#Ender 5 Plus - Mercury 1 (Classic) with Stealth Burner and New Enclosure Project
1 messages · Page 13 of 1
nice
How’s the VORON?
Printing yet?
oof
Ohhh how’s it broken
not even close ...the left gantry bolts not lining up
Burgo is the man to ask about that
not ripping it apart
about what?
Voron gantry bolts
oh
well. I don't have cnc
and don't want reg cnc parst
I'd get lightweigt stuff if were to
also prob would go AWD
however I'd just get a better machine then V2.4 by that part lo
Oh. Yeah Mike had the cnc parts
chaotic labs 1s
I love my cnc tap
yea my 4 magnets do the same result
Ill probally will leave it in the attic
Mike you should print your gantry parts and see if it lines up with them and you will know if it a fault with the cnc parts
Klicky?
There’s a new version of tap?
Ooh
its ok Ill just leave it alone
Send me a link
Weekend
Why do u work 60 hours a week?
work
yes but what u do?
money
yes. but like u that much in need for the extra?
ur mental health is big important
its all good
So you should be able to afford a bamboo lab x1 carbon
part of the job
yes but like u seem very much starved of free time
Lol. It's funny
im stuck on can
I think so
It doesn’t recognize can0
fly@flygemini:~$ python3 ~/CanBoot/scripts/flash_can.py -i can0 -q
ERROR:root:Can Flash Error
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/home/fly/CanBoot/scripts/flash_can.py", line 493, in run_query
self.cansock.bind((intf,))
OSError: [Errno 19] No such device
During handling of the above exception, another exception occurred:
Traceback (most recent call last):
File "/home/fly/CanBoot/scripts/flash_can.py", line 621, in main
loop.run_until_complete(sock.run_query(intf))
File "/usr/lib/python3.9/asyncio/base_events.py", line 642, in run_until_complete
return future.result()
File "/home/fly/CanBoot/scripts/flash_can.py", line 495, in run_query
raise FlashCanError("Unable to bind socket to can0")
FlashCanError: Unable to bind socket to can0
i set bitrate to 1000000 per ebb36 instructions
not sure if that is my problem
Jumper on the board(not sure if that is what it is)
Jumper on ebb36
I also tried it without the jumper on the Gemini side
Not connected to the Gemini I get 120
awesome the ebb has diag pins
with out the jumper on the gemini i get 120 ohms
with jumper i get 60
awesome
so i am at 60 ohms
I think 60 is target both sides idk
yeah its good on that part
that had me worried, powering back up
Last login: Tue May 2 01:37:02 2023 from 192.168.1.195
fly@flygemini:~$ sudo ip link set can0 up type can bitrate 1000000
[sudo] password for fly:
Cannot find device "can0"
fly@flygemini:~$
shit no dice
fly@flygemini:~$ ip -d -s link show can0
Device "can0" does not exist.
sudo apt-get install can-utils
installed this
not sure if it will do anything
should i tune the ebb36 to 500000 instead?
i could just drop a u2c in as well
oh damn
allow-hotplug can0
iface can0 can static
bitrate 1000000
up ip link set can0 txqueuelen 1024
i never did this
the file was there but set to a static 500000
looks like i needed to setup usb to can on my mcu 1st
fly@flygemini:~$ ~/klippy-env/bin/python ~/klipper/scripts/canbus_query.py can0
Found canbus_uuid=14705c1991ab, Application: Klipper
Found canbus_uuid=d3bf478f4fb5, Application: CanBoot
Total 2 uuids found
fly@flygemini:~$
now we are talking
fly@flygemini:~/klipper$ python3 ~/CanBoot/scripts/flash_can.py -i can0 -q
Resetting all bootloader node IDs...
Checking for canboot nodes...
Detected UUID: d3bf478f4fb5, Application: CanBoot
Query Complete
fly@flygemini:~/klipper$ python3 ~/CanBoot/scripts/flash_can.py -i can0 -u d3bf478f4fb5 -f ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin
Sending bootloader jump command...
Resetting all bootloader node IDs...
Checking for canboot nodes...
Detected UUID: d3bf478f4fb5, Application: CanBoot
Attempting to connect to bootloader
CanBoot Connected
Protocol Version: 1.0.0
Block Size: 64 bytes
Application Start: 0x8002000
MCU type: stm32g0b1xx
Verifying canbus connection
Flashing '/home/fly/klipper/out/klipper.bin'...
[##################################################]
Write complete: 13 pages
Verifying (block count = 414)...
[##################################################]
Verification Complete: SHA = 437CA79B04CAEBAA3B3332C9C5BA3969FAF2FCBE
CAN Flash Success
fly@flygemini:~/klipper$
its alive!
just need to update my configs and i am good to go
its up and running but the pt1000 is still acting up
Just some clean up needed
Sounds like it's rubbing the infill
Should I raise the nozzle ?
Only does itnin certain spots
What machine is this?
Ender 5 pro
Ah ok
frame maybe
Still on v wheels?
Rails
Are the rails square?
Yesn
And is your x gantry square
Yes
Ok cr
nothing is highlighted
What’s your bed mesh look like?
lol
well tells me that 1 spot prob may have filament under bed
Yeah you may have random high points
Have you tried printing on other parts of the bed?
usually print i nthe middle
0.89
Wow that seems way to low of a rotation distance
ill double check it
I normally expect 17-25
vzhextruodrt is 4. something
Whats the gear ratio on that?
1:6.24 or 1:5
mine is 3.1 gears 407 steps
Is that legit?
@naive swan noticed the bottom hole doesn’t line up with stepper mount.
@naive swan you don’t need the jumper on the ebb36
Yep just noticed it on the weekend
The Gemini board won’t communicate on can without it
Any of you using a filament sensor with klipper?
oh, thats wierd, didnt think it would be different, i found alot of the instructions online are abit contradictory, atleast you got it working
it may be a board specific thing
ERCF uses the encoder with the happy hare project to incorporate fillament runout detection, which allows for endless spool
i agree
my ucan with ebb36 didnt need it
but i wonder if that is what is causing my disconnects
could be add
its supposed to be terminated on both ends
Sb2040 only needed termination on the sb2040
a stable canbus should have both sides terminated
some stuff like octopus pro has only 1 side terminated
maybe i should do that
cause other is built in
both sides of mine arent
its something to just do
it doesn'
doesn't cause issues
FYSETC UCAN Board Based on STM32F072 USB to CAN Adapter Support with CAnable / CandleLight / Klipper firmware Features: - Based on STM32F072 - Type-C USB socket - Supports CAN2.0A and B, baud rates up to 1M - Compatible with CANable - Support with CAnable / CandleLight / Klipper firmware - 3-pin screw terminal: C
ok its set on by defualt
just need to do it on the tool head
yes.
this is what octopus pro does too
each side is supposed to be terminated with can
Why has the CAN standard selected 120 Ohm resistors? The answer is that most automotive cables are single wire. If you take the wires typically used in a car and twist them into a pair, you will get an impedance of 120 Ohm.
just so they are balanced
I don't even care enoufgh to learn how canbus works lol
i have a general idea at this point
when i build a gundam... i will need to up the ante
but gundams are banned
I have octopus pro
has it terminated internally
however it’s not something that should prevent the system to work, I used a system with the terminating resistor only on the toolhead. I went on for a month and it worked the same as when I added the 120ohm termination resistor on the first can device (to have the 60ohm total)
I guess it’s more important in cars, where the can network it much more complex than in our printers
its still important.
U should have them.
it's literally included with can products
yes, that’t why I soldered in a resistor.. just to be safe. you need only 2 though. so if you add other cans in the middles, you should remove the jumpers
what board?
a constellation of skr minis 😂
yes but what are u using to connect Canbus?
mcp2551 transceivers
the v3 can do usb to can, so in its mcp I added a resistor between l/h (there are also nicer transceiver with the resistor and the jumper built in)
Yea I think got 1 with them built in
12V fan w/tach spins at 9k rpm (exceeds SB recommended fan speeds) and with the tach you can use the tach monitor config to save your hot end incase of a critical failure
just get XOL2
then use a 25mm fan
or dragonburner
But SB has what people like. 🌈 leds and a sleek hipster look
both have leds
Hey!
eat shat
I cant tell what your pic is
burgerking foot lettuce
Oh now i can make it out
I liked your old one before
Foot lettuce hard to see
Maybe one foot?
i just spent an hour diagnosing my stepper drivers....
i forgot they have their own power rail on this board
yea me working on the bed leveling
shit that didnt solve it
u using springs?
yes
ok
why I kept the shit bed
What exactly is happening?
How so
That looks odd. So you have a mic6 bed. Magnet on top?
yes
What probe?
cr-touch
Whats your start macro? And bed surface
Well my little mid project- project is done
just need to make a cat6 outlet and and i can close up the back
@naive swan very cool. Nice printer. My printer is junk
Every printer is junk, just depends on how much time and money you want to throw at it
Back in its natural habitat
its supposed to be the final can board in the link that requires the jumper
I put jumper in u2c and sb2240 without issue.
interesting mine has only on U2C
No. Each end
Beautiful
Nothing wrong with the cute little V0
@vocal terrace you are very negative, unfortunately enough for me not to need that drama in my life. I dont want to block you but🤷♂️
I was joking here ):
I actually think looks good thought said above oof
Sry.
not just to me, i could care less but to others as well
Real gates pog
sigh
i think they are 1.5amp
they are gates or really good knock offs
they came with the kit
very nice, mine have been top notch
Woah woah woah it's a groove notch (;
Looking foward to getting them on.
I’m running the first print with new motors and sb2240 and I must say I’m really happy with it so far, still have some tuning to do tho
They still sound kinda fucky
Is that 100mm/s?
Do higher with those motors fyi
What's ur volumetric flow rnM
Why
Not much
I had a problem with the initial tuning of sensorless homing and the motors drawing to much current
The stealchop was overloading the driver and throwing up errors
What's. Don't put stealthchip on
That’s why they are load because it’s not on
Do you have these motors?
No I have the first Rev of them 2504
Not 2804
Stealthchop will never titan on
what is you printer config for them?
This is true. What i read on voron community for higher than 100mms keep it off.
I just got my setup up and running but havent done test print yet. Maybe by the weekend. Printing rest of top hat. Are you using top hat xl?
Oh cool, pleased you are nearly there. Yeah I have vengeful’s top hat XL, I wanted extra space because of umbilical
Tbh, I will rarely go over 100mms I’m hoping to make as quiet as possible for night printing
In general don't put it on
I wish there was a quiet mode button on the mainsail that would change parameters for night time
What current u got em at?
1.2
That's low
I run mine 1.4 stock
U got em with fans?
Mine are upto 2.5A not 2.8A
No fans
Wait they are fuckung loud then
I seen the temps of these motors are up to 180c
I meant fans on drivers..
Yeah I have fans on drivers
Oh not that bad then
Those motors are good af
I'd run just the shit metal heatsinks ngl
Those good enough
Your running those with the high voltage drivers if i remember right?
Yeah
Well technically no
They are 48v
Hight voltage is classed as >50
I havent done any testing so take it with a grain of salt but o would just use the 2209’s if your not planning on using them for speed. Anyone here run those steppers on 2209’s i could be wrong.
Im under the impression that the drivers are what generate the r2d2 beeps
Yeah your right tbh, I could do go back to my 2209’s but they weren’t any quieter, I thought
I wonder why some drivers are considered quiet. I dont hear any of that noise on vez3ds vzbot.
Whenever hes doing his speed runs
Bruh ofc their loud
Honestly u don't need those motors then lol
I set mine at .7 and It was skipping steps
Yr stuff is too loud lol
Higher power these motors like
Yes that's way too low
He has noise cancelling software
Yeah thats what i thought. He mentioned running higher voltage but not amps
He uses good 5160s the mellow extrrnals
He still runs those things high amps
2.8x .707 he prob does
@naive swan how loud is your type z
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https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLx9UDQ
R2d2 yelling loud lol
I kinda like it though
😂
Makes me think of an old sci fi movie
Do u have these?
They are the good ones
No have the btt pro ones
Do you dream of Star Wars every night lol
Btt ones are bad
But honestly these are cheaper may get a set
😆
Kids and i have been binging mando
Also they went on sale last month for 25cad
Instead of 31
Should have gotten some
I heard it’s good
You buy them and send to me plz 😉
14 fats
No u have 1s
But straight up u don't need 48V
Not mellow
48v should provide higher quality not just speed
Not really
It's just higher power to ur drivers.
Closed loops are how u get higher quality
But then u get nema23 servos.
Or u use 23s cause they strong enough
Hmm
What’s this?
A expensive ass light showing off my roborock fan
For a vacuum cleaner
Or my cpap fan.
Kekw
Oh nice, that’s guna do some blowing
I still dont get what generates the noise. Ive seen other people driving the steppers jelly has without that noise on 2208/9’s
That one seems to have fans being the loudest issue
5160s is whqt
They are loud
5160s just be lpud
Could just be my panel’s resonating
Wait no max power
Doesn't it always sound that loud?
Steppers, yeah they are max power but the old steppers were loud as well
“Homing x! X homed” 😂
U aren't sensorless homing em right?
Yeh
im not
@dawn vapor why ask then how bad?
Good
They annoying I've heard
Are u beacon jelly?
@naive swan u didn't comment on my fan ):
I mean I am using sensorless
I'm not a fan of that
Oh.
i loved it....
That'll adds some noise pretty sure
Awwww
See lettuce 🥬, he is your biggest fan
No that's ur mom.
and sensorless is ok if you dont have things you need to hit consistently like mech switch, brush, klicky
Bitch
True
But klicky it's fine with
If u tune right its chill
I'm prob gonna just do mechanical ngl
For both machines
if its off by a mm you are screwed on klicky
I might go back
No 0.5 can do it too
true
My shit switches couldn't do klicky with bad frame
it was a pain in the ass until i went beacon
L
now i may go back to sensorless
x endstop always faults so i had to do a workaround lol
Tap tap
Why does it fault?
Cnc is great
I disagreee
How much costs when 4 mags do the same adxl
That much weight should have an effect.
But don't
Tap is just kinda a flawed idea. Klicky good enough
Cnc tap will last longer
[gcode_macro PRINT_START]
gcode:
# Parameters
{% set BED = params.BED|int %} ; Get bed temp from gcode
{% set HOTEND = params.HOTEND|int %} ; Get nozzle temp from gcode
G28 # Home if needed
G1 Z50.0 F600 ;move the platform down 50mm
M106 S255
M190 S{BED} ; wait for bed temp
G28 # Home if needed
G90 # Use absolute coordinates
SET_GCODE_OFFSET Z=0.0 # Reset the G-Code Z offset from previous value
BED_MESH_CLEAR # Clear the current bed mesh
Z_TILT_ADJUST
G91
G1 y100 F7800
G1 x-100 F7800
G90
G28 # Rehome so absolute coordinates do ok
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
M117 Temp set to {HOTEND}
M109 S{HOTEND} ; wait for hotend temp
M106 S0
G92 E0 ; set extruder to 0
M117 Purging... ; message to the
No less
It's literally mechanicap
Cnc tap won't
It will die easier
It uses physical to optical
notice what i do after the z tilt?
Sexy I need this
U fix the weird turtle tilt?
what?
The 4 probe point thing
oh lol no
It's less on pei but like.
The switch is fricken weird
i move the toolhead away from the front right corner because the x endstop doesnt work in that area
probably a cable break
and this is how you automate the bullshit workarounds to get things to work
right..."patching"
😃
Isn't x on can?
Bruh do u run extra cables for that?
yes it was already there before can
It’s on his gantry
I'd splice it
Ohhhh
Gantry okf
Oof
Just run the stealthburner stuff with it integrated
im going to run x and y back to the can
Don't do y
It will catch on stuff
When moce
Move
So sensorless
Everything in vengeful cable chain
Think about how many spaces you have on the board for probes
In the future you may need tool head sensor for tradrack
Yea.
Gay
That wrong?
i would still have 2 free spaces
Also tradrack may have stuff for that afterwards
Erm, no..
Fairs
Exactly stfu or kiss me
this is why no one watches Naruto
Is it true in America, someone was organising loads of people to Naruto run into Area 51?
Yes.
Hahaha
They didn't enter
It was for the speed
Tuwy could dodge bullets that way
Ik cause Americans too fucking loud
Even for canada
i think that was a thing during covid, since people had too much freetime on their hands
They would just get shot lol
Prior
Yeah covid sucked ass
i think the logic was if it was too many people then they wouldnt do it
Literally people get killed for just knocking on someone's door in the us
It was a troll
like 12 people they are getting shot, but 500...they wouldnt dare
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I want to believe.
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Second Channel: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhQL58CYyRQ
Voice of Alien:
The talented, and available for comm...
Very real
Ahh, shit, but you would need to find a lot of people that didn’t care if they would be killed
Scary
well after 1000 people, you were good to go
too many people to justify it
like any other riot
It was a troll thing
Interesting
yes i get that but think about it
@deep vine u know people dying in the states for tryna go into the wrong car or knocking on a door?
look at the capitol riots?
Naruto is about freedom.
So stupid
that was ok, but storming area 51 is bad?
We can’t comprehend how governments run everything
i still remember people on that day, calling me and asking if they should still be working....lol
That’s crazy
i mean they had a point
What was the point
it was a full on coup d'état
Pardon your French
i was just surprised i didnt ask myself the same question
What does it mean
the people doing the coup d'état(had no leg to stand on) but i think most people were like "are they serious right now?"
Corruption
Yeah
What day the insurrection?
yes that day
Fucking stupid people
Huh
Trump lost.
Yeah. Trump and alot of Republicans tried to Frick up democracy
The main building
Trump told them to do it on social media
Shit!
Anybody have a beacon mount /eva 3 without having to do any soldoering and cutting the USB cable
Don't do eva3
why
Back to overhang capabilities
Still needs some tuning but I’m glad my prototyping machine is up and running again
The newest mount doesn't require any soldering
???
@twilit edge you have a link for the newest mount ?
https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/bottom/#trihorns-for-beacon
You'll also need the back piece. That doc entry links to it.
Documentation for the EVA3 for Mercury One mod.
Thanks...have to dry filament has some moisture in it ...fun times
I'm team vz-toolhead
Goliath is better than eva
Eva3 is cool for 1 reason if u do it.
4028
There's a Goliath mouth for EVA 3.
And for the Hextrudort.
Watercooled
U need vz-hextrudort, goliath and vz toolhead for the short 1
Which is better adxl results
Not my bailiwick, dunno if it's watercooled.
Don't need water cooled printer already have a dual watercooled pc with 4090
Ew
Ew what
Not watercoolkjng printer
its a fair ratio, watercooled pc so no watercooled printer
Yep
Still some slight issues on the overhangs
look not bad tho, are you using fan and minimum layer time?
those look perfect from that nagle
Nice print
Nice
keep in mind this is a build log for a user aka Vengeful. Not general chat 😛
😰
Going to get the 5160’s from mellow to drive the big guns in back from Vengful’s BOM.
Yeah the BTT. And i see why we got flagged. This threads got 11k more comments than any other build log.
Yea but so. Even so at 3k we coulda
lol what is going on?
Yea some btt ones can do 48v
Sorry I deleted it
@dawn vapor btt ones are good
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I went ahead and bought a nuc
It was $99 after the coupon
nuc is a intel trademark
I May just use it on my laser or my cnc build
noice
It’s a good backup option with all the pi issues right now
I May use it to run both my Mercs simultaneously
Ur welcome
Are you really burgo? I thought last convo we had about btt 5160 they where crap lol i looked up the fly. I like em.
They are fine if not 48v unless there is a high temp btt ones
Which cnc you building?
probably the queen bee
I got my workplace interested in a 3d printer. FDM. We have a 3500-6500 budget im thinking x1 carbon but is there something that fits that budget better?
sheesh, that’s quite the budget — maybe 5 Bambu’s 😂
What do you need the printer to accomplish?
Not the ULTIMATE BEE ?
that one
@shell wolf i just need to do some construction
I have some dead space in one of my attics
Im in the military. Smaller branch. As far as 3d printers go, its all new tech so they don’t know what it could be used for. I think it would be perfect for short term part replacement. Non critical items. Pipes and fittings.
To them it is. Thats how far behind they are.
X1 Carbon is not a good idea for a military branch. It has some very naughty security issues.
Dunno how much they fixed, but cleartext passwords on a cloud-enabled printer give me the shivers.
It would get hacked from China.
Exactly my concern.
I would go something known for reliability to start, if possible. Prusa MK4 is available now. Speed is not a concern. This is the military. They will buy more.
OTOH, that budget could get a fully enclosed, industrial grade printer. Raise3D, for example, though I have no brand recommendations in that area.
Er...sorry @naive swan . Drawing your log off-topic.
We’re all getting banned
Seems likely.
So what
no we better not
Banned for what
Thats not too much of a worry as it wont ever (at least this machine) be connected to the internet or a military network for that matter. I would prefer it be something scratch build for this small price range but getting a BoM that can be purchased would be a nightmare.
Slicer would probably be a small cheapo computer running prusaslicer or something similar.
For using this as open chat vs straight build log. Although there is lots of colab on the build.
yeah...
I’d join
Cht nozzle on the ZANDVE or no
i have done it
?
cht nozzle on the zandve
?
thats why talk here and not a general chat
You can send that to their dms
also cause we don't have u deleting them msgs cause its the hidden spot before
its literally not anything wrong with it. its a golf anime song that sounds like a organ.
chatGPT just confirmed it as an organ for me.
We're not going to argue. If we see stuff we remove it.
@sour prairie I’m surprised we are barely causing issues after almost 13k messages on this build log
Burgo left the server apparently. @naive swan are you using any filament detector in your typez?
Also modified that part i pointed out earlier. Will post in my mod files in your repo
I have the creality ones that came stock but I have never installed it
I suck at mods so just elongated the bolt locations
Allows wiggle room
Oh lol
I had a hell of a time trying to reline the holes
I will do it on the cad then
Tinkercad is not friendly with this lol
Yep f360 has some simple solutions
Just line up and do a extrude cut
GDSTIME Brushless Radial Blower Fan High Speed 24V DC Centrifugal Fan 120mm x120mm x 32mm https://a.co/d/7Ce6YVS
Getting ready for bed fans
2
very nice
Im sure not as nice as your prints
That looks pretty good to me, my red looks like crap unless I print it on my V0
Those 120mm blowers are insane. Huge volumes of air.
Kinda excited to see how that goes.
Does the cht nozzle improve quality?
It improves flow
Just flow
Ohh, I don’t think I need that
As you crank up the speed, you might
Time to install the filament holder !
Bottom panel
And unfortunately all new mounts since I had some warping on the last set
Really tore up the belts
Yow.
Time to perform heatset recovery
What filament holder is that?
Its turtles new one
Chonky i like.
What speeds are you printing at?
not sure, super slicer controls it so i can print at 11mm3s no matter what
yeah the link you sent me?
cheers again dude 😄
i need to add the 15mm3 for my v0 since that has a dragon with a cht nozzle so it can handle that flow
my revo can barely do 11mm3
ive been doing some research about the start and end scripts in the slicer and printer config aswell
yep thats alot of things to learn
with the standard nozzle on my hf dragon, ive seen it reach 60mm3s
hmm where can i find that stl vengeful?
Yeah when i had 0.4 nozzle in
i may go for a goliath
on the zandve?
^
Remember i have 2
Oh yeah, also you wanted the hextrovort
yep thats why
48v and water cooling too?
Probably not 48v but I am not opposed if it’s needed
Alignment is much better now
Question, why do you choose to go with the old stepper mounts?
easier to integrate with the enclosure
I see
Old pic
It’s currently on hydra so something’s have changed
Just swapping some parts right now
@dawn vapor
fixed
just created an indexing pin and move the three hole faces using point to point move
They are uploaded - https://github.com/Vprince099/ZANDVE
Much cleaner now, just need a longer reverse Bowden
Does the back hinge hit your steppers? I had to add a small cutout so i could put the hinge blocks down and not interfere with steppers.
It just rests on them, but it works fine on the standard top hat
With XL it should be less of a problem
Why does faster speed=less motor noise
Its like diesel engines. They don’t like to idle. They like to go brrrr
Cause it sounds like you have stealthchop enabled
i have the drivers in spreadcycle. stealthchop_threshold: 0
Oh oke
should i use stealthchop?
I wouldn't recommend it
okay, alot of people say that
It's because you lose torque at higher speeds and makes a lot of noise
That makes sense
what printers do you have?
obvioulsy atleast a zero G 😄
Ohh awsome, looking foward
When you say higher speeds, what would you class as to high for stealthchop
I’m not bothered about printing this fast, just want quiet printing that can go through the night
But your getting quiet printing at higher speeds
Vengeful are you using the xl top on the type z?
yeah, quieter from motors but the extra speed causes more noise through everything else
Thats why you bolt it to the wall 😂
I wish i could, but its hallow plaster board and my bedroom is right above haha
its carries noise so bad
You could tune it so it plays a tune as it prints ?
hahaha, a bedtime lulabye
thats acctually class
when does the hydra version for the non plus drop 😂
@naive swan what top hat is on your type z the xl or normal?
Normal right now
Non plus with hydra?
yeah
@shell wolf technically it can already be done but the extrusions will be nonstandard sizes and the panels need to be sized after it’s put together
@shell wolf I will drop a an e5 pro version when I drop v1, slates for next weekend
How much is that little guy
99 was on sale
Windows Mini PC HIGOLEPC, Celeron Intel J4125 Mini Computers 8GB DDR4 128GB eMMC Fanless Mini PC Support Dual HDMI 4K, WiFi 6.0, BT 5.2 Home/Business Mini pc Windows 11 https://a.co/d/huvWrKE
Looks like it just went up
It was 149.99 with 50$ off coupon
Now it’s 169.99 with a 40$ off coupon
I just finished setting it up and it’s good so far
Kinda surprised
Glad I didn’t need to waste a windows key on it
And it’s a pro key so I can remote into it
Without a third party app
At 99 it’s a steal
I wish I could have gotten 2
Cheaper then some PI4
Just need to make sure light burn runs well and I have a contender to replace all my Pi’s
I have pi mounted in m.2 case
Just need to add a sd card for storage and I am good
Wth m.2 ssd drive
I have one but I use it as external storage
Yea
Me using Aaron m.2
Found one
Have 3 of them and 1 19in printed mack pi mount
Nice
I quit using SD cards due to failures
its connected to the nas, but just in case i want some stuff locally
Yea
Now we are talking
On a belted Z?
Oh snap this monitor has speakers
Doesn’t look bad
better then me
I saw the .26
I missed typed lol
lol
I have a big ole taco
Wait that comes with windows pro already??
man I hate leveling beds
Yes it does!
Have you guys installed KAMP?
I stopped using adaptive mesh when I got beacon
whould it not work with beacon?
It probably does, beacon is just so fast that I just scan the whole bed twice and it’s still much faster than normal probes (eg. Klicky)
Installing today
I also have a CNC tap but the lack of magnets is keeping me from installing it
@naive swan do you happen to know what the connector name is on the LDO steppers we got ? Not the side that plugs into stepper but the other side?
Actually no I just cut them off, they were very similar to a DuPont but they were something else
I do but i haven’t installed it yet
You made your own cable for this iirc?
I think they did a release that allows you to use adaptive mesh on beacon now
Lol I have the stuff to do it just haven’t tried yet
I’m thinking of running it on igus Chainflex
Yeah i think thats what im going to do. I like the sheath on it.
I have the 3do nozzle am installed on voron sb
It has a magnet, and the weight of the tool head makes its work fine
Do you have to run a separate cable for the video feed?
Does it work well and is it useful?
Yes it’s own usb cable
It would be good if the ebb36 could transmit this signal over can bus
Yes it has a usb cable and it works great
Pretty clear too
I need to see how to change the resolution since I have the 4k version
Maybe it’s possible but all you need is a pair to transmit the data
is it displayed on the mainsail or fluidd too?
Any chance you could show us how you mounted the little pcb?
3do nozzle cam
the pcb I have mounted in a door latch with a 3007 fan and sb2040
Need to clean up wiring a bit
cam pcb is on top and sb2940 in the left with 2 pi heatsinks and a 3007 fan
Was thinking about removing the PCB and drilling some really small holes for the cam pcb to allow more heat to be released
and circulation
Speed holes?
You should be careful in case it’s a multi layer pcb
Looks good quality tho
Oh I would remove the pcb 1st
@naive swan should have thought of a voron style hexcomb design for the top
@deep vine ...the stealth burner door latch not the pcb itself
Testing voron ...taken down the end 5 pro
Hey i made that! Or modified it anyways lol
Tinkercad gang
nice
The honeycomb ones anyways
You didn’t hurt it right
Dutch I apologize I'll talk about only build instead
lol dw m8
Oh right sorry yeah, that makes sense
Hope you get better soon @naive swan
RIP VENGEFUL GONE BUT NOT FORGOTTEN
lol no
just having a hard time getting up to my office
where my printers are at
if this continues im building one of these
and straping it to one of these