E5+ "Tri-dra" conversion | Zero G | Page 1

bleak birch Jun 21, 2023, 9:50 PM

#

So I'm not sure if anything like this specifically has been done, but I want to document my progress as I try this build.

I planned on doing the Mercury 1.1 and Hydra conversion to my Ender 5 Plus and bought the respective kits from Fabreeko. I printed all the parts off and then thought about how I was going through all this effort and still wouldn't be able to print in ABS/ASA on the machine (without an enclosure) in my unfinished basement. So I began brainstorming ideas to enclose the printer while keeping the same footprint of the original printer plus the electronics from the 1.1 build.

I had already planned on using Voron Stealthburner and Tap with the 1.1/Hydra build, so I thought about Voron Trident. I hopped into Fusion360, opened the Hydra Plus CAD file, copy/pasted the Trident's gantry assembly, and made a few other adjustments. So now I've got Tri-dra; a combination of the Ender 5 Plus, Voron Trident Gantry, and ZeroG Hydra mod. The CAD design is pretty rough, but I think it get's the idea across and (more importantly) gives me measurements so I can cut/order the aluminum extrusion to size. I still need to add the panels to the design, I will probably borrow the panel clips/doors from the Trident/2.4.

Mods I'll be using:

ZeroG Hydra
ZeroG Electronics Enclosure
Voron Trident Gantry
Voron Stealthburner
Voron Tap
BTT 43 Touchscreen (for KlipperScreen)
Custom Enclosure (acrylic panels)

Disclaimer: I know that the ZeroG team is working on an enclosed version, but given the renders shown make it that much taller and it needs new frame pieces anyway I decided to whip something up myself as I've seen done on this server. Yes, I'll lose some build volume but it's a fun project nonetheless.

Who knows if this will this work out or not, but feel free to follow along with my journey as I build this!

visual ridge Jun 21, 2023, 9:54 PM

#

@digital bramble

#

First I've seen 😄

hoary flowerBOT Jun 22, 2023, 4:48 AM

#

dutchdude#0

ID

173827530929733632

Joined Server

08/25/2020 (3 years ago)

Joined Discord

04/24/2016 (7 years ago)

Roles (12 total)

<@&747615237544345600>, <@&1099869674549821571>, <@&747614576358588516>, <@&777713545088467016>, <@&897202656005746761>, <@&930203983530827818>, <@&1069666243516305488>, <@&785465739905073172>, <@&838139466815766580>, <@&841433880098897940>, <@&818595293154639902>, <@&857994176452624414>

visual ridge Jun 22, 2023, 12:57 PM

#

Looks pretty cool

bleak birch Jul 5, 2023, 11:52 PM

#

Update: Printed off the Trident gantry parts and cut some extrusions to size based on my CAD drawing.

Did a rough test fit of all the extrusions and seems like we’re going in the right direction 🤘🏻

#

Also printed off and mostly assembled the Steathburner

bleak birch Aug 10, 2023, 3:54 AM

#

This project is definitely taking longer than I initially thought, but I’ve been distracted with a few other projects.

Update: Frame is together

#

Just waiting on some linear rails to come in and I’ll be able to setup the Hydra bed and X gantry

bleak birch Aug 28, 2023, 8:35 PM

#

Received the rails for the Y-Axis and was able to put the X-gantry beam in.

I’ve also finished the remaining skirt pieces and reprinted the middle sections with multicolor cause why not

#

Still waiting on the X-gantry rail and the 370mm MGN12 rails for the other two hydra bed mounting points.

bleak birch Aug 30, 2023, 11:33 PM

#

Update: X rail is mounted, hydra assembly installed, and bed mounted. Finally starting to look like a printer again!

Belts should get here on Friday

bleak birch Sep 3, 2023, 5:17 PM

#

Belts routed and tool head mounted!

empty locust Sep 6, 2023, 3:23 PM

#

This is exactly what I was searching for. Amazing build

#

Do you had to remodel a lot of parts from trident to fit voron gantry?

#

Also what is size of that bed?

bleak birch Sep 6, 2023, 3:27 PM

#

empty locust Do you had to remodel a lot of parts from trident to fit voron gantry?

I didn’t remodel any of the parts. The only thing that changed from the stock trident gantry is the size of the extrusions. The printed parts are all just directly from the GitHub.

bleak birch Sep 6, 2023, 3:28 PM

#

empty locust Also what is size of that bed?

This is the E5P sized bed from fabreeko so 377x370

empty locust Sep 6, 2023, 3:44 PM

#

Perfect, now I know what I'm going to do with my e5+

bleak birch Sep 6, 2023, 3:46 PM

#

I can share my CAD file if that would help

empty locust Sep 6, 2023, 3:50 PM

#

Yes please, it would help so so much

#

Do you think you could use whole build plate

bleak birch Sep 6, 2023, 3:58 PM

#

Shouldn’t be a problem

empty locust Sep 6, 2023, 4:00 PM

#

Nice, I have bought build plate and almost all parts for mercury and hydra but, like you said in first post, I think it would be too tall. So this is perfect

bleak birch Sep 6, 2023, 4:01 PM

#

You definitely give up some build height so if that’s okay with you then I think it’s a good system

empty locust Sep 6, 2023, 4:02 PM

#

I have no needs for higher then 10cm

bleak birch Sep 6, 2023, 4:04 PM

#

Fair enough. Working on exporting the CAD. Fusion360 is up to it’s normal BS of freezing randomly

empty locust Sep 6, 2023, 4:16 PM

#

No worries. Take your time. By the way, did you had to buy additional extrusions?

bleak birch Sep 6, 2023, 4:29 PM

#

Yes, I bought a pack of T style 2020 extrusions from Amazon and cut them to the sizes I needed. I also had to order/cut the linear rails to size

visual ridge Sep 7, 2023, 10:13 AM

#

This thing is fancy

bleak birch Sep 8, 2023, 12:57 AM

#

visual ridge This thing is fancy

Just piggy-backing off everyone else's ideas and hard work haha

true hare Sep 10, 2023, 4:06 AM

#

I really like your build, kudos!

#

Could you tell at what height from the top you've mounted the Y cross members and rear X extrusion?

bleak birch Sep 10, 2023, 4:08 AM

#

Thank you, I can take a look at my CAD once I’m home and give you a better guess. But it’s around 50-75mm

true hare Sep 10, 2023, 4:14 AM

#

That'd be great. Looking at my Tiny-T, the Y cross members are 140mm from the top, although the extrusions are arranged differently from the Merc (Z extrusions go all the way to the top, as opposed to below the front bar on the Merc).
Toying with the idea of building a pro-sized machine (or possibly smaller) similar to yours, but interested to know the Z travel I'd have.

#

If you're willing to share your CAD model, I'll be grateful.

bleak birch Sep 10, 2023, 4:22 AM

#

https://a360.co/47XI14B

Fusion

Share 2D and 3D design files and project files with anyone.

true hare Sep 10, 2023, 7:27 PM

#

Thanks for sharing!

#

How did you handle this? Have you used the printed part from the Trident?

bleak birch Sep 10, 2023, 7:32 PM

#

true hare How did you handle this? Have you used the printed part from the Trident?

I used the parts that came with the hydra kit I bought. But I honestly think you could just print that in ABS at Voron’s recommended settings and it’d be fine

true hare Sep 10, 2023, 7:34 PM

#

Strange, the rear vertical doesn't align with the rear X cross member, and it's designed that way (I know it from my tt), so a metal 90 degree connector shouldn't fit there, it has to have some offset, isn't it?

bleak birch Sep 10, 2023, 7:44 PM

#

So my CAD skills are limited. I was just moving things things manually. So if it doesn’t align, that would be why

true hare Sep 11, 2023, 5:18 AM

#

It's totally not your fault mate, the motor mount gets the horizontal extrusion a few mm inside the frame, it's by design.
The trident uses some printable 90deg connector there.

bleak birch Sep 18, 2023, 4:53 AM

#

Was able to wire everything yesterday and turn on the printer without magic smoke. But I struggled with the rj11 connector for CAN on the octopus pro. So a trip to microcenter later and I’ve got a Manta M8P and a CB1 for a hopefully cleaner build and CAN support without an RJ11.

But things things simply would be too simple if that solved my problem. The CB1 wouldn’t boot in the Manta board either through USB with the 5V jumper or through the board powered by the printers PSU.

ANOTHER trip to microcenter and I got a spare CB1 and Pi4b adapter for a sanity check. Struggled getting either CB1 to boot whether it was in the Manta or 4b adapter board. Finally one just started working in the 4b adapter but wouldn’t work in the Manta.

I’m at a loss for what the problem is, but I suspect it’s bad wiring on my part resulting in the CB1 not having the power it needs to boot.. I’m gonna try and redo the wiring for the board over the next week or so (going on vacation for the majority of this week).

If anyone’s wired up a ender 5 plus with a Manta 8P + CB1 and would be willing to coach me through this, it would be greatly appreciated. Wiring isn’t my strong suit and I feel way in over my head after the last two days.

bleak birch Sep 18, 2023, 5:19 AM

#

Shout out to @misty gazelle for helping me realize there’s 2 SD card slots on the M8P

bleak birch Sep 18, 2023, 11:49 AM

#

true hare It's totally not your fault mate, the motor mount gets the horizontal extrusion ...

Good catch on this! I finally took a look at what you were talking about.

I’m printing off those parts and I’ll replace the right angle brackets I was previously using

true hare Sep 18, 2023, 11:50 AM

#

bleak birch Good catch on this! I finally took a look at what you were talking about. I’m ...

If you’ve used regular 90 degree corner pieces you’d twist the vertical extrusion (well, ask me how I know…)

true hare Sep 18, 2023, 11:52 AM

#

bleak birch Shout out to <@103111642321031168> for helping me realize there’s 2 SD card slot...

How about another trip to micro center to treat yourself with an eMMC based CB1? It’s a more challenging setup, especially if you're actually using a Mac (assuming you do…)

bleak birch Sep 18, 2023, 11:54 AM

#

true hare How about another trip to micro center to treat yourself with an eMMC based CB1?...

Pretty solid assumption 🤔 .

The only CB1s at my microcenter are just the 1gb variants that I picked up. What would be the benefits of a eMMC based CB1?

bleak birch Sep 18, 2023, 11:55 AM

#

true hare If you’ve used regular 90 degree corner pieces you’d twist the vertical extrusio...

So probably a good idea to cut another extrusion to size just in case? I've not actually had the printer moving yet.

true hare Sep 18, 2023, 11:57 AM

#

One pro would be faster I/O (supposedly…) and possibly better longevity, as most SD cards fail, unless they are rated for high number of I/O. The disadvantage is that flashing the eMMC is a more involved process. If you're handy with the command line it isn't a big deal.

bleak birch Sep 18, 2023, 11:59 AM

#

I know my way around the command line so that wouldn’t be a problem. It’s more the physical world that trips me up (like noticing a second sd card slot)

true hare Sep 18, 2023, 12:01 PM

#

bleak birch So probably a good idea to cut another extrusion to size just in case? I've not ...

It should be easy to remove your existing one and check if it's not permanently deformed - I'm assuming you made a blind joint?
You really want it to be straight since the rail is attached to it and deformation may affect your tall prints, although the rail on the Hydra arm might compensate for that. I'm thinking that the leadscrew may have wobble if it isn't parallel to that extrusion.

true hare Sep 18, 2023, 12:04 PM

#

bleak birch I know my way around the command line so that wouldn’t be a problem. It’s more t...

Ypu need not worry about the eMMC variant, the standard one is ok.
There isn't any wiring to do, just make sure it's properly seated on the Manta board on these finicky 200pin sockets. There are a couple of DIP switches you need to ensure are on the correct position, too, the M8P manual explains all this in a step-by-step process.
Overall I think you made the correct choice going with that board and getting a tool head board, IMO it's the right way of building a machine these days.

bleak birch Sep 18, 2023, 12:09 PM

#

true hare Ypu need not worry about the eMMC variant, the standard one is ok. There isn't ...

Yeah, the SD card being in the wrong slot was the trick. After that, the setup of the board was pretty straightforward.

The next part is figuring out is figuring out CAN communication with the manta. Following the documentation for the toolhead board is kinda lacking in terms of info for when it’s referring to flashing the MCU vs toolhead board

true hare Sep 18, 2023, 12:15 PM

#

after setting up so many CAN tool head boards, I can now do this almost with my hands tied behind my back 😆
It really isn't complicated. If you need assistance let me know.

bleak birch Sep 18, 2023, 12:16 PM

#

Will do. I appreciate that. It’ll probably be next week since I’ll be on vacation this week

bleak birch Oct 4, 2023, 6:46 PM

#

Update: CAN has been flashed and I'm now onto configuring the klipper config!

bleak birch Oct 4, 2023, 8:55 PM

#

So the hotend thermistor isn't reading correctly and causing an ADC out of range error. Most likely due to my crimping job after cutting off the stock Microfit connector and replacing it with the PH2.0-2PIN connector. Wires are too short to cut off the ends and recrimp them, so waiting on the LDO Revo Voron to show up which has a longer thermistor wire and is precrimped with the right kind of connector. Once that shows up, should be relatively smooth sailing

bleak birch Oct 11, 2023, 8:56 PM

#

So after replacing the Revo heater core, I’m still getting incorrect readings from the extruder thermistor which results in the ADC out of range issue.
Stats 250.7: gcodein=0 mcu: mcu_awake=0.005 mcu_task_avg=0.000015 mcu_task_stddev=0.000010 bytes_write=1481 bytes_read=11053 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=196 receive_seq=196 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.000 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=64001275 EBBCan: mcu_awake=0.002 mcu_task_avg=0.000012 mcu_task_stddev=0.000019 bytes_write=1660 bytes_read=8586 bytes_retransmit=0 bytes_invalid=0 send_seq=203 receive_seq=203 retransmit_seq=0 srtt=0.001 rttvar=0.000 rto=0.025 ready_bytes=0 upcoming_bytes=0 freq=12000457 adj=12000232 EBB_NTC: temp=25.6 heater_bed: target=0 temp=18.8 pwm=0.000 sysload=0.39 cputime=16.211 memavail=710916 print_time=0.001 buffer_time=0.000 print_stall=0 extruder: target=0 temp=-69.8 pwm=0.000

I’ve tried the following thermistor types (I use the second one on my 2.4 running a revo voron so I think that should be correct): sensor_type: EPCOS 100K B57560G104F sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G

Am I missing a jumper on the SB2209 board for the Revo’s thermistor or something else?

bleak birch Oct 11, 2023, 9:17 PM

#

Never mind, I am just a dumbass and left the [extruder] section from the example config in the mcu section

bleak birch Oct 12, 2023, 12:11 AM

#

Okay, sensorless homing for X and Y are setup.

Currently having a problem with Voron Tap triggering as the end stop for Z.

This is what I currently have as my config:

[probe]
# pin: ^EBBCan:gpio6
pin: ^EBBCan:gpio21
x_offset: 0
y_offset: 0
z_offset: 0
speed: 10.0
samples: 3
# samples: 5
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 3.0
samples_tolerance: 0.006
samples_tolerance_retries: 3

activate_gcode:
    {% set PROBE_TEMP = 150 %}
    {% set MAX_TEMP = PROBE_TEMP + 5 %}
    {% set ACTUAL_TEMP = printer.extruder.temperature %}
    {% set TARGET_TEMP = printer.extruder.target %}

    {% if TARGET_TEMP > PROBE_TEMP %}
        { action_respond_info('Extruder temperature target of %.1fC is too high, lowering to %.1fC' % (TARGET_TEMP, PROBE_TEMP)) }
        M109 S{ PROBE_TEMP }
    {% else %}
        # Temperature target is already low enough, but nozzle may still be too hot.
        {% if ACTUAL_TEMP > MAX_TEMP %}
            { action_respond_info('Extruder temperature %.1fC is still too high, waiting until below %.1fC' % (ACTUAL_TEMP, MAX_TEMP)) }
            TEMPERATURE_WAIT SENSOR=extruder MAXIMUM={ MAX_TEMP }
        {% endif %}
    {% endif %}```

Note: I don’t have the NPN jumper set on the SB2209. Not sure if that’s correct or not

bleak birch Oct 12, 2023, 7:46 PM

#

Really confused what’s going on with Tap. The sensor seems to be triggering, but when I query the end stops in Fluidd it’s not showing them triggered.

I’ve checked the wiring, made a new cable just in case, even went as far to reflash CAN. No luck

I know the Pin in the [probe] section is right because it’s always triggered when I add a !

bleak birch Oct 12, 2023, 11:12 PM

#

Probe issue has been resolved by simply using another pin on that connector. Now onto configuring everything else

bleak birch Oct 13, 2023, 4:16 PM

#

empty locust Do you think you could use whole build plate

After some further testing, no you can't use the FULL build plate. It's 10mm shy of the left and right sides of the bed due to how the XY joints make it just onto the build plate. But you do get a solid 350mm^2 build area. Still determining max Z

bleak birch Oct 13, 2023, 9:51 PM

#

The build isn’t “done” as there’s still some more configuration of macros and stuff to do, cleaning up the wiring, profile tuning, and adding panels.

But we are laying down plastic

bleak birch Oct 14, 2023, 1:06 AM

#

Well this design certainly isn’t for those that need a massive Z height. Through testing I’ve determined 225 as my max Z.

bleak birch Oct 14, 2023, 11:31 PM

#

Little bit of speed testing today. 500mm/s @ 25k accel

#

lost bone Oct 18, 2023, 6:04 PM

#

Loving this build. It's what I have been thinking about doing to my 5+ for a while now.

bleak birch Oct 18, 2023, 6:05 PM

#

I appreciate that! It’s been a cool project with a lot of learning opportunities.

true hare Oct 18, 2023, 6:13 PM

#

Looking good! clapclap

You definitely have to sort out the umbilical cable asap (I assume it's temporary…)

I've noticed that the carriages on the Hydra arms move quite a bit during fast moves. By the looks of it, the frame may not be rigid enough for such speeds? Not sure though because I don't own a plus...

bleak birch Oct 18, 2023, 6:19 PM

#

true hare Looking good! <a:clapclap:872887405017976863> You definitely have to sort out ...

Yes. The umbilical cable is getting a PG7 cable gland to help out that situation.

The video is just me doing speed testing in which I noticed the same thing. Definitely won’t be printing at such speed/accelerations.

The printer also needs some feet to help dampen some of the vibrations. Not sure whether I’ll do TPU feet or order some.

true hare Oct 18, 2023, 6:33 PM

#

I'm noticing you're a voron owner so you surely know where to look, but just in case the Tiny-T has a nice PG7 cable gland mount on the A motor, May want to take a look at that.

I’ve used TPU and TPE feet for a while on different printers. It may take several tries with different wall count and infill percentage to get a proper dampening. Eventually I ditched those and use rubber feet on all of my machines.

bleak birch Oct 18, 2023, 6:50 PM

#

Already planning on using the A motor mount for the PG7 cable. Currently printing that off.

Good to know, I’ll probably just order some rubber feet in that case

true hare Oct 18, 2023, 6:51 PM

#

👍🏽

spice gate Nov 3, 2023, 2:57 PM

#

@bleak birch Very nice build, and thanks for the link to the CAD. Going to get started on printing some parts shortly. As far as making this frame a bit more rigid, I would suggest printing some of those angled frame reinforcements. I thought they wouldn't really do anything, but I was wrong. Its not quite night and day, but it is a definite improvement. Cheers

bleak birch Nov 3, 2023, 3:32 PM

#

spice gate <@140335269382455296> Very nice build, and thanks for the link to the CAD. Going...

Yes, I remixed some I found and I’m using them in 6 of the corners on the right and left side

silent rain Nov 9, 2023, 1:46 PM

#

What happend to the leg of the table

bleak birch Nov 9, 2023, 11:26 PM

#

What do you mean? The dust?

My setup is in my basement so it’s just kinda dirty/dusty down there

silent rain Nov 13, 2023, 10:35 AM

#

it looks burned

bleak birch Nov 13, 2023, 7:06 PM

#

silent rain it looks burned

It’s just dust

unborn zinc Jan 14, 2024, 7:04 PM

#

Hi, i want thank you @bleak birch for this awesome build and especially cad file, I had previously build the mercury zero g with stealthburner but I didn't liked it at all 😥 so after countless hours of build, search, and waiting for parts i finally made 80% of my build I am missing only panels and i will install exhaust grill with BTT sfs 2.0 sensor

Running currently with

BTT Manta E3EZ with CB1
Clone V6 from AliExpress
Clone hydra bed from AliExpress
OV5640 Angrycam mod
BTT SB2209
CNC TAP V2
Stock RSP 500 - 24
Running stock 2 Z ( damn hot while printing ), Y, X motors from E5+ will be replaced later

#

bleak birch Jan 14, 2024, 7:06 PM

#

Looks great!

true hare Jan 14, 2024, 7:07 PM

#

@bleak birch certainly started a trend 🤣🤣🤣
This is one mean machine!

unborn zinc Jan 14, 2024, 7:08 PM

#

Damn clean build I love that 🔥

true hare Jan 14, 2024, 7:09 PM

#

Thanks! 😁
Eventually it's more a Trident than a Mercury (skirts and all), but still, works great!

unborn zinc Jan 14, 2024, 7:10 PM

#

Dope build, do you have plans to add heated chamber guys?

#

I saw someone did it for 2.4 I don't remember exactly

true hare Jan 14, 2024, 7:18 PM

#

On a previous Merc build I had 2x400W heaters running off 2x480 Meanwell SDRs, and was happily doing ABS/ASA at 75c chamber temps with a well insulated chamber. This "Tri-Hydra" build has a rather limited power budget - 1x 150W 24V PSU + 1x 150W 48V PSU, both are meanwell HDR series. I was thinking of adding a "backpack" with a beefy PSU to run the heaters from, as well as adding a water pump for stepper cooling, but meh... The footprint of this machine is already too large for its build volume (275^3).
Also, running such temps took a toll on the Merc. Doing it the right way requires too much investment. I considered a proper HT build but eventually built a Tridex instead 🤣

bleak birch Jan 14, 2024, 7:26 PM

#

I have no intention of adding a chamber heater, but I’ve not run into a problem printing without one.

true hare Jan 14, 2024, 7:34 PM

#

Moderate and stable chamber temps (say 60-70c) could be beneficial when printing ABS/ASA/PC, but obviously not a must. There are certain benefits to inter-layer adhesion but it requires way to many additions. Fans and heatsinks don't serve much purpose with high temp ambient air, so liquid cooling is highly recommended. Bottom line - going high temp is only needed if one wants to do something irrational as printing PEEK on his DIY machine (@warm tendon knows a thing or two about these things 🤣 😆 )

#E5+ "Tri-dra" conversion