#Finally Going All The Way With The 5 Pro
1272 messages · Page 2 of 2 (latest)
Iv gone to 130hz but without a supported bearing and I only had printed parts before I didn't want to push it much further.
he runs 200hz rn...
I'm sure these rods will be fine up to there. They are only on the x gantry anyways.
MirageC has them on the hevort with 9mm belts.
@obsidian swallow what speeds and accel was your 5:12 min run?
give me those settings
Orca is the slower slicer, believe it or not. Youll never hit my numbers using it XD
yeah Im slowly realising
Too many helpers you cant deactivate
I have it set to even faster and its still 40sec slower lol
Cura may be basic af, but it is faster. Havent touched SS yet, but havent needed to
SuSl seems to be faster than cura
at least it was for me
how does it make the bridge infill? orca and prusa waste a lot there
also supports, I like cura interface more than PS
It doesnt
Itll print mid air fully if I tell it to
Orca will not allow that
forces infill support
I'm talking about SS
Prusa does that too
I tried to disable it
SuSl supports are slower but better than cheap supports
Worlds fastest 2 motor (Non Tiny Printer) corexy printer on the Annex official Speed Benchy leaderboard! This is a fully CNC converted official Mercury One printer. This did start life as a stock Ender 5 Pro believe it or not! Only things lefts stock are the 24V PSU, front power switch, and the frame...... YES THE FRAME is still the original wit...
Official run in the books
Why not werent u using the tapped ones?
Dont have a tap on hand, and Im not gonna force a screw into them XD
Also
Why not?
Wont work for me
Why?
Ah
Get custom cut ones
Why? These fit perfect
Wall mount, wont matter anyway
Y3ah lol
Its not moving again
@obsidian swallow need something from you, are you able to measure the height difference between the tip of the nozzle and the lowest point in the VZ duct?
aka how high the duct sits from the nozzle tip
I think he's at work currerntly. There are CAD models available for the original Vz toolhead that might get you an answer faster.
don't need a fast answer
ans couldn't find the full model if you know where I'd appreciate
2mm with my rapido uhf
Shoot, I remembered that the full CAD for the CNC toolhead is not available so knock-offs can't be created.
It's more just pieces of it here and there.
also since it's adjustable figured I'd ask
I like it
Only for ormanello😭😭😭
😭
He greedy
When are you going 9mm? 🤪
Once I break my magnum+ and swap toolheads
What toolhead are u planning?
Right now, Im pretty set into a frame next before anything else
4040 beta merc when?👀
What color will zeus be?
Matte black ill pay someone to do splatter art on, or whatever is offered
Ooo nice
Nice
@vestal sail If they properly drill and tap my shit, im ordering rn
ask them IDK
Definitely not open rn XD
yes but #dllpdf-🇺🇸
@obsidian swallow do you have the psu terminal cover file?
Trying 9mm on stand offs?
Maybe, but mostly so I dont have to shove thicker belts through a too small hole that loves to flex under 200+hz tension
These things are absolutely solid with no visual indicators or bending
Once I do all my testing, well see how it like more tension. I was too worried that the pillars would bend eventually with how they were looking
@obsidian swallow I'm going to order some 37mm stand offs I guess to avoid my own hassle.
What tensions do you eventually want to get to? Almost 300hz?
9mm GT3 calls for 300ish
But have these at 200hz for now
Gonna slowly bump it up to 250ish
@obsidian swallow this thing is insane. How much have you spent in hardware along lol
Voltage regulator for the pi?
yea buck converter
Where could I find the CPAP hose and Cable strain releif you are using? I'm leaning toward CPAP on my current build and I'll have the same EBB36/Sherpa combo.
@obsidian swallow looks clean!!!
what lenght spacer did you use on the sherpa to the canbus board?
The metal parts make the tanks look like tanks now
Print them green with black screws XD
@obsidian swallow what toolhead frame are you using exactly, and where did you buy it?
he is using the vz toolhead zero G edition
ahh i see, thx
is the one from mellow actually officially licensed with zero g?
unlike the funssor stuff?
yep
cool
I have the same toolhead
what hotend do you use with it? i see 2 different adapter plates for different hotends for the mellow toolhead but it doesnt say any of them are for the mosquito hotends 🤔
I have goliath
ok
I will ask them if any of them fits the mosquito hotend
it looks like precurssor got the one that also works with goliath i think
They told me this: yes there's standard mounting holes for that in the adapter plate
aight cool
@obsidian swallow do u have any other upgrades planned btw? is there anything you can rly improve? 😄
i saw there are light weight linear rails for example, have you considered those? i guess they could have less stiffness than your current setup tho
he has the fysetc lightweight rails, afaik he has the only ones in that size
ah i see
scrolled through a lot of this thread but didnt see that
@obsidian swallow what fan duct are you using? im assuming the standard vzbot goliath fan duct doesnt fit?
@mrblobfisch what setup do you have?
pretty similar to zeus 😄
same toolhead, sherpa mini, mosquito magnum+
not doing cpap for now tho
and not built yet, the parts are slowly arriving
hmm okay ill try those
@obsidian swallow you got an EX3 with 5160 steppers right? what must i use on the klipper section i only find 2290 and stuff but not ez5160 am i looking wrong?
SKR 3 EZ
yeah i mean that i was typing wrong i got the same board as you because you say it was good haha
I believe theyre just normal driver settings
I gotta plug Zeus back in to check with my Z config
my steppers are the one that comes with the zero g set from fabreeko
so nema 17 if i got it right
okey so i need that for the x y and z right
For the EZ steppers yes
i got the canbus working in 1 time so that was not the hard part haha
Thats not the hard part
The hard part is when people use really cheap cabling
And it constantly drops signal
yeah i got the one from 3do the prebuild
yeah good stuff makes your life easy haha
i got dubbel z screw because the 5 plus must i name 1 z to Z1 right and put the same config in
or must i put them on the E0 and E1
i dont need any jumpers on the board right for the steppers?
Just the power jumper if doing 24 or 48V
i am doing 24 so i dont need to change anything then ?
okey end what endstop did you use for the toolhead?
@obsidian swallow can you maybe share the stl for the cable holder?
What cable holder?
on top of the vztoolhead thats hold the canbus cable
Its very rough
why did you get SLM ducts again?
very nice
@obsidian swallow when do panels come in>
why?
Its a heat resistant resin duct. Perfect airflow
Can handle up to 140C
Magnum gets hot
No silicone sock to cover it
ah, ok
if it’s primarily for pla, an enclosure might not be a good idea, however cooling doesn’t seem to be an issue
you could open the door
Still traps hot air
I mean, I value enclosures also for pla, keeps any micro particles from spreading around, but I guess it not the end of the world
Im in a shop with lots of room and open windows, im good
prolly a lot more rigid now?
will you add the corner brace parts again?
❤️
I just noticed is the “new” smart filent sensor in the back right corner, just above the ebox? it’s actually a nice place for it
I think hes had that for a while
yeah, I think it’s out for at least 2 years 😂. that’s why I said “new” I bought v1 right before v2 was announced, and indeed it looks 1mil times better
no way you can mount v1 so nicely
It was behind the printer on the back, but the top panels have that cutout so decided to move it up front
Its nice since im not enclosing
true and it set a nice path for the filament as well
I really need the hydra metal motor mounts, surely they increase the frame stiffness as well
@obsidian swallow can you printer faster now?
I really dig the glitter frame! The Nebula frame is extra extra rigid so should be able to push ol Zeus even harder
i just got my second set of lasercut parts from laserboost
the parts have chonky burrs (5mm rod wont go in any 5mm hole)
also more expensive and much slower than xometry
oooohh, I’m a fan of this! are those much smaller than 221 wagos?
Are you using printed or metal spacers for he cooling duct? By chance do you recall the length?
Awesome, Thanks. It seemed the nozzle was super high on the heat block with the printed 15mm ones I made, but this setup is much different than the E34M1 on my current running machine.
What hotend is that?
Tricorn
Thing looks really nice, I am always jealous of your wiring
Gonna have to redo all of it for the octopus swap XD
Just waiting on motion before diving into that
Still can't keep my CPAP hose and wires from flopping over as soon as I do a long ASA print
My canbus cable is what pretty much holds it all up for now
Gonna have to revisit that too once I ditch canbus
I was thinking about a cable tensioner at the top of the enclosure
I was thinking that too, but I put brackets all up there XD
I was thinking a 2020 with a linear rail so it can move right down the middle
As a plus it would make it even stiffer
Probably not that much since the frame doesnt really flex like that there
Corners are what need help
It's not like it would be the primary purpose anyway, and I could just run all the slack at the top so it doesn't hook on the motors
Running some PTFE tubing would also help hold it up
Ive thought about the rail idea, just no clean ways done with it yet
Run nylon inside the tubes
That would be too easy, I need an overcomplicated solution
I just ordered the parts for that, it's sitting on my desk at home waiting to be assembled
Scope creap is fun at times
It's funny, the only thing stopping the gooseneck is I am out of 2 conductor cable and I keep forgetting to order it
