The Chronicles of Planny - 2.1.234 - Nebula 255/M1.1/Hydra

[short egret]

Still pretty impressive that you were able to jam in in there 🤣

[steady jay]

You mean screw them upside down onto the lead screws?? Oh it was difficult

[short egret]

Haha yeah...

[steady jay]

Holy shit y’all!

[cloud smelt]

nice! Ive never won a giveaway. Lucky you 😄

[steady jay]

Turns out that it’s just a $35 coupon to their store. LMAO!!!

But! It beats a blank.

[thick holly]

Look into their PolyDryer 😁

[karmic fossil]

their dryboxes are $30 i believe as well

[steady jay]

Yes but the dryER is another $50

[kind spade]

just need the box if you have a filament dryer of any type already

dry in another dryer, then move to the polydry box

[karmic fossil]

^i currently use the creality dryer then place dried spools in drybox wheres it stays at <10%RH

[steady jay]

Got my daylight on a match sticks, disco on a match stick, and my future 9mm Gates belts from Ali. Yaaaaay. Can't wait to get back home to work on it.

[steady jay]

I wonder if my hubby would ship my printer to me so I could work on it….. 🤔

[steady jay]

Oh my damn! #mmu message

[cloud smelt]

you should take a look at this @steady jay
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X41eK9_PCbA

[steady jay]

Hmmm..... Considering colored screws....

https://www.fastener-express.com/metric-blue-aluminum-socket-head-cap-screws.aspx

[steady jay]

Considering also getting these West3D V6 Tungsten Carbide Nozzles 0.4mm for my Phaetus Dragonfly BMS hotend so i can print any type of material once Planny is up and running...

[sterile veldt]

I have 3 of these. 1 regular and 2 volcano. Great nozzles. Also pre-ordered a Bozzle.

[sterile veldt]

OH also all the parts that I've been printing for Thing 1 in the Cookiecad filaments have been with this nozzle. 👍

[cloud smelt]

I have a few nozzle X's laying around if youd like one :)

and a few other well made hardened nozzles from e3d and such

Ill send it with ur gantry parts

I got them for free, so Ill give them to you for free

[steady jay]

Thanks friend!!!

You ready for class tomorrow?

[cloud smelt]

let me send you a list o what youd like

[cloud smelt]

Im stuck on incorporating a few small things still... Im trying to fit everything into a voron cube like design

[steady jay]

Oh interesting 🧐

[cloud smelt]

oop- looks like I ran out of all my hardened ones... the only one I have left is a 0.4 gamma master nozzle from slice which I would like to save for myself, sorry about that

[steady jay]

No worries! Thanks for thinking of me.

[sterile veldt]

I have some new hardened V6 nozzles from Phaetus you can have, @steady jay. Since I'm using TC and SC nozzles I have no plans on using these others. I know I have at least one either 0.5 or 0.6 hardened nozzle, maybe more. Let me check. 👍

[steady jay]

FWIW - I did pick up a Silicon Carbide V6 0.4 Nozzle and an Undertaker Tungsten Carbide V6 1.0mm Nozzle from West3D during the sale. It gave me an error for one of them being out of stock and then it let me purchase it any way ...... soooo....... I don't know what will come of that. 😄

[sterile veldt]

The Phaetus SC nozzle?

It's a nice nozzle until you accident get PC filament so stuck to it that it rips the SC tip off... 😅

[steady jay]

Yeah the one you recommended a little while ago.

Hey @sterile veldt & @cloud smelt - Check out this little ceramic astronaut I got from a Black Friday sale yesterday. The blank and red one I wanted sold faster than I could buy it. Here's the link to the remaining Space Guy inventory - Hammerly Ceramics

once I get him, i'm going to measure his face shield and get a vinyl cutout of a black Z logo or paint it. He'll be my little mascot 🥰

[cloud smelt]

Aw thats cute lol

how big is he?

🤏

[steady jay]

🤐

[steady jay]

4.5" Tall

[steady jay]

So maybe some Slice "Don't-stick-to-me" goo ?

[sterile veldt]

I have some of this stuff but I think my particular situation was of my own design/fault. I was printing clear PC and some filament got caked all over the nozzle tip (because reasons) and instead of heating it up and cleaning it properly, I pulled it cold and the whole tip came off with the clear PC, despite the non-stick coating. Luckily I have another SC nozzle if I wanted to give it another go but I've since switched back to my TC nozzle on that machine for now.

[steady jay]

Couldn't you have just put the nozzle back in?? or did break?

[sterile veldt]

The actual silicon carbide tip broke completely off of the nozzle. 😭

[steady jay]

So much for thinking it was one solid piece! Lame.

[sterile veldt]

I thought the exact same thing at first. 😢

[sterile veldt]

@steady jay I found 2 0.4 and 1 0.5 nozzles. I thought I had one 0.6 somewhere but I'm still looking for it.

[sterile veldt]

Found the 0.6 nozzle as well. 👍 Just let me know where to send them and I can drop them in the mail.

[steady jay]

Holy canoli!

[steady jay]

Finally made it home almost a week ago. Have been trying to recoup from the time away. Knees have been real bad making it difficult to stand up and work on the printer. I never got around to doing any soldering practice while I was out of town. Sucks that I dragged that whole kit up there and then didn't even use it. 🤷‍♀️

Got my Daylight and Disco sticks, SC nozzles, some awesome hardened nozzles from @sterile veldt, the full metal gantry pieces from @cloud smelt, 9mm gates belts, 6 mm gates belts 😵‍💫 , and my ceramic Zero G Astronaut while I was out. I need to take a survey of where I'm at and what needs to be done / fixed. *(HOW MANY times have I said that on here? UGH!) * I should stop looking at MMU stuff until the actual printer is working. LMAO. 🙄

[cloud smelt]

soldering isnt too hard with a good iron 😄

past that, build the stock printer and get it printing before installing all metal, hardened nozzle, etc

[steady jay]

100% agree. That's later stage. 🙂 Just mentioning all that arrived.

Quick glance - This seems to be where I'm at:

• Wiring
  • MCU to SSR
  • Enclosure Lights 🚥
  • Reconnect Heated Bed
  • Complete extension of the enclosure air filter
• Run & tension gates belts
• Finish Toolhead assembly
• CAN Replacing with Orbitool
• Run CPAP hose
• Frame
  • Install door hardware
  • Add vinyl to panels
  • Install most panels
• Adjust wall shelf SO THE PRINTER CAN GO BACK TO IT'S HOME
• Install HULA feet 😉

Future State Ponderings & Activities

• Full Metal Gantry
  • Transfer soul of dead brother to 3D Printer
  • Print & purchase needed parts & install
• Keep the Door Closed - Print solution for enclosure door popping open when chamber heated
• Let Me Outta Here!! - Print updated top corner pieces for filament exit slots
• Does this shirt cover my butt? - Find / create better cover for touch screen that allows room for the side buttons
• Cool it down!! - Print ZeroG Community CPAP Housing Unit for the BTT Turbo fan kit

https://tenor.com/view/fullmetal-alchemist-fullmetal-alchemist-brotherhood-fma-fmab-human-transmutation-gif-16053125

[manic vector]

That’s a super cool logo

[steady jay]

Thank you!

[karmic fossil]

My favorite show!

Doesn’t @trim saddle have a similar one

[trim saddle]

yeah! I've been thinking about getting it as a tattoo for about 20 years now lol

[karmic fossil]

https://tenor.com/view/bullish-bullish-af-buy-buy-moar-crypto-gif-4023638677059070706

I’ve been wanting a new one

[steady jay]

Same!

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/you-can-gif-27326947

[cloud smelt]

I didnt know youre going canbus 👀
what toolhead are you switching to?

[steady jay]

I’m not switching the current setup @cloud smelt

[cloud smelt]

well, in the future obv

do you have an idea in mind?

[sterile veldt]

Are you 100% sold on canbus, have you considered Orbitool instead?

Oh wait didn't you want to do the can/USB combo cable?

[steady jay]

I’m not sold on anything at the moment. I don’t think Orbitool was out when I picked the setup. Or I wasn’t aware of it.

[steady jay]

Well I got some cool nozzles so maybe another v6 h/e … when I need it.

[cloud smelt]

you dont need a v6 hotend to use v6 nozzles :p

[sterile veldt]

@sterile veldt it's USB instead of canbus and MUCH easier to install in my opinion but you'd either have to run another USB cable for Beacon or figure out how to use the can/USB cable to wire both USB boards (I think it can be done, no pun intended)

[steady jay]

Hahahaha

[sterile veldt]

You'd just have to split the 5V and ground between the Orbitool and Beacon... I think...

[steady jay]

Interesting … they have an Orbitool for orbiter v3 but they only have 2.5 out

[sterile veldt]

That's for the Smart Orbiter extruder hotend combo

https://www.orbiterprojects.com/SO3/

[steady jay]

Cool

[steady jay]

Almost done wiring the LED lights. Glad to find out that the white “daylight on a matchstick” goes into a heater port. Solves for having to find a spare fan port to use. Lol

[steady jay]

#CurrentStatus

• Lights are in.
• Air cleaner extension is wired up.
• Door hardware is installed, but the hinge pins don’t stay in. I think they are bad tolerances. I’m going to glue in the bottom parts so they function until I can reprint them.
• Orbiter v2.5 upgrade installed. (Not sure what the little black nubs are for. )
• Orbitool board installed but not connected.

Remaining Physical Build Steps:

• Belts
• Toolhead Assembly
• Toolhead to MCU Wiring
• CPAP hose
• Filament Exit
• Mount Camera
• Acrylic Panels
• Shelf Trim
• Hula Feet
• Stickers

Oh and I have run out of small and almost extra small cable sleeve for my data wires. I have Medium sleeving for the run from the Toolhead to the MCU. 🙄

[cloud smelt]

same lol
I ordered an 100ft reel and its past the return date. oof

[steady jay]

Wow.

[cloud smelt]

it was only like $7 so its ok

but it was a lot larger than I expected

[steady jay]

I imagine so!!! Hahaha

[cloud smelt]

I now have a reel of cable sleeving I will never run out of

need to order the smaller kind on amazon...

[steady jay]

I didn't know they had it on amazon, at least nothing other than black?

Happily, I stand corrected!

[steady jay]

Wrap ALL THE CABLES!

https://tenor.com/view/all-the-things-hyperbole-and-a-half-do-all-the-things-excited-gif-16018689

[cloud smelt]

I only really want black tbh

[steady jay]

That’s fair.

[steady jay]

I CAN"T WAIT TO BUILD THIS!!!! New Box Turtle Overview Video Out

OMG I need their Klipper theme I think....

AND they are doing an enclosure / incorporating PolyDryer boxes!!!

[thick holly]

Come join us in #mmu 😃

[sterile veldt]

One black grub screw goes here

[steady jay]

Ugh. Seriously?! stares at assembled extruder

[sterile veldt]

Yeah, they give you 3 just in case you pull a WarpedScale and lose one... or two... no idea why it's called a WarpedScale... 😅

[steady jay]

lol

[sterile veldt]

I literally have no idea where those other 2 grub screws went... I mean wut?

[steady jay]

LOL!!! check the carpet. 🤣

[sterile veldt]

I'm in the garage on light grey smooth concrete floors! See why I'm baffled?!? 🤣

[cloud smelt]

big magnet

[sterile veldt]

Urf, too much effort for grub screws when I already installed one into the gear so I'm good, but good suggestion. 👍

[steady jay]

Damnit.

[cloud smelt]

your printer is looking awesome!!!

[thick holly]

Janet.

[sterile veldt]

Not sure, but something looks off...

[cloud smelt]

what else do you have left at this point?

[cloud smelt]

wait what happened

[steady jay]

Well back to the drawing board for the shroud it seems……. It’s too long. Sure I could file it down but less fit in there

[sterile veldt]

Looks like the shroud for something UHF. Which shroud is it. Let's modify it!

[steady jay]

https://www.printables.com/model/420929-eva-30-chonky-shrouds-with-led-lighting

[sterile veldt]

https://tenor.com/view/frank-n-furter-rocky-horror-shiver-schmerry-shiver-with-antici-gif-12545076

[steady jay]

Maybe I just printed the wrong one

[sterile veldt]

https://tenor.com/view/frank-n-furter-rocky-horror-anticipation-pation-gif-12545078

[thick holly]

I'm glad someone got it 😄

[steady jay]

Dr. Scott!!

[sterile veldt]

Which one did you print? Looks like 3 sizes on there

[thick holly]

Dr. Scott is legit my favorite character in the movie.

[sterile veldt]

https://tenor.com/view/the-rocky-horror-picture-show-susan-sarandon-screaming-yelling-gif-17339068

One of my favorite scenes

[steady jay]

So dumb…

https://tenor.com/view/rocky-horror-picture-show-rocky-horror-frank-n-furter-dr-frank-n-furter-tim-curry-gif-15622776

[sterile veldt]

That'sa nice lookin' Orbiter 2.5 you got there...

[thick holly]

https://tenor.com/view/rocky-horror-picture-show-rhps-rocky-horror-tim-curry-frank-n-furter-gif-4424410

[sterile veldt]

Ok, that's it. I'm going to Hulu and watching this right now...

For the 500th+ time...

[thick holly]

... they only have the US version, not the UK one 😞

The US version cuts out the song Superheroes at the end of the movie. One of my favorite songs in the movie.

[sterile veldt]

Right, no Super Heroes... 😦

[steady jay]

Okay @sterile veldt … I think I printed out the “long” version. I remember reading something that said “if you have this horned, use that shroud and for all others, use this one…” and mine wasn’t on the list, so I used this one…. But I can’t for the life of me find that commentary. There’s a mid middle and a short model. I could try .

I guess for now, she’ll be faceless…..

[steady jay]

Is that the “dream it, be it” song where they are all in the pool?

[thick holly]

It's after they escape from the castle at the very end.

https://youtu.be/LwLARoHMapY?si=JLfdLtpv5k-Suz2A

[steady jay]

I don’t recall that…. But to be honest, the movie takes a marked nose dive in energy for me and I just stop watching.

[thick holly]

I'm the opposite, it hypes me up. 😄

The music is just fantastic, least to me.

[steady jay]

So functionality wise, I need to plug my Toolhead objects into my Orbitool and then run that cable to the MCU. Then I think I’m done as far as physical stuff that makes the printer work. I have panels here but not going to close it up until I’m certain all my wires and what not are right.

[steady jay]

Soon…

[steady jay]

So Planny is gonna look more like Johnny 5 instead of iRobot. 🤣

https://tenor.com/view/dancing-robot-celebrate-boogie-happy-gif-17189741675124150167

[manic vector]

I refuse to believe you'll ever get to printing until I see the thing print 😉

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/sad-sad-face-gif-9438892752194496466

[silver halo]

teal!???

My merc was orange and teal 😄

[steady jay]

🥹 I like teal. It’s the small bit of basic white chick in me.

[cloud smelt]

HAHA THIS IS SO RELATABLE

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/dog-smile-shyboos-smile-gif-11176241070398833675

[steady jay]

SHE IS ASSEMBLED!!!!

[cloud smelt]

https://tenor.com/view/mochi-mochimons-mochimon-kawaii-cute-gif-13105127215766961484

[steady jay]

I’m legit nervous to turn it on and burn down the house. 🏠 🔥

🤣

[cloud smelt]

It cant hurt to double check wiring and polarity and whatevs

[cyan field]

It looks great. The robins egg blue looks amazing.

[steady jay]

Thank you. It’s actually Polymaker teal. My cell phone captures photos much brighter/desaturated than they actually are.

[steady jay]

Finished putting my vinyls and stickers on inside. It was a pain in the butt putting it on the large back piece - but it should be pretty cool when the lights come on!

I still have a couple more for the door when I finish that up. The hinges were giving me trouble.

[short egret]

liking that backplate! thats fire

[steady jay]

So I think I’m missing the most critical piece of my build…

Can anyone guess??

[steady jay]

I got my panels from Fabreeko and it’s solid black (I think) and then put this car vinyl in it.

https://a.co/d/2ajr7ch

[kind spade]

A matching braided blue iec power cable?

https://www.amazon.com/1-Pack-FILSHU-Heavy-Braided-Computer/dp/B07TXRCX7D/

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/say-less-wanda-sykes-wanda-sykes-im-an-entertainer-i-understand-i-get-the-gist-of-what-you-are-saying-gif-15586181292271597664

Added to cart! Hahaha

[steady jay]

Fixed my hinges and installed the door and put together my poly maker dryer box. :/ the darn thing shipped without the front grommet. I opened a ticket with poly maker to see if they’ll send me another one.

Additionally, the door does not sit flush to the foam strip and the magnets I’m using to hold the handle to the frame aren’t strong enough because of the gap caused by the door panel. I wonder if those magnets should be a little thicker. Especially on the door side. The corner pieces were recessed a bit and so were the ones on the frame piece of the handle “latch”. Thinking I might try to find thicker magnets for those slots and perhaps thicker foam.

[cloud smelt]

They will usually send it for free, so no need to worry about your polybox 😁 . Id recommend maybe buying a heater for it though
As for the handle, I dont really know 🤔

I must say though, this build looks like its turning out AWESOME

[steady jay]

It has the dryer! I just didn’t have it sitting on it in the picture. I’m gonna have to take the top or side panel off the build so I can run my Bowden tube for setup. I don’t have an exit port for it yet.

Thank you Very much!!

[cloud smelt]

have you seen Turtles top corner bowden entrance?

[short egret]

thats a nice touch! I might look into that

[steady jay]

Turned her on!

MCU comes on fine but power to the on/off pi switches very low(switch barely lights up) and the pi doesn’t turn on. And it seems my in and out are backward on the switches.

Checking cabling

[manic vector]

Honestly the most anticipated turn on of the year 😛

[steady jay]

Either the 5v meanwell PSU is shot or the power cable to the pi is bad some how.

Rpi 5 powers up fine with external power source

[cloud smelt]

have you tried powering via GPIO?\

[kind spade]

You have a small gap behind the print? But if the printed magnet holder on the frame is thicker than the foam tape, you will have a minor gap there.

[steady jay]

No, but I found that the power cable I crimped to run from my PSU to my Pi 5 was a bit wonky. So I cut off the old connectors and put new ones on. So both poles are live now! Woo Hoo!!

[steady jay]

I understand that part. I think the more annoying part is that the handle honestly really doesn't pull to the magnets that are screwed to the frame. so it doesn't really pull the door to the frame, except the four corners. I also find that if I screw any of my panel brackets down too much the acrylic panels bow and create gaps between the brackets. Especially on the top panel. I may print four more of the side panel brackets to hold down the top panel gently.

[short egret]

https://tenor.com/view/oh-my-god-its-happening-ok-stay-calm-the-office-gif-6091046

[steady jay]

Yes I did. I downloaded it so that I can print it when I’m up and running. 🙂

[steady jay]

Heard back from Polymaker. They don’t have any spare parts yet for the polyboxes or poly dryers …. So they sent me a code for a free PolyBox!!! 😱

[cloud smelt]

awesome!!! now you get technically two

they might come with a spare grommet. if not, you can probably buy them off ali for cheap

[steady jay]

I put gorilla tape on either side of the hole to seal it off for the time being. And I use the hole in the lid to run the bowden tube currently.

[steady jay]

Pluuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuss......... This

[cloud smelt]

awesome lol

[thick holly]

If you plan on building a BoxTurtle MMU, they are planning on implementing the PolyDryer heater into it in the future 🙂

[steady jay]

Sweet!!!!

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/workaholic-stress-burnout-productivity-fatigue-gif-30384054540515396

Still working on configs. Lots of components to keep track of.

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/funny-dumb-cat-i-cannot-brain-today-i-haz-the-dumb-gif-15031186

[cloud smelt]

ping us if u need help. 😄

[steady jay]

#1240490988334485597 message
OMG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *happy Dance

https://tenor.com/view/excited-hype-gif-8375988033897428193

[steady jay]

I HAVE WIDGETS!!!!!!!!!!!

@spice tartan & @cloud smelt & @sterile veldt & @thick holly & @manic vector

https://tenor.com/view/omg-oh-my-god-crypto-eth-ethereum-gif-27338613

Top glow sticks work now …. 😎

[cloud smelt]

if you need help setting up klipper, tell me :)

[cloud smelt]

awesome!!

[steady jay]

Thanks! I've got the base klipper in along with my Orbitool board, orbiter v2, filament sensor, and the start of beacon. at least it will start allowing me to enter commands now

[cloud smelt]

I think you got the rest then 👀

[spice tartan]

Lookin good! 😎

[steady jay]

Wellll it's telling my that my hotend is 368deg C but it's cool to the touch .... Hmmmm

[steady jay]

Klippy.log is showing me:
TMC stepper_x failed to init: Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_x' register IFCNT
TMC stepper_y failed to init: Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_y' register IFCNT
TMC stepper_z failed to init: Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_z' register IFCNT
TMC stepper_z2 failed to init: Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_z2' register IFCNT
TMC stepper_z1 failed to init: Unable to read tmc uart 'stepper_z1' register IFCNT

and....
Unable to obtain tmc stepper_x phase
Unable to obtain tmc stepper_y phase
Unable to obtain tmc stepper_z phase
Unable to obtain tmc stepper_z1 phase
Unable to obtain tmc stepper_z2 phase

[karmic fossil]

what drivers are they? are the jumpers on the board correct?

[steady jay]

I think my problem is that I dont have jumpers set at all because they are 24v / board power and I was under the impression that you didn't have to set them if the drivers were the same voltage. they are TMC2209 EZ into a BTT Octopus MAX ez v1.0.

I'll go shut down, add the jumpers and retry

[karmic fossil]

just double check voltage input jumper groupings and the communication jumper groupings

[steady jay]

I was going to put jumpers in the VBB slot for the voltage selection

[steady jay]

Not sure what you are referring to with the communication jumpers though ....

[karmic fossil]

ohhhhhhh nvm ez board. im not certain of those sorry

do u have pwoer to motor input and board input?

[steady jay]

I'm not sure

🤪 The board has lights

[karmic fossil]

this is not on right?

[steady jay]

I'm fairly certain I removed that one. I will double check to be sure

[karmic fossil]

connections here? or just pwoer

hv means motor power is connected, vbb means power in connected

as in the motor will draw power from one set of temrinals or the other

[thick holly]

Here's a good general guide for the board. https://os.ratrig.com/docs/boards/btt/octopus-max-ez/

[steady jay]

The only thing I have connected to that rail of connectors is for the mains power into the board.

[steady jay]

I was going to plug my ssr for my bed into my bed-out but I was told to put it in my HE slots instead :/

https://tenor.com/view/stitch-frustration-史迪奇-gif-4802586

[karmic fossil]

the ssr will work either way, it does not draw a lot of current

[steady jay]

Okay .... so....... I got the steppers to respond, but they don't go any where...

[kind spade]

Did you verify movement with stepper buzz?

is this with sensorless homing? if so what are the homing settings?

[sterile veldt]

Pretty sure Bed Out only works if power is supplied to Bed Power, right?

[kind spade]

yes

[steady jay]

Just to make sure on my stepper motor wires, I tested continuity with a multimeter and found which pins are connected for each of the five steppers. Then found my board is setup to receive the pins as 2B 2A 1A 1B. I have to write it down to work it out… does this pic make sense? Do I essentially have them right except maybe polarity. I assumed the first pin of the pair was positive and the second was negative. So the resulting pin/wire colors in the blue box is what I’ll plug into my MCU

[kind spade]

your pairs go on the left and right at the board

I hate how they label them

its confusing

if stepper buzz does not work, then just swap the center 2 pins and try again

[steady jay]

ugh. okay so then the numbers are the pairs and the letters are the polarity, not the other way around. okay. I'll try those.

[kind spade]

motors use letters and boards use numbers, but both use a's b's 1's and 2's

but I think motors place the letter first?

[manic vector]

That's what I have encountered exclusively up until now, with like 6 different brands

[steady jay]

Okay. Adjusted the wiring for steppers x & Y. I am able to send the stepper buzz command. Looks like the X movement is smooth and silent. I do the Y movement and it sounds strained a bit and I don’t honestly witness any movement. I tried to video it, but with me moving, I don’t think you can tell very well.

[steady jay]

So crunchy ....

[cloud smelt]

is stealthchop enabled?

[steady jay]

Yes. I posted my log here: #gantry message

[cloud smelt]

have you tried disabling it?

[patent holly]

you need to disable stealthchop

[manic vector]

Could also be you have got one of the pairs of wires the wrong way around so the stepper essentially oscillates with each (micro) step

Ive managed something like that at least

[steady jay]

I did try it disabled the other night but I’m not sure if it was before or after fixing the wires. Let me try that in a minute.

Any idea on the end stop not working? It’s for the X axis, attached to my orbitool board. It’s always open in the normal config. If I add a ! In front it’s always triggered. It doesn’t register the state change at all. I have tried using a different switch as well.

This is what I’m using, based on the rec on the E34M1 page.

https://a.co/d/8yiMKS9

[patent holly]

maybe the wires on the connection has to be switch?

[cloud smelt]

maybe add "^"? its a lucky guess

or maybe you soldered them on the wrong pins

[steady jay]

Hmmmm

[patent holly]

which orbitool board do you have?

[steady jay]

SO2

[steady jay]

So I'm looking at this picture from the amazon listing. I'm thinking the pins might be voltage / GND / Signal. Since I know we aren't supposed to put voltage into a microswitch, I only did two pins. I think that I put the wire into the Voltage pin instead of the GND.

[patent holly]

you can try to switch the wires

[steady jay]

I only have wires in the two ends. nothing in the middle. I don't remember my reasoning for that but maybe I mistakenly thought they were the same as my other microswitches where the middle I believe is voltage

I'm going to do that definitely.

Disabling Stealthchop is just entering "0", right? or can I just comment the line out?

[patent holly]

just put # in front of it

[steady jay]

Dang it. I think this might be part of the problem. Is there no go way to provide strain relief for jst-xh connectors?

[patent holly]

o boy well that explains it

[kind spade]

I see your nails match your printer today

[steady jay]

Absolutely!!! Thank you for noticing!! 🥰

[cloud smelt]

hot glue

[steady jay]

I did that on the connections to my mcu with purple sparkle hot glue…. Then my wires were wrong. So. Much. Aggression.

[cloud smelt]

https://tenor.com/view/big-oof-size-small-medium-switch-gif-17355313

[steady jay]

Yep

[steady jay]

Fixed the endstop wire on the toolboard end and moved the one wire on the switch end. End stop now shows correctly! woot. Now lets see if commenting out stealth chop makes a difference

@cloud smelt & @patent holly - okay turned off stealthchop and had previously slowed down the homing speed. The X endstop definitely works. But one thing I noticed, besides the choppy diagonal movement, is that it seems that the motors are fighting against each other. I think the issue is with the Y stepper... but I noticed the top belt going back and forth

[thick holly]

Are your belt lengths the same length cut? Same for the same tensioning.

[steady jay]

Yes

My config for my steppers ........

step_pin: PE4
dir_pin: PE5
enable_pin: !PE3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: orbitoolO2:PB0   # End-Stop port on Orbitool; located on right of toolhead
position_endstop: 275
position_max: 275
homing_speed: 25

[stepper_y]                 # Motor-1 aka Top Right
step_pin: PC13
dir_pin: PC14
enable_pin: !PE6
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: PF0            # End-Stop MIN1 port; located on right Y axis rail
position_endstop: 275
position_max: 275
homing_speed: 25

[tmc2209 stepper_x]              # Driver for Motor 2 (Top - Left)
uart_pin: PG13
#diag_pin: 
run_current: 1.1
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

[tmc2209 stepper_y]              # Driver for Motor 1 (Top - Right)
uart_pin: PG14
#diag_pin: 
run_current: 1.1
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999```

My board pins:

Checked pins with multimeter and they are the same. The motors are the same ones (the Honey Badger ones from the Fabreeko kit). The wires are configured the same all the way through.

[steady jay]

OMG!! FRIENDS!!! IT WORKS!!!! No grinding!!!!

After pouring over my configs & checking wiring, I went to the belts like @patent holly & @thick holly suggested. I tensioned them yesterday/earlier with my meter from West3D, but still had the issue. After dinner, I visually checked the belt routes (even though I was confident they were right) again. I then double checked the lengths just to be sure. when I loosened the tension towers down to the initial 4 turns I was surprised to find that I had some slack on the belts. so I grabbed a pair of locking pliers, evened the lengths, and tugged to get the slack out (for all they were worth) and clamped them down (within an inch of their life) again. I used a spectral (??) tuner to check the frequency and dial in the towers. I settled on 118Hz and tightened the main bolts down.

I ended up with the following on both. 👍

rotation_distance: 40
position_endstop: 275
position_max: 275
homing_speed: 25

run_current: 1.1
#stealthchop```

Now i'm comfortable to proceed with the rest of the configuring .... like finishing the Beacon, the CPAP Turbo Kit, the SUAFT, the LEDs, and fans ..... etc.

[steady jay]

and now it's doing it again

all i did was change the homing speed back to 50 and now it grinds. I put it back to 25....... still grinds

[alpine silo]

You said you think the motors are fighting each other? If you do stepper buzz stepper=stepper_y does it move in the homing direction? I wonder if there needs to be a ! In front of the dir pin for stepper y.

Sorry if that’s already been addressed I just started combing through. Your build looks amazing!!

[patent holly]

it is possible that the cables are in the wrong motor like you put the cable for motor A into B

[steady jay]

So I've messed around with the pins some. I now have it so that I get smooth movement towards the home location but it moves in a diagonal direction.

That is, when I g28 x (just home the x axis).

[alpine silo]

If you turn off the motors and move it manually does it try to go diagonal too?

[steady jay]

No. And I did notice, for what it's worth, I can freely move the gantry without disabling them. That feels wrong....

[steady jay]

And thank you!! It'll look much better when I can finally put the panels up.

[alpine silo]

What’s your run_current for the motors?

[steady jay]

1.1

[alpine silo]

Hmm yeah that should be plenty. You definitely shouldn’t be able to move them while they’re engaged 🤔

Looks like you don’t have the sense resistor for the 2209’s. I had to fix that on mine to get them to engage properly. Could be worth a shot.

sense_resistor: 0.110

[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: octo:PC4
##diag_pin: PG6
run_current: 0.85 #.7
interpolate: false
sense_resistor: 0.110
#stealthchop_threshold: 999999

[steady jay]

Thanks! I'll try that

[steady jay]

ooo interesting ..... so I added the sense resistor ......... it's obvious that one stepper is locked but the other one isn't ..... so it moves slightly but only diagonally and the tool head moves as well. ... manually without disabling.

[alpine silo]

Okay on one that is locked. When you do stepper buzz command what does it do? I wonder if it’s trying to turn in the opposite direction so it needs the ! Added or removed

[steady jay]

Hopefully you can witness the movement or the tortured movement (Y). Lmao

[alpine silo]

So y looks like it’s trying to go forward. What’s your stepper config for your Y currently? Do you have a ! On the dir pin or no !

[steady jay]

step_pin: PE4
dir_pin: !PE5
enable_pin: !PE3
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: orbitoolO2:PB0   # End-Stop port on Orbitool; located on right of toolhead
position_endstop: 275
position_max: 275
homing_speed: 25


[stepper_y]                 # Motor-1 aka Top Right
step_pin: PC13
dir_pin: !PC14
enable_pin: !PE6
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 40
endstop_pin: PF0            # End-Stop MIN1 port; located on right Y axis rail
position_endstop: 275
position_max: 275
homing_speed: 25```

They are the exact same motor with the exact same wiring (unless a crimp is wrong/bad on the Y some where)

[alpine silo]

Remove the ! From your stepper y and try it. All the ! Does is reverse the polarity having it turn one way instead of the other. Both x and y don't need the ! Pin cause then they'll be turning the same way and fighting each other if that makes sense?

[steady jay]

it doesnt buzz notrmal with or without the !

[alpine silo]

Ohhh okay sorry it was hard for me to hear. Did one of the plugs come loose from the board or motor? That’s the only thing I can think of if it’s the same wiring. Unless the cable itself is bad or a bad crimp like you said

Take the cable that’s plugged into x and plug it into the y motor and try stepper buzz X

It’ll rule out a faulty motor

[steady jay]

This is so wierd. I swapped cables and now i don't necessarily get diagonal movement, but I homed Y, end stop triggered and then it fought the other motor to move X to the home position

I think i'm going to try different board slots

[alpine silo]

Which board are you running and what slots are they in?

[patent holly]

it almost sound like your belt is caught in something

[steady jay]

maybe something was crossed in manufacturing

[steady jay]

I don't know what that would be other than the twilight zone

[alpine silo]

Wait if it fought the other motor that should be the dir pin. Did it fight for y or x?

[steady jay]

homing Y moved the gantry to y home and then tried to move the toolhead to X home

[alpine silo]

Okay try taking the ! Off of the x dir pin now. If not then it could be the cable

Since both motors technically work and you can move the toolhead around manually

[patent holly]

I believe it should home x first and then Y

[alpine silo]

Right but they clicked home y in the ui just to test it

I think

[steady jay]

So I'm using a BTT Octopus Max EZ v1.0. They are currently I have the left stepper (X) configured as Motor 2 and right stepper (Y) configured as Motor 1 ....... but I swapped cables so Left is plugged into M1 and Right is plugged into M2

[patent holly]

hmm I have X on motor 1 on my octopus max

[steady jay]

But I was homing just one axis at the time

[steady jay]

it was just how I ran the cable shrug

[alpine silo]

Do you have anything plugged into motor0? Or is there no motor0?

[steady jay]

No Mo

[alpine silo]

Jk there’s no motor0

[steady jay]

Just so we are all looking at the same thing

[alpine silo]

When you tried changing the ! Did it do anything different?

If it’s fighting the x axis now try taking the ! Off the x dir pin

[steady jay]

which one you want me to take it off of? m1 or m2

[patent holly]

try this https://docs.zerog.one/universal/corexy

[alpine silo]

M1 now if it’s still swapped. If you swap them back take it off of m2

[alpine silo]

Oooo this is cool I didn’t know this existed. @steady jay this may be worth using too

[steady jay]

M2 as X but connected to Y = !Dir and M1 as Y but connected to X = Dir;
RESULTS:
G28 X moves the gantry to the front - stopped by pressing the Y enstop.
G28 Y homes the gantry to correct X position, triggers X end stop and stops successfully.

M2 as X but connected to Y = Dir and M1 as Y but connected to X = Dir:
Change: removed ! from M2.
RESULTS:
G28 X moves the tool head to the 0 position and fights like hell to move the gantry to the Y home
G28 Y moves to the Y home location and then fights like hell to home X

https://tenor.com/view/really-bitch-annoyed-face-stare-whatever-kid-gif-17309831

[alpine silo]

Hmmm okay I’d swap the motor cables back then try using that tool Goldy linked

That’s so frustrating lol

[patent holly]

it really sounds like that your belt got stuck on something

or something with your wire

[alpine silo]

Whelp the tool says your original looks right 🙃. If you turn off the machine and move the toolhead around there’s no binding right?

[steady jay]

No binding.

[steady jay]

Just for you ….

[steady jay]

But no binding when they are on and supposedly engaged

[patent holly]

okay your belt looks good then its maybe the wire

[alpine silo]

For the second one it looks like it’s on the right track but whichever one has the x needs the dir flipped. Since the x is going the wrong way but y is going right way

[steady jay]

If there's any sass in my voice..... I'm just frustrated with this bonkers situation

[patent holly]

I know what you mean

[alpine silo]

No worries! I was frustrated too trying to figure out the dir pins for all 8 of my motors 🤦🏽‍♂️.

[steady jay]

I've not even started on Z!

[patent holly]

I dont even use the dir pins

[alpine silo]

Z shouldn’t be too hard thankfully! Just make sure they both turn the same way so if it goes up instead of down just add ! To both

[patent holly]

this is what I have

[steady jay]

you have the dir pins though.......

[alpine silo]

Yeah you have to use dir pins Goldy doesn’t have the directions inverted. Could try both without the !

[patent holly]

@steady jay if you switch the wires is the same motor fighting?

[steady jay]

Here's what I'm going to do. I have brand new cables that are 5' long. I am going to crimp them with dupont ends so that I can easily swap the wire configuration. I'll try with and without the ! on the Dir and come back later with my findings.

Get in nerds, we're making spreadsheets!

[alpine silo]

Good luck! You got this 😎

[alpine silo]

I have a shirt that says this I got from Microsoft when they first rolled out 365 🤣. The other one says Word Up and one says come to my office (with office logo) 🤣 I gotta find them idk where I put them

[steady jay]

I also said F-It and emailed BTT/BIQU support to explain their cryptic labeling 😇

[alpine silo]

Hopefully you hear back in a reasonable time! I bet if you mess with the dir pins enough it should work. If one axis work fine and the other binds then the binding one needs to be flipped. That’s how I did it until I got all 8 right lol

[steady jay]

Agreed. Either they come back or I brute force it. (hopefully)

[manic vector]

I've just always bruteforced it...

[alpine silo]

I feel like that last config we were on the right track. Y homed fine so flip x dir pin cause it went to 0 instead of 255 or whatever max is and then it should be good 😁

Same lol working in IT I always just have to try until I get it working

[steady jay]

Same my friend! It's all mentally encompassing..... I got a work report to work on right now and all I care about are stepper wires 😄

[alpine silo]

It really is lol. I feel that so much. During my build I was having to work on stuff and the entire time I'm thinking about my printer and what I need to do to finish it 🤣. Now it's just trying to figure out my issues with printing fast 😭🤣. Hoping to mess with it more today but we'll see how busy work is

[steady jay]

I've been in "build limbo" since April because of various pieces of my build took a while, then had surgery, then got sick, etc. etc. I just want to be built so then I can start tweaking print settings. At least then I can move my printer back into my office (away from my dining table) and have it right here to observe / work on / use.

[manic vector]

import itertools

colors = ["Red", "Green", "Blue", "Black"] # Replace by your stepper wire colors

permutations = list(itertools.permutations(colors))
for permutation in permutations:
    print(permutation)

That's python code that'll give you a list of all possible combinations to try

[steady jay]

Can i just slap that into my ssh session to my pi? I don't run python on my pc ( and honestly don't have much experience with it )

[manic vector]

Yeah you can

ssh to pi

[steady jay]

woohoo!

[manic vector]

python3, copy-paste it in and press return a few times

or create a file in the pi users home directory and python3 filename to make it easier to edit

[steady jay]

What's the deal with all the different versions of python going on in the rpi os?

[manic vector]

idk man

[alpine silo]

I feel that. You’re almost there and hopefully we’ll get it fixed today 😎. I gotta tweak settings or potentially get a new extruder lol

[alpine silo]

I think default it comes with python 2 which is old so we install python 3 for all the klipper stuff. From my understanding it should just be those two versions or even now it may just be python3. It’s very confusing though

[manic vector]

Actually there some major incompatibilities between python 2 and python 3, and/or in the libraries they come with, that is the reason most distributions specifically use python2 and python3.

Also keep at it! I'm sure that you'll be able to solve all issues and have an awesome printer to be super proud of 🙂

[steady jay]

I was working to tweak the script I put together for "automated updates" #1228757965981614154 message - and kept running into an issue where it was telling me that a python file was missing even though it was there. LOL

[thick holly]

As an alternative, I've been using this, https://github.com/fbeauKmi/update_klipper_and_mcus

🙂

[steady jay]

Ooo I'll have to check this out later. Thanks!!

But the "file not found" issue was intermittent. one moment it didn't work, then it would shrugs

[steady jay]

BEHOLD MY NERDLINESS!!!

[alpine silo]

Damn that’s way better than anything I could do in excel 🤣. Looks great!

[steady jay]

Thanks! I like to think of the "prettiness" of my tech as one of the ways (sometimes the only?) I can be artsy/creative in a world of 1s and 0s. But honestly, it just a way for me to log what I've done, what I've not done but want to do, and the results ..... because I can't keep certain things straight in my brain any more. Helps keep me consistent and as thorough as I want to be.

I use to price out various types of data connections for customers that my previous employer would do credit card processing for. I would forget to add things when I would create the initial quote (we did QA the numbers before they were presented). I would just be appalled by how much I'd forget. So I shoved myself through many excel / office classes. Then I started to do data/metric reporting with my current employer, so I got to expand upon my knowledge. I find myself now learning "Power BI" for Office so I can do dynamic reporting and be fancy

Buuuuuuuut this leads to anal retentiveness in how my documents look and then I wind up wasting time on that, but I feel like if it looks sloppy, then it detracts from the professionalness.

[alpine silo]

I feel that! I try to keep everything in my head and sometimes I forget a good chunk of stuff. Plus adhd doesn’t help 🤣.

Oooo I haven’t started powerbi yet but I’ve looked a little into it and power automate. I’m a 365 admin as one of my duties so I support the people that use it

[alpine silo]

I agree, my spreadsheets don’t look professional at all

[steady jay]

SAAAAAMMMMMMMMMEEEEEEEEE!!!!!!!! It's honestly starting to be a pattern that I'm seeing with my tech friends (and a lot of folks in this hobby honestly) - a lot of folks have ADHD. I was a late diagnosis (2023). and I'm still figuring out how to control it. But of course I'm also in this headspace where I'm like "Are there actually more instances of ADHD or because more folks know about it, there is less stigma around it, so more people are opening up to getting tested, and we are seeing that it's more of the norm than the exception and a greater amount of folks were just forced into situations previously where they became "high functioning" and thus masked their neuro spiciness so we didn't know it was actually more prevalent?" Like are our processed foods actually rotting away our brains like our grandparents / great grand parents said to us? Though I am really sure the pandemic and the surge in popularity of things like Facebook Reels, Instagram videos, TikToks, and YouTube shorts just caused us to loose our grip on our attention spans and the ability to retain information? Are our aluminum cans causing low level alzheimers like they warned in the 90s-ish and ADHD is the early stages of that erosion.

OMG Sorry! Squirrel!

That's hilarious - I was JUST opening up a page to see about an intro session on Power Automate & Power Apps. We did our "level 2" class of Power BI on Friday and I don't feel any more knowledgeable with it. The classes are only an hour and this dude flies through material, not explaining stuff very well or over explaining simplistic things .... and my brain just checks out. I guess I'll just learn it while mucking about trying to build something and googling answers ......... like I do with just about everything else in life. LOL

[steady jay]

Well friend, if you need help ever, reach out.

[alpine silo]

It’s funny cause is he had the same thought processes. I don’t use any social media except discord really. Part of me does feel like it has a lot to do with the internet but also all our foods. Who knows though 🤷🤣.

Yeah if I’m not engaged I’m mentally a million miles somewhere else. Usually thinking about my printers☠️

[alpine silo]

Thank you! I defintley will and if you ever need any tech help in general I got you 😎. I’m basically my family’s Google 🤣🤣🤣

[steady jay]

Same. My dad will call me and be like "my outlook is doing X - make it stop." I just sigh in frustration because he's like 4 states away and we don't have remote assistance set up for me to be able to work on his pc. I should probably look into that again while he doesn't have an issue. LOL

My husband will do the same to me, to which I just look at him and think "don't you have a Computer Science degree as well?" 🙄 I call BS.

[alpine silo]

I set my family up with teamviewer and showed them how to open it and read me the code 🤣🤣. Id definitely look into it.

Omg lol that's so funny 🤣 my girlfriend asks me for help but she's in insurance so she gets a pass lol

Hell even my coworkers in IT come to me for a ton of stuff it's like come on do your job 🤣🤣🤣

[steady jay]

Ohhh Thanks for the tip on Teamviewer. I'll look into that. Windows Remote Assist is a little clunky.

[alpine silo]

Yeah it is, teamviewer is nice cause they don't need an account it'll just give them a session code and password to give you

[alpine silo]

How did the dir pin testing go? Any luck?

[steady jay]

got side tracked with work and dinner. I'm starting it now

[alpine silo]

Good luck! I feel that I just had dinner myself and now gonna try and mess with mine some

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/doggo-dog-annoyed-pissed-no-gif-27062669

[patent holly]

uhm question did you put loctite on the pully on the motors?

[steady jay]

I don't remember

[alpine silo]

So did it work with the third one down? Also I didn’t put loctite on my motor pulleys until after I had all the rotation stuff done.

[alpine silo]

I think my extruder is a dud 😭🤣. Can’t seem to get good results with it at higher speeds which is crazy cause it’s the vzbot extruder

[steady jay]

Nope. they all grind. I even used a brand new set of wires.

[alpine silo]

Wth 😭😭. Your belts looked good too idk why it's not working.

[steady jay]

Maybe my "testing pigtail" is sub optimal, So I'll try a couple with just the wire and jst-xh connector. I wish I could get them to depin easier with my depinning tool :/

but that'll be later after "work".

[alpine silo]

Yeah possibly.

I just checked my wires and this is how they’re in the board. Idk if the max has the same pairings as the pro but maybe it’ll be helpful

a1 a2 b2 b1 left to right
a1 is red
a2 is blue
b2 is green
b1 is black

So mine are red blue green black from left to right

The pro is A1, A2, b2, b1 for left to right

The max ez is b2, a2, a1 , b1 left to right

[steady jay]

What are the colors of your stepper motor if you are looking at the motor with the gear shaft sticking up?

[steady jay]

I think my blue loctite went on vacation ..... not sure where my tube is. HAHAHA

[alpine silo]

I’ll have to grab a pic when I get home. I can grab a pic of my hybrid motors with the cables of the colors. Should be home in 2 hours or so

[steady jay]

Got a response last night from Biqu support. They asked for a video of what was wrong. 🤦‍♀️ So i sent them a video of my printer homing and grinding like a 90's music video

https://tenor.com/view/tupac-2pac-california-love-yo-rapping-gif-9250774

[alpine silo]

Omg 🤣. I completely forgot about it until I did a speedboat at 100k accel and had a grub screw go flying across the room 😅🤣

[steady jay]

That's amazing

[alpine silo]

Lmao hopefully they can help but I wouldn’t hold your breath. We’ll get it figured out 😎

[steady jay]

I know where my red loctite is though......... but ........ that muthafluffer ain't ever coming off then

[alpine silo]

I was like oh god wtf was that is my printer going to explode 🤣🤣

[alpine silo]

I cut mine too much and spilt it everywhere too 🤦🏽‍♂️. I only bought the blue one. Make it permanent at that point ☠️

This is the best pic I got right now but it really doesn’t help lol. Let me see if I have a better one

Edit: I don’t have a better one but I’ll take one when I get home

[sterile veldt]

Two Octopodes?... Octopi?... Octopuses...?

[alpine silo]

Idk what to call it 😭. I just say I’m running 2 octo pros. I guess technically it should be octopi right? 🤔🤣

[sterile veldt]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s166nC_hiZ0 😁

[alpine silo]

Hmm you learn something new every day. All are proper lol. I like octopodes it sounds cool.

Side note: English is hard

[steady jay]

Those steppers aren't going to be any help because they are hard wired. LOL

[alpine silo]

Yeah I have ones like yours on my hybrid setup. I’ll grab you a better pic when I get home 😁

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/checking-watch-chris-brander-ryan-reynolds-just-friends-would-you-look-at-the-time-gif-12693907534173761892

[alpine silo]

Gotta love late afternoon meetings 😭

[steady jay]

We got smooth motion now, but even though everything is labeled and pluged correctly, the printer is homing the wrong axis

[alpine silo]

So when you home x it homes y? Did you swap the spots on the board back from last time?

[steady jay]

yes and yes. I have the right side motor plugged into motor 1 that is labeled Y

[alpine silo]

Is the right one x or is it y im not sure lol. Could try swapping the labels and see if that fixes it? Does it move in the right direction?

[steady jay]

They move in the correct direction but on the wrong axis

[alpine silo]

Maybe swap the labels or the motor wires? Maybe they’re labeled incorrectly or backwards?

If x does y then your stepper_x is actually stepper_y

So I would just swap the labels in the config then try again

[patent holly]

try the site that I sent you before

[alpine silo]

I think it’s just mislabeling. Cause home x homes y instead and home y homes x so swapping names on the steppers should fix it

@steady jay someone else was having same thing and swapping labels fixed it

#mercury-chat message

[sterile veldt]

She's just missing the ! on one motor's dir_pin

[alpine silo]

I think it’s the labels. Home x homes y instead and vice versa

[sterile veldt]

I just looked at her config and the chart in the Klipper channel, it's just the !

She has it on one motor but not on the other

[alpine silo]

Ahh okay either way it’s a simple fix hopefully. I thought labels cause she says it’s the right direction just wrong axis.

[sterile veldt]

2nd pic, top row, inverted homing: #klipper message

[alpine silo]

Okay that makes sense. Thank you for clarifying

[steady jay]

WE HAVE SUCCESSFUL SMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOTH XY HOME!

https://tenor.com/view/christianbale-uh-americanpsycho-nod-agreed-gif-9105144771222081620

[steady jay]

End of the day recap:

• Finally got my stepper wiring figured out for all the steppers.
• Moved the setup back to the previously routed cables for the motors.
• Continued the Beacon setup. Finished the paper test and ran the auto calibration tool.
• Noticed stepper drivers were throwing comments about being too hot so I adjusted down the run current for all of them and put the driver fan back in. I had removed it to work on the motor wiring.
• enabled mcu temperature reading so I can keep an eye on it in the web interface. Hoping the drivers don’t keep throwing heat warnings

[steady jay]

Here’s some eye candy for this morning …. to push Christian Bale duck sound:0:1 face off my screen …. 👀

Man, those Disco on a Matchsticks put off some heat! Speaking of the one in the eBay behind my LCD.

[steady jay]

Yesterday Recap:

• Calculated the actual boundaries of my accessible build plate and adjusted the endstop positions (PITA!)
• Measured and updated bed mesh and z_tilt
• Completed cold and hot Beacon Calibration

I must say ...... trying to measure anything on the Y axis and seeing if it's level or in the right specifc spot is really a pain in the arse because the frame piece is at the same height ...... AND my part cooling ducts block most of my view if I raise up slightly above the bed to see. LOL I'd love an attachment that I could drop into my nozzle that nicely hangs down maybe an inch or so, that has a rounded tip so it could easily glide over the bed surface (or position it so that it's nano fractions away) so you could see where your damned nozzle actually is ....... liiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiike maybe a blunted nail... Hmmmmmmm..... * runs to the patent office *

[patent holly]

cold and hot Beacon Calibration? I went straight to contact

[steady jay]

I was following the doc on the beacon site to set it up. Step 6 says Calibrate Beacon and walks you through the steps, then at the end they are like ....

[patent holly]

whoops I totally skipped that

[steady jay]

and I thought it would have been nice to know that at the beginning because I would have lit it up on the first run

IDK ¯_(ツ)_/¯

I was reading over other points in the discord that talked about setting up beacon, and z-tilt, etc. and someone mentioned adding a soak gcode into their start print macro ........ it took forever to get up to 45C on the beacon coil being only 3mm away from the bed (plus the distance between the nozzle and the beacon) .... my thought was that every print would take forever to start

and I don't know if there's a command or proper way to do a heat soak, but my bed would stop heating after a while since I wasn't printing

[patent holly]

https://github.com/jontek2/A-better-print_start-macro I use this for the heatsoak

[alpine silo]

I adopted that macro as well it’s super nice

5 minute heat soak for abs stuff but for pla stuff I removed the heat soak cause I don’t need it

[patent holly]

same

[thick holly]

An alternative, https://github.com/YanceyA/BeaconPrinterTools/blob/main/Config/Print_start/Print_start.md

[steady jay]

These are great! Thanks guys!

how much does capitalization of letters matter in Klipper ?

[kind spade]

Alot

[steady jay]

I'm guessing that QGL isn't something we would use because we are 3 Zs / not 4?

[thick holly]

Correct, we use Z_TILT

#hydra-chat message

[steady jay]

Thanks! Had to ask b/c I’m not familiar with QGL. So I see how the author was intending that “z-tilt/qgl” to be an either or situation. 👍👍👍

Wonder if it would be beneficial to arch my cable strain support in the back forward a bit for the CPAP hose.

And I wonder about adding strain refried for the hose on the tool head side. I know there’s an orbitool mount the adds cable strain relief. Maybe I can mod something to add a spacer to tie the hose to….

[thick holly]

@steady jay I think there are a few already designed solutions on the VzBoT Discord.

[steady jay]

For which part? I hoped over there and there were no references for orbitool

[thick holly]

I can’t find the model now :/

[steady jay]

I have found my own solution!!!! Straight pins from my sewing kit!! It has a ball on the end and it’s tiny enough to dangle from the nozzle. So now I can find the exact points of what im looking for, like these of my bed or the location of my mini tanks!

Waaaaaaaaaaait ......... problem.............. they are metal .......... i have a magnet sheet. damn it

[steady jay]

🤔

I think Planny is a male ….

#AllLies

[steady jay]

Fixed it, I believe. I had my Z steppers set for a rotation distance of 8, when it should have been 2. I'm recalibrating beacon right now and will then test to see if dropping the z axis to 200 really measures 200, but that may be tomorrow. I'm running a bed mesh calibrate right now ........ beacon is feeling up every mm of the bed surface

👀

Yep, that definitely fixed it. But dropping the bed at any speed is kinda loud now…. :/

I wonder if I should be putting 256 for my micro steps instead of 16 for my BTT EZ2209 stepper drivers…..

Maybe this is why it’s so loud…(in comparison)

[cloud smelt]

no, keep as is. turn off interpolate and turn of stuealth chop

[steady jay]

Thanks. I believe I have both off already but I’ll double check.

[cloud smelt]

if it still makes the sound, can you send printer.cfg and send a vid of the sound?

[steady jay]

https://github.com/winningfaith81/Planny-Backup/blob/main/printer_data/config/printer.cfg

I turned off the printer for the night and am in bed. I’ll have to get the video of it tomorrow/later today.

[kind spade]

25 is way to fast for z

Try 8-12

[steady jay]

Okay, I updated the z homing speed to 11 from 25. This is what it sounds like now. Maybe it’s normal?

2 I have tr8x2 lead screws

[patent holly]

it sounds good

put this on printer limts
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100

[steady jay]

oh YEAH! This fixed it

[cloud smelt]

yeah keep max velocity at 10 😅

[kind spade]

I guess I should have added that was mainly for max velocity, and homing might be half that

I highly recomend reading all of the beacon docs yourself, vs just copy and pasting settings from someone else.

[steady jay]

I'm actually in the process of try to do that as I set up my beacon.

[steady jay]

I don't know what it means yet ... but this is my starter graph from setup & config.

[cyan field]

The spike looks pretty clean, that good. The second hump at at 115Hz is kinda big, your umbilical may contribute to that but that is probably why it is suggesting the 3hump (considered less good than the ZV or MZV). The part at the end is a problem, this is a Y test and that is showing somthing shaking in the x. I would run the Y test again and took for the tool head shaking side to side when it gets above 160Hz.

[cyan field]

Do you have an x graph?

[steady jay]

There are a lot of variables that could contribute to the vibrations. I did hear something rattle like a loose screw and washer. So I will check those. Also the table I'm on has a weak pedestal leg under neath the printer. So I'm sure that's probably contributing to it.

[cloud smelt]

try takingnit off

[steady jay]

I will be doing that shortly

Do either of you have a guide to read input shaper graphs? I saw someone mention it MONTHS ago, but I can't find my book mark

[cyan field]

Yeah, you could probably see during the X test, what ever is causing high frequency weirdness.

[cyan field]

This is the one I feel like I got the most out of.
https://youtu.be/M-yc_XM8sP4?si=CK7lqHzzJBJV-440

[steady jay]

Thank you so much!! I know nothing input shaping 😄

[steady jay]

mmmmm...... Priorities....

[steady jay]

OMG!!! Running my first print!!!!!

Hahaha need to check on my extruded settings and that my filament is seated fully. 😵‍💫

[cloud smelt]

did you try extruding before printing?

we couldnt narrow it down to whats the cause

[steady jay]

Nope. I completely forgot to do that actually. I’m also wondering if maybe I didn’t feed the filament in properly/completely.

[alpine silo]

I’d try manually extruding from mainsail and make sure the extruder rotates the right way. I had to flip the direction of mine cause it would retract when I clicked extrude

[short egret]

i was almost going to congratulate you 🤣

[steady jay]

But it's closer!

[short egret]

you are almost there 🙂

looking good. liking the Z logo on the toolhead

[steady jay]

I have melt!

it's seriously annoying that I can't issue other commands while I'm waiting on a heat soak

like turn on a fan

[steady jay]

I have squiggles!!!!

https://tenor.com/view/monty-python-and-the-holy-grail-gif-11362522537325047914

[short egret]

Woooohooooo congratulations! 🎊🎊💐💐🎉💐💐🎊

[steady jay]

hmmmm the console did throw a lot of "Unknown Command: G3" and "G2"

[alpine silo]

That’s gcode arcs in the slicer :). you can turn it off or add something to your klipper config.

https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#gcode_arcs

[steady jay]

Ahh thank you! I shall look this over. I used OrcaSlicer and I’m not familiar with that product at all.

But I do have the Zero G profiles loaded in

[alpine silo]

of course! yeah i think it's normally not needed. I have mine disabled but i may turn it back on and see if it improves anything. i haven't looked too much into that specific setting but if you have any other orca questions let me know i'm pretty familiar with it.

[steady jay]

“i think it's normally not needed”
Well shit … I was hoping it was why I was missing the arcs in the print 😵‍💫

[alpine silo]

I could be wrong! Try enabling it and see if it helps. Or disabling it in the slicer. I think it has to be either or. Like off in slicer and config or on for both. Mines turned off in both the config and slicer.

In slicer it’s under “quality” under “precision” it’s the third one down. Arc fitting

I’m gonna try enabling it after this benchy prints 😁

[steady jay]

Lol

[short egret]

its best to leave it off indeed

[alpine silo]

Okay cool I thought so but wasn’t 100% sure. Thank you for confirming 😁

[steady jay]

So gooey. Guess not ready for calibration tests in OrcaSlicer. Going to wash the bed again and put down some Magigoo …. Oh yeah, AND CLEAN THE DAMNED FILAMENT OFF MY NOZ! 🙄

[alpine silo]

May need to adjust your z offset your purge line looks like it’s too far away from the bed

[cloud smelt]

you need to adjust your z offset. this is in mainsail interface

[alpine silo]

can also run beacon_auto_calibrate with bed at print temp and it'll set the z offset. then babystep it during a print with mainsail interface

[steady jay]

i'm using the Zero G Purge from the community modifications. It's an adaptive purge that puts it nearer to your print.

[cloud smelt]

z offset is how far away your nozzle is to your printbed by default

its too far atm, and wont stick to the buildplate

[alpine silo]

Oh I know! I was just using it as reference for the z offset. Your nozzle isn’t close enough to the bed causing it not to stick

[cloud smelt]

you can adjust your z offset in your toolhead menu in mainsail]

[steady jay]

Oh I thought you meant ........ sorry I'm doing 4 things at once.

Here's the problem with this

[steady jay]

I can not issue any commands while I have a print going.

[cloud smelt]

you can for z offset

give it a try

press -0.05 and it will execute

but its small so youll have to do it a LOT to notice a change

[steady jay]

okay. I'll set up a first layer test and see if it will let me. any other commands I've tried to execute during a print have been like talking to the wall

[alpine silo]

Yeah once the print is done I’d do the beacon_auto_calibrate at bed temps. Save_config. Then do what Charlotte is saying to fine tune it.

[steady jay]

I have found that printer does become non-responsive if she sits there on and alone for a while as well

[alpine silo]

It’ll let you change that during the print. You won’t notice anything but the number will go up or down

[alpine silo]

Like the webpage? Mine sometimes has moonraker issues with it not connecting

[steady jay]

yeah the klipper instance. Like I'll tell it to turn a light off/on and it'll get the command in the console, I look to the tart in the corner and she's like

https://tenor.com/view/uhh-cat-meow-meowmeow-confused-gif-8057852975940592422

[steady jay]

okay So I tried the zoffset and hit the -0.05 so much it cancelled the print because it would have been "out of range"

[alpine silo]

In your printer.cfg change your position min for stepper z

Mines:

position_min: -4.0

[steady jay]

Is that "position_min"?

I don't have one defined I guess

[alpine silo]

Oh yeah it's formatted exactly how I pasted it. You can just copy and paste that and put it under your z. Just the one not all 3

[cloud smelt]

might be default 0

[steady jay]

This basically lets the hotend move past what it believes 0 to be, right?

[cloud smelt]

yes

[steady jay]

So I popped in this first layer square. Noticed it looked too high, so I lowered it by -0.005 for the passes in the blue box. It seemed too thin, so I raised it back up the same amount.

Less holes in the cheese during that seemingly thinner adjusted area!

[cloud smelt]

make sure to save these values for your next prints 😄

[steady jay]

Ruh-Roh ........... I think my jet engine, I mean, CPAP fan 👀 might be too strong??? I mean ...... I thought Planny was going to get some lift.

[steady jay]

Found my CPAP to be a tad bit too strong to leave it sitting as 100% in the slicer.

https://tenor.com/view/you-dont-say-frowning-coffee-gif-14597430

So i turned it down to min 5% to max 30% and we are going good so far at layer 3. I didn't realize that the speed was reduced so much for "solid infill" ..... that'll be adjusted shortly... LOL

[steady jay]

Deconstructing my print to understand what happened….

Seems that the diagonal lines don’t reach the edges/walls much. I wonder if there’s too much cooling on this PLA and I need hotter than this 200C nozzle. (Filament: Polymaker Polyterra PLA Sunset Orange)

[alpine silo]

How fast are you printing?

I run all my pla at 220 usually

[alpine silo]

What accels? You can try bumping the temp or printing a temp tower with those speed settings and see which temp looks the best

[alpine silo]

Hmm yeah that’s not crazy fast. 200c may be fine but I’d try 210 or 215 personally

See if it improves, if not. Then it may not be a temp issue

Did you calibrate rotation distance, flow rate, and all that jazz?

[steady jay]

I set the rotation distance for the Z, but xy still sitting at 40 from the base configs. I tried to do the flow rate calibration but I needed to be able to print something in order to tell which flow rate looks the best.

[alpine silo]

Oh sorry I meant rotation distance for the extruder

The rest will stay static it’s only the extruder one that needs to be calibrated. Basically it’s for making sure if you ask it to extrude 100mm it’ll actually extrude 100mm and not 95

https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/extruder_calibration.html

Here’s a solid guide for it

[steady jay]

YEP! that's the guide I was going to work through today actually

at least I'm headed the right way 😉

[alpine silo]

Awesome! Yeah go through that and by the end of it hopefully everything should be good 😎

[steady jay]

Side question ..... when I'm tightening my nozzle (WHILE IT"S HOT) the whole heat block turns when I am torque-ing it that last little bit. Is that normal?

https://tenor.com/view/skeptical-futurama-fry-hmmm-i-got-my-eyes-on-you-gif-17101711

[alpine silo]

It probably shouldn’t turn. Is it a rapido? I like to hold onto the heat block with a pair of pliers while I tighten the nozzle and you don’t have to tighten it too much. As long as it’s snug at printing temps should be good

[steady jay]

It's a Phaetus Dragonfly BMO

[alpine silo]

Ahh okay so yeah that screws into the heat block so it could be moving that possibly.

[steady jay]

I find that if I hold/touch my hotend with something metal for too long, Klipper throws an error that I can't connect to my Orbitoolhead board. I wonder if it;s because I have a beacon and it's low key doing it's induction thing ...... or there's a ninja short...

[alpine silo]

Probably beacon thing cause I’ve had that happen before

[steady jay]

coolio

[steady jay]

Working through the Ellis Print Tuning Guide.

• Extruder Calibration & Rotation Distance was spot on already.
• Build Surface Prep - Scrubbed that sucker within an inch of it's life.
• First Layer Squish - See picture above. Seems my sweet spot is about 0.025, between square #4 and #5 as labeled in the pic.

I have found that there is a line in my Print_Start gcode that says "Set_GCODE_OFFSET Z=....." The base Beacon config recommendation is to set this at 0.06. This is why my printer was always operating with a 0.06 Z offset. Who knew! LOL ugh.... So I have modified that to be 0.025. Tomorrow I'll print another set of squares, maybe have it start at 0.03mm and micro step it down to 0.02 to see how they all look. Then I'll move on to Pressure advance. I'm sure this will need correcting because I think I have ooze while the hotend is just sitting there ... being hot ...

[steady jay]

Found some huge snazzy tiles I’m going to triple up for my base to sit the printer on. If it doesn’t do the job, I was only out $5. 👍

Trying to decide if I want to glue them together or not….. might give them more strength???

[cloud smelt]

dont glue them. what you could do tho is design some brackets and screw them in

[steady jay]

Was talking with my dad and he thinks just one tile would be sufficient for my needs here just sitting on the table with the yoga mat between. Going to try that and see how it goes. I've got two more that I can sit on top of the other one if I need more weight to the base.

[cloud smelt]

you need to anchor your printer for the best results

otherwise, ye 1 tile + foam

[steady jay]

The Chronicles of Planny - Nebula 255/M1.1/Hydra

[steady jay]

You're saying I need to anchor my printer to the wall?!

[cloud smelt]

you dont, but some ppl do for better resonances

its like precurssor level

i just thoughts thats what ur referencing

[steady jay]

lol

no insta-benchies here.

[steady jay]

Planny made it “home”!

Look at this beautiful tile!

Okay well it looks nicer in person

[steady jay]

Just used the Teamviewer online tonight with my dad cause he's got an issue with signing into Outlook and it was fantastic to use!! Too bad it doesn't fix the fact that Outlook (new) has a log in problem right now with pop/imap email accounts. I want to rip my hair out. LOL any way. Thank you for this recommendation!

[alpine silo]

Ayeeee of course! Glad it worked out well!

Yeah new outlook is garbage and idk why Microsoft is pushing it so hard 😭

[limber nacelle]

Am I understanding the wago and wago mount purpose correctly in that it's a junction in the middle of a wire run in case anything needs to be serviced?

also, kinda sad that reading this saga was the first i've heard of the E34M1.

[cloud smelt]

really? its a super popular toolhead here

[sterile veldt]

Probably why I find it funny that I've never used it. I started with the EVA2.4 then moved to modified Xol on one machine and now I have the original Xol and CNC VZ/ZeroG printhead on my other machines. If I cave and build a pro size Merc, I might have to try it.

[cloud smelt]

what other printers do you have? you have a lot of mercs lol

[sterile veldt]

3 Mercs (1 stock frame, 2 Nebulas), 2 E3NGs (in progress), 1 Prusa MK3 (gift from friend that's being upgraded to MK4S). Elegoo Mars 4 Pro, Elegoo Mars 2 Pro... so far. 😅

Oh and I have a TronXY X5SA here but it's not actually mine. I'm upgrading it for a friend but trying to convince him to let me convert it into a VZbot. Regardless, doesn't count unless this friend decides to give me the printer because they themselves got it for free and admittedly know nothing about 3D printers. 😅

[cloud smelt]

damn thats a lot of printers

do you have shelves for them?

[steady jay]

Not necessarily the entire purpose, but yes. A lot use them to safely split a connection. so you have one power wire, but you want to send that power to two things. You use a 3 port WAGO and put all three wires into it: the power, object 1, and object 2.

[steady jay]

@sterile veldt - And if not, the friends over on DLLPDF are (jokingly) talking about a group buy for extrusions to build workbenches in their off topic channel. 🤣

[cloud smelt]

ive been thinking abt that too. might try to make a modular generated one

[sterile veldt]

😅

I'm still amazed by that KS. The amount of backers is ridiculous.

[sterile veldt]

I have 3 on one end of my main workbench (it's L-shaped and long), I have some shelving I originally bought for Thing 1 and my resin printers but changed it to the future spots for the completed E3NGs. It also has most of my filament on top. Need to find a place for the MK3/MK4S. I really want to build a Voron Phoenix or Ratrig V-Core 4 500.

UNLESS I can be convinced to follow through with my plans for the M³rc... 😅

[steady jay]

Do either of you know if any of the filament at MicroCenter is worth trying to work with? I need to print a support for my Orbitool board because the cable keeps wiggling loose and killing prints - and I have no abs/asa on hand

[sterile veldt]

Girl, Thing 2 is almost entirely Inland Glow in the Dark ABS from MC.

[steady jay]

Now THERE"S a build log name! "The M³rc"

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/wheelie-rollin-they-see-me-rollin-jeep-kid-gif-21057802

[sterile veldt]

I believe somewhere I read that Inland is MicroCenter's rebranded eSun or Polymaker filament. Not sure if that is still the case but I like what I've used so far which is the Glow in the dark and sparkly purple Inland filaments. The sparkly purple was suspiciously similar to my Polymaker Galaxy Purple ABS... 🤔

[kind spade]

its not rebranded, but made by them.

the abs that I have from inland that is "polymaker" has been different colors, less vibrant

[steady jay]

🤣 🤣 🤣 🤣 It’s a turned toenail clipper !!!

[sterile veldt]

https://tenor.com/view/bruh-gif-17563483835665589874

[steady jay]

Ooohhhhh!! Is that unicorn what thing 3 is printed in?

[steady jay]

Is this the material that needs to be dried before using? I can’t remember

Can I just say that I’m excited at the prospect of finally being able to print ABS???

[steady jay]

Score!

@cloud smelt - Found a paint job to match part of Planny!!

[sterile veldt]

Yes! That's it!

[sterile veldt]

No, it was the PETG that needed to be dried. I usually suggest drying PETG before printing.

[kind spade]

I suggest drying all material before printing, exception being pla if its new.

[steady jay]

Orbitool wants to keep disconnecting while I print? Fine. I’ll just chain you to your brother!

[steady jay]

This post from FB proves your point.

[sterile veldt]

How hot is it getting?

[steady jay]

I think I saw 60C at one point. But I left it sit for two hours when we went to MC, started a print when we got home and it disconnected. That’s when I lashed down that port and cable to the filament sensor. I then did a test print of the updated top panel corner piece and orbitool cable strain relief …. Had zero issues. Well with disconnecting that is. I had one or two z layer shifts that I need to work out.

[steady jay]

Dumb questions ....... how often do I need to flash my boards? Is it every time the Klipper version updates? Do I need to compile and flash my Beacon and my Orbitool/toolhead board along with my MCU?
EDIT - Seems my Beacon DOES update via Moonraker when there's an update from them, not Klipper dependent and I DO have it setup in my Moonraker.conf to do so

[sterile veldt]

Are you getting an error saying that you need to update Beacon?

[steady jay]

Nope. Just thinking ahead. I have a script that I run to update my MCU and wondered if I needed to add my other boards

[sterile veldt]

I pretty much just flash the board when Klipper goes red. If the disparity between the versions on the MCU and the Orbitool gets too great, Klipper will let you know it's flashy-flash time.

[steady jay]

I talked with the mod over on the Klipper server and had my board definitions added to a pull request for the board definitions file within Klipper so that I don't have to keep adding it when I want to flash my sd card 😄

[steady jay]

Well. I'm still having issues with communication failures to my Orbitool board when I touch my printer. I've been working with @sterile veldt to troubleshoot. I've opened an issue over on the GitHub for the tool board. Here's the link if you want to see my problem.

[steady jay]

I sent a message in to KB-3D (@jovial mesa - Could you look at order UOJZNEVOF, pretty plz?) to see if they heard anything or had any thoughts about the board doing wierd things. Meanwhile ...... I'm going to continue with calibrations and I'll just make sure to wear protection before I physically touch her again.

https://tenor.com/view/bogdan-wearing-gloves-putting-gloves-getting-gloves-gloves-gif-15682907

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/excited-dog-happy-gif-13976730166168585553

[steady jay]

After some discussions, I am going to modify some ground wires to see if it makes a difference with the communication loss to the orbitool board. I did find that the connection to the connector for the cable came off of the board. I think this may also have been part of the trouble. I used my high temp solder gun and reconnected it. If I mucked it up, at least I'm not out anything. Except..... I'll have to wait until they release the updated boards to replace it.

[steady jay]

Alrighty! I removed the secondary grounding screw from the frame and used that wago port to run a wire to the main ground wago on the right. I moved the bed ground to this wago as well. I added "biting washers / washers with teeth" to the frame ground screw and ....... heavy sigh .... scratched off some powder coat to ensure a good connection to the frame. I do have a filtered IEC plug on the way but I accidently shipped it to my dad's house 3 states away. 💀 So that'll be here this weekend-ish. I did also unscrew the Orbitool USB board from the frame in the event I might be interrupting the comms with whatever grounding issue I was having. Planny boots up and I got her to heat up the nozzle a tad. So Maybe the Orbitool board still works.

[steady jay]

OMG!!!! GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!

[thick holly]

https://tenor.com/view/the-office-gif-26388528

[cloud smelt]

YESSSSS!!!!!

[steady jay]

The Chronicles of Planny - 2.1.234 - Nebula 255/M1.1/Hydra

[short egret]

congratulations!!!!

[steady jay]

Thank you!!!

[manic vector]

https://tenor.com/view/kintsu-azero-whooop-gif-8262962027388279125

[steady jay]

After the saga of the Orbitool board, a friend printed out this Orbitool Fan Mount Mod and the corresponding Turbiter cooling mount that works with the Orbitool board. Thank you @sterile veldt ! Got it installed on Planny, which was a pain in the 🍑 with the CPAP hose, beacon cable (just because I already had it locked into a wiring sleeve), and the E34M1 mount for the extruder. It sticks up to support the orbiter motor, thus colliding with the turbiter cover. So I trimmed the cover and it fits flush now.

Still had some issues with the bed bench pressing the gantry earlier this week. I compared Beacon configs with Warped and it seems there might be some things I need to add to it and then try again. It's been a very weird couple of weeks ....

[sterile veldt]

https://tenor.com/view/carmelo-anthony-pics-or-it-didnt-gif-12560940

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/patience-virtue-mummy-themummy-the-gif-5019253

The clearance between the fan and the Orbitool board is so small, I am really glad that I had these extra fan dust covers that I used elsewhere in the build so that the wires would invade the fan's personal space and possibly get shaved off....

[sterile veldt]

https://tenor.com/view/frozen2-patience-impatient-waiting-sigh-gif-15991431

[sterile veldt]

This thing looks so ridiculously complex, I LOVE IT!

[steady jay]

It may look complex but it’s not. It is convoluted though. Lol

[steady jay]

The frustrating part is that the screws that go into the back of fan needs to be like 22mm long. So I used 25mm and put a nut behind the two pieces of the fan holder (to hold it together)

But I used the black screws you sent for the front of the extruder because I didn’t realize I was adding four screws. Lol

[sterile veldt]

Oh, I didn't send you 22mm screws? I have some that are specifically 22mm 😫

[steady jay]

oh! were they!? sh!t. You sent me two black Socket head screws and two black button head screws. I wasn't sure and I assumed they were for the front. It's not a big deal because honestly, that butt crack of a space between the board and the fan needed to be larger

[steady jay]

Took the Orbitool parts off. Put a different Turbiter fan in with longer wires. Covered those wires and the fan wires. 🤓 Added a blue standoff to the fan mount which gave me enough freedom to load wires and not worry they are going to be hit by fan blades. I took the fan filters off because I think they were blocking airflow to the Orbitool board. Which now makes me question the use of them every where else in my build …. Like all.the.damn.fans. ‘Tis a problem for another day.

I also noticed that even with the dust cover off, the fan mount doesn’t close completely in the opposite corner. I took the opportunity to feed a zip tie through the mounting screw hole of the fan itself, wrap it around the mount pieces and have a side anchor point for my cpap hose.

Also while I was putting the new Turbiter fan in, I found that there’s no good place to route the wire for that fan. So I used an electric nail file and carefully filed a groove into the slot where the fan intake is. It fits great and I don’t have to worry about it being squished between the Turbiter and the back of the Orbitool mount.

It looks pretty slick. I must say that the Turbiter model is brittle as all get out. I am not a fan of that.

[steady jay]

Well crap … the fan mount is now too far back. It bumps into the upright cable support and the two motors in the back. I swapped out my cable tower, but it’s slightly too tall and still kind hits it. When my printer homes X and then homes Y the tool head gets pushed to the left before the gantry triggers the Y end stop. So I think I need to shave down my blue stand offs a smidge

[cloud smelt]

you could also do a custom homing sequence

home x, go to center, home y

[steady jay]

That would be great. how do I tell it to do that?

[cloud smelt]

https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html#homing_override

here are some examples aswell
https://www.reddit.com/r/klippers/comments/16q6lzs/homing_override_for_individual_axes/

[steady jay]

Thank you for the references!

[steady jay]

Couldn’t figure out how to work the custom homing. Took off the standoffs and added three hex nuts instead. I have 5mm standoffs coming. I also decided to swap out all of my 4010 fans with noctura fans. The ones I have just aren’t moving a lot of air. So I’d rather buy new fans than burn out my parts. I also bought a noctura fan for my psu cause that sucker is still loud after the first swap. Also going to remove the dust covers because I think they inhibit air flow. 🙄

But we’re slinging plastic again!

[steady jay]

Sorry for the dupes of this…. Finally got a video of the bed “bench pressing” the gantry. I do a beacon_poke and get a latency number of 2. I posted this over to the Annex help board.

[kind spade]

It's flexing your entire toolhead, that's not normal

Maybe a config error or missed a step

[steady jay]

I went through that entire doc repository over on their website. I also compared my config to a working config that doesn't do this. This is my printer.cfg file on github. I do have an open help ticket over on the Annex Engineering Discord as well. Waiting for a smarter person than I to review it.

[steady jay]

Weeeeeee! Replaced my 4010 fans with some better Noctura ones. Started to do a temp tower for this ABS and discovered that I have a blockage. Don't think I had a long enough bowden tube and when the filament was retracted, it curled up around in the heat brake and solidified. However, I did also find out that the tube was bent. It happened either when I was homing X and the right side of my build plate was too high and it scraped the plate or it happened slowly over time as the Beacon kept doing the thing where the bed kept crashing into the nozzle. My money is on either at this point. So I'm waiting for a new hotend to come in.

Mean while ............ diamond painting!

[cloud smelt]

maybe the noctuas are too weak?

[steady jay]

I was thinking the opposite!

[steady jay]

I think the biggest issue was that my bowden tube inside was not long enough by far, it created a lip and the filament caught on the "ledge" inside and just started curling around. it was quite amazing to see.

[cloud smelt]

how much cfm do they push?

also, are they all tach?

[steady jay]

60.1 CMPH They start as 3 pin Tach capable, but some slots I don't have the ability to run that. My HotEnd Fan IS tach though

They are these fans - Noctura NF-A4x10 FLX

Not having the tach on the fans cooling the stepper motors and the Orbitool board is fine with me.

[cloud smelt]

do you mean CFM?

thats not possible...

for a 4010

[steady jay]

I have the Hotend fan set up as a temperature fan to turn on when the extruder is enabled, but with this set up, it doesn't allow me to control the fan speed on the fly. I have to put it in the config.

[cloud smelt]

ohhh

cubic meters per hour

[steady jay]

wrong fan

[cloud smelt]

I wish that was the standard

but still, Im used to CFM

[steady jay]

Sorry the first specs were for the fan I have for the power supply. LOL 😅

[cloud smelt]

4.828 cfm isnt the worst

[steady jay]

Apparently, that converts to 4.82652 CFM

Damn! beat me to it

[cloud smelt]

if you have time, could you place the fan in front of a piece of paper for reference? Maybe I might look into them myself for my electronics enclosure on my taz

[steady jay]

Sure. Let me see what I can do....

[steady jay]

Just got a Phaetus Rapido Plus 2 hotend in to replace my Phaetus Dragonfly BMO after I bent the heatbreak tube. Having some issues with the E34M1 mount. Using the Rapido UHF hot end mount. If I position the hotend with the wires exiting the back, it collides with the edge of the front bracket. If I rotate it CW one screw space, the wires stick out the front, however it seems they can tuck nicely around the side of the whole toolhead. I'm hesitant with either option because it bends the heater and thermistor wires. There's a warning label in the box that says "When disassembling, please clamp the brass nut instead of the wire to avoid damage." - which leads me to wonder how fragile that heater wire is .... or if it is just that they don't want you to grab on to the wire and yank because you'll decouple it from the nut.... 🤔 Dunno, I over worry about things.

It also seems that I could take the UHF adapter off and just do HF mode, which makes the setup shorter. Regardless, the horns I have seem to still be pointed at the nozzle in some manner. I think I can print ABS with out part cooling and be okay long enough to calibrate and then print the UHF horns. Not sure if I'll do Kracken horns again or not. Maybe the tri-horns.

However, I wonder how much the length difference will matter for the beacon ....... I need to measure the full length of both assembled hotends to see the difference....

[steady jay]

Tried printing a temp tower over the weekend and it came right off the build plate. Need to check my squish.

[patent holly]

Ì think you forgot the Silicon sock

[steady jay]

lol it was on when I actually went to print.

[steady jay]

Updates on my Beacon Saga .........

1. Changed back to proximity mode - did not see a recurrence of the gantry pushing issue but did not stay in that mode long enough to be definitive.
2. Switched back to contact mode and added a RPi USB 3.0 externally power hub to run all of the USB items into my RPi5 . Still seeing gantry push.
3. Contact Mode + USB hub + Brand New Beacon Cable - Gantry push is still present but only on the initial approach to home the Z axis. The additional two to three scans don't do it. This even happened right after a reboot of the hardware, which didn't happen before.
4. Updated the [auto_cal_speed] from 3.0 default to 2.0. I am surprisingly having much more luck with this thus far! If it starts pushing the gantry again, I may try adjusting the [speed] config down from the default 5 to 4 next.

Was printing some flow calibrations and had some motor skipping/layer shifting. Found my upper belts were not as tight, but also realized they both needed to be tighter. Raised the tension of both belts. Also did a resonance test and adjusted to mzv @ 55.4Hz on X and mzv@ 39.4Hz on Y. Set max_accel to 4600. X came back as recommended to <= 9000mm/sec^2 and Y came back as recommended to <= 4600mm/sec^2. I realized that I didn't set my accel after my first resonance test.

[steady jay]

Had about enought of this crap from my beacon. Still getting pushes. I've ordered a replacement.

[patent holly]

? whats going on

[steady jay]

When I home in Contact mode the bed pushes up the gantry. I've reconfigured it. bought a new cable. installed a powered RPI USB 3.0 hub and connected into the RPI5 via USB 3.0 port. and adjusted the auto_cal_speed config. The last seemed to do the most good.

[cloud smelt]

hmm... maybe someone with more experience can look over your config?

precurssor, turtle, and goldy I think all have it

[steady jay]

####   Probe - Beacon
########################################################
## Hardware: 
## - Annex Hardware - Beacon - RevH (10/28/2024)
########################################################

[beacon]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Beacon_Beacon_RevH_FF95F39D5157355957202020FF0F2239-if00
x_offset: 0
y_offset: 40.44          ## 4/27/25 - Updated Y offset to 43.15mm based on E34M1 Kraken Beacon Horns specification; was 40.44mm from manual measurement??

default_model_name: default
mesh_main_direction: x
mesh_runs: 2

speed: 5.0
lift_speed: 5.0
backlash_comp: 0.00376        ## Config from WarpedScale had this set to 0.00376; Ran BEACON_ESTIMATE_BACKLASH on 04/06/2025 and set to 0.00458

## >>-----> ## Auto-Calibration Configs
autocal_speed: 2.0
autocal_accel: 100
autocal_retract_dist: 2.0
autocal_retract_speed: 5.0
autocal_sample_count: 3
autocal_tolerance: 0.008
autocal_max_retries: 5

trigger_distance: 3.0
trigger_dive_threshold: 2.5
trigger_hysteresis: 0.006

z_settling_time: 5

cal_nozzle_z: 0.1
cal_floor: 0.2
cal_ceil: 5.0
cal_speed: 1.0
cal_move_speed: 100.0

accel_scale: 16g
accel_axes_map: -x, -y, z

## >>-----> ## Beacon Probe=Contact Settings (Full Contact Workflow)
#-Off-4-Contact-# default_probe_method: proximity
default_probe_method: proximity          #-OFF-4-PROX-# 
home_method: contact                   #-OFF-4-PROX-# 
home_method_when_homed: proximity      #-OFF-4-PROX-# 
home_autocalibrate: unhomed            #-OFF-4-PROX-# 
## Enable the [safe_z_home] section and Disable the Safe Z Home Functionality section when turning off CONTACT mode

## >>-----> ## Beacon CONTACT - Safe Z Home Functionality
contact_max_hotend_temperature: 250    #-OFF-4-PROX-#
home_xy_position: 134.5, 128.5         #-OFF-4-PROX-#
home_z_hop: 5                          #-OFF-4-PROX-#
home_z_hop_speed: 30                   #-OFF-4-PROX-#
home_xy_move_speed: 200                #-OFF-4-PROX-#
home_y_before_x: False                 #-OFF-4-PROX-#```

[cloud smelt]

@grim kindle could you take a look to see if anything looks wrong?

[steady jay]

Turtle looked at my comments previously and said it was a config issue. But even when I put the config in that matches a known working config from another user, it still buggers out.

[cloud smelt]

dont use configs from other users

these are issues that can arise. every person has a different machine

[steady jay]

I know and I usually don't. What I meant was, I had the same lines of code included. and anything that needed to be calibrated for my specifig machine was.

[cloud smelt]

I really cant comment on this past that. This is completely out of the scope of my knowledge 😅
best thing you can do from here ig is check the docs or wait?,,,

[steady jay]

No worries. I've got another one coming to rule out the unit itself being faulty.

[cloud smelt]

https://tenor.com/view/spanky-throwing-money-cash-money-our-gang-little-rascals-gif-7602783295867595867

[steady jay]

Exactly

[patent holly]

hmm why do you have so much in your config. I have only this in my config

[short egret]

Beacon made a couple of updates in the config which makes it a big bigger. Check their website.

[patent holly]

I think I leave mine like this it works fine for me

[short egret]

If it works it works 👌

[steady jay]

Long over due updates .........

• BEACON ISSUE
  I swapped out my E34M1 ducts for UHF ones so I could use that mod on my rapido H/E and it seemed to clear some of the bed crashing issues, but not all. Swapping for a new cable didn't seem to take me home either. It wasn't until I ripped out the umbilical to remove the old beacon cable and officially seat the new cable (to hopefully clear some vibrations) and I decided that since I had her open I would just replace the Beacon with the new one I bought ........ Just for shits & giggles to see if it was truly the board. Not one iota of bed crashing since.

• LAYER SHIFTING
  Still having layer shifting issues. Installed Shaketune. Belt Comparison graph was fuqed. I checked and tightened belts. The bottom belt wasn't tight enough. Still shifting. Then noticed my XY motors (standard Fabreeko Merc Kit ones on TMC2209s) were not running the same current. So made them the same at 1.3A. Still had shifting. Did some digging on the server and found that they should probably be running at 1.5, so I've modified that. Went to do a test print and came across the next issue .......

• Rapido 2 Heating Issues
  So there's a known issue with Rapido's heat block design where the thermistor does not read temps appropriately. They redesigned the block to use a glass/ceramic bead shoved into a crevas on the side. West3D has replacements you can buy (because I purchased mine second hand). I plopped that sucker in and it was okay for a while then started having issues with not heating properly or reading insane temps. Worked with West3D and they think I have a short in the wire. So they mailed me a replacement. As a work around, I took the heat block apart to repaste (used the Slice Boron Nitrate stuff as opposed to the paste they send with it) and reseat the thermistor. It's been working good for several weeks now, but I'm starting to experience the issue again last night and this morning. I got new paste since my boron stuff kinda seems like a sus consistency right now.

So today I'm going to whip out the toolhead to check all the connections and make sure everything is seated properly. Install the new therm after I put JST-xh connector on it, but I might make a pigtail to change it from molex to JST-xh so I don't mess the stock cable up ..... in case that was the problem with the first therm. 🙄

I'm trying to decide if I want to take the belts off to inspect them while I'm doing the rest of this stuff or not. If I change too much stuff then I won't know what the fix/real issue was. I have noticed that there is a clicking noise now since replacing the rapido heatblock. Seems like it would be a sound you'd hear when things are heating up / cooling off ....... I can't ever record the noise on video. I think it's coming from the left side of the printer, but again, I can't pin point it because it's not constant nor consistent. 🤷‍♀️ #IsThisWorthIt?

[sterile veldt]

Is that it? Just BEACON ISSUE, that is all. Go back to work.

[steady jay]

Bruh. Im in the middle of updating the comment on my laptop, but I had to go handle something

[steady jay]

There you go. Update complete. Nothing you don't know already. 😄

In fact, I'm half considering renaming my printer Thing 4 because of all the help you've given me. 🤣

Oh and I put a clacky door together with my serial # on it. Can’t wait to install it!

[sterile veldt]

https://tenor.com/view/thats-it-pretty-good-its-taken-sam-raimi-pretty-good-gif-16344027

It's not, but just in case. 🤣

[steady jay]

lol

[sterile veldt]

I do love this door. no lie. 😍

[steady jay]

I'm really hoping the resin ideas I have will work ....... just waiting for DLLPDF to make and send me the scrap test pieces to try things out first ........ because it's hard to undo resin.

I need to find a mod for my LCD panel to drop it below the extrusion so the door can open. 😅 My belly says to move it to a different location. 😇

[sterile veldt]

You're still using a BTT Pi TFT70, yes? I wonder if the mount I'm using on the HDMI7 can be converted to the TFT70. I'll send you a pic of it if you are interested.

[cloud smelt]

@steady jay youre doing fridge door? 👀

[steady jay]

Yep! A Clicky Clack Voron Door Mod. I ordered the frames and plastic panel from DLLPDF and had them engrave my serial # and their logo into the panel. 🥰

In other news ......... Planny is tripping balls ....... https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1393648824274260171

[steady jay]

• BUILD PLATE / HEATED BED TEMP
  I found that my Fabreeko 275 bed with their E2E heater was not heating the same on left as compared to the right. I opened a support ticket and we found that my heater was one of the few last year that had one of the white wires and the red wire soldered in the wrong places - thus they were swapped. We tested and found the correct pairs, changed the hook up and everything was great. But then I found that the temp of the bed was not translating up to build plate (using their 275x275 textured PEI sheet) as fast as I thought it would. The bed heats up to 110C pretty decently but the build surface has to bake for 10 minutes before ABS will sufficient adhere. I built it into my Print_Start macro and it's much better. It just sucks having to bake that long.

I don't even have to bake that long in the summer Texas sun to be a lobster. 🦞

[steady jay]

Soooo solved for the new XY MOTORS STRUGGLING/GRINDING issue I posted here: https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1393648824274260171 - Turned out something happened with one of the cables. Putting new ones in resolved issue. I did not put the cables in with sleeves....... in the words of @sterile veldt .......

https://tenor.com/view/nobody-got-time-for-that-a-intnobody-got-time-for-that-no-time-for-that-nope-no-gif-10243842

Back to my regularly scheduled issues ...............

[steady jay]

https://tenor.com/view/maury-well-welp-funny-nod-gif-7427834453665079625

[steady jay]

• CPAP BITES THE DUST 🪭
  While printing some shrinkage calibration prints, noticed that the CPAP fan didn't turn on during the heat up section of my print start macro until half way through. It then didn't turn on at all during the subsequent prints. I am running ABS right now, so the part cooling isn't as important as it doesn't turn on during the prints at all. I checked continuity through the two comm boards and the wires and tried a different port on the MCU. So I ordered a replacement one from Fabreeko. I was outside the return/warranty period on BIQU's site.

I did notice that there's a red light on the set up and it's blinking when I'm runing the printer. I looked through the product manual and did not see any reference to a red light. Google searches haven't pulled up anything either. 🤔

[grim kindle]

When the CPAP board flashes red, that means its active but waiting for an input signal

It turns off once it gets that signal and starts spinning

If theres no light flashing after bootup, then thats a dead board or bad wiring

But it should start flashing the moment you flip the power switch

Theres no documentation because the boards vary between vendors and theres no standard used

But they all should behave the same regardless

[steady jay]

Ugh. Thank you for that clarification.

[grim kindle]

If you need help, let me know, I do run a couple of them from different vendors

[steady jay]

Thanks! I am running the BIQU Universal Turbo Kit. It doesn't respond at all when I request it. It was working fine until it gave up the ghost on the 17th. I've not changed anything in regard to it prior to it failing. I tried a new comm cable. no change. I tried a new port on the MCU. no change. I checked continuity through the connection points on the sub boards and the cables themselves, but I couldn't tell you what the readings were, just that there were readings. The "waiting to go" light works. So I figured the motor just died. My replacement will be here on Thursday.

[grim kindle]

Whats your config look like?

If its flashing its getting power, so thats fine

When you tell it to spin, does the light turn off?

[grim kindle]

And you checked the Signal cable was in the signal pin on that port right? Not the gnd

[steady jay]

Checked the pin and corrected it on the MCU. Either way, when I tell the cpap to turn on it does not and the blinky light is still blinking

[grim kindle]

Then the board isnt recieving a signal

Can you check continuity on both ends of your signal cable?

Make sure a signals getting through

[steady jay]

i get numbers not OL

[grim kindle]

What board are you running?

Mainbaord

[steady jay]

Main Board: BTT Octopus Max EZ v1.0

[grim kindle]

Wait, do you also have the breakout board?

So 2 input wires?

Or is that a BTT only thing?

[steady jay]

This is how I have it configured and it was working previously

[steady jay]

Replaced the CPAP setup and it works again. I did take time to line the fliter cap and back of the motor with some car anti-vibration material. It adds to the blue hue and I think it's quieter?

Then later I was printing with Inland ABS Black and it kept clogging my hotend after each print and definitely during ironing "top surfaces" that occurred in the middle of prints. While reassembling the UHF module on the Rapido and doing the last little bit of tightening while hot, I managed to wrench it in half and broke off the bulk piece while the screw part stayed in the heatbreak. So....... had to wait for a new heatbreak and UHF module. I stopped printing in that filament.

Started calibrating with Ambrosia Filament ASA ...... but I'm still getting horrible layer shifting AND this filament is throwing debris on the build plate. I'm guessing it cools way too fast. While trying to troubleshoot this I keep getting temp errors on Stepper_x. I dropped the run_current from 1.41 to 1.39 and was testing. Still shifting. The bed sounds heavy and clunky, so it makes me wonder if there's something in the movement of this axis that isn't as smooth as it should be.

I decided to grab at low hanging fruit and decided to try out the BTT EZ5160 RGB stepper drivers on my BTT Octopus MAX EZ v 1.0 mcu ........ There is a damned issue with communicating over the SPI bus because it's shared with the LCD, SD Card, and the TMC drivers. There was a fix work around from 2023 but either Klipper or BTT did something and now you have to set up the config based on the Hardware SPI rather than the software SPI. But still ......... neither work. #klipper message

I'm waiting to see if @sterile veldt can get his to work on his Octo MAX EZ board this weekend. If not, I'll just get a replacement 2209 to replace the one that keeps throwing the temp warning.

[steady jay]

The noise is not the nozzle scraping the print.