i have all the movement and printer head attached. confirmed that all motors are going correct direction. got my probe working, homed the printer succesfully. after this i was bumping my Y direction then all the sudden the led on my printer head turned on and a poof of smoke came of the board. now klipper is not connecting to the board after an emergency stop.
#having problems with first build
182 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Then the board might have died
although I'm not sure what build you've done
Do you have some more info?
i couldnt do the hydra at the same time so im having to use a bltouch i had laying around.
i have an extra octopus pro board laying around as well
Which mainboard? And toolhead board /PCB on the SB?
the board that may be dead is a octopus v1.1
How did you connect it to the Pi? USB or Serial?
usb
If all peripherals are disconnected from the mainboard, do you see any LEDs lit on the board?
Ok. What error do you see on the web UI?
right now it just says printer is not ready and its attempting to connect
Ok, while we wait for it to connect, can you open an ssh session to the pi and in that type the following commands one after the other, post the output
lsusb
ls -la /dev/serial/by-id/
To explain the purpose - we want to understand if the board does communicate with the pi
says it cannot access
I think Gargamel was trying to ask if you had the USB jumper or, or if it was removed
Can you post a screenshot of the error you are seeing?
on putty or mailnsail?
I see. Try lsusb
This isn’t good news unfortunately
The pi doesn’t communicate with the board
You can try another usb cable before you call this one dead, if you want
Oh one more thing, please post output of the command dmesg
I understand that the Pi has been just rebooted?
yes
I see. I wanted to the kernel message logs but they are erased on reboot, so never mind
whoops sorry. i was getting an under voltage warning so i switched the power supply
Do you want to try another cable to the mainboard and USB port before declaring this mainboard dead?
i switched cables a couple times between the main board and pi already
i have another octopus pro laying around
so im cool with calling it dead.
I don't suggest you connect it instead of this one, because most probably there was a short circuit that caused this board to malfunction
Do you use a purchased wiring harness between the toolhead pcb and the octopus or did you make your own?
purchased it
Did you remove the USB jumper before applying 24v power to the octopus?
yes i powered the octopus down before changing cables
Can you post a photo of the board as it is now?
If possible, a photo from the top, with a bit more light..
this will not help with your magic smoke... But you need to move the extruder over one, and your stepper_z1 over 1 space as well
the third driver slot controls 2 outputs
motor 2_1 and 2_2
I can't see something that specifically looks problematic here, perhaps the problem is on the toolhead PCB.
What I suggest is that you disconnect all peripherals from this board, as one of these connections is shorted. The toolhead PCB shares many negative pins to one GND pins, and misconnection may have been the cause of the issue.
After you disconnect everything, disconnect and reconnect the 24v supply, there is a very slim chance that it will start communicating again. I don't want to diagnose this problem on your new octopus board...
Do you have a multimeter?
on a new setup, I try to slowly plug things in if its not to much of a pain
start with just the thermistors and endstops
verify the endstops work
then plug in the heaters, set hotend to 40c, make sure it heats up the right one and stops
then the bed to 35 or 40c
after that, xyz steppers, stepper buzz them
then z probe if you havent yet, with bltouch go through the checks to make sure its wired properly
turtle, The issue with the toolhead pcb is that it shares almost all GNDs. misconnection can be fatal to the boards 😦
then home it after all o fthat
that sounds painful...
I have seen some bits on how they share ground, seems a tad confusing
That's why it'll be crucial to check continuity/resistance and verify correct polarities
doesnt sound painful at all. i just got impatient.
Also could be coming from the bl-touch - we are aware that there are totally different connections, and confusingly they use different and even opposite wire colors
We've all been there.. Sometime mistakes can be costly but as long as you're safe that's what most important
Ok, good
So the issue came after emergency stop?
yes
I see. Some configurations cause all fans to spin up to 100% after emergency stop. Can you visually check polarities of fans at the toolhead pcb?
It may be the default klipper behavior, although I don't use this default setting - just a quick longshot..
oh i just noticed my hot end fan is not correct . let me resolder it correctly real quick
It could be one of the problems, though not the only one. It would't fry the whole mainboard
should i take out the steppers drivers to?
Yeah, you can
okay everything is unplugged. took out the 24v input and re seated it
only thing plugged in is 24v power and usbc
still wont connect
post output of lsusb from putty
Nope 😦
dead!
Unfortunately ..
all good
Let's see - I want to diagnose and ensure no shorts/misconnections, so ready your multimeter. Do you happen to have a printed sheet that came with the toolhead PCB or wiring harness with the description of wires?
not a printed but i might have it some where in my emails.
If you can post it here it'll be good
That's semi-helpful.. I've seen the tips of the wires have a tag, if you can take a photo of them all? my intention is to verify that the pins they used on the JST connector is actually going to the correct pin on the board.. mistakes happen
Oh and also I'd like to send a photo of the toolhead pcb with its current connections
Sorry but some of these don't show the pin placement clearly, can you place the connectors like you did for the wire flagged PROBE please
Excellent, give me a few minutes to confirm this is all good.
Ok.. Seems correct, what is SF, not listed in the pinout list? And where did you have AUX connected (if at all)
i had those 2 unplugged
OK. was PROBE connected?
no
seperate cables because i dont have a metal bed so i cant use the inductive till i do the hydra upgrade
OK. unrelated for now but related - Suggest you look into klicky probe once you get your machine up and running
im totally into it
Using your multimeter I would like you to measure resistance of the AGND-TH0 pins
Next, measure resistance between the thicker 24v wire to the black wire
post what you get roughly, doesn't have to be accurate to the ohm
For the main gnd (black) and 24v this is totally ok if you don't measure resistance - we don't expect it, otherwise it means it's an issue. as for the AGND-TH0, I'm expecting you measure ~100Kohm
yup Agrnd is coming back 0
AGND pin to TH0 on the same connector?
101.2
K ohm, correct?
yes
thats coming up with nothing
that's good
Both your hotend fan (4010) and part cooling fan (5015 blower) are 24v?
yes
ok. I would like you to test them against the main PSU, but that will require to either unpin the plug, or use a small wire - is this something you can do?
If you connect the black wire to the PSU, you can then connect each pin (PCF or HEF) to the PSU positive line
yup i can totes do that. let me get my wire out
just make sure that no other exposed wire contacts anything else
both fans came right on when tested
Good, this is good. However, we cannot know what the cause of the problem was earlier
A fan connected backwards cannot burn a mainboard... possibly just the mosfet..
that board i used first was a used board so i could have been an issue the person had before me with the board.
the other board is brand new
that would be unfortunate but i enjoy it and the parts are replaceable and no one was hurt so its a win in my book
What a spirit 🙂 OK...
ill report back after i get it all plugged in and tested
Get klipper on it, have it connected to the Pi without peripherals first. Following that connect just the motors, taking note of turtle's comment, only then connect the toolhead pcb
make any connections with mainboard power turned off
got it!! thank you so much for all the help
You're welcome! I wish you best of luck and hope you get the machine up and running without additional issues!
I'll still be here for a little while, hoping you report back with good news
got it up and running. everything is working properly now after a fresh install and flash
with the new board
not yet ill get to that in the next couple days. i got a few more things i wanna fine tune, plus the rest of the electronics bay stuff shows up tomorrow. so now that i have it all tested i can cable manage and make it look all nice
im also now on the hunt for klicky probe stuff
Sounds good
Let me know if you need help with Klicky stuff, it can see a bit intimidating as there are so many parts you don't actually need
Before installing Tap I used klicky NG and was very satisfied
would you say tap is better than klicky?
That's a tough one...
I used Klicky with a separate Z-endstop and the auto-z script, it was working flawlessly. Tap is also OK, but I'm struggling to achieve the same accelerations on the input shaper test as I had before that. I don't know if it's Tap's fault or not - I changed other things as well at the time of installation.
got it. ill probably just go with klicky
I can tell you this, if you had tap at hand - go ahead and install it. If you don't - Klicky probe is going to provide you with an excellent service.
What I do recommend you to look into is replacing the toolhead PCB with a CAN bus toolhead board, at some point. It'll reduce toolhead wiring to just 4 wires.
ohhhh that would be real nice and clean
With an SB there are some options - EBB36 from bigtreetech, SHT36 from Mellow - both are the same form factor and mount to the back of the extruder motor, and the SB2040 from Mellow, mounted in the same way as the HartK PCB. I have them all, but I'm using the EBB36.
I may use the SB2040 on another build I'm planning but I'm reading it overheats in that tiny compartment, so some people suggest adding a tiny 3007 fan. The EBB doesn't have such problem even in heated enclosure (65c or so)
And since you're using an Octopus board which supports CAN natively you won't need extra adapter boards