#Ender 5 Plus - Mercury 1 (Classic) with Stealth Burner and New Enclosure Project
1 messages · Page 4 of 1
@naive swan Im chomping at the bit to use the whole thing so doesn’t mean much im sure but i think this looks soooo good!
I will drop it on git hub soon
I was thinking. you will push air from skirt to backpack with some tubing.
becouse right now fans in skirt look like spare one.
I have a bunch of things that need cooling in there
CG over 3K comments on your build 🙂
Thanks, some of those are just random conversations though...lol
Alright it’s ASA time I think I found the issue, it seems that my sb mount and hotend cartridge parts are prone to heat creep. Abs seems to be good for some time and abs plus is good for 200hrs
@naive swan outta curiousity u got a recommend coax- to ethernet setup?
that is something i have done since 10 years ago, it not the fastest but it can work if you have a distribution hub for the coax but the price can be prohibitive since wifi mesh has gotten cheaper
also new ethernet drops may be more cost effective
k. just don't wanna go through the annoying charges ith router
@naive swan Looking good
wait, you are talking about the cable modem to a switch?
Thanks @mild hinge
have all in one rn. don't wnana pay for a router and wanna get good one/ setup
oh hook up your own system and put the providers modem/router into bridge mode
lol I as more looking to not pay em for it. or have most caught onto that stupid idea?
Alos it was what u thought with our router. the service si max 150.... we were 250
now were 100
you can have them provision your own modem but they range from 50-150 (depends on if you need docis 3.1 or 3.0)
lol LTT has video cause another sucker of canada
lol yeah
I just assumed go to actual dude who does this for a living
in the US, some of the providers charge you less if you use their modem since it feeds their public wifi, which they charge for like when you go a plane or are at hotel style
yea so for us looks like the cheapeat/ best makes u use theirs
i caught on to what they were doing and put it in bridge mode(if i have to i will put it in a faraday cage ... lol)
lol
@naive swan anytime
Wow the print quality of ASA is on another level, it looks like PLA
Im doing all my merc prints in asa aside from skirts. Printing without enclosure. If you start getting it peeling up just add some mouse ears and it prints awesome.
good tip, for some reason this print is coming out perfect....this may be the last time i print esun
nooooo?
!!!!
my canbus failed
So close
Only one part was left
What a waste
Ive been using polymaker to mixed results. Best I’ve used though is futura apollo x. But thats premium lol
Did you install your chain flex
ASA is alotta fun to print. Hopefully CANBUS is just a loose wire.
Not yet
Honestly, I think it’s the ucan
It has happened when the printer is idle and cool
How's it wired up? Twisted pair cable?
correct
one thing is for sure, ASA is way stronger than ABS+... Not sure if that warrants a 50% price increase over ABS+(and normal ABS) though
I believe for this it's supply and demand more than anything.
really? i thought it was just more expensive. I would make the switch to all ASA but its not worth it if i am constanly generating 1 to 2 kilos of waste a month
and yes i keep track
It's only 8 bucks more for ASA for spool then abs+ for me. But abs+ better sparkles
im getting my abs+ at ~$15-17 vs polylite ABS at $21 and polylite ASA for $31.... and this is all for black only no colors
in some cases ASA is 100% more
Figure how much ABS gets produced as filament and how much ASA.
The mfgr has to figure in their production overhead for each material, each color.
It could also be more expensive, to boot.
makes sense, dont get me wrong, i figured it was just more expensive. I just didnt consider demand had a role in that.
from my point of view, filament is tantamount to a commodity like wood or stone or foods. As more people use it for production, the more it becomes a license to produce as much as you can since it has the ability to store and its like a license to print money.
Taxes and storage costs. 🙂
Businesses keep low inventory to maximize revenue flow. Money sitting still is money not making more money.
taxes dont exist
Right. My point exactly.
Since they are a figment of our imagination, we must ignore them and not pay!
yes, but i am talking about storage that happens at the last mile(vendors, amazon, etc). Commodities have the same "issues". The way that is resolved is via price and demand. Once Filament becomes a full fledged commodity then we will be in another ball game.
This is all in reference to why i was not taking demand into account for the price of ASA. While demand does have an affect into non-commodities, its normally temporary. Think GPUs in 2020 to 2022; Since every GPU had the ability to make money(Like Filament to a degree). I just didn't think there was that significant of a demand for ASA to warrant a temporary demand price move.
Ah, I think I see what you mean. I meant the opposite supply and demand effect: low demand limits supply, keeping prices higher.
Although demand is higher than supply, it's not high enough to warrant higher production numbers. One example is the few colors of ASA available.
very good point, that i do see as a possible reason
Heh, I can see after your explanation why I wasn't making much sense earlier, lol.
As long as adding more PLA or PETG rolls is more profitable than ASA, we'll probably see it remain more expensive.
i think that will go away as we have higher enclosed printer adoption
I agree. Give it a few years, though.
yeah because any one can print that right now
Cooling the mcu and pi won’t be an issue anymore
i have no idea how to control based on MCU temp though
right now it just turns on when the hotend is on
Ok all 6 fans are wired up and configured to .5 fan speed since I don’t want to overload the board, I may make use of the mosfet that came with the printer to power the 4 fans at full speed later.
Now to re do the mounts and hotend mount
Controller_fan
Something like that
U want the one for tempature for not hotend/ activity I believe
There's a temp config that u can select the tempature awnsor
What board are you using?
skr 2 and an ebb
i have 3 fan ports and 2 heaters free
and 3 24v ports free as well
Hope that somewhat helps. Still new to klipper and im just going to be copy pasting the crap out of code when o switch over from marlin lol
Im running skr2’s atm as well
perfect
thank you @dawn vapor
i will make the changes after i finish installing my new asa parts
it worked, i just had to remove the standalone temperature sensor section so it wouldnt conflict
noice. I needa put together my V2.4 frame tmrw
@shell wolf did u put together ur tradrack?
nope! 😄
need more filament of that color
found some -- printing accents rn
well the problem is my abs+, i can see why the red has an issue since its 2 months old but my black roll is brand new
my polylite ABS roll is printing like nothing else
i guess i am ordering some rolls to finish this project
well i ordered some red ASA and ABS, and 5 rolls of ABS
just going to make the switch to polylite
too bad, i really liked the matte finish of ABS+
I need suggestions for a repo name
Unofficial but most complete merc enclosure 😂
Someone has frame in frame
UBMCM
lol
@shell wolf most my stuff came in today.
what’s the haul?? Post it in ur build thread and tag me
me too
servo in the way. bearings. ecas. styepper people OMC motors
they mean on the annex server. their tradrack beta
my sherpa gear
no I meant in here 😂
cause fricekd other
I didn’t even know you could make guild threads in annex
my carriage isn't here yet sadlu
tthe stupid bearings
7mm OD x 5mm ID x 0.5mm Thick - Spring Steel Shim Washer
Worst component cause its expensive
I think UBMCME rolls off the tongue
"Neverending Stories" are a fantasy that may soon be reality. But after decades on the shounen anime treadmill, that dream sounds more like a nightmare to me, even if they fix all the bugs.
Here's why it's good for us to Let Goku (and Homer, Jerry, Boruto's dad, etc.) Die.
#dragonball #anime
Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/moth...
@naive swan
SHOOT ME DOWN BUT I WONT FALL
are they titanium 🙂
Ofc. Gotta turn this rod into diamond now well the fibers are good enough
how dare you
Wdym
I need to tune for the abs but it worked
Let Goku die....
Man I've had this carbon tube for MPNTHSSSSS
Watch it its good video.
im sure it is....
he was supposed to never come back after cell saga
so they already tried that
Gohan was supposed to replace him
that was the goal...
@vocal terrace its like if they decided to bring all-might back with all his powers after they figured Midoria couldn't carry the show by himself
Yea that would be dog shit. Fuck that
They do better shit though
I was wrong the epsidoe of the one person returning is next weeks
If gohan hadnt sucked so much in cell fight and gone down the wimp route after it would have worked.
It's gonna be certified banger
Problem is All might was a shadow of the past not the main protagonist. In DBZ Goku was the main protagonist. Hence why it didn’t work out
Totally stole gohans moment 😦
almightalmight argubaly has one of the best final fuights
Yep they teased him this week
so far
Sure but he is on a pedestal and used more as a comparison tool, where as Goku in this case was Midoriya
it talks about MHA
Witch of Mercury is ok by the way… kind of dumb
what part
Unicorn was my last fav gundam series
I really liked S1 witch from mercuyr
Nothing will ever replace the universal century storyline
Thunderbolt is good too though
I think when they go into these non war series they always seem to be ridiculous narratives
If war wasn’t the driving narrative then gundams would not need to exist in those timelines
They are not at war
They are peacetime
Sometimes it can work
no. they are literally fighting the earth people who are rebelling
But mah dating chivalry match requires a wmd.
Also rebellions can work as a narrative
They are not at war though
Or getting attacked
And it’s not like they really pose a threat
uuu didnt finish all 12 episodes right
In that case, it would work if earth had the gundams
No just dubbed which is at 7
trust me u will be happy
it does.
This high school narrative is bs
but I almost spoiled the show lol
Nah
If you hadn’t have said anything I would have stopped watching after episode 6, 7 for sure
trust mne
IT IS GONNA PICK UP
bruh u didnt like the mom being a buttheadand creating that epic endig
that was a bs episode
had nothing to do with gundam
just corporate politics
if i wanted that i would watch Suits
lol
I think this is tgundam tjhe corporations seasons
GAY GIRLS INIT HENCE OPION OVERRULED
Get in the robot gay girl!
Her special robot
Season 1 of Mobile Suit Gundam the Witch from Mercury, episodes 1-11, will be streamed in a marathon on the GUNDAM.INFO YouTube channel from 22:00 on 3/25(sat)!
https://en.gundam.info/about-gundam/series-pages/witch/gallery/special/
This stream is your chance to watch the show with other Gundam fans from around the world!
Don't miss this opport...
@naive swan
im done, pictures soon
Done
ngl I'mma not add screen
It was for looks and it was cheap
So why not
I have a 7 inch that I want to mount up top
It was also a “give options” type of deal
looks really good mate, good job!
ive ordered the ebb36, they where out of stock but seems like they have sent me the SB2209, i hope it will fit the SB with the orbiter 2
What about cooling tho, when the can board is on the back ther is space for a fan…
it has better space. if u mount it up more (fan) then u could prob get away with losing no X
Have you got any pics of your tool head?
no.
🙃
I do like the fact it comes with a cable tho
but smaLL crimps
2240, is that for 36v?
24V still
What’s the difference?
well I got ut cayse yolo
Big kids,
yee
May not fit with orbiter tho
u look at my thread?
true
[display]
lcd_type: uc1701
cs_pin: EXP1_3
a0_pin: EXP1_5
rst_pin: EXP1_4
contrast: 63
encoder_pins: ^EXP2_5, ^EXP2_3
click_pin: ^!EXP1_2
Some micro-controller boards may require an spi bus to be specified:
spi_bus: spi1
Alternatively, some micro-controller boards may work with software spi:
spi_software_miso_pin: EXP2_1
spi_software_mosi_pin: EXP2_6
spi_software_sclk_pin: EXP2_2
[output_pin beeper]
pin: EXP1_1
[neopixel btt_mini12864]
pin: EXP1_6
chain_count: 3
color_order: RGB
initial_RED: 0.4
initial_GREEN: 0.4
initial_BLUE: 0.4
Set RGB values on boot up for each Neopixel.
Index 1 = display, Index 2 and 3 = Knob
[delayed_gcode setdisplayneopixel]
initial_duration: 1
gcode:
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=1 BLUE=1 INDEX=1 TRANSMIT=0
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 INDEX=2 TRANSMIT=0
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 INDEX=3
No?
this shit is not working
meant vengeful
it lights up at least
its spi prob
wtf
[board_pins]
aliases:
# EXP1 header
EXP1_1=PC5, EXP1_3=PB1, EXP1_5=PE10, EXP1_7=PE12, EXP1_9=<GND>,
EXP1_2=PB0, EXP1_4=PE9, EXP1_6=PE11, EXP1_8=PE13, EXP1_10=<5V>,
# EXP2 header
EXP2_1=PA6, EXP2_3=PE7, EXP2_5=PB2, EXP2_7=PC4, EXP2_9=<GND>,
EXP2_2=PA5, EXP2_4=PA4, EXP2_6=PA7, EXP2_8=<RST>, EXP2_10=<NC>
#####################################################################
Displays
#####################################################################
For the mini12864 Display, the [display] and [neopixel] must be uncommented
mini12864 LCD Display
connected to exp1/2 on Z(main) MCU
[display]
lcd_type: uc1701
cs_pin: EXP1_3
a0_pin: EXP1_5
rst_pin: EXP1_4
contrast: 63
encoder_pins: ^EXP2_5, ^EXP2_3
click_pin: ^!EXP1_2
Some micro-controller boards may require an spi bus to be specified:
spi_bus: spi1
Alternatively, some micro-controller boards may work with software spi:
spi_software_miso_pin: EXP2_1
spi_software_mosi_pin: EXP2_6
spi_software_sclk_pin: EXP2_2
[output_pin beeper]
pin: EXP1_1
[neopixel btt_mini12864]
pin: EXP1_6
chain_count: 3
color_order: RGB
initial_RED: 0.4
initial_GREEN: 0.4
initial_BLUE: 0.4
Set RGB values on boot up for each Neopixel.
Index 1 = display, Index 2 and 3 = Knob
[delayed_gcode setdisplayneopixel]
initial_duration: 1
gcode:
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=1 BLUE=1 INDEX=1 TRANSMIT=0
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 INDEX=2 TRANSMIT=0
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 INDEX=3
Some micro-controller boards may require an spi bus to be specified:
spi_bus: spi1
Alternatively, some micro-controller boards may work with software spi:
spi_software_miso_pin: EXP2_1
spi_software_mosi_pin: EXP2_6
spi_software_sclk_pin: EXP2_2
i tried spi bus, no dice
i have an ebb with one
not thw reason
EXP2_8=<RST>
whut
i have no idea what i am doing lol
sk2 and btt mini12864
@naive swan Mini12864 Troubleshooting Checklist
The Mini12864 display can be a little tricky to get running correctly. Here is a short checklist to help double check some of the common issues.
Have you Rotated the headers on the back of the display? See Hardware above
Is EXP1 connected to EXP1, and EXP2 to EXP2?
Have you enabled all the config sections? you must have [display], [output_pin beeper], [neopixel fysetc_mini12864], AND [delayed_gcode setdisplayneopixel] to fully enable all features of your display. (many users may not feel the need to enable [output_pin beeper])
Voron 2 dual MCU configurations: Is your firmware configuration in agreement with your physical wiring about which MCU board the display is connected to? ( As provided in the stock printer.cfg, the display should be connected to MCU-Z )
saw that
this is my problem
Fysetc Spider Only: The Fysetc Spider requires certain components to be removed from the mini12864 display.
From a Fysetc display, remove R1 & R4
From a BTT display, remove R1 & C6
what does that mean?
got it
wgat was?
lol
that took way too long to find
this what i have
my config is set for this
i just need to change the config
the pins changed from v1 to v2
@vocal terrace i appreciate the vote of confidence....
L + RATIO
damn this is rough
Case works as an enclosure right. Don’t have to reinvent the wheel. Looks awesome @naive swan
i just need to get the pins right
[board_pins]
aliases:
# EXP1 header
EXP1_1=PC5, EXP1_3=PB1, EXP1_5=PE10, EXP1_7=PE12, EXP1_9=<GND>,
EXP1_2=PB0, EXP1_4=PE9, EXP1_6=PE11, EXP1_8=PE13, EXP1_10=<5V>,
# EXP2 header
EXP2_1=PA6, EXP2_3=PE7, EXP2_5=PB2, EXP2_7=PC4, EXP2_9=<GND>,
EXP2_2=PA5, EXP2_4=PA4, EXP2_6=PA7, EXP2_8=<RST>, EXP2_10=<NC>
#####################################################################
Displays
#####################################################################
For the mini12864 Display, the [display] and [neopixel] must be uncommented
mini12864 LCD Display
connected to exp1/2 on Z(main) MCU
[display]
lcd_type: uc1701
cs_pin: EXP1_3
a0_pin: EXP1_5
rst_pin: EXP1_4
contrast: 63
encoder_pins: ^EXP2_5, ^EXP2_3
click_pin: ^!EXP1_2
Some micro-controller boards may require an spi bus to be specified:
spi_bus: spi1
Alternatively, some micro-controller boards may work with software spi:
spi_software_miso_pin: EXP2_1
spi_software_mosi_pin: EXP2_6
spi_software_sclk_pin: EXP2_2
case?
The enclosure you built
yes
Was just addressing the “doors” lol
I cant remember if i asked. Did you do anything on the x belt path? How on the current merc release they are angling back towards Stealthburner?
it still does that
And what program where you building this with. Im still tinkering with tinkercad and i need something more robust
got it damn....
########################################
EXP1 / EXP2 (display) pins
########################################
[board_pins]
aliases:
# EXP1 header
EXP1_1=PC5, EXP1_3=PB1, EXP1_5=PE10, EXP1_7=PE12, EXP1_9=<GND>,
EXP1_2=PB0, EXP1_4=PE9, EXP1_6=PE11, EXP1_8=PE13, EXP1_10=<5V>,
# EXP2 header
EXP2_1=PA6, EXP2_3=PE7, EXP2_5=PB2, EXP2_7=PC4, EXP2_9=<GND>,
EXP2_2=PA5, EXP2_4=PA4, EXP2_6=PA7, EXP2_8=<RST>, EXP2_10=<NC>
#####################################################################
Displays
#####################################################################
For the mini12864 Display, the [display] and [neopixel] must be uncommented
mini12864 LCD Display
connected to exp1/2 on Z(main) MCU
[display]
lcd_type: uc1701
cs_pin: EXP1_3
a0_pin: EXP1_4
rst_pin: EXP1_5
contrast: 63
encoder_pins: ^EXP2_5, ^EXP2_3
click_pin: ^!EXP1_2
Some micro-controller boards may require an spi bus to be specified:
spi_bus: spi1
Alternatively, some micro-controller boards may work with software spi:
spi_software_miso_pin: EXP2_1
spi_software_mosi_pin: EXP2_6
spi_software_sclk_pin: EXP2_2
[output_pin beeper]
pin: EXP1_1
[neopixel btt_mini12864]
pin: EXP1_6
chain_count: 3
color_order: RGB
initial_RED: 0.4
initial_GREEN: 0.4
initial_BLUE: 0.4
Set RGB values on boot up for each Neopixel.
Index 1 = display, Index 2 and 3 = Knob
[delayed_gcode setdisplayneopixel]
initial_duration: 1
gcode:
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=1 BLUE=1 INDEX=1 TRANSMIT=0
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 INDEX=2 TRANSMIT=0
SET_LED LED=btt_mini12864 RED=1 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 INDEX=3
who said i was a crappy software dev?
lol
What are you trying to fix? Under extrusion?
Yep
I found the issue
The gear was grinding on the idler arm
Took some time to notice because the white was not showing
But now it has a red hue
The new gear has a lower profile
We will see if the 15 vs 30$ kit is worth it
Noice
Oof I'd assume was cause other gear with that issue rip
And a vzzz 👀
Hehehe I got one already
U see it's retraction speeds
60mm/s is vez speeds for retraction
the cheap gear was much thicker, leading to clearance issues
EBB36 wit 31865 , can use NTC too or it can use only PT100 or PT1000 ?
....
That's a easy question
Both.
Max31865 is an added circuit
Don't wire ntc to it
i start thinking about upgrade to CAN Ebb36 w31865 and U2C v2.1 and orbiter 2.0 ,
I have breaking wire in cable chain
I am not sure about orbiter becouse CW2 and orbiter look same in main design
yep, always a problem
@raven widget the only reason i would drop cw2 would be for a metal solution. like the Galileo (the sb version is not available yet)
i see few ppl witch say vz- hextreuder, but its same design as CW2
if somebody doesnt come with 4gear drive i think CW2 its good enought
that too is a really good option
when you chose EBB 36, did you also look at SB2209?
I'm still considering whether U2C is necessary? for Octopus pro v1.1
Not if u have RJ12 crimps.
It's better design. I have one wayyyy better
U2C is ch3aper if u don't have the crimps/ easy setup ones. U2C more documentation too
Rj12 programming or easy wiring stuff
Usb-can isn't bad to setup. But like look at it's price vs U2C
2209 is a biach to deal with the micro pins
it is not neccesary and sb2209 uses tiny connectors so i noped out
i have 2 ebb36s and the mellow sb 2040, all with utocs,(1 mellow, 1 BTT, 1 Fystec
I dont recommend mellow
Yes BTT has the heater issue but u can not wire it to start. Welp Mellow has no bootloader
before it was the only intregrated option for SB
BTT fix that by changing the pin in v1.2
Yea
But still was an issue. It's common too with em. I just say to let people know vs of issues
I believe annex doesn't recommend em after that lol
I think the problem is youst dont know if you are getting the latest version
Fingers crossed
witch one igus cable you bought ?
West 3d di theirs
2x0,25 for H,L , 2x2x0,5 to power ?
2 cores and 2 twisted pairs
nicer color ,nicer price why it so far 😄
well igus sells direct
its cheap worldwide even
west3d is about the same price depending on how you order
the more you get the better igus direct is
ok print status, my issue is resolved, i just need to tune my EM
y, from dirrect order its look like -25% even in europe. 2days delivery not bad
i have it at .95 but i think i need it to be .89 to .93
yep its pretty good
i think they dont bother with middle men since they have way too many options and vendors could not handle the inventory requirement
they are german company with a global footprint
their products are used for manufacturing in all kinds of robotics
so they have reason to have a local footprint in most regions
they have nice solutions for cable chains, i thing this guys pwn roller coster bussines 🙂
they are the go to for most robotics production, industrial cnc, and most industrial cable management
and they have fair pricing for the quality and warranty they provide
So i learned a lesson....
i bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097YL3C6J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
.....
then bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08F7MW72N/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
fabreeko kit prob better
the later was way better
its from polished
keep ur brass gear
they are a good vendor
for ur tradcrack
i have a bunch of extras
im sure this would have been good
Original Bondtech® OEM set of parts to use on the Sherpa Minifrom the Annex Engineering group. With BMG® original 1.75/5.0 mm set of Hardened Steel Drive Gears Precision cnc-machined. Super sharp teeth for maximum grip on the filament. The perfect choice for a high-performance feeding system. Extremely high wear resis
but 10$ cost me at least 60$ in filament
ridga?
bondtech ridga gears
new integrated gear/ other gear
more accuracy
wiat its getting a cw2 I belive
might be reverse
About RIDGA ► https://www.bondtech.se/2023/03/09/turning-lemons-into-lemonade-chapter-two/
Link to RIDGA ► https://www.bondtech.se/product/bmg-reverse-integrated-drive-gear-assembly/
Link to HextrudORT kit ► https://www.bondtech.se/product/bmg-reverse-set-for-hextrudort/
This new RIDGA from Bondtech should make quite a difference on your print...
@naive swan i saw that you had trouble with the toolhead getting to hot for abs right? would you advise to still do it with abs or go with asa?
my abs+ tooldhead can do 265C easy with sparta3d filament
abs shouldn't be issue if u have abs, if u have asa just do asa
i have neither
buy asa.
but i cant find the color in asa i want 😓
Asa for sure on the hotend carrier and mount to the rail
and where u located
what printing temp?
The netherlands
For anyone looking to build this and in the the US…. Get this 10pcs 500mm V Slot 2020 Aluminum Extrusion Black European Standard Anodized Linear Rail for CNC DIY 3D Printer and Industrial Bracket Making https://a.co/d/dh8cxw0
what filament company?
why 10
250c on polylite
bruh how that melt
ur hotend fan is crap
I do 265C with a rapido on my V2.4 and no issue
hol up burg
its a sunon fan.
i only have some bulk black pla from creality, so i dont have any specific companies i order from
what are you asking
polymaker for abs
get their asa
through their website
was ur plastic parts getting too hot
cause that low of temp is sus
I'd expect ur fan isn't good
abs plus was warping at that temp
fan is fine
no burg your misunderstanding
just general warp?
Abs plus would melt and warp at 250c
Polylite ASA and ABS would not do that
yea I see the extruder fricky there lol
my sparta abs+ is good for those pieces oof
ASA cost 50% more so i dont want to push anyone that route for everything
Hmm thnx for advise 🙂
This is EM 95% so just a quick test and I am ready for full bed plates again
I think my abs+ may be salvageable as well
This was poly lite abs that I just printed
I think it prob needs to be dried
yep the 2 rolls that i have opened have been in the driers for 48hrs
lol its humid right now... my Whole home dehumidifiers have dumped over 10 liters in the last 2 days
officially in thunderstorm season
I think ill do black asa for those parts and do green abs(+) for the accent color parts then it should be fine
i try to keep the house at ~43%
which parts exactly?
ill take a photo of my parts after 100 hours of printing 265C
i did temp tunning and nothing changed for me before, but i will check again
im really suprised abs+ turned out that poo
it looks good but it can not take the heat
Atleast those 4
i run fans at 50% and i think it was blowing alot of hot air its way
But i think ill do all the tool head parts that primary color in black asa
50% is ur issue
100% for hotend I akways do
just get a sunon
why not always 100%
for part fan
that will be good
@thorny vine just remember to tune between filaments
lol
How do you mean tune?
some people dont tune every param
even color changes need a tune
^ ESPECIALLY
I have some filament EM of 93.5
some 92.2
some 95
all same type same comapny
Aah yeah i get it 🙂 i make sure to do that
@vocal terrace not just that, temp, rotation distance, fan speed, retraction
rotation distance no
U do that 1 time
then em
rotation distance is 100mm/s without heatup
100mm not s
I don't do temp or really retraction
depends on my printer
my E3 V2 I do a 0.2 from filament of retracton but 265C cause strength
different brands are smoother or rougher and have more resistance in the reverse bowden and extruder
but EM helps for that too
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yes but at that point its "kentucky windage"
why?
cxause LTT hacked
Bungie says they will honor Lance's presence in #Destiny2 "through his performances yet to come in the game, and in the memories that will last us a lifetime."
RIP.
):
only reason im still ever on twitter
rip u see that Lanec Reddick passed away
cool ass dude
what the hell
omg I can see bookmarks now
you using my build log as the news thread
vengeful was cancelled today on twitter
poor vegeta
LOL I FORGOT ABOUT THAT
pog article
and game
I have never played Destiny
not my jame
modded minecraft.... now we are talking
lance reddick was a bad ass mofo anyways
i get sucked into a pack and i loose a month of my life, just saying
i play hypixel skyblock
fun burgo minus foot lettuce. my older IGN is Sir_Gnome with antoehr dash. and I helped create a 100mil yt series.
RiP technoblade ):
skyblock is fun, my last one was Compact Claustrophobia
I played alot of skyblock
like prob 3k hours too
More news, new safety third post features prominent maker william osman and Allen pan dropped
ATM mods usally get me hooked
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I used to be a professional Minecraft player
I builded things for $$$
Other news
i build for money
@naive swan printer looks awesome glad you finaly finished it
Vengeful get omnifixos
@naive swan nice
what?
@naive swan Ill have to order some more filament
did you get the extrusions yet?
Omnifixo arms
@mild hinge if you havent gotten these yet, they are a good deal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B9XFCJ3S?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
you need 10 for the build
9 500mm and 1 400mm
well i did an em test before checking my rotation distance.... i was off by 1.13... fml
Thank me lager
i started a print that is not impacted by clearance so much and just guessed an em of 91%
I do 93
i look in a bit at that @vocal terrace
@naive swan no not yet
ah ok thats a good deal
Im at 15-30part cooling on abs and asa
let’s see ur beat castle
Let's see ur sick beats
@naive swan u thinking of ever cpap or 4028 fan?
if i go external air the i will do CPAP since i have 2
no my wife used to work for a company that donated them
and they had some that were only used once and returned and they couldnt donate them again
so she had them in storage and i gave them 20 for them
this was when i realized people were using them for this
poggers
i got nothing
i could bust out revit architecture though
are u thinking of ticking trident or hydra bed?
hydra then making a trident?
good question, i am going to wait for a hydra kit but i have started sourcing trident parts(the rails specifically) and the extrusions. i ordered 6 500mm z rails
damn
hydra would be the fastest implementation if the kit was available
trident requires a remix to fit the e5plus
so thats time i need to invest
problem is i have an order of 150 champagne flutes to laser first....that my wife ask me about at lest once every 2 days
oof
I think imma do 2040s for my frame now
the flipped X it is
then add on the extra stuff
I'mma do prob the brackets gonna use for voron and blind joints as option
those brackets make the ez trident middle part
The prints are good now
too much watter
unlike u
drink water!
That part is so annoying cause they have to be together
what parts?
well i reprinted them because i forgot to tune
my trad rack has so much ghosting lol
the 2 parts in the middle are the z wagu mounts
hehehe i need speed
specific for the e5plus bed with mains installed
and stock Z
but i am using knock off wagu connectors
so they are not for public use
unless they have the same knock of connectors
vengeful opinion. do I do 2040s or 4040s. 4040s i'd make doomcube style with
I need to print containers
lol
and get better allen keys
u look at http://omnifixo.com
if cost is not an issue then 4040 but only if you are going 300mm or higher
4040 on 250mm printer would be overkill
hey i got that one with some thing
I want it to be scalable. Ideally I'mma do 2040s and 4040s
Wera?
I have been meaning to buy a good set but this works fine
i wish i could change the picture on this thread
KEKW
VANDE
?
ZANDVE
are u good
Zero And Voron for Ender
no thats my github repo name
Guys I'm sorry but I must do it.
Me knowing true anime of the year
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You misspelled blue lock
21qt food storage containers make great dryboxes. https://www.walmart.com/ip/Rubbermaid-Modular-Canister-Food-Storage-Container-with-Lid-21-Cup/16486809
I used a big one
Ooh, that'll keep nicely. My printers are in different rooms, though, so my filament has to be more portable.
And there's a lot of it. LOL. LIke over 20 dryboxes, I think.
its not bad... am more danmachi guy myself 😄
I’m going the big container route now
with these on each stored roll https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3222374
Credit First
I took the really cool design from kpawel and TheTimetraveler then modified it for my purposes.
Original Quote
The main idea was that the square holes have a 27% wider opening surface without letting the round particles fall through any easier (the holes are still 1.5mm wide). Also a sphere and a square hole can never form a seal un...
i have a vaccumm sealer as well but i dont know if that will be part of the plan
rolls only last me a week sometimes
Those rubbermaids you're storing rolls in are what I print out of. Cut a hole in the front, add a PC4-M10 coupler...
Yep
konosuba is better than danmachi
no chance
also my SB2240 came
if you say so 🤪
E-X-P-L-O-S-I-O-N!
Couldn't get EVERY explosion because Youtube keeps Copyrighting it. Sorry.
Also, come and Like our Facebook Page:
https://www.facebook.com/MoeMoeWorld
bruh its stupid photo one
but still pog
ok so btt failed 1 thign i've found. they soldered ends of the cable wires
THEY INCLUDE FERRUES
BRUH
@naive swan the fan board includes duponts lol
Oooh, sexy!
What crimper u got
Iwiss 2820M might be what is needed idk if it's 0.7 or 1mm
I have this
Will this do
OPM is stronger… just sayin 😂
Came with my jst
they aren't as good as PA-09 but they are cheape
Yeah
but 1 trick pony?
just bought those… waiting on them
they don't look like they are that great ngl.
Send me a link to yours
where u located?
England
but british people don't exist
IWS-2820M is the ones
About this item Purpose: IWS-2820M open barrel crimper tool is designed to crimp non-insulated open barrel, OEM-style terminals. Perfect for servo lead connectors and some other RC crimp connectors. Capability: 0.08-0.5m㎡, AWG 28-20. IWS-2820 does many mini micro sizes like U-barrel or stamped style terminals. Perfect
BRUIH
31 dollars of shipping
Ahh nice, so you must mean 0.07
I don’t see why my pliers won’t work then, I’ve done loads of jst with them
I agree they arnt nice to work with tho
these aren't same JST
hartk said it causes clearance issues on the SB
are they jst sh?
thats what he did
I actually really do like this board so far. only thing is the small heatsink. Ideally were more of em
I'm gonna prob make a PG7 mount and fan mount for board
I might do this without the steal wire lo
@naive swan u using PS, SS Orca or cura?
I'm gonan prob move from SS to orca now
@deep vine you may need to get something like this
@vocal terrace SuperSlicer all the way
lol
I have 10 of em
15 cause got more drivers
I also orderd 10 more 5160 heatsinks
I just cut the pins on my 2209 tops
then add 5160s cause heat is not my friend but enemie
i dont know, nothing revolutionary is really happing on those updates. Once that happens then i will switch
that was enough for me to walk away from the 2209. for now
i have 3 can boards right now
dang
what u got it on?
@naive swan this reminds me of u
Guess printing this
looks good
I didn't realize was lgx lite....
yeah...
problem is i have beacon as well
where does its usb board mount?
on the fan
oh
ur other board is where?
i use ebb36
this seems bad
so 1 board
I mean 3d0 board
for me on the back of my 5015
Ahhhh
Oh snap!
Where does the fan go?
I use the 1st hole for ph
there isn't that why sketch
Ahhh, has anyone design a fan mount yet?
its suffocating
well they do the dual boards there
thats why its sketch. 2 board so close. 1 being a heater
and this is why you dont use the 3do cam with 2 piece boards
Yeah, scary
Water cooling?
Do you mean because of water and electricity
no its so compact
Oh right yeah
cpap would solve all of this
Cpap can cooling 😄
yes
Drafty abs prints lol
Do you mean a separate coiling tube just for the cam board?
I like the idea tbh
yes
like an air assist
like what i use on my laser
😂
one sec
so the crimpers for these guys are 1.25mm pitch
gargamel (known for crazy good crimps) Didn't even really have tool for it
It was a different time then…. We built with plywood… the year was 2019….
lol
Nice, I see so it’s using like a pvc tube
i want one too ... but wife kill me 😄 "my expectation are to cut tranpsparent acrylic "
Kinda, it’s rated for drag chains and soft, 6mm OD maybe 7mm I think
It can’t cut acrylic, you will need CO2 or a 40w laser…. Which is pricey
I asked my wife for a 40w toolhead… you would think I asked her for concubine
Okay, maybe it could be an even smaller diameter, what sort of heat is being scrubbed from the laser?
Heat none, just smoke and fumes
Oh it’s a vacuum?
I know , but neje make nice steps even in led tool heads but that price is too high.
Xtool is just asking for too much money right now. If I get the 40w I might as well get a Chinese co2 laser for 3k
I’m about 1200$ into my laser
2nd tool head is 10w
Okay, when I get my ebb sb2209 and enclosure built I think I will build and test a system like this
Mabey with a 5015 fan
I have a 4028 fan lying about somewhere
I think you could swing a 50$ air assist and get cool air just to the can if the heat is too high
It can’t be regulated though
Just on and off
What does this do that a fan and pipe could not do.
The fan could be regulated from the mcu
it can push the air down a small hose, basically it has more back pressure
fans can't compress air
I mean...
so small hoses cant carry air as well
@twilit edge yes with proper design and a strong fan
but it will be loud
I'm pulling your leg here. I know you're not designing a turbine engine in there.
DUCTED INTAKE CPAP! MAXIMUM LAMINAR FLOW!
well we were talking cpap but then we started talking "send cool air to the can via a small hose"
Then I got a wild hair up my backside and now we're in no-fella's-land.
yep, thats exactly how it went down
But for real, I saw water cooling mentioned and dunno if that was someone else or you thinking aloud.
the enclosure thread went off on that tangent and it almost started here as well
Whoopsie. I'll just...ah... poof
i mean its a great build
If you mean yours, yes. 🙂
Ahh okay, so the pressure
thanks, i know there are some good ones that most people have not seen because they didnt do build logs
yeah, you can skim through the serial announcements, there are some amazing builds all around
completely agree, too bad you only get a glimpse
I love the “vanilla” design, it pretty slick. It’s quite impressive how minimal design choices such as color and adds on can make a difference. But what shines in my opinion are the enclosures. even early on there are incredible ideas. I wish there was a more official focus on that
there is but it takes time, the problem is the overhang of the gantry, it took me 3 months of tinkering to figure mine out.
since i didnt want the added heft of more vertical extrusions
I am thinking thick wood side panels (~18mm) and bother my neighbour to borrow me the router to dig the side of the y axis 😬
that wood work
and bolt everything with t nuts on the frame… it’s a so basic design that it might just work
just leave your self some clearance for insulation barrier
it basically how i started, but i used coroplast
oh snap ltt was deleted?
i thought it was just floatplane
Supposedly it's back now
yea it is
already confirmed as topic
damn you ucan dropped connection again
might be pawer issue from le potato as well
FYSETC UCAN Board Based on STM32F072 USB to CAN Adapter Support with CAnable / CandleLight / Klipper firmware Features: - Based on STM32F072 - Type-C USB socket - Supports CAN2.0A and B, baud rates up to 1M - Compatible with CANable - Support with CAnable / CandleLight / Klipper firmware - 3-pin screw terminal: C
How much do you pay for a roll of this polymaker asa in the US/Canada?
depends
buy from their website
amazon or their website
So it’s £40 here
28.99 for 1 canada