#unsure what to fix.
425 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Possibly a lot of over extrusion. What extruder are you using?
Spider v3 @minor sky
I think that’s your hotend.
Extruder is more likely to be the issue.
Also could be a 2 minute benchy lol.
Have you calibrated your e-steps yet?
i added the hydra mod
it worked fine before i added it
yes when i had just the merc setup
i just added 2mm lead and 2mm pitch screws
as in i just finnished doing it 2 min ago
Have you checked your Z moves 50mm when told to and not more
Did you switch from Marlin to Klipper?
yup klipper
Did you calibrate the steps for the extruder? No idea what a stock extruder would be in Klipper
Can you share your extruder section from your config?
new issue...
didnt work out like turtle said it would
lol
or im doing something wrong
What’s the hydra doing? Can’t tell much by the video
Looks like it is bound up like a mutha!
just saw this, ive gone over everything more then once now
still having this issue and im super lost as to why or what to look for to change
Benchy 2. Without input shaper settings turned on.
Benchy 1. With input shaper settings turned on.
That’s ugly. Did you calibrate pressure advance?
ive attempted to yes
didnt seem to help tho
and when i set it to 0 the issue is still there
i should mention thats a 200% calibration cube too
i thought i might have had a loose bolt or something, but all of them are tight
Straight lines seem to be stacking and extruding kinda ok, only when there is a directional change...
Maybe look at your slicer preview and see what flow is doing in those sections.
Maybe check extruder current in Klipper or on the actual board and make sure filament path is clear and gears are snug.
What you can do is post a g-code file here and "we" can see all the slicer parameters if you are using ORCA.
i forgot my phone at work and now i have to turn on the printer the hard way
(i have smart plugs)
ill have the file i printed in a second
can you possible send me a file to print 😛
you can try this but my start/end gcodes might cause it to not work.
it is the zero g moonman
what nozzle you using? extrusion width is 0.66 to 0.72mm
You're using a 0.6 nozzle correct
.4
Oh okay lol
.6 was the ender 3 😉
I've still been known to use 0.6 with a 0.4 nozzle but I've never gone bigger
(plumpkatt has been trying to help me fix this for months)
I use 0.7 with a 0.6 nozzle
Yeah I'm stumped as to what your issue is lol
That's why I've kind of held off on completing my build
And I was stumped on an issue of my own that I just finally sorted out
Your layer height is 0.15, that is outside of the "norm" IMO.
rule of thumb in my experience w/ a 0.4 nozzle is to adjust layer heights in increments of 0.04.
ie standard is 0.2 then 0.16 then 0.12 etc.
If I go less than 0.12 things get weird.
Also if your nozzle is 0.4 your extrusion width is way off IMO.
this is my 0.4 nozzle extrusion width.
I totally agree with what he's saying
I experience the same with going under 0.12 layer height
okay well now to reprint
I like 0.2
That's usually my norm otherwise I'll drop down to 0.16
I try to keep it multiples of my nozzle size
Also smaller layer heights are more susceptible to heat creep
Not saying you're having a heat creep issue
I had a threaded pole mount that I had to print in my "fine" settings to make sure that the threads would print right. I used 0.12 and it worked great, definately not my normal mode though, usually stick w/ 0.2 and adaptive if I need a fast part.
I just find that the noticeable difference isn't much
I really like 0.2 and if I really want it nice I'll do 0.16 but very rarely ever do I do 0.12 but if I go lower than that it'll get weird
Also don't you have a finer pitch Z screw?
I think you have the one that uses double the steps?
For whatever reason I have the numbers 800 and 1600
Who's eating who's spicy noodles lol
Don't know why I have noodles on the brain 🤦
🤣
lol
I do love ramen
i cant wait to see the results of this print
I didn't realize you were printing it 0.12 either
I never thought to ask
I assumed you were using a 0.6 nozzle as well
You have too many different printers
Lol
the only issue with it is the blobs
Which could be over extrusion because of pressure advance and/or retraction?
which is definitly from the moisture
I didn't think of that
oh and the pa
In fact I've been reading that if you have pressure advance tuned properly, there's not much need for much retraction?
i think @worldly urchin fixed my issue
Awesome
It could have been something weird with your slice also by the way
You play with MF files
It's easy to accidentally change your settings when you load somebody else's MF
thats probably what happened too
get your line width set correctly as well as your layer height then tune flow, retraction, and then PA
Should be fine.
Now that you have it set like that you should still run your tests to get your PA and retraction settings and flow
At least that's my opinion
idk how to find the correct height and stuffs like that
ive always guessed or asked plump lol
Just keep it in multiples of your nozzle size
Flow is important as it can really throw off layer "even-ness" and PA
But to be honest lately I've been using 0.4 for my first layer and it's amazing
Doesn't matter if it's a 0.4 or 0.6 nozzle
0.3 also works really nicely
It helps hide any imperfections in your bed
kk
That is my layer settings. If you wanted to keep things really simple you can set all "lines" to 0.4 and all "layers" to 0.2
This is a 0.6 nozzle printing at 0.7 with at 0.2 layer height
All the other prints you're used to seeing from me however are printed on a 0.4 nozzle using 0.6 line width add a layer height of 0.2
Tricolor PLA
I suppose yes silk
But you've seen all my other prints and I follow the same things I'm telling you
This is the second test print on the ender 5
i wonder if ill have better luck with a .6 with silk
0.6 is awesome on a 0.4 nozzle. Just saying
Melvin taught me that and I was surprised
There's a lot of things such as the cactus vase or geode vase, it will fail if you stay at a 0.4 line with with a 0.4 nozzle
he taught us alot, even stuff we dont talk about lol
the cold bed thing blew my mind
i think its cause it cleans the filament
It does that but it also lubricates the heat break
deburrs the filament
I don't know what all it does but it works great
I use avocado oil
Mineral oil will make for a weaker print
yeah i ran out and got some avocado oil
And it does add a shine when you use an oiler
then one of my housemates fucking cooked with it
I don't use it that often anymore though
Using an oiler will almost eliminate strings and counter-react moisture in your filament
It sounds crazy and many disagree
ty @worldly urchin !!
Congrats
idk what it is about my slicer but my printer doesnt like it lol
and i just remade all the settings?
i have an idea
Interesting I've never seen that setting
Makes sense to me
I have Cartesian marked
What are you using for retraction distance
And are you boating or direct drive
It looks boding to me?
bowden
atm
i gotta figure out how spicynoodles added the pause on any layer thing
@worldly urchin when you get a chance can you post your orca profile so i can learn from it
yes
pla
210/68 wat i normally print pla at
brass .4
i dont think it was ever binding
1 sec
let me post picctures of the model spicy sent
just did
if this is bowden, remove the pressure advance value in the filament profile
yes
bowden and pressure advance can be a pain to tune from what I have heard.
im going to put a dd on it
once i get it figured out
but didnt want to add more variables
were do i find that
ima nublet with settings
210 can also be to hot for some pla's, can depend on the hotend as well
orca
what hotend?
zero experiance with that one, not sure how accurate its thermistor location is.
okay thats good to know
have a known baseline of it working
where did you get that base config for? looks like the base config was setup for awd
the speeds I defined in the base profile were fairly conservative
have you fixed this?
extruder
I would actually calculate it, and remove those commented out ones
its a creailty motors
which should be able to use known defualts no?
oh
then the calulated distance
is this test
but the think is
with extruders, the gear that pushes the filament is often created using what is called gear hobbing. And its often not super accurate in the final diameter
so the gears vary a bit
i was hoping to get his orca settings
so try to slice it myself
im getting tired
i ment sliced*
I believe newer ones that you see in more modern extruders use sintered gears, which are more consistent.
i sorry
lol
i just realized i have a dual gear extruder on it too
im using the same value i used on my ender 3 before i put the dd on
This has nothing to do with your issues, but you can delete this section in your config since you have ztilt.
which worked well
I am just looking over your config for any obvious issues
You said you didnt do input shaper? it is definde in your config
and those numbers are very low
probably better to just remove those for now
i did, i was told it was crazy looking by klipper people
okay good
i think it was because it has loose wires
okay that should be good
also I have never used firmware retraction, not sure if you need to change the slicer settings to support it?
i normally used firmware stuff over slicer
i didnt know it was set in slicer
i agree with this
but idk how to do it properly
i thought i did it correctly
if you are going to use firmware retraction, you need to enter the pritner settings and enable it there
already set 😛
you showed the one area with it at zero, so I was worried 🙂
i thought 0 would disable it
not gonna fight ya
im just gonna turn it on
and disbale firmware
I have heard some argue that firmware is better, but I like changing it in my slicer
you can enter the same valuse you have in firmware into the slicer
i know 😛
make sure advanced is checked
6 might be to much? but I cannot recall what bowden likes for retraction
bligblue said to set 6 😛
i dont have my phone on me
or id post a picture
yay i think i clogged my hotend this past benchy i was printing lol
i knew it was a matter of time
i havent washed the bed in a while
I used to use this retraction test http://retractioncalibration.com/
oh i was just using benchy cause i know it was messing up in the first few layers
I think I got lost in how to get it to work with my start macro at one point, and stopped using it
but that is by far the best retraction calibration print I have ever seen
so what test should i do after i clear the clog
ima do it all tomorrow then post the results
true
but i think the wires probably still an issue
or will they tell you if my belts are off
i havent ziptied them the best yet
i was trying to get the housing on the eva
kk
is there a certin input shaper test
i should do
i know there are a few mods to do it
no
thats what i wanted to know
😄
this
im assuming the macros are in the installer cause i dont see them in the readme
gotcha
oh
it stopped doing stuff
lol
Cb1?
cm4
Try it again
ctrl c to stop it?
I dunno
idk linux well
I am Linux dumb
that makes 2 of us
ty for help guys
ill post results tomorrow
goin to bed
installed and ready for tomorrow
Hey man sorry I missed this, what are you looking for?
If you look at the very bottom of the g-code I sent you it has all my settings there. Think that is an ORCA feature.
FYI I use firmware retraction vs slicer one.
I have yet to find a simple way to export printer and filament settings directly from ORCA and had to weed down in the Windows file system to transfer them to another computer.
Concur w/ the the others on doing a retraction test. If your bowden is quite long and requires a long retraction > 3mm-ish you may need a little extra length on restart to get at the same pressure level in the hotend for proper extrusion. That might be a reach and I have no personal experience w/ that setting but maybe somthing to keep in the back of your head.
Are you using the stock E5 extruder setup w/ the side mounted stepper and long bowden? While not ideal that should work as long as the gears have good grip, the tube is nice and smooth w/ no zipties etc clamping the crap out of it and both tube connectors are not allowing the bowden to move in and out when extruding and retracting.
A quick and easy test to see if your nozzle is clogged or not is to heat up your hot end to normal printing temps and turn the extruder by the knob or do a quick extrude of 50mm at 5mm/s or so from klipper. It should shoot out quickly, cleanly, and relatively in a straight line. Your hotend has decent flow and should perform without issue i.e. no skipping at the extruder or the filament not coming out straight.
Can you export your profile
That you used to slice the file you sent me
See if these work.
The last two files come from the following folder, I *think you should be able to drop them in there and poke around
C:\Users\(your username)\AppData\Roaming\OrcaSlicer\user\(some numbers)\filament
These are from C:\Users\(your username)\AppData\Roaming\OrcaSlicer\user\(some numbers)\machine
That looks perfect ty
testing profile now
ty for sending the 3mf file 🙂
SET_PRINT_STATS_INFO TOTAL_LAYER=[total_layer_count]
ty for teaching me about this spicynoodles
i think this is working
can never win, my probe stopped working and idk why
so i just found the ball in the back z to be out of the socket.
it was sitting ontop of it
figured it out, it was the motor pullys being misaligned..