#M1.1/EVA 3/Dual-Z/Custom enclosure
1 messages ยท Page 5 of 1
yes, my concers is that all those screw binds to a not so stiff panel, and overtime it might get damages if the cable keeps pushing ๐ค
Ahhh, I see
I know the cable will move alot, every time it homes it will try to push the panel out
What about a zip tie anchor on the inside? Keep it from slipping around.
kep it from wobbling and touch the belt close by
Yeah. Could add another on the outside, too
it's probably fine, you are right, I can see if I have plexiglass cutout that I can bolt all over the place to stiffen up the panel
And you can go back and replace it if it becomes an issue
also I have it printed already.. I am amazed how an enclosed printer is more reliable than an open air one... it rarely fails now
SO TRUE
Controlled environments are good
also, my major breaktrough with asa was to increase the cooling, from 20 to 60... it doesn't warp anymore!
Vengeful harped on that enough that I tried it. My prints look so much better.
That was close. Look at the heater cartridge.
thermal runaway?
Close. The heating element definitely got hotter than it should, but never lost contact with the heater block
Got ALMOST all of the plastic off with a heat gun
Ohh, poor Oscar! what happened?
He ate some trash, prolly. Poor dude lives in a garbage can.
Ordered a new heat block. I completed borked the old one trying to clean it. Stripped a screw possibly and can't get some of the plastic out anyway.
Provided to YouTube by Universal Music Group
Absurd ยท Fluke
Risotto
โ 1997 Virgin Records Limited
Released on: 1997-01-01
Producer: Fluke
Composer: Fluke
Auto-generated by YouTube.
this gets in my mind every time you talk about big bird
That song is a classic
"Anybody with heart votes love..."
Well, spent $30 on too much ethyl acetate because Home Depot only carries A GALLON
Got the rest of the plastic off, only to have the grub screws ruined and be unusable.
how much is that in liters anyway
Thatโs a red lizard hotend?
Yep
I already ordered another heater block as a spare, since I had a suspicion this might be unrepairable
wait that thing dissolves PLA right
Kinda yes, kinda no. It modifies it so that it softens and separates slowly.
It's squishy
might get some
to properly clean my current crazy
meanwhile I think I might try to sell the spare and buy a rapido
why do I keep having ideas to spend more money
Use acetone if it's not PLA
Lemme see about PETG
or any acid if it works
Dafuq
It's sold as an alternative to MEK here, lol
and MEK is an alternative to something even fiercer that you can also buy, because 'murica?
I'm up for that
chemicals โค๏ธ
can melt your hand? sure
can give you cancer sure
just get a lot of PPE
Tetrahydrofuran (THF), or oxolane, is an organic compound with the formula (CH2)4O. The compound is classified as heterocyclic compound, specifically a cyclic ether. It is a colorless, water-miscible organic liquid with low viscosity. It is mainly used as a precursor to polymers. Being polar and having a wide liquid range, THF is a versatile ...
That's some cancer-causing, plastic-dissolving stuff right there.
looks fun
Mayyyybe not
at least it's not FOOF
Had to look that up. Now fascinated.
LOLOL
That was rollicking.
I recognize the author from somewhere else.
only thing, acid and metal are not best friend, so if the heating block contains steel, and you use sulphuric acid, it will coat it with weird stuff
you can check the non-acetone nail polish
it should that stuff
Uhhhh, so where are we.
- Big Bird needs his new OmniBox.
- Big Bird needs a new CAN toolhead
- Might also "borrow" his hotend for Oscar
- Oscar needs a new hotend
- Oscar also needs a new trihorn, since the explosion yesterday damaged the horns.
- Need to get the MW SE-450-24 PSU out
I'll leave Oscar off for now since I need to get underneath to get that power supply out (#6), and I need it for the OmniBox.
Eh, I need more sleep first.
Added a wire anchor instead of fussing with a cable chain.
This is looking from the back left
Big Bird is back up.
The new Z axis carriage/joint is very, very compact.
Inserts are done for Big Bird's new OmniBox.
The SE-450 CAD is off by 3mm. Sigh.
doesn't work regardless?
It means the mount is too wide by 3mm and won't fit in the case ๐
sand it down?
Nah. I need to make sure the design fits correctly, so I removed 3mm from one side and am reprinting it.
Fiiiiits
noiiiiice
so many HSI
inserts everywhere, like rain
Or oprah winfrey giving out free junk
The extrusions I ordered came. I'm going to swap Big Bird's dual Z arrangement, get him running, then go back and give Oscar dual Z, too.
I've already tapped the extrusions and am printing the last of the parts
Big Bird spreads the word
Everybody with a heart votes love!
Frakking sirens. It hails every other day now.
Just below that before the storm cooled it off. It's a nasty, nasty heat, too. 50% humidity at 35C.
well crap
Been like this for weeks, and all the heat and humidity is producing crazy storms.
pretty dry here
tbh, I'm enjoying the storms, but not the humidity ๐
like 31% during the day
Oh, see that I can do any day.
but at night...
it's going to be muiltiple days near 40 during the day now
Every year Europe's heat waves seem to get worse, man
today I can already feel it worse
a lot cooler inside
those windows are paying off
Oh wow. Can see when the AC kicks in
I'm surprised you made it that late in the morning to have to need it ๐
we slept late today
bedroom is automatic
kicks in at 23.75
agressively cools for 20min and shuts down, less electricity and still comfortable
I wish I were in to home automation and such. Just not my bailiwick
speaking of automation time to add the safety one to the printer
New OmniBox with 450W PSU for Big Bird.
Working on the EBB42 replacement for Big Bird
Big Bird lives!
Now to tear him apart and replace the Z axis update the E34M1 Front module
True story: I bought extrusions that came with 5mm holes in the ends, not 4.2mm. IOW, I cannot tap the ends; the taps do not take.
Thankfully it only affected the cheapest ones I bought (300mm extrusions)
The 400mm 4020s are fine
Still, ugh.
Well, it occurs to me that Big Bird is fine and does not need to have the Z axis updated or the E34M1 Front swapped out yet. IOW, I don't need to touch this right now. Next project...
Previous To-Do list:
Big Bird needs his new OmniBox.Big Bird needs a new CAN toolheadMight also "borrow" his hotend for OscarOscar needs a new hotendOscar also needs a new trihorn, since the explosion yesterday damaged the horns.Need to get the MW SE-450-24 PSU out
Successful couple of days.
need a new todo list! you know this hobby is never finished
Lol, I was about to start making one. I decided not to make on yesterday on purpose. ๐
PENDING THINGS
Big Bird:
- Swap Z carriage for new one
- Swap E34M1 Front for new one
- Test all the things
Oscar:
- Wait on new extrusions
- PID tune (oops)
- Setup electronics for dual Z
- Figure out how to raise the printer ~10mm.
when is elmo hitting the streets?
Bruh, we don't talk about Elmo anymore. Dude's drug habit was out of control. Stole about $300 worth of CD's and my mom's engagement ring, spent all that money on ASA-CF, and OD'd his hotend right there in my office.
elmo is so pgangta
lol
yea theyu the bomb
wait did you let your todo list gwt empty?
For this build log, yes. For projects in general, heeeeeell no, lol.
I got involved in the CPAP for E34M1 and fixing up the OmniBox HSI issues.
it was for @short cove ๐
Did @short cove let his todo list get empty while he was drinking?!?
yes, when itโs close to finish and prints perfectly, you need to disassemble everything and try something different
IDK but it never finishes
If @short cove is passed out (which I suspect he is), he's gonna wake up to a bunch of notifications.
well just one more for @short cove
This is very timely, actually. I'm setting the stage to tear down Oscar and make him go Dual Z. ๐
Not a complete tear down, but there will be disassembly.
but you see, itโs true ๐
I found a trident frame for 50โฌ in the market place โฆ.. ๐ค
250 tridentโฆ so I considered getting that to rebuild completely the printer ๐
luckily Iโm too lazy
speaking of rebuild, yesterday moved hydra motors rails etc
Oooh
How's it now? Still in reassembly or back together?
Oh sweet
just unscrew towers and rails
Oh...I see.
is it extra work, sort of
I'm nervous considering it, but see the advantages.
Maybe zip tie down the rail carriages so they don't go anywhere?
putting the rails is more work but I don't touch anything else
I got some printed stoppers
Not sure if you can do it without undoing the belts, but you can slide a linear rail from one extrusion to another. Set the new extrusion next to the end of the current one, unscrew all M3s two turns, and slide.
Sometimes takes some shaking to get the nuts to move from one extrusion to the next, but takes all of fifteen seconds for the whole thing.
Agreed. I really hate running belts now. ๐
EVA 3 is the same. It was supposed to be better, but it's not.
also bed adjustment thingies are ordered
Bed adjustment thingies?
tagged you on the other aide
Printing CPAP adapters right now, but I'm also going to print a riser for Oscar. The dual Z setup pushes the motor down 6mm, which is too low. I'm trying to raise it 15mm.
@tiny bramble @feral prawn my todo list is ever increasing for my printer, I keep changing the goalposts.
Feeling recovered? ๐
Also, likewise
Yea kinda lol not feeling very pissfit
I'm a bit off myself. Glad you had fun, heh.
Printing Oscar's risers. First corner came out fine. Each one will have two EPDM feet.
I know the feeling mine is the same
Highs of 100F all week, lows of 80F. LOL FML.
37.7C heh similar here
Forgot for a second it's midday there and went, "THIS EARLY?!?"
no that was a conversion from your F temp
at that time it was like 30C
but we do expect a 37C maximum
Ah, gotcha.
I wish I could convert more stuff in my head like temperature.
CPAP is almost done, btw
Then back to raising Oscar 2cm.
I can't, i just google it
Most stuff I can get a general idea. I google anyway for precision, but wish I could get closer in my head.
aw hell
I printed the threads, tested them, and can't get them undone.
best I can is a few inches or feet to centimeters
Update:
Big Bird
- Same as before, swap Z, swap E34M1 front
- Test stuff
Oscar:
- Still waiting on extrusion
- PID tune
- Finish printing feet to raise printer
- Install Dual Z wiring
Probably will do Oscar wiring and Big Bird's dual Z upgrade first
ready to spread the word?
Don't you know about the Bird?
Or everybody with a heart votes love?
This is from a song from the 60s
bird is the word?
This one had to be done. This is the Alternate Ending, because I liked the Dance that he does at the end. I know it's a Comedian.
yep
Incredibly annoying song, unlike Absurd
just a sec
Amazing Horse played for 10 hours! Can you endure it?
RT! http://is.gd/RT10hrse FB! http://is.gd/FB10hrse
Original AMAZING HORSE @ http://youtu.be/GUl9_5kK9ts
AMAZING HORSE LYRICS:
Look at my horse, my horse is amazing
Give it a lick,
Mmm it tastes just like raisins
Have a stroke on it's mane it turns into a plane
And then it turns back again ...
one example
yes I'm not a sane person
I got lost in watching the rave penguins. That's...a weird channel.
Most my music is downtempo, trip hop, that kind of stuff.
my music is a lot of different things
chillout? sure, psytrance? of course, metal? bring it on
Toolhead reassembled. I've since shortened that hotend wire.
I messed up something in the CAN PCB wiring. Can't get BLTouch to work and the CAN fan won't come on.
you not very lucky with toolboards
Nope, not at all. Got the BLTouch working, though.
Might be the fan, though. I remember this issue before and swapping the fan.
I think I'm the dum-dum that kept the broken fan and used it again.
Alsoooo I think the new Z joint is too high. I'm at the top of the lead screw and can't reach the hotend. ๐ญ
use spacers like in the 5+?
if heโd dared to get the thr36, he would have been running BB since May ๐
hahaha possibly maybe
weโll never know. but Iโm quite impressed about the thing. I think it includes more stuff than other boards?
I don't really remember, I decided based on price
but being able to connect with ferrules instead of molex helped
Mine included a hoverboard.
me too. It was actually ldt resort since nobody else was shipping at the time. I am running 3 endstop, I donโt think mellow or btt have as many
This is power in?
power and data
Aww, I prefer the Mini Fit Jr...
3 fans as well
it will be nice for dual 5015
true, I only use 2 though. but it would be perfect for double 5015
double jinx
I donโt remember if it has neopixels ๐ค, but maybe the servo pin or something similar could be used for that
Three fan pins? That's nice...
it does
I need another output for some led on the toolhead
might even go fancy and add one on the logo
and color code it
hot? red
cooling? yellow
cold blue
something
need eva3 though
hope my petg duct survives long enough to print an abs one
Hey @feral prawn, we're now the two chattiest MFers here.
And @potent stone is coming up quick
wait I'm still in the lead?
Our meteoric leveling got lost in the pack before.
yeah, I was home ๐ค, what could I do?
do I win something?
oh no! Feel better, dude.
An E34M1 warranty. I've recently begun offering them for free.
btw need your naming ideas
what do I call the pieces I designed to use the full Voron bed on hydra?
Hyvore
Vorydra?
Tridra
would you get a new serial now that the printer you got yours was morphed back to stock?
VB4H ?
Hydrant!
no I like my beta serial
oh wait I'm on the wrong thread
@tiny bramble forgive me for the offtopic and invasion
No no, Hydrant is good ๐
Pshaw. Just wash your coffee cup before you leave.
I thought I was writing on my build log
after I drink all the coffee
Dude, I have 9lbs here.
15kg?
Wrong way. 4kg
Oh, my dear sir...whole bean.
yeah that's the word I was looking for
roasted already?
don't forget you got 2 guys from countries that enjoy coffee a lot
I'm not quite so hardcore as to roast my own
But I have considered it.
I wonder which coffe quality you get over there, and if you roast more like french press or Italian espresso ๐ค
I'm waiting on a possible batch from my in-laws
they're growing coffee
they have some beans already
I had my coffee from a local shop back in Italy, but theyโve stopped international delivery years ago ๐ฉ, so Iโm buying pretty standard beans
We. Have. Shit. Even Starbucks is giving in to cinnamon/American roasts
tried starbucks coffee beans, I had great hopes but itโs not up to expectations.. and itโs super expensive
had Starbucks once
It's the only (real) dark roast here ๐ญ
Beans or beverage?
dirty water never again
beverage
Ahh, yeah
just lost hope on them
Starbuck is only good for season special PSL and stuff like that
I worked for them for 12 years. I have zero faith in the company since 2008.
Portuguese Delta has good roasts but the best are hard to find as they mostly sell those to shops
shops as in bars etc
I'm looking for a new roaster. Anyone who can properly roast an Espresso or Italian roast.
@potent stone This is a normal American breakfast coffee roast.
There's no oil! ๐ข
they look dry not roasted
Yeah, it's sad. Dirty bean water.
I have yet to see coffee roasted like that
It dominates the American market.
We do not (on the whole).
I've never seen coffee that dry??
I'm aware exceptions exist, like Italians who don't appreciate it ๐
Starbucks blonde roasts
why did you buy starbucks?
there's your problem
Starbucks introduced blonde roasts very late. Americans who drink dark coffee have to drink Starbucks.
I've never viewed them as a quality roast, they just add so much crap that they can coffee up any bad coffee
By default, Starbucks adds nothing to brewed coffee.
They're not an outstanding roast, but not terrible, either. The quality has gone down the past decade.
everyone I see with starbucks adds crap
I've had good coffee at mcdonalds before, though thats a hit or miss
McDonald's coffee here is not bad, but then I believe they adapt to each market
wot!
oh dear I have awaken the Italian in you
Best coffee I ever had was actually an Archer Farms (Target) coffee. Tasmanian peaberry. So fucking good.
Rwandan coffee is excellent
And I can't drink anything from Indonesia at all.
I am lazy and just get amazon columibian roast on a sub, then get different roats from the store when I need to fill between the orders.
but only buy whole beans and grind it right before brewing
ahh Iโve re-read and understoodโฆ but I got pretty much shocked the first time I left Italy and ask a โcoffeโ and receive a full cup of dirty water
We would have much to discuss about coffee...
Do you make espresso?
yea you need to ask for an espresso
in Portugal coffee defaults to espresso as well
The chic thing now is pour-overs. Which I admit are quick.
yeas, that was the issue..
But they're no French press.
we donโt specify espresso in italy
exactly the same
I feel you
we ask for coffee
that's it
Are Americanos available in Europe? Watered espresso?
if younask for an espresso they would think you are a smart ass.. I donโt think they have the gear to make anything else than espresso in the average italian bar/diner
I had forgotten that, tbh. That's why I asking about Americanos. American troops in WWII couldn't get regular coffee, so they watered espresso down (to the horror of the locals).
In my machine there is the americano option, it makes. long espresso, and than literally double it with hot water
That's it, yep
my machine is Swiss
Italian machine wouldnโt do that
I had one from my old workplace, when the company was sold to a bigger one, they put everything in the office space in sale, I reached out and nobody wanted the machine (jura xf50) for 30$
Here's a more details reference on roasts. French roast should be darker than Italian, IIRC, though
I've heard Full City referred to as Viennese
when it broke (it didnโt really broke, those things are like tanks, it costed too much to repair) I exchanged it in the shop with a newer model of the same brandโฆ extremely solid machines
That's some fantastic customer service for a $30 machine ๐
what just replaced it?
Like, you could resell the new machine for what I'm guessing would be over a thousand and have only spent $30 going in
I've never seen a light roast that was actually light
I'll drink a full city, but the darker roasts are my go-to.
I think I only have seen above full city from that chart
Kind ofโฆ they gave me 200โฌ discount on a new machine
That's still great service
I think I'm going to address Big Bird's Z axis woes tomorrow. I've been staring at the CAD for an hour and have nothing.
just get hydra ๐
Lol, Hydra costs 10x or more what this does
Also it means that I have 2/3 of the motion components for Hydra if I do that later (and haven't sunk that much money in the current solution, either).
Well, I'm ignoring the cost of the linear rails, since I had those already.
soon you'll be able to use a voron bed
as soon as my printed adapters are tested
I don't advise it though, get a proper one if possible
I'm getting a large Amazon order tomorrow, lol.
Everything is printed but I'm caught up in something else, so no progress today.
Big Bird is back up. Running screw tilt calculations.
noice
New batteries for my UPSes are coming in, so I'm switching them around while I'm at it. Beefed up Big Bird's to an 850VA and going to get Oscar onto a 750. Wish I had another 850, but dunno why I only have one.
Reminder: Big Bird and Oscar are on 450W PSUs, not 350.
Grover is still on a 600VA because he's a basic Ender 5
Also have the remaining parts for Oscar's dual Z coming in today. I don't know exactly when I'll install them, though. I have a busy couple of days coming up.
ohh no the poor thing!!! what are you going to do about that?
full merc
with hydra ๐
Grover will go Merc eventually. But not for awhile.
Go vzbot awd and just full send it
Gonna be a busy day today; not sure what I'll get done or not get done./
New feet for Oscar, raises the base by about 12mm
Got the Z axis extrusions and such installed already
Whiiiiiich kinda cleared out the enclosure
I'm printing a final revision of the Z Joint file for the Z axis. In the mean time, I've got Big Bird (spreads the word and) running input shaping tests on the belts.
I can take off the build plate and carriage with four screws to swap out the joints, so I won't need to redo the bed.
Wait, damnit. Forgot that I discovered the left front idler on Big Bird is shot.
It came out of the same pack if toothed idlers that was bad on Oscar
I might just replace both
...replaced, back to belt tuning.
It's wobbly.
does not look good
trash now
Calibrate_shaper choked on my Y axis results, so I need to find out what's up there. X axis looks great. Probably something stupid rattling around on the printer (yes).
Also, looks like my Big Bird's OmniBox's 60mm exhaust fan is not working. Hot AF but not spinning.
You know what would make for a winner of an MCU board? One with standard 4-pin fan headers for every fan.
for tachometer and split pwm?
particularly the tach
I think we are going to convince him sooner or later ๐
he probably also have all the bom for it, looking at all the things heโs up to all the timeโฆ ah, the bed yesโฆ
I was looking for some workshops around in texasโฆ almost, this in Minneapolis ๐ , but it looks cool
The plate itself is not so bad, although I'd prefer a 255 https://www.fabreeko.com/collections/zero-g/products/zero-g-atp5-aluminum-beds-for-ender-5-pro-plus-hydra-conversion?variant=43866439254271
What it is:ATP 5ย cast aluminum Beds ready for Hydra conversion. available for both the Ender 5 pro in 275 by 275 and the Ender 5 plus in Stock size 377 by 370 Specs: Compatible with Hydra Ender 5 PLUS has both stock bolt pattern and Hydra bold pattern Optional Edge to Edge heater available Here 8mm thickย ATP5 manufact
And if I do go Hydra, it'll be on a big bed.
isnโt 10 inches almost 255?
ah I see fabreeko has the 275 only
No space for a nozzle brush with that
it spans all the toolhead travel, maybe some servo
Ooh fancy
Probably fancier than I want to get ๐
he almost got it out the tv!!
you donโt want to brush over your bed anyway
good point
Big Bird's OmniBox is annoying me. Sigh.
Oscar is now on dual Z
Should be triple...
It's on backorder
Pre-order backorder.
Gah. Binding.
I think I know what's up, though
It's past 4, though. I'll work on it tomorrow.
I think the 300mm extrusions that form the crossbar for the Z axis are a touch long.
May need to sand them down.
Good news is that it's only on fast moves that it causes an issue.
Binding is gone
Shaved a little off of the ends of the extrusions. Also rechecked the rail and lead screw alignments
Some adjustment to the run current, and I think Oscar is good to go.
Right on. Bed is leveled, doing some PID tuning and then a bed mesh...away we go with Oscar.
Big Bird still needs to have the rear 60mm fan fixed, and I'm admittedly avoiding that.
Two Mercs on dual Z. Total cost: $70 = $20 (2x Tr8x2 lead screws) + ~$50 (extrusions). All other parts were on hand.
the angle of that cable chain is truly unhinged
Nah, it's quite fine. I did a lot of looking into possible cable chain implementations ahead of time.
Just looks super janky
yeah i did t mean from a performance standpoint
just visually ๐
What's that dual Z information?
Instead of going Hydra, I took a bunch of parts I had on hand and built a Dual Z setup. It's mostly made of stuff taken from an Ender 3.
But the parts can be reused for Hydra, too!
It's my half-step to Hydra to save money
I'm having ideas.
Looking to maximize the available Y axis. The default Y endstop is nice, but inconvenient WRT interfering with brackets.
IOW: New dual Z setup adds a lot of Y room, but can't use it because the endstop won't move further in.
endstop inside?
It is. I need it even further back. The bracket is in the way.
remove the corner bracket?
Trying to avoid that
mine currently does not have a single corner
just the plates
might add some of those @stray comet brackets in PETG CF (for the looks)
the old ones will go with the slowpoke
The stock corner brackets tapped in the frame are definitely an issue, but these are Misumi brackets and installed to roll in tnuts. They help, unlike stock.
granted I did not test anything yet
might run some shaper charts now even without motor
sensorless homing?
Good idea, but I'm looking for a more general solution that I can use with E34M1, as well.
The Y endstop is technically part of EVA 2.4 download for some reason.
Thinking something along these lines.
or even recessed making a slot under the stepper tower?
My first thought, but I don't believe there's enough room
because like this the carriage will not be able to go further back as in the default endstop
Mrm. Good point.
you can always go negative, using the additional room, the important is not to pass the endstop completely, so the little metal flag is released and bind (and break) once the carriage goes back
There's brackets in the way and I'm trying to avoid removing them, however
yeah, the goofy creality tapped brackets
Nope. I removed them. Misumi brackets installed to roll in tee nuts.
Also a joining plate on the outside
hmm, maybe blind joint? that would remove the need of corner brackets... but that's a lot of work
I can't make a blind joint in that corner, either
Might say screw it and remove the bracket
if you have a joining plate it should be fine
Yeah, I'm just going to remove the bracket. Dang. Wish I had a better solution, though.
Woohoo!
Next up: nozzle brush
like I said mine does not have a single corner bracket and I'm not planning to
frame is pretty stiff as is with the plates
You also have blind joints in that new frame, right?
interesting, wow.
I would like to swap out these corner brackets for struts at some point, though
I squared it (as best as I could, just a little off) and didn't move yet
shaper will tell
I may add brackets anyway
for looks and extra stiffness
Aside from minor tuning and a nozzle brush, Oscar is ready to go. I may go Klicky or Beacon later.
@tiny bramble how about a endstop on the back rail? Left of the tower.
It's just needs a offset
Not deep enough because of the endstop wiring
Not enough room back there without a lot of work
This is the ZeroG Y endstop. It assumes you remove that corner bracket. I was hoping to find a way around it.
Or that you put it on the outside
But I have joining plates there, which are stronger, so I removed the inside bracket.
Look at this. I'm going to try.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1oIctHc-yBAJ3QVKxbBecmSFezQ1QZ7Mc/view?usp=drivesdk
Not sure I understand where this mounts? Between the linear rail and stepper mounts?
Yes
Oh.
you can just use the ZeroG Y endstop if you have 300mm rails. It's not an issue there at all.
I have a corner plate. ๐
On the inside?
oh! just use the flush cutters to get one off of your creality endstop.
then unscrew it
Solder the outside two pins with wires and you're done
Trim the board?
One sec, let me get a pic
I like pictures ๐๐คฃ
the y limit switch was never designed to be used with those corner brackets
dangit, can't find a pic
Right. You or dutch told me that. But what switch goes with it, so I can mount inside
but yeah, cut the pins at the board and undo the screws.
D2F-L
Ok. I'll look at it again
or you cut the pins off the factory switch, they are the same specs
just have very long pins that are angled
I have a few extras I can try it. Thanks @tiny bramble @old marten
Good luck. Feel free to stop back by if you have questions.
Didn't mean to take over your build thread ๐
lol, nbd
If you find a picture, please share
I'll take off my endstop in a sec here and send you a pic of how I did it. Give me 5.
I have all day ๐
I made a #1121069867227938816 thread and pinged you.
I think it's time I print some ABS on Oscar
After talking with @feral prawn yesterday about braces and brackets and whatnot, I decided I might as well start the ABS process on Oscar by printing some big braces.
Oof this bed mesh is gonna be terrible.
it will be fine
Hope so. I've wanted to add insulation to this enclosure and just haven't taken the time. It large, so it takes awhile to heat up.
Hehe. The 3.2mm walls on these struts are taking foooooreeeeever to print.
you'll burn through a lot of plastic for those
Got about 2.5 spools of gunmetal gray abs to use. About 110 grams a pair right now.
Might do Big Bird's in blue, though. Plenty of that, too.
I really need to look into getting more PIR foam for Oscar
how many walls/top/bottom/infill
I think I did mine with 4 or 5 walls same 4 top and 40 infill and I think they were lighter
8 walls, 20% infill. Top or bottom doesn't really do much for strength, so I left that at 4.
3.2mm walls are going to be the bulk of the strength on these. Every 2 additional perimeter added 15ish grams of mass.
I considered going 4mm to make for solid walls.
Only added another 10 grams. Sweet.
Enough dilly-dallying. I'm supposed to be cleaning.
going to be some solid boys
need to find a filament I like for mine
but damn CF is expensive
The Asa-cf I get is actually cheaper than polymaker normal asa.
if I can find it here
considering PETG CF actually
I technically got a free roll of petg-cf as it was sent to me wrong and store said their error keep it. I was thinking of using it for braces as well
I put printed braces on my 5 plus and didn't notice any change. Also heard from multiple people that it had been proven that they do nothing.
Is it more what you have it sitting on? Hence the paver under the printer?
That helped the most
The frame still twisted out of shape with those
Input shaper didn't change at all
might bolt mine to the enclosure
I'd like to know how thick the walls were for those tests
I'm printing with 3.2mm walls right now and plan to go up to 4mm.
go with metal braces if you want them to be functional
I checked into that first. Misume charges $25/ea for corner struts. ๐ฌ
I wonder if Fabreeko would be interested in doing a batch of those.
https://www.framingtech.com/20-series-6-miter-support <--this is cheaper, but is M4 threaded only
other materials than ABS?
Were tested?
no asking if you considered
you can get some stuff printed with Nylon pretty cheap
nylon flexes even more
pla is the most rigid plastic for hobby printing
but doesnt handle heat at all
peek
most PLA is modified to add flexibility anyway
PC might be a little too brittle
peek is freaking hard to print in a hobby context
near impossible I believe
look into the outside corner braces
simple plates
only downside is with panels, you need to trim panels to fit around them
to be honest mine is currently built with only corner plates
I already have them on one printer
And can't put them on the other because it's modified ๐
other fix is to not use 2020, its not rigid at all
the damn thing feels pretty solid
RR uses 3030 I wonder how much better it is
https://www.reddit.com/r/coreception/comments/jk1s48/comment/gaiej61/ <-- Interesting read. It's Reddit, so some grain of salt is needed.
4 votes and 11 comments so far on Reddit
Basically the conclusion is corner gusset brackets are best unless you can do blind joints
which is a weird way of saying it, if blind joints are best then just say that lol
lol, it was pretty long-winded way of getting to that
even the conclusion
https://www.amazon.com/Iverntech-Bracket-Brackets-Aluminum-Extrusion/dp/B0B2LJVFDD <-- These are a definite upgrade over the regular corner brackets. I might get more of these and do some testing with that.
check any brackets like that carefully
for perpendicularity?
Woosh
The ones I got previously from Iverntech didn't seem bad, but I'll check them out.
Wish I could afford a Bridgeport mill.
Didnt use my CNC mill, that was done with simple hand files, sand paper, and a small granite block/flat surface
Ya. Just wish. Make my own stuff.
gotta be able to afford the bridgeport AND the time to make stuff on it
i have a bridgeport and never use it ๐
I had access to one at work. But no more. ๐ I've looked at the table top ones. But still pricey
Making a CNC mill is on my "maybe in ten years" list
Vote Booster: Vote now for a 10% boost. https://arcane.bot/vote
Interesting.
I made up a different strut design. I'm going to print this one, as well, then test 1) without struts, 2) with the VzBot struts and 3) with these
@tiny bramble that would be great
Flow rate/e steps are off. Gotta figure that out first.
Figured that out. Printing a cali cube to make sure it's good, then off to print struts
First set of struts are printing. I'm going to reprint the others with 4mm walls, as well.
So I'm thinking out loud about an idea.
We used flanged bearings instead of smooth idlers because they have larger bearings
But the toothed idlers are needed, so we still have the problem of them having smaller bearings.
The alternative to getting a toothed idler with a larger diameter (which would require a huge redesign) is to decrease the bore.
Instead of a 5mm dowel, use a 4mm dowel. You can easily get these, and just as easily get toothed idlers with a 4mm bore.
That adds dowels to the BOM, but then my question became: what if we also got different smooth idlers, i.e. different flanged bearings with a 4mm bore?
The specs of the F695-RS bearing (https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-F695-2RS-Bearing-5x13x4mm-Bearings/dp/B085D91TW1) are:
- Bore: 5mm
- Diameter: 13mm
- O.Height: 4mm
- Flange Diameter: 15mm
- Static Load: 346N
- Dynamic Load: 916N
The specs of the F6924ZZ bearing (https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-F624ZZ-Bearing-Shielded-Bearings/dp/B07Z3DB93B/) are:
- Bore: 4mm
- Diameter: 13mm
- O.Height: 5mm
- Flange Diameter: 15mm
- Static Load: 390N
- Dynamic Load: 1106N
m4 shims are 0.5mm. A flange stack of shim + 2x 624 + shim is 11mm.
A double flange stack is 21.5mm (with shim, 2x bearing, shim, 2x bearing, shim)
Next question: will the X Joint fit? The bearings get very close to the bottom on the right side.
Yes.
Here's a sectional analysis with the belts in place
That hole at the base looks closed because I didn't get the angle to the toothed idler correct
And with a little work, the stepper mount works, too
I'm lost on what you're trying to do
Switch to 4mm dowels so I can use front idlers with larger bearings. Larger bearings = higher load rating and less likely to break and be garbage.
It happens I can also change out the other bearings, too, which also have a higher load rating and are less likely to be junk
The only real open question I have is if a 4mm dowel is strong enough. I believe it will be, but dunno for certain.
Last one: tensioner
still need to find the time to explore the AWD idea
awg corexy?
yep that idea that we discussed on @potent stone log
I like it, but I think a regular AWG is easier to implement. The belt routing scares me.
ye there's that
just a idea to play with
last thing I need is something to spend more money (already found a printable space mouse....)
Fixed Big Bird's rear fan issue. Still need to do the Z axis work, though.
Also printed a nozzle brush. Gotta figure out where to mount that.
you just reminded me I still need one too
I printed the fan shroud, just to realise I have a 3510 fan, I hate more and more the biqu h2 (I was hoping they used a 3010 but no). so I got 2 3010, 5v and a 24v, maybe always on 5v using a random 5v pin is not too noisy
hope to get them before the weekend
Just use a 4010
for the time being, Iโll do. So concerned about the thr36 temperature. without anything it still reach 80~90C, so maybe itโs a price to pay. Hopefully it doesnโt introduce nasty resonances
mine with bed at 70 enclosure around 30/35 is around 58
me too, just because I misplaced it though ๐
looks too hot
Same
need to test it with the bed at 100 though
Then I ordered black heat sinks
itโs fine as the print goes, but while printing it climb up
I have blue and black, maybe the board is complaining about it
hence get hot
I should buy a spare board
4mm carbon fibre dowel? Or 4mm m3 shoulder bolts to hold things together orโฆโฆ smaller flanged bearings that are pressed into a printed toothed cylinder for idlers.
Just swap the 5mm stainless steel dowels for 4mm, the 695 bearings for 624, and the 5mm toothed idler for a 4mm one
The changes to the printed parts took an hour to accomodate. It's not a huge change. ๐
The smaller bore leaves more room for bigger bearings, and that's all I'm really interested in
I apparently bought gates idlers, I think they just mellow ones like turtle said. Iโm just throwing out ideas. The 4mm dowel would work. From what Iโve seen over the past 3 years on bearings it pays to get decent brands and the amount of counterfeit bearings that are also sold to vendors from 3rd party suppliers is crazy. The science of round is very expensive.
This is true. I'm thinking of ways to reduce the odds of getting junk out the gate without paying much more.
https://www.duet3d.com/blog/scanning-z-probe-for-reprapfirmware-and-Duet <-- Rabbit hole on Beacon
this is an interesting read, but all the compensations beacon does are fairly important to the accuracy and consistency
looks like heโs off to a good start though
My thoughts, too. The testing and quality of hardware that beacon offers are beautiful, but it needs USB.
I basically came away thinking, Beacon needs to shed USB or this will be a threat
Okay, so Oscar is back up, better tuned, and printing another set of struts
I need to clean these lead screws and put on POM nuts for Big Bird
cat hair everywhere
POM nuts are on, but I want to take the lead screws and coat them in white lithium. They're squealing like pigs, and it's not from binding.
Okay, coated and drying
So Big Bird is up and almost ready to print
Oscar is printing, but needs more insulation to get the build chamber over 50C
PIR foam acquired.
Also printing the parts for a Sherpa Mini, since I already have them
This is not fancy, but it is 50mmx600x600mm of PIR foam. Comes to 1.5 cubic feet once I do both sides.
May cat just jumped on top of the enclosure (as she does) and stopped to sniff around because the sound was deeper and quieter. I think that's a good sign.
Sherpa Mini is going to have to wait because I can't get this grub screw off and don't want to disassemble an in-use BMG yet.
With the insulation, all that remains with Oscar ATM is testing how fast the enclosure heats up
I've had to junk the brackets I printed because they warped too badly. OTOH, Grover gets up to 50C and has no problem with large objects. I'm hoping that the extra insulation and smaller volume of air will let me reach higher temps.
I always forget not to run Screws_tilt_calculate cold
33C in Oscar right now. Going to print a cali cube and see what I get.
Aaaand of course I didn't load filament first, so I had to open it up and lost heat.
you need full bowden and a purge bucket
speaking of bucket I can finally test fit mine
It's PTFE all the way to the drybox
The purge bucket is a good idea, though I don't do filament swaps
Dang. Only got up to 41
Adjusted the thermistor so it's more in open air and am printing again
Ignore the first layer. I loaded the filament on the fly.
43C
I mean, I could just set it up in the garage.
Oscar's enclosure is supposed to have a lower door latch. It was part of the skirt that I removed and haven't replaced. I'm going to modify the original to fit without the skirt now.
Hoping the added latch will give a better seal to prevent air loss.
Latch added
Remember the BMG gear I couldn't get the grub screw free from? Swapped it with an in-service BMG and got that one's grub screw out.
Sherpa Mini just needs a motor and a shim ring.
Now just needs a motor.
Did this while I was at it. It's modified from a STEP I found on Printables.
Trying to lighten the mount even more. It's 12g.
What's the change?
A little lighter (probably) than the ones already on Printables. Accepts M3x5x4 inserts instead of the silly EVA ones. Room for lock washers for the mounting screws.
considering taking out that front mounting hole entirely since it's not required
I like this much better. Took out a lot more material and lowered the extruder 3mm. 14mm of PTFE instead of 17.
Got it down to a 9g print
Yep. Printing it now. Give me a day to test it, because I will want to tweak it.
Between these two enclosures (Grover's and Oscar's), they're about the same size. Oscar has almost twice the insulation, though. Grover has spots that are missing insulation, where it's just bare ABS panel. Oscar doesn't even get warm on the outside.
And yet...Oscar does not heat up as much.
56C in Grover currently.
no rush still on eva2
Oscar won't get above 45
do you want the file with the filament sensor option? and one-piece-gear compatible?
for EVA 3?
๐คฆโโ๏ธ
nope, I was talking about the sherpa itself
sorry, I missed some post above and thinking you were modifying the sherpa not the mount
no worries. I am interested in the idea of putting a filament sensor on the sherpa, though.
itโs super simple, and doesnโt change the design
There's one hangup...
which is
Naww, took me forever to figure it out, lol
I wanted to use it as run-out as well
I have access to what he has
Shh, that's less dramatic!
I like to brag
lol, can ya spill?
hehe, itโs work perfectly for me
The one @feral prawn planned to use is installed under the extruder instead
So it won't work as a runout sensor, because it will never trigger on runout, hehe
would need to find it first
No worries. I'm not printing or installing it immediately.
Oh
Mine is not so fancy
I can always order from jlcpcb
They were affordable, IIRC
Long term, I think I'll switch to Klicky. Beacon is expensive and too experimental still.
I still need to test out the CPAP, too.
(I'm thinking out loud right now)
Oh, I plugged a hole in Oscar's enclosure. It's a small hole, but it was letting air out, and it is located on the top. I doubt that will raise ambient by 10C, but we'll see.
I can install the CPAP when I install the Sherpa, actually. It's going to take a bit of work changing from NEMA17 to NEMA14. Need a new mount.
Sherpa Mini mount is done
still need to recalibrate my coordinates
At least you don't need to worry about missing the build plate ๐
What if I put a zip tie anchor in?
I need a way to secure the motor
I was thinking that but not elegant
but I know I might end up with the zip tie, engineer's best friend after duct tape
Where else could it mount? The two screw holes are in use. The other option is make the extruder sturdier.
you only need 2xM2.5 holes for the switch on top of the front case, and 1xM3 hole for the trigger screw on the lever
not going to drill it
Drill and tap it!
maybe itโs possible to make a jig to find where to prime
you can print a sherpa and keep the sla as is ๐
You know, for a near-stock Ender 5 Pro with a BMG on a sub-par direct drive mount, this print is pretty good.
The still-hypothetical sturdy one?
Or the SLA printed sturdy one?
the SLA
There's a fix you can use
You can drill it ๐คฃ
I know I'll drill the motor
Wait, drop the motor?
Drill the motor?
yes
I'm not qualified enough to know the answer, but is that a risky idea?
yes I'm just joking
OH DEAR GOD THANK YOU
lol
Okay, so I can bridge those support sections and add a zip tie anchor?
Between the two pillars, basically
Then you can loop a zip tie around that
not bad
sherpa is still technically a nema 17, not a 14
uses 2 of the 4 nema 17 mounting points
compatible with both, then?
no, because you need that pressed on tiny gear
but this is why 36 and 42 can boards fit either
interesting
I think the enclosure heat issue is the extrusions on the inside soaking up heat.
Almost 46C
With what and where are you measuring chamber heat? I have a thermistor on my SB pcb and it shows that I get 50c-60c in my just top only cardboard enclosure?
It's a hanging thermistor in the back of the chamber. About 50mm below bed level.
The conclusion I'm getting is that the aluminum is acting as a heat sink. Until it's soaked up plenty of heat, I'll have issues. Next step will be cladding the exposed extrusions to dampen the effect.
This sherpa mini is f'ing tiny.
On the weekend Iโll stuff around with mine, I have a few extra thermistors.
They come in micro too
Yeah. I think I'm going to print that next, actually. I have two printers to move to NEMA14 that are currently on BMGs.
The EBB42 does not have an existing mount for the Sherpa Mini. So. Sigh.
Don't even have something to start from for the shroud.
Blech.
the ebb36 one works diagonally IIRC
It's not a rush to get this on, but still.
My 36 blew up. I only have 42s now
didn't realize the CAN mounts TC made were all for the 36 boards
you didnt get it
check if two diagonal holes of the 42 works on the 36 mount
I sort of remember turtle saying they worked
Not sure that's gonna work with the CAN wiring. Connector location will be weird, but i"ll check.
Not hard to model those up from scratch
They just use nema 17 bolt patterns
And you can download the models of the boards from github
Yeah, I've got everything in CAD in front of me, I'm just grumbling because I didn't think to check that the EBB42 actually had a mount.
Unexpected work is not my favorite, heh.
Lesson learned
I am using a ebb42 on turtle mount
Turned?
need to make a selfie to take a picture
trying to get out of the way
the thr36 mount lifts the board by ~5mm off the mount holes, so it also allows the ebb42 to completely stay within the mount boundaries
itโs not true, maybe it goes off the boundaries for a couple mm at the bottom
downside, there is no way to get the shroud like this, as the minifit gets in the way, and the cable covers a mounting hole, and I donโt want to stress it too much
Also a good point. I really do want a fan on there. Keeps it very cool.
donโt look at how I wired it, I was thinking it was temporary until I fixed my other board.. but now thatโs there and working I regret not having spent some time in removing jst and crimp some dupont where they should be dupont
Oh, eh. No judgement here.
I was looking at Oscar's enclosure a few minutes ago. I took a picture with some very clear, simple notes:
- Hot air rises
- Hot air collides with cool aluminum
- Cool aluminum transfers heat throughout the frame and never gets hot
I don't need to fix all the heat loss, just the worst of it
It's 500mm between the insulation panels. Printing a test cover now.
Added some ribs to the front for rigidity
One more with holes for inserts to anchor the cable chain
Still need to figure out what to do about the other side, since there are lights and a camera there
Sherpa Mini mount. It's super lightweight, uses one less screw hole than before (you don't need 7 screws for an extruder).
Also has a zip tie anchor for the stepper, if necessary
loving it
Could add the rear upright to a Turbiter or you need that space for pcb?
That's an interesting read. But I actually do need that space, either for the PCB or a fan to cool it.
Looking into using a blower on the PCB
Oscar is partly clad in ASA to cover the aluminum in the back. Printing the stuff for the front now.
It's heating up almost decently.
Up to 40C
EBB is staying not bad, too
Temperature is still edging up. This is a very good sign.
Printing more Oscar cladding on Ocar now
"You will print your own upgrades!"
Yes. Yes it will!
It's at 43 now, was under 42 when I started this print
Up to 46
EBB keeps about 9C above ambient. Nice.
not bad
I have to figure out something new when I switch over to the Sherpa Mini, but that can wait until I figure it out
I cannot complain about how it's printing now. Just lovely.
Now that it's getting hot, I can get back to what I was doing last week, which was printing and testing those struts.
More cladding is done printing. Up to 48.5C
Last of the cladding I've planned on is in. It heats up pretty quickly now.
Yeah, it looks like I'll get to see the exhaust fan kick in
coolness
yeah, it's over 42C when I started the print. Usually gains quite a bit from there.
Folks, I think I've pretty much set out to accomplish what I meant to accomplish with Oscar.
First strut came off Oscar beautifully. No pics. Going back to bed.
Second strut, not so great. Z1 stepper is a little finicky. I think it's a loose connection.
Oh, and I started printing the parts I'll need to switch to 4mm dowels as a test
You're rocking along. ๐๐๐๐
I felt pretty stalled out for a bit, so this is a nice change
I hear ya. I'm hoping to get a chance to move forward this weekend.
I love this double-paned door on Oscar. It's made of extrusions with a 3mm panel in the middle and another 3mm panel on the outside. The outside one is important because of all the metal in the door releasing heat.
and pics?
Let me see if I can find one. It's printing right now, so I can't open it up to take pics all around
Gaskets, light switch, and latch mechanism.
a big box
Very
12mm birch on the top, bottom, and back. 6mm on front and sides.
The side panels technically come off, but it's a PITA
AHA! The inside.
how big are the lights
They've been changed out. These are old pics. The switch-triggered lights are a daylight on a stick, so 18 LEDs. The controlled lights are daylight on a matchstick, 12 LEDs.
Yellow ASA came with moisture. It's in the dryer now. ๐ฆ
The bearing stacks seem good so far. Dowels required a ton of standing, but that's nbd.
Biggest thing is going to be waiting for this ASA to dry out...
60+ grams each, over 150mm wide. No warp. HAHAHA
me jelly
Printing the second set of struts
Dry yellow ASA in three hours
OT: Also killing the heck out of the OmniBox docs today
last brace printing and then i can test tomorrow
Big Bird
- Finished with the 4mm dowel/F624 bearing proof of concept design.
- Exported all the STLs and finishing printing the right side for testing.
Oscar
- Printed all the struts
- About to start accel testing
With oscar, I'm only going to do Y axis testing, since the struts will be mounted that way.
Zero difference with strut style one. I took of the perpendicularly machined brackets and am testing again.
F624 fit tests went perfectly
Tests so far:
Best: metal
2nd best: new struts
Okay: old struts
IOW, use brackets if you've got 'em
what are the metal ones you're using
and what settings did you use on the printed ones
(I think it would make a nice article)
Agreed
The metal ones are the perpendicularly machined ones, like the Ender 5 comes with but made by Misumi. The kind I sent you.
The printed ones were all printed with ABS, 4mm walls, 20% cubic infill, 0.2mm layers.
Base
Struts 1 (old) / Struts 2 (new)
Strut 1 with bracket / Strut 2 with bracket
That rattling at the end is silly and annoying. I think it's something loose on the frame.
No idea why strut2 with bracket looks terrible
base is with bracket?
correct