Flow - Born from an E5Pro

[formal marsh]

@proud marsh how many chain links are you using

[proud marsh]

on the merc?

let me count them… for the rack 11, but I think I have the wrong chain

[formal marsh]

yep

I have memory of 13

[proud marsh]

I’m in the middle of something (kids stuff) I’ll get to it when thing are settled (they sleep)

[formal marsh]

ah no rush man

[formal marsh]

becoming undecided where to put the lights might move them to the enclosure

with the possibility of SCS not sure if it's worth to put on the frame

[formal marsh]

did a quick test with the 120mm blowers on the board just to ensure they don't pull too much, seems to work ok

[dapper latch]

What's their rated current draw?

[formal marsh]

500mA

would need to measure to be sure

[dapper latch]

What's the fans voltage? Which mainboard and what other peripherals are driven by the board?

[formal marsh]

24v

skr pico the board only drives 2 steppers and can bridge

there is a second skr pico with 3 steppers and thats it

2 endstops but I feel like those are irrelevant

there will be 2 fans on one board 1 on another

thats it

[dapper latch]

The board uses 3400 MOSFETs which are rated for high current (upwards of 5A), but has a Maximum Power Dissipation of 1.4W (heat generated during switching) by itself. With such a small component, heat is dissipated into the board and some to the air surrounding it. With this information it's impossible for me to tell you for certain if 2x500mA is safe to draw or not, although it doesn't seem to be much.
I'd suggest you to find the component and monitor its temperature with a load of 1 fan and if it appears safe add the second fan and repeat.

[formal marsh]

I have already tried that the mosfets don't get hot

it's one fan on each so it should be fine

your advice matches the advice I got from another person 😁

I won't be connecting more than one on each fan port I have 6 available between both picos

[formal marsh]

now that I think about it, I can control a total of 9 fans

[pale cloak]

Fantastic!

...I'll see myself out.

[formal marsh]

🙄

[formal marsh]

Not much to update here lately, still waiting on extruder motor and new PSU finish reassembly of the original ender 5

New iec socket and switch have arrived though, both are in place will need to adjust omnibox bottom on reprint as the switch is a little smaller

Spacers for toolboard have arrived as well thank you @proud marsh

[pale cloak]

Makes me wonder if the power switch should be a "module" for the Front Base.

Something you can install, instead of printed in

[formal marsh]

sounds like a good idea

2 more HSI?

[pale cloak]

0.9.11 todo is growing

Gotta design it first, heh

[formal marsh]

guess I'll wait for it to reprint bottom

[pale cloak]

Er...0.9.11 is gonna be about six months...?

If you give me the dimensions of the switch I'll make a custom base, though

[formal marsh]

nah I can wait

[pale cloak]

Oh, does it fit, just loose?

[formal marsh]

just loose

losing hope of printing anything this weekend

motor still on the way not in Portugal yet

[proud marsh]

sucks that RR doesn’t sell nema 14

[formal marsh]

indeed might get a spare from ali since they're cheaper

should have bought this one there as well, cheaper and would almost be here at the same time

[proud marsh]

mellow?

[proud marsh]

which one have you got anyway?

[formal marsh]

random amazon seller, motor is moons

[formal marsh]

yeah I might order from mellow

2 actually

and just ship this one back to amazon

https://pt.aliexpress.com/item/1005003049865645.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.2f297f06sBGiAW&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2bra this one

[proud marsh]

get a 8t and a 10t from mellow 😅, so you can compare

[formal marsh]

this is the one on the way https://www.amazon.es/dp/B09GKWFZSG?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (second one actually)

first wires bork

btw installed new standoffs, a lot more solid

might move the PSU out of mine to the old ender to print something this weekend getting itchy

the issue is I know I will scream at the speed

[proud marsh]

It’s not the first time I see that. also on LDOs

[proud marsh]

send a video, nostalgia

[formal marsh]

hahaha I will

whenever I share the merc printing on some national groups where I am a lot of people say "its fast"

and I'm like "still slow need to go faster"

a lot of those guys come from ender 3 and the likes

[proud marsh]

I need to take a clip of the merc doing the brim and first layer during a speed bencky.. I might not have cracked the 20min but still, it’s so impressive watching it 😝

[formal marsh]

I have never printed a benchy

might attempt one after I get it FAST

by FAST I mean adding the SCS thingie

[proud marsh]

do it!

I only printed it in asa in speed mode

[formal marsh]

I dream of a 10min one

from some comments I have seen a lot of people go to ABS+ for speed benchy

I do have a spool

[proud marsh]

24 min is already crazy fast, I can’t slice it faster.. I haven’t tried that hard yet though

[formal marsh]

people also say it's not the best for merc/rack/etc

[proud marsh]

no because it breaks

[formal marsh]

let me have a look at annex rules and do a small PoC

best I can slice is 24min

I hit hotend limit at 22mm^3

might be higher with different filament

[formal marsh]

yeah I'm stuck for the weekend nothing arriving

I'll move the PSU and remaining endstop into the oldender

[proud marsh]

have you got meanwell 350w?

[formal marsh]

no

new is

[proud marsh]

I swapped the fan on that thing, I got an artic 12v silent fan, but to my surprise the orig ender psu -landy- had a 24v fan (and I blew up the connector doing some experiments 😅) So i got an original meanwell, sporting 12v fan, plug and play, and I can’t hear a thing now

[formal marsh]

meanwell only triggers fan when hot

[proud marsh]

yes, I had the fan because the other one was always on super loud. but still, orig meanwell is not annoying but it’s noticeably less noisy with the silent fan

[formal marsh]

meanwell I can barely hear the printer on

heatbreak is not always on now

so now power on is pretty much silent

I predict a fun night compiling Marlin

[pale cloak]

Marlin? For the rebuilt Ender 5? EDIT: I see now, n/m it is

[formal marsh]

yep sadly it will be, who's buying it wants as stock as possible

finally good news PSU monday

[formal marsh]

since the merc is stuck here is the OG ender status:
wiring done
x and y homing z bl touch fails need to double check config endstop might be wrongly wired or reversed
nozzle and bed heat fine, all axes move in the right direction

[pale cloak]

You really rebuilt your Ender 5 Pro from pieces. I wonder if the warranty is valid?

[formal marsh]

older than 2 years so no

otherwise why not 😅

and with marlin 🤮

every damn FW change recompile reflash, and to make it worse I'm compiling on my computer and using wife computer because I cant find any of my card adapters

[pale cloak]

ooof, gross

Marlin really needs a reflash solution that does not require an SD card

[formal marsh]

FOUND ONE OF THE CARD READERS

[formal marsh]

well it's homing now

bltouch offset, tram the bed pid tune, test print

[formal marsh]

Sloooooow

@proud marsh as requested

[pale cloak]

You should show that off in #printer_showcase 😆

[proud marsh]

thanks!! the clip gave the final nail to send my little one to sleep

[formal marsh]

huh?

[proud marsh]

he just fell asleep while I watched the video 😂

[formal marsh]

was he watching as well?

so slow and boring even kids fall asleep watching it home

[proud marsh]

he was almost there already… it’s 1h that I’m reading baby books 😩

[proud marsh]

but it could be…

the guy that’s going to have the printer is getting a great ender 5. I wish I started with something like that when I got mine

[formal marsh]

trying to keep a balance of stock but some small improvements

[formal marsh]

tiny tiny update, slowpoke esteps are calibrated, x and y bltouch offset too, z remains to be done alone with pid tune, then tram the damn bed and run a test print

[formal marsh]

also the adapters for the bed are on the way

[formal marsh]

PSU is here

[formal marsh]

damn meanwells come very well tuned, 24V not even .1 off

[dapper latch]

It's not that meaningful. What's more important is whether it keeps the same voltage at all loads up to it's maximum 14A, and whether it can cope with fast changing of current draw (such as when PWMing a 300W bed). Both can be issues to PSUs, as even with Meanwell PSUs each family is designed for different type of applications.

[pale cloak]

OoOoO that makes a lot of sense. Would that be the current switching time or something similar in the spec sheet?

[dapper latch]

Yeah. It does take some lab instruments to test something like this, which most of us don't have

[pale cloak]

I'm thinking in terms of comparing the data sheets of different models of Mean Well (LRS, RSP, SE...). I own LRS and SE and am curious how they compare. The RSP-500 is pretty common, too.

[dapper latch]

If you have access to a load generator and an oscilloscope that would be an awesome study.
Alternatively, we may persuade a serious youtuber like Eddie the Engineer to test it. 🙂

I like the meanwell DIN-mounted PSUs, and own several HDR-series (that's quite low end), and the SDR and MDR series

[pale cloak]

Is the Rise Time related on the datasheet?

[dapper latch]

Well as far as load is concerned, we can test the PSU on the printer, so as to test real-life scenrario

[pale cloak]

I believe it is, but am not an EE

[pale cloak]

Sadly, I do not have either of these. I like the idea of talking to a YouTuber, though.

[dapper latch]

Looking at the meanwell datasheet, this should be the load regulation. On an HDR-150 I'm looking at it is 1%, what is it for the LRS series?

[pale cloak]

0.5%

Ditto for SE-450-24 and RSP-500-24

[dapper latch]

But it's only the first part of the story

[pale cloak]

Dun dun dun!

[dapper latch]

1% is ok and well within tolerance of most products, 0.5% is even nicer, but need to know how fast it regulates the voltage when the load keeps changing, as I mentioned before. In a 3D printer the load is constantly changing during print

[pale cloak]

Right. PWM and PID tuning.

And the motors, of course

[dapper latch]

Mostly, but even the motors rotating at different speeds/acceleration

[pale cloak]

Is that information not on the data sheet?

[dapper latch]

A serious engineer may be able to extrapolate this info from the specs 🤨

[pale cloak]

That, I am not.

[dapper latch]

Well I'm not serious enough 🙂

[formal marsh]

and we have PSU live and temps for boards

waiting for that motor to run some accelerometer tests

[proud marsh]

is your toolbar running at 22.8c?

[formal marsh]

idling

[proud marsh]

wow!

mine idle at 50~40 😅

[formal marsh]

whoa

everything is cold FWIW

ambient temp is 22.51C

still need to connect motors and check

where do you guys place the thermistor for the enclosure btw? middle of the frame? top? bottom?

[pale cloak]

I place mine near the top, but away from the bed.

[formal marsh]

@dapper latch remember the hissing motors? mine are hissing now

same wires on all 5

heh spreadcycle

I can live with that, but not sure of there's much advantage of running z on spreadcycle

[formal marsh]

doesnt look too bad to me

X

Y

[formal marsh]

found yesterday late night that I might have the current on my motors too low, testing today with a little more

if accels/speeds continue low might get 2 new ones

[pale cloak]

What's your current right now?

[formal marsh]

itbwas .7 now at .95 still need to test it

for 1.7A peak on the motors

very tempted to get the 2.5A peak LDOs

the remnants can go into the rack

[pale cloak]

.95 will do much better. I think you'll be more satisfied with that.

I run at .9 on 2A motors

[formal marsh]

let's see how hot these get

hopefully I'll get more speed

[gleaming whale]

They do 2.8A’s now

[formal marsh]

I know, price wise doesn't make much sense to me

@solar stratus would you kind having a look at my graphs?

[solar stratus]

I have no idea what to look for if they are ugly really

Just check for anything loose

[formal marsh]

are they that ugly

[solar stratus]

Y is weird in that the axis are not all following a similar path

But mvz is recommended and that's good

[formal marsh]

I'll recheck thanks

[pale cloak]

I think your graphs look very good. The peak is in the right place and there's only a little noise at 100Hz+.

[formal marsh]

belts might take some tuning

also 500 speed 30k accel looking good

I will re-lubricate rails check if everything is tight but I thinkg I can't take it much further

[formal marsh]

well THR does get a little hot but not too much

this was printing PETG

[pale cloak]

It's TB in the list?

[formal marsh]

yep

ToolBoard

[formal marsh]

also printer is very wobbly (the whole thing) need to find a way to secure it, and the feet look too soft

[pale cloak]

😕

[formal marsh]

thoughts on removing rubber feet and sitting the frame directly on the enclosure

[formal marsh]

I'm done with marlin

slowpoke will go with klipper

at least I can call it fastpoke

[formal marsh]

well took me about 30min to get to the point where all I need to tune is z offset, tram the bed a little and print

currently pid tuning

something came in the mail today (some ABS parts for EVA), thank you @tired pike

[formal marsh]

Just for fun started a calibration cube on both printers, merc started when slowpoke was at 25%

lets see

[pale cloak]

lol

Poor slowpoke

[formal marsh]

flow is already ahead

done

slowpoke almost there

ghosting is terrible

and done, they finished at the same time 🤣

[formal marsh]

ANOTHER UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Add exhaust fan to enclosure 🕐 (needs wiring)
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour
Crimp all remaining microfits
Test black or white led attachment 🕐 (printed black I like it need to put LEDs)
Swap frame ✅
Mount all the new stuff (omnibox and bucket)
Calibrate IS ✅
Get yet another new extruder motor✅
Preliminary test fit of bed brackets to move into proper position ✅
Mount new bed brackets that should arrive tomorrow.

[formal marsh]

led bars might collide with toolhead

[proud marsh]

I changed the led bars and used those from modbot, they work fine with an hair clearance to the toolhead

[formal marsh]

got link?

I wonder if they hit the SCS

[proud marsh]

huu, does he have that?

[formal marsh]

idk but I plan to

[proud marsh]

https://www.printables.com/model/442181-voron-style-90-degree-led-light-bar-for-extrusions

it’s eva 2.4 though, I doubt eva 3 is going to hit them, but who knows

they are a quick print anyway

[formal marsh]

might print one to compare

how big are they

20?

should have thought better this wont work, already printed one, hate wasting filament https://www.printables.com/model/84735-led-strip-holder-for-voron-24/files

[solar stratus]

That's made for an enclosure

[formal marsh]

yep, I just looked at it and thought should be good

might end mounting it on the enclosure

[proud marsh]

mounting the leds above the printer is a good idea, no matter how good the led mount is, on the y extrusions the light will be blocked by the bed for the first few layers. Unless maybe with a volcano setup

[formal marsh]

enclosure it is, black might not work then

[pale cloak]

I've got mine angled at 15 degrees and it looks prety good. Still kinda gets in the way, though.

[formal marsh]

I also tried to go crazy and attempted a benchy at 500mm/s with PETG 😱

first layer was fine, but as soon as it started second the first one said NOPE and lost all adhesion

[formal marsh]

old NF crazy in along with the ABS mount and duct

printing a cube just to check if its good

[formal marsh]

prints fine

I also found that I need new belts for EVA3 and I'm not sure I have spare

[proud marsh]

is it longer?

[formal marsh]

just a little but yeah

[formal marsh]

40 to 50mm fam adapter because im lazy to reprint the back now

[formal marsh]

and printing this guy to hold the bed WAGO

[formal marsh]

overhangs are crap

[formal marsh]

now I have a 250x250 bed

[pale cloak]

That turned out very well.

[formal marsh]

loving it, still need to align everything

and run a test print

then wire management, lights exhaust fan and ABS

[formal marsh]

this will take forever

[formal marsh]

while the corners look great, they don't work great, just ok, can't get z_tilt done with .15 tolerance

they flex a little

[formal marsh]

probing a little more into the bed improves things a little, for now it will have to do

also noticed z leadscrews wobble a lot, need to run a test on that

[formal marsh]

doesnt look wobbly

and yes filament path again

need to put the box on top of omnibox

heating bed to 110C to check if my new "bed fixing thingies" still behave

also see how hot the enclosure gets

[pale cloak]

Filament jam?

[formal marsh]

yep too hard to pull

40C on enclosure with bed at 110 Hotend 250 took 25minutes

[pale cloak]

Try turning on the part cooling fan. It helps heat up the air faster.

[formal marsh]

@pale cloak just tested it around 13minutes at 41

still going up slowly

[pale cloak]

Nice

[formal marsh]

woot 43

stabilized at 43 in 16 minutes me likey

[formal marsh]

might have a non square frame

[formal marsh]

UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Add exhaust fan to enclosure 🕐 (needs wiring)
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour
Crimp all remaining microfits
Test black or white led attachment 🕐 (printed black I like it need to put LEDs)
Mount all the new stuff (omnibox and bucket)
Mount new bed brackets ✅
Arrange wiring on frame
Start planning EVA3
Lubricate rails and lead screws

Slow progress

[tired pike]

That bed is FLAT! Very nice!

[formal marsh]

could be way flatter but it's the frame that's not square

printed purge bucket supports, hits the bed 🤦

needs at least 5mm, but then nozzle does not reach it

[proud marsh]

on the back?

[formal marsh]

yep

I could side mount it

[proud marsh]

I’ve given up on the back, everything on the side

[formal marsh]

heh I wanted the side room for the extra cooling

at 130mm might be able to fit both

[formal marsh]

plans for today:

• Wire exhaust FAN
• Wire some LEDs along with buck converter
• Start ABS calibration

[pale cloak]

What if, instead of a zip tie, we used the third hole for the sherpa mini? The optional front with a screw hole?

That would vertically stabilize the stepper

[formal marsh]

doubt it works

its just anchoring on front

we need it where the weight is aka back

also exhaust fan working

will turn on to cool down enclosure, still need to test it though

[formal marsh]

tested, takes a little longer to heat up due to the tube connected, might design something that shuts when the fan is off but opens with airflow on the right direction

(dont really know the name)

other than that the fan is stupid powerful to the point of holding the door closed due to air pressure, not sure if I can configure it with pid control, for now it's watermark but it means either 100% or 0

[formal marsh]

now that I think about it, i have been taking the bed to 110 on enclosure warmup tests and the printed supports are holding up (they were supposed to)

[formal marsh]

trays for SSR and buck done
buck is now at 5V for LEDs 😄

[formal marsh]

accepting tips on how to remove a single microfit male pin

I don't want to lose this connector as I don't have extras

[pale cloak]

Do you have a SIM card remover?

Or something equally thin and long and probe-y?

[formal marsh]

I do have

ill try it

just need to find it

[pale cloak]

You want some fine sandpaper, too. Thin it out even more.

[formal marsh]

cant find any, paperclip sanded down?

gave tweezers but none worked yet

[pale cloak]

paperclip could do, yeah

Let me show you what you're trying to emulate

[formal marsh]

got something better needle

[formal marsh]

yeah I saw their 25usd tool

[pale cloak]

It works, but it's ridiculously priced

Mine will break soon

[formal marsh]

that's my gripe with it

wait you have one

[pale cloak]

yeah

Saved quite a bit of money in reused connectors

But it's a pain

[formal marsh]

I'll try later, maybe a sewing pin

[pale cloak]

Oooh that's a good idea

[formal marsh]

sewing pin didn't work, ended up using tweezers

female pins are worse didn't get one out but I didn't need yet

[pale cloak]

Did tweezers do it?

[formal marsh]

yep

for.male pins its easy

[formal marsh]

well leds are wired on the box, next wire them outside into the enclosure and test

[proud marsh]

I ruined the thing and ended up cutting/recrimp(I have only 2 spare pins now!) and use the spare connectors

[formal marsh]

wondering if I can use a pin other than the fan and led ones for output on the thr

I was planning something fancy with leds, an rgb one for the shroud and 2 white ones for nozzle light

[formal marsh]

printing white led holder to put on the enclosure

meanwhile will try to wire them

[pale cloak]

Typically there are a bunch of spare pins. BLTouch pins, for example

[formal marsh]

will have to test them

or use a fan

[formal marsh]

I keep getting a slight warping on parts need to find out why

too much cooling?

[formal marsh]

well leds don't turn on, I wired them to DO instead of DIN

🤦

[formal marsh]

they alive

now think of connections amd how I'm going to put the wires to the other side

maybe a small U shaped piece with a few screws and goes in the front

[formal marsh]

I like this

[formal marsh]

damn you first layer

doesnt want to stick

[pale cloak]

Glue stick?

[formal marsh]

I don't like to use additives

nothing is sticking well

this or other stuff

adding more squish

[formal marsh]

🤦 needs a brim

annd not yet

tired of wasting filament

[proud marsh]

scrub well the pei with dish soap and try again, that and re calibrate the switch offset a million times did the trick for me

[formal marsh]

yep already did

switch offset is at .5 now

but that piece is 1mm thick

added a brim its going well now

[formal marsh]

printed fine, kid broke it before I could even test fit it -_-

FSCK ME

[formal marsh]

anyway need to redesign the screw pieces

and I don't have short screws

[formal marsh]

2 new ones

printing second led strip holder

after that solder more wire and put it all in place

[formal marsh]

so this is the webcam box and the actual content

designing a new one

smaller case means I can easily fit it in the front rather than the crappy position in the back

first iteration

need to add something to hold it in place

[proud marsh]

what is the size of the pcb? I took some measures of mine the other night, I am not sure if I want to make a fixed-angled mount, or something adjustable like this #1072241473489219705 message

[formal marsh]

complete box 48x30x19

[proud marsh]

mine is something like 38x23mm

[formal marsh]

all walls are 2mmthick

pcb 40x25

[pale cloak]

I think I'm going to tear apart a camera now. Thanks!

[formal marsh]

gopro style mount (not sure if there is a proper name)

[formal marsh]

hehehehe just found that they might be smaller?

I need a faster printer

[pale cloak]

Wait, why?

[formal marsh]

I had to wait for a print to finish

[pale cloak]

fair enough

[solar stratus]

I need to finish my k3 build

[formal marsh]

I have been looking at your log waiting for news

[solar stratus]

To many projects lol

[formal marsh]

not bad for v1

[solar stratus]

That's the update

[formal marsh]

printing halted due to light installation

[solar stratus]

Was also delaying waiting for that part

[formal marsh]

it still counts as progress

[proud marsh]

I can’t find your log anymore, annex discord is so busy. what size are you building?

[solar stratus]

I only have a build log on the fabreeko discord, posted some pictures here. But its a k3 180mm build

[proud marsh]

that’s why I couldn’t find it in the annex server 😂

[solar stratus]

thier server layout confuses me

40 forums, but all for questions

then for build log, just single posts...

I do have a few pictures in their build log channel

not sure why they do not have a forum for build logs yet

[formal marsh]

the TR beta ones are well structured

[proud marsh]

I really love the k3, I am still fantasising about my next printer build, I think it will most likely be a v0, because is relatively simple and cheap, but I’m eyeing the small k3 😍…

[formal marsh]

because I CAN!

[formal marsh]

printing third hopefully last version of cam case

then supports

[formal marsh]

and leds came off

damn bad glue

[gleaming whale]

You going the full led colour status macros?

[pale cloak]

That is a beefy exhaust fan.

[tired pike]

Try VHB tape 5952F

that's how I tape mine

[formal marsh]

yep still in it's basic form but the idea is to have them red/orange when heating up, white during print and possibly red on errors etc

[formal marsh]

and I love it, cools down the enclosure fast (provided there's air intake)

[gleaming whale]

There is already a set of macros somewhere for all that kind of stuff.

[formal marsh]

@tired pike where did you get it? not finding online

[pale cloak]

https://pt.mouser.com/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Specialty/5952-1-2x36yd?qs=IxkTz59VrcFdmsvaaa5V2g%3D%3D

Ironic that they still use imperial units when selling outside the U.S.

[formal marsh]

122eur

hell no

I need like 25cm

[tired pike]

Try Amazon

Promoção do dia: 3M VHB Fita adesiva 5952F - ótima aderência à maioria das tintas em pó, metais, vidro, madeira selada, acrílico, policarbonato, ABS - 19 mm x 3 m, preto, espessura 1,1 mm (1 unidade) https://amzn.eu/d/hq7tShs

I even have a power supply taped to bottom panel and it's not moving from there

[formal marsh]

tell me your secret, I searched on amazon and could only find the ones that would not ship to Portugal

looks good to even glue the led bars instead of screwing them to the enclosure

[tired pike]

Are you searching in Amazon.es?

I can send you a link to you directly

[formal marsh]

yep I was

that link you sent works

thanks

[formal marsh]

"foot" for the camera

[formal marsh]

45degree doesnt work very well printing a straight one now

[blissful ice]

Nice!

[formal marsh]

straight works but need the wire on the other side of the case, so printing a new one again

ends up being a good thing as I have increased the tolerance for the piece that holds it

[formal marsh]

UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Add exhaust fan to enclosure ✅
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour
Crimp all remaining microfits
Test black or white led attachment ✅
Mount all the new stuff ✅
Mount new bed brackets ✅
Arrange wiring on frame
Start planning EVA3
Lubricate rails and lead screws (yeah this should have been done a long ago)

list is getting smaller

[formal marsh]

might need to raise it further

[solar stratus]

I had mine low like that and quickly raised it

And want to raise it even more now

[formal marsh]

after this print finishes a new one will be printed at least twice as high

[solar stratus]

I modeled up a new arm for mine to move it again.. but have not printed it yet. I also do it the hard way and print fixed mounts.

[formal marsh]

mine is fixed as well

only one pivot point really

[solar stratus]

Zero pivots here

[formal marsh]

oh dear

it does have one advantage though, nothing can move due to vibration

[solar stratus]

Always the same view

[formal marsh]

meh need to clean the build plate again

this thing when it sticks is awesome but when it doesn't crazy warping

[formal marsh]

still having some random skips

[formal marsh]

also need to wrap up those connectors on omnibox, secondary pico is getting hot

(I got wires going through the fan hole)

[formal marsh]

wires a lot more hidden now, toolhead not good yet

[solar stratus]

I have side cutters if you want to "hide" them

[proud marsh]

and I wonder if there is any recommendation about the angle and the position of the camera, I was thinking to mount it (0 pivot) above the right tensioner tower (or left), I’m eyeballing the desired angle but I feel that I’m reinventing the wheel

[formal marsh]

I have those too but it would hide them too much

@proud marsh it will depend on camera angle as well, I do like it center front but I'll need to raise it further

[formal marsh]

getting crazy with this extrusion issues randomly stops filament was not stuck as soon as I got near it continued

[tired pike]

see if the extruder lever is not broken on the lower pivot

it usually happens

[formal marsh]

it would be permanent failure no?

I'll check it after this print finishes/fails though

[tired pike]

no.. its just that the gears don't make the same force together constantly

I have seen it happen

[formal marsh]

I'll get into it

in 15minutes or so

[tired pike]

My sherpa is there to try it on but i'm afraid of that

[formal marsh]

this one has behaved nicely so far, the whole thing is SLS PA12

[tired pike]

yes it should be fine

[formal marsh]

worst case I'll replace the gears as well, got extra waiting for the tradrack

[tired pike]

Annex tradrack?

[formal marsh]

yep

[tired pike]

nice

[formal marsh]

got in the beta

[tired pike]

i'm printing right now ERCF

[formal marsh]

got everything except the motors and need to print the parts

this thing is way simpler than ERCF

I'm loving the design so far

[tired pike]

yep

[formal marsh]

since I want to get new steppers for the printer I'll recycle the old ones for the rack

[tired pike]

I think it too but the firmware and that, I think I will be better with the Voron comunity

That part is not my strong

[formal marsh]

got it

[formal marsh]

a little disappointed with the oseq sheet, adhesion is not great

that or I need to wash it properly

[proud marsh]

I struggled quite a bit with a new oei sheet from fysect, than after the final round of calibrations, scrubbing and washing, it rocks

[formal marsh]

supports? what is that?

[formal marsh]

and right after a 14min and 34sec PETG benchy

https://www.youtube.com/live/Rn0qkeKt3gw just in case anyone is interested

[formal marsh]

second one now with photos 14minutes (quality sucks)

[fallen shadow]

Maybe the filament is a bit wet and needs drying?

[formal marsh]

nahhh just too fast

[formal marsh]

tuning abs temperature, damn love the enclosure no fumes

ABS+ though, but since it was already open its nice to try

[fallen shadow]

14 min is fast. I have barely used ABS+. I have started using ASA and forgot I had that in the closet.

[formal marsh]

the benchy was PETG 😅

ended up finding I used the wrong settings on the benchy, 10minute one may be possible

but I want to try a zerog cube first see how it comes out

[proud marsh]

are you using SS?

[formal marsh]

prusa

somehow I had 5 walls instead of 2

[proud marsh]

I am procrastinating too much (still kind of sick 😫) I wanted to run a speed benchy for weeks, I keep postponing… what have you changed to go below 14. I’m. stuck at ~15-12 min (predicted)

[formal marsh]

14 was 25k accel, 400mm/s on everything and I had 1mm retraction 🤦 and 5 walls

this is the time from when it starts first layer up to the end of the chimney

no minimum layer times, no maximum extrusion rates nothing

.25 layers with width of .5 (nozzle is .4)

I do have video of it as well

and now the first layer doesnt want to stick -_-

later

[proud marsh]

abs?

and the same z-offset setting as petg?

[formal marsh]

always the same

does it like higher or lower

[proud marsh]

petg likes it much higher

in my experience…

[formal marsh]

interesting as both pla and petg were sticking with the same height

also the damn abs temp tower stuck way too well

[proud marsh]

pla and abs are around the same for me

I once printed petg where nothing else was sticking, it was around 0.1 above the value that worked consistently with asa

There is a variable in the z calibrate macro, that could be interfaced in the start print macro, so you could set special gcode to modify the z_switch offset for different filament, in the slicer

I still haven’t done it, I just comment the value in yaml, tune the new material and firmware restart 😅

[formal marsh]

oh but I will

found it
# Adjust the G-Code z-offset if needed SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z_ADJUST={params.Z_ADJUST|default(0.0)|float} MOVE=1

but using this on filament gcode is a problem

unless I check what layer is being printed

doesnt work with multimaterial

[proud marsh]

yes, I think it works only if yoh use it in the start print macro

you need to put somewhere in the setting override of the filament

I think… never done it myself, just speculating 😅, as usual

[formal marsh]

needs to be start print but start print needs to know what filament it is

[proud marsh]

in Orca there is a filament specific override, each filament can have different settings, include overriding the start gcode

must be like this also in PS

[formal marsh]

there is but its run every time filament changes

[proud marsh]

so you set the default gcode with a default value you like, and modify it eventually for filament that have a different requirement

[formal marsh]

won't work on a rack

[proud marsh]

not the start gcode

[formal marsh]

I want thia generic

I cant override start gcode on filament with PS

[proud marsh]

if layer > 0 skip else… 😝

[formal marsh]

still no because multiple colours on layer 1

I'll see if I can get the material type in the start gcode

it's enough for me

if PETG do this, if pla do nothing etx

then I just need to tune it for no offset and all other materials get a +something

[proud marsh]

yeah, I seldom use petg, and abs pla have similar/same offset

[formal marsh]

fwiw petg was being printed with .25 layers, abs since its zerog cube same

tower was .2 and went good

I'll tune it with a single layer print of each material and roughly check thickness

not today anyway

[formal marsh]

also found that I can get the filament type for the start gcode

that might work for a generic approach for each material

need to search if there's a more specific field

hopefully a note with a specific format

[formal marsh]

been away from the printer returning tomorrow with a way to adjust z offset based on filament

[pale cloak]

I'm intrigued.

[formal marsh]

prusaslicer

[formal marsh]

re-adjusted z offset

macro in place

printing ABS now and lets see if it sticks

if it does swapping to PETG with offset to test

we do have a first layer sticking might be a little too low

flow was not tuned for this filament either so it might be that, I'll be happy if it prints the whole thing well

[proud marsh]

what fan speed with abs? in my enclosure (which is not even sealed yet) I had to bump it up to 40~60%

[formal marsh]

let me see

40 currently

overhangs 100

enclosure at 37 and rising

need to add some enclosure preheat code as well

also one of the picos is at 70C I really need to crimp the remaining microfits to put the fan in place

[formal marsh]

need better pictures this is from the camera doesn't look bad, there seems to be some z wobble

[proud marsh]

nice! maybe some PA (the edge at the left of the X seems strange, I guess it could be PA). I wonder if you could try adding some oldham couplers 😅

for the maybe-z-wobble (it’s only visible on the first picture)

[formal marsh]

crappy 10min benchy is crappy

[formal marsh]

it's most likely flow and PA

I didn't tune either of them yet

5mm pin doesn't fit, m3 fits but tight

first layer might also be a little flow relates

[formal marsh]

woke up wondering how many hours before any component breaks on average

[pale cloak]

Hopefully at least one more day?

[formal marsh]

I'm serious, trying to run the math on how much an hour of printing costs me in terms of hardware wear

[pale cloak]

Ahhh, that's a fair question. Gargamel would say they're all consumables, so the question is how soon.

Maybe give everything a max running lifespan. Like 24/7 for 5 years. If you don't expect it to break, assign it that value (steppers, for example).

Belts will wear sooner. Maybe fans, too. Some stuff needs maintenance to not wear out, which is a different form of cost (cleaning and lubing rails, for example)

[formal marsh]

steppers have supposedly 6000h lifetime

[pale cloak]

So there's one fixed value, and I imagine others have MTBF available, too

[formal marsh]

assuming it's the same for everything costs me 0.12e per hour

[pale cloak]

That's not too bad, really

[formal marsh]

realistically should be lower, I included the whole bed in the math

[pale cloak]

Yeah, I don't see that having fatigue-related failure, lol

[formal marsh]

rails with maintenance might make more

belts less

hotend I have one that's questionable if it's still good

[formal marsh]

having a hard time seeing any difference

[pale cloak]

agreed

[solar stratus]

What's the range

You cut off the numbers

[formal marsh]

0 to 0.08 default from ellis generator

sorry I was so focused on the test that forgot the numbers

[proud marsh]

maybe the flow is still too high? 🤔

[formal marsh]

flow should be calibrated after PA IIRC

[dapper latch]

1. 😀
2. Every component has an MTBF but it’ll be impossible to calculate our machines’ overall MTBF because we mess with out machines too much to calculate how much time it’s operational vs how much time it isn’t.
3. I have not had issues with stepper motors, mainboards, stepper drivers, bearings. I don’t keep spares of these items.
4. Fans are pretty reliable but one should keep spares (especially given that they are cheap). Other electronics (CAN toolhead boards) are pretty garbage and spares should be kept
5. Linear guides should be serviced (cleaned, regreased) as often as you’re doing a major work.

[dapper latch]

Flow-PA-flow, as they tend to affect each other

[pale cloak]

I try to keep spares of boards, drivers, and bearings. It helps me cut down the proposed cost of a new build. On hand stuff is free in my logic. 😆

[dapper latch]

I have plenty of boards I replaced and won’t ever reuse, thus not considering them “spares”.
Based on past track-record and reliability, I decide what I want to stock up on, and naturally it’s easier (more bearable, that is) when the items are cheap.
I’d love to keep two M8P as spares, but it’s cost prohibitive…

As for new builds - I call this fiction! 😆 I self-sourced the two of my last builds, somewhat relying on parts I had, and this ended up being more than purchasing a “kit”…

Don’t get me wrong - I love stocking parts and materials. Im always happy when I need something and I have it at hand. I don’t live in a location where next-day delivery is available, and the fastest ever was 10 days or so, often above 2 weeks. Can’t even rely on local shops, as those often don’t have what I want, or the prices are insanely high.

Last but not least - I have little monsters on the part drawers and they should be fed too 😂

[formal marsh]

I feel you on the delivery times

unless I'm willing to pay extra to get the stuff from amazon (if they have it) I'm stuck with ali for a lot of specific stuff

[proud marsh]

I'was recently made aware of the price of a manta+drivers+cb1 (I subconsciously don't sum things up so what I would/spend it's not real), and I was a bit shocked. I would argue that albeit the m8p is better all-around, reusing a pi (or similar sbc) +2 pico, maybe stacked with each other since they have the same format, it's a competitive choice. unlikely to burn all 3 pieces of hardware and relatively cheape to stock an extra of each

[formal marsh]

that's almost my setup, dual pico but no pi

[dapper latch]

BTT seem to have raised the price of the M8P gradually since it was introduced due to gaining popularity. I share the feeling of being shocked when I bought the last one.
Still, I will use no other board on any future build unless a better alternative is made. Convoluted setups are no longer my thing, I spent all my energy on something like this and that was enough.

[pale cloak]

The Octopus has the same feature set save the integrated CM socket. If you've got a spare regular Pi, it's a cheaper alternative.

Well, not the 4-pin fan ports

[dapper latch]

That CM socket is the whole point. Any additional cable, be it USB or other, is added convolution and something that will fail/break.

[formal marsh]

I'm happy with this filament 😁

next purple to finally reprint the.merc parts

but first got an order 😅

[formal marsh]

first iteration of a brush piece to mount in the back with klicky clearance

[solar stratus]

so I had mine in the back like that, and klicky would still hit the brush during some moves

[formal marsh]

Hopefully it works with my start print macro

Might be an issue if homing with it attached though

It's printed I'll find out soon

[formal marsh]

of course v1 has issues, 5mm short can't attach on the extrusion there otherwise toolhead hits it

[proud marsh]

on the side is not viable? Iam using turtle nozzle brush, slightly modified by vinnoc, and it works like a charm

[formal marsh]

I'm stubborn

[formal marsh]

I also forgot the tolerance for the pieces to fit together 🤦

I'll redesign to attach on the lower part of the extrusion and figure out a way to adjust height

something like this maybe

[late veldt]

Heh I've also been planning to eventually add a brush mounted like that to be able to put led strips on the side

[formal marsh]

this one is for the back

[gleaming whale]

I keep thinking of going QuickDraw with some of these things, those rc servos are cheap

[formal marsh]

@gleaming whale I have thought about it as well but I don't want to add extra complexity

[gleaming whale]

I was thinking of making a deployable klicky style probe with one, like a bltouch. So the tool head didn’t need to fetch a probe

[formal marsh]

my goal was to have the brush out of the way probe wise im fine with klicky

[formal marsh]

taps arrived

now I need the screws and time

and make sure I have a 5mm drill bit

[formal marsh]

happily printing away

[pale cloak]

wow

[formal marsh]

25 done 25 more on the plate

[formal marsh]

also loving firmware retraction

[proud marsh]

loving the brush + bucket… so you’ve given up and settled on the side? 😅

[formal marsh]

no but I need to print these asap

these are an order need to dispatch it

[formal marsh]

I'm redesigning the brush to attach below the extrusion

[formal marsh]

@proud marsh new one

[pale cloak]

looks good

[formal marsh]

Since I got the shorter screws I have hidden the wires for the leds

[formal marsh]

was hearing some rattling, damn screws on the toolhead are getting loose time to retighten EVERYTHING and add some glue to the ones I'm not touching in the near future

[formal marsh]

FW retraction paying off

[formal marsh]

notes for.myself, brush needs to be 4mm higher with new mount that I think is done, needs to be also 16.5mm closer to the bed I know I changed it not sure by how much

[formal marsh]

Black ASA arrived, screws for blind joints arrive today as well along with POM nuts for leadscrews and LDOs for AB

time to update that todo list

[formal marsh]

UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour
Crimp all remaining microfits
Start planning EVA3/micro mantis?
Lubricate rails and lead screws (yeah this should have been done a long ago) 🕐
Print SCS (because why not)
New brush piece 🕐
Add BTT filament sensor
Replace A/B motors
Add blind joints

[formal marsh]

I screwed up, POM nuts are tr8x4 I needed tr8x8... well if anyone wants 3 tr8x4 POM nuts let me know

otherwise to use these I need new leadscrews

[formal marsh]

took me a while but it fits

[formal marsh]

@proud marsh it's possible

[formal marsh]

might release it in community

[pale cloak]

Vote that we change the "Super Active" role to "Hyperactive" 🤣

[trim halo]

Is that a silicone nozzle brush?

[pale cloak]

I believe so, yes.

[formal marsh]

it is

specifically a kitchen one cut

well replacing motors today

[formal marsh]

new motors are in

belt tension is crap

double checked everything still crap

it's always B

[formal marsh]

ok for some reason belts are rubbing a little on the towers, weird they were not before

anyway might as well just start working on printing 1.1.5

[gleaming whale]

Check with Dutch first, was a few trouble shooting threads with this even on 1.1.5 and he said there was something out of alignment

[formal marsh]

I know what's wrong just don't understand the why

I just got tower out and tower in

[formal marsh]

went up to 40k accel and 600mm/s after that I start losing steps on Y motor

I really need to re-adjust stepper towers the belt slightly rubbing might be the problem

[formal marsh]

not perfect but a lot better

[formal marsh]

also added a rubber mat under the enclosure in an attempt to reduce vibration propagation on the house since the table is bolted to the wall

so far sounds better

[pale cloak]

I wanna get a mat like that

[formal marsh]

https://www.amazon.es/-/pt/gp/aw/d/B08TCCR717?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image this is the one i got so at least you hape specs to compare

[pale cloak]

Nice, thank you

[formal marsh]

found that I need to buy a 5mm drill bit

might just get a cheap set and replace them when needed

[formal marsh]

plans for today and next few days

• disassemble the entire frame
• tap all extrusions
• drill all holes for blind joints (drill bits arrive monday)
• reassemble the whole thing hopefully straighter

[gleaming whale]

wd40 will work for tapping, its better than nothing. key is to go in then back off a little then back in then back off. Lets the swarf thats built up to clear and stop binding.

[formal marsh]

@gleaming whale it's pretty much what I got and I want to disassemble and tap today

might print a small spacing guide for the holes before in order to be more consistent

[formal marsh]

printing guides before I start disassembling the whole thing

[formal marsh]

decided to finally do the microfits before disassembly as this way i know everything else works

22 pins done, fucked up 4

[formal marsh]

26 to go

I'll have to redo this panel sometime in yhe future

[formal marsh]

6 to go

drill bits arrived way more than I need

[trim halo]

Do you have a pic of the rest of this external electronics box? I have been thinking of doing the same and after some inspiration 😀

[pale cloak]

The project is called OmniBox. 🙂 https://jon-harper.github.io/OmniBox/0.9.10/

[formal marsh]

WHYYYYY

I got no pins for these

[formal marsh]

@pale cloak whats the name of these?

[pale cloak]

JST PH

Stepper motor, right?

[formal marsh]

yup

[pale cloak]

yeah, ph

2.0mm pitch. Small, but workable to replace.

[formal marsh]

thanks, I'm starting to understand your hate towards jst

IF I HAD ONE!

[pale cloak]

https://tenor.com/view/kermit-darkside-star-wars-evil-innerme-gif-14818845

[formal marsh]

I'll jerry rig an extension with another one and a quick solder heat shrink thing

I'll deal with them later

[pale cloak]

I tail all of mine in MF3 with the pins in 1A 1B 2A 2B order. Saves a lot of trouble wiring them again later. Just a thought that might be handy.

[formal marsh]

tempting

my dfrobot motors came with jst and ferrules another bulkier option

MF hurts my wallet

[pale cloak]

JST SM also works up to 3A

[formal marsh]

that I like.more

[formal marsh]

feeling tenpted to get a 12pin microfit for all 3 z motors and a 8pin for AB

might save a lot of space

[formal marsh]

ok everything working again

had 2 wires break inside the insulation

I also forgot to print a drill helper for 2040

[pale cloak]

Muahahaha

[formal marsh]

time to disassemble, no way back now

[formal marsh]

rip

also broke other pin

[late veldt]

Rip

Btw, what do you use the wagos for

I got them but not really sure what I would need 3 for haha

[formal marsh]

just for the bed connection

I can show the rest of the cable

[late veldt]

Ah, are you using a mains powered heater?

That might explain it

[formal marsh]

yep

otherwise I'd be using xt60

could use as well but need 3 wires

not that practical

[late veldt]

I see

[formal marsh]

ended up using 2.5mm wirw

[late veldt]

I am probably not as thoughtful as I should be about the gauge of wire I use lol

I have a bunch of 22AWG wire and I just put that in, drive whatever load I think might be highest and see if the wire feels warm

So far it has been fine

[proud marsh]

22 awg should be good in average, up to 7A I think. my power plug has a 6A fuse, and it never went off even with a rapido full power on… however for certain things I’d like a larger safety buffer, I’d hate that the wires are the thing to fail before the fuse triggers 😅

[late veldt]

Haha yeah, especially for the canbus cable I've been looking into getting something a bit better

[formal marsh]

I have been using 0.5mm²

aka AWG20

[formal marsh]

too tight? 😅

[formal marsh]

damn this is a lot of screws

[proud marsh]

you could just add few extrusions and go for the beta enclosure 😝

[formal marsh]

NO!

no more money

it's already a mess as I don't have the proper tool to hold the tap 😅

2 are done but damn I expected this to be easier

using a drill is risky

[proud marsh]

I don’t think you save that much, rising to ruin the hole

I’m curious about the end results, how much stiffer/squared the frame becomes 😛

[formal marsh]

@proud marsh so am I

all taps are done, all holes as well

[formal marsh]

frame is assembled again

[pale cloak]

Nice and square?

[formal marsh]

not 100% happy with it but does not wobble when I put any face on a flat surface

(except back I'm blaming the center extrusion as it's not the same exact profile)

unfortunately I screwed up 2 blind joint holes they're not exactly where they should so 2 screws are not properly tightened (one is that middle extrusion) I'll need to add a plate on those

my goal was to re-add the corner plates, might be overkill

so still have those to add, but basically now any joint where I could add a screw I did, as an example bottom left front has 4 screws, 2 for the base 2 for the vertical, top back left has 3, 1 on back extrusion, 2 on side one

as a self reminder, DO NOT PUT PLATES ON THE BOTTOM

[pale cloak]

Looks nice. The crossbar came out well.

[formal marsh]

lowered slightly more

might be a problem with the camera mount

shit

[proud marsh]

no, you will make a taller mount or change the place for the camera 😝, I like it, it seems solid

[formal marsh]

talleeeeeer

[proud marsh]

so mantis? you won’t have issues with the hotend protruding a bit forward

[formal marsh]

now that it allows for easier hotend swap

I'm undecided again

might print EVA3 and mantis

there's still one thing I like on EVA3 that mantis doesn't have, the sensor below the extruder

great for the rack

may be possible though

[proud marsh]

it’s just a d2f switch with a 4mm ball, right?

you just ask, in a couple hours it will probably be available for all supported extruders for the mantis s and m 😂

[formal marsh]

I wonder if he sleeps 😅

[proud marsh]

I am so ashamed, I have to finish to design the corner of a door, for the enclosure, it 3 weeks now, and still can’t find the motivation to do it, and some people just crunch stuff on the cad 😩

[formal marsh]

I would crunch if I had the time

but life

[proud marsh]

it’s a corner, I have the code, I just need to measure and modify the real thing 😅

[formal marsh]

work kid etc

[proud marsh]

same, and when I have time I lay on the couch writing on discord to score on the rank of the bots 😂

instead of doing stuff

[formal marsh]

so corner plates are in place doesn't seem to wobble, corner to corner has a deviation of .5mm worst case scenario

[proud marsh]

I think it’s as squared as it can be, using “bare hands”, you probably can make the gantry more squared by correcting any deviation with the Y rails position

[formal marsh]

I'll find out today

[formal marsh]

and 2 hydra arms are in

one to go

[formal marsh]

all in witn leadscrews

[formal marsh]

aaand gantry is almost there again

[pale cloak]

You're making a lot of progress today

[formal marsh]

this think will be running today again

mark my words

(or before I sleep even if after midnight)

all that remains are front towers and wiring

and fix the fscking broken wire

ordered new jst

will recycle the wires that have the ferrules to add the jst between

now that I think about it wiring won't be clean today as I'll need to take it out

[pale cloak]

don't need to mess with zip ties and how it looks, then

[formal marsh]

yup only the toolhead one

easier

at least I'll know if the effort pays off

[formal marsh]

IT MOVES!!!!!!

bed heater is not even connected

but I don't care

Retries: 2/5 Probed points range: 0.110000 tolerance: 0.200000

YES!

[pale cloak]

🔥

[formal marsh]

reducing tolerance to .1 and running a tilt after this mesh

see if it can do it

first thing it will print are 2 new belt clips

current ones are curving

before it can no longer print replacements

ehhhh

expected better 😭

but I no longer see those curved corners upwards

Retries: 1/5 Probed points range: 0.080000 tolerance: 0.100000

tilt is damn perfect

I have a bad feeling about that bow in the back

well it has improved, still like .05 difference now

[proud marsh]

is the pei on the bed?

[formal marsh]

yep

well either my couplers are getting loose

or I forgot to tighten them

this at least explains why my mesh was falling

[solar stratus]

I have done that after swapping hydra parts

More than once

[formal marsh]

glad I'm not alone

heh acceptable

[proud marsh]

I think I have a similar mesh, the tilt can go very low, 0.01-0.03 at times, but it’s usually ~0.06-0.09

and I think something is wrong with my couplers, if I pull , the screws get right off, no matter how hard I tighten them 🤔… i am sure I missed a cornerstone step, and discovered it now after several months

[formal marsh]

you need new ones maybe

tried to print a single layer, spaghetti

need to check z offset calculation and clean the damn bed

and the material based compensation

[formal marsh]

aaaand found another lookse coupler

should have double checked them all

[formal marsh]

better jst are here

[pale cloak]

I get caught out with that one frequently for some reason

[formal marsh]

still fucky

gantry may be still bad

Retries: 1/5 Probed points range: 0.040000 tolerance: 0.100000

[solar stratus]

You can try rotating the x 2020

[formal marsh]

thanks for the tip 😉

trying to raise the upper left extrusion in the front and see how it changes

(based on RR commisioning guide let's see if I see any difference)

looking flatter

not by much tough

test print time

[formal marsh]

not bad, will print new belt clips and attempt the problematic print after

(aka .1 layers)

but damn that tilt looks pretty good

[formal marsh]

So I definitely had improvements I was able to print a first layer at .15 that before was impossible

[formal marsh]

back in the box after wiring

all that remains is the camera but that one will be later as I need a new support

might rotate the X extrusion as per @solar stratus suggestion

other than that I'm happy

[pale cloak]

Looks sharp

[formal marsh]

time to print what rushed me into this frame rebuild

UPDATE

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Upgrade to 1.1.5 and change colour
Crimp all remaining microfits ✅
Start planning EVA3/micro mantis?
Lubricate rails and lead screws (yeah this should have been done a long ago) 🕐
Print SCS (because why not)
New brush piece ✅
Add BTT filament sensor ✅
Replace A/B motors ✅Add blind joints ✅
Retune IS ✅
Double check belts ✅

looks like I forgot the most important part lubricate rails, shaper and belts

crap

I'll print anyway

also: Retries: 0/5 Probed points range: 0.032500 tolerance: 0.050000

[solar stratus]

.125 isnt that bad

[formal marsh]

around half of what I had before

also print failed on first layer will retune before

belts

@proud marsh since you were curious

there they are

looking good (at least for me)

[proud marsh]

also to me, pretty nice, especially the y always looks funky, but yours looks ok and pretty high frequency as well. new motors?

[formal marsh]

LDOs

LDO-42STH48-2504AC to bw specific

[proud marsh]

they are great! You could have done better only by using tmc5160 and going with the 280 steppers

[formal marsh]

not an option for 2 reasons, money, skr pico

[proud marsh]

same.. I was about to get the PITB few month ago, when it was at 50€ instead of 100… but than reason got the best of me

[formal marsh]

I'm done spending money now it's tradrack and that's it

[formal marsh]

and I think I might to have another damn expense

back z coupler keeps getting loose on the motor

next time it goes loose loctite

[pale cloak]

Ooof that's nice and clean resonance graph

[formal marsh]

feels good to feel like those hours spent doing the blind joints are paying off

[pale cloak]

Hope mine ends up as clear

[formal marsh]

printed some stuff things are good

next up SCS

oh wait I need a new back on the omni

well tradrack it is

[formal marsh]

aaand I need to add loctite to the bed screws

this is getting loose

[late veldt]

yeah I had to do that too

[formal marsh]

I mean 40k accel is rough

and I might need to revisit other screws

see that insert? too much loctite instead of taking the scree out I managed to rotate the insert 🤦

[late veldt]

ouch

[formal marsh]

yeahhhh so I need to get either new adapters and don't loctite them

or get CNC ones

my wallet is crying

[gleaming whale]

Change to a nylock nut then you can get a spanner on it if you want to take it off?

[formal marsh]

Assuming I can remove it non destructively

it's actually a good idea

uglier but more functional

now on to figure out how to remove the screw

[gleaming whale]

Function over form

That looks like a heat and pull situation, will be very ugly after.

[formal marsh]

I still let myself go for form 😭

[gleaming whale]

Dome nut then?

[formal marsh]

dome+loctite

I'll have to deal with it sooner or later for now this screw is tight

might try to hold the insert with pliers digging a little on the nylon

anyway AFTER I get nuts

[formal marsh]

do you if nylon ones are any good?

[pale cloak]

nyloc cap nuts do a good job, yeah

Or wing nuts, if they come with nylon

[formal marsh]

got some in my ali cart

💸💸

need to order those ASAP

[late veldt]

I didn't bother with making the nuts captive, just sticking out the bottom so they're easily accessible

[ornate flame]

Soon? 🥷

[formal marsh]

did all the taps with a wrench 😅

[ornate flame]

O no lol

[formal marsh]

hey if it's stupid but it works it's not stupid 😅

couldn't be happier with the stiffness/squareness of the frame

[formal marsh]

UPDATE (just because I want to see a shorter list)

Eventually reprint some omnibox parts as this PLA one is breaking
Upgrade to 1.1.6 and change colour
Start planning EVA3/micro mantis?
Lubricate rails and lead screws (yeah this should have been done a long ago) 🕐
Print SCS (because why not)

[pale cloak]

Oooh that is shorter

[proud marsh]

should you just update to 1.1.6 😅?

[formal marsh]

fixed, yup @ornate flame screwed over my plans by releasing a new version

[formal marsh]

ok finally planning EVA3

[formal marsh]

and I might have everything printed

including back for single and dual 5015

crap forgot the rapido mount 🤦

and shroud

but that needs design

or just use this https://www.printables.com/model/420929-eva-30-chonky-shrouds-with-led-lighting/files

if the leds from my strip for this will do

[formal marsh]

hmm need to swap that logo

[formal marsh]

I wonder if anyone did a zerog one

[pale cloak]

If anyone did, it would've been JohnJohnGib, I think

[formal marsh]

now that I think about it dual 5015 will require cooling retune for abs asa

pla will take 100%

[formal marsh]

most of EVA3 is printed, need longer screws ordered but will take a while

still need to print the face

TR is also stopped waiting on screws, buffers I'll print the ERCP ones, integrated spool holder is nice for my use case and they're light on bearings and screws

[formal marsh]

something wrong

accepting ideas

[pale cloak]

Oof, belts would be my guess

no, not oblong

Extruder?

[formal marsh]

will see my first suspicion is z wobble or some loose screw

planning to tune some cheaper white pla and run a wobble test tomorrow

[formal marsh]

well, belt tension was crap

70hz

[formal marsh]

still crap

[formal marsh]

scs fans assembled

[formal marsh]

smol

[formal marsh]

next up will be a benchy to check how well they work

also they look like a good option to help move the enclosure air while heating up

[formal marsh]

yup around 10minutes to raise up to 40C after bed reached 100

[pale cloak]

That's pretty awesome...

[formal marsh]

need to make an ABS one this is PLa

10min btw

[pale cloak]

That's crazy fast

[formal marsh]

meh quality wise sucks

and I think my hotend can't handle it either

I'll try the UHF sometime in the future

[ornate flame]

I should do a speed benchy sometime in the future

[formal marsh]

@ornate flame I'm actually curious what you can achieve with the goliath

[ornate flame]

Cooling would be an issue

[formal marsh]

do ABS needs less