#8WD Merc+ 48V
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
i also can't find the klippy log and it won't download from the ui
uninstalled using kiauh and it still isnt working.... may just redo it all again and leave out klipper backup this time....
That's really odd.
It's so weird. like everything in the log checks out. it loads all the mcus and everythig but my ui wont leave this:
Restart again?
Wait did you do kaiuh on Debian or mainsail ks
Hmmm
raspberry pi lite os. it all worked perfectly until i did the klipper backup install script and restarted lol
Klipper backup install?
lets you backup all your files to github
yeah i'm not gonna use it from now on
it was working fine but maybe it and shake n tune don't like each other or something
cause it borked last time after i installed shake n tune
Could be
whelp. time to wipe the sd card and start again xD
Also shake tune needs those file changes
Awesome
Are you using stock Klipper or Kalico?
kalico, bleeding edge branch currently
Same.
I'm seeing if it'll come back up after this reboot. if its still messed up i'll start over. i have all the commands and files saved so should take maybe another 30 mins
had to take it back upstairs again but finally got it on the network. time to install klipper and hope it all works lmao
okay everything except klipper backup reinstalled. time to hook it up and see if it works
@hidden basin does input shaper work with shake n tune with our setup or was it just the one you sent earlier?
nvm i see it does
Yeah sorry
no need to apologize!
plugged everything in now we wait
same issue. oof
reinstalled klipper that didnt work. uninstalling fluidd and installing mainsail to see if that works
nope. wiping for the third time. not even going to bother with shake n tune or klipper backup just extended corexy and beacon lol
then i'll swap cnc toolhead on
Kalico right?
Correct
I had it working with everything until I did shakentune. It previously messed up my other printer too so I’m just gonna avoid that plugin lol
Roger just merged the sweeping resonance port
So that might fix it
ahh okay, i'll just wait and pass on it. i've tried installing it 3 times today and it broke the install each time.
at this point i just want it printing and the cnc toolhead on it xD
Totally fair
If you have time at some point I'd like to troubleshoot though
I prefer to make sure we didn't mess up anywhere
yeah i may give it a shot another time. I have a spare microsd we can use and do it from scratch
i think i just figured it out....
when i would copy over my old moonraker config it was overwriting the new one and the new one was different in the [server] section
[server]
host: 0.0.0.0
port: 7125
klippy_uds_address: /home/bgoat/printer_data/comms/klippy.sock
[server]
host: 0.0.0.0
port: 7125
max_upload_size: 1024
New file on top. old one on bottom
That might have something to do with it
i updated the old one
i kinda want to try it again lol
at least shakentune.... maybe klipper backup
lol that was it
Well
i still havent installed klipper backup. maybe tomorrow but at least its working
lesson learned lol
Glad it's working now
thank you 🙂 me too
whelp something's off
i wonder if something is binding. I'll have to look into it
i feel like i'd know though cause i ran it at 100k accel yesterday
The accels are missing
I tried running the normal command and it’s missing greenlet. I tried installing it but it didn’t work so I’m reinstalling numpy and seeing if that fixes it
sudo apt install python3-greenlet
I’ll probably do cnc toolhead in the morning
Then another one will fail and do the same thing but with the missing package
I think there are 3 of em
Dope ty I was trying to use pip and then just did sudo apt install greenlet I didn’t do python3-greenlet
Sweet I’ll do that
Thank you
My Linux is rusty lol I deal mainly with windows servers and Macs. I need to incorporate more Linux 🤣
I have some windows servers and I hate em, Linux all the way lol
Oh but way better than IBM AIX
That wins as the worst
My work is mainly windows. There some Linux stuff but we’re split up. I may try and dip my toes into it more but then that’s just more for me to do 🤣. Thankfully I haven’t had to mess with aix yet.
Hopefully you never have to. IBM is the absolute worst
We use them for our windows support 🤣🤣. Defintley not a fan
running it the normal way after installing the rest of the dependencies. trying shakentune now to see if those fixed it too
i can try it out and see
Mines completely torn apart rn lol
30T upgrade
oh hell yeah
i may swap to cnc toolhead in the morning and see if i can get better speed results
lol nope same issue wth
Wack
forreal
i'm doing the old fasioned way for y right now then i'll have befores and afters for toolhead
Honestly yeah I’m shocked I got it tensioned/set up right the first time without any play
Now time to screw it all up and throw on the cnc toolhead 🤣🤣🤣
it really is. it resonated from 75 to like 100 and was super loud. i thought it was gonna be a crap graph but nope. crispy
ayeeee 8t or 10t motor? did you do plus or low?
i can send over my config if you need it
8t
Plus
The water cooooooled one though
So you don't need a heatbreak on Goliath
should still be same config as mine then
[extruder]
step_pin: octo:PF13
dir_pin: !octo:PF12
enable_pin: !octo:PF14
microsteps: 16
#Alu VZhextrudort Moons 8T
rotation_distance: 35.8
gear_ratio: 60:8
nozzle_diameter: 0.4
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA0 # HE0
sensor_pin: PF4 # T0
sensor_type: PT1000
#control: pid
#pid_Kp: 28.737
#pid_Ki: 1.935
#pid_Kd: 106.684
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 400
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
max_extrude_only_distance: 1000.0
max_extrude_cross_section: 500
max_extrude_only_velocity: 200
max_extrude_only_accel: 10000
min_extrude_temp: 180
pressure_advance: 0.025
pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.03
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: octo:PC4
##diag_pin: PG6
run_current: 0.95 #.85
interpolate: false
sense_resistor: 0.110
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999
Mine's the 8t plus with goliath as well
the pins will probably be different and i did .95 since you ran yours at that and it hasnt gotten hot at all lmao this motor is amazing
of course!
Okay question do you feel like that duct gives you enough cooling. I think you went with option one and I’m on option 2. I may try out one and see if there’s improvement
More than enough
Okay cool if I run into issues I may try that one out
Igotta do some testing
I have the bom for a Sherpa mini I may try out
Maybe try 1.0 for extruder? Idk how much that’ll help
@sturdy tide tmc autotune?
dont put 1.0 on the nema14 pancakes (if we are talking run current)
Not yet I got cnc swapped though and it’s doing a test print
the ldo and moons are rated for 1 Amp max rms
so 0.95 should be the highest you set it to
I wouldnt go above 0.85
Ahh okay should I do .85 max? It’s on .95 right now
Ahh okay
also if your extruder needs too much force your hotend is limiting
It doesn’t get hot and it doesn’t need the force it was mainly to see how much flow I could get on top end testing
I know its a goliath
but there is just so much plastic you can push through a 0.4mm nozzle
your extruder is not the limiting factor
hotend and physics are
or rather should not be the limiting factor
I’ve had some different results from extruders. my lgx lite caps out at 25mms3 and I know it’s not the hotend. That’s why I’m swapping to Sherpa mini
But yes I do feel like that’s true it shouldn’t be the limiting factor
I havent really pushed my sherpa too much
but for such high flow rates I wouldt use bmg gears but something bigger like HGX or galileo2
you need grip
lgx lite might have capped out due to the fixed position idler gear
Oh yeah I figured it was cause of the gears. So far the hextrudort has been great. I’m gonna lower the run current to .85.
you can try 1.0
but its a lot for that stepper
another issue you might run into with metal extruders:
stepper getting hot, metal carrying that heat to the filament, filament getting soft, issues
Also you will cold extrude or strip the filament so it wont be of any use
At 0.8A on my orbiter and the the screw full tight the filament strips before the extruder skips steps
FYI I had to change my extuder rotation distance to 28.85
It was uber underextruding
Which dropped my throughput to 40mm/s
So idk what is going on
Does it have the filament input built in? Like a red grommet
Oh no
The gears are different so I think it has a different ratio
Okay I think it’s the low one second
gear_ratio: 50:8
Standard version is what you want. Mine was the plus so 60:8
Also I had to shim my gears so there wasn’t any wobble with them. I noticed when I put the motor on the gears moved back and forth a little bit
So just double check that and I used the m5 x 1 shims I had but I think m3 ones would work too.
At least it’s a simple fix and you didn’t get a defective one 🤣🤣
Yeah no kidding haha
Did that fix it?
Calibrating
I still haven’t calibrated my esteps ☠️☠️. I just used what was in that GitHub and it’s looked good. I should probably double check it
Well found out why my other one was so good
9.5:1 vs 6.25:1
I'm having major issues with this one, I think I need the plus
Whenever I try to print fast even within the normal bounds it just stops extruding, doesn't have enough torque for those fast moves I guess? Idk
Problem is I have to stick with vz-hextrudort or I have to put the whole heat break back together and install again
I can't even get a 10 min benchy anymore let alone the 4 min ones I was doing
Holy shit. That’s so weird though that other people run them no issue. Could you return it and grab the plus? I know a place in the states I got mine from if you don’t wanna wait for Ali express
Is the extruder WC too or just the hotend?
The extruder is the WC now
The heatbreak goes into the extruder now, and then that is WC
Which is why I am so annoyed, I have to redo the whole thing to switch back 😦
I think I am going to just grab the WC hotend heatbreak, slap the HGX back on and call it a day
That thing pushes like a freight train
It was also only $27 lol
Yeah that may be easier. I found a place in the states I bought mine from but the pictures say plus but the listing says the low so may need to shoot them a message
The gear of this extruder is made of hardened steel with a strength of 55, which can withstand long printing periods without damaging the gear. To improve the concentricity of extrusion and the stability of filament passage, we adopted an integrated shaft gear design based on the suggestion of the VzBoT team, and produ
That is the exact one I bought
Hmmm I wonder if I should swap mine out for that 🤔
Hmm maybe it is the low then and not the plus
It’s weird cause some of the pics have the ptfe insert
Yeah that’s the one I got
Could I use the same motor for the hgx lite?
You need a 10T
Does it need an adapter plate?
Yeah I made one for it
I have one in a drawer I was gonna use for the Sherpa mini lol
Then again I was able to hit 4:20 benchy without tuning with my extruder so I don’t think I’m limited by it…
you have 7.5 ratio which is def an improvement
over 6.25
20%
This was a 50% reduction in gear ratio for me
Damn yeah that’s a big drop
Wouldn’t make sense to buy a plus and the wc hotend block
When you already have the hgx
Even on Ali?
yeah
I just found this on AliExpress: $15.00 | Mellow 60T 12MM Gear All Metal CNC Vz-Hextrudort-Low/WC Plus Extruder For VzBoT 330 VZ235 HevORT Voron 3D Printer
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtqccjz
Set 3 or 4
wtf
But you know you want 3 cause black over silver 100% 😎
Yeah the filament input is a good indicator to tell the difference between the low and the plus
Yeah good call
Maybe you can return your low to recoup the cost
Ah ok I see, the description is wrong for the other one,
what a PITA
Facts
I’m glad I went with the plus now over the normal one. I was debating which extruder for awhile 🤣
Still wanna try orbiter but I don’t need to keep buying parts I won’t use ☠️ unless I use them for another build
Which of the mentioned gear ratios is from the extruder with issues?
And that the one with issues?
Yeah
You have a 10t stepper by any chance?
What happens if you swap that one in and change the gear ratio?
Was going to give that a shot
Put a 2504 for your extruder motor 🤣
That should have enough pressure
Yeah maybe 10t will work better for the low
Just dreading it because it will separate the watercooling plate, which means rebleeding the system and everything again lol. Might just leave it off for now until I figure out what I am doing.
My opinion on that is contrary to popular belief
A lot of people like it cause higher ratio = more torque
But what a lot of people forget imo is that higher ration also means the stepper has to spin faster to get the same rotation on the drive gear (low gear bike, you don't need force but a lot of pedaling)
And steppers loose torque with speed
Which why imo 10t is preferable
Can't you just change the stepper?
Only stepper, nothing else
The stepper has a watercooling plate
Also I know that the screw is way too long, had to order the right size
Oh
And that kids is why we don't use watercooling😂
Ok
But jokes aside
Is the stepper skipping or the filament grinding?
Damn yeah that’d be hard to get the motor out by itself
He said it just stops extruding
So maybe it’s skipping
I need to figure out how to thermally separate extruder housing from the filament
That way I could use the housing as heatsink
Probably by using PTFE tube right up to the gears
No metal near the filament
Could be both
But they indicate different issues
Skipping means stepper is not strong enough (or hotend is not extruding enough)
Grinding means the latter
Definitely
All of these look better quality than any of my benchies so far 😭. I need tmc autotune today
Yeah true, if it’s just grinding the filament hopefully easy fix just unscrew the tension some
I do have my wheel barely tensioned. These extruders grip filament insanely well
quick tip on the hextrudort to avoid issues and properly tension it.
@hidden basin try that video I wonder if you have it tensioned too much for the filament
Ok that wasn't as bad as I thought lol
ayeee nice. if the 10t is the same it may be the filament tension
I mean this seems good so far, and @fast ingot made a good point about torque
yeah true
i just dont want to have to deal with the cable bundle right now xD
i'll see how good the 10t sherpa mini is and may swap it on here instead of the enderxy or buy another 10t moons or ldo
That's why I added this quick connect
i may have to add one
alright time to figure out tmc autotune
@fast ingot I LOVE YOU NO HOMO
nice at least you dont have to replace it
Still not quite what I need. Under extruding with a 10 min benchy
dope that should work better. I'm curious if you stay with 10t on it if it'll be worth me swapping to.
would the rotation distance need to be different
Just the gear ratio
are you doing moons or ldo? I'll probably pick one up next time i order printer stuff
Maybe a small tune to rotation distance
Prob ldo, have had good luck with them so far
thats what the spare one i have is. I'll grab another one of them
@hidden basin for tmc autotune is it just adding the stuff into the printer cfg or do you have to run a macro/command
[autotune_tmc stepper_b]
motor: hb_classified
voltage: 54
tuning_goal: performance
tbl: 0
toff: 1
tpfd: 0
I add that to each motor
[autotune_tmc stepper_c1]
motor: ldo-42sth48-2504ah
voltage: 54
tuning_goal: performance
tbl: 0
toff: 1
tpfd: 0
Here you go for 2504
okay cool @shadow ravine has [autotune_tmc stepper_a]
motor: ldo-42sth48-2504ah
tuning_goal: performance
voltage: 48
Those settings are driver stepper specific
So to recap 10t works better?
okay cool do you have your 2504 one? I'll try it out for all 8
yeah
Nice
Thx for proving my point😂
I'm curious how well my 9t is gonna perform
[autotune_tmc stepper_c1]
motor: ldo-42sth48-2504ah
voltage: 54
tuning_goal: performance
tbl: 0
toff: 1
tpfd: 0
zeanon said the last 3 are driver specific tho, when I looked at autotune it defaulted to
tbl:1
toff:1
tpfd:1
Shooting for that middle ground? haha
Driver stepper specific
okay cool in the github it has tbl at 2
TMC autotune basically just does the calculations from the TMC tuning sheet automatically
So those are fine
Further tuning requires further measurements and stuff
gotcha
is there a process to tune them?
I went through the choppertune a while back but gave up
https://github.com/MRX8024/chopper-resonance-tuner/blob/main/wiki/EN.md is what I was using
Need to modify the scripts tho for our steppers
stepper a, b, c
okay cool and bet
It takes an uber long time, because it tries every option. Like 10+ hours
I gave up after 4 lol
I turned it off because it killed my speeds
cool mine's been off in my config just wasnt sure if i should turn it and stealthchop on
I would leave interpolate off but crank the microsteps as high as possible
Stealthchop definitely off
Don't you lose torque with that
Chopper tuner is pretty good
To do it properly you want to get an oscilloscope and measure the sine wave though
Yes and no
You know how microstepping works?
Yeah, higher micro means smaller steps, which is shorter pulses
At least that is what I got from eddie engineer
We have 2 phases
So 2 coils
Now if we charge one could the stepper will snap into full step
Cause magnets
If we charge both could at 50% it will stay in the center between both
60% 40% means at 2/5 of the way to the next coil
Like if you take two rubber bands that have different strength, knot them together and pull them apart
The knot won't be in the center right?
So you loose torque per microstep
But that does not mean you loose torque overall
Let's say we have 8 microsteps
0_8,1_8,2_8,3_8,4_8,5_8,6_8,7_8
And we have 16
0_16,1_16,2_16,3_16,...
So 0_8 is the same position as 0_16
1_8 = 2_16 and so on
Now let's say our stepper is at 1_16 and we exceed the torque that microstep can hold
We will just snap into 2_16
So same as 1_8
And that microstep will also have the same torque as 1_8
It's a little more complex in reality but I feel like that gives a pretty good idea about it
That makes sense, but wouldn't say 128 or 256 have too many little options though?
I run 256 on all steppers without issues
But it's also personal preference
Or is that the main plus
should i leave 1.6 for the 8 2504s or do 1.75/2?
Up to you, I ran my C steppers lower because the bed was heating them up more
Quieter/smoother
so far on the plus they've stayed pretty cool to the touch with 1.6
I found that my 2504/2240 combo was most happy at 1.5A
That's where they run the smoothest
Plus if you aren't running balls to the walls you dont need the extra
okay cool I'm running 5160 with 48v
oh true i'll probably do 1.5/1.6 for normal printing
balls the to wall all of them will be 2A lmao
okay so after adding the stepper autotune to my config my z trips out and spins
oh wait
i didnt add it for z's or extruders
that didnt fix it. rip
Yo what XD?
That's a new one
that's how it usually goes with me lol
and i have an order i need to print on this so i gotta get it fixed lolol
stepper buzz works and they go in the correct location
g28 basically acts like it goes up then it drops and doesthat
i do have my z's set to .45 run current should i up that maybe?
Yeah probably
.65?
nope same issue
it's spinning too fast
wait my z velocity is set to 100 for some reason let me remove that lmao
nope that didnt do anything
@hidden basin can you share your z config for autotune.
whelp i disabled it and it's still doing the z thing so something else must be the issue
I figured it out lol my bed is hitting my front hybrid motor on the bottom somehow
Build plate shifted -_-
Whelp Ezpz problem resolved time to turn autotune back on and see how it goes 🤣
Running a print with autotune enabled to see if there’s any differences now 🤞🏽
Hahaha
Sorry was watching mine like a hawk
Trying to figure out what this noise is
Think I found it
you're good lol i was like wtf is wrong it was just working xD
what noise?
also same lol
so far this voron cube is doing good
probably gonna print my order next. it's a day long print so may start messing with the enderxy while it prints
rammed the side at mach8 and snapped the circuitboard for the endstop in half, that was rattling, would be mad if I wasn't so impressed
I was speed testing lol
do you have spares? I have a bunch of low profile ones i can send you
It skipped and said WEEEEEEEEEE
lmfaooo
Yeah I have like 10, this is my 3rd or 4th one haha
i have mine at like 200/300 right now but my config is 80k accel
i may go faster but i only have one screw since the screw holes didnt line up with my mount
yeah lol
homing_speed: 200
yeah 200
i was doing 100ish but it kept whining since it was too slow so i upped it to 200 and it's been fine lol
may go faster but dont really see a need for homing
yeah
I need to up my mesh speed though its still 120 i think
starting my longest print since the conversion. 17hr 30 minutes. fingers crossed it goes well. using the full build plate
Do you have exclude object enabled?
@was the hgx better than the Sherpa?
Had to stop the print the hybrid mount snapped yay lol. Reprinting then trying again
They do a plus wc
yeah he ordered one
but so far the 10t with the low is doing good iirc. still not as good as the hgx @hidden basin
Damn, I can get that hgx for like $30 too so weird, super interested in the plus wc, I can just use this hex low for my qidi
I did a alu square tube gantry
i know i'm curious how the plus compares to the hgx too. I'm sure they're all comparable for normal printing its just for chasing speed
i may try picking up a 10t motor to see if it's better for the plus too
I was amazed with that hgx
Just an absolute powerhouse
I mean 9.5:1 is pretty insane
Never once did it skip filament
Was it HGX lite or something else and what stepper did you use?
I was looking at this because it uses LGX gears which I think is the same gear ratio?
Oh and it can use HGX gears?
😬😬
Got the replacement installed 😎 now waiting for the fan shroud to print since it keeps breaking. Also had to go to a m3 x 30mm bolt for tensioning the hybrid on the left side
More walls and infill?
I did it based on merc settings but it feels solid. If it happens again I’ll do more walls and infill
Yeah I think I’ll probably start with fans. At least on the top 4
All the sudden printer started smoking like crazy
Did anything get damaged
Ayeeee
Your profiles have saved me so much tuning time lmao. First large print is looking great so far
Glad to hear it!
Think my skr died
Z won't go up now
Goes down fine lol
Lol wat
That's exactly the reason I am so opposed to water-cooling
Way too scared of that happening
That does not make any sense
Ikr
Give me a few to think what it could be XD
That's expensive
With water-cooling it might make sense to add some sort of mosfet mechanism to the beacon to cut power and data when not in use
A little bath and isopropyl alcohol and a thorough air compressor dry
Back from the dead
Nice
@sturdy tide hows that print coming
Just paused for me to swap out the filament 😎
Please close that ebay
I need to look at what I’d need to do that. Probably have to swap out the chonky psu since it sits a little high
It’s done
looks good!
Thanks! Super happy with how it turned out and my filament runout sensor works 😎 about 1300g total
Got polytera Pla loaded now gonna do a flow test with it and see how it goes. Precurssor says it’s the best
Yeah I was going to print a huge benchy with it
Since I made so many little ones
420%
Could be flow rate?
Oh this was supoosed to be on mine loil
Also this makes me remember I want to come up with a way to recycle and reuse pla without it costing a metric crap ton for equipment 🤣
it’s all good 😎 yours has more people so may get some other opinions 🤣
I need to try speed with the polymaker
@charred ether @sturdy tide I finally started adding all the nuts, Heatsets and screws to the cad so you guys have a chance of knowing the required hardware
What probes are you running?
I'd actually be using cartographer because beacons not really here in Aus
Ok
So I have to modify the mount a little to accommodate for rev d
@sturdy tide you are settled on Sherpa mini?
And @charred ether hextrudort or proto?
I’m running beacon and yeah If we’re doing hextrudort I’d be down to keep my hextrudort and use my Sherpa mini for my other build
Ok
Just fyi
The hextrudort can't sit as low as Sherpa mini as it mounts from below you you need some thickness so it's stable
What m2.5 screw length does the Goliath come with?
I use m2.5x10 cause that's what I have in ti
The holes are easy enoigh to adjust for shorter screws
I used the ones that came with the cnc toolhead I think. Not sure how long they are off the top of my head
I'll also have to see how to do a toolhead board mount for hextrudort
Sherpa mini is easy
Hextrudort might be harder
Still needs some sort of strain relief and I like anchoring the back of the extruder down as well
Makes it way more rigid
Yeah true
I just realized
I can use the Sherpa k-face Heatset to further secure the hextrudort mount
I have an idea
Let me know what you do to fix this. I saw turtles message ab retraction and flow rate so hopefully that works 😁
Proto/hgx, I think they use the same hole pattern, @hidden basin inspired me ahah
Buttttt if the Hextrudort plus works Il definitely use the Hextrudort
Same hole pattern I think
Saves me from buying a new extruder
You do need an adapter for the HHX
I have one tho
I haven't had a chance to work on mine yet house tried to flood itself
hope everything is okay. i had the basement flood like 2 weeks ago when i was finishing up the build. thankfully it didnt make it to the printer room
i probably need to do proper calibration but not sure why the lines look so bad. it has plenty of cooling too
Maybe the cht nozzle 🤷🏽
What nozzle are you using @hidden basin ?
I think he’s using the one that came with the Goliath iirc
I haven’t tried swapping to it yet
I will after this print finishes
Did you have issues with it? So far this vase print is looking good only my benchys lmao
I seem to always havbe issues every time I try it
Same i don’t see how people praise them when ive had nothing but issues lol
Unless im doing something wrong
Lowkey
Forgot i had it in until you said that
If it fixes my benchy problem I am going to lose my mind
Even if it does surely it'd just be better with it on the HGX right? Or is it maybe something that just works better without it in a specific case?
I love your build because I can just wait until you spend the money to test it and then I buy what works
You have become a benchy
In a good way!
I hope it does fix it so I have an easy resolution 🤣🤣
Tried doing a vase and got some weird gaps in the print
I really wanna go back to the hgx but I can't easily
Haha happily! If it saves some other people pain and money I'm all for it
Did nozzle swapping fix it? Maybe I go orbiter or Sherpa mini 🤔. Is there another WC extruder you can use?
It helped a bit but not fixed
Everyone else loves the vz though
So it's gotta be a setup or something
Hmmm I’ll try swapping mine and see how it goes.
I know dude I don’t understand why we both have issues with that and cht nozzles 🤣. Maybe for super fast printing?
Wouldn’t make sense though cause vzbots fly like a mfer
Maybe nozzle will fix it for me and maybe plus is the way to go
I feel that cause like normal prints look fine except for that vase above. It shouldn’t be happening especially at the quality profile speeds like oooof
I could try the Sherpa mini I just need to build it. Otherwise I can order an orbiter 🤔. I have an lgx lite I could try too but idk if it’d be a good option
Yikes see I kept having issues from 6 min to 12 mins. I tried upping cooling that didn’t do anything
I haven’t tried above 12 min
I need to fully calibrate my esteps and just dial them in but idk if that’d do it
I’ve done flow rate and stuff too but it’s just the lines don’t look great on the benchies. Other stuff has been fine like that big ass statue. That was done with 40mms3 capped with petg too
Maybe the filament is too hot at 220 since it’s such a long melt zone 🤔
Also you could try pulling the stuff from the extruder setting on vzbot config and make sure it matches
https://docs.vzbot.org/vz330_mellow/electronics/Printer_Config
Damn 😭
I got better results setting retraction to 0.3 -> 0.1, so I am trying with zero retraction now
Tried temps from 190-230
Everything I can think of
Ooo okay cool. Did you end up having to shim your gears?
I think my retraction is like .5 right now
I’ll try lowering it too
Oh yeah true
I wonder what the vz orca profiles have configured
I think the lgx lite is a direct swap so I could try swapping that in and see if it’s any better
Was it the hgx lite or just the hgx?
lite
Okay cool I added that one to the cart but I’d need a 10T motor for it
With This All Metal Extruder, Users Can Have More Consumables To Choose From When Using A 3d Printer. At The Same Time, Larger Extrusion Wheels Increase The Grip Of Consumables, Tilted Tooth Profiles Increase Friction And Reduce Slipping, Larger Transmission Ratios Increase Torque And Increase Ex...
Also found this but I think it’s the bigger version
I wanna try to get this hextrudort to work or I may swap to orbiter
lol idk, just looks wack
It really does lmao
Maybe if I took the shims out of the extruder? 🤔
Mine isn’t as bad as yours maybe I need to tighten the grip on the filament
It may be that simple
Or I hope it is
I reckon because it's standard for VZbot, head over to the Vzbot discord and ask them
Legit a good idea
Thank you! I was just about to paste it 🤣
Found a couple of posts in troubleshooting that had similar problems with no resolution. One person had better luck lowering temps
I’m combing through the channels now to see
You having the same issues with plus is scaring me
I might need to get the watercooled heatbreak, slap the HGX and call it a day
Well I only seem to have the issues with the fast speeds. The statue looked great and then there’s the layer gaps
#832686227190054982 message
Looks like @livid dome may have some insight for us 👀.
Yeah I’m really debating on swapping to hgx/sherpa or trying out my lgx lite
Have you tried just barely tightening the extruder lever arm?
I feel like if I removed the shims it’d make it worse
I think @fossil turtle uses the hextrudort as well too
#854702637224034314 message
low better for top speed 😭
How
Well I can understand why technically
Gears right, less torque more speed
IN practice tho
Whats the issue?
Pain and suffering
Low is also cheaper
🤣
Flight and I both are getting inconsistent lines I guess is the best way to put it.
#1320853526691319809 message
this pic kinda shows it
It’s like kind of underextruded for his and mine just looks wonky
I think thats more of a cooling and flow issue
Yeah mine may be. I’m gonna mess with that more when I get home. I’m running the plus over the low.
It lookslike its the bowden cuz its happening only on the windows
How much
Like the inner Bowden tube?
I do it by inserting the filament turning until I juststart to feel tension and then 3 half turns
Reverse bowden
I also dont shim mine
It doesnt need it
I shimmed my gears since there was a lot of wobble before I even put it on. Should I try removing the shim?
When you insert the filament it doesnt have any play
Ahhhhh
i folled the vez video guide
Yeah mine has like a mm of play but zero vhen I put filament in
I dont remember what he said lol
Okay cool I’ll try taking them out then and see if it happens after cooling/flow. cpap was at 40% for that benchy. The vase mode was 30% cpap and gaps in the walls don’t make sense
His is basically hold it with your fingers then hit extrude. Once it outgrips your fingers it’s tight enough
What hotend?
That shoul have plenty of flow for a 9 min benchy
I know 😭 and it shouldn’t look that bad
The vase print is weird too
#1320853526691319809 message
Ah yeah I tested it with extruding at diferent flows and the 3 turns method perfomed best
Sweet I’ll give that a shot too after I remove the shim
Hmm maybe flow cali
Yeah I’m gonna try that once I get home and see.
Good luck
Thank you!
If the plus works then hopefully it’ll work for Flight when it gets delivered over the low
That’s what he’s using now with those issues. Mines a plus
Also check if your teeth arent filled with filament dust
Hmm
I know it’s really weird. He is running water cooled though so no heatbreak
😦
Hgx is heavy
Maybe if you take out the shims or did you not shim yours?
Check temps
Check how hot it gets
heatbreak?
Gears
I can’t remember did you shim yours when you installed it or no?
I wanna get this thermal camera lol it’s so cool
nope
I love it
Okay cool I’m gonna try removing mine and see if that helps. If it does then maybe the plus will work better for you
What’s your flow rate at?
Hmmm wtf
Maybe yours needs the shim? 🤣🤣. Thats like the only thing I can think of at this point
You’ve tried everything else
Maybe the ptfe tube is too narrow? 🤷♂️
But that wouldn’t explain everything else lol
Do you still have the plus ordered?
I may try out the Sherpa mini if removing the shim doesn’t work for me but if I can get the plus working then I’ll be set
What if you try a different slicer/slicer profile to rule out a software setting? Does it happen with any print or just benchies?
Yeah I have tried everything
Damn man that sucks so much
Now I feel like I should buy the Sherpa mini just Incase this doesn't work 🤣. I guess I could print the one I need to build and swap it in if that's the case
Insights on what again?
I was mid-interview lol
@sturdy tide what does your filament path look like to the extruder?
Flight’s having some weird issues with his hextrudort low and we were trying to figure out the issue. I think mine is flow related for my issues
I’ll have to get a pic when I get home but it should be straight. I’m gonna remove the shim I have put in and see if that helps
Hopefully it went well 😎
I hope so too, it’s just a CAD technician role so they just wanted to know if I could translate orthographic to isometric and vise versa + tolerances using different standards. Hopefully I’m overqualified in a good way
For extrusion issues:
- check extruder run_current, should be at least 0.85A
- adjust tension on the lever screw (Hextrudort should never be tightened all the way down, it should be rather loose feeling)
- use a reverse Bowden
- tune PA
- stop using PA when it can’t keep up anymore
- can really bring out those issues of not being able to print at speeds
I know he’s done everything except for 4/5 not sure on that
- try to decrease resistance in the spool’s ability to rotate
- have a quesadilla, you deserve a break
Quesadilla sounds so good rn
Getting chick fil a
Quesadilla does sound good
I haven't tried to turn off PA yet
Other than that I've tried it all
Turn off pa hopefully that’s the culprit 🤞🏽
Part of me doubts it’ll fix anything but I’m hopeful. What scv are you running too? Maybe try lowering it?
Chick fil a is always the right move. 😎
But yeah PA will make your extruder scream at super high speeds in my experience, that being said there’s a solid chance I was accidentally using 10x the PA value I was meaning to lol
This was a long time ago but if you can’t hear it screeching you’re probably okay
I've printed a full 1kg roll trying to figure this out
Oh I do have one good suggestion tho
Go sub to The 100 Patreon
He’s doing high speed tuning guides rn
Yeah
for stuff like that synced pa and non linear pa from kalico BEv2 are better
It’s cool but who wants to only print in PLA
Wait isn’t your merc open air
Not for long
Oh nice
If you have multiple printers doesn't matter if one can only handle pla
But what about the super printer
Yes and no. By that logic you shouldn’t need a fast one at all
That can do everything
If the rationale is “well I still have a printer that can technically do it”
I mean for me it's
2 printers that can do abs/asa
2 that can't
I just want to build something for high temp
It’s such an expensive pain though
Maybe that’ll be the halo merc when I get around to finishing it. Even then, aluminum expands a lot with temperature
By building for insane speed I've built for crazy temps haha
I've been there before. It sucks cause it's just a waste 😭
I'd love to enclose my Merc. I have 3 enclosed printers RN so I don't really need more. The t250 would be a fun build
Did flow rate test. Was underextruding a little bit so fixed that. Now trying a 14m benchy to see if it looks like doo doo. If it does I’ll take out the shim and try the same print again to limit changed variables
Gonna check in a sec. Trying to swap the battery in my sisters switch and I think it was the charging port that was dead. Ooof
May need to buy a new port
14:21 there’s no way it should look like this lmao
With your speed profile nothing changed cpap 30% @hidden basin
Gonna unload filament and unshim the extruder
Maybe I need to print the other vz duct 🤔. I removed the shim and it’s printing now but just an idea
While watching this one print I realized I never applied my input shaper recommendations for the cnc toolhead 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
Yeah it's the extruder
Has to be
I mean I'm sure there is some answer but I give up lol
That’s the point I’m at…. Now what extruder do I replace it with 🤔 could do Sherpa mini and keep the same motor
Or I could do orbiter v2.5 with orbitool toolhead board. Or no toolhead board 🤔 plus their inline filament runout sensor but then I need the adapter for the cnc carriage.
Could do the hgx lite like you have too and maybe use same motor.
Maybe pressure Advance?
Tried tuning that with no luck
It seemed to help but still wasn't great. Finally just caved and am going back to old setup
which version of the hex extruder do you have?
8T but I have a motor in a drawer.
Vz hextrudort plus
Flight has the low
Mine has inconsistent lines. I still haven’t swapped out the cht nozzle but idk if that’s the issue.
Idk which extruder to go with now 🤣
What are your settings with extruder?
[extruder]
step_pin: octo:PF13
dir_pin: !octo:PF12
enable_pin: !octo:PF14
microsteps: 16
#Alu VZhextrudort Moons 8T
rotation_distance: 35.8
gear_ratio: 60:8
nozzle_diameter: 0.4
filament_diameter: 1.750
heater_pin: PA0 # HE0
sensor_pin: PF4 # T0
sensor_type: PT1000
#control: pid
#pid_Kp: 28.737
#pid_Ki: 1.935
#pid_Kd: 106.684
min_temp: 0
max_temp: 400
full_steps_per_rotation: 200
max_extrude_only_distance: 1000.0
max_extrude_cross_section: 500
max_extrude_only_velocity: 200
max_extrude_only_accel: 10000
min_extrude_temp: 180
pressure_advance: 0.025
pressure_advance_smooth_time: 0.03
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: octo:PC4
##diag_pin: PG6
run_current: 0.85 #.7
interpolate: false
sense_resistor: 0.110
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999
[autotune_tmc extruder]
motor: moons-cse14hra1l410a
voltage: 24
tuning_goal: performance
tbl: 2
toff: 1
tpfd: 0
I'm gonna try swapping out the nozzle since I'm still using the cht
Maybe it's the nozzle
I can try calibrating it and see after I swap the nozzle
I'm gonna try PA tune before swapping the nozzle just to keep the variables consistent. After that I'll try swapping the nozzle then if none of that works I'll just order a new extruder and motor if I need one
May do this one and keep the 8T as spare and use my current 8T
I actually bought that and then returned it
When I thought my hgx was broken
But it was just needed a small shim
The hgx needed the shim or the Sherpa?
I guess I could buy the hgx lite. Does it need an adapter plate for the cnc toolhead?
Yeah
Hgx
Just to space the motor from the hgx, it was rubbing on the bearing is all
Just a washer
Ahh okay dope. I may just grab one of them then or say f it and buy both 🤣. If I can’t get my plus to work properly. I’m hoping it’s just pa and maybe the cht nozzle
Just fyi, k-face won't work properly with the non mirrored Sherpa on my toolhead
Though CNC Sherpa doesn't really need the k-face
Is there an alternate version that doesn’t have the k face or is that the printed one?
K-face is the faceplate with the additional mounting point below
The fysetc comes with the normal by default
Ahh okay so the one I linked would be fine cause it’s the fystec one
@sturdy tide do you have the heatsinks
I have 2 per motor right now but can buy another 8 for the top motors
I gotta order fans too which ones did you use? Also did you set them to be always on or controlled?
80mm 24v, set them to 80% as controller fan
Here is the mount I used for it, I never finished the fan gaurd but it uses m4 heat inserts for the fans
Dope I’ll have to look up the config for controller fan with 80% but shouldn’t be hard
Sweet thank you’ I’ll grab some m4 heatset inserts too
[controller_fan pump]
pin: PF7
min_power: 0.8
Turns on whenever the heater or steppers are active
Turns off after 15 sec of those being off
Super nice
Sweet that is super nice thank you
Once I get this extruder problem figured out I’ll probably get that ordered with the new extruder if I go that route. I’m hoping it’s PA and the nozzle 🤞🏽
I tried both with no luck 😦 I hope it fixes yours tho
If you go HGX here is the adapter I made for the VZ CNC
Uses m3 heat inserts on the outside mounts
Bolts into the pillars that the belts mount to
I figured and kinda want to go ahead and order a replacement just incase 🤣
Thank you!
Idk if I should do Sherpa or hgx honestly 🤔. Too many damn options
I may just get HGX and use the Hextrudort somehow with my qidi xplus
Yeah I’m thinking of using the hextrudort with one of my other builds. I could just swap the printed Sherpa I’m gonna do with the hgx and not buy another one but if that one’s meant to go fast too then the hextrudort will have the same issues
Yeah tbh I’m kinda leaning towards that cause it’s cheap and I can use my 8T motor. Or should I buy a 10t? I can just use your config then 🤣
HGX has to be a 10
Ahh okay would that one work
AYEEEEEE.
Also that hgx? May just send that over the Sherpa then use my printed Sherpa for the enderxy
I saw that and was curious how it compared
Dope I thought about red but it doesn’t match the color theme I got going on. Granted my new duct is gonna be black if I swap it out
Black is always a safe bet
With This All Metal Extruder, Users Can Have More Consumables To Choose From When Using A 3d Printer. At The Same Time, Larger Extrusion Wheels Increase The Grip Of Consumables, Tilted Tooth Profiles Increase Friction And Reduce Slipping, Larger Transmission Ratios Increase Torque And Increase Ex...
I also saw this one but I don’t think it’s the lite just the hgx
Im just gonna do the lite. We know it works and you’ve gotten sub 3 min benchy with it lmao
Facts dude I did 14:30 on the one last night and it looked like ass. My enderxy with the lgx lite does better at 12 min and the lgx is my limiting factor 😭
My biggest problem is my dllpdf plus gets here friday
Idk how people get great results with them but good for them. I’m just gonna take the loss on the vz hextrudort, keep the 8T for my Sherpa or as a spare or for another build and try this one out. I’ll probably need your config too for extruder
Gotta decide wtf I am gonna do
I feel that I need to recover too and find room for another build
I know 😭
I’ve spent too much. I do have 8 classifieds coming in.May do a pro build but probably another plus would be lit. Shit maybe both I have enough motors 🤣
I could do AWD 400mm plus, and AWD 256 pro build 🤔
Damn I need more space and money
I could sell one of my sv08s or my p1s but then that's less printers I have 😦
I'm doing idex on my plus
I want the world's fastest idex benchy
Well technically dual benchy
That’d be sick. I’ve thought about adding IDEX since it’s just another toolhead at this point
I may do it eventually. Use the hextrudort for that one ☠️. Jk I’ll buy another hgx 🤣
Maybe chc xl hotend if I grab it for my other builds and it works well or another Goliath
Oh also what do you have wrapped around your heatsinks? Electrical tape or do I need to buy something else?
@fast ingot could the HGX work with your xol? It's tall but there's a mount for it
https://www.printables.com/model/1013593-xol-hgx-lite
I have an lgx lite I could use too for the IDEX toolhead 🤔
Try it out on your current setup, pretty sure the lgx is similar in terms of gears at hgx right?
I honestly don't know what the difference is
I have no idea either. I may give it a shot. I ordered the hgx but I could go ahead and pull it from my enderxy.
I just need to build the Sherpa mini for the enderxy then
What all would we need to do to add idex/get it working?
Another toolhead thats about it
You just need to pass the belts through each toolhead
That would be the hardest part
Hmmm I wonder if I could make it work without needing new belts or use the spare strips I have
I bet I’d have to get new belts though if it’s longer
Oh dope that’s perfect then. I’d also need another carriage for my rail right?
Hmmm i may look into it once i get this one going and get my other projects done. I’ll circle back to this one 🤣. Then do another build 🤔
Also looks like I may need more idlers for the back belts
Technically they would be on the front
Just like ours
So we have 4 on our toolhead
We would only have two for IDEX
One belt would paas through the toolhead to the other one
IF that makes sense
I mean we could do the back, it would need xy joints tho
Ohhhhh okay. Yeah that makes sense so both of ours would go through the front instead of the back
With the current design yeah
Okay cool that doesn’t sound that bad then. I still have the printed vz toolhead
Crap I’d need another cpap
Or a single 5015 but that’s not as cool as dual cpap
Or if it’s printing at the same time I could split the cpap tubing and it just do 60% instead of 30% 🤔🤣
My motor won’t be here Friday but the hgx will be here tomorrow. I know you said it’s 10t only but I wonder if I can try it with the 8T
It only has mounting holes for the 10T
So it will not mesh well
Would be uber loose
My slow/poor ass finally finished my alu tube gantry (not bolted into xy yet)
Okay cool that makes sense
Also looks like this one I sent earlier is the 2.0 with 60N of force?!??
https://www.innocube3d.com/products/all-metal-extruder-hgx-lite-extruder-2-0-for
That looks really good! All metal is going to be so nice I bet
Yeah it just looks a little taller
Or maybe it’s the same
I wish I had same day delivery for it 😭. I should just start buying stock to keep and resell
Oh I didn’t realize it was in kg I thought it was N earlier. Ahhh yeah I think mine has the spiral gears now
Not a fan
Toolchanger for fdm 3d printers. Contribute to Bikin-Creative/Lineux-Toolchanger development by creating an account on GitHub.
This looks sick
How’d it turn out? Mine gets delivered today and my motor tomorrow. I have an LDO 10t in a drawer I can use or wait for the moons
I’m doing a pa test rq to rule that out then gonna try another benchy. Then swap nozzle, then swap cht back on and wait for my hgx to get delivered
Pa was perfect at .02. Swapping nozzle but I doubt that’ll be it
Broke part of the silicone sleeve for Goliath. Lol it’ll be fine but may order a replacement
I had to slightly cut mine to make the nichrome fit XD
Ayeee lol. I basically pulled off part of the upper lip that goes around the heartbreak. It’s honestly fine and doesn’t need to be replaced just a little annoyed lmao
New nozzle printing now. Same gcode as the others so we’ll see
Gonna try the new fan duct and see if that’s it
Getting these heatset inserts in were a pain 🤣
@hidden basin do you have the y offset for beacon for this duct?
Jk I broke it I’m gonna try the other duct I have still and just re-adjust it lmao
I don't have it on me
I think it's in the read me
Id not I'll grab it when I get home!
No worries! I checked the readme and it wasn’t there I’m gonna use the same mount previously I don’t think the mount is the issue
Also this btt filament runout sensor is being a pain
It’s either not enough cooling or this extruder at this point
F it I’m gonna try 50% cpap
I don’t think so just regular pressure advance in the printer.cfg
50% cpap. May be printing pla too hot gonna do a temp tower
It looks a little better but still not great for 14:30
what temp are you at?
also you have to make your printer more stable
you got a ton of ringing XD
220c and it is stable 😭. It’s sitting on a rubber mat on the floor. I should probably redo input shaper