ASA WarpingAdhesion Issues - Any Suggestions?

[dusk gazelle]

You saw the title. I’m printing Polymaker Teal ASA , and I’m running into all kinds of printing issues. I’m printing on a Prusa MK3S+ (enclosed, not actively heated) and I can’t even print the smaller stepper mount without it warping or popping off the build plate. I’ve tried on Garolite (G10/FR4) with and without gluestick, but no dice (first picture and second picture). I’ve tried completely re-calibrating the Z axis as well as the first layer, but still nothing. It behaves perfectly fine for the majority of the print, but it starts warping badly as it gets near the end (third picture). I tried switching to the stock PEI coated spring steel sheet (again, with and without gluestick) but I got nothing. My latest solution was printing on a brand-new spring steel sheet, and I got some pretty good results (fourth picture). However, it damaged the print surface and caused bubbles to form (fifth picture). I’ve read online that this goes away after some time, but I don’t want to damage it again. My current approach is using that spring steel sheet with gluestick as a release agent, which has worked out so far for the belt tension towers (sixth picture). I won’t be able to see that print until Monday morning to assess part quality/bed damage, but does anyone have advice on stopping the warping? My enclosure isn’t actively heated, but it stays at a fairly constant 33deg and I haven’t noticed any drafts inside the enclosure. I don’t know what else I could really do to improve, so any input is appreciated.

[wary kindle]

hi, I had my fair bit of tuning for ASA, never printed ASA before making the merc parts, so take my comments as it 😅 .

I have an enclosure similar to yours, not actively heated and the temps is around 35~50 degrees while printing. I end up printing asa at 270c (as hot as I would dare with my standard ender 5 hotend with a bimetal neck) and a 100c bed

I use a once pristine PEI bed, now it seems it passed some very nasty disease, but even now my asa rarely warp if I print in the center of the bed. you can take some printed part as reference" like the end stop, if you print it and the zeroG logo is too thin it means you are too close to the bed, if it warps maybe you are too far away

I only had 1 warping issue actually, and it was my bed leveling after heating had almost 1mm variance... so I can understand why

I never use any brim

[novel spoke]

Could it be your hotend fan putting off dirty air?
Also if you have ridges in between your brim passes it’s either over extrusion (my first layer randomly changed itself to 200% in prusaslicer slicer) or too close. I’ve had great luck with 260/80 for Polymaker orange and black ASA

[wary kindle]

ah, right, and no cooling, I use 10% fan after the 3rd layer. I think by default super slicer doesn’t use fan at all

[novel spoke]

I use no cooling fan

[dusk gazelle]

Thanks for the input. I’ve been printing with no part cooling fan, and i’ve tuned out brim ridges. I’ve gotten great first layers based on tests, so I don’t think that’s an issue anymore. I’ll run a temp tower off on Monday to check out what works best for me, and I’ll try a print or two with no brim. Thanks for all the help!

[wary kindle]

in my tests (breaking my parts by hands) the higher temperature the stronger the parts. so try to settle for a temp on the high end. and the bed temperature was quite important for me as well. 90c the part was not sticking as well as at 100c