#Full Metal Gantry
1 messages · Page 6 of 1
currently printing the last part for the fan shroud
still need to figure out endstops
very nice! 🔥
do the 6mm front idler towers use m3x30 or m3x20 stand offs, the step file shows 30 but the instructions say 20? i already bought 30 but im starting to have doubts.
ah gotcha
Can't you use sensorless?
Probably?
I havent looked into it
Is it hard to setup?
Have u done it?
not hard to set up with kalico
I'm only using Sensorless on my small printer though, the merc will have endstops
Endstops are easier to setup and not reliable
I do have a few printers with sensorless now, but that's mainly in printers designed without endstops. My red Merc is sensorless due to takeoff not having a x endstop.
Yeah, id add an endstop if possible, in general
what length standoff do you have between toolhead and fan duct?
Your duck almost look resin printed.
it is resin printed
This is why
i put together my gantry without any thread locker, was that a bad move? didn't have any on hand and got too excited to not put it together but im wondering if i should just order some and apply it before i finish assembling the whole printer
these switches work pretty bad for me for some reason
I'm using a similar switch, just have to watch my homing speed or it'll jam triggered.
what sort of speeds are we talking about here
i think i use 100-150
I had 2 questions about this. Does this give some extra X clearance, like the Mod Max, or is it the same as the normal Mercury one? The other question was in regards to getting in manufactured in the US. I did a quote with SendCutSend, but one of the parts was being quoted at $400-$500. Xometry seemed much more reasonable, but still more than the prices I've seen mentioned in the thread here. Any advice on this?
you have to select certain settings, make sure its the correct metal, etc.
Did you upload the files in inches?
this does not gain any travel
I just dragged the files onto the webpage, no idea what measurments I was using. I'll try it again. I did try selecting different grades of aluminum, they were all in the $400-500 range.
yeah probably was in inches which is default
need to set it to metric, total price should be around $90
Ok thanks, I'll try again and see.
Yeah that was it, for some reason it was using inches, even though the DXF variable is set to millimeters. I found out if you add multiple files at once, it doesn't give you the options to change the measurement, so I just have to add each file individually, then you will be prompted for the units.
DXF is a unitless file format, which is dumb. But it is what it is.
you can change the defalut units for your account, that it imports in
as I'm waiting for parts and to become available and ship and have been looking into getting a hotend working with my SO3 and I was wondering: has anyone looked into making an all metal toolhead?
theres no point as your hotend would be the limiting factor in that case
it might not even be worth fmg with SO3 😬
pretty sure they were asking about one for the mercury
vz bot has one that works for us, vzcnc for mercury
Sorry I'm confused: Limiting in what regard?
speed for most. speed is the reason most get fmg
vz zerog cnc works for merc. idk abt support regarding SO3 tho
The SO3 has a flow rate of of 30-40 mm3 with a cht at 6.5+kg extrusion force so I'm not too worried about speed
And I was fully prepared to design my own tool head and have SCS manufacturer it
Thanks for the rec,
looks like the top plate needs to be shortened and a front plate with holes for the so3 needs to be made and that should work!
My only consideration is do I want to make a toolboard mount to shorten the overall width of the package
the meltzone is tiny... have you actually tried this with a 0.4 nozzle?
honestly no but i can get back to you once the whole thing's put together
in my current system the motion system falls apart far before I can even dream of needing anywhere near those flowrates
This is a stupid question - I know its related to the toolhead mounting but what is the difference in the CAD files for top vs front mount?
Simple as your toolhead having a top mounted rail or front mounted
Voron sb is front mounted
Oh bruh, thanks Turtle!
Is there some saved cart or link to all the FMG 9mm parts needed on SendCutSend or do I need to load the DXFs and spec them manually on their site?
No saved carts
Copy, thx.
Planning on upgrading to the full metal gantry soon, but I have the original run of the rear metal stepper towers, are those able to be reused? And if so, any considerations needed in what I order?
just need to replace the printed inserts
how important with the high tension setup is it to have the belts come out at a perfect 90 degrees to the y rails?
I'm working through making making a custom SCS-able all metal toolhead for my upcoming all metal gantry build and in my speed to get the extruder as close to the rail as possible neglected to consider where the belts were in relation to the front plate
note: this is still very much a work in progress
For compact and light you might want to have the tool opposite side of the belts and maybe put anything but cooling above the rail. I dunno if it's feasible, but that would compact masses
I know
Bruh couldn’t even take they own photos
if i could express my anger at this, i would be banned
The dumb thing is they just made the bottom part a 6mm plate so the pins won't work properly either....
Why is funssor so dense.
If they copied the wrong plate, then the dual shear bearings wont work either XD
how do you know>
whos bought it?
Nobody is just looked at the listing on ali lol
wow that is so shit
So that means the pictures are wrong too...... so they used incorrect and stolen images XD
They are using 5mm pin with internal thread, like a double t pin without the middle flange.
dangggg...
lets leave some crappy reviews there
Ive thought about leaving warning reviews on all zerog clones but dont know if that would be morally ok
Best to just leave the warnings here, if we had a message that people saw when the first came here that explains the situation and that there is no support here.
Ive suggested that to dutch, hes not in support of it tbh
Then we just let people know we can’t help them if they have issues and ask with those parts.
Durch is against manhunts
Which is good imo
So yeah
Warn the people
But don't overdo it
yeah. I see his moral pov but I feel like just posting: these companies are not supported because they make illegal clones will help a lot of people
It is already in the announcements
ik, but its not specific, and is old. No one will notice it
I have a better idea
Instead of: this bad
How about:
These things are official, everything else isn't
In the rules
@torpid summit
list of vendors?
add "everything else isn't, clones may have bad results"
Anything unofficial may have unwanted results
Well there will be an official blacklist soon
Any vendor not on that list may yield undesirable results
Yea, wording is important in my opinion. Don’t want the community to come off as aggressive. Most people that buy it don’t understand so there is no point going off at someone that gets them and then has a bad experience, just makes them not want to be in the community.
really? where will it be posted
Yeah
It's important not to antagonize people
I always like that Dutch and Turtle try to put us, the community, 1st and as such by not alienating new people who have already been burned by a bad purchase.
I really like that too. You can tell just from talking to him for like 10m that hes very morally aligned, he cares about all of us, and wants the best for the people he interacts with
I'm way late to this but I am also working on the exact same thing. As far as I know it is crucial to keep the belt plane parallel to the gantry to avoid what I would call "cosine error" in the belt path throughout the X travel. I am working on putting the SO3 toolboard on the back face and routing CPAP cooling around the back. I also have a draft one piece billet bracket and drawing to go along with it. Hopefully won't cost an arm and a leg put I guess printing it is always an option (maybe Nylon or PPS idk). Did you get anywhere on this concept?
I wouldnt use the eva 2.4 clips
Yea somebody did mention that to me a couple months ago, haven't got around to updating to the better design.
I restricted myself to sheet metal components and I'm not nearly as far along as you are but I have some screenshots in the toolheads channel
you can make belt clips, ducts, etc. out of plastic tbh
my plan is to have just the fan ducts in plastic if I can help it
SLM printed would cost a lot
Yup I see that now. Looks pretty good. I'm a big fan of shiny metal things but if billet is too expensive I might steal your idea.
SLM is cheap if you design it for SLM
if youre going eva style, you shoulld maybe adapt eva 2.4 hemera mount, or make a special front for e34m1
if it ends up working out I think I'll set up a github page
That looks very chunky as it is though
mine?
Lonzo's
ah
I also do not personally see the point of metal toolheads for either of those extruder setups, but thats just me
I think those do not belong on corexy printers
yeah the shape seems to be more targetted towards bed slingers
I think if the hotend was goliath length, it would be worth it
btw since you have more experience getting laser cut parts made: would you be down to glance at my design at some point to see where I can afford to shed some weight, once I get to that point?
make sure you do forces analysis too
I just make things look good and send it
really?
I wasn't able to find a standard toolhead that would work and since my printer is down laser cup parts looked like the easy option
I dont even do FEA on stuff, other than cantilever z stuff because of the $$$ it takes to buy those parts
zero fea on the metal gantry, I did 3d print the first stepper mount design to verify it would at least work in concept.
xjoints were just make it look good, and leave enough to look good
I wonder how nice cf xy joints would do
not sure how I can do that with my free tier of fusion 360
I only just started to figure out FEA for cantilever, after I built it to see if it was feasable on the 5 plus 🤣
use ondsel or freecad
unless you know what you are doing with FEA, the results do not mean anything
I am able to run tests for what I built, and what I plan to build next. Using what works as a baseline
I want to learn more about it. atm, I understand CFD decently, but will have to learn FEA for my slinger bed
didn't onset get shut down in october of last year?
wait yeah youre right, Im thinking of some other software but forgot the nam,e
Simscale! thats what it was. I dont know how I got ondsel
my latest z sim with gravity and 1kg on the bed
using the rails in the sim, actually improved the results.
Yea I did consider doing something modular to link into another project but I figured that the irregular form factor of the Orbiter V3 would make it less relevant and awkward to adapt to a system meant for the V2.5. I know a lot of people wouldn't want to go this route because they won't see the cost/benefit. Personally I think that it makes sense to spend on a nice tool head since it is arguably the most important part of the motion system and is actually subjected to inertial forces regularly. Considering we are already spending extra on the metal gantry components I think a metal toolhead is a logical next step. I deal with plastics quite a lot in my day job and the major concern isn't really its outright strength but more its resistance to fatigue, creep, vibration etc. in practical use cases. FEA for additive is also tricky because the material you are trying to simulate is non-isotropic and I would rather deal with a known quantity. FWIW solidworks says my bracket is around 60 grams for 6061.
If you want better cost to benefit, I wouldnt do so3
Yea the goal for my build is kind of the opposite of cost/benefit because I am going for outright material capability. I'm even going for the Revo version which makes that even worse, mainly because I want to go for exotic filament at high temperatures. I just wouldn't' trust plain ABS to hold up in those conditions long term.
then you should get goliath
I def want to make my build high end at some point and handle 100c chamber, and Im likely going to go goliath for that reason
all metal gantry/toolhead
high temp water cooled motors, etc.
I was under the impression that it was targeted more for extreme speed, even though it is packing an enormous heater. There's a good thermofluid analysis somewhere on the oribiter site that shows why you really don't need big heating power for high temperatures. The stock E5 could probably get well above 300 under it's own power if it wouldn't destroy itself in the process. I guess I'll have to research it a bit. The thing that worries me just looking at it for air cooling is the size of the heatsink. Also seems on par with SO3 Revo $wise in Canada at least.
goliath is also a popular choice for hight temp printing (without the sock ofc)|
my biggest problem with the so3 is the form factor, whch makes it cumbersome to mount on corexy
I've seen a lot of people make that same comment but I don't really see it that way. I know the meta has moved to top mount extruder. But as is, it's quite compact and could even mount in a similar fashion if used with a front mount rail. I think the only hurdle practically speaking is the fact that there isn't much support for it. I don't see the design and manufacturing as a big problem but who knows, maybe my arrogance will come back and bite me lol.
If you want to use so3, you shouldnt use top rail
top rail also isnt meta, and theres basically no such thing as meta in 3d printing as most of us are crazy engineers trying new things all over
Yea maybe meta is the wrong word, I do see it a lot though (VZbot, ratright, EVA 2.4, Proforge). I agree with front mount being better but I want to use the front and back of the carriage block to mount things and I think top mount lends itself that with CoG in mind
archetype, tajkeoff, a4t, etc. use front mount
One thing I noticed as well is the front mount rail systems, like the stealth burner for example, have the extruder kind of sitting above the carriage block. The only drawback being a longer filament path from extruder to nozzle and I think you need to put a PTFE tube as your filament path in some designs. One day we'll converge on the ultimate no-compromises package 🙂
stealthburner is an abominable design imo
damn don't hold back 😂
I would know. Im trying to build a high performance printer with it. I cant give up that look though
the extruder is held on by two loose screws
the ducts are- basically useless unless its for low speed abs
I'm surprised to hear that. It seems pretty ubiquitous in voron land and it has massive manufacture support. I've even seen people put it on non-voron printers. Maybe it just fills that speed benchy need, I always hear voron builders talking about trying to up the speed over all else.
It's not a toolhead for speed benchies.
It has good wire management and looks good. But those qualities also make it bulky and a bit heavy. And really limit it's part cooling.
But for normal print speeds and abs it's plenty
nooooo it does not. its bulky, it doesnt have enough cooling, it doesnt support high flow hotends, and it has terrible resonances
ignore the arrow. that second hump is caused ALL by the extruder
LOL Fusion says mine is currently sitting at 160g (I have done no weight reduction so far)
That doesn't sound bad, the overall package with the toolboard will probably be fairly light and I'm not sure my 60g part will be stiff enough. At the moment I have thicker walls but a more skeletonized frame.
dont skeletonize plastic too much
youll suffer resonances
lighter < stiffer
Mine is meant for machined aluminum currently but yea
if its metal, its probs fine
@opal spindle If you can beat this you'll be better than abominable
I mean..... if I print it out of plastic...
Wait I misread that as 43.3
433 is Wild to me
I NEED to know:
How did they manage that?
lots of material
sb is not designed to be lightweight, its designed to be easily serviceable and good looking
That's also including the extruder, hotend, fans, and can board.
that is chunky
My napkin math for this concept so far is: SO3 weighs 175g fully kitted, the tool board i'm guessing is another 50g, my bracket should be around 65g. Then add another 50g for misc stuff like the umbilical, bolts, beacon scanner, cpap duct etc. Should bring it to around 340g. Hopefully that package will give me a super short filament path, a durable toolhead and high temp capability. Still just a concept at this stage tho
On a slight tangent: at what point does one cross the line between an intermediate and advanced printer builder?
@shut pewter I noticed that your 6mm merch has the lightweight x gantry, how's that holding up?
Seems good still, will remove it eventually though to switch to front mount. I don't chase weight anymore.
Is there a benefit to front mount vs top mount?
My understanding is (and im no expert) that with front mount you can get the toolhead com between the belts and on the carriage which helps with input shaping results.
It's also a bit of lever arms too tbh.
personally i havent felt any difference between the two, at least at realistic printing speeds and conditions, but im sure theres some differences
Anyone get their FMG parts powder coated?
Sorry if this has been asked before but is there an advantage to using the two F695 bearings over just buying solid idler pulleys?
are these suppose to be printed, in the cad these spacers show 9.85 or maybe im mistaken on what the BOM is calling these spacers out for
the spacers you mention are for the stepper towers bottom printed piece. this one is to space the idler
could you show me where possibly? cause in the cad it doesnt have 10mm length spacers on the stepper towers
sure. one sec
this as in stepper tower?
Thank you!
anyone got clips for 9mm gt2 belts? mine keep slipping on the vztool head
9mm is somewhere in there
found it thanks!
@frail pilot here's the thread
Oh ty
lol
I am right now shopping around for some parts and will likely do a fmg setup. Has anyone done 7075 aluminum for front idlers and stepper towers and then grade 5 titanium for x? If there are no cons in doing this then I might go ahead and get the parts made.
Ti is hevier than Aluminum, so no
Oh noted. Thought it was the other way around but that makes sense. Thanks for the response!
it has a better strength to weight ratio
Are there any adverse affects if I were to do titanium on stepper towers and idlers instead? Aside from cost.
Different thermal expansion
Shouldn't matter there tho
it doesnt. turtle didnt do any FEM tests on them
@frail pilot the aluminum kinda helps act as a heat sink to cool the steppers. The top plate on mine gets warm but I have the steppers watercooled. On my other machine they get nice a warm and that does not have watercooling.
If you used TI you'll end up insulating the stepper.
We run printed stepper towers too so the heat exchange of the aluminum plate I guess does not matter too much, but something to consider.
Oh that is a really good point. I have not considered that. I probably will settle for aluminum since it's working well for everyone haha.
Thank you for your input!
Has anyone been able to find the larger m5 spacers in colours other than red/black/silver? Trying to find them in a light blue and orange
Nope
Found some threaded hex ones i might just drill out
do we need to adjust the dxfs for 5mm shafts vs. 8mm shafts (or long shafts vs. short shafts)?
if you use a bearing other than an F695RS sized one, yes
That's all I did
helps if you have access to a lathe
this is crazy, the piece are hopefully correct (but I doubt it), but their price is absurd. I pay slightly more as a private to make a custom order by xometry for 3 sets… plus the ip theft (maybe they tried to give credit and decided they could somehow spell the username as turtle crawler, or maybe they thought that was the code name for the project 🤔)
I'm sure they know what they were doing. Seems an odd product to offer given it's pretty niche product and those who even know to look for it would have come from here... Weird
Yes, masters in the art of theft and copyright infringement XD
Would you mind showing how you enclosed your printer?
Nebula frame and panels?
no, actually a majority buy it then come here
my theory is that it goes like this:
person watches video about mercury one.1, thinks its an interesting idea.
dismisses the idea for a while
sees listing on Aliexpress and remembers conversion, decides to buy it
comes here, to find out theyve been scammed
IMO, if we had warnings on the website and discord highlighting SPECIFIC clone manufacturers (yes ik dutch made an announcement a year ago, but no new users are going to scroll up and see that), then:
A. more people would have more awareness
B. higher likelyhood that ppl building merc on streams or videos would clarify that, but ZeroGs exposure was mostly limited to the ender-5 conversion and is in the past
Fair points well delivered. Would be nice to see some YouTubers doing a full Merc build including Hydra and Nebula. Everything seems to be a Voron tbh
There are
Very few that I see. Feels a shame given the project and the community
Ive been tempted, but im too ugly for camera
no such thing. dont know till you try 👀
Maybe just more willing to spend for finer components on your existing machines?
I'd love to video or stream my rebuild of Thing 1 but I have no space to record anything of value. 😭
Im kinda starting at level 9/10. Not much left to stream for upgrades 
do we use the pulley allignment tool from the merc files for the FMG just curious how i set the pulley on the 55mm stepper shaft
i only have 6mm ones on hand
but still use the old tool?
also should i be routing belts before i fully assemble the stepper towers i have them together but looks like it will be very hard with it all together
Assembly them first
They are self feeding
The insert is designed to route the belts for you
oh okay tyty
Is their suppose to be different size holes for the dowel pins on the stepper plates I have one plate the center plate that the 5mm dowel pins holes can’t be reamed they are to small did I mess up somewhere? Or did send cut send miss the mark?
Bottoms are smaller to prevent drop through
The docs cover that
Or I think they do
CAD shows it
Shittt
They sent me 3 bottom plates and 3 top center plates. I have three plates with holes to small to ream, I drilled one and then reamed it. Gonna message them and see if they can send me the right plates
They are good about stuff like that
I noticed in the M1 MG 5 Plus 9mm Top Mount Imperial cad, the stepper towers have a 30mm dowel pin for the bearing stacks, but the BOM calls for 35/36, 40, and 45mm dowel pins, what should be used here?
https://injured.lol/eqqtspkz.png
(These are both named Pin 5x30, and measure up to 5x30)
@shut pewter ^
Upon gaining a braincell and measuring the other stepper tower it shows 45, so just one of them is off
45 is used on the steppers
Yeah thanks, gained a braincell and increase the sample size by one tower
35/36 on the xjoints
Ahh, thank you
36 is better, but 35 works
Yeah I found some 36
so for 55x8 shafts how many 698-RS and F608-2RS do i need?
You only need 2 F608s for 8mm shaft motors
Non flange ones are for the shorter shafts, like the kraken motors
do I still need to pull the hubs off of my fabreeko 9mm pulleys? they seem to spin fine as they are
as far as I can tell removing the hub doesn't change the length?
Only need to do that for live idler with 9mm belts
yup I bought these and since they they spin freely on the shaftI assume I can yank the set screws and I'm good to go? edit:fixed link
2MGT toothed pulleys & idlers by Honeybadger Black Pulleys & idlers available in multiple tooth counts and belt sizes. These are now revised and improved in Generation 2 offering better grip and tooth engagement. Specs: 9mm 20T Motor pulley 20mm tall 15mm wide (top and bottom) 11mm belt area 5mm bore 9mm 16T
welp you're right I mixed that up
Sooooo I figured out this projects version of 10 mandatory Trips to Home Depot per project,
4 reorders from SCS
@void marsh here
@shut pewter lots of good info here. im excited for my kit. after reading this and looking at CAD and the readme it make a lot more sense
I'm late to the convo, but I'm seriously considering ordering a set powder coated from DLLPDF that are powder coated. You'd have to special order them through their discord.
Did you get a price from them?
Not yet but when I do, I’ll let you know.
I've been waiting weeks to get rough pricing on aluminum panels
They gave me a rough idea of 100/panel when i was ordering a frame but that was a while ago idk if it's changed to something more concrete
@shut pewter - I had a shower thought this morning and wondered what you thought of this ....... So Titanium is more rigid as the temperatures rise in the chambers but Aluminum is lighter. What if we were to use Titanium parts for the stationary parts like the motor mounts and Idler Towers but then used Aluminum for the X-Joints to lighten the load (as it were) on the motors during movement? This way, as long as your rig is very square when you build and you use 9mm belts, you shouldn't have too much issue with belt stretching and alignment warping.
*I gotta find some titanium T-nuts ..... * 🤔
I doubt that it will improve much. The 2020 extrusion is the weak point.
so you're saying that the next nebula frame will be carbon fiber wrapped titanium square tube?
Most carbon epoxy has issues with high temps
Surely even upping to 2040 would see rigidity gains
Some have used 2040
For the gantry?!
This has @rough stream written all over it....
It might have been me... at least for Y. 😅
titanium is also notch sensitive, so if a crack ever forms, the vibration will propagate it. while i love titanium, id say aluminum does the job
Im a bit confused. What parts do I need to order for double shear with 8x55mm steppers? Does 9mm make any sense on an 180 cubed small merc?
I wouldnt. Usually causes more issues than helps
6mm motion systems tend to produce better quality prints
9mm is only really needed if youre hucking around a ton of weight and flex is an issue
You need 2 F608 bearings and the stepper tower prints that have f608 in their name iirc
Pros and cons for going steel except for the xy joints?
Why except the xjoints?
Probably to keep weight down on moving parts
I've only tested aluminum, anything else your testing on your own
Steel is prone to rusting though
Correct guess
I want to powder cost any metal part except for screws and rails, also not rusting steel is roughly the same price
Ive been tempted to try just the bottom plate in a stronger material for the motor mounts, then keep the rest alum
Either Titanium or steel, to keep any tension flex from forming
But havent had an issue to need it yet
Anyone putting together a group buy on the metal gantry parts currently?
I was tempted to be extra and try Titanium lol
But my senses got the better of me, just because you can, doesn’t mean you should
I am about to buy, the question is, does a buyer from Germany/Europe help you?
I would say, it needs to fit a purpose. Either it needs to look cool, make mechanical/structural sense or needs to be prepared for hight temperatures.
I am not sure steel linear rails steel screws, aluminum extrusions and titanium plates make too much sense. You have 3 expansion values and without treatment possible galvanic corrosion.
Put yes titanium would be cool. Even better if we can get rails and extrusions too 😎
Not sure if it would, I would think any volume discount we might get... probably not much if any on just a couple sets... would be negated by additional shipping costs. Thank you though!
Well, I have one set for $90-ish and two for $130. It scales down pretty fast. The problem is tariffs to the USA. I can not even use any shipper, most stopped to ship to USA at all.
Oh wow, maybe let me see what i can figure out
If you’re in the US, SCS can do them for pretty cheap if you just countersink them yourself (not even sure if they do offer countersinking ngl)
Thanks, I'll check it out
I'll do a few more kits soonish while I still have spacers
But once I'm out of spacers, I'm not sure what to do since they have become harder to source now
https://github.com/0xGoldstar/ZeroG/tree/main/Mods/FullMetalGantry
In terms of licensing and credit stuff, is this sufficient or is there more I should add?
So you tapped the plates and put hex nuts?
I believe his work with hex no??
Think it’s just printed parts to fit hex standoffs? Not sure
I just modified the printed parts to fit hex standoffs.
Nothing else changed
No. Turtle's fits like 5.5mm iirc. Mine are 6mm
TBH, you probably want to change those to passthrough standoffs tho instead of threaded, then add longer screws and T-nuts in the back for 2 more mounting points
Most go that route anyway
Yea I am thinking about doing that
I could either drill those standoffs or just get new ones lol
Its probably fine for normal users, but once you hit higher tensions or GT3 belts, it will become needed eventually
Yea. I'm still a "normal" user but I suspect that will change in the near future.
After about 200hz is when things get interesting
You want as much anchoring force as possible to keep your motor towers from bending up
A few people have experienced it
Again usually GT3 or 9mm
Currently I can't go very high with hz due to having top mount with 9mm. There aren't really any real toolhead projects that support top mount + 9mm. I probably will add the last two screws in the back when I switch things to front mount.
9mm? yeah you want it XD
Yea
Pretty sure recommended tension for GT2 9mm is around 250-300hz
Yup, I've seen that as well. Kind of wild
Not 100% sure if this project here can sustain that https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1292801318326501399
This is why I want to switch to front mount due to better support out there.
As far as I know there aren't any cnc top mounted toolheads that support 9mm. If there are then I would love that.
Higher tensions and bigger belts kind need metal motion all around
Yup
Oh interesting
Still kind of a flimsy toolhead overall though, isn’t it?
Stronger than plastic
Better than plastic yeah
By a mile
I'll have to look into it. Are there any completed projects out there that I can follow for future references?
Gold I’ll send you my vz lol
Was this the one where you made me modify some parts lol
Don’t think so, could be
Oh I see what you did
Either way, I’ve got the full thing, just replace the flimsy belt posts with knurled standoffs
What would you be asking for that
Shipping probably
Those titanium screws look really nice
I’m doing front mount breakneck, have no use for a top mount
Lmk details and whatever and I can check what shipping is
Or wait
Aren't you flying in a couple months?
Bunch of places, none near you
We can go to dms with this to not clog up the fmg thread tbf
Sure
yeah I classify USA as near you
I wish I had your sense of responsibility... 😅
@frail pilot yeah for 9mm belts you want to modify the printed insert for another m5 spacers anyways, though that requires nebula or longer y extrusions for the rest mounting point.
Oh yea I see what you did. I suppose I'll do that.
Did you also mount the last screw?
That's still just normal
I made that one also a passthrough screw on mine
Doesnt hurt
I wanted the 5 point mount for speed run rigidity
I just kept all mine M3 tho, so not as strong, but more holding area
Dont know if that helps it if at all but doesnt hurt XD
Those are gorgeous!!! Wow. I’m over here still waiting for my 400x400 bed lol. Ordered it 6+months ago now.
But, good news is I’m working on getting our berserker rails MGN12-H in 450, and 500 respectively.
Im wanting to go 9mm belts on my Nebula. Any tips or suggestions on that?
Happened to get a Takeoff and CHUBE just for the occasion. Heh heh.
I ended up ordering through SCS for a reasonable price.
Can you tell me the price, to have a benchmark?
130 usd for 2 sets with x for top and front mount
No countersink I will have to do that myself
Thx. The countersinking I plan to do myself too
If you do go 9mm, I suggest front mount xjoints. Unless you are going 9mm E34M1, there seem to be more 9mm options for front mounted toolheads that work on the Merc than top mount.
I meant to ask if you pushed these changes yet to the plates. I need to go check.
I need to work on updating the 6mm files still, wanted to get my cantilever z project out there before spending time on that.
Just posted those files, so I can go back to metal gantry to wrap that up.
That laser engraving looks neat!
thanks its my logo 🙂 im going for my business theme with this nebula, my company colors are red, black, white and grey so it works out great on this build 🙂
We know
Will do!
9mm FMG goodness 😍 😍
What type of results are folks getting? I’m eyeing this for my pro nebula and figured 6mm belts would be more than enough with the smaller size.
I didn't get great results from 9mm, probably built something wrong or tolarences from my prints or the cutter
if you can't get a good IS graph on 6mm belts, moving to 9 is a fool's errand. Wider belts are for pushing performance, but even narrow belts will reveal mechanical issues.
But this one goes up to nine
I understand the appeal
Ya. I'm waiting for the 25mm v-belt mod. 🤔
Isn't linear drive cross gantry with halo support frame the next Evolution?
Hi guys what print settings are used
Reference the ZeroG settings?
I'm sure this has been asked a lot i apologise, my search function isnt working
Yep thought so!
Thanks :D
I did an oopsie for one of the x joint pieces, it imported upside down and failed mid print
ah wells
thank god for exclude object
I think I found an error in the BOM
9mm kit needs 24 f695
That sucks 😭😭 I gotta order them and wait now
Where do the other 8 come from?
You need 8 for the drives
4 for the xy joints and 4 for the tensioners
The other 8 you probably think of are only 695
No f
4 on the front towers
6 per stepper tower, and 4 per X joint
Yeah
Just thought I'd share it here and have the BOM updated for others, wouldn't usually be an issue but I'm building a fresh nebula from scratch
Just got my linear rails in, so I'm going to clean and install them after some assignment work
Text translated: DIY Self sourced full Metal Gantry motion system
I have been thinking about how do metal Xjoints to go along with the metal stepper mounts I designed for awhile, as well as front towers. Keeping with the design concept of laser cut plates with off the shelf spacers, I had to lower the X gantry and belt path. I also decided to support both top mount tool heads with standard Zerog belt paths, as well as front mount style tool heads. Both require different Xjoint plates.
Full step assemblies have been added for all of the standard configurations, including the belt paths for both the 5 Pro and 5 Plus. This will allow you to drop them into the Mercury one.1 Cad assembly with minimal work.
I have been running the 9mm belts on my red merc for awhile now, and have installed to verify fitment of the 6mm parts on my other mercury, but have not had time to print with the 6mm parts yet.
The 6mm Xjoints are 5 grams lighter than the printed xjoints, per side.
https://github.com/TurtleCrawler/Mercury-One.1---Full-Metal-Gantry
[Jump to original message](#1287514029354520710 message "Hovertext")
Translated from: English
**Translated to:** English
**Translated text:** DIY Self sourced full Metal Gantry motion system
I have been thinking about how do metal Xjoints to go along with the metal stepper mounts I designed for awhile, as well as front towers. Keeping with the design concept of laser cut plates with off the shelf spacers, I had to lower the X gantry and belt path. I also decided to support both top mount tool heads with standard Zerog belt paths, as well as front mount style tool heads. Both require different Xjoint plates.
Full step assemblies have been added for all of the standard configurations, including the belt paths for both the 5 Pro and 5 Plus. This will allow you to drop them into the Mercury one.1 Cad assembly with minimal work.
I have been running the 9mm belts on my red merc for awhile now, and have installed to verify fitment of the 6mm parts on my other mercury, but have not had time to print with the 6mm parts yet.
The 6mm Xjoints are 5 grams lighter than the printed xjoints, per side.
https://github.com/TurtleCrawler/Mercury-One.1---Full-Metal-Gantry
what kind of bot calls translation from English to English
it mustve been a mistake
I'm a little bit at a loss for my build. For the right stepper tower the pulley is not aligned with the flange stack (hopefully visible on the photo, it is approx. 3-4mm). The pulley is already at the lower end of the stepper shaft (42STH48 2804AC-R 48 with 2.4 shaft, 6mm belt, F695 bearings). I have looked now for hours in the drawing, measured all parts and so on. So what did I oversee?
A 2nd topic is that I have a 1 - 1.5mm play on the X-Joint pulleyes. Is this wanted or also a mistake on my side?
that could very well be the fact it is funossor parts
You are right it is funssor and I'm not really happy with it. Howerver, I have it now and need to live with it 😉 The top plate is exactly 3mm and the bottom exactly 6mm (so 2x3mm). The position of the pulley is defined by the shaft. Since the stepper is plane on top this cannot be the problem. The position of the bearing is defined by the printing and the height of the bottom plate, which is from my measurement also okay.
So, where do I loose 3-4mm? I must oversee something.
For the play you just need some washers
Flip the pulley, screw part goes up
Nooo, not another funssor victim
I had this idea too, it is not convenient because you need to exactly align it before assemble the top plate with the top printed part (after you have no access to the screws from the pulley), but it will work. However, I want to understand why.
Hmmm I have read across here and must have overseen people complaining to it.
There have been quite a few cases
Their parts are not ZeroG parts XD
Okay and now hopefully documented here for all others 😉 The quality is from my understanding (I'm not a pro) not bad. Some parts are missing, one countersink forgotten and the service is b******t.
Im pretty sure i managed to adjust my pulley on the assembled stepper tower through the hole in the front of the printed part
Thx, I will give it a try when I'm back from work in the evening.
Did you print the metric or standard parts?
And you should have access to the grub screws on the pulley after installation
In my case I do
As far as I remember, I taken all files with metric. Will doublecheck this evening, I'm on the way to work.
And that picture you posted is of the left stepper tower right?
If it is in pretty sure that part is 180 degrees the wrong way if I’m seeing that correctly
Nvm that’s the right side
Shortly you shocked me, it is before my first coffee 🤣
Thanks for all who point me into the right direction. I have spent some more shims for left & right X-Joint. Then I have changed the pulley for the right stepper "upside down" (I need to push it to the top, which can only be done in disassemble version) and now it looks good. Afterwards I measured the height of all pulleys and bearings to be sure they are on the same height and re-belt.
However, still curious why to change the right pulley 😉
I have also found now the complaints about funssor and must be sorry to buy such stuff and annoyed you with it. Next time I give funssor a wide berth.
The pulley height gets set with it assembled and installed
That's why it has the window cutout
Yes I know but for whatever reason that does not work in my setup 🙁
Exactly, I have a 2.4 shaft, 6mm belts and metric version.
Is there anyone here who could machine/cut the parts for the fmg? I would pay ofc but I’m not certain where I could go near me to get that done
Where are you located?
Sendcutsend can cut them
I’ll check them out thanks!
SCS is the goat for some things, I've not had an issue and the competitive robot sport in north america would probably be dead without them lol
Yea wish we had them here, I’m having a friend mill my stuff
2 things, first hold off on ordering until I get the update posted.
Second I will be selling one more batch of kits later this year through DMs in a waiting list. But that's probably a 2 month wait because I'm just slow. Also often juggling to make projects, so processing them takes me awhile. But they are fully finished and include all the hardware other than bearings and pulleys/idlers
@shut pewter - what sort of changes are going to be in your update?
New bearing spec, afaik just the motor towers changing?
Yeah that's the main thing, and adding metal Gantry spacer files for 9mm.
ohhh thats nice
Could I be put on the list for one of those kits? I probably wasn’t going to order it for a while anyways, I’m a broke 17 y/o college student lol can’t afford it atm
Send me a DM, I'll get back to you after work
Just did, thanks
I'm just finishing up my lunch break, then back to work
Taco bell
Neat lol
Hi guys! Having a few issues currently
One is a question for @shut pewter
These grub screws are hitting the belt, I'm using Mellow GT2 pulleys, is this just a case of use smaller grubs?
Also my other issue is more external-ish but the 9mm EVA 3 has two problems, the belts seem to sit too high on the body
Well, first of all you are going to have serious problems with that belt
Its not flat at all
You are going to eat it up so fast
You also should probably order shorter grub screws if theyre poking out
Either order shorter set screws or file/grind them down
Getting motivated to get my nebula frame finished, I have local supplies gates belt options now I am taking so long. 9mm fmg on a plus size printer, gt2 closed loop belts or gt3 open loop belts?
That's the main issue.. I don't know why
I'm using the 9mm Eva mod, is there another people are using?
I've only used front mount toolheads with 9mm belts
The belts are mounting too high on the EVA front module
At4, takeoff
I have never looked into the Eva 3 CAD for the merc
I've been using EVA 3 from Jon for the last 3 years almost on my basic merc
That's why I wanns stick with it, it's worked really well for me but it seems like the belt grooves are positioned incorrectly, can either adjust the spacing of the gantry itself and shit it downwards or redesign the belt mount
Also what frequency are you setting your belts at? I'm using the double shear support
Check the pins
There is a calculator
Looking at the screenshot of the CAD for the 9mm eva3 mod, might not be space to move to the belts down probably without more changes
Damn...
So according to that calculator, if measuring at 150mm between front tower and idler pin like standard Merc docs state
200hz or so, that's crazy haha
That looks better
Very happy now lol
The link to the file is in the EVA 3 thread
If anyone will find use in it
Thats awsome. I hope it gets uploaded to github as well. Thanks for fixing that, Jayden.
It's okay! Let the 9mm belt live on :D
just a quick question regarding the motor mounts. I have F608 bearings and have printed off the parts. Do i snap out the bit where the bearing sits on the bottom part of the printed part?
disregard, figured it out
but apparently im going to need to take out some of the champher on the stepper mounts, as they dont suit NSK f608zz. Has any one else experienced that?
There’s a chamfer on the slot, that doesn’t allow the bearing to sit in nicely
it's for the flange I don't understand what you don't understand
Bearing goes into the metal plates under the printed insert
And you have to use a flange bearing
ahhh i get it, facing down, gotcha. sorry I was like am i just a dumb ass or unable to think about it logically
thanks turtle
Would this parts group buy be for Europe or USA or both? I'm in, if western USA is doable.
Don't think it's a parts group buy, it's turtle machining them and selling full hardware kits including hardware for them afaik
^ And turtle is in the US
Yeah I just order the plates from SendCutSend and finish them, provide the hardware
I've just been juggling projects, trying to sort it how many kits I can actually do with the hardware I have left
And then new 9mm stepper towers ;)
Oh OK, that sounds good. I'm in if there's enough. 👍
Yeah just send me a DM and I'll add you to the list
wait whats this list for
What channel are you in? Its for that, silly.
yeah but can i get this before its actually updated lol
or will he drop update before he ships these out
Probably not. If you want it sooner you need to order it yourself. If Turtle is busy, I would give him 6-12 months. 😄
Lol i can self source, i was just wondering if this was gonna earlier on the timeline
I just keep putting off uploading the files now because you pointed out that printed insert height issue which I some how missed, and I need to fix on this update and redo all the 6mm exports again lol
and to many projects
thanks for pointing that out by the way, no idea how I missed that
Your good i fully understand, we all have our lives outside this stuff. im just grateful to be able to use the stuff you design
I do plan to push the update before I send out more sets
I need to make sure the correct files are out there first
Oo damn I missed this
Wait so is there going to be a big change to the 9mm setup? I just finished it 😭
Nothing big, just the stepper plate bearing setup on all l6 and 9mm
Ah i see
Is it normal for a fresh belt to shed during initial use?
I dont see rubbing or grinding anywhere
If a bearing stack is sitting to high or low compared to the rest for that path it can create more issues
Is it a glass fiber belt or the... whatever it is pdm or something like that
Only printed parts or also metal parts 🤔
Smaller bearing cutout in the metal stepper plates
its a gates GT2 from mellow? or trianglelab i cant remember
EDPM belts
how can I differentiate the 2 different stepper mount plates?
If I remember correctly, the plates that go on the top and middle have a slightly larger hole where the dowel pins sit. Somebody correct me if I’m wrong though
Correct
The bottom plate has smaller holes to prevent pin drop
If I have send cut send tumble the plates to remove the burs, will it cause any fitment issues?
typically that process only knocks off half a thou, probably less to internal holes/features
do we have any feedback on the funssor parts? its a really cheap option since they mass produce, but know the tolerances might be loose. anyone using them with success?
Funssor is violating the zerog license, and just grab STL's without considering fitment or the shrinkage that's built into those STL's in the case of zerog parts, they should be avoided
tl;dr: Do not buy, do not use funssor parts. Doing so will net you no support, no friends, and poor results.
We will shun you XD
I'm getting lost in the sauce with ordering the extra shims. M5x0.3 Shim,M5x0.5 Shim,M5x1 Shim can someone help me out . I can find almost all the parts on amazon but the shims im not sure.
Washers on amazon come in thicknesses, I just buy 5mm washers. Sometimes if I want to swing for same day or whatever I will get 3/16" instead (same size basically) if those are available and 5mm are not.
You can absolutely get 5mmx0.5mm washers etc there.
I find M5x10x.05
You sure about .05? If you mean 0.5 then bam you got your half-mm spacers
Like, I am not doing anything special with searching, are you not in the US?
I just searched "m5 washer 0.3" and "m5 washer 0.5" and oodles of results here.
I searched using shim and crap I need to wear my reading glasses now lol. I swear I saw .05 lol. Thank you.
It was my bad eyes that let me down. I was looking for .05 shims lol.
Hey guys something I've figured
Make sure that your stepper towers arent touching the frame
I had one touching
This is a before of my Y axis
After
Not perfect but MUCH better
But they're mounted to the frame, maybe im misunderstanding
Ohh very nice. Will be adding to my list of things
@shut pewter , i reached out, but not sure if you received notification. id be down to either buy plates and hardware, or even just the hardware if you have them packaged. if theres a list, id like to be on it 🙂
Hardware changes with the desired setup (6mm, 9mm, double shear, kind of stepper motors). You need to know what you need.
Yea it just seems like buying seperate will net you with alot of left over. I'm Goin 9mm double sheer. I can handle bearings, and gears, and printed parts of course, but thought the rest were universal regardless of config (I may be incorrect). But if anyone gots left over for 9mm I'll happily purchase!
Are you in the us?
If you are in eu i have basically a whole 9mm double sheer fmg
Going to go through my DMs for order requests this weekend
And I'll only sell complete kits, with what ever spacers I have left. Once I'm out of spacers I'm not sure what the plan is
appriciate that, but yea im in California
just got my parts from send cut send
just have to order the rest of the hardware now to buikd it
FMG Github has been updated, the old files are still in the old main branch. I pushed this change to V2.0
I will rename the old main branch to V1.0
Witch plates can be reused in the update?
everything but the stepper mounts
i think i did the rwv be mounts not 100 percent sure
whats diffrence
rev b but ill look if not ill order new plates
huh?
I think they’re talking about version 2
Viper version 2 just got released. When did you do your parts?
rwv?
Typo. Think they were trying to say rev b
Has anyone had issues with fushi ABEC9 bearings failing after a very short time?
I have my belts tensioned to 230hz and this is the second time they've started clicking
I haven’t tested to that tension level but Fushi has treated me very well so far
Interesting.. I don't know if it's the oil leaking out from the 65c chamber temps
I've got 8mm shaft steppers and both the bearing and the pulleys arent a slip fit like I had with the 5mm ones. would you slightly sand the shaft or try use heat to get it on?
ok pulleys are on after just keeping them on the printbed for a moment, they're aluminium. bearings are stainless I supposed so they probably need more heat to expand a bit
Are they ZZ bearings?
No they're RS
I've only used cheap abec1 bearings, just what ever I find cheap on Amazon
Weird, i only know ZZ bearings to be leaking grease, RS shouldnt
and yea i dont even think my NSK bearings have an ABEC rating, doesn't really tell the full story of the bearing, just that a few parts have good tolerances
Looking up what I can find on nsk 695s looks like abec1 is standard
They use class zero
Probably, they also have their own tolerance class names, im not very worried about it
Which I assume is class normal
Yeah, still have to reach out to alchemy to get my F695's theyre harder to find, after that my FMG hardware is all ready to go
Opted for sanding the shaft, wasn’t much
I've had to sand most of my stepper shafts
How did you do it? I have just connected it and dry-homed without the belt till it was sanded enough
Oh 🤣 I was just worried I’d sand it uneven
I never had to sand for pulleys, just a couple dual shear bearings
holy shit I want my LDO steppers back, the omc steppers are much louder - or maybe its just the tighter belts?
Performance electronics tend to be louder
the 8mm shaft was the only change tho, and I've tightened the belt slightly stronger, this must be it, I cant imagine they sound so extremely different with exactly the same winding specs
Out of curiosity, if I want to use the old style double shear (V1 lower stepper plates with a flanged bearing - I have plenty on hand) the V2 is all I would need to change for the cutout correct? Geometry and such remained the same otherwise?
No need to update then
Perfect - thank you
The update with the bearing change made it easier for me to modify the printed files for the 4th both mod and maintain it
And the top plate isn't a huge improvement, just use a ball key or L key
Or both
Still need a ball or L key with the update anyways
Just gives a bit more space for the ball key
Fair enough. Got it. I wasn't tracking the need for the ball end still, all good regardless. I like how they look and I need to order some more parts
These will get me over the minimum order
That works then
I also like how they look
Only reason I didn't do that before, was trying to keep the bom count on dxf files down. 4 plates are cheaper than 2, though that price difference isn't as great anymore through SendCutSend. And the bearing spec change is more important than saving a couple dollars
agreed - one part is $30, add a second for $9 more . . . .
I do like how all 3 are different on the new plates though. I did not catch the difference when I mass countersunk the plates and had to re-order the bottoms. The new setup will prevent folks (me) from missing that
You can still mix up the bottoms.... I did already lol
I’m excited for my thick boy bottom plate
Hi guys, I’m on the fence of going to build the 9mm fmg set, with 4th bold mod and double shear mod.(thought if I jump the gun, I’ll go all out)
I’ve downloaded the latest dfx files that has been updated last week, to send it to my laser guy.
But is there an all out bom list ör a detailed build topic I can use to check for parts and motors etc. In my search I saw something about a miss count with the bearings.
Thx in advance (fyi I have a lot of spare 4040 extrusion, any ideas if I could use them for rigid frame or enclosure attached to the Ender 5 plus frame?)
Did you get the new revision of plates?
https://github.com/TurtleCrawler/Mercury-One.1---Full-Metal-Gantry/blob/V2.0/FMG Guide.pdf
(from the V2.0 branch)
Yes I think I did, I’ll dubbel check it when I’m back at my pc.
Everything should be updated and correct now
But it's still possible that I missed some small details
Allright, I double checked and it’s version 2.0 👍🏼
do you have a changelog?
No, might add one later. It was just the stepper towers, a few printed spacers to make them all the same od. And some bom and CAD fixes
Nothing with the metal parts changed on the xjoints or front towers
perfect thanks
Good to hear, I’ve just ordered the parts at the laser guy, let you guys know when I receive them. Now going to see what I need more haha. Any stepper motor suggestions and tool head suggestions?Currently have a full stock Ender 5 plus with btt board, e3d hemera and klipper to donor for the fmg.
Whats the suggested place to buy the 635rs bearings for double shear?
cant find them from fabreeko, west3d or kb3d
I buy pretty much all of my bearings from amazon
I cant remember what bearings are in my current setup will find out when i tear more apart to see if they are 635rs
I have 8mm shafts
that website is confusing for me to find parts on
yeah much more common sizes now
Is it 698-2RS?
698RS doesnt exist XD
I think this is the correct one
$6 a pop, damn
Alright, should be good to order
i dont see rs from nsk at all on misumi
Dont think there is
definitely does, smh
i bought some for like $15/pc
Misumi's NSK collection is quite lacking imo
i spent ages to find RS versions of all the NSK bearings I needed
Ends up being $260 for 20x F695, 10x 695, and 2x 698
they dont have them on misumi i dont think
Yeah they don't, they had a lot of RS NSK's missing
Had to find other places to get them, think i ended up only being able to find the F695 RS on misumi, rest were on other sites
The F695 RS from misumi are also double the price of the ZZ's
https://e-z.tools/oox3u7eg.png
(they're labelled F695-H-DD1)
Not sure if all the misumi sites share inventory or what, but i cna find it on the uk one
Yeah, F695 will have a flange
Dang yall doing nsk for your flange stacks?
I'm doing NSK for every bearing, apart from the ones in my rails 😂
I ordered some 635ZZ for double shear a while back
Now I feel like I should get some f695s 🥹
I'm not taking the blame for anyone ordering nsk bearings 😂
I’ll just tell my wife Nick said I needed them this time
No more flange bearing for double sheer in the bottom plate? Is the double sheer now in the plastic for both 8mm and 5mm now?
I went and read the docs instead of being dense. I like how the bearings are supported now with the 5mm.
im reodering my 6mm FMG parts this week to the proper v2 parts didnt realize @shut pewter changed them after i placed my first order but have everything else to start printing the parta
Yeah I was posting a bit to let people know that I was working on pushing that update. Just took a bit longer than I thought
its all good
I'll stick with v1 for now as full full metal version.
will v1 FMG take v2 printed parts?
when i swap out these stepper towers if they are i can just take all of it and swap it to my first merc
Probably? Just won't have the proper bearing supports
Their is 4 files in the 6mm top mount cad section witch of the 4 is the correct 2 files?
Yeah i need the imperial cad but their is 4 files their or are two just duplicates?
The full file names are the same
OMG
nvm
im sorry
pro vs plus.....
genuinely feel like a numbskull now
You were making me question my own sanity as well 😂
Yeah sorry about that, ill exit now lol
So I'm looking to combine a VZ-CNC head and FMG 9mm on my updated M1.1 build.
I see folks mentioning replacing the front pillars with stand-offs to ease belt setup, but I'm more concerned about the belt angles.
The Pillars seem to be rather far forward of the belt path, I'd think this may cause rubbing on the bearing stack when the toolhead is to the ends of the X axis. Am I overthinking this?
You need to center the gantry on those m5 bolts
Ahhh, I see it now. Yeppp gantry is out of alignment, thank you
It's low too. Must have still been in the default position from the non-FMG cad
I also just noticed today that I made some errors in the BOM when I updated it
yeah I didnt set the xjoint locations to match the gantry location in the fixed mercy cad, just picked a location when I did the belt path file.
and this mod does lower the entire gantry a bit as well.
magic when you properly align things.
Maybe I'll add gantry extrusions and rails on the next round of cad updates
I can work out how to add those in a parametric way to save out to all 16 step assembly files.
I'll look for an update. Ordered spacers and stand-offs a few days ago.
I need to work on updating Fraks before I do anymore updates outside of minor fixes like the BOM counts on the M3 hardware I missed
Need to build a Fraks too, so I'll be on the look out for updates.
I was going to mention that 38mm standoffs fit well but then I thought I misread something, deleted it, rewrote it, thought I misread it again and deleted it. 😅
What I was going to say is that I, too, am planning on doing a 9mm FMG with the CNC toolhead on one of my Mercs but I want to use 5mm ID aluminum spacers like I did on the FMG instead of printed spacers. The 38mm standoffs, though a little difficult to find, fit without additional shims or flipping the bottom plate (which fit 37mm ok and are easier to find but I had to add a 0.3 or 0.5mm shim, I can't remember which)
where did you find the spacers?
The spacers or the standoffs?
Oh I got them on eBay
Awesome, thanks. I have a few of the 37mm ones and would love to ditch the shim. And these would match the remainder of the standoffs.
I just found this on AliExpress:
C$0.65 | 1/2Pcs M3 Red Black Round Aluminum Standoff Column Rods Aluminum Spacer Coupling Column for RC Multirotors OD=5mm Length 4-100mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_m07YAVb
If you message this seller they will make you 38mm stand offs
They are making me some right now
My stock "posts" are bent from the gt3 belts.
I ordered some 35mm standoffs and figured on stacking shim washers on both ends to make up the difference. Not ideal but doable. Or maybe design some up and have PCBway make purpose made pillars. Yet to be determined.
Make sure you measure them. I had a seller on AliExpress tell me something similar when I needed custom standoffs and they sent me a standard size that were 1mm off.
I would have totally tried them for some red ones. Luckily, I have some extra I might polish and anodize red myself. 👍
I'd be interested in some 9mm pillars. 😁
next vid Mandic builds FMG Nebula?!?!
Not next but soon. Compiling parts and planning at the moment. Probably January or February.
Be the update to my Merc1 video.
Awesome. Can’t wait to watch it
Any hints if you're doing any out-of-the-ordinary customizations to the build? I mean outside of the 9mm and CNC toolhead. 😅
Flap Controlled CPAP and Kraken motors will be on the menu. I'm sure there will be more, but for now I'm ensuring I've got the "basic build" ironed out before I go crazy with changing things.
But it IS getting a Magneto cutter...

nebula too or?
metal hydra 👀
very hyped
I really like the 'CFLAP' 😅
I have it on my 3 Nebula 370 builds but I'd like to switch to a more compact, aesthetically appealing version someday.
Nebula, yes.
You dont use knurled for the added grip?
I can see belts moving with smooth
Unless its less of an issue with 9mm
I just used 37mm standoffs and a washer
I opted for smooth because I'm planning to use aluminum spacers with a 5mm ID to space the belts apart. So, the belts won't move once the 5mm ID spacers are in place, plus using 38mm standoffs means I'm working with 20mm of space to fill and I like that it works out even like that. 😅
I might try integrating CFLAP into my build, space is kinda rough though so a more compact version would be nice
Are there any FMG 9mm builds here i can read up to? Looking for some insparation and "guidance" with some things. For instance i have 2 e3d hemera extruders im really happy with. But they are a bit Bulky - but would like to start first with them.
Just looking i am capable enough to adjust the EVA 2.4 hemera to the FMG 9mm version..
anyone running front mounted ganteries? is there a difference in plates/printed files?
Just the X-gantry plates are different
Everything else is normal
@opal spindle has build log with similar extruder here:
https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1407228050017619999
you might also be interested in my toolhead design:https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1441929339066126549
There's only one part that needs to be changed to adapt to any toolhead/extruder combo I'm aware of
What bed leveling system are you using? I don't have a hemera to measure but as long as the mounting hole spacing is comparable to the SO3's (it looks like it might be) the only concern I have is the nozzle height offset if you're using a eddy current sensor
I’m for now on the standard bed leveling system from the ender 5 plus (2x z stepper and bl touch) but thinking of going with a beacon/eddy. Which measurements do you need to verify?
The mounting hole spacing and height of the bottom of the nozzle from the the bottom mounting hole
Im going to measure tomorrow and come back to you.
Ok
I feel like i remember seeing at one point that genuine gates idler's required a smaller diameter shim, if that is correct, what diameter size shim do i need?
Where are you sourcing those from, probably havent since you have stuff stock piled
I think I bought some 5x10 instead, guess I’ll order some new ones
9mm? then you are fine
Ah nice
do you all know if m5X8mm shims would work with gates idler, can'T seems to find 7mm ones in canada
RC cars often use 5x7 shims for axle bearings
What bearing retaining compound is suggested? Looking for green shows 10 different kinds. :0
https://www.amazon.com/Retaining-648-Cylindrical-Components-Assemblies/dp/B0CHWFVV2Q
Product Max Gap Fill Max. Temperature Key Characteristics & Application
603 0.1 mm (0.004") 150°C (300°F) Low viscosity for close-fitting parts, good for use where surfaces cannot be consistently cleaned (oil tolerant).
609 0.15 mm (0.006") 150°C (300°F) General purpose, low viscosity, designed for clean surfaces, often used for augmenting press fits.
620 0.2 mm (0.008") 230°C (450°F) Highest temperature resistance of the group, high strength, designed for permanent bonding of cylindrical parts exposed to high heat.
638 0.25 mm (0.01") 180°C (356°F) Highest strength for general industrial applications and large gaps, high viscosity, rapid fixturing, tolerates minor surface contaminants.
648 0.15 mm (0.006") 180°C (350°F) Fast-curing with high strength, excellent for stainless steel and other passive metals, primerless.
680 0.38 mm (0.015") 150°C (300°F) Largest gap filling of the group (along with 660), medium/high viscosity, used for slip fits and worn assemblies to restore fit.
so..... maybe 620 or 648?
620 for temp, 648 to work with the stainless on the bearing surfaces?
641 loctite.
I know it has been asked before and I tried searching but haven't found anything so am dumb, but the printed parts of this only provide support to hold things in place right? Not any structural strength? So if I use ABS, thats OK? Or do I need to use ASA-GF?
yup abs is fine
Thanks, Turtle.
asa is probably better, but in the stepper mounts they just space the bearing stacks and help guide the belt
I have more colors of both but only black and white ASA-GF
Did you have an opinion on the bearing compound? Is 641 the right stuff?
You can’t make this up lol, I’ve serviced my bearings and the idler stack fell to the floor and has vanished. I am sure I have at least two spares but they’re vanished as well. Guess no more printing today 🤣
I like your second name
I got my sendcutsend order today! How are you all cleaning up the edges? Small needle files?
120 grit sandpaper
Really? 🤔 OK! I’ll give it a shot. Thanks Charlotte.
i noticed when doing my toorhed idler on my feont mount x joints that rhere is extra space between the printed apacer and the top of rhe joint ahould inuse more shims to take it up or mod the spacer
That's common, shim as needed
okay cool
Noticed something in the FMG cad file for the new 4th bolt mod while referencing measurements.
The belts are 5mm away from the bottom of the x joint plates. the right side is centered on the bearing stack, and idler.
on the left side the bearing stack the belt is centered but the idler it is not centered and is sitting directly on the flange of the idler.
I will have to look at this later
Just a limitation of placement/space.
Yeah i figured it was something like that, do you know if gates makes a less tall toothed idler?
dont think so
I never had issues
I just made sure they were inside the path, some walk is buit into each part
That’s cause send cut send doesn’t f your parts up(on purpose it feels like at this point)
I figured out a solution to the spacing
if the lower belt moves up 0.475 in the cad file and different size spacers and adjustments to the rear printed towers would solve the limitation
Here is my solution to fixing the belts if you wanna take a look at it, their would be tiny discrepancy in shim heights. Just trying to come up with a solution to less belt walk.
that was just a quick modifcation so some might not be exact but the idea is their
I know its a lot later then i suggested, but life came up.. But the meassurements are :
34mm from heart to heart screws in the hemera.(horizontal) and up and down is also 34mm( square setup)
and distance from heart lowest screw to bottom of nozzle is 22mm
yay I found LDO motors with the 8mm shaft, https://www.ebay.de/itm/376464409390
Did you buy them all?
I’m sticking with my 8x55 2504’s until classifieds are in Europe
I would take classifieds over those unreliable turds
My krakens started failing immediately at max power
Also had a dead internal bearing
I have zero complaints with my classified motors.
They are excellent. Iv heard lots and lots of bad stuff about the krakens.
What is "classified motors"?
Fabreeko X honeybadger Classifieds
Lets ask Thomas from 3DO about that
Once they’re out of beta that’s the plan
too late I already ask
I just got done putting the belt on and don't have tool to check the tension right now. But it doesn't seem to be very smooth. This is my 1st core xy printer so I'm not sure how smooth it's supposed to move with the belts on.
No smooth how?
Like you feel binding/racking?
Or just mild resistance
I feel mild resistance with the belt on. Off I could slide it along the rails a lot smoother.
Motors add resistance, this is normal
Ok now I feel relieved. On to the next steps.
got all my plates in now just waiting for more asa to print 4th bolt parts then can reasymble plates and start building frame
Anyone uses CNC router cut parts or is the recommendation laser cut?
i use cnc cut
Oh no it feels like I am repeating every mistake u do just a year later 🤣
So you burnt yours at 3amps? Those are v2, supposedly running cooler but I am going to use the temperature sensor to monitor how they do
Yeah, both no longer sound correctly or perform nearly as good as new. One also developed shaft play from a dead bearing.
Then they refused to accept them back for replacements or repairs
Hopefully those do okay, but I will never support devil designs products
Can someone point me in the direction of a Mount (preferably CNC) that can take a top mount linear rail to be able to mount a toolhead on the front without moving the rail. I have seen them before in the past but cant find them now. Its like a 360 adapter that has the rail and extrusion inside with mounting holes in the front etc. Hope this makes sense.
I have the FMG coming but need a toolhead and the metal EVA toolhead looks so big and ugly
If it was mate for 3.0 then perhaps but the 2.4 personally speaking while it may be a great toolhead for me is awful looking
Just run front mount
I cant as I have the lightweight gantry
have it this long time, even bought 2 different ones and both as top mount.
You could stay top mount and run the vz cnc tool head for zero g
Mellow Alll Metal CNC ZeroG Printhead Bracket For Goliath Crazy Dragon Hotend Sherpa Extruder Mini Mercury Ender 5 S1 3D Printer
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mM5hLbn
Does that not make the EVA toolhead?
The EVA tool head is either the eva2.4 or e34m1 (eva 3 for mercury 1).
Documentation for the EVA3 for Mercury One mod.
Both EVA tool heads are top mount
And they’re printed. Don’t think I’ve ever seen a metal EVA tool head. That would be heavy as hell
Yea EVA is not a route I want to go down.
The VZ CNC tool head for zero g is the tool head for vzbot that was adapted for zero g belt path.
Ahh I see, that sounds like what I need then. Do you know if it can take the 9mm belts? The main reason I went for the FMG
Ah. It can’t take 9mm belts.
Ah shoot
Well it can, but you’ll have to replace the front bars with threaded spacers
Which could cause other issues. People run them that way.
Hmm... more research required then, I guess im snookered unless I go for a DIY option
You can take a look through this build log for instance. They run em with knurled spacers on the front and I believe 9mm belts
https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1449598256857485362
Nice one, thank you for your help, very much appreciated
Are you getting extra plates? You have both front and top mount XY joints in there
Yes, thats intentional, i want to be able to switch between top and front mount in case a tool head design comes along i like
👌
give me a while, i also need to like quadrouple check everytime i go to order something lol
it's the most eonomical way to do it, given the high "packing fees" and freight fees these guys charge
Looks good to me atleast
Is there anything i should be aware of considering the material for the standoffs and spacers? Would it cause issues if i mixed aluminium standoffs with stainless steel spacers?
No, the hardware is generally stainless anyways so you'll get galvanic corrosion anyways if it happens, if thats what your worried about.
It was mainly that and different thermal expansion coefficients, but for the latter, I was unsure of if it could have a tangible impact in reality.
I'll just go ahead and mix and match then
Thanks for the reply by the way! 🙂
Ok, so I've got another question, this time regarding the hub pulled live idlers.. Can they be replaced by a 20T 2GT 5mm ID idler? Or will this cause some issues?
Or is it needed to use a de-hubbed pulley as live idler to be able to use the set screws to secure it?
Im making the 9mm version btw.
Defeats the point of the live idler
Upgrading to bigger bearings that can handle the tension
double the bearing = more spin? xD
Thank you! That thought crossed my mind. I wasn't so sure what a "live idler" meant!
But i can see the reasoning behind the design.
I wonder if roller bearing exists in this size
when I am counter sinking these screw holes do I need to make them deep enough for the entire screw head to be flush with the top of the piece of aluminum or should they stick out a little bit so there’s more meat for the head to push against?
basically, I’m five and I don’t know what I’m doing. Help.
I would highly recommend you do slightly deeper
Having the head poke out will cause your plate to slightly warp from getting screwed down
Depends on the location
All bottom plates, and the top stepper plates need to be just under flush.
OK. Thank you both. I will make them a little deeper.
Mainly just the stepper towers, but those also need the new plates
damn I still have the old ones
Not worth changing really
hmm I need to look if I have those old files
for the 9mm BOM, should the M3x30 and M3x40 standoffs be threaded? I'm having trouble finding non-threaded ones
same question for the M3x10 and M5x40 Spacers
You're getting the kit from my, that's included
awesome 🙂
is 6m enough for the 9mm belt (total length, so 3m per)?
Which printer? Pro or plus
I think even 5 meter is enough for both of them, I vought 2x 2.4 meter belts
oh, plus
yeah 5m is enough
Do you still have more kits available?
Yeah just dm me. There is a bit of a lead time, still getting parts finished and sorted
I didn't know there was a kit.. Would have gotten that instead of self sourcing had i known lol
turtle has them sometimes but then there’s also shipping to EU, etc
It’s really nice just getting all the hardware included
Saves a lot of time. And mistakes i did, like ordering the optional 8x x-joint spacers in 3mm as opposed to 5mm..
Yeah I don't always have them, and wasn't doing them for almost a year due to lack of time. Then it took me like 6 months to push the update
And didn't want to send the old rev out before that was done
Understandable!
Ok pmd
is there a 4wd version of this gantry system?
Theres no AWD config for the FMG mod
whats fmg?
Nor for the stock mercury motion system, you'd need to venture into user mods
i thought fmg just meat front mounted
full metal gantry
ahh
