Red Beta frame - 9mm Heavy Metal???

[bronze spade]

Are you going to do any kits at some point? Cool if not, I will wait if you are though.

[zealous gyro]

woooo really cool!!! 😎

[next wyvern]

Ya. He probably going to catch up on other things. I'm sure this took time.
Testing to

[woeful yoke]

Woah woah I see some printed parts?!

[lofty cargo]

Yea the plastic is just to gap it. Will still be strong. Some call this “ice cream sandwich” style lol

[woeful yoke]

Maybe I’ll copper electroplate the print

Add some color to my build 😂

[buoyant pebble]

[woeful yoke]

https://tenor.com/view/im-in-gif-8554249452926903742

[halcyon bear]

What even is that?

[covert swallow]

Heater, use it as a chamber heater

[halcyon bear]

Gocha, thanks

[woeful yoke]

It’s to heat up my SS enclosure

[glad trellis]

metal hydra when?

[buoyant pebble]

I need to finish other projects before I get into that

[woeful yoke]

😩

https://tenor.com/view/the-hangover-humor-laughs-gif-23091886

[zealous gyro]

mannn. i want that tooooo. on the project list!!!

[buoyant pebble]

I was told that style is bad

So have to order another

[zealous gyro]

heard the same thing. too dangerous.

[buoyant pebble]

Melty nylon mount

And leaking ac

[zealous gyro]

I use a small 20 euro heater from amazon on my other merc. works quite well but have to plug it in manually to the outlet

can plug it into a smart outlet. when it reads the printer KW going under 15W it can shut off. using Home Assistant

like this.. this is the merc running now.

[glad trellis]

15kW? 15000 Watts? or am I completely misunderstanding

[zealous gyro]

15 watts. excuse me🤣

[glad trellis]

got scared there for a little bit 😛

[glad trellis]

@buoyant pebble could you measure the diameter of the umbilical I'll be ordering some sleeving for my other build and since I got CAN on the Merc I don't have a damn clue how big the sleeve needs to be

[covert swallow]

10 or 13mm is what I used. If it’s just a can umbilical 10mm should be good.

[glad trellis]

thanks

[buoyant pebble]

Yeah 10-13 works for a full set of wires. 8 is enough of its just can and beacon

[buoyant pebble]

Making it a little less pretty....

[halcyon bear]

Man that toolhead,

[vapid rivet]

Whats different?

[buoyant pebble]

Did you look at the picture?

[vapid rivet]

Yeah

Something with the gantry?

[buoyant pebble]

nope

[vapid rivet]

Ohhhhh the insulation 🤦‍♂️

[buoyant pebble]

[hexed hornet]

Did you get this setup and installed? How did you end up wiring it? Through an SSR?

[buoyant pebble]

no, not yet

I was told this model is not the safest, though the specs seem like it should be fine

I think I will still give it a try, though from reviews the fan needs to be moved away about 10mm

letting it heat soak with the added insulation to see what kind of temps I can get with just passive heat.

the nozzle is 20mm off the bed

beacon is reading almost 78c, hotend has not been turned on, and has heated up to 60c just sitting 20mm off the bed

the chamber thermistor is behind the bed in the back of the printer.

Not sure why the chamber thermistor is lagging behind so much, maybe thats just what the air is reading when its not sitting over the hot bed?

[hexed hornet]

Have you looked into possibly adding fans beneath/around the bed heater to help circulate air? I dunno if the Hydra implementation would even support a design like that.

[buoyant pebble]

turned on part cooling, that seems to be helping

[hexed hornet]

Might be wishful thinking haha.

[buoyant pebble]

I might play with some fans under the bed, just to see what is posible

Can test that as well as a heater.

[hexed hornet]

What's the difference between the heater bed and bed heat pad temps? Do you have thermistors on both sides of the bed?

[buoyant pebble]

I have a m3 tapped hole in the back edge of the bed, with a threaded thermistor installed in it

I use that as the actual control

the heat pad will over shoot a fair bit

I had to reduce my power to 80% to prevent the heater pad from hitting its thermal safety limit of 150c and shutting down.

the thermal fuse of course is no where near its limit

[hexed hornet]

I assume it also helps to tell when the bed is fully saturated with heat (reaching to the edge of the bed)?

[buoyant pebble]

55c seems to be its max temp right now

Yeah, as when the heat pad first hits 110c the actual bed might only be at 80c

which might not be hot enough for your first layer

if you heat soak, its less of an issue

[halcyon bear]

My passive "chamber" also caps out at around 51-53c

[buoyant pebble]

Beacon RevH was finally swapped in, so I can run input shapers when ever I want.

This was with both Delta fans running at 59% as well.

no fans, but SQV set to 10

[halcyon bear]

👀

[buoyant pebble]

It did hit 60c, took awhile though.

[vapid rivet]

https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIomBmH do u think this would be enough as a chamber heater?

I think it might be a bit too small lol

Oh sorry meant to post that in general😅

[covert swallow]

Mine takes around 45 to 50 minutes to get to 60c

So not a quick heat up that's for sure

[buoyant pebble]

Forgot to post this picture in here

and it does hit 60-61c during printing now, though I need to do something about the door... It pops open in the top and bottom corners on the handle side. I stuck a pile of magnets on those corners which did fix it for now.

Also ordered some of this high temp heat shield stuff to cover the insulation... mainly for looks

seems to have a goldish color, which I think will look good against the red frame and black parts

[lofty cargo]

Basalt weave?

[buoyant pebble]

Yup

[fringe bough]

I prefer the house design

[zealous gyro]

this looks slick

arent you using Dibond plates?

[buoyant pebble]

It got delayed till Saturday, but I won't have time until the weekend to install it anyways

Yeah

[zealous gyro]

was under the impression that Diibond would be enough. assumptions eh

[buoyant pebble]

High temp 3m vhb to stick the insulation to the panels

Maybe if it was thicker

3mm doesn't do much

The outside of the panels get warm even with the added insulation

[zealous gyro]

ah yeah then the heat dissipates trough the panels. well, better than plastic

oh by the way. been meaning to ask. that front door handle. do you have the STL with the letters in it for two color printing?

[buoyant pebble]

No, I can try to add those at some point.

[zealous gyro]

ah check. so you printed on the bambu 😉

[buoyant pebble]

Merc

Glued the letters in

[zealous gyro]

ohhhh. yeah that file is not available yet 🙂

[buoyant pebble]

You can just grab the cad

Extrude the letters

That's how I did it

[zealous gyro]

I did not think if that. will do that! thanks for the tip

[cinder creek]

I think I did the same thing for the plus.

[plush prairie]

Beta frame looks fantastic. I've been running the ZANDVE enclosure by vengeful because it seemed like a cheaper option and more appealing since it isnt a full frame rebuild, however im wondering if i should switch to the beta frame. whats your estimate on the cost of converting from a reg frame?

[buoyant pebble]

frame was $250, panels were a mix of ones I ordered and ones I cut, so hard to put a proper price on panels.

I have a co2 laser that can handle all of the 5 pro panels

[plush prairie]

Gosh idk what I was expecting but somewhere around 300 with the panels but I guess that was a long shot. I’ll have to look into it though for sure though

[buoyant pebble]

more options will be available at some point

[covert swallow]

I’m around $300 for frame and panels on a pro. Fabreeko has very good pricing on the panels set.

[hardy schooner]

@zealous gyro

[zealous gyro]

Wsup 😊

[hardy schooner]

@zealous gyro sorry wake up fumble 🤗

[late basin]

What is VHB tape?

Never mind found it

[glad trellis]

double sided tape

whoops too late

[next wyvern]

VHS I know. What's a B

[buoyant pebble]

Very high bond

[buoyant pebble]

Ordered the ratrig bearings, probably won't improve anything. But I wanted to try them

[naive hearth]

https://tenor.com/view/mr-rogers-nightmare-clown-gif-5401671

[buoyant pebble]

Hush, go back to your corner and let me be silly

[woeful yoke]

https://tenor.com/view/write-that-down-taking-notes-school-universities-university-gif-17937210

[naive hearth]

https://tenor.com/view/nope-no-way-gif-24547692

[zealous gyro]

https://tenor.com/view/pedro-monkey-puppet-meme-awkward-gif-7980124317492828268

[honest void]

Carbon fibre looking stuff hmm

[lofty cargo]

It’s basalt strand made into a weave.

Similar stuff to exhaust wrap

[buoyant pebble]

It to forever to ship... just got it the other day finally

[buoyant pebble]

Started swapping it the bearings. I'll pull the Stepper mounts tomorrow night.

[naive hearth]

Wow that toolhead looks cool

What is it?

[buoyant pebble]

It's called takeoff, because you have to take everything off to work on it

[naive hearth]

That's a cool name

Can I put it on my ender 3?

[covert swallow]

Comparison is going to be interesting

[lofty cargo]

You probs need to ask in armchair /s

[red pilot]

https://tenor.com/view/loki-laufey-son-avengers-chitauri-you-think-you-know-pain-gif-14206846

Dual spliced heater life

[glad trellis]

doesn't sound like a good thing to do in cold days

[orchid falcon]

Does one have a version with a Goliath?

[naive hearth]

Yea I just haven't tested Goliath so I've not released the cad.

Actually I did

https://github.com/Kizime123/Takeoff-Toolhead/blob/main/Files/FDM/Takeoff V2.1 Goliath FDM Ducts.stl

[buoyant pebble]

Still needs a hotend fan mount doesn't it?

[naive hearth]

Idk kek

The heatbreak honestly might be fine

DK runs 1 conduction on his k1 and it worked fine

[buoyant pebble]

Dk needs a new name with danger klipper being a thing and called dk

[lofty cargo]

Is that where you have your chamber thermistor normally?

[eternal tundra]

where can i find the files for the door hinges?

[mild falcon]

You'll need to join the beta, #1128770268240814240

[buoyant pebble]

I don't really have a normal spot. That's just is current location. I might add more to compare data across a few locations though.

[next wyvern]

You use terminal blocks?
If so how many?

[woven shore]

@buoyant pebble ok so Ive made myself familiar with this delicious looking build, but did you spray the extrusions or anodise?

[naive hearth]

Dllpdf anodized them

[glad trellis]

thought it was powdercoated

[naive hearth]

Ahhhhhhh

Wrong word yee

I'm on no sleep

It's powdercoated

[glad trellis]

you're not the only one 😆

[halcyon bear]

Real

[woven shore]

Oh deammmm, I'm currently in the process of spraying my extrusions, definitely not as durable as powder or even but still handles 260c and looks good

[woven shore]

@buoyant pebble given that I want to go the enclosed heated chamber route like yours, what did you use for your tool board and have you had issues cooling it so far?

And what cable have you used?

[buoyant pebble]

I do not use canboards

Also do not have a chamber heater

Ptfe wire from Remington

[woven shore]

Oh for some reason I thought it was heated, what does your enclosure get to max?

[buoyant pebble]

70ish

[azure coyote]

Hey, which LED-Mounts did you use? Like the angle

[buoyant pebble]

Got some new parts on the way, one of which is a modified takeoff toolhead.

[uncut jasper]

oo your going to stop using the vz toolhead or was that plus version of your mercury one

[buoyant pebble]

vz is on my black merc

I have 3 mercs

[uncut jasper]

your making me jealous

[buoyant pebble]

5 plus hasnt run in awhile though

[buoyant pebble]

Test assembly, need to do more finish work

That was a tiny slm part, kface mount for the laser cut bracket

[buoyant pebble]

Test fitting things

The metal gantry spacers measure 2.55 to 2.58mm each, hand filing them down to 2.5mm

[next wyvern]

What is this magic?

You have a mill?

[buoyant pebble]

Yes but it's not working yet

I modified the files and ordered new parts

[cinder creek]

Is there a dxf file for these?

[buoyant pebble]

Not yet, but they do require filing them down to 2.5mm thick

I want to finish testing them Before I share

[cinder creek]

What did you get these made in? So far the only material I'm seeing on SCS that is 2.5mm or close is 304 SS.

[buoyant pebble]

5000 series

.100in

[cinder creek]

Oh I see, thank you. 👍

[buoyant pebble]

Goal is to get this printer back online this weekend and make sure all the new test parts work well. Then share files after I confirm they work properly

Probably changing to many things at once...

All new xy rails, new gantry spacers, new toolhead rev, and some other parts

But not a single part that let's be use my new heatset tool

[torn dust]

Turtle have you been involved in the early design decision with mercury to put the gantry on top and not inside aka ratrig style?

apart from the obvious one - preserving max buildspace, I always thought it would be mechanically beneficial to have the towers lowered and the Y-rails moved to the inner faces as well and rotate them 90 deg. that way the belts wouldnt be out in the open and the motor mounts could be mounted into a corner belt tensioners would be an issue

e.g like that, I wonder what was the reason the mercury put it all on top and if I go down a rabbithole of issues when I think about changing mine

[torn dust]

OK I found one - the belt path, wonder how ratrig solved that, I know they have only one end on the front of the x gantry, the other on the back but the outer loop still needs to go though the gantry somewhere, must be going through the X-joint

[cinder creek]

Why not just build a VZbot, then?

[terse osprey]

I was thinking the same thing..

[torn dust]

I'll have a look, never looked at vzbot in detail to be honest

[torn dust]

you're right, my mock looks like a vzbot now 😄

[red pilot]

Merc on top, VZ on sides, Voron on bottom

They all different

[uncut jasper]

nice too bad the extruder on it

[buoyant pebble]

yeah I knew it would be mostly covered, but part of burgos design intent for the extruder plates was to have cat ears

so this felt like the appropriate engraving option

I need to grind/file down the belt clips, I changed some values and the old ones no longer fit.

[buoyant pebble]

It's printing again

[random lark]

is it about time to change that insulation @buoyant pebble

[buoyant pebble]

Too many projects lol

[random lark]

[lofty cargo]

New linear rails?

[buoyant pebble]

Yeah, a premium rail that fabreeko will be selling soon

[woeful yoke]

Will this rail be available in all black 👀

[buoyant pebble]

No

None of the premium rails do

[woeful yoke]

Alright fine I’m im down

https://tenor.com/view/ill-take-one-get-buy-grab-have-gif-15761696

[cinder creek]

About how much Z do you gain with those SLM Hydra arms?

[buoyant pebble]

20mm

[cinder creek]

https://tenor.com/view/the-avengers-marvel-robert-downey-jr-tony-stark-iron-man-gif-17244283

[buoyant pebble]

Probably going to make a few tweaks

Try to figure out a clean safety stop for the carriage

[woeful yoke]

I will hit you up in a few months once I get my finances back in order 😂

[buoyant pebble]

I will not be offering these myself, but will share the files so others can order them

[vapid rivet]

Whats the aprox cost of the slm parts?

[buoyant pebble]

$100 shipped from In3dtech

[vapid rivet]

Not bad

[buoyant pebble]

5000 series aluminum, so they could bend it

[vapid rivet]

I NEED THAT

It looks soo good

[uncut jasper]

ooooo nice

[red pilot]

I got some pretty screws for that 😉

[woven shore]

Oh boi, so that part could be lasered at least

[buoyant pebble]

I wasn't thinking when I installed the fans yesterday...I had them backwards. This was after flipping then around, showing how much easier u can work on the toolhead with this setup

[woeful yoke]

I pray the price is anywhere near that in Canada lmao

[buoyant pebble]

I cannot control your conversion rate 🤣

[woeful yoke]

LOOL not even that. Prices are just so high here

Make an exception for me if the prices is egregiously high 😅

[buoyant pebble]

I will not be offering these, to much money and the only service I could add is tapping

[torn dust]

You could add stickers

[buoyant pebble]

Redoing my insulation panels. Cleaner cuts a d tape job this time, and using super77 spray adhesive.

Though I don't have enough spray glue for all 3 panels

[buoyant pebble]

First panel done

[uncut jasper]

ooo nice

[atomic herald]

@buoyant pebble what camera is that you got there?

[buoyant pebble]

A older arducam night vision model which they have since changed.

Lukeslab still sells the older version

[atomic herald]

sweet ty

[hexed hornet]

Mind sharing your webcam mount?

[buoyant pebble]

I'll try to get the files together soon for that

Insulation is finished again. Much cleaner all around this time

Time to start tuning again after I get back from walking blue

[zealous gyro]

dang... robust build my man... even the hydra arms are metal.. pretty cool build. wonder what Chamber temps you can achieve now

[uncut jasper]

even the motor mounts of the hydra are metal

[zealous gyro]

damnnn 😯

thats sweet

[zealous gyro]

ah i see it now

pretty cool

[uncut jasper]

I wonder when turtle going to sell it to us

[zealous gyro]

or send the cad files of the extra mounts 🤭

I am averaging at 53.6 chamber temps. with a small extra heater. wonder how Turtles one is doing with all that insulation

[uncut jasper]

same but without insulation

[buoyant pebble]

Going to try to upload the files this weekend. I did make soon updates the other night

And my chamber run around 65c, have seen 70 a few times

[zealous gyro]

oeff that would mess up the EBB lol. gues that would exceed the 80C limit

[buoyant pebble]

No can here

[zealous gyro]

I just found an issue that I had for ages with CAN. It would shutdown for no apparent reason after a couple hours. seems i had the traffic set way to high and dropped traffic that seem to retransmit and after a couple hours filled and overloaded the buffer. simple fix in the can0 file saved the EBB from being gutted. already have the wiring harnes ready for the hotend haha🤣

[uncut jasper]

?

[zealous gyro]

txqueuelen value was set on 1024 for some reason in the can0 text file. Took al long time to figure that one out. Should be on 128. For some reason the isse became very apparent when printing abs. Never printed abs on the nebula only on my other merc so I never digged deep into the issue because with pla the issue came and went and was certain it was some wiring issue.

[uncut jasper]

lol

I just copy the lines from the klipper documentation

[zealous gyro]

I did too. Normally when this value is off it is on 10. I have no clue why it would be at that value. Anyways fixed now. I was 👌 close to tossing the ebb36

[zealous gyro]

Yep that was my issue. Problem is that ebb can communication loss that it generates is too generic. Lucky I found it after extensive searching and troubleshooting. Fyi I found the issue after seeing the log and seeing the byte_retransmit increasing incremental. Interesting how this stuff works and how a small setting can have such a great effect on the printer.

[zealous gyro]

Now I know why it was at that value of 1024. Didn't know that thanks

Anyways, back to the main topic. @buoyant pebble why would you need to be at 65 70? 50 55 would be enough for abs not to warp right?

[zealous gyro]

ugh issue came back. that was the final straw. gutting the ebb

[hexed hornet]

Could switch over to the Nitehawk 36 if you want to get rid of CAN entirely.

[zealous gyro]

Thanks for the tip but think i'm good here. another thing that can break. tried a toolhead board now, not trying it again. my other merc is still going strong without it. and frankly, dont see the benifit other than some extra wiring that you dont have

[cinder creek]

You could always go distro board like pancake board or carabiner

[uncut jasper]

hmm weird are your cables okay?

[zealous gyro]

Oldskool haha😜.. To be honest. An ebb or other toolhead board is always a risk when you print fast. Turtle is not touching it for a reason either.

Already have the umbilical ready 🤣. Will make some connectors in the back of the cpap shelf for easy replacement if needed.

[zealous gyro]

Yeah triple checked. It might still be an undervoltage issue on the x and y, which I can see in the log. Could effect can as it is very sensitive. Had my run current set a bit too high I think.

Now have to figure out how to revert CAN lol. Installed katapult on the mainboard, should make it easier.

[buoyant pebble]

I did the can thing years ago, I don't love the form factor and wiring that comes with them. Too many compromises, and I found that I do not change stuff as often as I thought I would. And when I do, it's not that much more work to splice stuff in.

[zealous gyro]

I have come to the same conclusion. Not only that. With high speed printing the chances that one of the connectors slightly comes looses and loses connection intermittently is high. Especially the CAN connector.

[zealous gyro]

By by ebb😅

[zealous gyro]

argggg forgot that the SKR eZ board doesnt have an extra motor output if you dont use CAN lol haha. So ok I will try one more time and redo the entire cable and see what happens.

[torn dust]

it definitly adds complexity to the system for little advantage when only used on the toolhead. I have everything on CAN bus, my toolhead, my edm scanner, my tmc5160 for corexy and my mmu unit.
I can now flash firmware to all of them with a single command which is cool

Took a lot to really make it stable, right cables, right connectors, right termination, right can controller, right software setup - a lot has to go right to have a stable bus.

Since all of this is a hobby for me and I enjoy the software and electronics side of it just as much, I am really happy with it but I understand that many dont like to fiddle that much and just build and use a printer 😄

[torn dust]

a neat cable tree definitly has charme as well 🙂

[hexed hornet]

Did you see that one of the CAN settings was recently updated to a new standard?

#1218292658246783026 message

[torn dust]

havent seen that yet, thanks for the heads-up. I've had no issues with 1024 but that's a reason to look up what it actually does precisely 🙂

[zealous gyro]

haha thanks!!

[zealous gyro]

it leaves room for too much traffic in the que which can result in package loss

[torn dust]

I believe the issue is delay rather than loss. I've read that when the network is overwhelmed by a high volume of packets, a larger buffer helps prevent packet loss. However, buffering introduces delay, which is exactly what we want to avoid in Klipper - it can trigger the infamous 'timer too close' shutdown error.

[zealous gyro]

yes and that delay is what causes the loss of transmit if I explain properly. changes are that you get bytes_retransmit to increase incremental which does not end is high. it will fill the buffer and then shutdown giving an mcu comms error

seen it happen allot

[torn dust]

I've had this a lot when I was still on the Waveshare CANHat, I never understood why exactly but after trying the U2C (and creating physical distance between AC lines and canbus cables) all the issues went away

[zealous gyro]

I have now seperated the canbus cable as well away from motor cables and all other power. lets see what that does. will try a long print tomorrow

[random lark]

keep in mind canbus is tricky naturally. throw in low quality parts and its a losing recipe.

[buoyant pebble]

So trying something that's probably dumb, though I think it will work well...

Overkill cantilever z, no adjustment or kinematics. Just rigidity and overkill, not practical as it's over $300 in parts and sheet metal.

Should have the rest of the parts next week

[next wyvern]

Not dumb. Just won't be able to adjust bed level, unless I'm not seeing knobs

[buoyant pebble]

Shim it level once

Hoping with how over built it is, it will just hold level

[naive hearth]

For Splenda I betcha I could get it to like 100bucks

[buoyant pebble]

Would be hard to package off you wanted to stay with the hgr to rails and 1605 ballscrew 🤣

[light tide]

I bet this or something similar would be a great solution in the Mini Merc.

[buoyant pebble]

Tore it down and started installing what I can.

That back steel plate was not easy to install with how big and heavy it is, and had to line up all the holes while holding the plate up since I didn't feel like making enough room on the workbench to lay it on the back for this step.

[light tide]

Yeah that's chonky. How thick is the back plate?

[buoyant pebble]

3mm steel

[rigid torrent]

i wonder how much that weighs

[buoyant pebble]

3850 grams or 8.5lbs

[rigid torrent]

oh thats not as bad as I thought

[buoyant pebble]

I wanted a really solid surface for the rails

and having the back plate tie all of the extrusions together felt like the best method for thata

will have to make a custom rear skirt, and a new deck panel

then I need to either extend the skirts down, or cut a hole in the bottom panel

will probably just cut a hole for the z stepper to start with

[rigid torrent]

probs better resonances too

[rare idol]

🧐 I really like this idea. I will take parts CNC'd to fit together and be rigid over hand-assembled and squared stuff with printed plastic. Is the idea of one stepper that it can't get out of sync with any others?

[buoyant pebble]

Hoping if it's rigid enough, I will not need z tilt and just have a smoother z in general.

If it moves more than expected, I can always weld some parts

[rare idol]

I like the simplicity

[zealous gyro]

danggg that build is going to be heavy duty..

[buoyant pebble]

Cut a quick plate to hold the carriages to the ballnut while I wait for the rest of the parts.

I didn't feel like adding rail stops on the bottom.

[red pilot]

I was about to say, damn, thats some clear steel XD

[buoyant pebble]

Lol

Just acrylic to hold it in place while I wait

[cinder creek]

So beefy! I love it (and so glad I don't have a pro sized Merc to even consider this if you released the files 😅 )

[buoyant pebble]

Depending on results I might look at doing it for the plus 🤣

[cinder creek]

https://tenor.com/view/bastard-south-park-kyle-gif-6079478

[halcyon bear]

Looks insane🔥

[buoyant pebble]

Should have a motor coupler that fits tonight... The first one I ordered was too long to fit, and I didn't want to space the motor further away

And the m6 hardware that I need for the bearing mounts

They are currently held in with my screws

[halcyon bear]

Oh yeah do you not need a beefy motor to keep all that?

[buoyant pebble]

Nema23

[buoyant pebble]

Was testing z at 30mm/s

Then sent the first test print with z hops set to 30mm/s and 500 accel, the driver didn't like that 🤣

Dropped it to 15mm/s and back to 100 accel.

And the most recent bed mesh, this is after a heat soak.

The bed was leveled with metal shims, and then final tightened with the bed at 100c.

So far it looks like I can get away without running any kinematics.

[buoyant pebble]

Looking good so far

Printer lighting which shows every artifact.... Zero z banding, just some minor pa issues and changes in cooling between features

And under normal lighting

[buoyant pebble]

WIll be converting my black 255 merc as well, really happy with how this worked

[blissful flax]

That's awesome!

[woeful yoke]

To the new $400 Z?

[normal monolith]

Man your stepper motors are LOUD! Which ones are on AB?

My classified steppers are wayy quieter than that at almost any speed and 48v. Those are crazy lol

[zealous gyro]

Mine sound similar. 48v 5160T Plus's

[buoyant pebble]

Z is loud, xy are quieter than the classifieds

2504s, 48v

on xyz

but z is a nema23 now

also I think the video just makes it sound louder than it really is

[normal monolith]

That might be the case. Also the enclosure probably makes it worse too.

[buoyant pebble]

just nothing else for the camera mic to pick up for sound

[normal monolith]

I really like the classifieds a lot. I have zero complaints and iv been running them at 45000 accell and 300mm/s printing no problem. I can definitely push them more but I don't need to.

[zealous gyro]

@buoyant pebble what material did you use as isolation on the panels?

[buoyant pebble]

polyiso or something

[zealous gyro]

i'll have a look thanks

[buoyant pebble]

litte higher range this time at 0.195, but most of the mesh is really flat. Just keep getting a dip on the left side. I need to check if thats in the bed, or maybe I am just running the beacon a tad to close to the left edge?

[buoyant pebble]

Ran a few speed benchy test prints last night. First one was around 9 minutes. Second had to much part cooling for the settings and the heater couldn't keep up... Third was just under 7 minutes and still looks pretty decent.

https://youtu.be/HAKOVWg25Eo?si=Y2ojSk3E_O3tw26M

Picture of the 7 minute benchy

I clearly need to go faster

And this was the 9 minute benchy

[wispy kite]

I might be missing something but should this BOM for the 9mm say 4 Pulleys? Looking in the CAD an I'm only seeing 4.

[buoyant pebble]

need to take the flanges off of another pair after dehubbing the one set.

[wispy kite]

On that note, what was the reason behind switching from an idler to a live shaft config?

[soft viper]

Which motors do you use, since you mentioned them in other post? 🙂

Also, what toolhead is that and which extruder? I read hotend is Chube, or am i wrong?

[halcyon bear]

Toolhead is takeoff, I think the extruder is a lancer? And chube

[buoyant pebble]

Yup

[soft viper]

Looked into it...

https://tenor.com/view/money-gif-23395392

[buoyant pebble]

Pretty much lol

[halcyon bear]

Takeoff itself is cheap, chube isn't

[soft viper]

How much did SLS parts cost?

[buoyant pebble]

$50 for the toolhead

But the complete toolhead setup with fans, extruder, Chube, and beacon is over 600

I've also ordered 4 variations of that SLM toolhead

[soft viper]

Does it ''Brrrrrr''? 😄 For that amount of money I surely hope so...

[rigid torrent]

from the looks of it lol #1218292658246783026 message

[polar cliff]

Turtle, You say we need to dehub one set of pulleys. can we just buy a non hubbed 10mm pulley instead?

[buoyant pebble]

I've only tested with dehubbed pulleys, you're on your own if you try anything else

[polar cliff]

Ok, for the 6 bucks I'll give it a crack. I bought some hubbed pulleys from Ali, and they are one piece, so yeah. I'll buy some and find out. I'll let you know. PS Thanks for the facepalm moment, regarding the printed bit.

[buoyant pebble]

I doubt they are one piece

they are just hard to press apart

[naive hearth]

Me/ panzar

[buoyant pebble]

Installed carbonara last weekend, currently working on on swapping to 9mm edpm belts and swapping out to an updated takeoff.

Also ordered updated cantilever z parts, and decided to Tig weld the frame. Going to paint it before install this time.

[naive hearth]

oh thats what that pic was before lmfao

[buoyant pebble]

Yeah

Curing the paint for both frames in the printer

[woeful yoke]

https://tenor.com/view/spongebob-patrick-star-noted-notes-gif-17474838830648097856

Get into welding too, understood

[buoyant pebble]

Lol

Not sure if it will help. But doesn't hurt

Installed the painted parts on my black Merc last night, the red paint I think needs more time to fully cure

[woeful yoke]

Theoretically it would be more rigid no?

[buoyant pebble]

It should be yes

[woeful yoke]

Unless you got bad bad welds. It wont be worse

[buoyant pebble]

But enough to matter? Hard to say

[woeful yoke]

Bad welds are critically weak but it’s not like there’s a lot of force on the Y lmao

Like how much load does it actually bear?

[buoyant pebble]

I don't see those welds seeing much load at all

[buoyant pebble]

Installed the new cantliever frame in the red merc, just finished leveling the bed.

Going to work on cleaning up the toolhead wiring a bit next

and probably swap panels this weekend, along with new PIR and gold heat shield.

Ohh also swapping out the skirts, feet, and bottom panel... have a solid aluminum bottom panel waiting to be installed, because it was to cheap not to order

[rare idol]

IIRC that fan underneath the bed is a chamber heater?

[buoyant pebble]

Just a fan

But it helps hat the chamber by using the bed heat

[rare idol]

Ah okay, that's what I was thinking. Nice.

[buoyant pebble]

Between that and the insulation, I often see chamber temps of 65-75c

[buoyant pebble]

New aluminum panels are on, y backers finally installed, and gold heat shield this round.

I also upgraded my driver cooling fan, I was using some 3010s which were really loud and not just enough...

Well last April I had ordered some Delta 4015 fans by mistake... And they have just sat in a parts bin ever since. I looked up there specs again, and they looked like they would be perfect for driver cooling.

14 cfm
33.5db
6300rpm

Modified my top mounted fan bracket and fired up the laser cutter. Going to redo it in black, I happened to have clear already in the machine ready to cut .

Super quiet though, and if it runs cool I might use this on my other two mercs as well.

[rotund osprey]

What lighting kit is that?

[buoyant pebble]

That was some cheap Amazon led strips, but they were fairly dim.

Just switched to daylight xxl sticks from xr bunker works.

Also cleaned up the wiring a bit

[rotund osprey]

I have a bunch of 3 wire 24v COB LED ribbon so I'll just use that and control it with klipper. Just need to print or buy a angle mount for it

[buoyant pebble]

Yeah my mounts would not work for that style