#having problems with first build

182 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

sour sage
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i have all the movement and printer head attached. confirmed that all motors are going correct direction. got my probe working, homed the printer succesfully. after this i was bumping my Y direction then all the sudden the led on my printer head turned on and a poof of smoke came of the board. now klipper is not connecting to the board after an emergency stop.

vale orbit
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although I'm not sure what build you've done

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Do you have some more info?

sour sage
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i kinda figured as much

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its a zero g with a stealthburner tool head

vale orbit
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maybe @fallen mirage knows

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Idk how the stealthburner is wired

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lets see

sour sage
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i couldnt do the hydra at the same time so im having to use a bltouch i had laying around.

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i have an extra octopus pro board laying around as well

fallen mirage
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Which mainboard? And toolhead board /PCB on the SB?

sour sage
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the board that may be dead is a octopus v1.1

fallen mirage
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How did you connect it to the Pi? USB or Serial?

sour sage
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usb

fallen mirage
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If all peripherals are disconnected from the mainboard, do you see any LEDs lit on the board?

sour sage
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its a hartk 2 piece Rv 2

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i see a red and a blue led

fallen mirage
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Ok. What error do you see on the web UI?

sour sage
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right now it just says printer is not ready and its attempting to connect

fallen mirage
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Ok, while we wait for it to connect, can you open an ssh session to the pi and in that type the following commands one after the other, post the output

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lsusb

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ls -la /dev/serial/by-id/

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To explain the purpose - we want to understand if the board does communicate with the pi

sour sage
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says it cannot access

random moon
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I think Gargamel was trying to ask if you had the USB jumper or, or if it was removed

fallen mirage
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Can you post a screenshot of the error you are seeing?

sour sage
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on putty or mailnsail?

fallen mirage
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Where did you see the error about being unable to access?

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Putty?

sour sage
fallen mirage
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I see. Try lsusb

sour sage
fallen mirage
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Just lsusb

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No other parameters

sour sage
fallen mirage
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This isn’t good news unfortunately

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The pi doesn’t communicate with the board

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You can try another usb cable before you call this one dead, if you want

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Oh one more thing, please post output of the command dmesg

sour sage
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one sec ill get that shortly

fallen mirage
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I understand that the Pi has been just rebooted?

sour sage
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yes

fallen mirage
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I see. I wanted to the kernel message logs but they are erased on reboot, so never mind

sour sage
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whoops sorry. i was getting an under voltage warning so i switched the power supply

fallen mirage
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Do you want to try another cable to the mainboard and USB port before declaring this mainboard dead?

sour sage
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i switched cables a couple times between the main board and pi already

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i have another octopus pro laying around

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so im cool with calling it dead.

fallen mirage
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I don't suggest you connect it instead of this one, because most probably there was a short circuit that caused this board to malfunction

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Do you use a purchased wiring harness between the toolhead pcb and the octopus or did you make your own?

sour sage
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purchased it

random moon
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Did you remove the USB jumper before applying 24v power to the octopus?

sour sage
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yes i powered the octopus down before changing cables

random moon
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I mean this jumper, was it removed?

fallen mirage
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Can you post a photo of the board as it is now?

sour sage
fallen mirage
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If possible, a photo from the top, with a bit more light..

sour sage
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Im mounting all the stuff after the last parts show up Saturday.

random moon
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this will not help with your magic smoke... But you need to move the extruder over one, and your stepper_z1 over 1 space as well

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the third driver slot controls 2 outputs

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motor 2_1 and 2_2

sour sage
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okay

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i see that now in the pinout. thanks for pointing that out

fallen mirage
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I can't see something that specifically looks problematic here, perhaps the problem is on the toolhead PCB.
What I suggest is that you disconnect all peripherals from this board, as one of these connections is shorted. The toolhead PCB shares many negative pins to one GND pins, and misconnection may have been the cause of the issue.
After you disconnect everything, disconnect and reconnect the 24v supply, there is a very slim chance that it will start communicating again. I don't want to diagnose this problem on your new octopus board...

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Do you have a multimeter?

sour sage
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thats totally fair.

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yes i do

random moon
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on a new setup, I try to slowly plug things in if its not to much of a pain

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start with just the thermistors and endstops

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verify the endstops work

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then plug in the heaters, set hotend to 40c, make sure it heats up the right one and stops

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then the bed to 35 or 40c

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after that, xyz steppers, stepper buzz them

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then z probe if you havent yet, with bltouch go through the checks to make sure its wired properly

fallen mirage
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turtle, The issue with the toolhead pcb is that it shares almost all GNDs. misconnection can be fatal to the boards 😦

random moon
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then home it after all o fthat

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that sounds painful...

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I have seen some bits on how they share ground, seems a tad confusing

fallen mirage
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That's why it'll be crucial to check continuity/resistance and verify correct polarities

sour sage
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doesnt sound painful at all. i just got impatient.

fallen mirage
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Also could be coming from the bl-touch - we are aware that there are totally different connections, and confusingly they use different and even opposite wire colors

fallen mirage
sour sage
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i didnt use the pcb breakout for the bltouch.

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i had that confirmed working and tested

fallen mirage
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Ok, good

sour sage
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had the heaters checked

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all endstops checked

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motor direction checked

fallen mirage
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So the issue came after emergency stop?

sour sage
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yes

fallen mirage
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I see. Some configurations cause all fans to spin up to 100% after emergency stop. Can you visually check polarities of fans at the toolhead pcb?

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It may be the default klipper behavior, although I don't use this default setting - just a quick longshot..

sour sage
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oh i just noticed my hot end fan is not correct . let me resolder it correctly real quick

fallen mirage
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It could be one of the problems, though not the only one. It would't fry the whole mainboard

sour sage
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should i take out the steppers drivers to?

fallen mirage
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Yeah, you can

sour sage
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okay everything is unplugged. took out the 24v input and re seated it

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only thing plugged in is 24v power and usbc

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still wont connect

fallen mirage
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post output of lsusb from putty

sour sage
fallen mirage
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Nope 😦

sour sage
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dead!

fallen mirage
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Unfortunately ..

sour sage
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all good

fallen mirage
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Let's see - I want to diagnose and ensure no shorts/misconnections, so ready your multimeter. Do you happen to have a printed sheet that came with the toolhead PCB or wiring harness with the description of wires?

sour sage
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not a printed but i might have it some where in my emails.

fallen mirage
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If you can post it here it'll be good

sour sage
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That’s all it had. Came from funssor

fallen mirage
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That's semi-helpful.. I've seen the tips of the wires have a tag, if you can take a photo of them all? my intention is to verify that the pins they used on the JST connector is actually going to the correct pin on the board.. mistakes happen

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Oh and also I'd like to send a photo of the toolhead pcb with its current connections

sour sage
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yes every end has a label fortunately

fallen mirage
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Sorry but some of these don't show the pin placement clearly, can you place the connectors like you did for the wire flagged PROBE please

sour sage
fallen mirage
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Excellent, give me a few minutes to confirm this is all good.

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Ok.. Seems correct, what is SF, not listed in the pinout list? And where did you have AUX connected (if at all)

sour sage
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i had those 2 unplugged

fallen mirage
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OK. was PROBE connected?

sour sage
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no

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seperate cables because i dont have a metal bed so i cant use the inductive till i do the hydra upgrade

fallen mirage
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OK. unrelated for now but related - Suggest you look into klicky probe once you get your machine up and running

sour sage
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im totally into it

fallen mirage
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Using your multimeter I would like you to measure resistance of the AGND-TH0 pins

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Next, measure resistance between the thicker 24v wire to the black wire

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post what you get roughly, doesn't have to be accurate to the ohm

sour sage
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i cant seem to get it to register.

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well i got Agnd and it came back as 0 ohms

fallen mirage
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For the main gnd (black) and 24v this is totally ok if you don't measure resistance - we don't expect it, otherwise it means it's an issue. as for the AGND-TH0, I'm expecting you measure ~100Kohm

sour sage
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yup Agrnd is coming back 0

fallen mirage
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AGND pin to TH0 on the same connector?

sour sage
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101.2

fallen mirage
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K ohm, correct?

sour sage
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yes

fallen mirage
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cool

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Now AGND and main ground (black)

sour sage
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thats coming up with nothing

fallen mirage
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that's good

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Both your hotend fan (4010) and part cooling fan (5015 blower) are 24v?

sour sage
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yes

fallen mirage
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ok. I would like you to test them against the main PSU, but that will require to either unpin the plug, or use a small wire - is this something you can do?
If you connect the black wire to the PSU, you can then connect each pin (PCF or HEF) to the PSU positive line

sour sage
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yup i can totes do that. let me get my wire out

fallen mirage
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just make sure that no other exposed wire contacts anything else

sour sage
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both fans came right on when tested

fallen mirage
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Good, this is good. However, we cannot know what the cause of the problem was earlier

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A fan connected backwards cannot burn a mainboard... possibly just the mosfet..

sour sage
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that board i used first was a used board so i could have been an issue the person had before me with the board.

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the other board is brand new

fallen mirage
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I see

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I just hate if you retry and it happens again for some reason

sour sage
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that would be unfortunate but i enjoy it and the parts are replaceable and no one was hurt so its a win in my book

fallen mirage
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What a spirit 🙂 OK...

sour sage
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ill report back after i get it all plugged in and tested

fallen mirage
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Get klipper on it, have it connected to the Pi without peripherals first. Following that connect just the motors, taking note of turtle's comment, only then connect the toolhead pcb

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make any connections with mainboard power turned off

sour sage
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got it!! thank you so much for all the help

fallen mirage
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You're welcome! I wish you best of luck and hope you get the machine up and running without additional issues!

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I'll still be here for a little while, hoping you report back with good news

sour sage
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got it up and running. everything is working properly now after a fresh install and flash

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with the new board

fallen mirage
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Hey, that's great news! 🙂

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Any first prints?

sour sage
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not yet ill get to that in the next couple days. i got a few more things i wanna fine tune, plus the rest of the electronics bay stuff shows up tomorrow. so now that i have it all tested i can cable manage and make it look all nice

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im also now on the hunt for klicky probe stuff

fallen mirage
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Sounds good

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Let me know if you need help with Klicky stuff, it can see a bit intimidating as there are so many parts you don't actually need

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Before installing Tap I used klicky NG and was very satisfied

sour sage
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would you say tap is better than klicky?

fallen mirage
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That's a tough one...

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I used Klicky with a separate Z-endstop and the auto-z script, it was working flawlessly. Tap is also OK, but I'm struggling to achieve the same accelerations on the input shaper test as I had before that. I don't know if it's Tap's fault or not - I changed other things as well at the time of installation.

sour sage
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got it. ill probably just go with klicky

fallen mirage
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I can tell you this, if you had tap at hand - go ahead and install it. If you don't - Klicky probe is going to provide you with an excellent service.

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What I do recommend you to look into is replacing the toolhead PCB with a CAN bus toolhead board, at some point. It'll reduce toolhead wiring to just 4 wires.

sour sage
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ohhhh that would be real nice and clean

fallen mirage
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With an SB there are some options - EBB36 from bigtreetech, SHT36 from Mellow - both are the same form factor and mount to the back of the extruder motor, and the SB2040 from Mellow, mounted in the same way as the HartK PCB. I have them all, but I'm using the EBB36.
I may use the SB2040 on another build I'm planning but I'm reading it overheats in that tiny compartment, so some people suggest adding a tiny 3007 fan. The EBB doesn't have such problem even in heated enclosure (65c or so)

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And since you're using an Octopus board which supports CAN natively you won't need extra adapter boards