#Layer shifting
108 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Pretty sure it's shifting in the Y direction. X seems ok
Acceleration in your firmware doesn't matter if you have your acceleration set in the slicer
And at 1200, you've got other issues if you're layer shifting
I'm pushing 15K acceleration at 600mm/s on travel
Maybe stealthchop is enabled in your tmc settings?
Try this in your [tmcxxxx stepper_x(y)]
#stealthchop_threshold: 0
Stealthchop 0 is the same as commenting it out
didn't load the second picture for me. now i see it
binding on the linear rails, or some bearings don't spin freely. is your belt tension the some on both sides? are your belts the same length?
Same length same tension. Could it be the rails?
If you grab the x beam and move it from front to back do you feel some „extra“ resistance on certain spots? Maybe your x is also out of square? Deracking may also help or realign the y axis?
I'll have to check it tonight when I get home. I will also add this, I was having the issue before. I thought it was the Funssor metal parts causing the issue because the back left motor mount pin kept coming out, causing the bearings to move. So I printed everything in abs and now I'm still having the issue. So it might be the rail being out of alignment.
I try to find the tool which clamps the x axis to the front extrusion to get it square to it
You need two of this squaring tools and 6x M5(4/3)x8 Screws and T-Nuts
And a video regarding gantry racking
Video overview on how to solve common racking issues on the voron v2, the tips in this video also cover the v1/v0 and other corexy printers
Is this with a Mellow MCU?
Manta m8p, cb2, O2S
no idea then, only time I had that issue was from running a mellow board, and they need some extra setting in the driver section, which I removed when I cleaned up my cfg.
Do I need to take the belts off to do this?
did you use loctite on the pulleys
Sorry I'm tired, which spot for the loctite?
medium strength on the set screws
I'm pretty sure I did
You mean the grub screws right? If so I did do that
Hope I did this right. I made sure the gantry was straight and equal distances and moved freely. Readjusted some belts.
Should be the other way round but I guess is also works like this. It’s just to make sure the gantry doesn’t move when you retighten the xy screws
Do your belts move up and down on the tower bearings? I can see some debris on the bottom. But the picture actually looks good
Off on the x direction now.
It moves about 1 line too much to the right every time it switches layers
After watching the video of the left motor mount a few times it does look like the lower belt is moving very slightly up.down a little bit on the single bearing. Not sure if that's being caused by the tensioner, x gantry bearing or this single bearing being off.
I‘d say your belts are running fine. Had worse on one of my printers.
Your frame is square?
Do you print enclosed?
Had layershifts with my big one. Had to heatsoak to 45 degrees without hotend fans running to allow my frame to expand.
A more dirty fix would be a skew adjust in all directions, so the printer would compensate.
Does your bed move straight down?
Seems like everything is square. I don't use an enclosure. Bed moves straight down, 5 plus so it doesn't have the single z in the back. Could it be a current issue on the motors?
Or maybe a rotation distance issue
Rotation distance is ok
Since I don’t know which steppers you are using but it‘s more on the upper end than lower which is also ok. Your z doesn’t squeak if you move it up and down?
The AB motors are Nema17 2A motors, the ones from AE listed in the BOM. No noise moving up and down.
I see you used the calculator for the current 😁. That’s a though one since it’s completely consistent. Did u try another slicer or model?
I did use the calculator. lol. I did not use another slicer, but i did try a different model with the same results
Using Orca
You could try this macro to see if you lose steps https://github.com/AndrewEllis93/Print-Tuning-Guide/blob/main/macros/TEST_SPEED.cfg
i think i might already have that one but i haven't used it since I switched the 5+ to the merc build.
Does it also tilt if you print a cylinder in vase mode?
i haven't done that, so i'm not sure
I don't think your belts have anything to do with your
Maybe your slicer travel moves are too aggressive and skipping at layer changes
Try a vase mode print
is that normal for Orca?
Depends on the settings and what your printer can handle
Ah ok. Well apparently mine can't even handle a basic print without shifting to the right slightly. Lol. I will try to print the cylinder in vase mode tonight if I get a chance.
These are the results from the test speed macro
The start and end values should be in between your micro steps. So you actually lost steps on both steppers. Did you check if all your screws are tightened? Towers motors etc.
as tight as i can get them by hand, yes
i checked them last night wheni redid the belts/gantry
Belttension is also the same I guess?
would increasing the current help?
No. I‘m running the stepper online 2.5A steppers with 0.9Amps.
2209s?
yeah
The last I can think of is:
Maybe the drivers
Or the stepper themselves
those can handle up to 1.2
i have some things in the orbitool o2s cfg so i'm including that as well.
and they shouldn't be overheating i have a large noctua fan over the board as well that keeps it pretty cool
i know it's terribly disorganized right now, i'll clean it up eventually once i get this figured out. lol
minumum cruise ration is at .55? default is .5
Any reason for the increase value?
you've got endstop_pin: orbitoolO2S:PA2 listed twice in the config
i think i was just trying things to make it work. idk. i only see it once in printer.cfg?
ah yep i wasn't looking in there
you using the 2.5 orbiter?
yes, 2.5
make sure to update your microsteps
https://www.orbiterprojects.com/orbiter-v2-5/
too bad it doesn't matter if i can't figure out why i'm missing steps. lol
Try to switch your drivers. Take your z drivers and put them into your xy and try to print something
Ok. I have some extras I think laying around as well
I reran the test speed after switching the drivers. Here's the results. Printing something now as well
This was speed 300 accell 3000
I checked the belt tension as well and they were about 135 each so I may have to lower that slightly on each side.
X is very slightly off now
Do you have any skew correction settings set in your slicer or in your startup routine?
Nope
Puuuh… one last thing. Are your linearrail blocks properly lubed?
i actually cleaned and relubed them last night after the cube. the steps are a little better but x is still missing 3 and y is missing 1
i looked up the data sheet for the btt drivers, it looks like they have a max of 2A. do you think increasing the amperage would help
With your settings of 16Microsteps it’s fine to be within -15 and + 15
Did you try to use the z stepper drivers in xy to rule out that the drivers are faulty?
that's with them switched out
i'm about to just take it all apart and rebuild it again
it's gotta be binding somewhere
unless all the drivers or steppers are causing the issue
i'm also going to reprint the stepper towers i think, maybe not in the white ABS as it can warp sometimes
First couple layers the temp wasn't high enough, but damn this looks pretty good. Relubed the rails, putting a little more on them than last time, and also increased the current to 1.3(this might not of been necessary. Not sure.)
Just need to fix the layer line issue, but it looks pretty square now.
Printed at 400 speed, 4000 acceleration
Waaaaay better. pA tuning and you don’t need to run your motors that high, especially on printed towers. Sooner or later they will melt.
Yep they were making a noise i didn't like i will change that later tonight. Thanks for all the help btw
You‘re welcome.
If you want an „easy“ stepper tuning https://github.com/andrewmcgr/klipper_tmc_autotune
if you want a more precise one, but you need an accelerometer
https://github.com/eoyilmaz/chopper-resonance-tuner/blob/main/wiki/chopper_tuning_guide_english.md
oh cool. i didn't realize there was another tuning algo other than input shaping. i think i have an extra adxl standalone sensor somewhere but it doesn't really advise how to attach it to get the shaping results. i only have the one built into the cartographer and then O2S board i am using installed right now. (only using the one on the cartographer currently, though)
also is it suggested to replace the z motors or are the Ender 5 plus ones fine?
Im using the stock 42-34. on my hydra without any problems
Thanks again for the help I finally got a chance to work on it. Turns out the screw holding the bottom of the x extrusion kept coming loose. Causing that gantry to not be secure. Got a decent print as far as layers go. Just need to work on some other settings.