SUAFT - AC & HEPA filter for enclosures

[sly cliff]

tysm

[final valve]

no, thank you. great work

[final valve]

i wonder how much efficiency is gained or loss by using a strong fan

[calm steeple]

more static pressure should help

[severe matrix]

did anyone tried to use cpap to both filter the air and still be able to some extent part cooling? the ws7040 has ~20x the static pressure of a good 5015 blower 😅

arg, dumb idea sorry… even if it works you wouldn’t be able to filter on asa/abs and others, until the end of the printer, at least it will be limited to the cooling speed for the material 😅

[final valve]

I ended up ordering the 24v version of this fan

[calm steeple]

let us know how well it works

[final valve]

https://tenor.com/view/m4rkdoll-gif-1098643633165005432

[final valve]

Unless you made a tee, with branch end open and used a servo as a valve on the second run of the tee 🤔

[severe matrix]

hmm, my objective was to save on parts.. this usually lead to spend more money and go into rabbit holes 😁

and finally do the thing as it was originally designed

[final valve]

Hey @sly cliff i just got my filters. have you experimented with adding a pressure point to the top cap so it squeezes down into the foam gasket on the top filter, as well as adding presure to the filter so it pushes the bottom gasket down

[sly cliff]

the top cap has a bit of a lip and squeezes on the filter's gasket 🙂

[final valve]

i clicked on the link from the BOM source guide on your github. maybe the filters changed? or maybe i ordered the wrong ones?

[lofty elm]

I ordered these https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005005139375365.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.53.2cda79d2uuhTVs&gatewayAdapt=glo2nld

[final valve]

interesting

[lofty elm]

it almost look like the foam on your filter is thinner

[final valve]

overall length of filter is 73mm, 75mm with gaskets. meaning gaskets protrude 1mm on each end

on amazon theyre called out at 3.1inches/ 78.74mm.

[lofty elm]

hmm mine is 78.50

[final valve]

i guess with so many types its bound to happen. nbd, ill just do this

3.6mm lip to acount for the lost size

[sly cliff]

there's a definite difference in tolerance with these filters. I was careful to make the lip work even without the filter in place, so shorter ones should not be affected

I'm guessing the difference comes in large part to the thickness of gasket used

ah, I see @lofty elm mentions the thickness above

[final valve]

ah ok gottcha. i guess i was looking at it as 'bypass' space.

[sly cliff]

hmm...i may be wrong here

one sec

cuz with a gap, there's no pressure seal, yes I see your concern

[final valve]

for your pleasure

[sly cliff]

ooh, nice!

that was exactly my thinking

[final valve]

im wondering how many other versions would be needed. kinda have it as a "check your filter length and pick the right cap"

i didnt want to reprint the filter housing so i saw this as next best option

[sly cliff]

i like your idea about cap variations. I can make that parametric easily

[final valve]

yup, chamfer matches extrusion distance. i have 21min left on that step file i just sent. ill let you know when its finished

[final valve]

It makes contact at 3.6 just barely, so I’ll try 4.2 next

[final valve]

4.2 worked perfect

[final valve]

The strong delta fan i ordered will be here sometime this week

[final valve]

just need to look into one for my x1 now...

[dark tundra]

Bentobox may be better for the X1 right?

Bc of it's small formfactor?

[final valve]

ive seen conflicting things on it. people who get it right away love it, but after some time of use theyve come back and said "yeah no this thing isnt great"

[dark tundra]

Ahh I see

[sly cliff]

it pushes, instead of pulls. it also uses box fans instead of radial. they're not meant for that application.

[random wedge]

Could a printer benefit in any way from having 2 SUAFT's?

[final valve]

interesting. It shows them pulling down to the bottom. i.e., air blows towards sticker side of fan usually

[sly cliff]

one for enclosure exhaust, sure

[sly cliff]

ahh, i may have misunderstood that aspect, then. the point about fan choice is, unfortunately, still valid. box fans don't handle high static pressure (unless they are deep).

[final valve]

indeed i do agree there

[random wedge]

Cool, wanted it to be more symmetrical (ish) so figured one on each side

[sly cliff]

that's how I plan to get my enclosure setup when i get to it, lol

i have entered That Phase of Building

[random wedge]

I haven't even started building, much less thinking about an enclosure, feel free to let me know how you end up doing yours.

[final valve]

inb4 custom mirrored fan housing

[random wedge]

Give me enough time and I will (that's a lie)

[final valve]

kinda like the stealthburner had you take apart a perfectly good 5015

[sly cliff]

I really tried to avoid taking apart fans with these filters. I find disassembling something frustrating, because it prevents repurposing.

[final valve]

i do agree

[random wedge]

Oh yeah, is there any data on how these perform printing ASA/ABS, currently have a small apartment setup, so it ended up in my bedroom.

Would like to not inhale too much stuff, if possible

[sly cliff]

nothing scientific, but there's a graph in the pinned posts

[random wedge]

I'll have a look, thanks

[final valve]

@sly cliff is there any planned future for the project at the moment? or to-do lists. I'm interested in contributing

[sly cliff]

not a lot, although I never designed a good coupler for exhaust. I thought about using cpap hoses, since i have both diameters. just never got around to it. i'd prefer it be a press-fit on the fan exhaust housing, but i'm not too picky about how.

[sly cliff]

so...i guess sure? lol.

[final valve]

Got both fans in…delta really moves air.

[sly cliff]

yes they do. crazy fans.

[finite wyvern]

Got mine printed and it’s ready to go as soon as I get the active carbon …. and the printer is actually running.

[sly cliff]

that looks awesome. love the color choices.

[dark tundra]

Well this is magic.

I don't smell anything in mine so far.

Ty Jon for this. I can finally print some ABS without it being stinky lol.

[dark tundra]

I've got this going for me for temp control. 35C is good enough for my Prusa to get ABS to not warp, plus the hotend is doodoo so I'm trying not to get it to heatcreep.

Turns off when ambient temp is at 34.5C then turns on again once it drops.

I think I'm gonna buy one more 120mm fan for another SUAFT within the chamber 😂

[final valve]

im very excited to get mine fitted in my beta enclosure with the delta fan i bought once i get that up.

[dark tundra]

@final valve You had the 120mm from GDS right?

[final valve]

i bought a gds and a delta

[dark tundra]

Are ya gonna do two SUAFTS?

[final valve]

depends. delta MOVES, so might only need one. but its loud. going to figure itout when i get it in the printer

left is GDS, right is DELTA

[dark tundra]

Ah okie. I think I need one more SUAFT because of the big ass Creality enclosure.

Double the filtration as well xD

JEEZ that delta moves.

How much was the delta?

[final valve]

because ill have hard panels on my enclosure top, im going to explore top mount

[final valve]

$30 something USD

[dark tundra]

Ahhh nothing on amazon.

I'll just grab another GDStime.

[final valve]

Delta BFB1224GH-AF00

[dark tundra]

Amazon is tripping

[final valve]

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delta-Electronics/BFB1224GH-AF00?qs=%2FW4LtXOBxKsYYNuwBsF1Og%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

[dark tundra]

Ahhh ty.

[final valve]

its like 2/3 day shipping

theres also a 12v pwm version it seems

[sly cliff]

beg pardon?

[violet trellis]

I have been playing with cad to have a base that works with the filter and top from the 120mm fan sauft that works with a mellow cpap. Just trying to sort out mounting.

[final valve]

What’s the static on the mellow fan?

[finite wyvern]

Did you swap out the molex connector for a jst and just plug it into a fan port?

[fallow saddle]

You can absolutely do that, I had these laying around so I used them. This goes into a longer cable that runs to the main board

[fallow saddle]

^^^

[finite wyvern]

Excellent! I want to run a extension wire so that I can just disconnect it above the table and move it, if I need to.

[fallow saddle]

Thats what I did.

[light elk]

You could always try your luck 😅 : https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805256722193.html

[dark tundra]

Oh goodness.

[light elk]

That listing doesn't have the tach wire though

[dark tundra]

Oh

[light elk]

Doesn't! Sorry I was typing faster than I was thinking. Doesn't have the 3rd wire.

[dark tundra]

LOL

It's okay, thanks for keeping an eye out.

I think two suafts shouldn't be an issue haha.

[final valve]

I think the -AF00 is the one with a tach wire

[light elk]

Ok this is where I would normally say "I think your mom is the one with a tach wire..." but I'm trying to contain myself because I'm a grown-up... I swear...

[dark tundra]

LMAO.

You know who else is with a tach wire?

https://tenor.com/view/regular-show-my-mom-shirt-swing-trash-talk-bye-gif-5037821

@light elk

[snow sentinel]

I built one of these finally. Seems to have about 5x the airflow of the Bento box while being quieter. Only problem is there's no... mounting

[primal orbit]

Quieter than a bentobox... I might have to switch, especially if there is a way to mount it soon :P

[snow sentinel]

I have to find out if these are thin enough to fit behind the rear Z Screw in my F400, if they are, I'm about to build like, 4 more of them.

[final valve]

I keep looking inside my bambu to figure out where i can fit this. Bentobox seems eh

[sly cliff]

you should be able to use the fan screw mounts

[dark tundra]

So the Prusa enclosure I bought came with a 120 fan for it's HEPA filter...that HEPA filter it was using was garbage.

I installed the heatserts and transferred my existing SUAFT setup there. No more stink!

Also Jon, when are you gonna add the 120mm documentation? I'd like to share it to another discord so they can see your work 👀

[sly cliff]

that's a good question. i'll try and get an answer for you. 🙂

[graceful kestrel]

Ok i may just be slow but i cannot find the stl for the base that goes underneath the HEPA filter

[final valve]

@graceful kestrel

[calm steeple]

@sly cliff do you have the dimensions of the 3 versions of SUAFT? need to figure which one fits the rat

[sly cliff]

1 and 2 are meant to be no more than 80mm on one side

i.e. fit in a space 80mm wide if turned the right way

lemme get a tape measure, since i have all three builds here

v2 - 165mm x 85mm

v1 - 78mm x 120mm

v3 - 120mm x 120mm

i am working out how to a "remote intake" version of v3/SUAFT 120, so the filter will be up high and fan wherever. duct via a cpap hose.

[calm steeple]

meh v3 won't fit 😭

[sly cliff]

got a thing going here. CPAP hose to separate the filter and fan

here's the bottom

you'll need two, but one needs a mounting method (the top one where the filter will sit). Looking for suggestions on this.

[final valve]

Would it be silly to consider using something like pex tubing or similar as the hose? This way you don’t lose any pressure or velocity to internal hose ribbing

[sly cliff]

the air pressure is already pretty low, I doubt it would make much difference

the AC tank + HEPA add a lot of resistance to airflow

[final valve]

thats why i started thinking about smooth tubing

[sly cliff]

i'm not certain, but i really don't think low velocity + low pressure airflow will feel much turbulence from the ribbing.

[final valve]

ill take it

oh the other thing is creating suction pressure that would 'collpase' the walls inward. essentialy between the filter and suction of the fan, a vaccuum is created

[sly cliff]

the coils built into the cpap walls should prevent that, i think

i see what you mean, though

[final valve]

i would think they should. theyre designed for positive air pressure

[stone sphinx]

Really looking forward to seeing what you come up with for a mounting solution and docs for a 120mm version 🤞

And does the 120mm version use the same filter as the normal size?

[calm steeple]

trying to figure out how to attach either v1 or v2 on a 3030

[violet trellis]

This is the CPAP mod I have been working on. The blower is connected the the bottom of the 2 part base and then that connects to the top part of the base. I was thinking of mounting the base either side of an internal panel with a hole in it.

[sly cliff]

yes indeed

[sly cliff]

that. is. delightful. ❤️

[violet trellis]

lol you can say what you really think, it’s more for my own enclosure configuration.

[sly cliff]

i like it. looks clean

[violet trellis]

The filter and filter cap are unchanged, the connecting part of the bottom part is the same too, so it’s magnetic to take the filter off to change it.

[sly cliff]

nice. this will work with the CPAP hose mod I'm doing, too 🙂

[sly cliff]

i am running in circles here.

trying to get things in motion with the docs and finding i've got other stuff to do first

[calm steeple]

@sly cliff would v2 work upside down?

[sly cliff]

yes

or sideways

[calm steeple]

doesn't the carbon pack attach magnetically?

[sly cliff]

yes, it uses enough magnets to stay on now

[calm steeple]

alright

[sly cliff]

uhhhh make sure that's the version you have...

one sec.

[calm steeple]

not printing any yet

it's for the rat

best spot for it seems to be back top

[sly cliff]

oh, yep, it's current on git. 8 magnets is secure enough even when full.

[sly cliff]

are you sure you can't fit a 120mm in there somewhere and drive it with a CPAP hose?

[calm steeple]

need to make a mount for 3030

[sly cliff]

you only need 120x120x40mm. the rest is small if the hose if out of the way.

[calm steeple]

hmm that's fan size right?

how about filter itself

80?

[sly cliff]

99mm diameter

82mm high

i am working on how to mount the filter away from the fan this week

[calm steeple]

I'm just thinking which fan to order

best spot for filter would be top or bottom?

[sly cliff]

filter up top, fan on bottom

[calm steeple]

hmm

I can fit the filter in the top back and the fan on the bottom

[sly cliff]

exactly my thinking

[calm steeple]

it's not urgent yet I'll delay the purchase

[sly cliff]

makes sense

[sly cliff]

first commit for suaft 120 docs is in (it's not live, though)

[sly cliff]

in the home stretch, yo.

[light elk]

I printed one of the big 120mm ones for my 2nd Merc. Looking to install it as soon as I have it back together. Did you say something about a more secure mount for it in the future?

It looks nice in glow in the dark. 😅

[sly cliff]

i am trying to decouple the fan and the filter tank, so you can have the fan anywhere and the filter at the top (with a cpap hose between)

once I've figured out how to mount the filter tank, i'll start testing

https://jon-harper.github.io/air_filter/
DONE

[stone sphinx]

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mMSYbux

im thinking about this gdstime fan, the 24v double ball bearing version. I assume that having higher cfm is better for the suaft? At the cost of noise?

[final valve]

yeah if you wanta vacuum cleaner: delta BFB1224GH-AF00

[stone sphinx]

$54 from digikey Australia, ouch!!!

And 65 decibel average yikes

[final valve]

i ordered the gdstime and delta

gds is realistic

[stone sphinx]

Yeah I think gdstime will be plenty for me

Any good suppliers of activated carbon on AliExpress?

[final valve]

dont cheap out on AC. try to find the stuff in the BOM

[light elk]

If you want a Delta BFB1224GH but don't care about the tach wire: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805256722193.html

I ordered one.

Looks like you could even solder in a tach wire. I'm waiting on the AF00 version to get here to compare.

[stone sphinx]

If I plug the 2pin gdstime fan into a spare 24v heater port, will I be able to control the fan speed in klipper?

[calm steeple]

yes

[obtuse escarp]

1.92A isnt that a bit much? 😮

[sly cliff]

lol the GDSTIME 12v one is 12W...that's like 45ish Watts?

[final valve]

Wait what

[sly cliff]

@light elk 's fan is 1.92A@24V

[final valve]

Ohhhhhhh

[light elk]

The AF00 is also 1.92A

[light elk]

46W max. 😅

[dark tundra]

The magnets are strong enough. Might need to replace them every 3 months because of the heat though.

[stone sphinx]

That’s a cool mounting spot

[dark tundra]

Ty

[sly cliff]

that is gorgeous

[sly cliff]

oof, okay. i'll think on this point.

what chamber temps are you reaching?

https://www.first4magnets.com/us/circular-disc-rod-c34/samarium-cobalt-disc-magnet-6mm-dia-x-3mm-thick-1-54lbs-pull-p6350#ps_0_6546|ps_1_6560

[final valve]

Yeah high temp magnets are the move

[sly cliff]

"the move"?

i no process words good

[sly cliff]

halfway there. cpap hose works for 22mm hoses (19mm ID). i will do a 15mm hose later, but i suspect it will restrict airflow too much.

now for mounting

[sly cliff]

if high temp magnets are an issue, i can make a latching version, too

but i need a latch mechanism

a twisting lock seems most appropriate

back in a sec. gonna have a think.

[sly cliff]

sent to print

[sly cliff]

sigh.

a latching mechanism should be easy, and i think i'm making it harder than it should be.

ball-and-groove will do fine, i bet.

[primal orbit]

the best way to go about it

[sly cliff]

ahhh, okay

i bet fabreeko has something along those lines

huh, bingo

[sly cliff]

i ordered 50 high temp magnets for $5. we'll see if they're good or amazon grade

[stone sphinx]

I think having the filter vertical might be optimal

[violet trellis]

Key hole slot twist latching, use button head screws for the pins. If you make it taper with the twist it could almost lock into place.

[sly cliff]

yassssss

[calm steeple]

or add just 2 or 3 magnets so it only needs to lock rotation not the whole thing

if doing this I would suggest threading on the plastic

[final valve]

like a quarter turn kind of?

[sly cliff]

exactly

i was thinking similarly, but a latching method evaded me

[sly cliff]

figuring out how to generate the path for the screw head in the filter base will be fun.

gonna start with a path...

ooh, i got it, i think

[sly cliff]

pla first for fit, then over to abs/asa

[calm steeple]

yup

looking good

[final valve]

is there a little notch towards teh ends of the screw path?

like a detent to feel that its at the end, and also wont want to move freely

[sly cliff]

no notch, instead the path for the screw head narrows

[final valve]

gotcha

[sly cliff]

it's def not final, so we will see how it goes

[final valve]

is it using m5 heat serts?

[snow sentinel]

What's the story with the hose adapter?

[final valve]

once upon a time...

[sly cliff]

nope, those are m3 button heads. no inserts, so it doesn't work itself out

[final valve]

i was going to say, loctite if so

[sly cliff]

almost done. made some changes to the top bit today. i have this print i started now to finish, then i'm gonna see if i can do some asa in a cold garage.

once i have an asa version done...i can test!

release for broader testing this week, for sure

[snow sentinel]

No I mean like... why?

I'm struggling to figure out why it's needed?

[sly cliff]

Space and circulation

air enters up top and leaves down low

[final valve]

put filter up high and fan down low

[sly cliff]

or with exhaust, the fan can be somewhere arbitrary to fit an exhaust port

[sly cliff]

first test: not great. gonna work on it in the morning so the channel has a lock or more friction

[sly cliff]

latching is on hold until i figure that out. magnets looks about ready for testing

[sly cliff]

@final valve see below

these are for testing, not final

[final valve]

i can also do that

[dark tundra]

I'm just going around 50C I believe.

I'll grab one of those magnets.

Jon, did you get an answer whether they are or not?

ChatGPT says: N52 neodymium magnets are a grade of rare-earth magnets, known for their strong magnetic properties. However, they do have limitations when it comes to temperature tolerance.

The temperature resistance of an N52 magnet typically ranges between 80°C to 100°C (176°F to 212°F). At temperatures above this range, the magnet's magnetic properties will degrade, and it may lose its magnetism permanently if exposed to temperatures above the maximum rated temperature.

In summary, N52 Neodymium magnets (6x3mm) are not rated for high temperatures beyond around 80°C to 100°C, and they will lose strength or even demagnetize if exposed to heat beyond that range. If you need magnets for high-temperature applications, you may need to look for a magnet with a higher temperature rating, such as those made of samarium-cobalt (SmCo), which can withstand higher temperatures.

So they're probably gonna be alright because I'm planning to up it to 60C.

[sly cliff]

thx!

i got 50 high temp ones coming in a few weeks

off of amazon, the slow delivery way

[violet trellis]

I can get some 6x3 n42sh magnets, 150c high temp

[sly cliff]

go for it!

[violet trellis]

lol what I meant was, if I can get them you guys over there should be able too. Had half that convo in my head.

Sh at the end of the rating is extra high heat, h is high heat up to 120c.

[sly cliff]

hehe, i have that happen to me, too. I have some 150C magnets that will be here in a few weeks.

[stone sphinx]

SUAFT 120 coming along nicely

[sly cliff]

looks good!

[stone sphinx]

If I could suggest one improvement: maybe make the holes for the m3 heat set inserts deeper just in case people can’t source m3x6mm and only have longer screws

[sly cliff]

ohhhhh that's a very good point. thank you, I will do that.

normally I leave that room...not sure what happened

[final valve]

https://youtu.be/QCTS14ompmA?t=329

SUAFT is better IMO

[primal orbit]

Oh yea I saw that thing

[sly cliff]

interesting design. i like the inserts for mounting parts

it pulls through the filter properly, which is 50% of the goal, lol

[final valve]

I do like the wall mounting

[sly cliff]

yes, definitely. that add-on for mounting is gonna get repurposed...

[stone sphinx]

Filter and fan arrived today. I wasn’t expecting the 120x32 mm blower fan to be so … girthy

[sly cliff]

it's a good thing it can't go in reverse. it might make beeping noises.

[stone sphinx]

Hey Jon, got a few more ideas for you.

1. Maybe a tpu seal between the fan and the base plate to help with leaking air? 1mm or less I think could work
2. I had a bit of issue aligning the fan to the base plate, could have been because my heat set inserts weren’t in the weight spot or the gdstime fan is a tiny bit off spec. Either way, making the m3 screw thread and head holes a teensy bit bigger could give it some play in the x-y place which would make it easier to install. I had to drill out my holes to 3.5mm and also put tension into the baseplate to get it aligned to the fan

[snow sentinel]

Ah damn. The 120 doesn't fit in my F400's enclosure.

[lofty elm]

you better make a mount like that for us 😝

[final valve]

All of them were off? Only 3 screws will line up

[violet trellis]

You can get m3x6 yea?

[stone sphinx]

When 2 were in, the 3rd was out

[stone sphinx]

Yeah will get them off of eBay

[violet trellis]

Boltandnut.com.au is where I get mine

[stone sphinx]

Yikes! Compared the price of m3x6 g304 SS, qty 20, and boltandnit is almost 3x the price

[violet trellis]

Yea I normally get 100 of qty

[stone sphinx]

Okay yea at qty 100, boltandnut beats the eBay store I was using

Not sure what I’d do with 100 m3x6 though

[sly cliff]

oooh very interesting.

[final valve]

also strange because i ordered a gdstime fan and it worked fine

and on a delta too

[sly cliff]

TODO

• M3x8mm support
• Mounting methods (a la RatPack)
• Remote intake testing/polish (not working well)
• Merge in Michal's doc site fixes/improvements
• dual hose remote intake?

Additions welcome!

[final valve]

Multi house intake 😱

[sly cliff]

so, vacation hasn't gone ideally. it's been fun, but i'm not sleeping well here. gonna head home today and work on SUAFT there. with my cats (and printers).

[sly cliff]

multiple intake will provide some overhang questions that need solving

maybe one straight up and one at a 45 degree angle

or both at 45?

both at 30, still leaves the question of overhangs in the very center

[sly cliff]

making progress. it's a bunch of unintuitive lofts

ohhhh i see

i need to make the volume first, then hollow it

[final valve]

i guess it depends, i see mroe people mounting this in a corner of the printer rather than the center. if its in the corner, one straight one angled would be ideal for hose routing

[sly cliff]

maybe if i move the intakes closer together and give them less of a slant

keep the full bend of both hoses inside the 120mm diameter of the fan

[sly cliff]

gotta make a bottom bit that doesn't have mounting holes

[final valve]

Would it make sense to have a tpu flap on both sides? In case you only run one fan?

[sly cliff]

on both sides where? the intake hose thing?

[final valve]

I think so

Like a 1 or 2 layer tpu flap

[sly cliff]

like a gasket?

[sly cliff]

like a gasket that would sit between the two piecs? are you thinking in terms of leaking air?

[final valve]

Im saying if you only end up using one fan, you will lose suction because of the other fan being open

[sly cliff]

ohhh, you can use a single pieces intake instead of the dual

[final valve]

Yeah i guess that’s the right move

Like if you usually run abs but then switch to pla and dont need the full blast

I guess i raised a moot point

Don’t mind me

[sly cliff]

can't sound board without random ideas, though

hmm. you could control the airflow with the mcu for pla, btw.

run it at 40%, maybe? the second intake is meant to only run for exhaust, as well.

[final valve]

Yep. Fair point

[snow sentinel]

Does a single fan have enough jam for two filter intakes?

[sly cliff]

are you thinking using two hoses from one filter to one fan?

or intake from two locations?

[snow sentinel]

Intake from two locations

Using high-mounted filters in the two back corners of my F400 probably flips the script on the 120mm fan being too large. (I'll print the two hose part in PLA just to check fitment)

[sly cliff]

hrm. i dunno. i think this is a "let's try it and find out" situation 😄

[snow sentinel]

volunteers for fuck around and find out!

Do I have any cpap tube? No. Is that a problem Amazon can solve? YES.

[final valve]

literally my job description

[sly cliff]

alpha testing?

[final valve]

R&D

[sly cliff]

alpha testing high explosives?

[final valve]

depends on the fan and static pressures. you have to keep in mind, air, like anything that flow will find the path of least resistance. you could create a situation where one filter is more active than the other [visually 90% vs 10%]

[final valve]

high explosives? no i prefer the ones that are short

[snow sentinel]

Yeah. That's my only fear. But I don't think I have enough space in the bottom of this printer for two spots where a 120mm blower could live.

Or rather, two spots where one could live and have a hose come out of it

The printer is bigger than student debt.

[final valve]

i ordered what i think is the highest power form factor fan i could find. its a delta fan

60CFM @ 4inH2O

[sly cliff]

oh my. what size is it? 120x38?

[final valve]

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Delta-Electronics/BFB1224GH-AF00?qs=%2FW4LtXOBxKsYYNuwBsF1Og%3D%3D&countryCode=US&currencyCode=USD

dat one. 32mm same as gdstime

[sly cliff]

good lord. gonna need ear muffs.

and 38W! lol this fan is insane.

ooh and a tach, that's nice.

[snow sentinel]

Tbh I already need ear muffs around the F400

The two PSU fans are that exact speed and frequency to let you know that they are there at all times

And if it wasnt like a stupidly large 24v PSU, I'd replace it. But alas, this printer, for now, has a 24v 400x400mm bed

[sly cliff]

how many watts is that? 600 or more?

[snow sentinel]

Yeah. It has to be based on the draw that my UPS reports when the machine is heating

I don't know the exact number because the label wasn't facing me and I'm not extracting it from its prison

Hold on I have a picture of said prison

[final valve]

takeoff fans are up to 58db 🙂

[snow sentinel]

Yeah. That's a SSR being used to switch the DC voltage for the bed.

But like that PSU is like, at least 600w.

Also that's an older picture now. Now there's labeled wiring and fans.

[sly cliff]

that PSU looks like an SE

i think i have a 450SE

[snow sentinel]

It's from 2016. This printer is ancient. It's a CoreXY design from 2016.

Belts are for cowards.

[sly cliff]

er, huh?

wear suspenders instead?

[snow sentinel]

Kevlar string

[sly cliff]

oh god

[snow sentinel]

Works great.

[sly cliff]

expensive?

[snow sentinel]

This thing was expensive back then

I got it cheap and used.

[sly cliff]

i mean are the kevlar string expesnive?

[snow sentinel]

No idea.

[sly cliff]

that's fair, lol

[snow sentinel]

Haven't had to replace it

And the manual implies that unless you fuck up, you should never, ever have to replace it

[sly cliff]

okay that's cool

[snow sentinel]

It's very cool.

And I converted it to Klipper because I hate ancient RRF.

[sly cliff]

good quality on the bed?

or is it a mesh nightmare?

[snow sentinel]

So it's a glass bed.

And right now I have it printing like... it's 2016.

No probe. No mesh. Just adjusting bed screws at the first layer

I have a Revo Voron PZ Probe to put on this thing when I gather up the give a shit to do the thing.

Another option I'm entertaining is replacing the bed entirely with a Voron 2.4 bed. The bed may be 400x400 but the printable area is only 355x355

But with the prints I have done on it, when this thing gets rolling, it's very good at what it does.

My use for it is mostly large prints with a large nozzle for Not Waiting purposes.

[final valve]

replace it with a vacuum bed

[sly cliff]

i like that

[snow sentinel]

But I am looking at putting your filter into it because there's starting to be a bigger venn diagram between "Things I want large" and "Things that are printed from ASA"

[sly cliff]

how hot does your enclosure get? ambient temps need to be high if you're doing large asa parts.

[snow sentinel]

Well, that's one of the only nice things about a 24v bed that large.

It takes forever to heat and the enclosure gets nice and warm as part of that process.

The last time I printed PETG on it it legitimately took 15 minutes to reach 90c

(Hence why I'm considering putting a Voron 2.4 bed on it)

But I have some big nozzles to use on this guy. And I want to make sure that when I'm doing stupid things with it, I'm not being stupid.

[sly cliff]

i have a plus for my big prints. i prolly should switch to a .6 nozzle

[snow sentinel]

I have the whole set of Revo nozzles aside from the .15

And everything over 1.0 I have in a high temp high flow variant.

I cannot wait to do flow calibration on a 1.0 nozzle (I can in fact, wait)

but like, Klipper has already vastly improved this printer.

The RRF config that Fusion3 shipped on this thing ran all 4 motors at at least 1.5a

Including the Extruder.

Since converting it there's been a sharp reduction in things that will burn you instantly inside this printer. The fan port for the Extruder seems somewhat useless now.

[final valve]

Im thinking of putting the fan in the ebay with the filter and pulling pushing from the enclosure. Not sure how well that would work

[simple frost]

Have you also seen the new RatRig fume filter (as an alternative solution)?

[final valve]

Yeah, i need tolook back at it

I have a plus so i have a large open space in my ebay

[vivid dagger]

Just built the new suaft 120 and I can't smell any hint of fumes from my printer. This thing is awesome!

[final valve]

@sly cliff where did u plan to mount the hose versions?

[final valve]

@lofty elm

[sly cliff]

probably rear corner. attach to an extrusion.

[final valve]

I just tried the remote instant with a 2.5 ft hose. The fan is definitely weaker

[final valve]

That printed gorgeous!

[lofty elm]

yeah but not perfectly round I think something going on with one of the motor towers

[final valve]

Made the fan base and filter one component so i can hang the filter like this

[lofty elm]

oo nice idea

[final valve]

not sure if i want to leave it in that exact spot

[lofty elm]

I would set it somewhere middle of your printer because I think if its that heigh it can warp your prints if you print ABS or ASA

[final valve]

hmmmm. i dont know where else is a decent spot. ill try it out here for now

[sly cliff]

too weak to be usable?

[final valve]

if i have to attach a value to it, it was at least 60% weaker

[sly cliff]

hmm. that sounds about right, though. tubing is highly constrictive.

[final valve]

yeah. i dont think these fans want tubes on suction. there might be another type of fan for tubes?

or a larger designed duct that has the same cross sectional area +5-10% of the fan suction inlet

[vivid dagger]

At that point just get another CPAP fan

[sly cliff]

tubes in general are highly constrictive. any fan will lose suction through a hose. it's just a question of whether that loss is acceptable or not.

radial fans are good in these circumstances, fwiw. better than axial/box fans

[final valve]

what im saying is like a 3inch tube

square tube maybe

[sly cliff]

i'll have a think on this

[final valve]

the other reason im thinking square tube is for fitment on beta frame

[sly cliff]

for attaching?

[final valve]

to act as the elevator between fan and filter

so i have a plus and i do not have a pro size. but basically theres a huge gap in the back, and the sides kinda

[sly cliff]

hmm. square isn't as advantageous for airflow, but maybe if it were surrounded by a square case

[final valve]

i also need to try to print thesefan casing in white....

[final valve]

This delta fan will not be staying. Too loud at 100% and too much cool whine at any other percentage (100,75,50,25 shown). I wonder if a pwm model would be better because this thing is not happy not running at 100%

[sly cliff]

good lord that's loud. delta fans are super high rpm.

[final valve]

I thought i could just turn it down for msot of the printer and blast it in end print but coil whine

[final valve]

just for funsies i blew some smoke into the chamber with the filter running, it went thru the filter pretty fast.

[sly cliff]

uh oh, there is not an stl for the hose splitter!

@final valve i was wrong. no stl yet. one sec.

[final valve]

ohhhhh i was thinking more like a 2" x 3" duct

[sly cliff]

ah, i see what you mean

[stone sphinx]

Finally got my suaft wired up. This thing pumps air wow

[sly cliff]

that looks nice!

[tawdry wave]

I'm getting ready to print mine and plan to install similarly - did you combine the two parts in the slicer or in CAD?

[final valve]

Cad

Just a combine function

[tawdry wave]

Thanks,~~ I'll summon the google and see what I can do here. CAD is not a strong skillset for me just yet.~~ I figured it out!

[final valve]

I love sleeving wires

[sly cliff]

that's so clean

[severe magnet]

This project is giving me loads of ideas for my upcoming build (negative chamber pressure valved CPAP). Do you happen to have the 3d models available for the actual HEPA filter you used while prototyping the design of SUAFT-120? I tried to look through the thread but I couldn't seem to find the files for it alone and the size seems perfect for what I'm looking to do.

I did see that there's something of a hose adapter for the SUAFT-120, but I might just start from scratch with that filter as a starting point

[final valve]

It’s in the files on github

[severe magnet]

oh pfft. Turns out I'm bad at looking through files

I thought there was only the .stls available but yeah there's the .step right there

[finite wyvern]

I have considered sleeving my CPAP hose ......... you know, for continuity sake.... 😄

[final valve]

Do it

https://tenor.com/view/doja-cat-star-wars-gif-25078126

[finite wyvern]

Hmmm 🤔 My hose is already black…. Wonder if they make that size in my blue …. to the Google!

[rough sedge]

damn, this looks so clean

[tranquil dagger]

So glad I found this before I started bento box, looks awesome can't wait to get started

[sly cliff]

you'll be much happier with this 🙂

[vivid dagger]

I can print ASA in the same room as my PC with this. No detectable oder or fumes

[snow sentinel]

This is a lot quieter than Bento

Seems to work as well as my bento box did but I seem to have the enigma bento box that just worked fine

[tranquil dagger]

having the option to plug the fan straight into the wall and use a fan controller is great, should be able to set it up with a smart outlet and home assistant to automate it
https://a.co/d/agXKZet (using this version of the linked fan)

[sly cliff]

bento's push-not-pull methodology will naturally be louder, if i understand correctly

[tranquil dagger]

I didnt realize How big the fan was, I understand how this thing moves some air now lol

[vivid dagger]

She blows real good.

[sly cliff]

i need to finish up two SUAFT 120s that are waiting on magnets.

[tranquil dagger]

Once I get my Z rotation distance fixed Im gonna start getting my parts printed, got the fan smart outlet control setup yesterday and filters in the other day. Then after that gotta reprint my E34M1 lol

[snow sentinel]

I use my bento in a pull configuration.

Also I just sliced the two parts together and skipped most of the hardware.

[tranquil dagger]

are there recommended print settings for this? How much infill is really neccesary?

[sly cliff]

no more than 20% infill

3-4 perimeters. really not much is needed to keep it together.

[tranquil dagger]

👍 got it thank you, was going to use zeroG settings but thought they might be overkill

[tranquil dagger]

how well does mounting it like this work? I dont have extrusion but I have some wood I can drill it into lol

[sly cliff]

it should work fine. i designed it to! 🙂

prolly want high temp magnets if it's gonna be up high in your enclosure

[tranquil dagger]

ah okay nice! I dont think mine are high temp didnt think about the heat effecting tem

[sly cliff]

it's not fore sure a problem, more a defensive measure

[tranquil dagger]

have you thought about using a twist lock mechanism instead of the magnet?

[sly cliff]

I did! that was my alternative to the magnets, but they worked so well that I dropped the idea

[tranquil dagger]

well my magnets arent that strong so this is gonne be interesting lol
ah I forgt to measure they are 6mm x 1.6mm

I doubled up the magnets on the filter so I get proper contact and it holds strong now lol

[sly cliff]

yassss

[tranquil dagger]

I am worried about the heat and the magnets but it's done!

[sly cliff]

very nice blue

[tranquil dagger]

Thanks Polymaker same as my motion system parts

[final valve]

I made it one piece like that

[sly cliff]

i'm hoping with high temp magnets it's not a concern at all, but we'll see

[final valve]

It was less about the temp and more about the strength of the magnet while hanging from my observation

[celest basalt]

@sick hare

[remote timber]

Thanks for creating this @sly cliff, I've been using this for a week now and it's perfect!

[sly cliff]

solid color choice!

[vivid dagger]

Just reprinted mine to match the new nebula upgrade

[tranquil dagger]

Finally got to use mine since my enclosure build is still in progress (DIY Not Nebula) it's amazing how well it works even with it not being fully air tight can't smell it in the room, I do wish I had sensors to measure the effectiveness but too many other projects going on.
But even sticking my head into the enclosure it's hard to get a hint of odor

[sly cliff]

i use that sense as a baseline. once i notice the smell more, time to think about how fresh the carbon is. congrats on the enclosure!

[static stream]

Might be a weird question but can i make this work without an enclosure? I cant afford a good enclosure at the moment, hell anything. Or are there solutions that pull the air directly from the toolhead into an air filter (the outside world most likely)

[sly cliff]

🤔

cardboard is your friend here

mount the suaft at the top of your cardboard "enclosure" and you'll be fine (whether attached to printer or cardboard)

[primal orbit]

can vouch for cardboard and some tape

[sly cliff]

i have buddy that had a long-term, 45-50C cardboard enclosure

[primal orbit]

Oh yeah I ran mine at like 53c

[scenic bobcat]

I want to install this on the Mini Merc but I'm curious, what's the total height of it? If it's mounted on the back frame facing inward will the bed clear the end of the filter?

[sly cliff]

slightly under 125mm

[tranquil dagger]

the effect on chamber temp is interesting lol looking at the green I just have an spare 5+ hot end thermistor taped to the wall when Im running the filter its pretty slow to heat up and kind of sits around 37 but when I turn the filter off it quickly heats up 10+ degrees

[scenic bobcat]

What's the best way to control the SUAFT? Right now I have it turning on when the bed heater is activated, just not sure if that's the most effective way to use it.

[lofty elm]

I have it my macro it only activates when I print ABS or ASA

[final valve]

i have it at the top of my start print macro before anything else so it helps move air in the chamber, and then in my end print macro i make it run for 5 minutes after to continue filtering

[scenic bobcat]

@lofty elm asked if I could share the bracket I made for the SUAFT so I thought I'd share it here in case anyone else wanted to use it. It uses 3 M3 heat press inserts to mount the fan. In my case it cleared the rear of the bed on the Mini Merc. Your situation may vary.

[lofty elm]

if it fits your mini merc it will fit my plus

[sly cliff]

this is because it's circulating air. distributing the air evenly causes the sensor to notice

[sly cliff]

that's super cool!

[scenic bobcat]

It has a small channel built into the side for the cable to route through so it doesn't get pinched.

[scenic bobcat]

This filter is the real deal. Printing ASA-CF and absolutely zero odor.

[sonic wren]

How does the SUAFT do on "scrubbing" the air? Trying to reduce the amount of residue buildup in my X1Cs. Also, can it be powered off of the X1C board? @sly cliff

[sly cliff]

should do well. styrene leaves residue and I've heard of Bambu users complaining about this.

not sure about powering it, tbh

[lofty elm]

@scenic bobcat

[visual arrow]

so we enclose the printer, throw the suaft in there, and we no longer have to be concerned about air quality / fumes and ventilation?

[scenic bobcat]

How did the bracket work out for you?

[lofty elm]

print failed my ebb overheated

[scenic bobcat]

That's no bueno

[lofty elm]

maybe I go for ldo nighthawk

[sly cliff]

for 3-6 months of use, or until it starts performing poorly enough. the AC, in particular, will become loaded and gradually stop extracting odor.

AC is like a sponge. once full, it stops absorbing.

[sly cliff]

(but yes, that's the idea)

[celest basalt]

Can I ask, how do you vent OUTSIDE of the chamber? The way I am looking at this design, it needs to vent inside the enclosure.

[sly cliff]

there's no one official approach. you can:

1. Mount an exhaust fan outside your enclosure and the filter inside (cut a hole in the enclosure for unfiltered air to pass through)
2. Use a hose from the fan exhaust (which will cut airflow a lot; I haven't done this yet for this project)
3. Use the filter splitter and put one fan outside (will also cut airflow a lot).
4. Cut an exhaust hole and mount the fan to blow into the hole and out of the enclosure (cut a hole for filtered air to pass through)

[celest basalt]

Could you possibly attach this to a 120mm fan?

[sly cliff]

it is!

it's a 120mm blower

if you mean a standard 120mm x 120mm box fan...no. those don't draw air through confined spaces well. blowers are better for filtration.

[celest basalt]

That's what I was asking. yeah a box fan. My main concern is that I'd like to mount the fan unit on the outside of my enclosure (ACM Panels with a glass top and perspex doors)

That way it draws through the enclosure to the outside.

[sly cliff]

a box fan would require a larger hole than doing the same with the 120mm blower.

one sec

[celest basalt]

So that the SUAFT sits on the inside and draws outside of the enclosure.

[sly cliff]

filter inside, fan outside

[celest basalt]

Yup, exactly that, that way the filtered air gets drawn through.

[sly cliff]

this will be the side of your cutout hole

you can put the magnets inside and the fan outside, just use longer screws

& should do fine then

[celest basalt]

That's what I was hoping for.

You sir, are a star.

I'm halfway through getting my E5+ set up with all the goodies, including watercooled 2504 8mm, full metal gantry, custom Laser Cut lightweight X Gantry, 9mm belts, SLM Hydra Arms, 1000w heated bed, CPAP, ACM Enclosure (the rear panel hasn't been cut yet) and a BTT Manta M8P.

[sly cliff]

that'll be a blast

i should move my plus over to 9mm belts eventually

[celest basalt]

The print head is watercooled too.... so that's going to be a hell of a lot of fun.......

[dark spindle]

How much activated carbon does the SUAFT need? The BOM says <0.5kg but wondering how much actually either weight or volume?

[severe matrix]

well, the active carbon density is 2 g/cm3, so 500g, means 250cm3, which means a quarter litre bottle type of volume

[sly cliff]

79bass is correct, but I think upper bounds. IIRC I made it under 200cm3 and over 150 (again, IIRC)

[dark spindle]

Ok I'm just trying to see if I can get buy with 300g instead of 500.

It's oddly expensive here

[sly cliff]

You should be able to get started, I think. If my math is okay. 🙂

[severe matrix]

just a thought, it might be slightly lower than you need, but my ghetto mentality makes me think; you could add a decoy filling if the space is not completely packed, so you avoid having too much empty space. idk, some wood pellet of similar size of the AC pellets, if you have some, or any thing like that (3d printing waste chopped..)

[dark spindle]

Yeah I thought about doing something like that but I'll just go out and get 500g. I'm coming up with ideas to save like 20$ on a printer that cost me over 2K to build.

[severe matrix]

just don’t use crap AC, it could seriously ruin all the steel parts in your printer

[sly cliff]

acid free acid free acid free

[dark spindle]

I feel like this is a dumb question... should I build the SUAFT v2 or 120? I'm not sure what hte difference is.

[vivid dagger]

120, it sucks real good

[sly cliff]

120. v2 was an intermediary design.

[celest basalt]

ok another question for you good sir, Can it be used on a standard 120mm fan? I would like to fit this to an enclosure I have for my CR10

which will be printing my bits and pieces for my Merc

[sly cliff]

https://jon-harper.github.io/air_filter/v3/bom/

This is what you'll need. Radial 120mm fans only.

[static stream]

Just took a quick look at the BOM of this, you are using a better HEPA filter than the Bambulab X1E xd

[visual arrow]

i already have the magnets, do i look good in terms of BOM?

[sly cliff]

wrong inserts. use the same kind you use for merc

M3 x 5mm OD x 4mm L

[visual arrow]

oh shit good catch

i thought cnc kitchen just didn' tmake the other kind

[sly cliff]

not sure what they offer. the rest looks good though!

[visual arrow]

time to get disappointed by winsinn fans again

[dark spindle]

I've got a question about placement for the SUAFT. I saw some people say that the fan goes on the outside and the filter on the inside of the enclosure. But I also see some people mount the entire thing on the inside. Would mounting on the inside work?

[sly cliff]

yep. the fan outside setup is for exhaust situations.

inside only is good for filtration while maintaining air temps

[dark spindle]

Ok so both are possible. I'm using a soft tent instead of a hard enclosure so I'll have to mount the SUAFT completely inside. I printed a duct for the fan that I can connect to a CPAP tube if I want to exhaust.

[sly cliff]

i also have a soft tent, and that's what I plan to do for exhaust, as well (I need to design a duct)

[dark spindle]

This is what I did. I'm sure that what you design will be a lot nicer 😀

Just missing the CPAP hose.

[sly cliff]

looks good

[scenic bobcat]

Shameless plug time lol. Here's a bracket I made to mount it inside the frame. Worked pretty well. I'm sure there are others too.

#1105863699459219477 message

[sly cliff]

i need to collect these mods into a list

[celest basalt]

Could I use aquarium AC pellets? Crushed down of course. I have a metric fktonne due to my large tanks.

[sly cliff]

only if they are NOT acid washed, i.e. virgin coconut shell

acid washed will do very bad things to your printer's metal components

keep the pellet particles reasonably large to allow airflow. 4-8mm pieces are good.

[celest basalt]

Yeah these ones aren’t acid washed

[dark spindle]

What's the test for acid watch? Just put it in a box with some screws? Or does it need airflow and heat?

[sly cliff]

I'm not sure. I check the packaging and source carefully to avoid answering that question!

🙂

[celest basalt]

Most aquarium activated charcoal isn’t acid washed

[tawdry wave]

Mount for a Plus with a 400 bed - Trying to recess toward back as much as possible to avoid the CPAP and wire harness from catching on this. PLA test print soon.

[tranquil dagger]

Is this on back with filter facing towards print bed?

[tawdry wave]

Yes, was planning to mount at the top in the back like @final valve did with his build. The 400 build plate will contact it if I mount below the bed, and I don't want to lose all that Z travel with this mounted flat at the bottom. I'm concerned with CPAP hose and wire harness clearance. First version suffered from "I don't know how to cad very well" and V2 is in the printer now. This should push it back 5-8 mm or so. Not a ton, but I think every little bit helps. Trying to squeak out a nozzle brush at the back since I have travel behind the bed.

[tawdry wave]

My initial plan will not work, but this bracket will work on the vertical 2040 on the Nebula frame providing bed clearance at the back.

[sly cliff]

huh.

what if I integrate the fan mount/magnet base and bracket?

[celest basalt]

That might work. And yes Jon, I've just seen the difference between the two Phaetus. I'll need to buy the standard if i want the eddy on my build.

I am liking the new nexG ones they have though....

[sly cliff]

i believe those fit on the Dragon mounts

same length

and yes, those are very nice hotends. they fly under the radar because of rapido

[celest basalt]

yup. seriously considering the nexG carbon

https://phaserfpv.com.au/collections/phaetus/products/phaetus-dropeffect-nextg-fiber-extreme-gradient-hotend-pt1000-320-degrees-degrees <--- these bad boys, but I've spent a lot of money with DREMC so I feel a sense of loyalty to him lol

[sly cliff]

That looks longer than the normal one. I think it's a UHF nut, so it won't work.

well, may work on the dragon UHF mount, but not guaranteed

[celest basalt]

fkk

[sly cliff]

it's just a flow boost. get the regular.

[celest basalt]

ok so I'll stay with the rapido lol

[sly cliff]

flow is overrated unless you're doing speed benchy stuff

[celest basalt]

btw, I bought the fans, geez they are big (hears someone say "that's what she said")

[sly cliff]

the filter helps swallow some of the noise, but they are loud at full speed, too.

[celest basalt]

that's not concerning me

[sly cliff]

yeah, my brain followed up with "may want to adjust the fan speed" but didn't type it out 😆

[celest basalt]

LOL

The idea is to build a 1 off printer, that does it all, hence why I am looking at the phaetus rapido or nextG

and because 9mm belt, i'm liking what the other guy has done.

[celest basalt]

oh I just found out you can remove the extender....

it'll turn the rapido 2f into either HF or UHF

[severe matrix]

I just realised that there are larger cpap-like blowers 😨. they basically cost the same as ws7040, this is a wm13075, I’m not sure what the wm vs ws means

[sly cliff]

those are great for CPAP. have not tried them for filtration, but they would work well. the setup and wiring is harder, though.

[violet trellis]

Phaser have had some very bad business practices in the past, kept stealing others product photos and trying to claim they were theirs and some other things. They are like any other place but I know a few people that have had some issues with them with 3d printing stuff.

They also mark things out of stock at almost cost price to get people to click the notify button and put it back up when in stock

[scenic bobcat]

@sly cliff do you mind if I make a mod/redesign for the filter assembly?

[sly cliff]

not at all

[vivid dagger]

gt3

[sly cliff]

wrong channel?

[vivid dagger]

opps, i was searching in the wrong field.

[lofty elm]

@scenic bobcat

[tranquil dagger]

is this inside the nebula frame?

[scenic bobcat]

Mine is inside the Mini Merc, so technically yes. It's unofficially a Nebula build.

[lofty elm]

Yep

[stray ivy]

Can the fan outputs on an octopus handle this fan? Looking at it's specs, I think it is okay, but wanted to double check before I fry something.

[stray ivy]

Also, do you normally just enable the filter in the start code and turn off the the end print?

[sly cliff]

it definitely can, yes

[sly cliff]

that might work, but not 100%. find a low speed that the fan is not too loud at, like 40% or something. have the fan on by default at that speed (klipper config). then do what you suggested, with the fan on at full during print.

having the fan running 5 min or more after the print will remove the rest of the styrene that can build up in the chamber (allows for full recirculation)

[stray ivy]

It seems like the fan doesn't want to run at any speed other then 100%. At lower speeds it makes some funny noise but no airflow.

[stray ivy]

Inreasing they cycle_time seems to help, but not perfect.

[sly cliff]

well, dang. some fans are that way. either leave it on all the time, or setup a macro that will run it for like an extra 5 minutes after the print ends.

i just leave it on. it's barely noticeable in the enclosure.

[fallow saddle]

@sly cliff do you have the 120 on printables as of yet? I have some folks in another server interested.

[sly cliff]

not on printables. https://jon-harper.github.io/air_filter/v3/

[fallow saddle]

Thank you!

[static stream]

does the suaft fit into a v0? its too big right?

[sly cliff]

I suspect so, but I am not certain

v0 is a pretty smol machine

[celest basalt]

excuse me sir, but can the EVA mounts work on the E34? Primarily the MGN9H Rail mount for the EVA 3?

[sly cliff]

Not 100% sure, but I doubt it

[celest basalt]

ive halfway built my nebula, but my stock ender 5 is giving me grief. and i was thinking of using the ender 5 with your print head to make it better

im getting clogging in the stock head

[sly cliff]

ah, that's probably not the best idea. E34M1 won't work on stock Ender 5.

[celest basalt]

so build a eva 3 for the orbiter and the other rapido, got it.

My CR10 snapped a belt, and i cant do anything with it till i get some crimps.

[full pollen]

how are people mounting suaft in the nebula pro version

[sly cliff]

This was posted further up: #1105863699459219477 message

link to file: #1105863699459219477 message

[full pollen]

Thank you!

[lofty elm]

okay Neodymium Magnets are very strong perfect if your mounting the filter

[sly cliff]

STRONK MAGNITS

[visual arrow]

suaft 120 is the one to go for nowadays, right?

[sly cliff]

yep yep

[visual arrow]

i am officially too sketched out with open air asa printing, so suaft is next then

[sly cliff]

it def helps with headaches and smell

[visual arrow]

do you guys use the suaft plugged into the motherboard fan headers?

[lofty elm]

Yep

[visual arrow]

yikes, might be my worst print to date

[sly cliff]

looks fine from here

[severe magnet]

vertical circular grids are basically a worst case scenario in all situations for 3DP and I think it's fine to me. The difference between that and better would most likely be starting down the diminishing returns path after not too long. You could stand to do another PA and retraction calibration cycle but after that, if it were me, keep on keeping on

[sly cliff]

they are def sagging more than normally happens, but it won't interfere with function. fun fact: the circles are not circular for this reason! they have room to sag on purpose!

[visual arrow]

ah shit

i think my activated charcoal is too fine

[visual arrow]

https://www.amazon.nl/-/en/Activated-Absorbency-Filtering-Aquariums-Purification/dp/B01HY983US? would these be large enough?

[sly cliff]

those would be fine.

[sly cliff]

can i see?

[visual arrow]

i'll take a pic in a couple of hours, outside right now

[full pollen]

My AC was to fine as well but it was one that was linked up above that worked for someone else

[visual arrow]

oh, the 3mm is too wide too then probably

the current one is... ground?

like coarsely ground coffee

very coarsely

i don't think it'll work at all because it clogged the holes on the filter cap

[visual arrow]

sorry, forgot and fell asleep last night

[sly cliff]

mine are 4-8mm pellets, like this

[sly cliff]

i'd give it a try with the fan and see how it performs. if you have sufficient airflow, it's fine.

[full pollen]

how did you guys fit sauft into the nebual pro build?

seems like i would have to mount it to the back panel

[tawdry wave]

I made a bracket that would attach to the 2040 sections and allow it to recess some toward the back panel. otherwise it was going to contact the ears on the bed (plus - 400mm bed). @scenic bobcat made another bracket that mounts similarly as well - above.

#1105863699459219477 message

#1105863699459219477 message

[full pollen]

that what i orginally had was his bracket but it hits the ears on the bed

I can turn it and mount it here doesn’t look the best though I like seeing the name on it

[tawdry wave]

This is how mine fits

[full pollen]

it looks like you have so much more room back their

[tawdry wave]

I need to re-print the lid to orient the name for this installation. I was originally going to mount at the top and have it blow down (shamelessly stolen idea from @final valve ) but my tool head was going to contact the filter body.

are you a plus or pro

[full pollen]

im on pro, i tried up top and my toolhead cpap tubing will interfere

[final valve]

I’ve been summoned

[tawdry wave]

I've got a pro build next, with the 275 bed - that may be an issue for me as well.

was just commenting on how your mounted SUAFT - couldn't steal your idea in my case

[final valve]

Awww

[full pollen]

yeah it wont fit with 275 bed i have 255 bed and it barley fits

[tawdry wave]

Good to know. I'll have to think on a solution when that time comes. My current pile of parts needs a config and some electricity

[full pollen]

do you have step file for that mount so i can verify in cad

[tawdry wave]

I have at least 3mm of clearance.

yes - let me grab it

[full pollen]

thank you very much!

[full pollen]

i think it was the angle of that last photo

[tawdry wave]

its ugly - took me 2 days to get it here, and was the second part I drew up - CAD is not a strong asset in my current toolbox.

the bed was near the top, I dropped it down for the last pic.

[full pollen]

you dont see the mount barley at all, looks good to me not ugly.

[tawdry wave]

I meant the CAD work. I've learned some since then.

[full pollen]

thats what i meant the part isnt ugly its fine

[tawdry wave]

Thats how I took it.

[full pollen]

does not clear at all lmao back to the drawing board i think my options are either direct mount to my acm back panel or make a mount the is flush with the foam tape

[tawdry wave]

Damn - soo close

I was thinking at one time to sit the SUAFT flat on the ebay top and have the flow blow across the back, not sure if that will work either.

[full pollen]

i can get it in that corner right their and clear the bed sitting down on the panel buts its part way onto the panel clips etc, im gonna make a mount right now i just wanted to verify if incase someone already did the handy work before me

[sly cliff]

nebula is hard because it's so tightly enclosed. my preferred option there is mounting it up high, if possible, above the toolhead.

otherwise i mount it on the frame and let the excess hang outside of it

[full pollen]

Don’t print this it doesn’t work atleast for the fan I bought it’s dimensions are slightly different will adjust when I get home from work and I’ll put a link to the fan I bought that fits with the new mount I remake

[light elk]

Has anybody ever thought about designing ductwork to have the SUAFT pool from the top of the enclosure and blow into the bottom? I'm thinking about doing something like that but I didn't know if anybody else had already started. Just got done printing my 2nd one. 👍

[sly cliff]

That's the idea I was working with when trying a remote setup, but it has a similar problem with low pressure that CPAP does.

CPAP fans provide a LOT more pressure than these 120mm ones do

[visual arrow]

do you guys trust suaft enough to print asa in the same room as you

[sly cliff]

quite

add another hepa filter in the room as backup, if you'd like, but probably not necessary.

[primal orbit]

i do that with any decent enclosure and filter, i'd trust SUAFT to even tuck me into bed while getting rid of the VOC, etc.

[static stream]

Does the SUAFT fit a v0? I think its too big no?

[primal orbit]

Way way way too big, the suaft itself uses like a 120mm fan iirc?

For a v0 I'd stick with a mfnano or one of the smaller nevermores personally

[static stream]

ill try the nevermore mini

[severe magnet]

Suaft mount for 2020 that is redesigned for printability. No bridges or support, teardrop holes, and no fillets coming up from the bed.

Thank you so much for start here with this

intralayer strength advantage versus having a big plane to crack things with the fillets the way they were

[sly cliff]

nice. I'm a big fan of adding ribs and such to things to avoid cracking

[snow sentinel]

How well would this work in reverse. If say, someone were to push air through the hepa filter and then through the charcoal. Because I am now the owner of a Core One.

[severe magnet]

Some of the air filters I have here use carbon as a pre filter (which saves life on the HEPA filter from volatiles plus it filters the actual carbon dust) but I have one that uses it as a post-filter too. The real downside is HEPA filters are really designed for one way airflow only. Also, blower fans only intake through the side regardless of spinning direction so you'd need to find another fan. Basically redesign.

[sly cliff]

pull is much more efficient than push. it'll work, but much less efficiently.

i think someone was working on a Core One mod, though

https://www.printables.com/search/models?q=core+one+filter

[severe magnet]

thumbscrew testing

[severe magnet]

I really want this to be tool-free and it's so close

[severe magnet]

and these are the screws https://www.amazon.com/MECCANIXITY-M3x10mm-Computer-Threaded-Aluminum/dp/B0DBM31LM1?

[sly cliff]

this is awesome! thanks!

[severe magnet]

no problem

[visual arrow]

is there a recommendation to place the suaft above the printer / toolhead for better collection?

[sly cliff]

if you can fit it up there, do.

both for recirc filtration and exhaust

[visual arrow]

i'll see if its doable but it seems far fetched on the stock frame

[severe magnet]

mounted, printing my diverter right now

Also working on one with a different style of grate

for fun

[visual arrow]

is that fuzzy skin on the filter

[sly cliff]

that looks cool, are you using grains or pellets?

[severe magnet]

these 2mmx8mm or so pill cylinder shapes

[severe magnet]

nah just CF purple ambrosia ASA

[sly cliff]

Hmm, I think that may work, then

[severe magnet]

my thinking is even if a bunch get jammed in the 13mm wide slots sideways, there will still be airspace above or below them lengthwise and I want a labyrinthine pathway anyway right

[sly cliff]

the labyrinth adds resistance, but i doubt the slots will be an issue for airflow

[full pollen]

A while back i had posted the wrong step file that wasn't the intended step file for the nebula 255. Sorry about that!!

Here is a new updated step file of the correct mount for anyone needing a mount for pro this will clear 255x255 Beds, not 275x275 beds.

I've also rotated the SUAFT label to accommodate the angle of SUAFT in the mount, you can mount it on the back left/back right 2040 upright extrusions. Would need to mirror the lid in your slider depending on what side in the current step file it is orientated to be mounted on the back left 2040 upright extrusion.

3 x M4 Heatset inserts
3x M4x8mm/10mm countersunk screws.

Mileage may vary if all three mounting points are pre countersunk if only two are countersunk you can counter sink the third one to utilize the third mounting spot without having interferance with the back panel,

[sly cliff]

This is sweet!

[sly cliff]

I poked at the model a little and I think I have an idea for you. I am at work ATM, but will check back later today.

[celest basalt]

Hey Jon, Is there any way i could use the suaft top, for my yoopai enclosure? it only has an 80mm fan port

[sly cliff]

I'm looking at it again and actually...I think I prefer the way you have it. Thanks again for designing this!

[full pollen]

I rushed to re make it last night after realizing I never posted the right file so if you have any suggestions let me know!

[celest basalt]

Did anyone have issues trying to get the magnets in?

[sly cliff]

Not particularly? Most of my issues are not supergluing it correctly.

use a flat object to smoosh it in place

[celest basalt]

Yeah, i ended up having to smoosh it in place

I made them stick, but I stuffed up the base, so I’m going to reprint the base

[sly cliff]

you have a textured build plate, yes? z offset is too close to the plate. the mottling is a mirror of the build plate texture.

makes the first layer or two spread out, so the magnet holes are too small at the entrance

[celest basalt]

yeah I do, how?

I put the inserts in the wrong spots because I was a dumbass and didn’t read the destructions

[sly cliff]

the sloped holes are good for getting a tool in there to pop out the magnets

[celest basalt]

thats what I used to pull them out lol, flat head screwdriver and popped them out

[sly cliff]

perfect

[celest basalt]

I don't need Ikea Destructions, so i thought stuff it I dont need destructions

yeah.... nah, I'm a dumbass

[sly cliff]

that's kinda how i got to enjoying writing docs

doing it wrong and fixing it meant i had to hunt through docs. got to appreciating the big print up front saying "read me"

[celest basalt]

Ask me how to fly a plane, no problem, ask me how to load a truck with a front end loader, no issue, ask me to build Ikea Furniture, piece of cake, build a 3d Printer...... Yeah nahhhhh

[sly cliff]

OT: what do you fly?

[celest basalt]

everything up to a 737, when i was in europe, now im in australia again, so im flying bug smashers.

plus hitting skippy with my road trains (i do ag flying)

[sly cliff]

hitting skippy?

[celest basalt]

kangaroo's

[sly cliff]

lmao

[celest basalt]

ohh shut skip, you just bounced in front of my kenworth, and now you're getting massaged with all 56 tyres of my road train

but anywho, it is what it is. I am going to ask a mate of mine to remix the base, so i can put it in my yoopai enclosure for my CR-10, but my Nebula is getting an unedited version.

Still looking for non acid washed A/C though..... its a PITA here in Perth, but i saw the other guy put something up about it.

the yoopai can only handle an 80mm fan, so it wont work with SUAFT natively.

[sly cliff]

duct

use a wide duct between the base and filter

80mm around

you might even improve airflow with the large duct like that...?

[celest basalt]

Thats kind of what i was thinking. I'll see what alex reckons, he is an engineer after all, plus he's building a Merc too, with the SUAFT. I bought him one of the fans too

[sly cliff]

lmk what he says!

[celest basalt]

Will do, when he gets up ffs (he lives about 1.5 hours north of me, he was supposed to help me design it, but i have NFI about CAD)

so its a learning experience, and the whole IKEA thing..... well thats the Dunning Krueger effect in full display

[sly cliff]

oh boy, yes. overestimating one's skill is very human.

🤚 <- me

[celest basalt]

you said, lift the first layers. Won't i get adhesion issues with ABS if i dont have that "squash" factor (no elephant footing though)

because i did lose the SUAFT 120 on the cap, when i printed it.

[sly cliff]

lift it 0.01 - 0.015mm. you should see light texturing and no discernible "squash" at the edges

if you have adhesion issues, adhesive can help a lot

[celest basalt]

do i do that with the slicer, or in klipper? i mean i can Z offset in Mainsail, no issue, but im using Prusa Slicer

[sly cliff]

heat soaking and higher chamber temps will take you far

[sly cliff]

klipper

z offset is a live setting

[celest basalt]

ok too easy, so around 0.015ish

now All i have to do is figure out how to connect my eddy duo to my hermit crab, so that way i can finish printing off the bits for my neb

Im not liking my BL touch atm, tbqh

[sly cliff]

bltouch is trash above 45C

klicky gets rough with very hot beds and temps above 50C

beacon beacon beacon

[celest basalt]

I've got a carto on my E34M1

[sly cliff]

that works too

[celest basalt]

It was what I could get, reasonably priced

apparently the H variant of Carto is really really good with heat

[sly cliff]

oooh i didn't know they had one now

[celest basalt]

yep, new one came out about 4 months ago iirc

[sly cliff]

that's very good news for everyone not in the US trying to get beacon

[celest basalt]

https://cartographer3d.com/products/cartographer-probe-v3-with-adxl345-low-profile-both-can-usb this is what i bought

[sly cliff]

noice. i have a beacon h and i love it. much smaller than the d.

[celest basalt]

85c is what they recommend is the max

but the components can go higher

[sly cliff]

at this point, i think the only reason i can't go higher than 55C or 60C on my chamber is the EBB. it used to be my bltouch or klicky holding me back.

[celest basalt]

btw good sir....... the dragchain mount doesn't work with the Orbiter..... I wish i had known that before lol

ended up going with one from printables, that works, but has no dragchain

ebb42 i mean

https://www.printables.com/model/772119-ebb42-orbiter-2-mount <--- ended up printing that

[sly cliff]

very interesting design...

the wire anchors are nice

[celest basalt]

he did a good design, and he also added the support for the E34M1, only issue is that the orbiter top, on your github, has a rounded section, that interferes with the screw hole.

[sly cliff]

oh boy, that's meant for NEMA17 steppers!

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/pcb_mounts/

[celest basalt]

yep, thats what i meant, but the orbiter is a nema 14 stepper so it doesn't work.

[sly cliff]

i should take those files down or add a warning in the git folder

well, i gotta bounce. got company in a few.

[celest basalt]

this is the one i printed. that has the rounded section. No probs man, have a good one

[celest basalt]

Btw I got it working properly. It works well, but no AC in it because the AC I have is acid washed :<

[sly cliff]

Hey it's a start!

[celest basalt]

I'm gonna have to get some AC somewhere.

[sly cliff]

@violet trellis Hey man, can you recommend a vendor in Australia for activated carbon?

[celest basalt]

He recommend a mob in the east coast.

ceycarb here in perth has got it, but i dont know if they will sell small quantities

[violet trellis]

Dremc for nevermore products or ask your local home brew or aquarium shops what they offer.

[sly cliff]

Thanks, cap'n

@celest basalt

[celest basalt]

I've got aqua one activated carbon which i COULD use, but im worried that it could be acid washed

[violet trellis]

From reading probably is, most state it’s not acid washed instead of staying they are acid washed as that seems to be the norm. Probs hit up ceycarb by email and see what they do sell or if someone local does.

[sly cliff]

oooh better safe than sorry.

[severe magnet]

I have been loving these as general filters. For small spaces they are great! But I also want a modular, stackable system, so I have been designing and tooling around with quicker-printing holes like I poster earlier, but also now a stackable version. I want to keep using thumbscrews (my goal is no tools, even at the expense of a lot of magnets), so I also needed to modify the base for clearance.

[celest basalt]

Yeah I spoke to Gracia and she sais she can send me some, no issue, Asked her for 2kg 😛

[sly cliff]

i love the thumbscrews

[celest basalt]

allegedly i wont have to pay for it 😉

[sly cliff]

that's how they secure repeat business 🙂

[celest basalt]

damn straight

ive put the aqua one carbon in there atm, it seems to be working

4.4lbs should last me a while 😉

[sly cliff]

it will. i am only on my second 5kg big bag and I have used AC for lots of little projects for years

i wasted a lot of it, too

[sly cliff]

pretty!

[severe magnet]

Desktop version that utilizes an off-the-shelf variable speed 12032 blower and the stackable filters

[sly cliff]

I am all for additional uses for these filters

[severe magnet]

The cartridges are cheap enough and the fan can actually create the static pressure needed for HEPA/electret filters to actually work, which makes this better than 99% of other "hepa filter" 3d printed projects.

The additional activated carbon is excellent, especially since I already had a gigantic bag of acid-free pellets.

I am in love lol

[sly cliff]

yay! my goal was to do air filtration the Right Way

[tranquil dagger]

honestly this project took all the scary out of printing with ABS I had in my head before

[celest basalt]

Mr spacer. Can i ask you for a small favour good sir?

Your E34M1..... can you make a top, that suits an MGN9H? I have some spare MGN9H that I want to put on my unmodded E5+, that way I can run a Rapido on the damn thing and get rid of the silly stock extruder/hotend on it.

[sly cliff]

not very easily, unfortunately. check printables, maybe?

[celest basalt]

Do you have the .step files? I can move the holes for the top section in to suit the screw holes, while keeping the same dimensions

Printables has EVA 3 MGN9H tops, but I doubt they will work with the e34

[sly cliff]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/tree/main/CAD/top

[sweet harbor]

what are the noise levels on the 120 , especially compared to nevermore micro v2?
That abomination is like the loudest bit of my whole 3d printer, often out noising the entire rest of the printer...

[sly cliff]

It's a loud fan, but the enclosure will cut a lot of noise

much of the noise gets cut by the filter, too

[sweet harbor]

i'm not sure it can get worse than the double 5015 in the micro v2

[sly cliff]

less high pitched for sure

there's definitely less whine, more hum

[sweet harbor]

hum is fine, whine aint 🤣

also, funny to see that aliexpress is roughly same prices as uk amazon for the blowers

[sly cliff]

what about shipping?

[sweet harbor]

got prime so 🤷‍♂️

note to self: sort by price, not best match on aliexpress 🤣

also, love the hand-cranked one in there 🤣

(also, that ~2 pound one is +9 pounds on shipping sooo, amazon it is)

guess i'm printing the parts out overnight.

[sly cliff]

yeah i got my fans on amazon too. aliexpress almost always comes out more expensive for small purchases. bulk purchases, however, are much cheaper if the retailer is good

[sweet harbor]

Honestly, for me its mostly on how urgent/expensive it is.
If its bulk/mechanical and not a moving part and cheap, aliexpress, if i suspect high jankularity, amazon and refund mobile if jank encountered.

[sweet harbor]

btw, i appreciate so much that the whole thing fits on a single bed

lets see if the complex geometry lives in asa

[sweet harbor]

The funnel went weird, but nothing a smidge of chamfer tool + a file cant fix

[sly cliff]

icky, though not tooooo bad

[sweet harbor]

It cleaned up nicely and i dont care enough to reprint a funnel 😂

Just waiting on the superglue to dry fully

[sly cliff]

looking good!

[sweet harbor]

nevermore's final revenge: pellets getting stuck in the funnel 🤣

[sly cliff]

oh man, yeah. I kinda struggle with that with the pellets too

granular AC works more easily, fwiw

[sweet harbor]

aaaaand i cracked the holder by using a too long bolt 🤣

This is fiiiiine

[sly cliff]

should be okay. your heat set insert may not be fully seated, causing the gap between lid and filter tank

there's a lip, though, so shouldn't be an issue

[sweet harbor]

nah, the insert is fully in, i just overtightened a 8mm screw instead of using a 6mm

[sly cliff]

ohhhhh

[sweet harbor]

and the 8 mm pushed the top up

also, holy moly this fan is powerfull

[sly cliff]

I have an AC powered one of these and it's even louder/stronger

i do not use it however. too loud.

[sweet harbor]

yeah, its looking lovely, ~9W power draw with the filter on. i need to file down the superglue and/or the magnets as well for a smidge better seal at the bottom

should've maybe used 6x2 magnets on my build as the magnets were sitting a smidge proud even before superglue 🤔

[sweet harbor]

Yeah, its sitting pretty in there at 50% speed as it was moving too much air for sanity with ASA 😂

May i never again have to smell the fishy horrors of ASA and nevermore, rest in pieces, you were mediocre

[sly cliff]

yay filtration!

[sly cliff]

Did you ever build this?

I'd be super curious of pics if you did

[sweet harbor]

this joy combined with activated carbon and the nevermore scorch pellets really clears the ASA smell out completely to the point where its no longer detectable after a 12 hour overnight print ❤️

[sly cliff]

it's so much better!

[junior lantern]

https://tenor.com/view/i'm-ready-family-feud-canada-i'm-prepared-gif-1886349492365854590

This should be a good print on Hera to test ASA XD

[final valve]

just like that delta fan i tested 🙂

[sly cliff]

i had one 6000rpm 60mm delta once, on a computer in the late 90s. man it was loud.