Evantis Toolheads

[lucid lichen]

I really like that. The one thing I like about stealth burner is that the fan mounts don't seem so flimsy. The fans are generally going to be pretty rigid and I think using that to increase rigidity of the whole tool head is better.

[dreamy marten]

Thank you! Hoping to have something released by the weekend for y'all to try, however initial release won't have much compatibility at first but I will build it out. Over the past few days I have been able to shrink it to the point it has a smaller footprint then the micro mantis while maintaining it's modularity which I am really happy about and can't wait for yall to try. Also we just past 1000 comments on this forum 🥳 Thanks all!

[lucid lichen]

Do you think 2 or 3 3010 would work?

[dreamy marten]

I assume your talking about cooling correct?

[lucid lichen]

Yes. Just seems like you could put 2 3010 and get enough air

More importantly you could build them into the toolhead and add stability by putting them closer to the part.

I'm not describing my thoughts well lol

[dreamy marten]

2 should work alot of people have success with the mantis xol and if you need additionally cooling I would recommend a remote cooling fan or going CPAP

Probably can't as I want to keep room clear for other hotends to be able to be added to this toolhead

I will say that the fan mounts are integrated into the hotend mount so they should be stiffer than on the regular xol

[lucid lichen]

Will that bolt on to your belt plate?

[dreamy marten]

yes using the same mounting system as the micro mantis m

[lucid lichen]

Did you start the micro mantis from scratch or did you fork it? I want to figure out what to do to modify/update.

[dreamy marten]

@lucid lichen I currently just have it uploaded to Printables currently working on a github for everything but it will probably be a while as I am completely new to the whole github thing

[lucid lichen]

let me know if you need help with the github thing

[dreamy marten]

be careful I might take you up on that offer xd

[lucid lichen]

Its not hard at all

[dreamy marten]

Alright y'all just released the Evantis V2 toolhead on printables very limited right now but will be rolling more out over the weekend just wanted to get something out there y'all could look at and give feedback on. Thank you all! https://www.printables.com/model/600324-evantis-v2-toolhead

Evantis Toolheads

[errant skiff]

I would add wire routing and attachment points to the klicky piece

[violet kayak]

sweet!

[errant skiff]

also I'm sad the fans are not 5015

[errant skiff]

I don't want to buy more

[dawn flame]

I just want more cooling without buying a cpap fan XD

[dreamy marten]

The Evantis V1 still works and I will be adding more cooling methods in the future

[dreamy marten]

If you haven't yet you can go with the static bed cooling system that uses a remote part cooling fan.

[dawn flame]

that would also mean getting new fans

[dreamy marten]

true lol

[dawn flame]

the other problem is, there is actually no toolhead which has what I need XD
so I need to mod a lot no matter what

[dreamy marten]

but if you aren't using a plus you maybe able to use normal fans. What fans do you use?

and what is your setup?

[dawn flame]

I have a HeroMe Gen7 rn and a normal E5
I'm planning ahead on when I'm converting to M1.1 and enclosing it
I'm running a Rapido UHF, Orbiter V2, Unklicky NG, I want to still have my 3 neopixel(2 for nozzle, one as an indicator) and I would love to use the Knomi we have lying around
I am fine with going either CPAP or dual 5015 (and if it doesnt hit cooling too much, dual 4010 would also be fine) though I would prefer not wo cpap now as I would need to buy another fan

most probably I'm going for the micro mantis S, mod neopixel mounts on the ducts and a klicky NG mount to the carriage
then I can use a knomi front piece I found on printables

[dreamy marten]

Finally I found what I was looking for. 24/7 printing uses this setup for remote cooling

[dawn flame]

I know
I'm just not sure how viable it is on a 255 bed

[dreamy marten]

that would be my question as well lol

[dawn flame]

could you provide a step or dwg file for the Rapido UHF ducts for Micro Mantis so I can put neopixel mounts on them?

[dreamy marten]

@dawn flame I recommend modding the 80 cause it allows more room for extruders but here they are

[dawn flame]

thank you very much :)

[dreamy marten]

np

[brisk granite]

those fans would be costly

[errant skiff]

@dawn flame EVA3 has all you ask

[dawn flame]

Not klicky ng
And the dual 5015 are too long at the back
And it's heavy

[errant skiff]

missed the NG detail

want light? wait for VZ 😛

[dawn flame]

No knomi, no Neopixel XD

[errant skiff]

mod it

[dawn flame]

but the micro mantis fits almost all I need, so it's easier to mod XD

[brisk granite]

Why not SB if you aren’t worried about weight?

[dreamy marten]

true only if you dont need the cooling tho

[brisk granite]

SB can do cpap now with knomi

You get enough cooling when you ram enough air through it

[dreamy marten]

I didn't know that I will have to look into that thanks!

[dawn flame]

I care about weight

[brisk granite]

Then you don’t want knomi lol

Neopixel colour macro can work the same

[dawn flame]

Well having a toolheads that is stock 410g with knomi is still more that having a toolhead that is 290g stock with knomi
Also I can do it in a way that I can remove the knomi when I need more speed

Also we have the knomi lying around since my dad bought it
And it bothers me that it's unused

[brisk granite]

Yes I will give SB this, it is solid! And does work well. But yes it is chonky! I get what your saying though. Sir_wash is doing awesome stuff with this.

I think I know what my Y axis problems are. I was rushing and only put 4 screws in the linear rail.

[dawn flame]

SB is by no means a bad toolheads, also it looks incredibly cool
Our trident is running one and the knomi was intended for it
Our status led just sits so tight I don't think we 'an get it out without snapping a cable
I could just do a static housing for the knomi though and not have it on the toolhead🤔

[dawn flame]

@dreamy marten what is your verdict on dual 5015 vs dual 4010 (old evantis vs new one)?

[dreamy marten]

Your after cooling or speed?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuprEWVxHCc

[dawn flame]

Well combination of both

I want to print Pla and abs fast

[dreamy marten]

I would go with a CPAP setup personally 5015 is better for cooling and 4010 is better for speed, but if go 4010 and then use CPAP or a remote cooling solution that would be best I think

[dawn flame]

Well
Now to find a CPAP solution which fits the neopixel XD

[dreamy marten]

Also are you going for a speed benchy or just want to print things fast?

Cause if you fill your build plate up you won't need as much cooling

Also you should see if archetype would work for you

https://github.com/Armchair-Engineering/Archetype

[dawn flame]

I want to print stuff with a good quality fast
So cooling is a thing
I think I will try the evantis 2 first and if it's not sufficient I can still go for cpap

[dawn flame]

They don't have Neopixel support as far as I can tell

[dreamy marten]

I am planning on adding CPAP cooling to evantis 2 once I get the hotend and extruder compatibility rolled out

[dawn flame]

If I can help you, just hit me up

[dreamy marten]

will do!

[dawn flame]

Does the evantis 2 also use m2 and m2.5 inserts like the xol2 or normal m3?

[dreamy marten]

it uses m2 and m2.5s

[lucid lichen]

@dreamy marten sailfin almost doesn't need a plate. I was trying to double the thickness of the Sherpa mini and add holes to mount the bottom of the sailfin but can't figure it out. It is so solid like this though

I'm actually going to try printing with it without an extruder plate just to see.

[brisk granite]

Might want a plate just to support the motor, I’m printing without one and prints are ok but my Y input shaper readings are bad. But could also be my linear rail only having 4 bolts holding it.

[lucid lichen]

Are you reading from the canbus or nozzle?

[lucid lichen]

Yeah. Ideally twice the thickness of the Sherpa mini plate with holes for the open holes on the bottom of the sailfin. But then you have to shave down the support for the motor a bit. It's just out of reach of my cad skills at the moment

(my cad skills are like bigfoot)

[brisk granite]

I originally added the motor support to the top carriage mount part so less parts. I’m reading from nozzle

No can

@dreamy marten toolhead in action, 300 speed for all but outer which is 200, 7k accel for all but out which is 5k. This isn’t pushing my printer yet either. Motors have more just print quality lol. Doing some proto printing so don’t mind if quality is bad.

[dreamy marten]

Yeah any extruder using the same mounting points as the sherpa doesn't need a plate but the plate provides motor support

[dreamy marten]

Fast boi

[dreamy marten]

Just added alot of extruder mounts for the Evantis XOL working on hotend mounts as well that should be released tomorrow.

[dreamy marten]

Here is a little roadmap for what I plan on doing for the Evantis XOL. Once I have all of the hotends, extruders, probes, and carriage/switch mounts added I will work on version of the filament cutter and sensor that will work with the XOL. Then I will work on CPAP cooling. Then Berd Air Cooling. Then maintenance mode/requests so I can focus on other projects

[dreamy marten]

So there is going to be a delay on the hotends for a day or two didn't double check dims while model and I have to redo a lot so there goes my Sunday time to model 😦. sorry y'all

[lucid lichen]

Eventis is 4010 blower right?

[dreamy marten]

yes

[lucid lichen]

sweet. ordered the right ones from amazon (6 mins left to get it before 8am when I asked the question lol)

[dreamy marten]

What brand?

If you are in the U.S. you should purchase these fans very good quality for the price from what I've been told https://www.fabreeko.com/products/4010-blower-p-series-fan-by-honeybadger?variant=44301938884863

this fans also come with a 1 year warranty which I think speaks alot to their quality

[lucid lichen]

winsin or something. I'll order honey badger, but this lets me get it assembled tomorrow

[dreamy marten]

Roger what’s your setup again?

[lucid lichen]

well I'm building a slightly enlarged 5pro

• hydra

octopus pro 1.1, rapido 2,

[brisk granite]

The honeybadger 4010’s are good, I’ve seen some good words about them everywhere. Not many doing that high a RPM!

[dreamy marten]

Just added support for Dragonfly and Dragon hotends

[dreamy marten]

Revo Voron and Bambu support added as well

[violet kayak]

I happen to have 2x4010 gstime blowers, I have the evantis M all printed and slowly moving toward installing it (or test it at least) but the 4010 blower will resolve a possible clearance issue I might have on the x travel

[dreamy marten]

Been watching the xol channel in the armchair engineering discord and saw this https://github.com/Armchair-Engineering/Xol-Toolhead/tree/main/STL/Experimental/XolPAP

CPAP drop in for the xol modifications would be need to the hotend mounts I have but could work. I will likely be going down a different path, but this is cool

[dreamy marten]

You are having X travel problems?

[violet kayak]

not yet, but if I want to use the wiper/bucket, which is currently mounted on the left side, the mantis will not make it by few mm. right now with eva 2.4 the toolhead is already at the end of the rail to wipe the nozzle.

So when I move to mantis, I really need a ready solution to wipe in the back, since by some eyeballing calculations I’ll be able to gain ~10mm on the back

[dreamy marten]

roger something like what the 2.4 uses the bucket system towards the back of the machine should work

https://www.printables.com/model/174526-trident-mount-for-decontaminator-purge-bucket-nozz

[violet kayak]

but with the 2.4 now I have the problem on the back, with a 255 bed I am barely able to use the sexbolt

[violet kayak]

hm, that’s a nice design!

[dreamy marten]

As for the sexbolt I think you can use Turtle's mod for the hydra's back arm or modifications may need to be done, haven't tested it.

[violet kayak]

yes, that’s what I have. works fantastic. the brush mounted on the bed would not work on color change mid print, right now I have a set of compromises that seems to work 😅. I just need more cooling when I print pla -> evantis

[dreamy marten]

Right now remote cooling but I will eventually be working on CPAP cooling ducts

[violet kayak]

I’ll need to redesign the bucket/brush to be slimmer, it might not fit as-is in the back, but I’ll get there when needed 😅

[dreamy marten]

I believe in you please do share whatever you find works

[violet kayak]

I am not very happy how my mantis parts turned out (wet filament 😩) so I might go and print also the new version 😜

[dreamy marten]

I believe the new version cuts a mm or two off the y travel not much, but still something same with the x

[dreamy marten]

Mosquito added now as well

[dreamy marten]

Dragon UHF and Dropeffect XG added

[dreamy marten]

Copperhead and Revo Micro support added

[dreamy marten]

Bltouch and Euclid Support added

[amber vault]

New version on printables?

[dreamy marten]

Yes the new version is on Printables

[lucid lichen]

is that a 25 mm fan on the tool?

[dreamy marten]

Yes uses a 2510 fan for heatsink and 2 4010 fans for cooling

[dreamy marten]

Toolhead now has carriage support for 12C, and 9H/C

[dreamy marten]

Superpinda/8mm probe support

[dreamy marten]

Added the filament sensor and filament cutter options

[lucid lichen]

can I help with github? lol

[lucid lichen]

also can you add the mounting holes for the sherpa mini to the micro plate? sailfin has mini holes but needs micro support. I keep screwing it up lol

[dreamy marten]

@lucid lichen Added the new Sailfin mount. Currently working on the github. Trying to mimic the docs for the EVA 3 Mod

[lucid lichen]

@dreamy marten mind if I send you a dm?

[dreamy marten]

all good

[lucid lichen]

sent

[dreamy marten]

Here is the github that I've put together so far expect more to come. Let me know if you have an recommendations plan on adding a lot of documentation once I have completely moved. 🙂

https://github.com/Sir-Wash/Evantis_Toolheads/tree/main/Evantis_XOL/STLs with CAD

[lucid lichen]

I asked for it backwards

lol it needs the low mount

with the sherpa mini holes

not sure if this helps

[dreamy marten]

roger I will fix that

so sherpa micro support with mini mounting holes right?

@lucid lichen this work?

also working on adding CAD to all XOL stuff

5015 is going to be a while since it's not as nicely organizated as the XOL cad doc

[lucid lichen]

Finally getting to test it today.

[lucid lichen]

@dreamy marten looks like a good fit. Quick question on the belt plate. Should that hole go all the way through?

I went ahead and pushed it through but wasn't sure if additional walls should be generated around the hole

[dreamy marten]

Sorry just seeing this now are you able to take a snapshot? The belt plate should only have holes no "pits"

[dreamy marten]

crap

I need to edit this really quick think I uploaded the worng verison

@lucid lichen Here is the updated one sorry about that

[lucid lichen]

No worries man.

[low comet]

@dreamy marten happen to have a bottom plate for pcb klicky on a uhf dragon mount? on your modded xol? im going to experiment with this toolhead on my merc. i run xol on my vorons so will hel;p me keep my slicer stuff in parity

[dreamy marten]

@low comet I don't but I believe @lucid lichen may have created one

[low comet]

anyone?

[dreamy marten]

@low comet sorry just seeing this now. I am currently recovering from surgery but when I get better I make it for you

If the meantime if you'd like to do it yourself here is the github project with all the CAD models. I would use the Euclid as the base for this: https://github.com/Sir-Wash/Evantis_Toolheads

[dawn flame]

@dreamy marten do you have a blank hotend plate(just the back portion of a hotend mount, I want to add it to an armchair xol to be able to use the armchair XOL with a top mounted rail)

[low comet]

cad histories arent in there for probes only stl's. hope you feel better soon.

[dreamy marten]

@dawn flame Something like this?

@low comet Sorry didn't realize that here you are

[dawn flame]

except for the fact that it's a little borked exactly, but I can fix that myself

thank you very much

[dreamy marten]

@dawn flame sorry about that

[dawn flame]

no worries, I just though it looked funny

[amber vault]

@dreamy marten this is a mod to the last version of XOL?

[dreamy marten]

what is?

[amber vault]

this. The Evantic

but now that ive looked. the xol mounts in front. and this mounts at top

[dreamy marten]

correct yes

[dawn flame]

@dreamy marten do you have cad files for the mgn12H rail carriage, blank back plate and klicky and blank bottom plate for the xol evantis?

[dreamy marten]

sending dm

[dawn flame]

you are amazing

[lucid lichen]

idk if you still need it. This works. Sorry I've been away for a while.

[dawn flame]

@dreamy marten how long are the screws to screw your rail mount to an mgn12h block?
M3x8 I assume?

[dreamy marten]

I believe they are m3x8 if not m3x10

[dawn flame]

Looking at the cad it's m3x10
I put the holes down by 2mm as I don't want to buy m3x10 XD

[dreamy marten]

copy lol

[dawn flame]

@dreamy marten me again:
Are we actually supposed to print the belt clamps standing up?
Or what is the preferred orientation
(Asking cause I printed one on the back since it seemed most logical and the holes came out horribly)

[dreamy marten]

Yeah I print it on the back and just clean the holes after

[dawn flame]

are there steps for them so I can mod the holes to be printed without supports?

[dreamy marten]

here you are

[dawn flame]

Thank you so much
You are amazing

[dreamy marten]

lol np

[dawn flame]

@dreamy marten I modified the belt clips so the holes can be printe without supports
I'll test it soon whether it works better

[dreamy marten]

ty

[dawn flame]

dumb question:
Why is there this little notch

[dawn flame]

and no worries, was only like 5 min of work
And I mean I need ot for myself so I had to do it anyways so why not share it so everyone can profit

[dreamy marten]

thats how I know which side faces the hotend

planning on be working the cooling setup soon so I may change the belt grips

[amber vault]

anyone have this up and testing? im looking for pictures and opinions .

[lucid lichen]

I don't have pics and I'm in the process of reprinting it because I have abused (heat insert abuse) my current ones a couple of times. Honestly of all of the toolheads this is my favorite. It is rock solid and the cooling is part of the structure instead of dangling out in the middle of nowhere begging to break off

@dreamy marten one suggestion would be to add some kind of heat insert/hex nut dual option for the fans. the only problem is that heat inserts are so small it is hard to put them in correctly

[amber vault]

you go with the (m) or (s)?

[lucid lichen]

M

I might go S this time around

[amber vault]

Is it the same size?

[lucid lichen]

I think it's 5mm smaller on the Y axis.

For an extruder look this https://www.printables.com/model/282299-sailfin-extruderremix or the original sailfin or the sharkfin (all related)

[brisk granite]

I’m using sailfin, haven’t had any issues it’s been solid.

I want to get some RIDGA gears for it

[subtle falcon]

Is this toolhead Beacon compatible?

[dreamy marten]

Copy I just got home after a several cross country road trip so now I need to unpack. ☹️ I should be all set to start working on the redesign sometime next week when I have internet

Looking to do something similar to how annex mounts their fans

And I am going to also have CPAP working as well

[dreamy marten]

Yes like @lucid lichen said the S(ilm) version is for all the y savings as I found most other tool heads can be used on the E5 pro with hydra and still have access to the rear of the machine to have stuff like a brush, z-endstop, etc… due to how compact the machine is.

[amber vault]

So everything is still in front of the 2020rail?
Just mounted on top?

Was looking at XOL. Looks to mount iin front

[dreamy marten]

As of now no however maybe in the future but only with ultra high flow hotends that extend down far enough. Maybe the mellow BD sensor could work as well with it as it’s not as large, but I haven’t tested it yet.

[dreamy marten]

Yes that’s the main point for design to remove the 22mm or so of additional y from the rail and put it on top of the extrusion

[dawn flame]

I would actually like to help you with it if you want

[dreamy marten]

Sounds good. I’ve been meaning to create a discord for some of my current and future projects so I will have to do that and we and collab there if you’d like

[dawn flame]

What is your general idea for the rework if I may ask?

[dreamy marten]

Have fan mounts that connect to the hotend mount separately like how the annex k3 toolhead is.

[dawn flame]

Wouldn't that be quite wide?

[dreamy marten]

Possibly but they are at a 45 degree angle so I think I could lower that as well as there is a bit of space on the hotend mounts already that I can utilize.

[amber vault]

hotend fan is 4020? 4010? 4040?

[violet kayak]

I have a fully printed evantis M with few add-on modules, I still haven’t managed to mount it, but it takes 3010/3007 fan

I have issues with the long neck unklicky design, I have to rework it a bit to make it easier to assemble

[amber vault]

its not a 2510?

delta fans are that much better?

[devout brook]

out of curiosity, will the goliath watercooled fit on here, and if not are there any plans to make it supported? Ive seen a guy on insta running a mantis with goliath water and hextrudort with cpap on his V2.4 and it looks dope af but i cant for the life of me figure out what mods he's done to make it work

[amber vault]

Is it the same length as the other UHF 's?

And does it mount like a V6?

[devout brook]

its slightly longer than the air cooled one which is supported on this. my main concern is the how much the mount sticks out. its meant to have a hotend fan, so idk if i would be able to fit the watercooled version with the fittings and make it work

this is how it mounts bwt. im not too familiar with how the v6 mounts

[amber vault]

Ya. Ok. O think you'll need to look into the zeroG/vzbot toolhead

[devout brook]

yeah possibly.

i just like how it looks tbh. i found someone on printables who has the exact thing im looking for but it uses tap, which I dont wanna do, but there is no files or anything for a non-tap setup

https://www.printables.com/model/472233

this just without tap is what I want

and with watercooled goliath instead of air

this is the setup in question I'm looking for

[amber vault]

https://www.printables.com/model/450475-eva-3-goliath-adapter

[lucid lichen]

@dreamy marten I love that the fans provide structure right now. Honestly I just wish I could beef up the bottom rear holes. I mess up every time I try to put the heat insert in there lol. I think it is a strong choice to rely on the fans to provide structure.

[dreamy marten]

The XOL version is 2510

[dreamy marten]

I think I could make that work in the future

[dreamy marten]

Copy I will have to make updates to that then

[devout brook]

@dreamy marten noice, I'll definitely keep my eye out

[dreamy marten]

sounds good I am going to be making improvements to it over the next months since I finally am done moving for the most part, so just ping me again to remind me'

[devout brook]

@dreamy marten 👌

[lucid lichen]

@dreamy martenhow does filament cutter work?

[dreamy marten]

@lucid lichen So this page has a good example of how the cutter should be assembled https://www.printables.com/model/577673-evantis-5015-filament-cutter

You can tighten or loosen the screws to adjust how far the blade cuts into the filament and you just need something that the back piece with press against and then cut the filament

Here is a video I have of it in action

[lucid lichen]

sweet

[lucid lichen]

One last question. What kind of. Blade is that. Like the windshield scraped refill?

[dreamy marten]

I just used some straight exacto blades like the ones for this mod https://github.com/sorted01/Filametrix/tree/main

[cloud blaze]

building the xol version now, I'm assuming that the fans are all screwed into the plastic directly not heat sets?

[vast helm]

If you're talking about hot end fans, I think there's an option for 2.5mm heat sets or self tapping

[lucid lichen]

Any suggestions for adxl mounts

[dreamy marten]

I like the new BIQU ADXL chips they came out with not too long ago I also have this model on printables https://www.printables.com/model/565898-adxl-nozzle-mount

[lucid lichen]

fits klicky pcb a little better and gives you some more room

[cloud blaze]

So I have the toolhead built and installed. Feedback, lots of good thought put into it. Improvements, beef up the dual 4010 mounts so that Heatsinks can be installed for a more secure mounting. Biqu probe, maybe add some shims so the probe can be adjusted in height for different hotends. I had to draw up a different backplate to accomodate my K1 lizard. Superior in design, the extruder mounting plate. I'm using a sherpa mini and that mount is the bomb. Over all a really nice toolhead. I think it's cooling is just enough at 200mm/s but it can't keep up at 300. Of the different toolheads I have built and used I would still recommend the EVA if you can fit it. The 5015 fan with tri-horn duct is just a superior cooling system. But bravo on this toolhead.

[dreamy marten]

ty for this. I am currently working on mount improvements trying several different things, but it's been hard keeping the same form factor and I have been through several different solutions so far that unfortunately haven't worked yet. Also what is the form factor of the K1 Lizard? Additionally, what brand of 4010 fans are you using?

[cloud blaze]

The lizard is the same as a dragon sf. The back plate I made moved the mounting point down 5mm. The 4010's are gdstime units. Not sure what fans the og designers were using but I had to trim up the ducts to fit the ears in. The slot opening at the front was around 1mm too narrow for any of the 4010s I had.

[warm gale]

Is there a BOM or something as far as hardware or what goes where. I figure some of it's the same as the Xol or Mantis.

[dreamy marten]

It should mostly be the same as the standard toolheads just some longer screws and additional heatset inserts

[solid needle]

Is this better over the Evantis? I need better cooling but I can't do duel 5015s on the eva3 because of clearance. I was thinking the Evantis but I couldn't tell if it supported the Dragon UHF

[dreamy marten]

@solid needle Dragon uhf is supported here is the printables page for ya to see what is currently supported

https://www.printables.com/model/600324-evantis-xol-toolhead/files

[solid needle]

Oh sorry I was thinking the one in the original post with the 5015s

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten this one https://www.printables.com/model/545996-micro-mantis-m-tool-head i dont see Dragon UHF in the description

[solid needle]

for the merc is it mgh 12h or C?

[dreamy marten]

My bad, iirc the crazy volcano and the dragon uhf have the same height but not 100% sure

[dreamy marten]

either should work

[wet prawn]

Has anyone made a backplate for the 24pin sprite boards yet?

[amber vault]

@solid needle you doing research?

[solid needle]

@amber vault I'm going to print the toolhead in the first post

[amber vault]

First post?

@solid needle oh. Ya. Micro.

[solid needle]

Yea, I want the dual 5015s

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten whats the difference between the 80 and 90 ducts? also what print orientation do you recommend for them?

[dreamy marten]

I would print the 80 degree ones and print them front side down. The 80 refers to the angle the ducts are inserted at and I find that the 80 gives more room for extruders to fit with the 90 the Sherpa mini has issues with the thumb screw

[solid needle]

thank you

[dreamy marten]

np

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten does this look right to you?

[dreamy marten]

yes sir

[solid needle]

@dreamy martensweet im gonna print them tonight, probably wont be able to install it till the weekend.

[dreamy marten]

no problem hope it's what you are looking for!

[solid needle]

me too lol, i need a little better cooling for my PLA prints. and the dual 5015 Eva3 doesnt work for me, the standard duals hits my A stepper and the owl eyes would prevent me from using the sexbolt and nozzle brush

[dreamy marten]

Are you using the E5 pro?

[solid needle]

plus

[dreamy marten]

Man I thought that the plus had enough space to account for most of the extras

[dusty thunder]

Hi @dreamy marten - hope you're well. I'm currently on EVA 2.4 and wanting to add klicky pcb as I have already bought one. Just wondering if it is possible to use klicky pcb with this hotend configuration? I also would like to add another 5015 for part cooling fan if possible.

[dreamy marten]

I believe someone already made a design for it not sure if they shared it I will try to find the creator right now

[dusty thunder]

awesome. much appreciated

[dreamy marten]

here try this; this was created by @lucid lichen

[dusty thunder]

but as for the rest of the toolhead stls that I need to download, I have orbiter 2.0, rapido HF, and I'd like to go with dual 5015, is this the link that I need to start taking a look? --> https://www.printables.com/model/539219-evantis-5015s-toolhead

[dusty thunder]

Wow! awesome.

or this? --> https://www.printables.com/model/539219-mirco-mantis-toolhead

Sorry for the noob questions

[dreamy marten]

sorry what was the question?

[dusty thunder]

I got orbiter 2.0, rapido HF, dual 5015, which of those links I sent previously is the correct/latest that I should be using?

[dreamy marten]

The printables page will have the lastest files uploaded, just let me know if you have any issues with them and I can upload chances

here is the link to my profile with both designs in my featured models list near the top

https://www.printables.com/@Sir_Wash_415185

[dusty thunder]

Hi @dreamy marten - for klicky pcb stl that you've shared previous, which back and bottom plates should I go for please? thanks

[dreamy marten]

Let me check

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten whats the difference between the S and the M versions? i think i m issed it somewhere

[dreamy marten]

S version is slimmer by about 5mm to reduced the amount of y travel loss, and M version is alot more modular

[dreamy marten]

Real quick which design are you going?

[dusty thunder]

@dreamy marten - I've gone with S. Along with the klickypcb.stl, I've downloaded and printing these

and rapido HF

Have I missed anything?

[wet prawn]

ducts

[dreamy marten]

sounds good

[dusty thunder]

hiya, just wondering if you're using klicky standard or pcb?

[solid needle]

standard, as far as i know pcb doesnt work with the mercury platform due to space, but i could be wrong.

[dusty thunder]

sir_wash replied the other day with this --> #1135027005423898685 message

As far as I've been advised by people in this discord, EVA 2.4 nor 3 has klicky pcb, except for potentially this

which I'm now giving a go...but not sure if I got all the parts that I need printed 😅

[solid needle]

@dusty thundernice! good luck. i just finished printing parts for this, polymaker pop green for the ducts (probably need to reprint them), duct support (def need to reprint this) and klicky. and CF ASA for the rest

[dusty thunder]

thanks and you too. pop green will look sick.

wish got CF ASA, never printed them b4

this is a complete replacement isn't it? as in, nothing from EVA 2.4 can be repurposed?

[solid needle]

heat sets and screws can be reused lol

[solid needle]

Definitely going to reprint the ducts and the duct support

@dreamy marten does that top mount look right? Is it supposed to bolt to the hotend mount?

I know I need 2 more screws in there, this is just a mockup

[dusty thunder]

look awesome. by the way, can't find stl for ebb36 nor cable management...is it available by any chance?

@solid needle is there an instruction of where the heatinsert should go?i checked the step files as I thought the info was there....

[solid needle]

i just went by looks, i've done a lot of heat inserts so i kind of just guess where they go, lol. usually im right, sometimes im not

good rule of thumb, if the hole doesnt go all the way through and a heat insert fits, jam it in there

[dusty thunder]

theres no ebb for this toolhead, is there?

oh wait, what am I thinking

can use the current one I guess

[solid needle]

yea

[dreamy marten]

Looks good not seeing any issues

[solid needle]

sweet, im reprinting the ducts, klicky probe and the duct brace. i wasnt happy with their quality

[dusty thunder]

i printed the ducts standing up as how it came as 3mf, then used organic support

[amber vault]

I'm going CPAP @solid needle

[dusty thunder]

@solid needle - should heat inserts go here too? This is top view of the hotend.

[solid needle]

i was thinking about it, but im going to see how i do with the duel 5015s in this set p

[solid needle]

looks like it.

[dusty thunder]

Or did you do it this way?

[solid needle]

yes that way

[dusty thunder]

Sorry for noob questions

[solid needle]

dont mind the quality. im still dialing this stupid printer in lol

they arent pretty but they work

[dusty thunder]

cheers for the photos. I'm guess you are also using orbiter and rapido?

if yes, I guess the orbiter goes here?

Haven't screwed them up yet, but I think that looks right

by the way, still wondering what this track is for on the backplate?

[wet prawn]

Red is where the filament feeds through to your hot end. Purple ish blue is where it should mount. The ones you marked are to screw into the top plate (top plate is screwed to bearing block)

[solid needle]

orbiter goes in the 2 heat inserts, the 2 holes with the arrows take screws to the top block, i only put 2 in for mockup

[solid needle]

cable management

[dusty thunder]

Please excuse my blockhead, but just to be clear. For this top block, red arrows for screws to cartridge.

Then yellow for orbiter, blue for filament, and need to use these 4 screws to secure it to top block, yes?

[solid needle]

yes but it looks like youre missing a part

[dusty thunder]

oh...really....hmm

[dusty thunder]

Ah the ducts?

[solid needle]

You need the front plate, that you clamp the belt to

[dusty thunder]

Front plate?.....

I've printed the clamp for belt and ducts

let me check the front plate

[solid needle]

How are you planning on securing the belts? Are we running different toolheads?

[rain lodge]

One call-out, there shouldn't be gaps around the heat inserts to ensure full strength.

[solid needle]

@dusty thunder Are your heat inserts melted in or are they placed there for the picture?

@rain lodge I didn't even notice that

[dusty thunder]

melted in

[solid needle]

Put a screw in one and try to pull it out. Does it pop out?

[rain lodge]

Should look like this.

[dusty thunder]

I thought the ones that DrFate09 arrowed, are for screws to secure to cartridge?

[dusty thunder]

no

[rain lodge]

I didn't arrow them, just zoomed in 😀 What filament are you using?

[solid needle]

The holes are for the bolts to the carriage, he wS referring to the gaps around the heat insert

[dusty thunder]

i am using Eryone ASA

yeah I can see what you're getting at...there gaps...but it's secure as far as I can tell. I can't pull it out with screw in there

might have to reprint

[rain lodge]

First, figure out why the holes are too large.

Something is off. I would print the ZeroG test print and see how far off you are from the reference measurements.

https://www.printables.com/model/369447-zerog-absasa-callibration-print

[dusty thunder]

yeah, will need to do some calibration

thanks @rain lodge for your advise 🙏

now back to the missing part...........LOL

[solid needle]

link to the tool head you are using

[dusty thunder]

https://www.printables.com/model/539219-mirco-mantis-toolhead/files

[solid needle]

you are probably ok you are building the S model, im building the M model

[dusty thunder]

I think belts go here

[solid needle]

they do. i was under the assumption that you and i were building the same version

[dusty thunder]

i forgot to print the duct brace 😬

but I think that should be it....will calibrate then reprint....

thanks guys....it's late here...I'm going to hit the sack...thanks again! chat tomorrow!

@solid needle - please share photos/videos if you got yours working soon 🤩

[solid needle]

sounds good, i'll be a couple days lol

[dusty thunder]

hiya, how's it? all done? ...just wondering where would it best to mount the dock for klicky?

@dreamy marten - for bltouch, I can see that there's a bottom plate for it, but which one should I use for the probe mount? thanks

[dreamy marten]

there should be a back plate for it

[dusty thunder]

ah of course.

which one should I go for? for creality bltouch

for rapido hf

ah nevermind, found it

cheers

[wet prawn]

I can say for 100% certainty that the CR touch does not fit in the BL touch mount. Just FYI

[solid needle]

@dusty thunder Wait why do you want the klicky dock if you are using Bl touch?

[dusty thunder]

because, I've never done a klicky before, so I thought, I go with bltouch first with this new headtool, then go with klicky after

hence the noob question of location of dock. 😅

[rain lodge]

It doesn't really matter where you put the Klicky dock as long as your toolhead can reach it to pick up and release the Klicky probe. You'll specify the dock coordinates in your configuration.

[dusty thunder]

Interestingly, according to the table, for rapido HF, I should be using version B, but here's what I found. The height difference between it retracted and nozzle is correct though. If I go with C, it'll be lower than nozzle in retracted state.

[dusty thunder]

@dreamy marten - have i done anything wong here?

[dreamy marten]

I modeled everything off max extended probe height so you might want to go with the nex to lower one so the C plate

[dreamy marten]

You should try using a blank bottom piece before lowering it

[dreamy marten]

Also turn the probe around if you can

[dusty thunder]

Thanks @dreamy marten - try blank bottom piece? Sorry, failed to understand how that will help the probe which is on the backplate? I can try turning the probe around, it's just that there's a groove there which I thought it's for the cable. I will then try printing C, but as I said, I think B is already on the right height. C will potentially making it lower than nozzle when retracted, unless if anyone who has BLtouch can chime in?

[dreamy marten]

The groove is for the klicky wires additionally the bottom plate will act as a spacer pushing the back plate back if you back plate is wrapped

On the bltouch mount where the actual probe mounts there is a zip tie hole to secure the cable to

[dusty thunder]

ok. thanks...

[dusty thunder]

@lucid lichen - Hiya, sorry for the bother. Thanks for designing the klicky PCB stl. just wondering if you've got stl for the dock as well? if you can please share the link, that'd be much appreciated. thanks

[lucid lichen]

Let me look and see if I can find it. I've been busy with work and haven't had time to lay plastic recently

[dusty thunder]

Many thanks! 🙏

[dusty thunder]

hi guys, I'm really struggling with klicky pcb on this E5P. can't seems to be able to find the right stl for the dock...all docks I found is position lower than the bottom plate. so when toolhead is there, it's too far away for magnets to attract. ...

[rain lodge]

What dock are you using for context?

[dusty thunder]

i tried the dock from klicky pcb github, and the mods from community hare tried looking on printables, thangs, thingiverse.

[dusty thunder]

if anyone knows links to the step files for the dock, I'll give CAD a good go.

[dreamy marten]

dont know if you have solved this yet but here are some dock designs that might work

https://www.printables.com/model/595738-ender-5mercury-one-klicky-probe-dock

https://www.printables.com/model/386819-klicky-probe-dock-for-mercury-1-zero-g

[dusty thunder]

@dreamy marten - many thanks, the second one you shared could be a winner...cheers

[dusty thunder]

@dreamy marten - Hi mate, something is not right here, I think the hotend mount needs to be bigger so that the lowest holes need to be lower. low enough so that the bottom plate can be screwed in

Getting tired on this.....😫

[dusty thunder]

Even with the bltouch, none of the holes from hotend to backplate seems to line up. @solid needle - Hiya mate, what's your experience so far? Did u get them all connected up fine without issues?

[solid needle]

My whole setup is sitting on the table next to my printer lol. Also I'm not using BL Touch I'm using Klicky

[dusty thunder]

so all line up ok with yours though?

[dreamy marten]

If they aren't lining up you have mix matched parts from the two versions of the toolhead. Any clue what the klickly pcb plate is made for?

[dusty thunder]

@dreamy marten - hiya, not sure if I understood what you meant by what klicky pcb plate is made for....

[dreamy marten]

There are two versions of the toolhead with different mounting positions. Which version S or M is the klickly pcb mount made for

[dusty thunder]

@dreamy marten - ah, gotcha, I'm not sure as I got the klicky pcb stl from you. I'm building the S....maybe is it for M.

[dreamy marten]

not sure either wasn't me design @lucid lichen is the klickly pcb mount for the M or S version?

[lucid lichen]

@dreamy marten I haven't gotten to do anything with my printer for about a month. It should work with M IIRC but I am using the most recent project you had. I can't remember the name but I will look at my computer when I get home.

I'm just drawing a blank on it. also @dusty thunder I will make another mount. I can't find the file but I am setting up a second printer so I need one. I wasn't thrilled with the original mount because even though it worked, it always seemed a little shaky

sorry i'm so slow to respond. just started a new job and had to swap a thermostat out on my car (which is much more difficult than I thought)

[dusty thunder]

@dreamy marten @lucid lichen - thanks both. yeah, that's probably why the height don't fit and I've been pulling my hair thinking if it's my own fault. been struggling for more than week. lol.

@lucid lichen - if you're able to design for S, that'd be much appreciated. I'm also been looking for the right dock, if you've got it, please do share too..I got E3P. cheers

[solid needle]

Yes everything on mine lines up.

[dusty thunder]

I'm printing M model now...to see if everything lines up on that

[wet prawn]

So.... the belt mounts and the bottom go on different sides of the front

I don't have a picture or I would share

[dusty thunder]

hi all, just wondering if anyone can please advise best way to do cable management for this toolhead. is there any design STLs that I can check out?

as you all know with the EVA, there's that cable management/ route that can be attached to the toolhead

just wondering if there's similar thing here

[dreamy marten]

Nothing specifically designed yet for running all the cables back to the main board however you could use the ebb36 cable management as an alternative

[dusty thunder]

Ok. Thanks

I finally got klicky PCB with model M. But I had to remove the JST connector from the board as there's not enough clearance

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten so i had the Mantis printed but then i saw the XOL and wanted that lol so im about to print this one but do i need to move the rail to the front? or does it still work with the rails on the top?

[rain lodge]

I believe without custom modifications, you will need to front mount the rail. You may also need to print these modified X joints for more space. https://www.printables.com/model/560268-voron-stealthburner-xy-axis-joints-for-zerog-mercu

[solid needle]

Ok. Thank you

[dreamy marten]

It will work with the rail on top

for my mod atleast

if you wanted to go the standard mantis xol which I have seen plenty go you would mount it to the front

I just prefer having the rail on top to recover 20mm or so of y travel due to how constrained the e5 pro frame is

but if you have a ender 5 plus just go with the standard mantis xol

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten I'm printing this one right now

https://www.printables.com/model/600324-evantis-xol-toolhead

@dreamy marten this one mounts on the top?

[dreamy marten]

yes

[rain lodge]

Do you know if your toolhead supports the CPAP duct for the normal XOL? https://github.com/Armchair-Heavy-Industries/Xol-Toolhead/tree/main/STL/Experimental/XolPAP

[dreamy marten]

@rain lodge not as is, there are little ledges that extend over the top of the 4010 fans, but if you remove them possibly

[vast helm]

If you're open to experimenting, I made a top mount carriage for the XOL that I've installed on a V0.2 and is working well.

I think it may work for the Merc belt path as well, but haven't had the time to try it.

[rain lodge]

Mind sharing? You can PM me if you want.

[vast helm]

Sure thing, I'll drop you a pm

[warm gale]

You could as @dawn flame if he'll share his hybrid Xol with you, I have it installed on both my Mercs currently (CPAP on Thing 2). Hopefully, he won't scold me for mentioning it but I think it's a pretty good toolhead.

[solid needle]

I'll take a look, but I just printed everything for this one last night. But hey I could use it next time lol. I think this will be my 4th toolhead for S&Gs

[dawn flame]

I can send you mine later as well, what extruder/hotend combo are you running?
Also I was planning on redoing the xy-joints to allow a front mounted rail for the lightweight gantry

[rain lodge]

Do you have files for Orbiter and Sherpa Mini + Rapido UHF?

[dawn flame]

I have rapido UHF
Sherpa Mini
And orbiter v2

Sherpa micro is not compatible with XOL by default

[rain lodge]

Whoops, meant Mini.

[dawn flame]

No worries
I can send them later when I'm at my pc

I also have mounts for unklicky and unklickyng
Not sure if klicky works as it's shorter
@warm gale aren't you running normal klicky?

I even made a toolhead board mount for the Sherpa if you need that as well

[rain lodge]

Yes please 😌

[dawn flame]

Which probe do you need?

[rain lodge]

Klicky and Beacon.

[dawn flame]

Ok beacon I have nothing
I'll add both klicky mounts

[warm gale]

I'm using KlickyNG on one and Klicky-00 on the other. I'm not sure if there is enough clearance for a regular Klicky but I could always test it and see.

[dawn flame]

KlickyNG is about the same height as normal klicky so that's fine
I just wanted to know whether it fits height wise

[warm gale]

I know the regular Xol added Beacon support

[dawn flame]

Unfortunately won't work on mine cause different carriage

[warm gale]

As long as you don't use that weird KlickyNG I had found the the centralized pin instead of the offset one.

[dawn flame]

I mean I can add beacon support
But someone needs to test it as I don't have a beacon myself

[dawn flame]

Shifting the mount over is easy enough

I feel like I should do an own community mod for the tool head but I don't want to clean up the cad XD

It's such a mess rn

[dawn flame]

@rain lodge I will send the files tomorrow, I want to clean them up a little and do some tweaks to the older stuff (like the normal klicky mount, that's not up to date with the rest of the files)
I hope that's ok

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten what size fan is the hotend fan on the XOL? 25MM?

[solid needle]

Also is there a BOM for hardware? I have most of it assembled but I'm stuck on a few little parts. Like the klicky doesn't sit past the Dragon UHF nozzle.

[dreamy marten]

same fan as the normal xol

[dreamy marten]

did you use the uhf klickly probe?

if you are use this probe body instead

https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/blob/main/Probes/KlickyProbe/STL/KlickyProbe_Microswitch_XL.stl

[solid needle]

Thanks. I'll print that. I'm using the UHF base

[dreamy marten]

copy yeah use the larger probe body and you should be good

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten one more question, what are you using for a dock?

[dreamy marten]

https://www.printables.com/model/386819-klicky-probe-dock-for-mercury-1-zero-g/files

this is what I am using but I have a e5 plus

[solid needle]

i do too. im using a similar one, but its too low

[light steppe]

What is the advantages of the 3 different versions of this toolhead?

[dawn flame]

normal evantis has dual 5015, evantis xol has dual 4010, thus is lighter and smaller and has a lower center of mass

[light steppe]

How much compatibility is there with other remixed parts made for the official Xol toolhead (ie. shroud, EBB PCB mounts, etc.)?

[dreamy marten]

What mods you looking to use?

[light steppe]

@dreamy marten Specifically, the two things i am interested in is a faceplate on printables.com that was modded for a 3DO nozzle cam and the Xol style mount for the EBB36 that has an additional mounting point to the rear carriage plate.

https://www.printables.com/model/574007-xol-nozzlecam-faceplate

[dreamy marten]

the nozzle cam mount should work

[light steppe]

https://github.com/Armchair-Heavy-Industries/Xol-Toolhead/blob/main/STL/EBB Mounts/EBB36 Mount - Orbiter2.0 [strain relief].stl

[light steppe]

Would it work with both the Xol and the 5015 variants?

[dreamy marten]

as for the mount I believe it would work but I don't see what makes this different

likely just the xol variant as they use different hotend cooling fans

[light steppe]

Just an additional mounting point for stability. I was really just intrigued to see if it made a difference with the adxl.

[dreamy marten]

I see

[light steppe]

It may not make any difference, but I figured it wouldn't hurt. 😆

[dreamy marten]

nothing wrong with experimenting, I would imagine it would make a slight difference tho; however if you aren't really planning on pushing the machine that change wouldn't matter

[light steppe]

I'm just starting to dabble in the world of 3d printing mods. I'm amazed at just the difference converting my completely stock E5+ to M1 made.

[dawn flame]

be aware that evantis xol is based off of mantis xol, not xol

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten might be a silly question but where are you running the heater cartridge and thermistor cables?

I love the way this thing looks

[dreamy marten]

looks really nice

I would route it that way if possible

between the back plate and the fan ducts

[solid needle]

The wires would end up touching the heater block that way, but I'm assuming with the silicone boot on that'll be ok

[dreamy marten]

I should be just check it after every or every other print till you feel confident there isn't any issues

[solid needle]

@dreamy marten im thinking of making a channel above the right belt, my cables arent long enough to go under :/

[dreamy marten]

that would also work if you can't extend the wires

[dawn flame]

you could route them under the fan and then out the back and up
that might work

[solid needle]

@dawn flame ill take a look

[light steppe]

@sir_wash Do you know if the Klicky-00 probe is compatible with the Evantis 5015(S)?

[light steppe]

@sir_wash Would you be willing to share the CAD files? I want to try my hand at modding the Klicky-00 to work with Evantis 5015(S).

[amber vault]

What light fan? And cable?

[solid needle]

the fan is nothing special, just a LED 2510 from amazon, the cable is the 3DO cable https://www.fabreeko.com/products/can-bus-cable-by-3do?_pos=15&_sid=2adb564b9&_ss=r

[uneven idol]

Has anyone used the xol version on a stock 5+ z? When I tried it last the nozzle was just too high to touch the bed. Rapido hf.

[dawn flame]

have you installed the bed spacers?

[uneven idol]

Yeah I’ve had the Eva 2.4 working on my merc about a year. I wonder if I did something wrong. Maybe this is sign to go hydra lol

[dusty thunder]

hiya all, @sir_wash, just wondering if you're planning to add led for model M ducts?

[upper sparrow]

did you ever figure this out? Setting this hotend up myself and I'm not really sure what I'm supposed to use 😅

[upper sparrow]

nvmd, I think the modified ZeroG one should work....I printed the Ender 5 one but it sits lower....

Also wondering if Beacon/Cartographer probe mount is in the works or if there is potential for one. I've had a cartographer sitting around and I'm interested in using it eventually too

[solid needle]

I ended up printing the XOL and rotating the gantry to run TAP but this toolhead was my motivation to do that

[upper sparrow]

I ended up taking the Ender 5 one, compressing the Y axis to 75% of normal print size in slicer and mounting it upside down. Weird workaround lol but it works now

[upper sparrow]

So I'm a little confused on the belt setup with Evantis toolhead.

The clamps look to be obstructed by the rest of the body once everything is attached, so the screws holding the belts in place need to be tightened before the rest of the assembly goes together.

However, the screws to hold the belt plate to the rail itself also have to go through the rest of the toolhead. Am I supposed to just attach the belts while the belt plate is still floating and unattached to the gantry?

[brisk granite]

Yea attach the belts to the belt plate first then attach it to the rest

[vestal grove]

If I use the mgn9 carriage, do I have to change the two gantry end as well? ( in a voron trident)

[vestal grove]

😭

[lethal finch]

Is there a Knomi faceplate for this and ebb36/42 mounts

[upper sparrow]

Faceplate is the same as the regular xol so if you can find a knomi version for xol it should work

Ebb36 mount is more related to your extruder than the rest of the carriage

[vestal grove]

🥺

[late hill]

Not sure if u still need an answer but I run the xol toolhead fine on my 5+ with no spacers and no hydra, if you can manually move ur bed to its height limit and the nozzle touches then ur good to go id say. My xol is mounted with the linear rail on the side of the extrusion instead of on top so if u have a top mounted, maybe that’s why.

[brisk granite]

Your belt path will be on an angle with a voron with this, not a big issue really

[lucid lichen]

@dreamy marten is there any remote chance you have a 9mm version of this?

[dreamy marten]

Honestly not sure if there is it would be on the printables page