two weeks of tuning…..

[viscid palm]

Sherpa mini 8T
Rapido hotend
HB steppers
Amazon 5015 blower

I’ve ran all these tests multiple times to prove everything is correct

E-Steps 100=100 22.67895. ✅
Extruder Multiplier 96-95 ✅
PA 0.032
Test Pa on/Off ✅
Input shaper W.ADXL Auto-test
Test Input on/off ✅
Hotend Temp 215 ✅
Bed temp 60. ✅
Belt tension 115 ✅
Print speed 100 ✅
check every bolt ✅
Accel 5000✅
Pid tune hotend Will redo
Pid tune bed Will redo
Z steps 16 and 4 ✅
Z backlash Installed ✅
Z flexi coupler Installed ✅

I’m getting Crazy layer lines.
Any other info I can provide.

These two same Gcode same everything. Only thing I changed while printing was extrusion factor on mainsail or FLOW on lcd screen all way down to 70% 🤷🏼‍♂️

If I set extrusion multiplier below 94 in slicer I get under-extrusion

[clear meteor]

@viscid palm put ur klipper config here

[obtuse pebble]

black prints nice though?

[viscid palm]

Haven’t tested black just that one benchy. But after looking closer it has the same lines will test another color

[obtuse pebble]

I know that pink looked worse than black for you

[viscid palm]

Config once I get home can’t pull up mainsail while out

[viscid palm]

Just the angle and light difference

[obtuse pebble]

ahh

[viscid palm]

Let me know if that works

[clear meteor]

U should look into klicky.

also u dont need run current I believe

[viscid palm]

Down the road with hydra

[clear meteor]

REVERSE dont needhold current. thats a LOT of current for 100 print speed

@obtuse pebble agree?

[clear meteor]

u can add it to the stock machine. with it easier first layers cause abl

[viscid palm]

Good old paper works wonders for me no probes here

[clear meteor]

I suggest mainsail too its way nicer than octoprint

[viscid palm]

I use mainsail

[clear meteor]

ok why include octoprint in ur printer.cfg then

[clear meteor]

ur bed could be warped. also feeler gauges are what u should use.

[viscid palm]

To remove it from lcd screen

[clear meteor]

what bowden tube u using?

[viscid palm]

Blue capacorn

Just inside the Sherpa to hotend

[clear meteor]

Ok its suggest to still have it also guiding filament

[viscid palm]

The filament travels 4in before entering Sherpa

[clear meteor]

ok

When u switch nozzle last?

[viscid palm]

I’m not using any holds

[clear meteor]

Also have u looked at ur lead screws and checked for bends?

[viscid palm]

Brand new

[clear meteor]

oh im blind

[viscid palm]

Just the last tip has a slight tweak

[clear meteor]

So did u include ur extruder TMC 2209?

wait nvm wasnt fully open

I think getting klicky is a good idea since u still will use same parts for it with hydra.

[viscid palm]

I added a flexi coupler and anti-backlash didn’t help. Also the Z lines aren’t always there

Look at the smooth print

[clear meteor]

klicky is more for ur bed meshing to see surface unevenness and compensate

[viscid palm]

This^^

[clear meteor]

Ur issue isnt Z

[viscid palm]

So is manual mesh leveling

[clear meteor]

manual mesh leveling doesn't u are mistaken. U can have a level bed manual but it can be warped. ABL fixes this, for very little with klicky.

[viscid palm]

Manual mesh acts like a probe but I have to go to the 20 so spots to check. Then it saves that Info for printing

[clear meteor]

A flexi Coupler and anti-backlash aren't needed. Anti-backlash isn't gonna add anything to ur layers.

OLDham coupling is probably what u were thinking of

those help with leadscrew bends

Is ur sherpa mini FDM or SLS?

[viscid palm]

Not sure it’s from fabreeko

It seems to have a coating over I think

Reminds me of bed liner paint

[clear meteor]

its SLS then

Ur stuff looks more like mechanical issues

[viscid palm]

That’s what I’m thinking as well but not sure where to look

[clear meteor]

extruder to begin with

[viscid palm]

But was doesn’t make sense is the very smooth print

If my ptfe tube was cut to big or bit too small would that have an affect?

[clear meteor]

NGL idk.

[viscid palm]

I did the math got the total and cut so I’m 99.9% it’s correct but that’s all I can think about maybe that’s wrong

But once again the smooth print makes no sense. Both same Gcode just one I was messing with extruder factor while printing. Got to 70% and print looked amazing.

[clear meteor]

I had issues before with touch screen

try without the screen changing stuff.

[viscid palm]

No touch screen

Did it on mainsail

[clear meteor]

screen in general

ok

this though

what slicer?

[viscid palm]

That print I have zero clue

S3D

That’s 20x20x50
At 100mm/s 5k

[clear meteor]

yea thats dog shit

like thts not the sisue there seems

ur flow should be good enough.

is it PLA or aBS?

[viscid palm]

Pla

100% fan

Printed at 215 then I tested down to 190

[clear meteor]

yae its not fans cause EVA isn't gonna point it not at 1 side

[viscid palm]

Wait

It’s three side

Front was perfect

Front side no fan (left,right,back fan whole time). It kicks to 100% at 30 layers

[clear meteor]

why that late

PLA always 100%

[viscid palm]

It ramps up

[clear meteor]

u want always 100%

layer 1 no fan

[viscid palm]

Is the fan to strong and it’s moving the hot melted plastic?

Because that sounds crazy and unlikely

[sharp anvil]

Is that a picture of the same print, the bottom pic looks good, not so much on the top...

Also saw your screen shot of S3D showing volumetric flow numbers - those are different from extrusion multiplier... I don't think EM would change volumetric flow rates that much

[viscid palm]

Two different prints. Same Gcode only change is factor % on mailsail

[sharp anvil]

can you reproduce the quality using the flow factor on mainsail? eg - set it to 70% or whatever it was when it looked good?

[viscid palm]

Not sure I will definitely have to again

[sharp anvil]

👍

[viscid palm]

After I saw that I said ok it’s gotta be my EM. So I did 90,80,70 and all looked under to then I did 96,94.92. 94 and 96 looked good so I did 95 and it looked the best

Then ran a benchy and they tube at 95 and it looks bad

Watch it just be my slicer this whole time 🤦🏼‍♂️

[clear meteor]

no

[viscid palm]

From the two prints back to back looking night and day difference what can I look act? What not to look at?

[clear meteor]

if ur one worked then use that flow on something else

[viscid palm]

Ik ik i should have done that. But like I said at the time after seeing that I figured my EM was wrong

I’ll set everything to that same Gcode on a benchy and print at the factor 70%

Wish I knew how they were correlated EM and Factor gotta be some sorta math to get a new EM based off the %

Like 98 (+,-,/,x) 70% =

[sharp anvil]

I'm not sure if flow % in mainsail is the same as EM in slicer... I'd bet they are different

98*70=68% and that seems wrong...

[viscid palm]

Same Gcode. But one with factor of 70%

Trying same at factor 90 just to see what happens

Here’s 90 compared to 100%

Running an X-Y cube at 90% check dimensionally if it’s correct and how’s it look then ill run one at 100%

[viscid palm]

We’ll xy cube looks decent but still has slight lines. Took it down to 80% and by time it was filling the top it was under-extruding

Gotta take apart hotend/set up check everything. It’s gotta be a mechanical issue might even take belts off and move everything freely and compare to how it felt after I built it Or maybe my setup isn’t capable of 100 5k 🤷🏼‍♂️

[sweet bane]

Question....... Where did you get your extruder run current from?

If your motor is the one listed in your config, that motor pulls 1.0Amps, and your config is only giving it half the power

[obtuse pebble]

sherpa mini should be set to .3 to .35 amps

its what annex has determined is the best range

[viscid palm]

Currently set for .32 ,i thought that as well was crazy low but that’s what it’s called for

[viscid palm]

Extruder factor !!!!
It is not related to EM at all. You slice a gode. That Gcode specifies E moves. If you use M221 (Set Flow Percentage) you can increase or decrease that.
There is no black magic it's a simple multiplication

Gonna start over once again. This time run Esteps at 100 F1 and see if 100 is 100 at that slow of a speed

[sweet bane]

Only said that cause my orbiter 2.0 calls for 0.7 as a run current and its the same motor

just a longer housing

[viscid palm]

Really? 🤔

[sweet bane]

Im wrong, calls for 0.85 RMS

https://trianglelab.net/u_file/2112/11/file/Orbiterv20FirmwareConfiguration-031c.pdf

so i dont know why the sherpa is so low......

(LDO-36STH20-1004AHG)

vs LDO-36STH17-1004AHG

[viscid palm]

20 vs 17 matter?

Maybe because the gearing is different requires less power to do the same

[sweet bane]

I dont know, but the motor specs seem very similar

(Yours) https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/LDO-36STH17-1004AHG-RevA_1.pdf?v=1591131824

(Mine) https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0887/0138/files/HT-LDO-36STH20-1004AHGXH-RevA_1.pdf?v=1642628306

[viscid palm]

I feel like it’s gotta be the gearing

[obtuse pebble]

I trust the guys at Annex, so I go by their numbers

[sweet bane]

Always use manufacturers / designers specs XD

Just thought it was interesting

[viscid palm]

I’m gonna swap out the nozzle just in case I got a bad one 🤷🏼‍♂️ they supplied two brass and steel I think

[viscid palm]

So nozzle checks out fine. I printed a 50x50x50 cylinder vase mode. At 100 5k left factor alone. And everything looks good. Im starting to think it’s just temp/ cooling related. On small objects I notice it. 🤔

[viscid palm]

This weekend plans : new 5015 fan, new COMPRESSOR feet from Voron BOM, gonna check rails for smooth movement and check every bolt again. Seems to be every time I check there’s always one or two that can tighten a bit more

[viscid palm]

Here’s my first print after building the mercury. Zero tuning. Still have the crazy lines. I believe they are 4mm apart will confirm distance

[viscid palm]

So before the conversion vs after. I didn’t touch the anything Z related until after testing

[viscid palm]

Yup groves are 4mm apart. I do recall I had to adjust my bed to go up even higher to reach the endstop so now I’m using all of the Z rod even the tip I wonder if it’s just the tip 😂

[viscid palm]

So swapped out my stock feet, swapped out my bad wobbly fan, swapped out my X teeth pillows with smooth ones , tightened everything again, belt tension at 115 both sides. And print looks good vs my cube I did the other day

So one of those things fixed my issue I think next ill print a benchy and compare

[viscid palm]

Cube and tube print perfect