#Ender 5 Plus - Mercury 1 (Classic) with Stealth Burner and New Enclosure Project
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also i think the build area will be reduced to high 200s
I can see that, yeah
correct
I think any answers are going to come with time and testing, tbh
But I like the concept a lot still
Definitely won't replace CoreXY, but it's not for every application
Right, I'm checking my brain out for the day. š
honestly once i understood the accordion i was seeing a benefit
I like the corexy
same here, need to intall these parts on the V0
I got some goodies in today. More on Tuesday/Wednesday
voron
Yeah that wonāt be a problem, works fine š
ok cool
Whereās your t0 man?!
Pt 1000
is that the best hotend ever manufactured youāre holding ?!
No
?
(I'm being silly about it)
It stiffens the block
There's a patent on some form or fashion of the standoffs, i believe
They donāt mention it so they can avoid patent issuesā¦.
They include the screws just donāt ship pre installed
Lol, right
So...best hot end for the money ever, then? š
Do you know the spec on those bolts?
I had to go to the dark web to find this out
Wait how did you get the v6 adapter bolts out
They include them in the box
Unscrew from underneath
two screws
u think I kept the box? š
I took the v6 adapter off
But the bolts hit the heartbreak
Oh. I left them in after.
so did I
lol
They are m2.5 bhcs
length by any chance?
One sec
I have like every size in front of me rn
my b
Nice
That should be it
Donāt worry guys Iām not this organized either when Iām building my printers
This is at work
I clean after I finish a project
And sometimes I tell people to go grab me a specific bolt so they need to be able to find it
Or else Iāll have to go get it
So thinks are clean for like 3 days a year
Lol
Thatās possible?
Hoe do you finish a project
Makes sense
Not sure I understand the phrase
Agile approach? You mean add more block chain?
No
I can not avoid feature creep because I keep seeing cool mods
I have a set feature set for my M1
After itās done, I start loading into GitHub, then do printer 2
Then publish
This is how I finished my M1. I didn't look at the other stuff until I was almost done.
Iād have to finish the wiring to call my merc finished
I almost got scoped creeped by can bus
Ditto
But I am already wired up
can bus is goated
agree, but everything is wired already
great future upgrade though and will do if i go tri-stepper
plus tap
that will be r1
wth
yes š
damn i dont have the cable chain mount
Just finished putting in Dragon HF heatbreak and putting back together in merc 1.1
Now I need to print adxl mount for SB
@shell wolf that patent is just Cartesian ready for an awd like upgrade, donāt let the everything outside the chamber distract you.
Itās hello kitty themed but I havenāt figured out how to do a cutout of HK yet
Since it has continuous lines that would cut some parts of the logo from others
Ok
Too much detail maybe, have you considered standalone printed or laser etched logos?
U think I got a laser ??
On the print head I have the logo just āengravedā but I wanted to be able to see whatās behind this part
Hey vengeful, so building your enclosure is a 10 pack of 500mm extrusions, printed ABS, and the plexiglass and coroplast panels?
Pretty much, but also the 2 meters of din rails
just got some 10x15 drag cables in waiting to install them this week for the ender 5 plus ....slowly building merc kit
Just need a enclose/ skirt and ill be good
Emergency board swapā¦..
I need this MCU
Working on the ender 5 plus
Printing has started back up
Hi, is there an E5+ step file without enclosure but with Stealthburner available somewhere?
You can use the default merc 1.1 files with stealthburner š
Hello there. One Question about hiwin rails.
thanks for the info, but what I'm talking about is the technical dimensions using the MO version
No, move it closer to the stepper tower
You need space for the tensioner to move
Can you Show me your space? Thanks
You probably want to drop by #1006498377938255922 for this. But those rails can pretty much be touching the stepper towers. For examples check some of the other build logs.
Ok after a full 2 days of rewiring a v0 and printing parts to replace temporary pla parts I hit a big milestone. The top hat design works!
love that positive latching action
That is absolutely sick in all the ooey gooey good kind of ways.
Looks awesome. Rebuild my printer. Hopefully soon I can build the printer like that
Awesome build.
@naive swan what rate of shrinking gotta account for abs?
I'mma model stuff and ur good with cad
it depends on the object and dimension
assuming you are tuning your filament to a specific em(mine is 93%), you start setting certain thresholds. i.e.
3mm hole is 3.4mm
5mm hole is 5.2mm
two objects that need to be sandwiched together(1 inserts to other like a slot) i reduce the dimensions by .25mm
i dont have a specific rule, and all my designs are abs, no idea what they would do in pla
Some of that hole fun is the STL conversion and then reconversion to arcs.
I have similar rules and design for both PLA and ABS.
holes also have different tricks like filets of .5 on the build plate and recessed holes have a chamfer of 45degress
also i use filets of 2mm as a minimum
Really? I don't go below 0.8, otherwise it's a chamfer
on all non joining surfaces
its a design choice
Ahhh, I see what you mean
more for standardization
voron uses chamfers of 2mm alot but it causes problems on certain models
when i design things
so filets tend to just work
i tried 4mm chamfers on long vertical lines but it caused so many issues with holes being intersected that i gave up on that
Yeah, that's a pretty wide chamfer
I usually avoid larger than 3mm chamfers
big stuff = fillet
sorry i meant 4mm filets
Ahhh
Almost ready for install
it was supposed to go in this weekend but my other printer decided to die on me
how will you seal the space between hinges?
Well my z couldnāt hold the weight,lol
thin foam strip
something like this
3/4" wide x 1/16" thick tape (approx. 3/32" thick including foam adhesive.
Striped North-South magnetic field (1/8" pole pitch) .
0.297lbs of pull force per cm length (0.166lbs/cm2).
PE self-adhesive foam.
Tape is black colored on magnetic face.
This easy to cut MagFlexĀ® magnetic tape effortlessly sticks onto variety of surfaces, including man...
i try to make better seal with this tape š on doors
they have to oposit slim steal tape to other side
I have this one to side panels.
probably to much work, since single sided foam does the same job (also the foam mounts to the frame not the panel)
oh this is just for the doors
its already pretty close, you dont really need a seal
and if it is a concern then negative pressure can solve it
sorry i missed this, sure
lol ur goo
Hi, I can get an answer...Thanks
It's not supported anymore.
functional thing and not supported
yes. thats how stuff works that discontinued
just a guess, nothing more and a bad belief
new merc parts are smaller and stronger and also optimized for the belt path of the EVA toolhead
yea and the cad isn't gonna be released for a while
golden old version
not an e5+ but here you go
you will need to combine the 2
I don't understand why you are posting the old version here!
?? M1Clasic is old version ,M1.1 doesnt support SB ,SB work but its not supported.
Don't use the new version, it didn't work for me. Thanks for the responses, no result
@weak elbow, not sure what you want. I am building an M1 Classic.
You know very well where I'm going, hence the reaction. I was only interested in the exact dimensions of the holes for the gantry so that I could make a light version of the AL profile and possibly verify the belt guide in the SB version. I can find everything else.
@weak elbow I don't owe you anything... read the thread
I think heās just using the stock m1 x joints though ?
For gantry holes you just find the cad for whatever length rail youāre using ..
dude is tryna get from a build log details ....
I think he believes i have the step for the 1.1, which i dont have access to....
Dont hide it from us , We know you redraw it from .stl over night š
i could do it by taking the profiles and extruding, but that goes against the owners wishes
@naive swan Looks like the MIC 6
It is, at least thatās what the Fabreeko site says
@naive swan Yes I have one too
I am hoping to install it tomorrow
Since I have printed all the red parts I need for now
@naive swan yea im waiting on some part..Possiable to this week to print some of your STL's for you design this weekend
IF HE EVER RELEASES THEM
yep
Weekend may be too soon
Remember every part has to be printed and fitted
@naive swan yep .. I'm waiting on nema 14 motor
14?
@naive swan hopefully it will be here by thursday or friday
I thought we used 17
@naive swan stealthburner
Oh ok
@naive swan installed 3do nozzle cam today on the stealth very tight fit
Nice, mine just shipped
@naive swan I tapped cable down as mounting it ...very thin cable
Did you cave and buy the usb cable?
@naive swan yes
@naive swan also printed this https://www.printables.com/model/377843-grille-mod-of-3do-nozzle-camera-mount-for-voron-st#preview
I talked to turtle and he said the connector looks like the bl touch connector
Can you confirm?
@naive swan yes
Thank you!
@naive swan Welcome
Awesome model, I am using it
With a slight design change 
Oh yes they included the step!
@naive swan Left hand turn right off the cam a very very tight fit. I put tape on it so I wouldn't tear the ribbon cable right of the cam. I have seen a few ppl rip it right off
@naive swan this one is the one I printed . Sorry https://www.printables.com/model/381456-hex-remix-mod-of-3do-nozzle-camera-mount-for-voron/files Step file included also
@naive swan Didnt print the hex though
I like the grill version
ok
@naive swan get your mic6 Installed?
doing now, lol
i had to get new 4mm flatheads....
Test fit is good
installing the Pom anti backlash nuts while i am it, hopefully they can handle the weight
wow polishi3d really dropped the ball on the pom anti-backlash, they really should have threaded holes. installing the nut to the fastener was almost impossible since the spring is in the way
time to wire to the ssr
Ground connector solved
i have dat
yee
wait in that case I want it back
lol
I appreciate that you are practicing good oral hygiene during assembly. š
lol, yeah i just noticed that
i need a trash can on this side of my lab
Hehe
It's a nice lab, tho
I have "the office with printers" and "the other office with printers". One is chaos and the other has a couch. š¤·āāļø
im looking to remove the carpet so i can get a desk top cnc in here and pull my laser back from the garage
the carpet is gym type/slash outdoor carpet
very stiff no padding
but i do have an external exhaust in here
also i can pipe compressed air in here
without the noise drawbacks
Just need to throw the build plate on and crimp the bed therm on. Prints start today after another nap
Not yet but the room does not share any walls with the rest of the house
Itās alive and ready for tuning
damn i really need to learn how to edit videosš
add it to the to do list
CAN YOU HOME SLOWER ?
ahh true
well the bed is working.....shit scares the crap out of me
1100w draw exactly
2 mins to warm up to 110c
Is that fluidd or skinned mainsail
fluidd
its what i learned first
i had mainsail on in the beginning but gave up
damn this bed is way too heavy for my z steppers
it flys down as soon as power is removed from the motors
new screws with TR8x2 ?
i have integrated lead screw steppers TR8x8
i just messure orginal TR from E+ ,its TR8x4
yeah
i switched to 500mm leadscrew steppers for the distance i was missing once i mounted the steppers outside of the heated chamber. I was hoping the pom anti backlash nuts would help, they did not....
rly ,good point , I have to check my order š
Damn the connector is even smaller than I anticipatedā¦..
Itās definitely not the same connector as the bl touch
is there AI in camera to check line width ?
I see it on bamboo, when something like that come to nozzle came I will definetlly install it.
So buy the cable. Or if u have micro sold3rjng iron and are confident just solder the housing to another housing lol
no its simpler than that
it is exactly the same connector
5 pin is 7.35 on this datasheet i came back with the same number
just need to find it state side
could be worse
looks like it is used in drones
awesome
Yeah I think I have some JST-SH around from a past project. At least itās not JST-ZH
Is that harder to crimp or just harder to find?
Asking because ZH is 1.5mm
i have zh
sh apperantly is too hard to crimp
it seems like a jst alternative to micro usb
either way i get them on saturday
so i will test then
by the way...screw level took over 20 attempts....
both pid tunes are done
levels are good
z-offset is done
bed mesh is done
time to do filament tuning
You're zooming along
i did have to rewire the extruder
but i am tuning pa right now
unfortunately i will have to stop after this test to go to an appointment
Looks like my offset needs some work
live tune it!
nozzle cam?
yep
that sucks, what happened?
dont know
cant see the connector too small
cant phone camera cant focus thatr small
i spent too long on a script at work today.... im wiped(sorry I have only slept 3 hrs in the last 2 days)
that cam went to the garbage
You should have let fabreeko know
I found with a microscope there was a bent wire i nthe connector
board is getting warm but no cam is detected
So im sure it has a short
i might order another one if they come out with a better connection that isn't so fragile
contact who u ought with
cable chain breaks wires
need to make an umbilical and then put that in the cable chain lol
nah going for a can
i messed up because i put it in a sleave first
it only fails from x 0-100
rest of the plate is fine
lol
Iāll just use the right side for now
Looks like I am going umbilical while I resolve The wire break issues, my klicky wire has failed twice. Tried silicone then ptfe. I will use umbilical while I wait for revision 1
Right now my goal is to get this running so I can I finish the initial design testing
My brother has had 2 wires with internal breakage with his voron 2.4, from something I saw a few weeks ago this seems to be a bit more common than expected.
turns out i used the wrong gauge on my fans and endstop 26 vs 24 and my dragchains are closed vs open which also meant that my id was 10x10 vs 10x11. So i have the new parts on the way and will be up and running by wednesday
Hello there
One Question
How do you solve this?
Or how do you Set the endstop?
And which carriadge i need? Stls? I use the stealthburner
On the stealth burner you have 3 options.
Install the x end stop on the stealth burner.
Use the stl for the x mount for m1 build
Use sensorless homing
You can get that from here #1060069252637413386 message
That is the Merc 1 step file
you will use voron skirt ?
Yes but only after modifications
I already start modife
Up and running again
Time for the home stretch
It passed the test for loading the plate
Started getting some warping, so panels are going on first
I was able to sleep through the night and no warpingā¦.
Noice. That enclosure is amazing.
it will be better once i finish printing everything
Soon(TM)
I empathize. Just finished printing six 0.25lb struts for my print desk. 8" long on a 235x235 bed... I'm very relieved I don't have to wake up and check for warping anymore.
(Now I have to install them, though...)
i would say my only problem with this printer is going to be the bed drops like a brick once the motors turn off
What lead screws are you using?
tr8x8
r1 is going to be fun
its basically a drop in solution(slight modification needed on the front steppers)
Is that a stock bed, then?
I see what you mean. š¦
Four starts on each lead screw is a lot of outlet for potential energy.
Just put some red loctite on your Pom nuts 
the good news is because the e5+ uses a 2040 up front i can upgrade the trident motion system to mgn12h without changing the extrusions or compromising the enclosure(due to clearance issues)
uses mgn9
I didnāt know the trident used mgn12s until after I had printed most of my parts lol
I should check the BOM better when doing parts bin builds
do you mean mgn9?
Yes
oh ok
I have extra 12s and just assumed it used those
Yeah
put a 2040 on the front corners and you solve that issue
Iām planning on getting some steel sheet laser cut to space the panels and make the frame ultra rigid
ok, i had to deal with it on my gantry and just did some build out
thick foam tape would work too probably too
Might go belted z with my trident tho
does it really stick that far off? Maybe my calipers are off lol
How wide is an Mgn12 carriage?
and m1.1 for that matter
Not at a pc rn or is just check my cad
It's over 20mm for sure. Like 26?
Since the mount pattern is 20x20, it has to be
27mm
Ah so 3.5 either side
Interesting
Might have to weld my own steel spacer panels, SCS might fry my wallet trying to get 1/4 panel
Guess Iām gonna have to fire up fusion
maybe i went overboard with the 6mm build out but i guess i was trying to be safe when i test fit and designed my spacers
thatās probably the easiest part of the whole build to make parametric tho
any idea on release ??!!
assume youāre gonna release the cad right?
good man
I'm excited about that latch.
and one section is not done
do I look like someone who uses finished products
that is about to be fully tested š¤
If itās not a WIP experimental design I donāt want it
yes
I mean, we're all using cartoon avatars, lol
isn't Doug Japanese?
ngl I thought that was that bald kids dad
lol
Calliou
lol
who is it šš
Doug Funnie, lol. 90s cartoon character on Nickelodeon.
I had to look up Calliou, though
before my time š
Wasnāt alive in the 90s 
faints
ngl i am still laughing about Calliou's Dad
You missed an entire era of half-baked and "it'll do" clothing. Right up your engineering style alley! š
The whole clothing era was "ripped? GOOD."
Oh no, he gone.
alright this was a good break, i need to finish this SQL for work
is that a stock ender 5 to the right
stock ender 5+
I'm so fascinated by those latches. Although the tensioner design is a very close second.
My enclosure latches are just basic swing latches with a block to stop them from swinging too far.
i wasnt thinking about this solution but maybe it was much better choise as hydra, just becouse part supply.
@naive swan Looking awesome
yeah hydra has its parts complications
after some thought on this i may change it at a later revision
Latch or tensioner?
the top lid
im thinking the lid should just be the 2020 extrusions and the acrylic panel
have it hinge independently
im having to make a ton of compromises to attach the top hat side panels
Iām getting severe under extrusion
Cht nozzle time
Quick install
Also going to try some non Capricorn
Iām worried that may be part of my problem
since i was already under the hood i retightned the belts
very nice sensorless homing now
found the reason for the under extrusion was the flathead screw on the cw2 was pushed out. so my rotation distance is good now
now for klippy z offset tuning, check my EM and pressure advance
Over tightened the belts
not gates belts?
meh, thats not that big of a deal
Did this last week. Wondered why I kept getting worse and worse layer shifting...
unfortunately its a fine line to find a good medium. it prints just fine when the belts feel loose. i think its because the belts are huge.
That would make a great deal of sense
one thing i am really regretting is sensorless homing. i did some sensitivity tuning on it again. so i hope that helps
I hut the pins off my steppers sadly
Gates belts are pog
based on the belts being this big i am not seeing them being a must have. I have gates on everything else.
Really? That's unfortunate. Both axes?
I was considering going to sensorless. I have a friend who loves it.
Just the y. after some testing i find that you need a flat surface to hit when zeroing.
and you also needed to slow down, enough that its unbearable
im just putting in the switches
on the V0 its fine but on 370x360 its rough
especially since my print start macro homes 3 times
Ready to start the rear panel and reprint the rear stepper mounts
They have to be reprinted since I added a lot of heat insert holes and some dimensions needed to be tweaked
Also the top hat front panel clips will be reprinted since my last accent color run was on my V0 before it blew up
great 16hrs on the rear steppers
282grams
No warping! Hopefully Iām not jinxing myselfā¦.
i set my em to 95
looks like its going to be 93
i will do a quick calibration later
look awesome
little tweeks today, so far i am impressed with the performance. My next goal is to get the endstops installed and get the chamber thermistor installed. also only one gap at the back of the top hat
happy printing ...looks good
rear top hat panel mounts are done and printing now!
i will be fully enclosed as of tomorrow
Z Drag chain and custom sexbolt mounts and bed Wagu mounts next
Yow. Looking good.
Fully enclosed!
I dont expect this solution. how to solve gap between hings. š
the gap is small, but foam strip will do the trick
@naive swan how did you get the arrows on klipper to turn red ..like it mine are orange
you should be able to change it here
I have the Zero G theme installed but don't have the same settings to change it
Aww found it
Any idea why I am getting under extrusion after I have been running for more than 4 hrs?
Only happens on long flat prints
Short prints are fine
My em and first layer are perfect
Just having flow issues
I guess it could be worse
Just very annoying with all the tuning that went into this
Hey @naive swan. Your work is beautiful man! Any plans to release your files to the wild?
So the cable chain is shredding my wire
2 can bus solutions on the way
Letās hope my work around works
Eek. Yeah, I wondered about the PET in the cable chain. I'd never seen it before.
(Thought it looked cool, too. Womp womp. š¦ )
I just got the sb2040 can bus mounted in the sb
found a modified door for the 3do nozzle cam control for sb
yep i ordered the sb 2040 and the ebb36 just in case
cool
I almost ordered this one but i saw it had some design issues
https://biqu.equipment/en-de/products/bigtreetech-ebb-sb2209-can-v1-0?_pos=1&_psq=can&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=40214282731618
The EBB SB2209/SB2240 CAN is an extruder breakout board designed by the 3D printing team of Shenzhen BIQU Technology Co., Ltd. for Voron StealthBurner, which can communicate via USB or CAN port, greatly simplifying wiring. Using this cabling solution will make your printer more aesthetically pleasing and protect the print head from working with ...
i went with the fly sb2040
I have the mellow version and the btt version
Havenāt installed the btt since I donāt feel like crimping those wires lol
what connector is it?
i shied away once i saw they were tiny, dont want another nozzle cam situation
I have the mellow version
@naive swan I was looking closure at you ender 5 plus ....Do you have the STl's for the feet only. I just got some LDO motors for the dual z's and I need to raise the printer ?
Hi Mike, on this photohttps://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/1060069252637413386/1077716600347697172/IMG_4023.jpg you can see standart Trident feets
Yep, those are stock trident feet. The stock ZeroG feet would work exactly the same š
The 38mm version that is
Thanks
I use rubber feets with suction cap š
What make is this?
that is a fabreeko bed
Awsome cheers, your build looks absolutely fantastic by the way. Well done! You have really inspired me to do such a build, Iāll looking into it all right now, did you say you had listed the files of your parts anywhere?
i am working on the bom right now, but i have been bogged down by issues on the extruder
the files are almost ready for release
right now all i can say is plan for canbus from the outset
Okay that cool, looking forward to seeing the BOM, but I hope you fix your extruder issues. What are the issues? And is that why your trying to use can bus?
The cable chain is too tight with this many wires. You eventually get wire failures. In my case I am getting a partial wire failure
Ahh I see, so the can bus will decrease amount of wires.
I have thought about doing this, but Iām using the Eva 3 with a 4028 fan and need 12 volts, also I have a EZ mini probe.
I read you got the Btt can bus, have you installed it yet?
no install yet, i have a ebb36+btt utoc and the flysb2040+mellow utoc on the way from china
i also have an ebb36 and the fystec utoc coming from amazon coming in tomorrow
no idea if the fystec utoc will be fine but we will see
Wow so your going to be doing some testing then. Youāve really got you work cut out š good job with all you work so far, Iām going to use your z endstop bracket to š
it lines up perfectly, but i have no idea why its not being recognized by my skr2....must be all these klicky configs
Canāt wait to start building your enclosure also, printing abs on the big plate is my dream š
Have you got the pull up resistor set?
i wanted to finish printing all the parts and get some hours in, but the cable chain is a huge design flaw for the cad and stl drop
no its on an endstop pin though
My endstop pin in config has a pull up resistor
Also i I wonāt be using a cable chain like yours, i have the Eva 3 mod with the linear rail on top of the gantry
its klicky, i just migrated my x and y to the same pins and they work fine
yeah i am making some tweeks for the pc6 glands on the enclosure and toolhead
Okay, so it must not need a pull up. In that case do you know if you have a diag pin related to that endstop pin?
So they can mount to the rear center plate along with reverse Bowden and the chamber thermistor
i do not, especially on the z
i was using sensorless on x and y for some time
Test the z endstop In your y endstop and run the m119 command to check operation
i forgot this
š
[homing_override]
axes: z
set_position_z: 0
gcode:
G90
G0 Z5 F600
G28 X Y
XY Location of the Z Endstop Switch
Update X and Y to your values (such as X157, Y305) after going through
Z Endstop Pin Location Definition step.
G0 X-10 Y-10 F3600
G28 Z
G0 Z10 F1800
damn klicky does it for you but you need this as well i guess?
Ohh it wasnāt the hardware then
not sure why it affects the endstop recognition
I see your running the old mounts x, y stepper mounts.. do you still have the files?
Iām using the new style and have broke two already, they are built with too little material
well they are all custom
x is from the m1, m1.1 xmounts will not work with the top mount rail(maybe)
the rear steppers experimental(to say the least)
and built into the enclosure
i found out what the problem is, the stepper driver jumpers disable the endstop pins on the board
[dawning look]
lol, also i think i found my underextrusion issue... im overcooking the abs+ and clogging the nozzle
Ouch. š¦ What brand ABS+?
esun.... ijust realized it happens everytime i switch to fire engine red
Do you use cleaning filament ever?
It's worth a try. Particularly when switching filament types.
I'm still printing through the 7kg I got for $100 from Atomic. Short roll sales!
But after that, yeah, everyone but PolyMaker that's quality is just too expensive.
esun has too many deals to walk away but im done with them
I use DevilDesign ,I already try some eSun it wasnt best choice what have done
I've never been too impressed with the stuff I've used from them.
I mean, the prices also hooked me a few times, too.
i never had wrapping problems until i started using it outside of my V0, that was all i needed to drop them
Last time safe my ,installed Tap I was running 0.6 lower on first layer
yeah i installed mech so i have double protection
i have a beacon on the way so there is also a reason to just go ahead and change now
also my hotend block was backwards....
meybe some issue with skiping steps ?
[tmc2209 extruder]
uart_pin: PE1
interpolate: False
run_current: 0.35
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
I have moon pancake
i have a moon as well
[tmc2208 extruder]
uart_pin: PC6
interpolate: true
run_current: 0.7
hold_current: 0.4
sense_resistor: 0.110
stealthchop_threshold: 0
switching to false makes it worse
is it possible that i killed my extruder?
holdcurrent make it warmer ,its recomanded dont use if I am right
to much current
i agree
the problem gets worse the longer i run it
so heat could be it
cw2 was good, i took it apart to check
twice
new hardware as well
i have another set as well and a asa cw2 ready as well
how so?
i have a band new ldo and off brand that i am tempted to install right now just to eliminate that possibility
you can check wiring if you think you over heat it.
wiring is my go to but now i dont know
i was checking it realy simple š i just take A loop on stepper ,then B loop = if R same i try same on connector on driver side with connected motor.
you mean continuity check, yes i did that
its fine but my issue is intermittent
I think I figured it out
It goes away if I go slow
The carriage block is melted
The mount
I have some backups
It melted because the block and heater were at the back
ASA time?
What hotend are you using? Seems like the heat break isnāt working?
Is asa really better than abs+?
Would you say it is any easier to print?
I find it easier to print, and yes itās better for 3d printer parts
BBL is correct. ASA has a higher heat deflection temperature, so it might not have deformed as Vengeful's part did. It's also easier to print, as I'm discovering.
Okay, well thatās interesting, what brand do you guys find to be good quality?
I'm printing some off-brand US distributor. It's not that great. PolyMaker has ASA and their quality is generally good all around. It's also more affordable than some of the other equally good brands that sell ASA.
I like Polymaker atm, missing a few colors
Yeah, wish they had some more variety in the ABS/ASA department. Atomic has me covered there for ABS.
ASA is more grease / oil resistant too, which I think included the various off gasses that are a byproduct of printing ASA/ABS
I like inland for my ABS atm
Best ABS I have ever printed is 3D-Fuel. It's an ABS+, but man was that fun to print. Soooo expensive, though.
thanks
Recap time:
The melted SB + klicky mount was caused by my material selection and the fact that i mounted the heater block and heater towards the back --- should have been towards the front.
The overtightened belts exacerbated the issue causing the mount to warp during usage and eventually giving out when one of the belts overstretched.
Next problem i caused was; i only replaced one belt since the other seemed fine. Even though, i measured both belts for length; there was no guarantee they would stretch evenly.
This explains why i am only getting this issue on some diagonals and at high speeds
Morale of the story: experience matters.....
I spent this entire time chasing a new cable break which was previously caused by not installing the chains in the unlocked position. i changed that after the rewire.
still going can bus, dont get me wrong. However they will run through the chain along with the usb cables for the nozzle cam and the beacon
@naive swan I'll be installing sb2040 with 3do nozzle cam usb in a sleeve via chains hopefully this weekend. Found a 3do nozzle cam sb door on printables to hold the external 3do nozzle cam.
yeah i was hoping to use my sb2040 as well but it uses an pcb where the 3do pcb mounts so for this printer i will just go with the ebb36
Might work with the sb2040
i think that is BTT version of of the sb2040
the one that uses the same connectors as the 3do cam
New belt time
I am ready, utoc gets here in the morning
Going with option 2 since I want to keep my chains
Option one is backup if everything goes to shit
Option 2
What thickness coroplast and clear sheet did you use?
coroplast was 4mm and acrylic is ~2.5mm
Cheers, i couldnāt find any 4 mm coroplast here, Iāll get 2mm and glue 2 pieces together
i got mine from Michaels(arts and crafts store)
Feels like this is going to be a chore
No youāll be fine, it will be worth it when itās done
acm panels or abs panels ? which better ?
honestly neither, coroplast provides more insulation at 1/10th of the price
for looks, black acrylic, hands down
acm is just more rigid
@naive swan ok I was looking at options
understand, i just realized how much better coroplast was when i started this build
yea ...need a set for ender 5 plus and voron 2.4r2
yea
back panel corplast, or acm. Sides arcylic if see through, other wise coroplast then acm in that order
basically acm is thinner and about as capable or less when it comes to heat
also its basically a heatsink
if exterior temps are cold then you will see worse performace from acm
yeah the change in temp is what is the problem with warping
yep
card board works as well
I dont have that problem right now but only printing small parts
yep, its when your z goes over 5mm that you start noticing problem
best way to tell if you have a problem with warping is when you start getting loose bits of filament all over your build plate
before i fully enclosed i would see it after 15-20mm
sometimes the part looks fine the you check the dimensions and you notice the height is off
sometimes by a little bit other by a lot depends on the amount of stuff on the build plate
v0 are nice
i get my v0.2 upgrade parts soon
nice
yea your ender 5 plus looks really sharp
I need to find the legs that you are using
I need to raise the ender 5 plus
i like to raise it since i have the ldo 48mm motors
k
corner a x2
corner b x2
zero g logo ?
yes
Dahulix version on the left original 350mm on the right
yea big space o nthe right
yep he did a great job on the splice
he redid the 350mm skirts
awesome
i just havent loaded them into the model
gotcha
I did see the skirt you have on yours looks good
3.5 hours for the feet not bad atr all for all 4
Well work comes early..be back on tomorrow Im sure
ucan is is connected and configured
ebb36 has firmware loaded
just need to wire the toolhead and run my 4 wires
Used CANBUS before?
I have a sb2040 But might get the BTT version
New Zero G design. Nice
Make it a Dual color design
@naive swan stl ? I'll print it ounce I get the trident legs printed
@naive swan of course if you don't care to share it !!!!
no
good luck, but it's worth it
it has been a lot of info to go through but it has been somewhat easy... just redoing the tool head sucks
Ick, yeah
lol i am working on it
Hey, qq to those around...do microswitches use M2 or M2.5? I think it's M2 self tapping, right?
Dunno why I just asked this in a build log, but here I am.
ju can over drill them with 3mm drill or make M3 thread
@raven widget normally I'd go for that. I'm actually trying to go for small screws so save space here, though.
Just don't know which, heh
you want go with D2F-01F ?
@twilit edge its M2, i bought a bag of hex socket M2x10 self tapping and they are very useful
hands down a good surplus item to have
Might be stealing them off of some extra limit switches I have. bought a couple different styles in bulk.
they are good for joining printed pieces together
Ohhhh...and small so not visible
i put them on my dogs airtag holder
also used alot for din rail mounts
since those wear or are easy to break. that way you only reprint the clip and not the hole mount
make sure you get them in allen not phillips or something else
i havent seen any torx but the use cases for that are minimal
I use this for some PCBs they was great in plastic š
BHCS = less depth SHCS = Less width
if I need less depth Iām countersinking that bitch and itās gonna be nice and flush
nothing is more satisfying than a perfectly counter sunk flat head fastener
I call this fastener a flanged button head
if your part is thick enough, i guess there is always FHCS. But i only ever find SS not black steel
this one isnt flanged but i know what you mean.
I'll confess...I don't like those super low profile screws.
I got some and they don't conceal well.
Today I found out that the supplier sent my heated bed Mic6 2 days ago, he played me for 2 months that it is on the way.
@naive swan how is the can bus? did you get the btt installed?
and are you intending on using a PT temp sensor instead of the normal NTC
i have a pt but for now i am leaving the ntc100k on
almost done just need to solder extensions
i was reading the PT is more accurate, im thinking of ordering can bus since you twisted my arm š
ill have to see if i have any of my student loan left over this month lol
but do i need the U2C board aswell? how does it actually all connect, i presume the usb c and then a 24v supply
i got the fysech one in the meantime, it was preloaded, so that was good
its like $20 on amazon
cheaper from ali
u dont need the utoc too
just in case @vocal terrace with the amount of s#$% that has gone wrong
im running an skr2 so i think i do need it
?
oh dont
that can't really do proper canbus
I have usb - canbus adapter which is better
thats a utoc is it not?
dont not needed
PT1000 is ok without max31865 too. it just makes its temp have correct degree start
U2C=UTOC=UCan?
u should get a octopus or spdier for canbus
sure
The board doesn't have the proper setup conpared to those noards for canbus
it will work but like the other boards were designed with it as a principe
agree, but that is fine
don't use the usb most boaerds u can get will havethe can wire
i have can support on 1 board only and im not buying 3 more boards
lol
it also means that 5 stepper boards can then support 6 steppers
I'm gonna be setting up my UTC on my V2.4 when it finally comes in. BTT didn't put me on preorder. but now its a preorder
so stupid
Yea I thought that initially but didn;'t mind the etra board
Hold up did u modify the turtle files for PG7 wire strain?
for me it just made sense since it allows me to keep these older 5 stepper boards in service
fyi hartk has CW2 mount
yea. I just convert mine to E3
i have 2 mount options
welp hartk has a M12 is the connector its cool
pg7 or cable chain
I'm just using zipies for my eva
don't allow cable chain thats stupid
like really stupid
pg7 < cable chain weight
@shell wolf I think u would like
I regret getting siler.
they did a shit machining job looks like theres some spots
my SB2240 I'mma try opr make a canbus mount for pg7
is an all metal orbiter?
I didn't realize how choncy after
bruh. its a vzz-hextrudort
ohh