Manta M8P/CB1/EBB36 with CANbus setup

[thorn nacelle]

Ooof hopefully that is all i need… imma need to document the sheeeet out of this one

[echo linden]

It’s not that bad. Links are up top.

[wicked kettle]

i have a question. trying to get can setup on my manta and ebb. i have run through it a few times and i have katapult on my manta as well. if you dont how do you update your manta with klipper? love the write up and since i havent gotten it to work yet im going to try yours. you have exactly the same setup as i do. i get to the point where i search for the uuid of the ebb and get nothing when all other flashes work succesfully.

[echo linden]

Ok. So manta gets klipper only. No katapult. The ebb gets katapult. Katapult allows you to flash klipper to the ebb over can, Eliminates the need for DFU mode. @wicked kettle

[wicked kettle]

so how do you update klipper on the manta then? doesnt it need katapult to update via can for the manta or am i just not understanding. ill have to remove katapult from the manta.

[echo linden]

Since the CB1 is directly connected to the manta and in order for programming to work the Manta will be in DFU mode, and should be the only device in DFU at the time, it will flash it to the Manta.

[wicked kettle]

so updating klipper on the manta is just dump it into dfu and update which is 2 button presses?

[echo linden]

Sort of. You’re not updating klipper as much as installing. You’ll need to ssh in, setup your klipper instance for the board, make your klipper instance, set the board into dfu mode and then flash klipper to the board.

[wicked kettle]

i already have my printer running so it already has klipper on it. mainly asking about once installed how to update. as mentioned i have katapult on my manta also but based on what im seeing it doesnt need it.

[echo linden]

If you already have Klipper installed and you’re Just looking to update then you do it through your browser mainsail, fluidd whichever you use. If you’re looking to add can that’s another process.

[wicked kettle]

so i have never had success with canbus maybe i just missed somthing in the past, but i followed your guide and i have my ebb36 working. i appreciate the time you put into the guide. great work.

[echo linden]

Thanks for the kind words. Glad to see people are getting use of it.

[polar scaffold]

sorry for the reply on the old message.

Does this just mean connect the drain wire to the ground wire on the ebb36 end and only on one end?

I am getting conflicting information via the internet and tbh I've literally never heard of a drain wire before

[acoustic quartz]

Yes you only need to connect the drain wire that is coming out of the cable to the ground somewhere. The drain wire does not need to be connected to the ebb and it doesn't have to come out of the ebb end.

[polar scaffold]

only on one end correct?

[acoustic quartz]

Yes, for the moment, until I pretty up my wiring, I just have it coming right out of the cable and directly into my ground terminal block

Not sure if you can see the silver cable that's just kind of wrapped around the silicone sheath of the ebb cable.

[fluid gyro]

man, am I glad to find this! it's exactly what I need now! 😅 @echo linden - thanks for putting this instruction together. just wanna double check something if that's okay. I did find that vid by stacking layers, but not sure if he has mentioned about jumping 120R on both boards, so in regards to these jumpers, i would have to use a more permanent jumpers while the VUSB is to use one of those temporary ones as it will be taken out, correct? Because before I found this, I've followed the vid and flashed my EBB36 without R120 jumpered. So I guess, what I need to do next is to compile and flash my M8P, put the R120 on M8P before connecting the CANBUS cable?

I also tried flashing M8P (without the EBB36 connected), and as soon as I done that, I seems to have lost connection from my CB1, is that normal? cuz it doesn't make sense to me....as I should still be able to access M8P from CB1 and continue to print even with the new updated firmware.

[echo linden]

Hey no problem. Let me see if I can help you out.

After you flash the Manta over USB with klipper you will then need to power it externally and remove the VBUS jumper. You would then flash Katapult over USB onto the EBB using STM32CubeProgrammer (they couldn’t think of a better name) once that is complete you then add the 120R jumpers to both boards (make sure to remove the VBUS jumpers) and connect your CAN cable between the Manta and EBB. From there you flash the EBB over CAN with Klipper.

You shouldn’t lose connection the M8P, no. What error do you get?

[fluid gyro]

so, where I am with this is .....I've got built my merc1.1 with m8p and cb1. all working okay (still doing tweaks/calibrations as it is still rather fresh😅). so what I have done was installed katapult on CB1, compiled the katapult.bin, then used the STM programmer to flash ebb36 on my windows box. Then next, I was back on CB1, under klipper, compiled one for the M8P, flashed it, then I'm getting the typical not being able to connect to MCU on mainsail.

then I re-compiled back to prior config which I believe the difference was only the USB bit, re-flashed and I was back on from mainsail.

unless, if the new firmware for M8P will only work when ebb36 is connected?

[echo linden]

The connection to the CB1 and the Manta shouldn’t matter. What I would recommend is not start up mainsail until you are completely done with the process, EBB flashed, and CAN wired. From what I’m to understand it will lock the CANbus. I don’t know how true this is, but I had issues, like you starting up mainsail before everything was complete. I would start fresh with your install with the Manta and such and go back through the steps.

[fluid gyro]

ok, cool. so with the ebb36 is now flashed, my next step then should be...please correct me if I'm wrong....

1. jump R120 on ebb36
2. put jumper on R120 for M8P
3. flash M8P
4. sort out the config for ebb
5. power off
6. connect CAN wire
7. power on
   then hopefully all should be hunky dory?

what I'm trying to get at here is, I want to make sure that CB1, M8P, and EBB are all happy talking to each other before I start cutting and re-wiring/shortening cables.

so not sure if a big bang approach is needed before all is hunky dory, or if I can do it in stages

hope that makes sense

[echo linden]

If the EBB has katapult on it, then leave it.

From there the Manta can be flashed over USB. So VBUS in 120R out. Flash Klipper to the Manta.

Connect VBUS out, 120R in on both boards. Connect the CAN cable (I used the full length then once everything was working cut to length)

Grab the UUIDs then Flash klipper over CAN to the EBB. Then you can set up klipper through mainsail.

You need to have everything ready to go before you start mainsail.

[fluid gyro]

ok, so your recommendation is for me to flash M8P via USB instead of via CB1?

[echo linden]

Sorry, USB powered. Didn’t mean to confuse it. @fluid gyro

[fluid gyro]

Ah ok, so if I understood this right, you're recommending is, when flashing the M8P from CB1, it needs to be disconnected from main and power them both on USB? Then still flash M8P from CB1?

[echo linden]

It doesn’t have to be. Since you’re adding an EBB in you can power the board from the PSU and forget about the VBUS jumpers altogether. I wrote the guide under the thought most people would be setting up for the first time. You can put the 120R jumper on the Manta and not have to worry about it. You can then flash through SSH like normal.

[fluid gyro]

ok. thanks for confirming. so I will stick jumper on 120R on M8P, flash it via CB1. Then connect it to ebb36 via CAN wire as the ebb has been flashed already.

[echo linden]

The EBB has katapult or klipper?

[fluid gyro]

katapult

[echo linden]

Ok. Then you will need to still flash klipper to it after you retrieve your UUIDs.

[fluid gyro]

oh yeah...that's right....and that can be done by plugging ebb via USB to manta? then do it via ssh?

[echo linden]

You would do that after connecting both via can before flashing klipper to the ebb.

[fluid gyro]

ok#

what I was wondering is why I lost connection to M8P after I flashed it via CB1. I didn't have the jumper on R120 not it was connected to EBB

[echo linden]

Ebb comes after the manta in can bus. The manta isn’t dependent on the ebb for communication. I would finish the process then assess any issues after.

[fluid gyro]

I mean if we forget about the ebb for now, I go to klipper, recompile firmware in preparation for the can wire, flash the board, M8P & CB1 should technically continue to work, right?

[echo linden]

It should, but I’m not there. So I’m assuming you’re compiling the klipper image correctly for the manta. So there are a lot of variables falling into place during the process. That’s why I recommend to go through the process step by step and then check for any issues. There are still further steps to be completed after everything is flashed.

[fluid gyro]

ok got it. thank you again for your support. I will attempt this later today.

[echo linden]

Ping me if you run into problems.

[raven oar]

Hey Guys I am back

Now that i have the power cables ready to connect ebb to the power supply , what is the best position to mount the ebb so it can respect the position for the ADXL

In the scheme bigtreetech show this

Should i mount in this position?

[echo linden]

If that’s the front of the toolhead, then yes. @raven oar

[raven oar]

yes its the front

what is the best way to arranje small cables to connect to the steper motor ?

[echo linden]

Are you making your own harness?

[raven oar]

???

sorry i didnt understand

by the way where can i find this kind of "rope" to protect the wires ???

[echo linden]

That’s cable sleeve from a company called MDPC. I would suggest looking up their site and find a reseller that ships to you. It tends to be pretty inexpensive.

[raven oar]

where are they from ?

europe ?

[echo linden]

Germany.

[raven oar]

I am in portugual

so it's close

hehehehehe

[echo linden]

We have a place in the states that sells it. So I don’t have to import it. You should have an easy time.

[raven oar]

yep

[fluid gyro]

@echo linden - hiya again, just a quick question in regards to wiring. the ebb end is pretty clear, but on the M8P end, it has 4 PINs in total according to diagram. PD12 and PD13. I'm a bit lost as we only have 2 cables on the ebb end. do I just pick either PD12 or PD13?

so what I mean is, if I use PD12, do just ensure that the CAN-L on ebb goes to L on M8P which is the left pin of PD12?

same goes for CAN-H to L on M8p which is the right pin?

[echo linden]

@fluid gyro Yes. So you either pick the left or right side connector.

[fluid gyro]

doesnt' matter which one, right?

does it also mean that M8P can take up to 2 ebbs?

[stone spruce]

hey d00dz how can i update my MCU without bricking it.

I'm try to get my MCU to klipper v12 for KAMP. Only problem is when i use make menu and flash the MCU doesn't boot up or show up when i query MCU's

[fluid gyro]

@echo linden - hiya mate, I'm on step 19. so after I did the make flash command, I cannot access M8P anymore. I'm getting this

this is what I meant the other day

I have not rebooted CB1 though, should I reboot everything?

or perhaps I need to jump 120R on M8P as well? which I have not done. and I've been looking on the board. my old eyes cannot find it

[echo linden]

Correct.

[echo linden]

Ok. If you wait long enough it will error out. What error do you get?

[fluid gyro]

i've turned it off for now as I'm still looking for the 120R pin on M8P

can't believe I cannot see it!! 😅

this old eyes don't help

ah SNAP! saw it!

turning it on now

I've jumped on M8P, but I haven't plugged ebb as yet

i just wanna see if I still can connect....I should shouldn't I?

[fluid gyro]

I will wait until it errors out as I'm getting this again

I'm getting unable to connect to MCU

so yeah, I think it's expecting ebb to be there, isn't it

[echo linden]

Did you add your uuid to your config(s)? @fluid gyro

[fluid gyro]

ah, nope..🫡

by the way, in regards to powering it

I can use any of the ones available from PSU output, right?

as long as it's 24V?

[echo linden]

Yes.

[fluid gyro]

feel so stupid! I should have continued on with your steps because you have highligted the 120R in blue! LOL

okay, I've plugged it in but I can only see 1 green led, solid

[echo linden]

And you have setup the config accordingly? @fluid gyro

[fluid gyro]

yeah, I just installed klipper on canbus successfully

I used this command --> python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flash_can.py -i can0 -f ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin -u b3d3eb8476aa

edited the network interface as well, all done

but only 1 green solid light

not sure if it's my wiring or something

[echo linden]

I mean the printer.cfg in mainsail.

[fluid gyro]

sorry to digress slightly, I tried going to serial folder under dev, serial folder no longer exist

as I'm trying to add the ebb.cfg, by putting the by-id path, went back to ssh and i couldn't find the folder

[echo linden]

I’m confused. Why are you adding a cfg via SSH?

[fluid gyro]

ok I'm good now

I just realised that I have to change the /dev/serial to canbus id in cfg

given that it seems klipper is now happy, is it still not right to see 1 solid green light on ebb?

[echo linden]

I’ve read it’s supposed to flash, mine stays solid. YMMV

[fluid gyro]

have u got only 1 that's flashing?

or u got only 1?

cuz here, according to the instruction that you wrote (if I read it correctly), don't think you selected Enabled Status LED. should this be selected perhaps?

[echo linden]

My manta flashes. My ebb doesn’t. I didn’t turn the light on because every guide I read left it off.

[fluid gyro]

ah yeah, then mine is doing the same thing

cheers for this mate. thanks for putting up with me

[echo linden]

No problem. Glad to help.

[stone spruce]

dumb question does the "/dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32g0b1xx_" ID change everytime you flash?

[echo linden]

No. @stone spruce

[stone spruce]

serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32g0b1xx_340034000C504B4633373520-if00```

i'm stuck on klipper 10 and when i flash kiauh the mcu becomes unreachable

[echo linden]

Im not familiar with Klipper 10

[fluid gyro]

Any particular reason why you need to be on V10?

[echo linden]

Oh. That’s what they mean.

[fluid gyro]

Sorry, that question was meant for @stone spruce. Trying to understand if he was trying to upgrade and got that issue or If he got that problem on v10 and that he needs to stay on v10 for a particular reason.

[echo linden]

If I recall correctly they mentioned wanting to use KAMP. That requires at least v12 for exclude object.

[fluid gyro]

Yeah, that's correct

[echo linden]

@stone spruce shot in the dark, are you running an old Debian image?

[stone spruce]

I'm going to try flashing via SD Card since DFU mode is giving me crap. Yeah trying to upgrade for KAMP..

[echo linden]

It won’t update via mainsail @stone spruce

Sorry. It’s been a crazy day.

[stone spruce]

|  _ \ | |   | |_____| |   |  _ \| |
| |_) || |   | |_____| |___| |_) | |
|____/ |_|   |_|      \____|____/|_|

Welcome to BTT-CB1 2.2.1 Bullseye with Linux 5.16.17-sun50iw9

[stone spruce]

no worries brother, it's just a hobby.

[echo linden]

So what happens when you update through mainsail?

[stone spruce]

that doesn't update the MCU just the klipper install on the CB1

[echo linden]

Ok. So you’re trying to update klipper or the mcu?

[stone spruce]

MCU to klipper 12

[echo linden]

What happens when you do it through SSH?

[acoustic quartz]

@stone spruce Are you trying to flash the board using the make flash command or ar you trying to do it through USB? What board are you using?

[stone spruce]

I'm trying to flash via the make flash command, it get an error complaing about DFU failed. can't get it to go into DFU no matter the button combo

it'll flash via SD card and firmware.bin

[acoustic quartz]

Regardless of the DFU failed does it say the download was successful?

[stone spruce]

yes

[acoustic quartz]

Then the rest doesn't matter

As long as the download was successful

[stone spruce]

am i just being a smooth brain again

[echo linden]

Oh. So it’s saying at the end DFU failed? Not that you’re checking through lsusb?

[acoustic quartz]

Yeah if you do an lsusb command you should see the stmXXXblahblah connected in DFU mode.

[echo linden]

I was confused. I was under the impression that’s why they were saying it wasn’t in DFU.

stmxxxblahblah rolls off the tongue

[acoustic quartz]

Sorry, it's the STMblahblah, I fixed it.

[stone spruce]

so after i flash i get this ```###### Identifying MCU connected via USB ...

#=======================================================#
No MCU found!
MCU either not connected or not detected!
#=======================================================#

[echo linden]

Are you flashing via usb?

@stone spruce

[stone spruce]

yeah

the internal usb no?

[echo linden]

Do you power cycle the board after flashing?

No. USB is external.

[stone spruce]

OK, i'll work on that

[echo linden]

Can you open it back up in mainsail?

[stone spruce]

yeah, i have to flash it with the firmware from the github to make it reachable again

[stone spruce]

Does this look correct?

[echo linden]

Looks good to me. @stone spruce

[fluid gyro]

@stone spruce - now I understand where you were and are, if you're still stuck, ping me as I've just literally gone thru this process.

[fluid gyro]

@echo linden - Hiya, just wondering in regards to mounting this, am I right to say that with the available mount for EVA2.4, the adxl axis won't be correct?

[echo linden]

@fluid gyro Do you mean for the ADXL?

[fluid gyro]

yes, sorry, was re-reading what I typed and realised that it didn't make any sense. lol

[echo linden]

@fluid gyro I got you.

[fluid gyro]

according to the diagram, the Z and Y are going to be swapped when mounted

am I correct?

[echo linden]

I believe that is correct. I didn’t plan to use the onboard ADXL so it’s something I had not considered. There are other much better versed in this than me, but I think as long as you know that when tuning, it won’t matter. I could be wrong though.

[fluid gyro]

ok. thanks. I have read about this somewhere a while back about being able to swap the axis in config

but i can't remember where I saw it

or perhaps, leave it as is and to the test on Z instead of Y...for Y

[echo linden]

Maybe someone like @spare arrow could chime in.

[echo linden]

As far as I know you can mount it however you want but just note which axis you’re tuning for. I bought a nozzle mount since they are cheap enough and apparently more accurate.

[fluid gyro]

ah, which one is that?

[echo linden]

I grabbed a Provoked unit. There is another I saw someone post about a couple of days ago…I think…it’s all a bit fuzzy.

[fluid gyro]

thanks, I'll look into that......man this hobby is a definitely a money pit aye?

[echo linden]

https://www.fabreeko.com/products/nozzle-adxl-board-input-shaper?_pos=1&_psq=Provoked&_ss=e&_v=1.0

You would be better off finding a local vendor.

I don’t know. I think that’s what makes the hobby great. You can buy a $200 printer, tune it and be done. Never to do another thing. Or you can do our deal or you can buy an X1C and never worry about a thing. There’s varying levels of involvement. I was tied up in cars and motorcycles for a long time. Talk about expensive.

[fluid gyro]

anyhoo, just going thru my klipper config now, am I correct to rem out devices that will be mounted on CANBUS? for e.g. for extruder, I rem out the extruder and tmc on my printer.cfg, then as in ebb.cfg, the devies have been populated with the pins (from template), I can just plug them in there and they should just work?

[echo linden]

That’s about correct. You need to make sure your address them as EBBCan: pin number

[fluid gyro]

yeah...i think they're already correct in the case of PINs location..from the template...

[echo linden]

I couldn’t recall. But yeah. There’s no need for redundancy.

[fluid gyro]

so all I need to do is to ensure that the other configs like sensor type, min max temp, and in tmc, for say if I want to turn off stealthchop etc that they are all migrated over

[echo linden]

If you have them in the manta config yes.

https://github.com/gixxerfool/MercuryOne.1-klipper

You can go through my configs here if you would like. It’s under printer.cfg

[spare arrow]

I think I caught the gist. If you're using an ADXL and wondering if Klipper cares about the axes: it does not. It adds up all of the input values to figure out what frequencies to dampen.

There are experimental plugins (klippain, I think) that do handle individual axes, but I'm not terribly familiar with them.

[fluid gyro]

Ok. thanks

[echo linden]

Thanks @spare arrow

[wicked kettle]

this adxl is amazing and i love it so much.

[echo linden]

I haven’t had a chance to use it yet. Everyone praised it so I got one.

[wicked kettle]

preloaded with klipper. literally a plug and play experiance with mine. no fussy wires or anything all you gotta do is uncomment a config section.

[echo linden]

Oh. That is nice. I should try it on my other printer.

[wicked kettle]

you will never go back lol 😂 . the only time consumming part is attaching it to the nozzle thats all. with my dragon uhf i have to take the sock off but thats all.

[stone spruce]

i have one in my canboard but i get the nozzle would be the most accurate place to measure from

[steady flame]

@echo linden @stone spruce might be insightful, https://youtu.be/ufmUmeDnr0Y?si=9sVyNRi-LK8OysJM

[echo linden]

@steady flame yup. That’s the one I watched. When I purchased the EBB I thought the ADXL was neat, but with some thought figured it couldn’t be great, better than nothing, but not optimal.

[fluid gyro]

hi guys, just wondering if anyone that is also using orbiter 2 filament happy to share their ebb config for the switch_sensor & motion_sensor? as I'm getting this at the moment. thanks

whenever I enabled this in the ebb.cfg, it gave me the above error

i have added orbitersensor.cfg and edited that with the PINs of where the sensor is plugged into... and then added it into printer.cfg

[steady flame]

You need to remove the # from the switch_pin (if that wasn't intentional).

[fluid gyro]

sorry..i meant to say if I remove the # from these, it errored out as shown above

[steady flame]

Why are you specifying those two sensors? I believe they are unneeded if using the orbitersensor.cfg

[fluid gyro]

ok cool. I thought so too, but i got that from the ebb sample config

[steady flame]

As you'll specify them in that cfg

[fluid gyro]

so I thought it's required to be specified there too

[steady flame]

No no no

[fluid gyro]

cool, now onto next one...and I think and hope I'm close to the finish line...but I'm not getting this when trying to home (G28)

is this config or wiring issue?

I can set the nozzle temp and extrude

fan seems to be working

[steady flame]

Welp, you haven't even said what probe you have.

[fluid gyro]

ah...sorry.lol bltouch

I've added this to the ebb.cfg

sensor_pin: ^EBBCan:PB8
control_pin: EBBCan:PB9
set_output_mode: 5V
pin_move_time: 0.4
x_offset: -33.0
y_offset: -5.0
samples: 2
sample_retract_dist: 2
samples_result: average```

as that's what I had previously on printer.cfg which has now been hashed out

[steady flame]

I would comment out:
set_output....
pin_move....

I have never used either one of those on a BLTouch.

And see if that does anything

[fluid gyro]

cool, trying now

HUZZAH!

okay, I'm taking my plate pretty much to the bottom and now trying to G28 it again

awesome mate. that fixed it!

thank you muchly!

I've got a hopefully quick question in regards to robiter 2.0 filament sensor config (if you're familiar with it)?

[steady flame]

Yes?

[fluid gyro]

so I've specific in orbitersensor.cfg of fs pin of EBBCAN: PB3 and fu PIN of PB4

does it really matter which one that I specify in the config?

as I used this for the sensor on the ebb

i wasn't sure if it matters which way it is for the orbitersensor.cfg

hope I'm making sense 😅

[steady flame]

It matters, see the image.

[echo linden]

Yes. If you scroll up my configs are linked.

[fluid gyro]

all the way up as in near your instructions?

[echo linden]

Just from today.

[steady flame]

I wouldn't have them copy your configs as their wiring might be different.

[echo linden]

Sorry. That’s good advice

It was more for reference.

[fluid gyro]

ok, so my wiring is similar to yours, but when I insert filament, it grabbed and heat up the nozzle, which is great

but pressing the button doesn't retract it

wait take that back, when i insert the filament, I'm getting this

[wicked kettle]

increase your extrude only dim from 50 or 5 to 10 or 100 i forget if it needs both 00. since the orbiter does a move when loading that i believe is 100mm to load it. #max_extrude_only_distance: 50.0

Maximum length (in mm of raw filament) that a retraction or

extrude-only move may have. If a retraction or extrude-only move

requests a distance greater than this value it will cause an error

to be returned. The default is 50mm.

idk how to format it to look okay.

[fluid gyro]

thanks. i added max extrude only dist which is for some odd reason missing from my new config

been looking at the codes for hours...

with the heatsink that comes with ebb, it's for the STM chip isn't it?

which is the one in the centre

cuz I saw modbod's vid about orbiter and i saw him using heatsink on the other chip (smaller one near E-motor

[echo linden]

No. It goes on the driver which is off to the side @fluid gyro

[stone spruce]

Resolved. I was leaving pb13 enabled when making a bin in make menuconfig. Causing my manta not to boot.

[echo linden]

@stone spruce the status LED?

[stone spruce]

I think I enabled those pins when I was making a klipper bin for the U2C. My version of the manta doesn't have on board CAN communication.

[echo linden]

Oh. I see.