Ender 5 To Mercury One.1

[solar bridge]

Lol

[frail swallow]

😆

got it

gimme ten

[proud cliff]

like, the motor can be also mounted above/below and use something like the stock y axis rods to place the pulley where it should be

stock ender 5 I mean...

[frail swallow]

A couple of people are working on that with some success.

[proud cliff]

but I can see the rear motor mounts design might be used as is, I just need to swap things around between left and right and remove some flange stacks... if only we could tension the belt somewhere else 😂

and I don't know how to use this thing,,, that' it I'm opening it in freeCAD

[frail swallow]

Green: stepper
Red: Reverse Idler
Yellow: Tensioner idler

[proud cliff]

Nice! do you think the pulley has enough grab on the belt like this?

[frail swallow]

Nope. Is this better?

[proud cliff]

yes, maybe even more, so to make a U on the pulley

[frail swallow]

Yeah, can move the tensioner idler back even more

[proud cliff]

wait a sec...

but, it's going to need a good support to keep the belt tensioned without using the extrusion

[stone valve]

what about using the whole motor mount as tensioner?

[proud cliff]

I feel the tensioner need to be on the 2020

[stone valve]

requires a completely new part

[stone valve]

put the motor on the tensioning tower

[proud cliff]

the issue is that the tensioner need to be quite symmetrical, otherwise you'd risk to bent the mount on the vertical axis during adjustment, but maybe if you have 2 M5 instead of only one

[solar bridge]

left stepper up front

justneed to move stuff

add a front bolt tab

[frail swallow]

I think the belt is backwards?

[stone valve]

oh indeed

[solar bridge]

no, its just not routed

brown is teeth, teeth out on the smooth bearings

[stone valve]

ah uses the stacks to route same way as in back

might work no?

[frail swallow]

OHHH I'm looking at the belt as is

[frail swallow]

Hrm. Okay, so what if the rear idler is movable.

Make that the tensioner and the rest fixed?

[stone valve]

I feel like that adds a lot of complexity to the design

[frail swallow]

Agreed, but I'm rolling with it because it's interesting 😁

[proud cliff]

and fragility as well

[stone valve]

moving as a whole piece sounds better

but only one screw to keep it in the frame?

I would add a second one but I don't see roon for it

[proud cliff]

also because there are constraints on the belt path once few pulleys/idlers are close together, maybe you change the efficiency by moving only one of them

[proud cliff]

maybe on the side of the extrusion

[frail swallow]

If the stepper is turned you can use that M3 screw hole for an M5 to the frame.

The m3 for the stepper that's right above the extrusion

Turn the stepper parallel to the frame

[stone valve]

the side is a good idea but printing becomes a pain

I wonder if a piece of 2040 is enough for it to fit on the side

screw an extra piece of extrusion to the side, making it a 2060

not sure if it has the correct spacing

[proud cliff]

and using an m5 screw instead of the dowel in the front flanges?

[frail swallow]

You do not want to do that. Voron switched to dowels because the threads imbalance the bearings.

[proud cliff]

ok.. m5 with the threads only at the tip than 😂

[frail swallow]

Shoulder bolts would work, yeah

I still think this is simpler. Turn the stepper 45 degrees and use that pillar (purple) for an M5

[stone valve]

do you have room to rotate it?

[proud cliff]

and you are right

[frail swallow]

It'd require some modification, but we have the STEP files now

[proud cliff]

we are speculating, we have all the room in the world :D.. I don't have that room in my printer

[frail swallow]

Ahhh, that room

I don't see this idea working on an inline enclosure like yours. @stone valve 's enclosure would work better with the walls away from the printer.

[proud cliff]

yeah :P, sorry not native, I hope you understand. I don't have that space in my printer

[frail swallow]

You're good, dude. I gotcha. 😉

If you do ever implement this, I suggest 9mm belts. That's a lot of motor on 6mm belts.

[stone valve]

new idlers as well

aka replace everything

[frail swallow]

Nothing is ever simple?

BOOO

[proud cliff]

but at that point we need to revisit the all thing, idlers and all

[stone valve]

at that point give up make a different printer that already has it

[frail swallow]

What if you put two steppers on one pulley?

[proud cliff]

I think vzbot still uses 6mm belts for awd

[frail swallow]

Shorter belt path, though. Less tension.

Each stepper is only pushing one belt across a shorter distance with one idler

[proud cliff]

I used the left rear motor and placed at the front right, so nothing is correct on the pulley/idlers and the tensioning would be on the front bar

[stone valve]

you can just mirror the back right no?

[proud cliff]

oh, you're smart!

don't know how to do that yet though

[stone valve]

everything should line up

hm maybe not the tensioner

[proud cliff]

need to go now...

the tensioner is the correct one, ideally it's the same as the stock, I'm going for a mod that you need to print one thing more and it's more or less plug and play

(a small additional bom, but that's a given)

[stone valve]

might pull up the cad for.it

[proud cliff]

So I wired up the skr mini e3 v1.2 in the backpack (since the spare V3 doesn't cooperate with can), just to discover than the tmc2209 on that board are the noisiest thing I've ever heard. They can't stand 1.41 amps either.... I brought this to myself going through the reshuffling without testing each component first (if I tried before the spare skr e3 mini v3 with can... anyway). But, it's no a big deal, the skr pico is actually cheaper and I alway wanted one of those... so pico is going in the. backpack... it should be here tomorrow/friday. It seems extremely simple to hookup with can

one could argue the skr pico is better than the skr e3 mini

[stone valve]

@proud cliff don't forget the transceiver

[proud cliff]

it's already there, I only need to crimp jst and remove the dupont

[stone valve]

ah the same you already had

Got it

[noble yacht]

I take it you’ve looked at the voron 2.4 awd?

[stone valve]

I did not, I eyeballed the idea of reusing the back towers mirrored

doesn't work you need path for the belt to return

[noble yacht]

They move tensioning to the back so the front can be static

Stepper towers with a moving motor mount to tension the belts?

[stone valve]

I actually like that

instead of moving the whole tower right?

[noble yacht]

Would a bit of designing to get there, I’m looking at my modded steppers forgetting the m3 bolts holding the motor hold it together too. But should be doable.

[stone valve]

I'm tempted to try to design a tensioning tower to attach the stepper to

[stone valve]

yeah it's currently some.long M3

[noble yacht]

Yea mine have no m3’s cause the motor is dropped

[stone valve]

ah right forgot you had the motors dropped

[mellow remnant]

is this a new version of the tower? with the added support?

[frail swallow]

Nope, we're brainstorming how to do an AWD Merc

[mellow remnant]

aha... what do you mean by AWD?

[frail swallow]

4 steppers instead of 2. 😁

[mellow remnant]

for the back ones? really...

or two extra on the front?

[frail swallow]

Two extra on the front was the thinking.

[mellow remnant]

aha... I can understand that. to eleviate the pressure of of the back ones

[frail swallow]

Not sure they're gonna pursue it, though. It would need a lot of work to accomplish.

[mellow remnant]

indeed 🤔

[frail swallow]

Cartesian AWD would probably be easier to do, and by then you might as well build a VzBot 😆

Imagine threading the belts through 4 stepper towers 😲

[mellow remnant]

haha that would be a brain cracker 🤣

cool idea though!

[solar bridge]

I'm just building a k3 for a fast printer

[mellow remnant]

the honeybadger one?

[solar bridge]

Yup

[mellow remnant]

damnnn that thing is mental

Toolhead is big though.. allot of wheight to move?

[solar bridge]

It's not that big, at least weight wise

[mellow remnant]

ah just visually looks big then.. Looking forward to your build. That is one crazy ass machine haha

[stone valve]

damn I would love to follow that build, got a build log for it somewhere?

[solar bridge]

Over on the fabreeko discord. It's stalled a bit. But I'll probably work on it this weekend

[stone valve]

@solar bridge would you mind sharing the server link? noy finding it

[frail swallow]

https://discord.com/channels/893696029512302602/1112129267178942506

[stone valve]

will need server invite

[solar bridge]

https://discord.gg/C5NueDQU

[proud cliff]

they also used 4 nema 14, instead of 17, right?

[noble yacht]

They have both

[proud cliff]

I actually was thinking something along your dropped mount, but above the printer (since in the front would interfere with hydra) but it really add complexity, maybe @frail swallow is right saying it needs a bigger belt

9mm

[noble yacht]

I was thinking that too, but you would need to change the frame really. As you’d need longer uprights to attach to

[proud cliff]

unless one could add a mount with 2 stepper in the back after the klicky probe, where the toolhead doesn’t pass anyway 😅

[proud cliff]

by what I’ve seen most enclosures add extrusions there, not mine obviously

[proud cliff]

@gleaming trout you tempted me … also who knows how long the free shipping would last 😰

[solar bridge]

That's small, so I think it will stay like that

[proud cliff]

I confirmed the skr mini e3 v3 is working in uart. for some reason it really doesn’t like canbus this one 😒. So I connected rx/tx to a serial dongle and use it via the keystone usb port. This made me realized the wires I made before were causing the motor noise! so I quickly fixed them and reproduced the 45k accel 500 speed I was able to do before, in relative silence… looking forward for the pico tomorrow, maybe that why I can pass the 45k, the pico should be marginally faster than the skr mini. but we will see

[proud cliff]

fetched the skr pico from the post drop box near by. I’m loving the look of the board….. are the board stackable with other pico/rpis? the design seems pretty flat. For sure I’ll get another one in the future to replace the last standing skr mini (I think I can sell this as it’s perfectly working)

I think I’ll use the 20mm standoff to stack a pico and the asus tinker board, saving even more space in the bay… I think with this I can really clean up the wiring

or print shorter standoff, I’m sure something is already out there for stacking rpis

[solar bridge]

They made to stack on pi on top

[stone valve]

I see them easily stacking on each other as well

BTW pico holes are M2.5 so an M3 won't fit, you can make them larger though

I just ued a 3mm drill bit manually

[proud cliff]

maybe some printer standoff with narrow 2.5 mm ends... I've seen mounting towers, I have to measure how deep the el bay is, but at least 2 boards seems reasonable to be stacked and fit in the bay, maybe 3 (just for curiosity... but this would be an appealing setup for people with a 5pro and wanting hydra with a small footprint -eg you want the space for a 5v psu-)

plus you could make the mount with a fan and a cooling duct to cool down all the boards

[solar bridge]

I ordered some brass standoffs for mine

[proud cliff]

yeah, I have many 20mm brass standoff, m3 though… but I think I’m going to do a-la flow4enol and drill through 3mm

[solar bridge]

Open them up!

[proud cliff]

@stone valve how did you went about with the drill? is it relatively safe?

for the pico holes

[stone valve]

just drilled the second one today

let me get a pic

[proud cliff]

what do you mean 😰?

would it crack open?

[stone valve]

I used one of these, a regular drill works as long as you're careful and go sloooooooow

[proud cliff]

huu, wait, I could slowly go with an m3 tap, by hand

[stone valve]

there's margin for maybe even a 4mm hole

[proud cliff]

I think it’s the safest, the tap bit is really sharp, and will easily eat up the metal/pcb instead of put pressure on the edges/board

[stone valve]

Go for it

[frail swallow]

You can also bore it out with an M3 screw

That's how I mount mine

[proud cliff]

ahh ok, maybe that’s what Turtle meant, I tough he was warning me of some danger (I am prone to screw up)

[frail swallow]

Ahh, I bet that is what he meant.

[solar bridge]

https://tenor.com/view/drill-wall-girl-drill-gif-21311235

[proud cliff]

that’s how I usually bolt in stuff on the din rails 🤭

[proud cliff]

still got some fever, it’s actually worse than before + the witcher is out… the pico will not be handled today. another day of downtime

[proud cliff]

placed the pi/ connected everything, flashed with can, and to my surprise I even got the configuration correct at the first try!

now I need to print a propeer mount for the pico in the back

[proud cliff]

I don't want to fuss around with a perfect design, added a bunch of ziptight holes randomly, eyeballing in a correct position for some wires (still fever, I've got some nasty manflu, I don't want to think, just doing stuff)

[proud cliff]

forward looking todo:

• print and install new backpack electronic plate (the one above)
• shorten all the cables in the backpack that needs shortening, bolt securely an zip tight everything
• flash canboot on the back pico (right now is normal klipper on canbus comm) so I don’t need to worry about physical interaction with it for update (plus side, the thr and the skr pico have the same klipper firmware … need to double check the canbus pins if they are also 0/1)
• close the backpack properly so it’s still “safe” to be around the printer while on
• make a mount for the camera, I have a creative live something usb camera. internally it has a 40x25 mm board, I will make a basic angled mount, and install the camera at the top right, inside the enclosure
• design a door/cover using the 6mm plexiglass slab I have around (probably carboard door to mockup in the meantime)

[proud cliff]

oh, yes, and finally, get another pico, and refactoring the electronic bay

also the pico driven a/b fails to reach 50k. doesn’t skip at 500@45k. So same as before. it must be something mechanical (rails quality, frame squareness…)

I don’t really care, since if I’ll manage to print >=10k accel I’ll be happy (stuck at 6k right now)

[stone valve]

45 is great mine is stuck at 15

need to recalibrate everything

[proud cliff]

47k works, 48k starts to skip

before

mcu: stepper_x:24300 stepper_y:5076 stepper_z:-24032 stepper_z1:-24032 stepper_z2:-24032
stepper: stepper_x:510.500000 stepper_y:-2.500000 stepper_z:30.000000 stepper_z1:30.000000 stepper_z2:30.000000
kinematic: X:254.000000 Y:256.500000 Z:30.000000
toolhead: X:254.000000 Y:256.500000 Z:30.000000 E:0.000000
gcode: X:254.000000 Y:256.500000 Z:30.000000 E:0.000000
gcode base: X:0.000000 Y:0.000000 Z:0.000000 E:0.000000
gcode homing: X:0.000000 Y:0.000000 Z:0.000000

after

mcu: stepper_x:24303 stepper_y:5075 stepper_z:-24046 stepper_z1:-24046 stepper_z2:-24046
stepper: stepper_x:510.500000 stepper_y:-2.500000 stepper_z:30.000000 stepper_z1:30.000000 stepper_z2:30.000000
kinematic: X:254.000000 Y:256.500000 Z:30.000000
toolhead: X:254.000000 Y:256.500000 Z:30.000000 E:0.000000
gcode: X:254.000000 Y:256.500000 Z:30.000000 E:0.000000
gcode base: X:0.000000 Y:0.000000 Z:0.000000 E:0.000000
gcode homing: X:0.000000 Y:0.000000 Z:0.000000```

I was a genius not to remove the protection film from the panel before installing it 😔

[proud cliff]

I am not sure what happened but the heatbreak fan stopped to work all of a sudden and since than both psus switched off for no reason (all off), twice, and than I was able to run the printer motors, lights, all other fans… all together so I would exclude too much drawn… I will check later tonight the not working fan

[stone valve]

dead fan maybe

[proud cliff]

can it trigger the fuse randomly?

the “fuse” is a glass 10A fuse embedded in the switch. I removed the circuit breaker

it would blow and need replace so I don’t think it’s that

[stone valve]

did it blow a fuse?

[proud cliff]

not that I know. everything works without any intervention

a part the fan

[stone valve]

do you have a spare?

[proud cliff]

maybe I noved something in the bay that make the connection unstable, I need to check the wiring sooner than expected

[proud cliff]

yes, I have another one, plus 2 creality stock 40x10

[stone valve]

try one?

[proud cliff]

yes, I’ll get to it later tonight.. I was hoping to print stuff in the meantime.. but nope

heatsink fan is the only fan one can’t really be without 😞

[stone valve]

you're better than me though

I can't print at all

[proud cliff]

but you have 2 printers

technically you can print

just excruciatingly slow

[stone valve]

none of them works right now making the effort to get the slowpoke working

I need to print a new x endstop piece for the merc

[proud cliff]

can’t you just flash a stock firmare from creality?

if that’s a thing

[stone valve]

heh thrre is

I have an old repo of marlin

update might be painful but I have the configs

[proud cliff]

I am a moron, the fan is fine, I just re-installed on the wrong pin 🙄

so the shutdown was unrelated. I hope I didn’t do any damage on the hotend heating up without cooling for some minutes

maybe 20 minutes

[proud cliff]

printed overnight and the printer didn’t shut down, so I don’t know what I’ve seen yesterday. but I swapped the spool, and the one it was printing with was tangled after few rounds (right when I decided to leave it alone probably). the sherpa mini filament sensor didn’t stop it right away, as it printed few very bad layers, but it did shortly after

I couldn’t unwound the spool even by hand, so that was clearly the cause

[proud cliff]

tighten up the enclosure, reached 40C, and the thr36 reached 100C, the print was killed… @solar bridge how hot your thr is running (if you run it enclosed)?

[stone valve]

wait the thr has temp sensor?

[proud cliff]

the default rp2040

[stone valve]

I dont remember seeing it on klipper

[proud cliff]

[temperature_sensor thr36]
## THR36 CANboard temp
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
sensor_mcu: thr36
max_temp: 100```

I’m trying to pull some official specs on the thr boards to see if I can push over 100C, a loot of marketing, very little useful info

if the mount will resist at that temp 😅

[stone valve]

where the hell are the docs for those sensors

The RP2040 series is available in a QFN-56 package with a -20°C to +85°C operating temperature range.

so 100...

[proud cliff]

it’s skirocketing

I think I have to remove the cat shroud 😔

or maybe the cat shroud could have a fan version 😛, @frail swallow

[frail swallow]

There is one! Just...it removes the cat face.

I'm running it with 30mm fans on both of mine

95C at 34C chamber temps? Oh my that's not cool

[proud cliff]

so is there one with 4 inserts for the fan?

[proud cliff]

I suspect it’s too crammed, all the wires and the shoud is compressing, no much air exchange for the heatsink to be of any help

[frail swallow]

Agreed. The fan definitely helps.

[proud cliff]

amazing, I only have a very loud 30mm fan 😩

no 40mm?

paused and removed the shroud

[frail swallow]

Nah, too big, too noisy, not enough need

[frail swallow]

Nice, definitely the cause

[proud cliff]

maybe i only need to cut a grid in the shroud 🤔

[frail swallow]

You just want to save the cat face 😆

[proud cliff]

I really like the cat face, but maybe it needs less plastic there

[proud cliff]

yeah 😂

[frail swallow]

I'll see what I can come up with. Maybe make the cat face out of empty space and put a grid around it

[frail swallow]

This is as it should be 😉

[proud cliff]

ok, temps under control, I think I am possibly running also a electronic bay temp issue as well, the tinkerboard runs extremely hot, historically for me was always around ~80C… another print stopped for a random “timer too close” on the canbus network (reported on the thr36), but it might be the sbc is running too hot, I’m without camera now 😩

the thinkerboard is fine, but it’s not as powerful as the rpi4, plus is not running 64bit code. and canbus. I don’t have any network error though

so now I’m looking into cooling down the electronics bay, the sbc is the most challenged electronics, the skr mini is only running Zs at 0.5 amps each and used as usb to can bridge, it doesn’t run very hot

[proud cliff]

SBC without camera is running at ~65 C, totally reasonable temp. I should look into which rendering the camera is using, It should be possible not to use cpu for this

or maybe I should just track down a pi4b 2Gb with reasonable prices

[proud cliff]

but that’s the operating temperature, not the max chip temperature, I think 🤔

[stone valve]

max chip temp is when it dies

once you go above operating temp things start to go bad

[proud cliff]

yeah, I want to set it just a tad before that

[stone valve]

I wouldn't let it go above 85

[proud cliff]

but the operating temperature is the external temperature, that would be ~40C. but yeah, it clearly have heating issues… I don’t know how happy the asa mount would be during some few hours print to be close to a 100~110 C heatsink

[proud cliff]

ok, that’s the baseline temperature of the thing even when it wasn’t enclosed

you’d get a lot of prints stopped at 85c

if not all

just now even without shroud it reached 90C

I will buy another one

[stone valve]

for me it's like a CPU, anything near 90 is trouble

[proud cliff]

and maybe others when the price offers is a bargain

[stone valve]

well technically it's a CPU

I'll keep an eye on mine as well from now on

[proud cliff]

it can also be that temperature reading is not accurate, it’s not actually 90C

I could in theory attack a thermistor to the heatsink and compare

[stone valve]

there will be a difference

[proud cliff]

the shroud with a fan seems the safest thing to implement

[stone valve]

I would go that route

[proud cliff]

and start it above 85

[stone valve]

Start it sooner

if possible scale it

85 would be 100%

[proud cliff]

yeah, the thr can scale it, I just have an empty fan slot

I don’t know How to configure it in klipper though

[stone valve]

that scares me though, I want to go dual 5015 and hotend is the third

no room left

[proud cliff]

do you want to control the dual fans individually?

[stone valve]

I was planning to but

might give up on that

[proud cliff]

maybe that’s what was happening to your issues as well, the thr controls the extruder motor, the driver might have gone mad with a properly sealed enclosure (mine is still leaky, less than before.. but still…)

[stone valve]

it was filament binding

coming out of the drybox

issues went away as soon as I corrected the path

[proud cliff]

I had to respool a roll yesterday

considering looking for a tool for doing it systematically

one of my cat was trying to chew on some loop while I was untangling a mess… I just cut it than And swap the filament

[stone valve]

I have yet to find one tangled

had one instance and it was due to my error

if I had that kind of issues with a specific brand and I was sure it wasn't me I would just stop buying

[proud cliff]

I tried the Hilbert curve pattern as first layer, it was painfully slow, but I felt the results gave more adhesion vs line parterns. it also give a very nice uniform finish, where the fast pattern might show some of the bed imperfections

[proud cliff]

that was probably my error

[stone valve]

I have yet to try that, but it's on my plans

I do get a nice finish with the oseq sheet

[proud cliff]

same, I ended up with the line pattern, for a 8x5cm the first layer time was more than 1h

[stone valve]

ouch

[proud cliff]

but for small piece that needs extra adhesion, I might consider it

[stone valve]

at what speeds

[proud cliff]

I left it default

[stone valve]

you might get away with higher

how much is default do you know?

[proud cliff]

don’t remember, but the hilbert curve is such an intricate pattern that is constantly changing direction

[stone valve]

my current baseline for first layer is 60

[stone valve]

yeah I know, this is where high acceleration is good

[proud cliff]

first layes is at 50 for me

[stone valve]

a decent speed

[proud cliff]

200 from the 2nd… you can really see the changing pace 😂

speed benchy 300 fist layer, it was quite scary

it also managed to stick

[stone valve]

I'm surprised

which material

[proud cliff]

asa

next time I’ll tape it, I had an hand busy to stay on the power switch

[proud cliff]

Once all my other todos are done I have to look what settings make to breach the 24min mark. I think my printer has it to make at least around 10~15min

the filament sensor works like a charm, I am impressed. for what it is it’s fantastic. I only need to print a cover for the switch, I am thinking to modify the tradrack endstop cover, just to protect the heatshrink on soldered bits a little more nicely

I also need to make some gear competition, I fee like the RIDGA gear gives me more quality prints

[rancid crown]

👋 thanks for posting this video! I'd been thinking about my accel performance a bit more... was wondering what speed you're using for this 47k accel test?

I think it's max_velocity in printer.cfg

[proud cliff]

hey :). I used 500, and 50mm bound (since it would slam around klicky and other mounts without any boundaries)

[proud cliff]

max velocity I have a ludicrous value… let me check

it’s 600.. but the test will@use only 500 (it will start skipping with higher speed as well)

[rancid crown]

Cool, I'm going to try another round of test

I was able to get 22k at 700

[proud cliff]

we both used that disgusting ep2 lubricant, so it can’t be the issue. the weight it’s probably better in yours because of the lightweight bar

[rancid crown]

And that let me beat my personal best benchy time, now at 8:45

[proud cliff]

it boils down to motor and rails

[proud cliff]

wtf!

[rancid crown]

Agreed

And 😂

[proud cliff]

I am stuck at 24min benchy 😂

[rancid crown]

You can get there!

No prob

[proud cliff]

I will try 22k and 700 speed test, to see if I can go that fast. it might be that I can’t

[rancid crown]

I'd be curious to hear about your results!

Vez just put out a video on a 30k and 600mm challenge

[proud cliff]

I’m waiting for the lightweight bas as well, and I just printed a mount for the bambu clone, that seems to be half the size of a rapido

[rancid crown]

Niiiiice

[proud cliff]

and maybe swap the 4020 for a 4010, If I find the nice round gstime… So I hope I’ll push the weight a bit down in the future

[rancid crown]

Good times!

[proud cliff]

I’ll do the test tomorrow. I wonder if some would make a script to increase acceleration/speed by small steps and record the skipping steps amount, and stop when skipping more than 16… and make a proper graph out of it (it might be dangerous unsupervised though)

[rancid crown]

Seems like it would be a nice improvement

[proud cliff]

it might be something telling about the printer mechanics. some constant motor/rails/weight will have the same effect, however we can only guess the motor power and measure the weight. I am not into mechanics/physics but in genetics we model random stuff we don’t know, and works around the variables we might know 😅

[rancid crown]

So true!

Well, I could only get 28k at 400

🤷‍♂️

[proud cliff]

aligning the mounting holes of the bambu(clone) hotend with my spare nf crazy, shows the nozzle placement will be more or less the same (if not slightly lower)

the mount prints ok using very small plastic (~30 min), I only butchered both copies I did when removing the supports

and I need to dry my filament, it was stringing party yesterday

[proud cliff]

total weight with a random 40x10 fan is 46g (a kitchen scale +/- 1)

nf crazy weight -no fan attached- 73g

so this with removal quite a lot of weight on the carriage

it’s crazy, you can feel the difference even by lifting them

I even used oversized m3 screws for the fan, m3x35 instead of m3x 25 for the 4010

I don’t want to go to remove the rapido to check the weight, this was a quick and dirty -put numbers on what I felt- but I would be surprised if the rapido is much lighter than the nf crazy

Rapido HF only seems to be around 43g

unless the plastic + hsi + bolts + fan is less than 3 grams, it will beat also the rapido…. but would it work?

will see

[gentle garnet]

Well?

https://tenor.com/view/is-it-time-yet-gif-25211267

[proud cliff]

he he.. I wish, not yet, but the weight difference is incredible

[gentle garnet]

I told you

I'm sure that two of your buddies here will place an immediate order once you say you like it

[frail swallow]

I'm tapped out ATM. But it'll go on the wishlist. 😆

...whatever it is. EDIT: OH! the bambu! yes!

[gentle garnet]

You're his third buddy then 🤣

[frail swallow]

lol, we're all lemmings in these monster build logs

"That looks cool! Imma do it!"

I swear, I'd be done... 🤣

[gentle garnet]

meh I know you guys do this to increase your level in the server.

😆

[frail swallow]

That old bot made it look like I was grinding WoW

I was like level 30 in two months or some ridiculousness

[stone valve]

oh no he found our secret

as for the bambu hotend, only if nozzles are swappable and has a flow a lot better than the crazy

so I can justify it to myself

[proud cliff]

nozzle are swappable, flow rate should be au-pair if not higher than the crazy. how the bambu x1 would do quality benchy in 15 min otherwise?

[proud cliff]

I have some backlog since I was sick for the last week, so either hobby fixing and actual-job todos 😔

[proud cliff]

and yet I’m considering swapping the hotend to just see how it does.. doing the least productive thing I could do, as usual

wow @rancid crown 22k and 700 is faast, then printer made it without skipping

[stone valve]

I tried going to 40k but as soon as I raise speed above 200 skips a lot 😭

[proud cliff]

22k and 800, the motors starts to be loud 😮

[stone valve]

Btw how fast are you moving z?

[proud cliff]

hmm, very slow 12 vel 200 acc

28k 800. I’ll stop there

[stone valve]

Tried 75mm on z I'm surprised it works

[stone valve]

Damn I'm jealous

[proud cliff]

naaa, I forgot to copy the console output, and I already tuned all off 😮‍💨

[stone valve]

I can't get mine moving like that without stupid skipping

Guess I'll have to order the new steppers

[proud cliff]

I might be wrong, but the printer got a lot more stable once I installed the enclosure on the frame. it’s not perfectly squared, but it’s sturdy. I can’t lift the thing, it must be at least 30kg. I need to weigh it

[rancid crown]

Yep, made it without skipping... I printed a benchy at 18k 700mm/sec and it went pretty quick! I'm probably not trying to print any faster than that... 😂

[proud cliff]

pretty productive half hour of coding python to use OpenSCAD, I am planning a bazel for the plexiglass, here is a screenshot of a top corner from the bottom (openScad has the ugliest rendering ever possible)

the code I used is very clean! I like it! ```python
import sys

from muscad import Volume, Cube, Part

class CornerBazel(Part):
def init(
self, height=2, edge_len=100, widht=40, glass_thickness=5, inlay_ratio=1 / 2
):
""" """
self.add_child(
Volume(width=edge_len, depth=edge_len, height=height)
.fillet_height(height / 2, front=True, back=True)
.fillet_depth(height / 2, top=True)
.fillet_width(height / 2, top=True)
)

    self.add_hole(
        Volume(width=edge_len - widht, depth=edge_len - widht, height=height)
        .fillet_height(height / 2, right=True, front=True)
        .align(bottom=self.bottom, left=self.left, back=self.back)
    )
    self.add_hole(
        Cube(
            edge_len - (widht * inlay_ratio),
            edge_len - (widht * inlay_ratio),
            glass_thickness,
        ).align(bottom=self.bottom, left=self.left, back=self.back)
    )

if name == "main":
corner = CornerBazel(
height=10, edge_len=100, widht=40, glass_thickness=5, inlay_ratio=1 / 2
)

print(corner)

[proud cliff]

I probably will find out after spending countless hours a major flaw in this cad designing technique, otherwise everyone would do this, right? it's so much more convenient than dragging and editing shapes into a canvas

just added some M3 bolts, it was as easy as to add additional holes python self.add_hole( Bolt.M3(8) .top_to_bottom() .align( center_x=self.center_x + width, top=self.top, center_y=self.center_y - width, ) )

[frail swallow]

It has a place, for sure. But so does Blender and stuff like regular CAD software. 🙂

[proud cliff]

added a bottom place, and rendered on top of each other in freecad (slightly better rendering, I asked for different colors but that got lost in translation apparently)

the issue I'm seeing is that the parts/object logic I implement in the code, doesn't get exported in freeCAD, I only have a bunch of primitive shapes, from freeCAD I could export a step file, and import it in fusion 😅

for instance, unless I add some sacrificial bridge or the like, I don't know how those counterbores are going to print... maybe it's a specific thing I can learn how to do in the "normal CAD"... or maybe I can also code it... let's see

[frail swallow]

Check out the ZeroG step files. They do a 3-layer trick to bridge those counterbores.

Looks like this:

[stone valve]

that's not scad code...

or they moved to python?

[stone valve]

did one of these somewhere a pain do draw

[proud cliff]

it’s a python api that generates scad code

[stone valve]

ahhh, easier to read indeed

(personally not a python fan but I take it over scad)

[frail swallow]

Yeah, they are. They get easier as you do more, but I'd really like to be able to select a face and run a script in Fusion to "overhang-ify" a counterbore like that.

[proud cliff]

can you do that? I wasn’t able to move, translate things like I wanted, the simplest operations 🙄

also I compulsively hit enter even when I shouldn’t, so I have to re-open the same menus over and over 😦

[proud cliff]

or, a small 5v fan always on attached to the bltouch 5v pin 🤔

[solar bridge]

There is a plugin to do those in fusion. Dutch tried it, we felt it best to continue to do them manually.

[stone valve]

how do you actually do them? just sketch rectangles and extrude?

[solar bridge]

It added to many sketches and features, and wasn't easy to change after since each one was its own so of sketches and features

Project the inside and outside circles

Then draw 4 lines

2 across, and tangent to the center

Then 2 more inside the first two lines, also tangent to the center

Make the center circle construction

[stone valve]

same way I did them then 😁

[solar bridge]

Then extrude the proper regions 1 and 2 layers

[stone valve]

in a lot of different sketches and features

[solar bridge]

Optional step is to chamfer the inner circle at the end

[stone valve]

now that I think about it, the design I sent to jlcpcb had those features (SLS doesn't need them) 🤦

[frail swallow]

Oooh, that's an interesting twist. I'll check that out.

[stone valve]

@proud cliff how's the bambu hotend going? good flow?

[proud cliff]

still haven’t mount it, I need to remove the current connector and crimp different ones… I know you people are going to kill me, but I’ m thinking to use just jst-sm for the cartridge and dupont for the thermistor (because that’s what I have)

[stone valve]

well I'd prefer JST-SM than XH

[proud cliff]

managed to understand where to declare the colors :D, frame (green), bottom and top bezel (blue and red and in between the slot for the plexiglass)

I only need to understand what size of magnets I have and embed them in the things

[proud cliff]

I need to define some parameters to compare the bambu with the rapido. First I need to tune it. SonI could go about to make some flow calibration round with the rapido and di the same with the bambu (does it have a name this thing!?). I am undecided if I need to install a chr-clone in both

I also need to run a resonance tests for both, maybe the weight change matter (I doubt)
and print a calibration cube with both, eventually the speed benchy

-meanwhile I still need to fiddle with stuff in the enclosure 😫-

[proud cliff]

just wired the bambu clone, not mounted yet, it heats pretty fast

[proud cliff]

to be honest the crimping of new connectors went smooth, but it’s definitely a critical point. the wires are just long enough, you can’t afford to lose any mm. the material of the sleeves is quite weird, the heating cartridge sleeve is some sort of wax tube, that slides in/out the wire. anyway. it seems I surprisingly didn’t screw it up the crimping, so I guess anyone can do it. but I’d suggest to just solder in an extension

[mellow remnant]

newbie here... how do you do a speed test like that? custom Gcode?

[proud cliff]

Following the guide here https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/articles/determining_max_speeds_accels.html

[mellow remnant]

oehhhh very nice! thanks! 😄

[mellow remnant]

daayummm.. ran the basic speed test at 5k acceleration two iterations... got me shaking 🤯 . what a rush haha

[stone valve]

try 20k with 500mm/s

should be fun

just be ready to power off

[mellow remnant]

hahahaha from 0 to 100 reall quick... I'll slowly ramp up to that 🤣

[mellow remnant]

making a bit of noise. noticed this during printing too when moving to the back left in a cross manner. .

not sure what that is though..

i'll figure it out 🙂

[stone valve]

what speed

sounds like some rail vibration

[mellow remnant]

did the standard test : TEST_SPEED: starting 2 iterations at speed 10000, accel 5000

[stone valve]

10k mm/s?

[mellow remnant]

weird thing is... this was the command: TEST_SPEED ACCEL=5000 ITERATIONS=2

this was the output: TEST_SPEED: starting 2 iterations at speed 10000, accel 5000

[stone valve]

is that your speed on printer config?

sounds like too high

[mellow remnant]

nooo

[stone valve]

printer wont hit 10k speed without crazy acceleration

[mellow remnant]

let me look it up.. just turned off the printer.

[mellow remnant]

isnt the 10K velocity? not mm/s

[stone valve]

velocity is mm/s

[mellow remnant]

uhhh duhh

[stone valve]

acceleration mm/s²

[mellow remnant]

excussseee me

lemme check... think I have a setting set too high

[printer]
kinematics: corexy
max_velocity: 10000
max_accel: 8000
max_z_velocity: 5
max_z_accel: 100

[stone valve]

does look too high

[mellow remnant]

max_velocity: 10000 this one right

[stone valve]

yep

[mellow remnant]

whats the max you can get on a merc?

[stone valve]

realistically it won't reach that speed

well it should be tuned as well

ellis guide makes a reference to that

[mellow remnant]

aha... a new rabbit hole opens... lol

[stone valve]

I would start at something like 500

or lower

[mellow remnant]

sounds good.. thanks for pointing that out. and glad I did not destroy the printer lol

[stone valve]

IIRC ellis guide recomends to tune accel first then speed

[mellow remnant]

there thats better

[stone valve]

nah with 8k accel it just won't reach that speed

looking great

[mellow remnant]

good to know... I will get on that right away!

[stone valve]

double check it please don't trust my memory

[mellow remnant]

no worries.. I will read that documentation!!!

learning something new every day .. thanks! 😄

still hearing that noise... strange.. do not hear it when I move the gantry on X and Y very fast

movement is more smooth though at 500

[stone valve]

it kinda reminds me the stealthchop noise but it's not as agressive

[mellow remnant]

yeah I think it is that too.. stealthcop is enabled.

rails are smooth and square to X

[stone valve]

oh disable it, you will get much better acceleration too

motors become a little noisier

[mellow remnant]

when I diable it the motor make a hissing noise that scares me

[stone valve]

it's fine

[mellow remnant]

you sure? I thought that thing was about to catch fire at some point with that hissing noise haha

oke lemme try

[stone valve]

it's normal

my z ones do it too

[mellow remnant]

oke good to know

[stone valve]

A B motors don't for some reason

[mellow remnant]

ohhh this is waaaayyy better... and the sound is so smoothh I love it!!! feels like i got a whole new printer lol

so much better 😄 thanks a million!

[stone valve]

no problem glad I could help

[mellow remnant]

video wont load though but the movement is smooth like butter... 😄

now off to bed!!!

[stone valve]

it does load here

not listening but looks better

[mellow remnant]

oh good! not here

[mellow remnant]

and sounds a million times better!!!

[proud cliff]

yeah, that’s unfortunately doesn’t work well with corexy. I am still hoping it’s possible to use it in super slow/dead silent mode, but probably it’s just a thing to forget about

[mellow remnant]

I think so too... I do like the sound though when stealthcop is disabled 😅

[proud cliff]

indeed! A beast sound

[proud cliff]

which motors do you have?

[mellow remnant]

the LDO honeybadgers from fabreeko

these

[proud cliff]

ok, same as mine, not HB branded though, I’m jealous 😝

[mellow remnant]

Nema 17 1.8 degrees 48mm body motor

[mellow remnant]

feels like they are unbreakable

[proud cliff]

they push like nothing else. we compared up in the log with the 2.8A version, but the 2.5 holds more torque, they seems to be better… we’ll never know without a direct comparison

[mellow remnant]

Naissss.... I made the right choice 😎😈

[proud cliff]

it definitely need a pid tune, and I am not sure I hot-tighten it enough, but the nozzle position is almost the same as the rapido. Sexbolt touchdown happens slightly on the left, so I’d need to calibrate a little bit, with a 0.4 cht-clone nozzle, it managed to shoot 25 mm3/s (with the “extrude 50mm and hear the skipping” method)

the mount calls for a ptfe +14.6mm, so with the sherpa mini I’ve cut a 38.8 mm ptfe tube

again, feeling the rapido and this , I estimate this have half the weight. I don’t particularly like the mount, but it’s very minimalistic and it does the job. the eva 3 mount seems more solid, but also a lot more plastic

[proud cliff]

I have bought random stuff, another skr pico (20€ discount on btt shop in ali, I couldn’t miss it) and a replacement for the thr, you never know. So the new pico will replace the skr mini in the el.bay, and stacked on the asus tb (same form factor as a pi). So I can also finalise this 6+ months building process

[proud cliff]

Once I rearrange the bay I will probably print some small wire slotted ducts to stuff and hide the wiring mess 😂, and call it the day

I was already mentioned that I should print something for Christmas… I would hate to not have a fully functional printer by then 😝

[proud cliff]

Ok, found something odd with the bambu clone. It's very fast to reach temperature around 255, but if I ask 275, it barely manages, I have some hard time printing of even pid tune with higer temperarue (the part cooling fan cool down the nozzle too much I suspect)

testing the watermark method 😅

[frail swallow]

Have you checked around to see if this is common yet?

I'm curious to see what you find.

[proud cliff]

no, most thing I find is bambu related, but the slope of the heating curves with and without fan are totaly different, I can see this as an issue (I had it before, when the duct is not perfectly setup for the nozzle)

hu, I changed the type to Generic 3950 and it seems to do better

this is a 40$ hotend, which seems to keep up with the rapido and such. I am still not sure if I'll replace the rapido with this, but it definitely looks promising. I miss the 1 hand nozzle change, but I like the weight difference

[stone valve]

no one hand change is a big no for me, especially on Christmas when I need to print some filaments that like to clog the .4 nozzle, have a .5 hardened but looking back should have gone with .6

[proud cliff]

particulary difficult to tighten since it has a 4mm bolt, and my sets of good keys stop at 6mm, but I agree, it's really a good help not be worried of the heating block

[stone valve]

it's off my list, the crazy spoiled me with the one hand swaps

[proud cliff]

why they have to provide pairs of wrench made of worse-than-cardboard material, that they are only good for damaging something

[stone valve]

I even printed a torque wrench

ah yes the sheet metal wrench

[proud cliff]

tbu the eva hotend is pretty easy to disassemble, if I wasn't that lazy I would take it out and hot tighten this while not mounted (much easier)

I keeps having huge temp and shutdown. I touched the heatsink and it wasn't colt, it actually was a bit loose,,, maybe that's the issue

I'll do few test, but if this keeps up I'm better off without heatsinks

Maybe I should apply themral paste

[proud cliff]

hmm, I'm only peaking, but it appears to be printing very nicely

[stone valve]

mine has no heatsink and is not that hot I would say try without

[proud cliff]

yes, I’ll remove the heatsink next, the fan in the shroud will probably hit the back wall when probing the nozzle. so I probably wasted some money getting 3010 fans

the yellow one goes up steadily

I'm printing a guitar capo, I printed one yesterday with the rapido, just to see the difference

no specific tuning, I've left the PA values from the rapido (that were also very close to the default in Orca)

I had to pause because the temp was already 87C. It only went down when I cooldown the extruder

[stone valve]

ohhh

let me look at the schematic

[stone valve]

how hot does the heater mosfet get?

are you able to check?

its on the back

[proud cliff]

not right now, but I'll make a test

[stone valve]

from schematic looks very close to the rp2040

but on the backside

knowing that the rapido pulls a lot (not sure about the bambu)

[proud cliff]

ahh, I need to remove it from the mount than

[stone valve]

yeah might be hard to reach mounted

but if just heating up causes it to get hot

[proud cliff]

it should be around 50W only

maybe I should have gone for an ebb instead 😛

but as @gentle garnet mentioned, this boards are "consumeables"

[frail swallow]

I have gone through some already...

[proud cliff]

print stopped again it went back to 85 after the pause 😩

it heat up even without heatsinks, let’s see if gets that hot again

[proud cliff]

nothing, the printer keeps disconnect after a while

I'm trying again to post the error message this time

[stone valve]

try to check that mosfet

[proud cliff]

I had an error like this "Missed scheduling of next digital out event"

[proud cliff]

can I change/fix the mosfet?

[stone valve]

no

I mean

if you have the material to desolder and solder a new one

[proud cliff]

I do

but don't really want tbh 😄

[stone valve]

it's just an idea to debug it further

[proud cliff]

keeping the temp alone it's fine, I't all together that heat up the board

[stone valve]

it might be a bad mosfet that heats more than it should, might be the rp2040

[proud cliff]

bofore I've heat up at 275 an nothing else, the board was. stable around 60C for ~10 min, without increasing

[stone valve]

60 is where it has stabilized for me ( lower temps)

[proud cliff]

now I've got "MCU 'thr36' shutdown: Timer too close
This often indicates the host computer is overloaded"

[stone valve]

I do want to try heating bed to 110 and hotend to 300 but I'm waiting on the bed adjustment pieces, that managed to get delayed

[proud cliff]

there is an ebb42 available locally, I can fetch it tomorrow, maybe I can install it in diagonal 🤔

the apace of the 36 screws is the same as the oppiste screews of the 42 boards, the only thing is if there is enough clearance on the bottom

[stone valve]

looks tight

[frail swallow]

FWIW: My EBB42 with heatsink and the shroud fan blowing is at 47C right now. That's 6C over ambient in the chamber.

[proud cliff]

nope, seems fine

Turtle mount is rised by 5mm

so it drops just right inso th mount

[stone valve]

do iiiiiiit

[proud cliff]

it seems the thr is actually bigger than the ebb42 😂

[stone valve]

💸

[proud cliff]

20 euros

could be worse

[stone valve]

20 here, 20 there

[proud cliff]

yep

[frail swallow]

It's like $40 here

[stone valve]

I ordered more magnets for my new ducts

"just" 5€

[proud cliff]

I can’t even finish a print now, mcu shutdown after ~30min

[stone valve]

it's getting worse?

[proud cliff]

it shuts down when the thr tempmis above 80C, but it could also be the sbc not fast enough

or anywhere a connection getting loose

so step 1 is to try a new canbus board, I could try to disassemble and check all the connections with this one

doing nothing goes to 30C, so pretty normal

i’ll pick up the ebb42 tomorrow after work, it’s already arranged 🤞. Hopefully it’s not a scam

it started to act a bit since I changed the cable, I must have touched something I shouldn’t have

[stone valve]

those temps are still too high

[proud cliff]

I agree, that’s why it’s the primary suspect

I wonder if i could use it for something else. maybe I have a 1 motor canbus task that I can use

💡

a motor that opens and close the door 😛

[proud cliff]

woooops

cause or effect?

the sleeve of the + melted

awg22

the back looks fine, a part that thing, look like it grew a bit

[frail swallow]

Ah...melted?!

[stone valve]

oh dear does not look good

[proud cliff]

the screw terminal is a goner for sure

[proud cliff]

do you think the lump I see is normal? I don’t remember how it was anew 🤔

if it’s just a bed terminal thing, I can replace it, maybe

jst-xh might be good for l/h but I doubt they are safe for +/-

3A

the rapido draws alone 4amps

[stone valve]

jst for power no

from schematic I had the impression that it was the mosfet location

but nothing there

is there anything on the other side of the board?

[proud cliff]

not really

ok, I’ve run some kapton tape where the terminal melted, and see if it was some loose connection that heat up

not sure though why I’m doing this

I don’t have another terminal to solder in, I should replace it instead, I know 😩

on the bright side, I was lucky, this could have gone much worse, like 🔥

I have some connectors, but they are huge, this is a tiny screw connector

4.2mm between pins

no, that’s external, I think it’s 3.3 pitch

[proud cliff]

@stone valve another 5€ in connectors

they should have made it like this, male female… if it’s the same pitch

[proud cliff]

not doing anything stupid with the thr36 right now. I’ll get a ebb42 tomorrow, and I will try to make that work 😓

[frail swallow]

I think that's the safest plan

EBB42 comes with nice, big Mini Fit Jr pins for crimping.

[proud cliff]

huuu, I never crimped mini fit, would I screw it up?

[frail swallow]

if you've done micro fit 3 or jst sm, you can do mini fit jr. It's pretty straightforward

Just a scalled up MF3

They also give you ten pins and you only need 4

[proud cliff]

microfit, never, jst-sm a milion times

[frail swallow]

Tabs for insulation, tabs for electrical connection. Crimp both. 🙂

[proud cliff]

and also the connector is included, right?

[frail swallow]

Yep, two in fact

[proud cliff]

hotend it MF?

[frail swallow]

screw terminal for hotend, unfortunately. I pigtail it with MF3

I've actually started adding MF3 pigtails to my thermistor, fan, and heater cartridge. I can disconnect the hotend without reaching around to look at the toolboard

[proud cliff]

I was thinking the same, I have a 9 pins jst sm, once I consolidate the setup I might do somthing like that

[frail swallow]

It's come in handy several times already

[proud cliff]

I should have done it

[frail swallow]

Might not want to use JST SM for the heater pigtail, though. SM doesn't do well with high heat + current

[proud cliff]

yes, the hotend might leave screw in

only mf3 kit around costs 55 euros for 460pieces

I've never put it in the priority list

[frail swallow]

just get a set of 2 pin ones

you don't need much more than 2 and 4 pin in most cases

[proud cliff]

this os from 2 to 5

[frail swallow]

And you really only need them for the hotend, right?

Amazon (here at least) often sells 10 packs of 2 or 4 pin MF3 for like $10

Then you could keep using JST SM for the rest

[proud cliff]

here 50 euros for 10 connectors on amazon (4 pins 5 male 5 female)

nonsense

amazon.de

why would I need 1800 pieces!

and why they don't make decent bundle, are they made up with gold those things?

[stone valve]

@proud cliff they're damn hard to find in small amounts without paying a kidney

[proud cliff]

don’t buy them all, leave some for me now https://www.replimat.eu

[stone valve]

HSI and magnets are expensive though

[proud cliff]

yes, I got a box with 100 6x3 magnets from amazon

I hope I’ll be ok for a while

though, my front door enclosure need around 60 😅

[stone valve]

how much?

ordered 60 for 5€

still expensive but was next day delivery

[frail swallow]

Whuuut that's insane

[proud cliff]

12.6€ for 100

https://www.amazon.de/-/en/Multi-Use-Neodymium-Magnets-Permanent-Whiteboard/dp/B08F745KY5

they also came in a nice metal box 😅

[nimble lion]

at work we only buy the gold molex pins 😂

[frail swallow]

Those are so expensive, even for Molex

[proud cliff]

hmm, I need 3 endstops pins, and I am a bit confused about this

@frail swallow do you have an ebb42? how many endstops can I get? are pc13-15 3 separate endstops I can use with a common ground?

[solar bridge]

You have to share the ground pin

It's dumb, but that's what happens when a design is copied

Thr36 is actually a unique canbus design

[proud cliff]

Thanks! I’m planning to switch over to the thr36 when I get replacement terminals (next week hopefully)

Also the i2c header can be used as pin, so I could have 3 endstop without crimping grounds together

[solar bridge]

to me the dupont pins do not exist

so you have to share the ground on the endstop block

[stone valve]

it's just dumb that sharing

[frail swallow]

I would do that, tbh. The I2C and RGB headers both are options. I wire up my 30mm fan to the endstop connector, IIRC

[proud cliff]

those minifit thing connectors are huuge, I could even crimp it with a scissor… but I had to find out that the last pairs of wings do NOT need to be crimped 😅. luckily I immediately spotted the issue and I did it only on 1 wire

I crimped with the standard tool I use for jst. just need to be gentle not pressing too much

sweet it even works

now, the rest of the things to install and configure 😓

I was spooked by the micro/mini word. that’s not mini in my world

[frail swallow]

You should see their larger connectors. They're huge.

[proud cliff]

neighbours had a party, kid woke up and it was the end of my party… hopefully I’ll be able to connect everything this evening

[frail swallow]

Aww. Poor kiddo, and you, too.

[proud cliff]

@frail swallow how do I remove the minifit crimp without the removal tool? is it doable with tweezers? (I assumed the connector would pass through the heatshrink, it doesn’t)

I’ve seen someone using a ferrules instead of the removal tool, people are so smart

[nimble lion]

you didn’t buy the $40 MFJ removal tool? 😂

[proud cliff]

yeah, they should have provided it with the ebb42 🤬

I paid well 20$ for the ebb, they should have included a 40$ tool, right?

[frail swallow]

Ah...you'll prolly want to use the other connector in the pack

[proud cliff]

the back side?

looking it up

[frail swallow]

They usually include two connectors

Did they not?

[proud cliff]

Hh, the connector, I was thinking another pin, I see, yes I have 2 of those

will try later if the kid would ever go to sleep… apparently sleeping patter are very precious

[stone valve]

how old is he/she

[proud cliff]

18 months

actually almost 2 years 😅, time flies

[frail swallow]

Awww

[proud cliff]

by the way, I am astonished about the remarkably bad instructions on btt ebb github page to flash the board, They basically describe how to use scp, and don’t say anything what to do with the firmware 😒. I had to scroll around various sources before finding something I felt reasonably simple: compile klipper; connect usb; press boot buttons combo; dfu utils to flash from the sbc (the usb keystone is a life saver more and more)

I need to test the fans and the hotend, the switches are all sorted. I only need to remove the connector to add some heatshrink around the infill of this can cable, and zip tight everything

hopefully 2.1.1 will be able to print again soon

[gentle garnet]

Now do it again but flash CanBoot instead... Unless you prefer to go through this hassle whenever you decide to upgrade the MCU's firmware in the future.
I'm surprised by your statement, EBB36/42 are the most common CAN toolhead boards and there is a plethora of information about how to flash them.

[proud cliff]

no no, I’ll flash it asap, I have a plan to have 2 picos and a canboard on this machine, So I can automate the update klipper flashing with canboot

second pico is on the way

[gentle garnet]

So, break it down to me - are you in some race to have as many boards in this machine?

[proud cliff]

no, just I need 7 drivers + the extruder, and for some reason I like small boards 😂.. but now if I fix the thr36 I’ll get the spare one, and I could ditch the extra board and dedicate it to the MMU, and drive each motor with a can board

I am merely phasing out the skr mimis for the picos

[gentle garnet]

Take it from someone who's been there - don't. Builds should contain two boards, and two boards only. A manta (or equivalent mainboard with an integrated SBC) and a CAN toolhead board. Anything else is a pure waste of time.

[frail swallow]

Because of timing issues? Or problems in general?

[proud cliff]

O see the complexity scale up, the manta-bundle + can is very elegant and streamlined

[frail swallow]

Just the power distribution alone is a lot easier

[gentle garnet]

Because of simplicity. Because it makes wiring easier, and saves the trouble of needing extra pieces to get what is needed for the machine to work. Consider such a mainboard as a 3-in-1 - mainboard, sbc, 5v buck converter. Now imagine how much wiring you save.
All my newer builds (2nd mercury, tiny-t, pandora's box, and soon f-zero) use this setup, and trust me, I'm not looking back at the most convoluted Mercury in existence (my first build).

[proud cliff]

by the way, can the manta provide different 24-in to the various components, in a way to tun off every mcu and leaving only the integrated sbc on? I found this a very handy aspects of my installation

[frail swallow]

I very much agree, but was curious on your reasoning. Not having buck converters alone is the reason I bought my Octopus 1.1s.

[gentle garnet]

Not unless you defeat the whole purpose. You can choose to have the SBC site powered by 5v using USB-C, but I don't see the point

[proud cliff]

ok, no, I wouldn’t do that

[gentle garnet]

New builds with octopus make little sense when the manta m8p is in existence. It has mostly everything the octopus has, and if it doesn't have something - you don't need it. For example, the only thing "missing" from the Manta is a MAX amplifier chip; you won't need it since you're using a toolhead board. See my point?

[frail swallow]

Oh I've had these boards awhile. They're recycled from old builds. But before that they were SKR 2s.

[proud cliff]

maybe now that the rpi are slowly coming back for reasonable prices, I will get some cm4. For some reason I never liked the cb1/alternative. I know they are adequate, but it wasn’t enough to get me into it

[gentle garnet]

That's ok. This is purely my opinion. I know some cats like to make things more difficult then things should be (heck, I've been there!)

[stone valve]

on multiple boards, I'm running 3, 2 picos 1 thr

[gentle garnet]

Yes, I'm looking at you Mr. Docker container! 😆

[stone valve]

hey it's simple after its setup 🤣

[proud cliff]

Also I really enjoy play around with stuff… If I actually had to use my printer I would probably never did half of the things I tried 😂

[stone valve]

also Mr. Engineer Docker Container! I had to study this shit 😆

[gentle garnet]

That's fine dude, as long as it works for you. For me - getting things simple makes much more sense nowadays

[stone valve]

not getting offended 😉

[gentle garnet]

Oh I don't print anything on my machines. I just seem to collect them. It makes me happy..

[stone valve]

a side note on docker, it actually makes my life easy since I have a home server with a lot of stuff no extra hardware, might ditch it if I ever get a pi dedicated to the printer

[proud cliff]

I see for me it’s getting there as well, I really looking forward to close the builds, and my next one will be simple AF. I have been there, and you are right, multiplier boards, multiple psu, it’s a hell a lot of useless wiring

but I can’t ditch everything now, it has to be finished

[gentle garnet]

Home server.. brr this term makes me shiver a bit. I was a Windows Home Server user for a few years, back when I thought PCs were exciting

[stone valve]

ewwww Windows

[gentle garnet]

Yeah, was also a RedHat 4.0 user in '96, back when you actually needed to BUY the CD because broadband didn't exist

[proud cliff]

let’s get to try and remove some minifit crimps from the case 😓

[stone valve]

@gentle garnet I'm not even going to mention the distro I'm running

[proud cliff]

hoo, that lasted quite some years, I remember having a mini towers of CDs for Debian woody in the early 2000s, maybe 2004 🤔

[gentle garnet]

Mandrake, I know

😆

[stone valve]

wait wasn't it extinct?

[gentle garnet]

Of course it is.

[proud cliff]

mandrivia is now?

[gentle garnet]

...the best OS I've used? (except for macOS, of course)

IBM OS/2 Warp 3.0!

[stone valve]

ewww macos

[gentle garnet]

See, that's the same as running 5 boards in one printer and being happy about it 😜

[proud cliff]

You are underestimating it.. I moved from Gentoo to macOS, because I didn’t felt the dual boot was practical anymore… I didn’t struggled that much

[stone valve]

the board guy is @proud cliff

I can't use mac without feeling insulted by the system, last time I played with it I wanted to resize a partition, the system would say there was no space, boot linux fdisk and there it was a lot of free space

got pissed at it never touched it again

penguin land is more fun

[proud cliff]

I am still fond of useless-complexity, eg when my students came with a presentations made in beamer, it warms my hart, but they probably sucks 😂

[stone valve]

but we're getting sidetracked and invading @proud cliff log 🤐

[proud cliff]

ohh nooo!!

that’s never happens

[gentle garnet]

You're doing it wrong if you've reached a point when you needed to resize a partition. I get it, you want "control"? Well, don't use a Mac. unless... you want something to work for you instead of you working for it

[stone valve]

want to talk about useless complexity? I once learned about Java reflection, 1 fun year...

[stone valve]

that's the point, control found it on Gentoo maybe a little too much sometimes

[gentle garnet]

That's ok, again... Maybe, one day you'll get over it 🤣

[stone valve]

but like you said I'm happy with it so I'll keep going until I'm not hapoy

I won't say never, but unlikely, I'm too stubborn

[gentle garnet]

Things change... I'm feeling fine saying that because I've been there, done that, then made my mind... On lots of aspects 🙂

[stone valve]

I changed my mind on a lot of things as well, I'm a little ashamed to say this but I used to be all windows fan 😅

[proud cliff]

2.1.1 it’s up and running again

no can network issues whatsoever, even the occasional error during homing/z_tilt

I had to use the spare minifit connector/crimps, as I mangled the pins trying to remove them from the case. I decided just to start over 🤦‍♂️ and remove the connectors another time

but I like minifit, micro fit can’t be smaller than jst, so I’ll look into cheap kits/offers

[proud cliff]

@gentle garnet , sorry for bothering you, but with the new canbus, ebb42, I had some horrible stringing and the thermistor at cold nozzle reads 7C, while with the thr36 print quality was acceptable and the temp reading was ok also at room temperature… Fo I have to remove some jumper in the ebb? I don’t have any fancy chip in the boards (no max31865) but I have seen a pt1000 jumper 🤔

[gentle garnet]

No worries buddy 😀
You actually use a PT1000 RTD on your hotend?

If you do, set the jumper and add pullup_resistor: 2200 to your [extruder] section
That jumper adds a 4.12K resistor in parallel to the default 4.7k pullup resistor.

[proud cliff]

that the termistor that comes with the bambu, afaik it’s not a pt1000

[proud cliff]

thanks!

[gentle garnet]

It most definitely is not

[proud cliff]

I tried removing the jumper and the temperature readout got normal. I’m so dumb, I probably printed ASA at 300C, no wonder it got stringing

[gentle garnet]

Did you have the pullup_resistor defined in klipper?

[proud cliff]

huu, and the print also left a mark on the bed, so it must have been really really hot 🤦‍♂️

[proud cliff]

nope

[gentle garnet]

Then you definitely had the temperature measurement way off 😁

[proud cliff]

should I have the pullup_resistor set anyway?

[gentle garnet]

If you don't set the jumper - don't. Klipper defaults this entry to a value of 4700, which correlates with the 4.7kohm pullup resistor on the board.

...also you don't need to set that jumper unless you're using a temperature probe with smaller resistance (such as the PT1000).

On a sidenote, I wish I was able to shove a PT1000 into the hole in the hotend, but it seems to accept only their own thermistors, even other glass bead thermistors can't fit (I don't feel like modifying it)

[proud cliff]

a small tap🤔

[gentle garnet]

That hole is 1.4mm diameter and very close to the edge of the heat block, I don't have means to enlarge it

[proud cliff]

hopefully some manufacturers realize the form factor is working well, and makes some similar designs that accept off the shelf thermistors. the heating cartridge is a good idea, probably it’s going to be adopted by others as well

with the pt1000 jumper on (top) and without (bottom) 😅

[noble yacht]

https://a.aliexpress.com/_mLaCw0u

I didn’t put the text lol but triangle labs released this

And put this with it, should fit in the bambu clone hotend?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mOlpUJI

[proud cliff]

that looks very very nice!!!

[noble yacht]

Yea I have one of each sitting in my aliexpress cart

[proud cliff]

and they made already non-bambu-compatible bambu clones hotends
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mKUnsNi

with this one could use it on a vzbot nount as is, if it’s as light as the original hotend, the gantry would fly

[proud cliff]

tempted…. this hobby is crazy, gets you side tracked in details, and you’ll never be able to finish anything 😂

[noble yacht]

I have come to the realisation that my printer will probably never be “finished”. It will just be constant state of beta of all my mods lol

[frail swallow]

That's one reason I have two I'm working on...and a third I have yet to upgrade as a "just-in-case"

[gentle garnet]

I don't see how this throat is exciting? The clone hotend is tiny with a lower weight benfit, but then you are about to attach a regular heater block for going back to using a regular heater cartridge and common thermistor?

[gentle garnet]

You're looking at this wrong dude, the hotend will still be limited by the ~28mm^3/sec MVF, so unless you go lower layer height/smaller nozzle you're not going to print much faster even with the "gantry would fly" benefit.

[noble yacht]

It uses the flat heater pad but can use a normal beam style thermistor

[gentle garnet]

I see - I only opened the link to the bimetal throat. Still looks like a peculiar endeavor, and I'm not sure of the benefit it'll bring, apart for the use of a common thermistor cartridge.

[noble yacht]

That’s about it, looks around the same size of the bambu clone heatblock though.

[gentle garnet]

Well it has to be slightly larger, though probably not a concern in terms of weight.
However, the bambu hotend (and clones') embeds the tiny bead thermistor within the heatblock, whereas in this TL heatblock the thermistor is in the opposite side. Again not much of a concern, but one can expect a slightly lower accurate temperature reading.
Bottom line - for anyone who doesn't think of melting plastic above 290c - the clone is a proper solution. If one wants to melt plastic at temperatures above 300c, this definitely is not the product (and possibly not the correct printer/platform either).

[proud cliff]

sure, but less mass means less inertia, and maybe less ringing? the compensations are great, but it’s better if one need a little compensation vs a larger one

[gentle garnet]

I've not seen ringing in years... And let's agree your case is more favorable than mine.
Now, if you consider MVF, that will ultimately have a much higher impact on the actual print time than being able to move faster. A hotend capable of 30mm^3 will max out before reaching 400mm/s print speed (at 0.4/0.2), this is way lower than what your machine is capable of even today!

[solar bridge]

Quite a few are copying that heater element setup already

The new rapido uses it

The new dremel printer that is being developed uses it

[gentle garnet]

It's efficient, it's light and to top it up - it's safer. It won't melt heater blocks, unlike heater cartridges. Even 40W cartridge can potentially melt an aluminum block, given enough time, broken thermistor and broken firmware

[proud cliff]

working on the door, I think I am ready to actually measure what I need, the script generates top/bottom bezel (in the middles there is the glass), as well as a frame to attach to the enclosure. it's fully parametric, to the extent that if the bottom bezel is deeper than the magnets used, it will generate som filler in the top part

I don't know what the optimal thickness of plastic material between 2 magnets. I've set the default param to be 0.5mm (so the total thickness would be 1mm)

[proud cliff]

Are you suggesting that I need to buy a 40+mm3/s hotend?

[gentle garnet]

🤷🏻‍♂️

[proud cliff]

😛 honestly, I rarely max out the 20

just for the stupid speed benchy testosterone-driven competition that I'd get a super hotend

[gentle garnet]

There are a few who do, but most feel they need more better.
Personally, I’m off the fixation-on-numbers bandwagon

[proud cliff]

look a the annex K3, they use some "standard" HF hotend, and it's the faster printer I've even seen

[gentle garnet]

Honest question - what would you do with it if you had one?

[stone valve]

honest answer, stupid fast benchy just because 😆

[gentle garnet]

Sensible…

[stone valve]

I don't lie myself anymore

[gentle garnet]

Me neither. That’s why I have no problem admitting that I keep building 3D printers as a collection, and not for any other purpose.

[proud cliff]

bragging on discord about it… because nowhere else people would get the brag

[stone valve]

very true

outside the 3D Prinnting community nobody cares

[gentle garnet]

Oh that works. No big deal..
Imagine the look I’m getting when I tell “normal people” that I built my 5th machine

[proud cliff]

but I guess it’s more appealing the showing a big fat hotend, people would think I’m trying to compensate for something

[gentle garnet]

Lol

[stone valve]

just the description "big fat"

[gentle garnet]

It going to lie, it does raise an interest but the next question I get is why, and the next question is how much money I make out of this.
OBVIOUSLY… I don’t have a proper answer to either. 😆 just because doesn’t work in my circles, and saying that I’m earning nothing from it makes it even worse

[stone valve]

they just think you're wasting money

[gentle garnet]

Ok so the worst people are the fakers. They appear to show interest at first so you think you found someone you’re going to get on board, but then you realize they only do it because they are polite 😆

[stone valve]

man that sucks

they get you all excited about it

but then nope

[gentle garnet]

Right???

It’s like being 16 all over again and being turned down by someone 🤣😆😁

[stone valve]

🤣

[proud cliff]

imagine put a price to the machine you build… I don’t understand -and I’m skeptic it’s not a sort of scam- those that resell built printers (talking v0, v2.4…) for slightly more money than a cheap kit from ali

in the local marketplace… I’m talking about

[gentle garnet]

People ask me how come I don't sell the ones I don't use. Simply because I feel I can't (won't) sell any of my machines because I invest much more than money on them.

[stone valve]

I successfully sold the original ender, just packaged it today

but its a different thing

the merc hell no

[gentle garnet]

Even that I can't do. First - can't justify investing the time to build it from scratch. Second - it's impossible for me to build a lousy printer, so I'll have to invest some money on upgrades to begin with. Third - after investing time and money I won't be able to sell it and I'll have to keep it. So... I keep it - safe, in the parts bin.

[proud cliff]

so the HT3.96 is too big

I don’t think it will go through

[stone valve]

sadly no

I might have some compatible connnectors now that I think about it

[proud cliff]

maybe 3.81 connectors 😂. why they have to make such tiny difference

I can’t judge a 0.1mm difference by eyeballing

[proud cliff]

so magnet size was nailed, I had to press hard, so it’s a tight fit

also the magnet placement in the various pieces is spot on, those are 2 pieces hold together by 4 magnets (I had some issues in the test print as you can see)

talking about drying filament my asa went all hissing and vaping

[proud cliff]

I should dry the filament more often, 6h in the filament dryer (the not perfect, but better than nothing), from 60% to 17% RH. the new print came out perfectly

[frail swallow]

I need to bust out my dryer

[proud cliff]

I had some second thought about the door frame, it holds together because it clamps on the glass, but maybe I should also bind the neighbours pieces... I code a puzzle jig, it would look funny 😂

[stone valve]

oh dear

why do you must make your life harder

[frail swallow]

Make a different pattern for joint, so they only fit in one order. LOL

[proud cliff]

it’s fun 😂

[proud cliff]

I just added a small cylinder shape of center, so a side will have it protruding and the other will have a matching hole

[proud cliff]

it works!

but 1) I still have issues with the filament and 2) I have to rethink the counterbore helper tricks and maybe reduce the fillets, those 2 things together (in the corner) didn’t play well

[proud cliff]

@frail swallow you know better about design, do you think the artefact I get all around the fillet it's because the holes are interfering at the base of the overhang, or it's just some printing setting I should adjust?

or the overhang was too steep, maybe

[stone valve]

seems like a overhang issue

higher cooling on the overhangs might help

how steep is that angle

[proud cliff]

hmm, I've reduce it already, let me see how it was before

it doesn't look that extreme to me

but it will print in mid air close to the holes

So I hope by reducing like this would help

also I was lazy an I sent it without fix for the counterbore, it works, not nice but it does it

[stone valve]

a lot better

[frail swallow]

It's not what you expect: you're using a fillet instead of a chamfer. Fillets only work well on vertical or top surfaces.

If it touches the build plate: use a chamfer

[stone valve]

fillet works as long as its not too extreme

[frail swallow]

Fussing with the counterbore will help, too

[frail swallow]

Yes and no. To get it to work, it has to be small enough to be close to a chamfer.

To keep the overhang from getting to far out, basically, so a chamfer is just always a safe choice

[proud cliff]

hmm, haven't managed to make the chmafer attr to work... maybe I'll have a look at it

ok, it wasn't that hard, I can see with a chamfer is less busy when it meet the vertical fillets

and it seems safe to print, true, thanks @frail swallow . It's fancier with the fillet, but if it doesn't prints nicely its not so useful 😜

[solar bridge]

Fillets facing the bottom never print nice

Unless they are small, like 1mm

[proud cliff]

that was 10mm fillet

[frail swallow]

no wonder, lol

I can't sense scale from the screenshots, so I didn't know

[proud cliff]

me neither I have to print the stuff to see how it does 😂

[frail swallow]

Give it time and practice and you'll be able to guess more easily how stuff will print.

Okay, gotta run errands. Good luck today.

[solar bridge]

Also fillet then corner than apply the chamfer

[stone valve]

way too big

I have successfully printed 2mm but I never create parts with big fillets

[proud cliff]

I mean, it could have worked if I was printing it the other way around

[solar bridge]

Yup

But doesn't work when it is an overhang

[proud cliff]

ok, defeat, I'll try later. So adding anything around a hole with the python API is cumbersome, because they are defined as unfillable holes. I've exported the step, but can add anything around the counterbore in the correct way 😂

[frail swallow]

Are you wanting it to print those overhangs nicely around the holes?

Or, put differently, would it help if I added them for you?

[proud cliff]

oh yeah, I put the step just hoping some kind soul would come to the rescue… but ultimately I want to learn how to do it. I was planning to follow MakerMuse steps in a tutorial/video 😅

[frail swallow]

What if you make the counterbore, then the overhangs, then finish drilling the hole?

How to define the lines, step by step

P.S.

[proud cliff]

I think I know the theory, but I’m lacking the skills in fusion or other cad tools to understand/find the right tool 😅

[stone valve]

if you're using that python lib it might be very doable to write a function for it

[frail swallow]

Exactly. Given outer diameter and inner diameter, it spits out four lines

[stone valve]

I might be able to help with that (even though I hate python)

[frail swallow]

I have to ask...why do you hate Python?

[stone valve]

indentation is what defines if something is inside a scope

I like my brackets

write without worrying about formatting IDE does it

[frail swallow]

I'm giggling. I thought you'd say something about the global interlock.

[stone valve]

and the fact that it calls none to null

and the correct way to compare to null is " variable is none" not "variable == null"

[proud cliff]

I have to try and redesign my script not to use “unfillable” holes, so I could add materials in the hole

It’s easy to start, but than there are a milion details 😅

[stone valve]

I like the whole openscad approach as in doing it as code but for CAD I'm too visual

[proud cliff]

you know, it could be much much much worse, R I’m looking at you!

but R is not a language, so…

[frail swallow]

See, I was thinking C++ and void/void_t/NULL/'\0' and so on...

[proud cliff]

I don’t worry about the formatting, I use black to format the script for me

the code, I love black, it removes all the waste of time thinking about how to indent and format nicely stuff

[stone valve]

not if you want to say what's inside a certain if statement

that's my complaint

(sorry Java has given me some habits)

same with Kotlin

[proud cliff]

I simply hate Java, it’s so convoluted. I like python because you just start in 30min you have an half backed proof of concept, it might not be the perfect tool for everything, but you can do everything

[frail swallow]

Don't try C++, lol

I like Python for the same reason

[proud cliff]

I did 🤦‍♂️

[stone valve]

Java has improved a lot, it can even run a file like python

java whatever.java

yes still needs a class and the good old public static void main....

IIRC also has a REPL

[proud cliff]

hahaha, there is no way to contain the memory consumption of java programs sent to the cluster pbs queue, eg you want to only use 8gb, and instead it takes all 256Gb of the node… the only way would be to have docker and limit the memory in the docker runtime, but the cluster doesn’t support docker.. 😓🤬😅

[stone valve]

-Xmx and Xms

just force it to

[proud cliff]

so every time there is a tool running java there is the danger of it hijacking the node, and kill every other job

[proud cliff]

nope

[stone valve]

has to work I have limited memory consumption even in giant kubernetes clusters

[proud cliff]

i suspect it might be a pbs java thing, they just don’t like each other

[stone valve]

there's another flag for another piece of memory that's virtually unlimited

[stone valve]

might be

permgen or metaspace depending on version

[proud cliff]

I’ll try!!

It would save some money.. it isn’t cheap to rent a full 256Gb node just because java doesn’t care about other programs

[stone valve]

feel free to DM me about that as long as you can control java arguments it can be done

[proud cliff]

A lot of todos, I need to design a mount for the camera pcb, I feel I like a view 45 degrees angled down, from the top-right of the enclosure, however I like how I can see the nozzle in the current location (front bar)

but the camera there is just awkward for closing the door

[stone valve]

@proud cliff hows the heating on the new toolboard

[proud cliff]

once I configured it correctly (correctly type of thermistor and removed the pt1000 jumper) it’s perfect

[stone valve]

I mean the mcu on it

[proud cliff]

ahhh

[proud cliff]

it’s cool

it was definitely either the terminal or something in the pcb

the stm32 runs cooler than rp2040, apparently

[proud cliff]

thanks @frail swallow , the counterbore printed perfectly, and also the chamfer worked out very nicely

I had issues on my top layer, but we are not going to see that too much 😝

also the 🧩 thing, they click perfectly within each other, now I only need to make also the straight pieces, prints some more in different colors, cut the panel and assemble the door

and close the backpack

and care the wiring

and make the camera mount

🤦‍♂️. I’ll never finish

[frail swallow]

You'll get there