensions, maybe. Naca already reported having to sand the end of the board on one side to make it fit

[vapid belfry]

My infill was only 5%

And I did double walls in Creality Prints

Single wall might make the dimensions smaller but idk

I think 15% for the back plate probably would be best tho

At 5% it probably cooled too quickly and warped

It also cracked

I did my best to make the microcontroller fit well while giving a tiny amount of variation, since you will likely be shaking the device

This is why also I tried to give every wire and stuff a place to go without being pinched or touching anything else

How about the screen placement though? Is it off a bit still? @humble storm

[humble storm]

You did a great job with the design. The screen placement looked okay, but it was hard to tell since I couldn't get my board all the way in.

[vapid belfry]

Thanks. And yeah if the board isn’t laying flat it’ll be hard to tell

[humble storm]

Screen placement looks good. I need to sand down some of the surfaces and print the rest of the parts tomorrow.

[vapid belfry]

Yeah it definitely needs some sanding, otherwise better than I’ve printed so far

The top of the screen does seem a little high tho.

I may just shift the internals though to try to fix it instead.

It would be easier than moving the screen

Maybe it’s just the angle tho

But yeah I had an issue where I could see like down into the pin area

I shortened the top like a mm

I also had to cut off my resistors

Cuz one of them was still my old 1/4W resistor

And it pushed the screen away from the shell

Glad to see I got the buttons centered finally also

[humble storm]

The screen sits nicely flush with the shell, but I haven’t soldered any of the other parts to the board yet.

Looking at it, I don’t see any pins, but the screen is slightly off centered vertically. There’s more “black” on the top than there is on the bottom. To me, it’s not a big deal; I’m not bothered by it. But if that’s what you’re asking about, then yes, I can confirm that.

[vapid belfry]

As long as you use a 1/6W-1/8W resistor it shouldn’t push the board up at all, granted that both resistors are pushed all the way down to the board. For the wires you need to solder to it, would recommend bending the wire at an angle so it’s flat with the board, then soldering

And ofc snip the excess wire off so it doesn’t risk touching anything

You have a lot of wiring space to play with, so just make sure everything has some sort of wrapping at the very least

[vapid belfry]

Specifically I mean putting the wire in through the back of the pins on the T-Display, instead of the front

[vapid belfry]

Oh and yeah that is what I meant. I’ll adjust it when I get the chance

[fringe jackal]

Hey coding language is the program made with

I’ve been tinkering around with it

[vapid belfry]

I got my MPUs

Unfortunately

It does not fit in the space I wanted it to cuz of the trenner

It needs like a good .5mm of clearance

So ig that means that the walls are about to get slightly thinner

@humble storm yeah the Tenstar T-Diplay didn’t exactly fit length wise in my test print I keep on my table.

I little bit of internal space should fix that. I was really close tho.

I got the Reset button like right on point also. I cut mine off on my first model

[vapid belfry]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7351510

MPU6050 space
Extra space for T-Display

Oki update; one side of the back plate didn’t triangulate very well

Looks like both sides, so nvm on that

Reuploaded the original

The inside slopes a little inwards

To make the device slide in better

I’ll just leave the screen where it’s at for now

Turns out no holding pins needed at all for the MPU6050, the little space I made for it to sit in should be enough to hold it in place

The trenner was pushing on top of my MPU when I tried it in the device, just by a little

[thick jasper]

im working on a dm mini shell rn hopefully ill get this done this week

[thick jasper]

@fringe jackal i know you were asking for something like this

[fringe jackal]

Yeah

Looks cool

Well, I gotta go to sleep. I can’t work in the morning.

Thank you for showing me

[autumn bay]

Work that way? Is not flat?

[vapid belfry]

It is flat. The yellow box takes up extra space tho

It prevents you from adding the trenner

Oh you meant

Like the chip itself

Not its orientation

No they’re not completely flat unfortunately

[autumn bay]

I mean, if the lilygo is flat, this is 90°. But if it works, it works 🫡

[vapid belfry]

Yeah I assume if it just reads X/Y/Z axis movements or just movements in general then it won’t entirely matter what the orientation is as long as it lies in a specific way. If it needs to be turned then that isn’t hard to fix. I’m just trying to minimize contact between parts.

[narrow ridge]

Guys I have a question. Is it possible to Change V-Pet-GO to VPET By DrDo?
V-Pet-GO → VPET By DrDo & VPET By DrDo → V-PET-GO ?

Because when installing bin file DrDo VPET using different program.

But I think they using same hardware so it can be possible.

But I don't know how change DrDo VPET → V-Pet GO...

Does anyone know?

[humble storm]

Yes, you can switch back and forth. You just reflash your ESP32 with whichever one you want. You can use the same program (https://thelastoutpostworkshop.github.io/ESPConnect/) to flash either bin.

[narrow ridge]

Thank you 🙂 Oh I just flash either bin file. I understand. I thought this step making a trouble.

I will try just flash Drdo bin file 🙂

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @humble storm (current: #76 - 34)

[fringe jackal]

@humble storm it’s the way to change the sprites inside the program. I’ve been looking and everything looks encrypted for a different language some of the programs in plain tax.
I am trying to add in a black dinosaur

[vapid belfry]

As long as you have the 16MB version you can use either WifiCOM V-Pet to V-Pet GO.

[humble storm]

This is the tool to change sprites for DrDo's V-pet. I'm not sure if it works for this as well or not.

[vapid belfry]

Yeah it’s a different program from what I remember in a conversation with Rurounik. He will release it eventually.

For this device

[fringe jackal]

Paint the editor program

Or the upper virtual pet program

[thin sail]

I will. Promise.
Im in a quest to get a 3d printer

Get back home next week

[vapid belfry]

You’re good, dw

[thin sail]

Pendulum Color Sprite order(12 sprites).
You can put all sprites at once it will convert 12 sprites, create a folder and put the digimon.bin inside.

It will create all cut in sprites at once and create a folder for each Digimon..
You will need to merge folders with digimon.bin folders

[fringe jackal]

Thank you

[thin sail]

The digimon.txt struct

inside every numbered folder you will need digimon.bin(sprites) cutin.bin(cutin) and digimon.txt(digimon structure)

[narrow ridge]

Thank you 🙂 Mine is 16m so I think I can.

[buoyant surge]

Gave +1 Digi-rep to @vapid belfry (current: #182 - 12)

[thick jasper]

This is so cool! This means if we can find the sprite dumps we can make godzilla and monster hunter versions of the software!

[vapid belfry]

No problem

[vapid belfry]

And I can add Tamagotchi sprites

I made a few of them tbh

But I stopped working on it for the shell of this device

[thick jasper]

Oh man nanimon can return home

[vapid belfry]

True

The 2026 Tama Invasion will be amazing

[thin sail]

Hope you enjoy

[thick jasper]

update on the mini shell. i got most if not all of the parts designed im gonna print them and then clean it up

[stark veldt]

so cool ! What you use to draw them?

[thick jasper]

So i made the board model using fusion 360 since that needed exact measurments, for the rest i use blender cuz its a more free form process

My 3d printer is not working i ordered a replacement part that should come in on the 15th so ill try again then

[thick jasper]

Also just checking, does the online naca storage function work?

[humble storm]

Been working on a way to incorporate the power toggle. This is what I came up with. It seems sturdy enough.

[fringe jackal]

Just how the batteries are connected

[humble storm]

I have it connected like this.

[vapid belfry]

I almost forgot this was 3D printed for a second and not mold injected.

Nice solution though I like it

[thin sail]

What printer, fillament and settings, please?

[humble storm]

I use a Creality Ender-3 V3 KE. Here are my standard settings:

• filament: PLA, Jayo brand
• 200º C nozzle, 60º C bed
• layer height at .2mm
• infill density: 15%
• print speed: 300-450mm/s
• supports: generate, normal

[vapid belfry]

So my nozzle temp probably was a lil too high at 210C.

I’ll try it when I get more filament

[vapid belfry]

Oh yeah did you print it with its face up or face down