Project Catahoula | Zero G | Page 1

tawny lynx Oct 12, 2025, 5:18 PM

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Project #3

What:

Nebula 370 frame (LDO) in Space Gray
ACM/Polycarbonate panels and doors
LDO Stardust Gray / Light Blue ABS
Full Metal Gantry - 9MM - which may get some laser treatment if I can decide what pattern to use
All black hardware

Hardware:

SLM Printed Hydra Arms and Mini Tanks - which may get some laser treatment if I can decide what pattern to use

FYSETC CNC Sherpa Mini
Slice Mosquito Magnum+ 100W
Mellow (VZ) CNC Tool Head
Cooling - Mellow CPAP
Mellow Magneto Filament Cutter

Open Beta run 2** Nema 17 2.85A RMS rated classified steppers by HoneyBadger
Gates GT2 9mm Belts
LDO-42STH40-1684 steppers for Z (Hydra)
Fabreeko Honeybadger 275MM build plate/edge to edge heater
TR8x4 Leadscrews - PEEK Nuts

BTT Octopus Pro 728 main board
Pi 4B - 8GB with 512gb SSD
FYSETC H36 Toolhead Board
BTT U2C
BTT SFS 2.0 - Maybe
BTT TMC 5160 Pro

Mean Well UHP 200 350-24
Mean Well UHP 200-48
Mean Well LRS 50-5 Power (for Pi/LED)
Filtered IEC switched power inlet
MDPC-X Sleeving - Maybe

Daylight on a stick LED lighting
Camera - Arduino

SUAFT or Bento Box - depending on fitment of the SUAFT and bed clearance.

CFLAP - Flap controlled CPAP

After complete, integrate 8 lane box turtle because I have the parts. Not sure it will get much use, but it will be a challenge to work with.

A filament sensor and better input path to the Sherpa Mini CNC will be needed - I have some thoughts on that, but need to get some headway first.

Initial parts are printed for the skirt and feet, working on getting e-bay sorted, then hit the motion system. The parts printer is pushing out parts, and a PC enclosure is the goal, with no insualtion as this printer will be mainly a PLA printer for now. Though it would not be a stretch to insulate this as I did in my Project Chaos build.

I made some design changes on the panels to allow for a bowdent entry at the front center of the top to make printing TPU easier, or from a standalone dryer box, as well as adding the same entry to the back panel. This will give me 3x ponts of entry, corner, top, and back. PC should handle heat should I decide to go higher temp with the build.

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Not sure which direction I'll run the DIN rails on this. Space will be at a premium. SSR and U2C still need a home. AC power will run down the right side and DC will be on the left. I have some terminals to use for the DC which will hopefully save some space over WAGO connectors - which will still be used for the AC input side of things. I'll likely run that under the back right corner behind the PSU next to the IEC inlet. 22AWG FEP for the DC side, and 14AWG on the AC will follow my other builds. I may not sleeve this one and go with a single color wire - not sure yet.

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grizzled rune Oct 13, 2025, 12:31 AM

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this is my nebula setup

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im only running 1 psu 350-24v meanwell and the long black box powers my rasberry pi and the box has 4 5dcv usb ports

tawny lynx Oct 13, 2025, 12:36 AM

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grizzled rune this is my nebula setup

Nice build! After getting the metal stepper mounts together, traditional left to right will be the way, but I'll likely swap everything reverse from my original quick layout. PSUs to the front, main board in the back, remaining in the middle. That will give me the most room I think. I'll have the SSR and U2C in a couple of days and can get a "final" layout set. Or at least until I change something.

grizzled rune Oct 13, 2025, 12:37 AM

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i ran a nitehawk 36 tool head board

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and it u look in the picture u can see it next to the ssr

tawny lynx Oct 13, 2025, 12:38 AM

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The FYSETC High Temp rating was what got me on this board. And the pre-made cable. Terminating the wires isn't that big of a deal, but saving some time on this build would be helpufl. I think It took almost a year on the last build.

grizzled rune Oct 13, 2025, 12:38 AM

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it took me 3 months to get it pushing plastic

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and the nitehawk has a premade cable from the adapter board to toolhead board

tawny lynx Oct 13, 2025, 12:39 AM

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Good to know

grizzled rune Oct 13, 2025, 12:39 AM

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im going to be doing a 370 build next year

tawny lynx Oct 13, 2025, 12:40 AM

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The size difference is something else. It was a bear to move my plus across the house and get it on a table by myself. Next time someone will have to help on that.

grizzled rune Oct 13, 2025, 12:41 AM

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try moving a cr10s5

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thats a bear to move aswell

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thats the next machine im doing core xy conversion to

tawny lynx Oct 13, 2025, 11:09 PM

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Metal parts roughly cleande up and tapped where needed. The SLM parts need some attention on mating surfaces as they are not all that flat in those areas. Quick work with a file.

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I can clean up the metal gantry parts with sandpaper to unify the finish, or drop in the tumbler again. I prefer a more satin finish, or I cold hit them all with some walnut and shine them up pretty good. Still deciding on whether or not to get the laser out.

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The metal gantry parts took a quick trip with the air grinder and an abrasive pad to clean up the last little bits.

tawny lynx Oct 15, 2025, 2:11 AM

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RS-50-5 mount done. A quick couple minutes in Fusion. Skillset still lacks there but it’s coming along.

tawny lynx Oct 15, 2025, 10:54 PM

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WAGO mounts for the AC power done. Added some labels and these will mount under the deck trim in front of the IEC pushing all that wiring out of sight. I think the PSU arrangement where it is now and tucking the SSR between the RS-50-5 and the U2C will be nicely hidden and away from all the DC and signal wires.

tawny lynx Oct 15, 2025, 11:25 PM

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U2C and SSR arrived a few minutes ago - I think this layout will work. Not too bad for the somewhat cramped space. Should still have plenty of room to work.

broken ridge Oct 15, 2025, 11:49 PM

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The color combo looks awesome

tawny lynx Oct 16, 2025, 12:02 AM

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broken ridge The color combo looks awesome

Thanks.

tawny lynx Oct 18, 2025, 7:53 PM

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This is what I may laser onto the FMG parts.

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Printing the jig for the F1 now

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tawny lynx Oct 19, 2025, 2:01 AM

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Just waiting on the second jig to finish printing. Tomorrow I'll set the laser back up and see how this turns out.

tawny lynx Oct 19, 2025, 5:39 AM

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tawny lynx Oct 20, 2025, 1:49 AM

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Well, spent the day working on a bad pool timer and chasing a leak in the tile line. Fixtures done and ready. The patina on the metal looks good - a couple days in the vibratory tumbler with some 70 grit aluminum oxide. The second pic shows the FMG parts after a wet tumble with ceramic media and an untouched SLM hydra arm.

tawny lynx Oct 22, 2025, 12:21 AM

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I think these turned out pretty well.

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tawny lynx Oct 25, 2025, 5:50 PM

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Quick release hinges done, and some heat sets in for the stepper towers, SUAFT, and hinges.

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tawny lynx Nov 1, 2025, 4:04 AM

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Rails wiped down and new grease in the carriages.

tiny smelt Nov 4, 2025, 2:10 PM

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I dig that color scheme 👀 and oh the documentation is amazing 🤩

tawny lynx Nov 9, 2025, 1:31 AM

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Working the CPAP mount - with SUAFT on a Pro, space is limited. I have an amended CFLAP design I will try - a metal mount and PC faces - and working off of others mods on Pintables will try and run sensorless. That will at least remove a couple wires. I modified the SUAFT mount that FISHYFABSPNW did to make room for the controller. Test print of the SUAFT mount in progress now.

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tawny lynx Nov 9, 2025, 4:17 PM

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This will work. Now to finish the modified CFLAP and order some parts from SCS.

tawny lynx Nov 9, 2025, 5:24 PM

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Towers and x-joints next. Just about mechanically set up. Wiring next.

tawny lynx Nov 11, 2025, 6:13 PM

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A quick mod on the stepper towers for the extra 5mm bolt mod. (in advance of the formal release of the updated files for FMG) On my other machine (project chaos) I put the added bolt in the back corners, but there isn't room for standoffs there - I clearly misunderstood the proper location of this mod before I drilled the holes out. I'll likely upgrade that machine to the new FMG when its released.

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The modified Flap Operated CPAP contraption is ready for the laser cut parts which I should have next week. Looking forward to getting this installed and see how the sensorless stops on this will work eliminating the switch. Remix of the original from Vitals78. Ducts are part of the body, set for 15mm ID CPAP hose to match the VZ CNC duct as well as the same area for the bypass as the ducts provide. Went with PC instead of acrylic to allow for a high temp chamber and hopefully eliminate issues with heat soaking the plastic. Shown below with the original size acrylic backer.

https://github.com/vitals78/Flap-controlled-CPAP/tree/main?tab=readme-ov-file

GitHub

GitHub - vitals78/Flap-controlled-CPAP: The design of the print coo...

The design of the print cooling fan, controlled by a flap, allows more precise cooling of overhangs. - vitals78/Flap-controlled-CPAP

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tawny lynx Nov 11, 2025, 8:51 PM

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Some more laser. Lead screw tattoos done.

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tawny lynx Nov 14, 2025, 4:55 AM

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Waiting on some bearings and I can close up the FMG.

tawny lynx Nov 16, 2025, 6:06 PM

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Using a spare stepper mount that I boogered up comes a grinding jig for the set screws on the live idler. The air grinder should make quick work. A little loctite to hold them in place till they are final size should work (I hope).

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tawny lynx Nov 19, 2025, 1:59 AM

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FMG built out. Looking at the CAD (9mm) - the top plates are co-planar so I measured the bearing and idler positions from the top plates after installing the screws. I left some play .5mm or so with each idler bearing on the X and front tower joints. The toothed idlers are set to bracket the “play” on the remainder of the system. Once she has her belts on we shall see how I did. On my other build with FMG this is how I fixed my original shimming issues. Large single bearings for the bearing stacks vs the three bearing assembly as well.

grizzled rune Nov 21, 2025, 4:12 AM

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just got all my fmg parts yesterday in the mail

tawny lynx Nov 22, 2025, 1:26 AM

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grizzled rune just got all my fmg parts yesterday in the mail

Nice! Take your time shimming the bearing stacks even before you install. The belts will need to be routed into the x and y mounts before you close them up - I've not been able to route the belt with them together myself.

grizzled rune Nov 22, 2025, 6:20 PM

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ok

tawny lynx Nov 24, 2025, 1:41 AM

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Hotend 90% done. Waiting on the full extruder - this is the frame from the black conversion on the second merc. Got most of the SCS parts in the for the modified CFLAP - the Catahoula is now on the mount - worked out pretty well after painting and then baking in the filament dryer for a day. (way too humid here for painting this past week). I should have spent a bit more time working the image, but it looks way better and more clear in person. In the end, it'll likely not be noticed. She makes my neck hurt anyway . . . .

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tawny lynx Dec 4, 2025, 10:30 PM

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Shifting gears a bit on this one - I want to build the two BT kits I have after this printer, and will run them on it as well. To that end, the Magnum+ doesn't seem like the right hotend. So the Pica in an A4T will be the new direction. Waiting on the PICA to ship, and have the needed parts for the A4T to show up and I'll get those printed out. SCS should have the front mount x parts to me next week some time as well. The e-bay is cramped, so I'll modify the plan and remove the 5v PSU, add a Toquecan hat on the pi, remove the U2C and the USB Hub, and that will leave room for the MoarCAN board should I need more than two connections. The toolhead board will use one on the hat, leaving a single open CAN connection. I need to think about adding a connection on the back of the printer to allow for external connections without having to run through the skirt into the e-bay should I want to disconnect the BT. I have some more planning to do before I do too much more on this build.

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CPAP also goes away on this one, but I'll port it across to the next build and likely add the sensorless setup to my Chaos build. I'll work on that printer, after I get this one finished.

tawny lynx Dec 6, 2025, 6:08 PM

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Ok, Pi pancake is built. Hub and U2C are on the street. I'll load the firmware shortly and terminate the fan. I ended up using some M3x3 heatset inserts to space the hat from the heatsink to allow the USB bridge connector. Just about 50mm in total height with the NVME bottom and hat installed from the top of the DIN Rail. Just enough room in height to fit in the ebay. Some nylon washers are under the hat to insulate the nylock nuts to make sure I don't short out any of the traces should the paint get scratched through. M3x14 were a perfect length for this.

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tawny lynx Dec 6, 2025, 6:28 PM

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I am thinking about re-printing the skirt and using the Cantilever skirt set as it is a bit taller - but I'm not quite sure just yet. A power switch will be added to the front skirt though, I don't want to reach behind the printer to power things off, or I may swap the rear inlet to the back right side. The power cable I have for this printer has as 90degree plug and would allow the switch to be forward.

shell coyote Dec 6, 2025, 7:28 PM

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what are these black spacers, im not gonna be using the NVME just the pi, and toque can hat, did the toque come with m2.5 standoffs or m3 standoffs?

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Oh i think i see what it is now thats the heatsink you added as well

tawny lynx Dec 6, 2025, 9:56 PM

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shell coyote what are these black spacers, im not gonna be using the NVME just the pi, and to...

yes, the black portion was the heatsink. The standoffs in the kit are 2.5 and the right height. On a side note - the USB adapter in the box with the hat is a m/f version that will not bridge the two boards. His original design he used a short 90 degree usb cable. I saw on his site the longer version meant to bridge the hat and Pi for the power distribution down to the pi. Don't ask how I caught that when I did the mad dash black friday ordering, but I'll jsut say it was dumb luck

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shell coyote Dec 6, 2025, 9:57 PM

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i bought the adapter as well

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so thats good

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lol

tawny lynx Dec 6, 2025, 9:57 PM

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Sweet. I would have been a bit beside myself had I not caught that and had to order more stuff. I hate making 3 orders from the same place in a day or two because of . . . . . well you know

tawny lynx Dec 7, 2025, 3:23 AM

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A4T printed, and removing the supports was fairly easy, but a couble in the bottom were a royal pain. A second head is on the printer now - the fitment is really tight, and knowing me, I'll break something. Havinvg a spare will be good to. Not sure if I'll stay with the ABS for this one, I may break out the PPS CF over the holiday break and make one out of that. We shall see how that anneals in the oven and if I can keep it from warping.

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This will need some clean up as well, it is a bit rough. Hopefully the second one comes out a bit better. This was printed slow, the new one is at normal speeds.

tawny lynx Dec 12, 2025, 2:20 AM

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CNC Carriage is here, just need the Pica to ship and I can get this together and on the printer. Maybe I can get everything aside from the hot end done this weekend.

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tawny lynx Dec 14, 2025, 4:49 AM

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Front mount x joints showed up tonight. I'll clean them up and get them in the tumbler so I can laser them to match.

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tawny lynx Dec 22, 2025, 1:21 AM

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I'm finding that the 6061 aluminum does not take the same shaded effect with tumbling as the remainder of the FMG parts. Turns out they are in 7075 - which is out of stock. So, more on order once SCS has material on hand.

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Bed drilled for a screw in thermistor, heater and magnet installed. A little closer.

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tawny lynx Jan 7, 2026, 4:04 AM

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The FYSETC Sherpa Mini housing has a square filament entry on the housing. 30 seconds with a carbide cutter then a bit with a diamond bit put a chamfer on the filament entry, now no matter the shape of the filament, or the angle, it will easily enter the extruder. Without this taper its a chore to get fialment to feed reliably. Ideally this will assist with the Box Turtle that is on the horizon for this build.

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tawny lynx Jan 19, 2026, 3:25 PM

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Got PPS-CF/GF tuned in another printer and ran an A4T tool head. This will likely be what I install and run since it shouldn’t be affected by any heat. Could use a little more tuning but for a complicated print with tough filament I’m happy. Gray is the GF and black the CF.

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After annealing no major changes, but most important the fit is still spot on between the two types. CF and GF have different shrinkage and these all fit perfectly still.

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Lastly a slight nod on the rear skirt for a CNLINKO connector to allow a covered (when not used) CAN connection to run the BT. Should keep the wiring neat and easy if I move or remove the BT.

tawny lynx Feb 3, 2026, 1:29 AM

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Disco on a Stick XXL mounts and diffusers. Housing in PPS-GF and the diffusers are clear PCTG.

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broken ridge Feb 3, 2026, 1:39 AM

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Those diffusers turned out great. Did you have to print them slow to get them to come out so clear?

tawny lynx Feb 3, 2026, 3:55 AM

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broken ridge Those diffusers turned out great. Did you have to print them slow to get them to...

Nope - printed at 250mm/s 270 nozzle / 85 bed in a .5 Bozzle. I think I could run the hot end a little hotter and that may help make it more clear, but these have just enough "frosted" appearance that it kind of covers the LED's but should not hinder the light too much at all. The first couple of layers are crystal clear.

tawny lynx Mar 31, 2026, 12:20 AM

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3D0 chamber camera mount ready, will go on the center of the top extrusion in front. Should give a great view of the chamber and be well out of the way. Sensorless end stop done up to keep the carriage from sliding partially off of the rail. I don't want to loose any of the bearings while in use. This should give maximum range on the bed with the A4T using the carriage as the striking surface for the stop, and the rear stepper mounts will act for the Y movement.

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There isn't much room to allow the belt path to go unobstructed, and I wanted a minimal stop - fingers crossed that once I get the toolhead built it still provides all the needed clearance. With the A4T body in place, there is plenty of clearance left and right.

tawny lynx Apr 3, 2026, 12:09 AM

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6 days after ordering, SLM filament sensor for the Sherpa Mini CNC in hand. Just need to chase a couple of holes and then tap, paint, install.

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glad narwhal Apr 4, 2026, 8:09 PM

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tawny lynx 6 days after ordering, SLM filament sensor for the Sherpa Mini CNC in hand. Jus...

what MMU are you going to use?

tawny lynx Apr 4, 2026, 8:37 PM

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glad narwhal what MMU are you going to use?

I have a couple BT kits. Thinking of putting one each on this one and Talon, or I may combine into a single 8 lane setup.

glad narwhal Apr 4, 2026, 8:37 PM

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tawny lynx I have a couple BT kits. Thinking of putting one each on this one and Talon, or...

there is a new beta buffer/hub if you use that you dont need a filament sensor

tawny lynx Apr 4, 2026, 8:39 PM

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glad narwhal there is a new beta buffer/hub if you use that you dont need a filament sensor

I was tracking that, but when I am running in bypass I want to have a sensor. I'm putting one of these on all of the printers. Shouldn't harm anything, and if it does, it is super simple to remove. I've alos got a couple Snapping Turtles on order - hoping those don't take too long to get here once the initial run gets going

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I will have to look for the new beta file - I was thinking initially it was the standard buffer.

tawny lynx May 25, 2026, 11:48 PM

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Electronics bay wiring is done - minus the toolhead wiring harness and CAN cable for the Box Turtle.

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