#jumping in
88 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
They're not extra, they're for the future. Or... Just in case you drop and lose 150 of them
Great progress on the build 🙂
One step forward, two steps back. Tried the dual z mod before and had problems, never bothered to figure it out. Gonna give it another go.
Got a lot done today. Added some frame bracing and squared everything up. Installed the dual z mod. Mounted the tool head with extruder and hot end. Started the wiring. Did a stepper buzz and one of the new steppers isn’t behaving itself. I’ll work on that tomorrow.
Yesterdays progress was decent. Got wiring connected and loomed. Function check, it knows where home is. Modded the dual z setup to allow a few more millimeters travel up because the front bar relocate blocked travel.
Fired up a test print today and had terrible layer shifting. Tightened everything and still shifted. Turned up the vref for x and y and it got worse. Searched discord and found an article about the stock board drivers overheating. Turned the vref down and had a successful print. Needs all the tuning steps but it’s pushing plastic.
Nice work
reminds me of the issues I had from removing a needed line in the klipper config when i tried out a mellow fly gemini board
🤣
Thanks. Maybe tomorrow or Tuesday I’ll go through the Ellis tune
every layer change it shifted, was fun troubleshooting that one
That’s one psychedelic error. Love it lol
was a great overhang test
lol. I’m gonna replace the stock board, and later will add hydra. I’m sure I’ll have plenty of fun errors to suss out.
What kinda speeds and accels are you pushing? I maxed out at 175mm/s with 4k accel. That was cranking like 1a on the vref with active cooling. You've gotta be missing steps if your drive gear isn't slipping.
Speeds were 120. I don’t know accel offhand. It may be set too high from when I ran input shaper on the stock ender 5 pro. When I lowered the vref it immediately printed successfully after like six failed prints.
But still shifted, right? What's your travel speed?
I think 250
Too fast
The same gcode printed on my Aquila fine. What travel would you suggest?
Way down... Just to start. Like 150-175. Set accel in klipper to 3k. Just to get a stable footing.
The shifting stopped after lowering the vref. I got a fair print considering no tuning has been done, not even bent tension
I’m gonna go through the Ellis tuning guide over the next few days
NVM what I said lol
lol I appreciate the input.
but like Dustin said, its been found by other users that the stock drivers start having issues once you go past 170ishmm/s. So would be best to limit your travel speed (Velocity) in your config to 170
once you upgrade to an aftermarket board with 2209s, you can crank that up much higher.
Are 2209 the recommended drivers? Is there a recommended main board to support hydra?
They are the most common, and what most use
I have a octopus 1.1 in my 5 plus, and octopus pro in my 5 pro. Going to try the latest Fysetc spider board soonish... Just need to finish writting up the config and make the switch
I was thinking octopus pro
if you use the link in the BOM, you can get it from Ali with 8 2209 drivers for a pretty good price.
much cheaper than buying locally
Sweet. Thanks for the heads up
ok this was fun...not. ran input shaper and got some wacky results
try going up to 120, then 125
re checked belt tension, tightened everything and no change. i have a filament sensor on the hotend and thought it was flopping around so i took it off and got minor change but not substantial, and results still problematic
I know my 5 plus is running around 127, cannot recall what my 5 pro is set to
i started watching this video 8 times and he indicates these results may show binding https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M-yc_XM8sP4
This video is supposed to be a brief overview on what the input shaper graphs can tell us. It is the first video of a series of videos which will give a more in depth view on the kinematic system and input shaping in Klipper.
As always: feel free to jump to those parts, that help you with your problems:
00:00 Intro
00:57 What we can learn from...
I had to watch that 2 or 3 times, he doesnt really cover the issues very well. Just flys through them
greased my x carriage and saw a significant change, but i dont think im good yet, this is where i am now
i also increased tension during that time, im not certain where im at but i think they are close but not perfect, def tighter than 110
none yet
I mean adxl
adxl345
and where is it mounted?
that should be a okay mounting setup for getting results... Ideally you want to be close to the nozzle location. But that doesnt explain why x y and z are all over the place
having every axis but the one you are tuning spike, is odd
there was some binding, i could barely feel it and grease moved the needle. after work ill grease some more, and hit the y carriage
if its still wonly ill consider a teardown and rebuild to look if i missed something or if something is loose or too tight, etc
I found I got much cleaner results using the newer Fysetc input shaper
along with Dutchdudes nozzle mount for it
theres a new mobo and can in the not too distant future. so my goal is to get this respectable and within norms, then a major change
really, thats disappointing
this was the Fysetc board, same printer
yeah, I have been pretty happy with the fysetc setup, its also much easier to setup
just need to add a config file, and include line
plug it in via usb, reboot klipper
and run it
ill check it out
no longer have to sit there and count pins, tripple check its plugged in properly
Fysetec Portable input shaper integrates the RP2040 chip with the ADXL345 to simplify the input shaper installation and uses USB C wiring to USB port in the Raspberry PI. Based on popular RP2040 chip Portable and you can use it on multiple Klipper firmware-based 3D printer with same configuration file. Save your time.
its kinda cute, lol
dissassembled the motion, twice, lol, and celaned and rebuilt the mgn rails and got some improvement.
much better