#Ender 5 To Mercury One.1

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proud cliff
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printing the rack “extruder” right now.. I wonder if I can fit the old ender 5 extruder motor

stone valve
proud cliff
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I think I can use the cheap clone gears because to try to make it better I got a “hollowed out” pom gear, to replace the thick one. I can now say that that combination worked ok. So in my expense the 50t gear is probably crap in the cloned set

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cheap-cloned set

proud cliff
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popcorn watching the mainsail stream, waiting for a fail at any minute

proud cliff
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I didn’t want to go hydra at the beginning, because I had a double z mod. but hydra was hands down the best upgrade I could have done to this printer. I probably would have been happy with the stock kinematic and hydra (of course, printing “slow” at 200mm/s is nice though)

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I was waiting for mellow to ship my stuff in November, and I endedup printing hydra parts… than the fysetc hydra bed was in discount….

sleek oar
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50t

proud cliff
frail swallow
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Looks sharp, too

stone valve
proud cliff
stone valve
proud cliff
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3do sell bondtech original gears, since Sweden is just next door

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I’m using a cheap set of gears in the rack now, but the 50t is original bmg. the one I got with the cloned set was just incredibly bad

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now, if only my kids will leave me alone for a stretch of half hour or so I could attempt to print an astronaut, make a video and get the serial 😬

frail swallow
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Good luck! Get that first serial!

stone valve
proud cliff
stone valve
proud cliff
# stone valve why

because I can't edit the video in yt directly as I assumed I could... I took several short ones and I have no clue how to do this 😛

stone valve
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oh there are apps for that on android

solar bridge
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I just look a long video and cut out sections

proud cliff
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almost there

image0.jpg
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toddler woke up and I’m sure he’ll make in a way that I’ll miss the final 30 sec to wrap up the video

stone valve
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you don't need the full print

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mine was like a 60sec segment of a stacktocat

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love to see my custom purge

proud cliff
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done, video processing… but I’ll be too late for 2.1.1

IMG_8686.jpg
stone valve
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you never know

proud cliff
stone valve
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@proud cliff congrats

frail swallow
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Seconded!

proud cliff
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thanks! I have never done multicolor, but this would look nice

image.png
gleaming trout
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Time for a bambu 😉

stone valve
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I'm holding printing my serial because of that

proud cliff
# stone valve one more reason to finish that tradrack

yes, I'd have to stop it and change it manually... no way. it's also a nice test print, something to justify building another tool to make something :P.... now I have to build a CNC machine so I can make the missing M5x40mm dowel pin

stone valve
proud cliff
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it's crazy how dowel pins are impossible to find on amazon in europe. I have to order from US or Ali!

stone valve
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things have been arriving quickly

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(2 weeks)

proud cliff
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I don't believe it thouhg... I'll go on the local hardware store (bauhaus) and browse if there is something like a dowel pins they just don't call it that and make it impossible to find...

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same with micro fit 3, I have plenty of jst. If I look for microFit3 kit on amazon it just shows me jst kit instead! 😩

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I have dupont, despite me hating it, so I can skip the microfit for now. A kit with 480 microFit3 pieces cost 50 euros? is that expansive?

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I would use jst but they really require the 4 connectors 2x2 not 4x1

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@frail swallow I feel you are a microFit3 enthusiast. Are they so much better than regular jst-sm?

frail swallow
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To clarify: they come in larger combinations, are more compact, and (I think) just as easy to crimp.

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Comparisons:

  • JST SM gives a more confident "click" connection, Micro Fit gives a higher quality connection.
  • JST SM is limited to 3A, Micro Fit goes to 5A
  • JST SM gets really bulky once you get past 4 pins; a 12-pin Micro Fit is the same size.
  • JST SM is dirt cheap. Micro Fit is expensive unless you go Ali and then it's more affordable.
stone valve
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I have burned through 50e on 2.5mm² silicone wire just to not need it now with a 230v bed, along with a lot of microfit those things are expensive

frail swallow
stone valve
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also @frail swallow finally used the iwiss to crimp, that thing is awesome

proud cliff
frail swallow
frail swallow
proud cliff
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I have my array of tools to crimp

stone valve
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the right tool makes a difference too

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and finger size

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rj45 are worse

proud cliff
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scissor to remove the eccess of metal flags (the one holding on the silicon/sleeve), a plier to quickly pre crimp the wire on the sleeve, and than very carefully crimp the actual thing...

stone valve
frail swallow
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Uh oh. FIGHT!

stone valve
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aligning 8 wires in the correct order is painful

frail swallow
stone valve
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after a few dozens you get the hang and almost make them blindfolded

proud cliff
frail swallow
stone valve
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interesting I find it easier to hold it with the sleeve side open

proud cliff
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wait a pic... it's a cheap one

frail swallow
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Just curious what you use. I love my Iwiss, even though I bought a JST SM crimper.

proud cliff
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I have to be careful how much I press on the small one, yeah I know I’m doing it wrong: so first crimp is in the middle teeth, than I pass it again on the first teeth but without going all the way. so I know it was tight. check any white stain on the sleeve, give a good pull, if all ok pass to the next

nimble lion
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I use PA24 for my molex

proud cliff
solar bridge
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I hate the ratchet crimpers for jst/dupont

gleaming trout
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Really I love them. We’ll just the first click. Then useless Helps to hold in place

proud cliff
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i wish there was a jig you could prompt you wire, the connector to crimp, and it automatically does the job 😅. I have sausage fingers and I’m half blind and it feels every time I do a small change there is something to crimp again, and again 😅

stone valve
proud cliff
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issue is that the lenses are so powerful that I struggle when I close up… without lenses I can only see close up 😝

stone valve
stone valve
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perfect vision close up

proud cliff
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I guess after the -6 is all the same blurr

stone valve
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heh it gets worse

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I have been slowly increasing

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once met a guy with -21 he was like a mole without glasses

proud cliff
stone valve
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you can always invest in a magnifier

proud cliff
stone valve
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I want free lenses

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my left one got a damn fungus eating it right at the begining of covid due to damn confinements there were nearly no doctors, could have lost an eye 😑

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I can still see but with some slight degradation that can't be fixed with lenses

zinc needle
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Anyone up for some voice?

stone valve
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not atm

zinc needle
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😮 posted in the wrong channel lol

proud cliff
stone valve
proud cliff
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and I think they hit me in the eye/head that’s why I had that mess to start with… kids are the worst, I got 10y older in the last one

stone valve
elder pumice
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for any CANbus users, which wire should I purchase?

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I think I should go with 20awg wires because my hotend uses 115W, but I couldn't find any twisted canbus wires at all on aliexpress

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ah wrong chanel for me too :V

solar bridge
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Rapido only pulls 115w at a very cold temp, once it hits 70c its only pulling around 70 watts. The hotter it gets the less power it draws.

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But I run 20 for power amd 24 for signal

elder pumice
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did you make your own cable?

proud cliff
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also I limited the rapido power to 60%, and it’s mire than enough. it’s super fast

proud cliff
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I use 20 for power and 26 for signal… I actually have some random error during homing, But I don’t think is due to the wire size 🤔

frail swallow
elder pumice
elder pumice
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if you're having no problem and using fine, lmk

frail swallow
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Shielding = twisted! Make sure your data pairs are twisted and power pairs twisted

elder pumice
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just normal wires?

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is being twisted enough

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I was talking about foil/meshs whithin the wire so

frail swallow
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yep. That's all phone cable is. Twisted pairs.

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Ahh, no you don't need that kind of shielding integrity, though it won't hurt anything. Just not needed.

elder pumice
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nice to know that

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so 20/24awg pair?

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I'm looking forward to use chc pro/ 2 5015/ led so..

frail swallow
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Yep. As long as it's got a good twist, it should be fine.

elder pumice
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I still think it would be enough but I want to be safe

frail swallow
elder pumice
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wait wha-

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why did you twist all the cables?

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oh and

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can you recommend any connector sets?

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I do have a dupont/terminal crimping set but I have no idea where to source those connectors for motor/thermister etc

frail swallow
proud cliff
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the terminal on the board are usually just jst

frail swallow
elder pumice
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and btw

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are terminals /connectors required inclueded in ebb36 set?

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@frail swallow @proud cliff

frail swallow
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I was pleasantly surprised.

elder pumice
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oh wait

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well thats good

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I don't need to buy em then

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xD

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btw my bearings arrived

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so time to start building

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and they are stiff af

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ono

proud cliff
elder pumice
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should I re lube my bearings?

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I do have a ultrasonic cleaner

frail swallow
elder pumice
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no the flange bearings

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if I spelled it correctly

frail swallow
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yep, that's correct. 🙂

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but you probably don't. Some IPA on the rods and cleanup, the relube with sewing machine oil (or equivalent). Just run the bearings up and down the rod while it has IPA on it to get work the fluid through the bearings.

elder pumice
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I just yoinked it in the ultrasonic bath

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lol

solar bridge
frail swallow
elder pumice
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oh it was a ipa bath

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99%

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wd 40 ain't good right?

frail swallow
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wd 40 is not a good lubricant for machines

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FYI: be careful with IPA in the ultrasonic. Generally safest to put IPA in a bag in water in case of a short.

elder pumice
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I used spindle oil

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oh it's in a ziploc bag

frail swallow
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Or at least it is commercially.

elder pumice
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should I soak the bearings overnight or sth

frail swallow
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nah. you're super clean by now, lol

elder pumice
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I did buy the cheapest bearing I could find so

proud cliff
elder pumice
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btw what's the rapido's rated wattage?

frail swallow
frail swallow
elder pumice
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isn't there hf and uhf version?

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default rapido uses 110W peak?

frail swallow
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tbh, not sure. We should probably dip out of here and into #general-chat or another channel, though. This is technically @proud cliff's build log. 🙂

elder pumice
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true xD

proud cliff
solar bridge
frail swallow
solar bridge
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maybe that chart will change your mind

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only takes a few seconds to hit 50c, then its pulling the same power as most hotends, or less

frail swallow
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3A at 50C that's super fine.

solar bridge
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also says no firmware power limiting

frail swallow
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Now I want a Rapido, lol.

proud cliff
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so I’ll remove the 0.6 and pid tune again 😝… After trying the nf crazy the rapido gained my respect. I just waiting for a new heatsink body… currently running with 2 screws out of 3 (I destroyed 1 m2.5 hole trying to remove a screw that broke into it

solar bridge
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Phaetus used to have that image on their website, but they removed it from the rapido product page for some reason. But Fabreeko still has it.

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strange that they removed it, cause 115w to a hotend is a lot of power... seeing this chart puts your mind at ease.

opal vapor
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hi, what endstop are you using on your x? the gray piece?

proud cliff
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the gray piece is basically just a rail stop with a flat wall to make the endstop clik properly

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it’s all stock as suggested from the bom

opal vapor
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right that rail stop is what im looking for

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been driving me nuts lol

proud cliff
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also I did remove the endstop from the pcb because I have a bag of those for spares, back in the ender 5 days. If I had to buy new I’d take those sold without board

opal vapor
proud cliff
# solar bridge strange that they removed it, cause 115w to a hotend is a lot of power... seeing...

and you know, you might have solved my poor flow situation. the extruder was skipping steps after a little bit after reaching ~20mm3 for a little bit. now it seems better. I have to test this, but my theory is that obviously pushing more cold plastic in, the hotend needs more power to keep up. being the power limited to 60%, it can’t stay hot enough for long to reliably push this fast the plastic out

stone valve
elder pumice
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hey @proud cliff I guess you're missing a washer at those X/Y M5×8 screws which is holding the extrusion, can you confirm?

frail swallow
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the CAD model has a washer there. I used lock washers, though.

proud cliff
solar bridge
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The washer is just too prevent the bolt from bottoming out in the 2020

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I wouldn't use a lock washer on printed parts though.

proud cliff
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I mean, I can add the 1mm thick m5 washer I used for the flanges…

proud cliff
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test fitting the side panel. I just got around to glue some of the spacers, I miss the spacers for the Y extrusions, but I have to cutout some for the y endstop, and I prefer to be really really precise on those, not to interfere with the gantry movement. Next install the side panels to sign where to send, and take measure for the back panel

IMG_8728.jpg IMG_8727.jpg
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I just have a jigsaw, don’t judge the shaky cuts 😅

stone valve
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for a jigsaw

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its great

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I can only get straight cuts with a tablesaw or a circular one with a track to follow

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round perfect stuff only with a router and template 😆

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you might want to get a blade with thinner teeth maybe

proud cliff
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my first idea was to take some thicker wood and use a router to dig the track for the rails of the y axis…. but I don’t have a router, and also never used one so….

stone valve
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routers are dangerous

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(says he with one)

gleaming trout
proud cliff
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1st quick attempt to install a side panel. I started with making 2 holes bottom right and top left, square the panel to the frame, sign and make the other 2 corners. it did go half bad; first 2 holes spot on, than I managed to not make a hole where I signed and so i have to re-attempt. But I got the idea how hard it would be to install-remove each panel. it’s not easy

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also there is no guarantee that the t nuts installed, wood on aluminium, will not crack a little, making the frame a little lose. I’ll add a greenhouse gasket between the wood and the frame, but I should install washers on the bolts heads

stone valve
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washers on screw heads should be enough

proud cliff
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so, I was bugged because the hydra chain was always snapped off the printed when lowering z too much. it turns out, my chain was too long. I’ve removed 4 pieces (I was planning for 2 but to my surprise -4 was still long enough), and now it seems it doesn’t snap off when lowering z

IMG_8741.jpg
proud cliff
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But still, it should actually stay straight, without banding to the side at all. I remember the original pic from @zinc needle, the chain wasn’t sagging at all. Should I print the chain latching with other settings/material?

zinc needle
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If you want the quick fix you can glue it

proud cliff
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I need to stop to “work from home”. setup the panels (didn’t finish yet). The goal was to damp the noise, not make a drum box. it’s actually louder now, but I have to add the gasket betwwen the frame and the wood (it's not really wood, sorry wood) and fill with noise absorbing material (and maybe sand to round the corners to make it look nicer)

IMG_8745.jpg
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the back, front and top will be covered also, so maybe the noise will go once fully enclosed

proud cliff
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it's basically an enclosure project on the opposite spectrum of @frail swallow one, where he carefully plan and draw in the cad I cut 2 panels with a jigsaw, bolt it to the frame and sandpaper it to measure 😂

solar bridge
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Umm your bed wires are coming out the wrong side of the chain/bracket

stone valve
frail swallow
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Oh, I see what TC is talking about. That's why it's breaking when Z gets low. Fixed end should be the bottom.

proud cliff
solar bridge
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I meant at the bottom

proud cliff
solar bridge
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Every wire should exit through the chain

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Do not run wires out of the chain like that

proud cliff
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that's why. I had the chain with the end swapped before, I basically just changed the connector and not the wires path

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funny that I printed that thing twice, I though I had it printed wrong/too weak

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that was an easy fix

IMG_8746.jpg
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much cleaner even

solar bridge
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Chain looks to short?

proud cliff
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probably, I just removed 4 links 😂

solar bridge
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Or maybe your wires are just too stiff for the chain

proud cliff
stone valve
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add some links

proud cliff
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probably not this link 🤦‍♂️

IMG_8738.jpg
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if I don’t update the log for a while, you know what happened

stone valve
nimble lion
proud cliff
# nimble lion GOOD game

I’ve seen trolling reviews complaining that it was the same as BOTW… I don’t know what’s wrong with that!! plus, it seems even better

nimble lion
proud cliff
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After measuring how to deal with the back plate, I am unsure what to do. My original plan was to use 1 single piece ~420x800, and cut out some squares for the motor and bold everything to the frame and the side panels. But, the motors would be half in half out... Maybe I can rip off @frail swallow (sorry I keep dragging you in my log) solution how to enclose out the motors, and mix it in with my side panels 🤔

stone valve
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@proud cliff you can either add extrusions behind and pull the motors out so they're completely out (with some gaps needed for belts) or move them in and lose travel

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there's a mod for that

frail swallow
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What I did was like @stone valve's first suggestion: added another 2020 extrusion to the rear and mount the steppers to that. But I would recommend using 40mm longer extrusions for the Y axis (where the Y linear rails go) and moving it out a little further to avoid the wall notches I had to create (see picture).

image.png
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I can actually give you a Misumi part code that includes the blind joints if you want to order them. Just lmk.

proud cliff
frail swallow
proud cliff
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hmm, looking cheap (~40€)!! 5 tmc drivers. I think I can still use usb to can bridge

image0.jpg
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I also like the large heatsink

stone valve
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not a bad price at all

proud cliff
# stone valve not a bad price at all

there are no neopixel pins, but I’m reading you could use the bltouch pins. there are 3 thermistors, the wifi, I have no idea if it can be used. only 2 fans though… They really implemented the basic and not overdoing. it would be perfect for hydra + canboard on the toolhead. I’m really tempted

stone valve
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wifi I think is more a duet thing not sure how it interacts with klipper

proud cliff
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I wonder what "reserved I/O" means. it means they are there but I can't use it? If I buy this board it all depends if I can use PD0/PD1 😄

image.png image.png image.png
stone valve
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on the schematic I can only find io1

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and pins don't match those

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am I reading the right onw

gentle garnet
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PD0 and PD1 are linked to TMC_SCLK and TMC_MISO. I don't know if you will succeed in running CAN over these pins.
Come on dude, there is absolutely no reason to buy this 2 years old board. It's bottom of the barrel.

proud cliff
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actually the perfect board is actually out there, the btt skrat seems ti check all the boxes. Only thing I really like the big heatsink of the skr pico and skr mini v3. And this eagle board seems to have something similar with an additional driver

solar bridge
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Over heard mainly bad things about the makerbase boards. But have been happy with the thr36 so far

proud cliff
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just the board in an unbranded cardboard box

proud cliff
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waiting for this, 20€ (8€ are just for the shipping only… dk to dk 🤦‍♂️) for 3m of cable. I am not sure it will be ok

image0.jpg
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I am a bit confused about the 120 Ohm description

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there was also the 2x2xawg20 version, slightly more expansive, but I think it might be too thick. 3A rating on the toolhead should be enough, also awg22 is what I have now and it’s working fine

stone valve
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120ohm is the resistors you need on the can ends IIRC

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yep I would say the wire includes resistor

images.png
frail swallow
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On most CAN boards you can disable the resistor if needed

gentle garnet
# stone valve yep I would say the wire includes resistor

Absolutely not. 120 Ohm is the cable's rated impedance. Due to the relatively high frequency of the CAN signals, they resemble more an RF signal (or alternating signal) rather than plain DC voltage, and is affected by resistance, inductance and capacitance. It is recommended to match the impedance of the cable to that of the circuit.
Trust me - If you measure resistance with a multimeter you won't see 120 Ohms, you will see infinity for open line and very low resistance on short circuit.

stone valve
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the can master has spoken

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I'll shut up

gentle garnet
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Btw, an interesting tidbit for those of you who like to chuck their wires on a cordless drill and twist it - this is a sure way to alter the impedance, for example of a stepper motor harness, which doesn't really work the same as a DC motor principle.
How much this affects its operation - I cannot tell but I'm sure there's a study that can be found somewhere.

stone valve
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honestly if it's to be twisted I think it's better to find them pre twisted

gentle garnet
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Indeed, because you don't really know what's the correct TPI (twists per inch) a cable requires to reach a certain impedance, and it isn't trivial to measure

stone valve
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but then by observation even bought pre twisted might not be consistent

gentle garnet
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A CAT-5E cable, for example, has different amounts of twists on each pair, but still within a 15 Ohm tolerance. Break the cable's impedance and you can only dream about reaching 1Gbit over 100 meters.

stone valve
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ohhhh

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that's what I was going to say

gentle garnet
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CAT-5 impedance is 100 ohm, btw. Not very far from the recommended 120 of CAN,

stone valve
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some pairs have tighter twists

gentle garnet
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With that said, I'm using non twisted cables on my CAN stuff and it works. The same as I never bought a $200 RCA monster cable when home theater started popping up, and strangely, I could still hear sylvester stallone's weapons quite well 😆

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The analogy is about the same, just so you get the idea..

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In an industrial capacity I wouldn't even dare thinking about using non-preterminated and rated cables, but for hobby grade - I'd even attempt to run it over cotton string with two plastic cups, just for the sake of experiment.

proud cliff
# gentle garnet Btw, an interesting tidbit for those of you who like to chuck their wires on a c...

For the stepper motor I use silicone wires, and they don’t tolerate drill twisting, so I did only some loose twist on those. the can wire on the other hand it’s pretty tight. I checked the can network after my usual cans errors and I can’t see any obvious culprit, no errors in the network, all the mcu received/sent some data. But I did noticed that the error occurs always at a specific corner of the bed, so I think it’s a simple wiring issue (given how hard it is to put wires in the thr36 terminals and my cable is not stiff/compact enough to have a nice strain relief)

proud cliff
gentle garnet
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I am convinced, based on the experience I have while tinkering, as well as general knowledge in electronics, that most CAN bus related woes people experience are not due to incorrect cable being used, but rather due to connection and termination issues.

Klipper isn't built to tolerate packet losses on the CAN network, at least not in a way we are used to when we deal with telecommunication in our daily lives. If the internet worked that way we could not have communicate at all. You'd never be able to watch a movie on youtube or have a cellular call without it dropping.

gentle garnet
proud cliff
proud cliff
gentle garnet
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Something similar happens to me sometimes with the reverse bowden. However, for this comparison, when there's a filament starvation you can observe a slight under-extrusion... But when the CAN signal (or power..) is disrupted, more often then not, klipper will completely shutdown and leave you with frustration.

From this aspect, the XT30+2 connector performs much more reliably that the Microfit 3, even with barely any strain relief.
Had you used a board with a microfit terminal, I would advised you to purchase a genuine Molex overmolded cable.

proud cliff
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I tell myself next time I desolder the thing and install a new terminal, but I always forget to look the specific and buy the connector

gentle garnet
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These are screw terminals with 2.5mm pitch, correct?

gentle garnet
solar bridge
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I don't hate the screw terminals, they are just too small for proper sized ferrules

proud cliff
proud cliff
solar bridge
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I don't think mine has had a disconnect yet

proud cliff
solar bridge
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Can't recall if I ended up using ferrules or bare wire

proud cliff
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overall I’m really happy about the thr, if the process passes the tilt adjust it never failed so far

gentle garnet
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I suggest you definitely stock up on spares these boards. This thing is way to important to have no spares - my opinion..
Plus... they are designed as mildly disposable/self destructing after a while, so...

solar bridge
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Does it only fail during probing?

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If so it might be a frequency issue

proud cliff
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yes, and at a specific corner, the 3rd probing

gentle garnet
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What do you see on the CAN MCU's bytes_retransmit and bytes_invalid?

solar bridge
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When I first setup can I used a can hat. Had to run my klicky to the main board. The can hat couldn't handle the data

proud cliff
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I tried 500k, than I adjusted the klipper code to increase the timeout, it seemed to have fixed it. Than I’ve increased the baudrate to 1M, and the issue came up again

gentle garnet
solar bridge
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I've never heard of someone running that high

proud cliff
proud cliff
solar bridge
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Maybe you should go back to 500k since that was working?

gentle garnet
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The cats over at the voron community claim 1Mbit is recommended. That's a total BS. I run 4 CAN devices over 250K, albeit without attempting to run input shaper (I know it'll fail since not only the toolhead's ADXL is over CAN, but also the 2 motors)

proud cliff
gentle garnet
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IS is better when the accelerometer is strategically placed and runs over SPI or USB. The accelerometer in all of these boards is just a novelty.

solar bridge
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Why would input shaper improve? Can is only on the tool head?

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Or are you using the on board adxl for some reason

proud cliff
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500k was already “working” meaning the test completed. I don’t know if by increasing to 1M I get better accuracy or what not

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it debatable if I would ever finish to work on my printer though 😂

proud cliff
#

I felt asleep and I didn’t noticed the back warping 🤦‍♂️, a lot of wasted filament on a otherwise nice print

IMG_8768.jpg
stone valve
#

Sucks, I hate wasting filament

proud cliff
#

maybe also the front warped, by a fraction of mm. it’s better to try to print this on a proper enclosure.

#

my top chamber temperature was ~34C. So not crazy. But after I have NOT printed for few days I’m also having some bed adhesion issue. the auto offset resulted in a -[2.59~2.62] rage, while it used to be below -2.65. It might be different weather conditions (we are enjoying summer here), but after the bed is at 100C, I don’t think env humidity and pressure might influence it

stone valve
#

curiously we're supposed to be in summer mode and yet we're expecting a storm

#

Don't forget to wash the bed my latest adhesion issues have been due to that

proud cliff
stone valve
#

north Europe I'm aware it's a lot

#

I don't miss summer though, 40c is no fun

proud cliff
stone valve
#

I have seen people recommend a slight scratch even on PEI with the of those dishwashing sponges (the abrasive usually green side)

proud cliff
#

@stone valve, completely OT, do you also have an electric car? I remember you talking about solar panels charging your car 😅

stone valve
proud cliff
# stone valve yup

Nice! we were considering adding some panels for charging, but it would not be very convenient in the short term (2 cars all electric here, 41 and 75 kWh)

stone valve
#

for us works in the summer because it's just 1 car and it's at home during most days

#

in case of a long trip we eat from the grid up to 50 or 60% (75kWh battery) and the next 2 days solar filla to 80

#

4kWh of panels for reference

#

also you need some kind of automation to start stop charging when you have solar excess

#

feel free to DM if you want to exchange some ideas

stone valve
#

@proud cliff not sure if you're still looking at that maker base board but this is relevant #electronics message

#

Aka wifi won't work

proud cliff
# stone valve <@261571630109556746> not sure if you're still looking at that maker base board ...

thanks, I am looking those wifi slots more as pins to use for something else rather than actually use wifi :). I think I made peace with myself that my setup works as is, I’ll possibly swap the board around, since they are connected via can I can use the board driving AB upper in the build, eg beiind the tophat enclosure: use the extra thermistors for getting A/B motors temps as well use the 2 spare drivers for the tradrack mmu

#

so I’ll have more free space in the bay (my primary goal when looking fa or a new board) and simplify the wiring

proud cliff
#

I was adamant to waste more filament and not wait for a better enclosure (also I think I have to revisit the thermistor I use to get chamber temp… later). So I sliced increasing the temp to 265 (and later to 275 on mainsail, you can clearly see when I did that by the discoloration), increase fan to 40% and lower the switch offset by 0.01mm

IMG_8775.jpg
#

at least no warping

#

so now I don’t really know what did the trick, but I think the higher temperature (265 was enough) might be the thing that avoided warping

solar bridge
#

Still warped at the back under the cable chain. But should work just fine

#

Good looking print other than that small lift

proud cliff
#

also, @solar bridge , am I too close now?

IMG_8779.jpg
solar bridge
#

Might need some elephant foot comp

#

I use around .1 I think

proud cliff
#

it is at the limit of a “nice” first layer when I print a square, I can get nicer looking layers if I lift the nozzle, but than some lines don’t stick on the bed during a print (eg the skirt might get loose …), it’s a bit of an hit or miss. Also I’ve noticed a much stronger adhesion within layer when slightly squashing it: If I tear the square by hand I have clear tears, squishing in it need much more strength and it tears not on the filament path

solar bridge
#

Textured pei needs more squish

#

Have to push it into the texture

proud cliff
#

ah! right I almost destroyed my cf side playing with z tuning yesterday 😩

#

not almost, I really dent the thing badly

#

I wanted to fine tune, reset by mistake the offset on mainsail, than on the console messed up the calculation by 1 full mm too much

solar bridge
#

Opps

#

I just baby step using the zoffset box

#

And save if I want to

#

Let mainsail do the math update

proud cliff
#

maybe I'll try to add this in the inside of the panels, and see if they dampen the noise and vibrations

image.png
#

rubber tiles, 5€ each

#

If not I am sure I can use some rubber tiles in the garden... They should also be rated for some sort of heat, in the summer under the sun must be over 50c, so I think they are safe to use

proud cliff
#

Though on the cabinets: I am still not sure if my cabinet will be good enough. I designed it for the ender 5 moderate vibration and the stiff-but flexible work plate worked to absorb some printer vibrations

#

but with the Mercury One type of vibrations it's a totally different music, it doesn't seem to move that much when it's in the ground, but when on my cabinets it manages to move everything, So I've stiffened up the table plane, added a massive concrete tile, and I was thinking now to add those rubber tiles as well (under the concrete). I hope this will do

stone valve
#

@proud cliff have a look at the feet I found and posted on my log, I'm considering giving them a try

#

Might work for me as I'm not using the electronics part of M1 but need to raise it because of hydra

proud cliff
#

but I can’t 😓

stone valve
#

Bolting the table to the wall?

#

I ended up with a very stable table

#

Now the movement is from the damn enclosure

proud cliff
stone valve
proud cliff
#

and the gasket on the side will prevent/mitigate the frame vibrations

IMG_8783.jpg
proud cliff
stone valve
#

better than drywall

proud cliff
#

I wanted to go with 2 lines of gasket on each side, but let’s see

proud cliff
# stone valve better than drywall

I think the drywalls are the fist layer, the walls of these houses are multilayers, and finally the beams structure behind, I’ve managed to install sinks and wall mounted cabinets so far, but the printer will actively pull

stone valve
#

yeah you will need beams for those

proud cliff
#

it needed a cutout for the motor mount, and I countersunk the holes (so the screws could easily reach the t-nuts, since the gasket adds some bulk) but it seems to work!!

IMG_8795.jpg
#

I ended up using 4 M5x30mm. that’s the easiest fit for now. it’s really solid when shaking. I tried more holes but given that this is not a precision job, it gets longer to catch all the t-nuts

IMG_8796.jpg
proud cliff
#

to set the rubber tile on the wood panel I used silicone, and it didn’t worked very very well (I think if I pull most of the tile detaches). For the other side I tried wood glue, and it seems to give a firmer grip on the panel. On the top of the printer I’ll not take any chances that the rubber tile will detach and fell on the toolhead. So I’ll glue it, wrap on a cloth and bolt the cloth on the wood from all sides (it will also look nicer than the plain rubber) and finally bolt trough the rubber and cloth to set the horizontal top beams of the enclosure (that will press on the rubber tile)

stone valve
#

why not screws directly for the rubber?

#

nvm just finished reading

proud cliff
# stone valve why not screws directly for the rubber?

I don’t want to waste that many fasteners for the rubber, it’s really a strong material, but it get flimsy when you brake it (holes/cuts). plus, I feel if I fix the rubber that way I’ll somehow transmit more vibration to the wood panel

#

but if anything, I’m increasing the mass of the printer, and that alone will decrease the vibrations

proud cliff
#

it’s heavy! I can hardly move it around

IMG_8805.jpg
stone valve
#

good news is

#

if you cant move it, it cant move much by itself

proud cliff
#

so this was my last IS in mid march:

#

yes I did change to 1.1.5 and maybe tightened things, but I also added more stuff that could vibrate, such as the nozzle brush and the nevermore, and maybe I've squared the frame a little, but I haven't done anything specific to improve the resonance yet

#

comparing old and new Y resonance, I can see that all the old peaks are there, but they are really tuned down by the mass of the panels on the frame (must be), and the real Y resonance at 43Hz stands out now

proud cliff
#

I need to be careful to mount the back panel a bit further away: if I install it in line with the rear 2020 I’ll sacrifice some Y movement

IMG_8807.jpg
frail swallow
#

Oh, my yes. That's close.

stone valve
#

@proud cliff can you share your brush support?

#

I need another

proud cliff
stone valve
#

mine being on the bed is not helping

gleaming trout
#

It’s posted in #1007998760967737364

stone valve
#

@proud cliff works with the crazy right?

#

or too low for it?

proud cliff
stone valve
#

perfect

proud cliff
#

unless you have a volcano nozzle

#

obviously

stone valve
#

I do not

#

my limited crazy

#

speaking of rapido how's the nozzle swap? one handed?

proud cliff
proud cliff
# stone valve speaking of rapido how's the nozzle swap? one handed?

so far yes, I got one for 70€ from triangle lab… apparently the discount was because all 3 Ti screws that secured the heat block where rotten/rusted, and 2 out of 3 broke before I could swap any nozzle…. I should have opened and swap with new ones… but even if crippled, it a great hotend

#

I prefer the rapido to the crazy. the crazy is a order of magnitude more sturdy though, the rapido prints better and it’s faaast

stone valve
#

might someday switch

#

might

#

just gathering information

proud cliff
#

so satisfying when things click when you press them into their place 😆

IMG_8815.jpg
frail swallow
#

I love WAGO nut holders

stone valve
proud cliff
#

chips?

stone valve
#

wago connectors

proud cliff
#

I feel the resonance analysis can be more useful. I mean, thinking about it, it should be possible to trace the aetiology of a specific odd peak to wiring/nuts/loose frame, right? given that the frame is kind-of the same for all our printers, the resonance of similar size object should have the same frequency

stone valve
#

there is a macro script or something to make the printer vibrate with a certain frequency

frail swallow
proud cliff
frail swallow
#

Too many syllables. I get confused.

frail swallow
proud cliff
#

true :), for the stock bed it would be nice to know.

proud cliff
solar bridge
#

that filament path really bothers me

proud cliff
solar bridge
#

its been temp for to long lol

#

at least run a reverse bowden tube

#

and stop the filament from just getting slapped around

proud cliff
#

but I’m building a tradrack, so hopefully in a week or so I’ll have that in top of the printer, serving one or more rolls

stone valve
#

@proud cliff 3ID tube

proud cliff
stone valve
#

yep

proud cliff
#

and how do you fix it to the extruder?

stone valve
#

got some for the rack

#

still 4 OD

solar bridge
#

3x4mm tubing is pretty standard for reverse bowden

stone valve
#

I was running 2x4 but filament got stuck a lot 500+500 tubes

#

I'm running 2x4 inside the enclosure 3x4 out

#

I find it easier to load into the sherpa with 2ID

proud cliff
#

right, I used some capricorn tube, it’s 1.9 or 2 I think… that’s why it was working so poorly

stone valve
#

capricorn slides quite nicely though I had issues with the transparent one

#

need a quick favour can you measure the top front extrusion?

proud cliff
#

so I’ll get some 3mm id ptfe 😓… reverse bowden and also for the 5 spools (I think I’ll ever use 2 maybe 3… )

stone valve
#

got 5m

proud cliff
#

so I can’t even start counting the meters needed

proud cliff
stone valve
#

sec its ali

proud cliff
#

so another month of waiting 😂

stone valve
#

took less than 2 weeks to arrive

proud cliff
#

yes, but DK is the last butt hole of eu when shipping from china

solar bridge
#

capricorn is tighter than normal 2x4, to tight for reverse bowden

stone valve
stone valve
proud cliff
#

instead of regular ptfe

#

I have a very bad flow (max 18mm3/s) maybe it’s that 🫤

stone valve
#

@proud cliff can you measure extrusion?

solar bridge
#

I use capricorn on the tool head

#

but 3x4 from the tool head to the spool

proud cliff
solar bridge
#

I just set it higher than my hotend can flow for stupid speed benchies

proud cliff
#

so it’s not that my issue.. are you using a cht nozzle?

solar bridge
#

cause flow would limit speed

stone valve
#

I'm loving transparent one, not as good but I like to see the filament

solar bridge
#

normal quality speed profile has a proper value

stone valve
proud cliff
proud cliff
stone valve
#

ah that test

proud cliff
solar bridge
#

I use orca slicer to test flow now

proud cliff
#

I understand the choice of installing the motor further back, this rear belt/motor tower is a very busy place for making a nice clean enclosure 🫤

#

but I am not doing that

#

elaborating an action plan

#
  1. install a panel in the back from bottom to top extruder, the rubber tile will be set in a way to absorb the vibration from the motor towers.
#
  1. install the wire guide that was on the central 400mm 2020 on the panel (I will remove a/b cable and install the new canbus cable I got)
#
  1. find out how to cutout a panel that sets around the a/b motors and yet bolt on the side panel (this top part might not have enough room for rubber insulation all over the place)
#
  1. move a skr mini right behind the a/b motors, in an alcove that will create by the awkward shape of this rear tophat. connect it via the canbus that’s already passing by (the skr mini will serve the a/b motors as well as 2 motors, 2 endstops and 1 servo for the tradrack
proud cliff
#

of course instead of focusing and finish I slice benchies: testing turtle speed profile I get this

image.png
#

this is already twice as fast that I've ever printed a benchy, and I doubt it would just do it if I send this, but I wonder if I could do it faster, this is already 40k accel and 600 speed

#

and my max 19mm3 flow will make a mess when it's mostly needed a 30mm3 flow

proud cliff
#

wow, it feels a bit excessive for a nozzle and a gear...

image.png
#

at the same price I got a full hotend and a clone cht… let’s see

image0.jpg
#

I have found a eva 2.4 mount for the cloned bambu hotend, and will compare it to the rapido and mosquito… I have to stop to zip tight my hotend wires 😂, it starts to be environment unfriendly

stone valve
#

Recycle the nylon and print new zip ties?

stone valve
proud cliff
stone valve
#

From some videos it does give a nice boost

#

NF crazy starting to feel slow now

frail swallow
#

21.37 euro for a BMG gear? Yikes.

stone valve
#

That was the cost for the whole Sherpa mini gear set

#

Extruder gears, the big one, shafts and bearings

proud cliff
stone valve
#

@proud cliff trianglelab also has IIRC

frail swallow
#

What about buying a BMG clone and using the parts from it?

proud cliff
frail swallow
proud cliff
frail swallow
#

I still use a BMG, lol. No idea. 🙂

proud cliff
#

So enclosed half of the back. it doesn’t feel a particularly precise work, it’s actually not precise at all, bur I don’t have any serious tool, so we’ll see if I do more damage than good

IMG_8865.jpg
#

I made layers of packing foam and covered in the interior with some insulation plastic sheet. it’s easy to cut with a knife, but it’s otherwise hard to break.. (I found this in the discount cuts pieces in the diy shop, don’t know the name)

IMG_8864.jpg
#

the top part is unfinished, for now I just cutout something around the motors

IMG_8863.jpg
proud cliff
#

the plan is to add some thicker spacer below the motors and on top. this will create a space for a mini electric bay just behind the motors, where I’ll install one if the skr mini e3. moving it out from the electronic bay. this board will primarily drive the a/b motors. I am also looking into move in the “top board” some endstop and fans. but in this board I need at least 2 endstops and 2 motors for the mmc unit that I’m building a side

proud cliff
#

a little bit more details of this wip unrolling abomination. luckily my life doesn’t depend on woodworking 😅

IMG_8869.jpg
#

now the side panels are more stiff also on the top part, where no aluminium extrusion is present

#

a close up on the rear part, this thing really attracts dust, maybe the black, maybe the material… anyway I’m planning the back “cabinets” so hopefully I’ll be able to be more precise here

IMG_8868.jpg
#

it also needs to be accessible if I need to rewire things, so I think there will be hinges and a locking mechanism involved. I think for simplicity all the back panel would slide up and down, so I could also reach motors/towers/belt if anything needs intervention

frail swallow
proud cliff
#

also planning a door. I have a 5mm plexyglass sheet, which I was planning to cut to size and add magnets all around, so a detachable magnetic door. the reason for this is that I don’t have space in the cabinets for a door that slide opens to the outside, I can detach it and set it aside (maybe add some features that I can attach the door on the side if the printer, if it remains smooth, no roll holders or similar)

#

my initial plan was a foldable magnetic door, that looked like a stained glass artwork, where the frame would feature the zeroG logo in various sizes, and it could be folded in a zeroG logo itself (brilliant idea while walking with the dogs around). I then realised I don’t have the slightest idea how to do it nor the technical skills 😂

proud cliff
#

on a technical note, I have to redo the back panel step: with the sides only I was able to achieve a good z-tilt (meaning at every cycle the adjustment was working progressively), after the back panel i can’t get a better range than .16mm. I tried spinning the printer around as it usually I can find an orientation where the floor gets me a more favourable tilt

#

the hypotheses are that either the back panel stiffen the frame, but it also slightly unsquared it, the other is that it’s just what happens when you stiffen an underlying unsquared frame

#

also, it’s possible that my floor is actually terrible, and the weaker frame was able to adjust more than now. So first thing I’ll try other floors, I have a concrete tile that might be a good test, so before tearing down things I make sure the fix requires intervention on the printer

proud cliff
#

the tilt issue was the pei sheet was slightly on a build-plate-centering screw… it’s not the first time that happens 🤦‍♂️

frail swallow
proud cliff
#

found a bunch of industrial looking locking hinges, they are from the shipping box of a sequencing machine I’ve bought years ago for the lab… 😜

IMG_8884.jpg
stone valve
proud cliff
#

and my rapido is complete again, new heatsink arrived, installed the 3 screws (carefully!) and after everything was bolted in it gained a 0.5 mm3 in flow (asa). So the slight bend was actually detrimental, curious to see when the bambu clone arrives how it compares

#

I’ve also found a 70w heating cartridge so I can try again the crazy

proud cliff
#

3 meters of canbus cable, and 8€ worth of packaging (the zip tights must be very expensive here in denmark)

IMG_8885.jpg
#

2x2xawg22

image0.jpg
#

I am going to have the wiring for the backpack first, this requires crimping few connectors and measure to length backpack to canbus board on the toolhead and another one from the backpack to the terminal block in the electronic bay. So I can install the skr mini and replace the current can wiring in one go, and have the printer operational if needed

#

once the can network works with the new setup I can remove one skr mini in the the bay and reassign the drivers in the config

#

plan to move in the backpack, the y endstop, the chamber thermistor, the nevermore fan, use the hotend terminals to switch on/off 2 circular led hotspots

#

and of course the a and b motors, leaving only the 5v led and the canbus cables going passing in the back of the printer from the electric bay

proud cliff
#

getting some help on assembling stuff

IMG_8901.jpg
frail swallow
#

Cuuuute

stone valve
#

that's awesome man

#

my helper loses interest quickly

#

and not with the printer, next thing I need to print is a wall-e

proud cliff
#

he started playing with the m5x10, for which I don’t have spare, so I wised up and put back everything for later

frail swallow
#

Wonder how much it would be to overnight 150 screws across the Atlantic...

proud cliff
frail swallow
#

Even snail mail is super expensive

stone valve
#

don't forget customs

proud cliff
frail swallow
#

There are no good gifs for this, sadly.

frail swallow
stone valve
#

but he likes it 😄

gentle garnet
stone valve
#

@gentle garnet Genius kit

gentle garnet
#

Ah.. why cheap out?? The legend kit is the price of a modest 3D printer and is the only kit I’d buy 🤣

stone valve
#

may upgrade in a few years

gentle garnet
#

Wait, you don't live off of loans and credit like everyone else? 😆

stone valve
gentle garnet
#

LOL this definition definitely makes me a financially irresponsible person

stone valve
#

hahaha

proud cliff
#

maybe 100$ short of it

proud cliff
#

I’ve somehow cut the top panel in a way that I can attempt the sealing of the gaps, and it press a little the rubber. the mmu (blue:green thing) will be installed around where is places now, I think. now I have a rough idea of how to cut the back panel lid

IMG_8914.jpg
proud cliff
#

I am not sure if I should bolt it down, or instead I should have a removable clamping mechanism, so I could work better on some parts for maintenance (eg rails or smilar

frail swallow
proud cliff
#

I finally gave in and ordered the expensive gear from bondtech 😓. I needed one 4mm ball, so I had to order a 1.5€ bearing -to be dismantled- and the cart was so empty to justify the checkout…. Damn you consumerism!

#

I’ll print the sherpa with the RIDGA mod, and see the difference. It should remove print artefacts due to uneven extrusion -due to the grab screw pushing the gear slightly off-center-

#

I also bought some b-stock asa (13€ 1Kg), let’s see what color arrives this time

stone valve
#

At least it's cheap

frail swallow
proud cliff
#

I might have over posted this, but it’s amazing

#

it always gets me the excuse to buy some stuff from them

#

no issues so far (ok maybe the end of the spool of the gray look like white instead of silvery of the beginning… but I printed super hot, maybe it was that)

proud cliff
#

My cad skills proved again to be the worst 😅, meshed together various pieces for the din clips into this. The noctua is there because I can’t find screws to fit a sunon 4020, but maybe the noctua will be good enough for this. The 4 corners will screw in the mount in the backpack lid

IMG_8951.jpg
#

and the 2 heat insert in the front are for the mcp2551 CAN transceiver

frail swallow
#

looks cool

proud cliff
#

few layers before the top there was some under extrusion. it’s nit the first time it happens. It could be the filament getting stuck or some slicer issues… I don’t care for this print

stone valve
#

that reminds me that I also need a place to put the can transceiver

proud cliff
#

but hopefully I’ll find out in the future

proud cliff
frail swallow
stone valve
frail swallow
stone valve
#

yes

proud cliff
#

just because, instead of doing anything useful and procrastinate instead, started a 24 min benchy

IMG_8962.jpg
#

the skirt took 10 sec, it was quite impressive

#

the brim… whatever it’s called

#

noise level in the other rooms is good, I hope when fully enclosed to keep it even lower

#

it’s going to be more 30 min benchy

image0.jpg
#

but still, my preparation routine takes forever

#

nope, got off the bed during the roof bridging

#

not bad quality overall. would like to know what are those artefacts… at least I have a general idea now

IMG_8967.jpg
gentle garnet
#

Curios to see your results after you replace the hotend with X1C clone. How soon will you get that?

frail swallow
#

Looks good for a 30min benchy

proud cliff
#

I am really looking forward to finish/decide the next few steps. I need to figure out the toolhead wire and ptfe tube paths. It involves making a couple of holes, so I am procrastinating until I can’t avoid doing it

#

the ptfe tube is the easiest, it probably coming straight fro. the top, so a hole in the top lid to mount a collet, maybe just a pass through (so I don’t risk the tube to drop on the build plate while printing)

stone valve
#

@proud cliff check how I did mine, can provide the parts

#

it's just a 2 piece print that screws together from both sides and the bowden attaches like in the sherpa without collet

proud cliff
stone valve
proud cliff
#

so you have 2 separate pieces of tube or is one tube that pass through?

proud cliff
stone valve
#

2 pieces

#

the "screw" has a wall to ensure that

#

you will need to be able to drill a hole wider than 10mm

proud cliff
#

I have mixed feelings about the sherpa ptfe slot, it fails over time, mine is a bit loose right now

proud cliff
#

and “gently” scrape everything in the middle

stone valve
proud cliff
stone valve
#

these that I printed it's PETG , pretty tight

#

let me get to the computer and I'll adjust it for 13mm

proud cliff
#

Just went to the vet, routine checked on my oldest cat (take some blood samples for controlling how she’s handling the chemo). Apparently not all the cat react like mine, I have a “difficult cat” apparently says the doctor (she’ve bitten me by mistake, she was aiming at the nurse 😂)

stone valve
proud cliff
stone valve
proud cliff
#

wow!! thanks!!!

#

I’m also making a grommet for the canbus cable, it’s probably easier than I thought the decision where to make the holes (removing the impractical places the choice was obvious.

#

I have tpu, but I never used it 😅, I am not sure if an asa grommet would be as good

frail swallow
#

TPU is fun when it works

stone valve
#

@proud cliff did not forget you but didn't make the time yet to adjust

proud cliff
stone valve
#

I lost mine even before having kids

proud cliff
stone valve
#

they can't make you lose if if you already lost it

proud cliff
#

I am also dealing with running a scad file to make a grommet for the canbus wire, my idea is to have a screw in nut that will fixthe cable in place. I think asa will be fine

#

ah, right, the mystery box from 3do was another kg of red asa

IMG_8970.jpg
frail swallow
#

Better to have a spare spool of what you already have than run out

proud cliff
#

yet another new sherpa mini. But this one is featured rich: RIDGA bondtech gear, a ptfe collet and the a filament sensor (it just need a endstop switch on the 2 holes and an m3 pressing it on the lever)

IMG_9004.jpg
#

I don’t know how to remove the test ptfe tube from the collet now 😅

proud cliff
#

and also this tiny little 5 lanes filament switch is finished (mechanically)

IMG_9005.jpg
#

I could make a funny spinning logo to make use of the protruding shaft of the ender 5 stock Y motor 😂

stone valve
proud cliff
# stone valve do it

or a knob… I am not sure for what use, maybe if I want to manually drive the selector 😅

gentle garnet
#

Can't unsee!!

image.png
frail swallow
#

Is there a trick to printing cable chain ends? I have terrible luck with it.

gentle garnet
#

I had good results printing a whole drag chain with Nylon. Turned out much better than the one I printed with ABS

proud cliff
# gentle garnet Can't unsee!!

oh right! I forgot about it. I have to find the right size that match the underlying heat insert, I had the 3 screws one, like for hydra, so I printed this one with 2 holes, but they are spaced ~2mm more than necessary

#

maybe they specify the exact model in the bom 😅… but how’s reading documentation anymore

proud cliff
#

actually even less than 2mm

IMG_9011.jpg
#

I thought those things were standard in few sizes, but apparently there are subtle differences… Actually, I think this what’s happened: the bom chain is 10x10, I have the chain leftover for hydra that it’s 10x11. I suspect the stl I printed was just increase the size of the object from 10 to 11, with a result that the holes don’t align with the standard 10x10

proud cliff
#

as I realised I am not planning to split the bowden tube from the rack to the hotend

stone valve
#

oh that one is nice

proud cliff
#

the original mod also have a version with the sherpa-like hexagonal inlet

proud cliff
#

the usual sloth pace progress on this enclosure. But I decided on the ptfe inlet position and made the holes. I wasn’t sure if I wanted a 20mm hole on the top, so I just made a 20 mm counterbore-like thing to allow the wobbly coupler mod to spin and move around but only a 4mm hole fully passing through the panel

IMG_9019.jpg
#

and installed the top bowden mod with a 10mm coupler

IMG_9020.jpg
#

a ring with heat insert on the other side to secure the thing

IMG_9021.jpg
proud cliff
#

failed attempt at installing the skr in the back of the printer… I spent 1 hours to carefully cut and make holes to a piece of plexiglass, thinking I had a wooden bezel to screw into behind the soft plastic panel, but no, I don’t have any bazel... I felt harder when pressing.. that was my judgment call to go ahead with the cuts 😅. this because I have to rush things and work only in the nights on this… during the day I make plans without the printer on hands and I imagine things

#

So I wanted to attach the board on the enclosure body, so when I open the backpack lid all the wires and electronics would stay there, but it seems it will cause a firmer installation on the lid, so when I open it all the electronics moves out 🤔

#

but at least, the filament path seems to work

IMG_9029.jpg
#

maybe I can try harder to install the electronics in the non-moving parts, it’s just more manageable with wires not moving all the time

plain schooner
proud cliff
proud cliff
#

I’m about to connect an end-stop to io29 and use it as filament sensor… hopefully it would work (can’t find any docs and I’m lazy to look the schematics)

image0.jpg
proud cliff
#

nope

#

but I suspect they labeled the pins upside down... I guess it didn't matter for the x/z endstops, but for this yes

#

crimping a jst connector so I can comfortably test which has 5v.

frail swallow
#

you don't want 5V for the endstop

#

IO and GND pins only. 5V = smoke

#

The "5V = smoke" lesson was nearly "5V = fire" but I cut the power in time...

proud cliff
#

the thr36 is not turning on with 5v shorted

#

tested and I was actually shorting 5v… I did this before with the thr, that’s why I was quite sloppy on it. I know the the doesn’t turn on when shorting pins (I haven’t tested all the pins… so don’t blame me if your blows up)

#

so the labels in the schematics are actually inverted… I know the squared pins might have been telling, but I don’t know this things… now at least it is not smoking and it’s on with the pin connected… bolting all in again and actually see if the makeshift filament runout works

solar bridge
#

Thr36 schematic or the filament sensor

proud cliff
#

thr36 pins pdf is wrong, the schematics is correct. at least for the MT-DET (j13) header

solar bridge
#

Ohh their image is flipped

#

I see now

#

I would go by the image

proud cliff
#

that’s probably why I couldn’t make io21 to work on the z probe header

#

good thing this board is full of protections and endstop pins 😂

#

everything on and connected

IMG_9042.jpg IMG_9041.jpg
solar bridge
#

I added a new klicky fan duct option which should support uhf with unklicky

#

If that's something you wanted to try

proud cliff
solar bridge
#

I somehow lost my uhf parts of I would have tested it by now lol

proud cliff
#

it seems something reasonably doable, I should be able to re-use the klicky mount with unklicky, practically, it only differs in the longer probe offset

proud cliff
#

first I have to finish this thing, I'll make a comparison vs cht nozzle next week -hopefully- so I can test volcano next

solar bridge
#

I ordered my second rapido with it

proud cliff
solar bridge
#

No

#

Waiting to get one though

#

Want to see if it's better or not

proud cliff
#

runout sensor works

image0.jpg
#

But I can’t load the filament properly anymore 😂, I think I need to push the ptfe tube more, it’s 3mm Ø internally, maybe it’s too big

#

tbh the v1 rapido is pretty good already. I had few issues but it never had downtimes (even if not fully functional it always managed to print fairly good)

proud cliff
#

nope, new extruder is stuck, I suspect I bonked when retracting fast the hot filament (eager to test the sensor)… I haven’t time now, but I need to disassemble the thing 😫…

stone valve
#

really considering one

#

the crazy is hitting the limit pretty fast

proud cliff
frail swallow
proud cliff
# frail swallow W00t!

yeah! it’s not the most user friendly setup, you have to adjust the screw so it clicks just when the filament leaves the gears (all works depending on the spring of the thumb screw)

proud cliff
solar bridge
#

Is hard to compare directly with klicky at least since it takes time to swap and adjust z again

#

But I don't think it's any worse?

proud cliff
#

@solar bridge I was picturing how an awd setup would be implemented, the front towers would have an additional idler, leaving the filament path hopefully unchanged, and the motors would be mounted upside down, on a corner mount just on top the hydra leadscrew (it works with the stock front bar) if only I wasn’t a complete mess with cad…

#

I don’t know why nobody tried it already 😅, I think that would step up the performance at a near -k3 level

solar bridge
#

No, k3 is a whole other level

#

Not core xy

#

All the rails

proud cliff
proud cliff
# solar bridge Not core xy

yeah, the kinematic is pretty simple, each rail 1 motor, I guess the simplest the better works for everything

#

k3 at x/y and hydra for z 😛…

solar bridge
#

K3 has triple z with 9mm belts

#

I need to get back to building mine

proud cliff
#

there was some junk filament leftover stuck in the sherpa mini, I tried to pull it out with some pliers… but than my better judgment stepped in, took the smaller Allen key I had and poke it down where it belongs, melted where it should be

#

apologies for the baby monitor in the background 😅

#

after that the sherpa is back, testing the filament runout it’s pretty reliable

proud cliff
#

planning for when-hopefully-if I'll receive the bambu clone hotend, I need to try and print this

image.png
#

not the most polished and slick mount as I was used with the ones from turtle... I also have terrible luck with removing support

noble yacht
proud cliff
#

this is really weird in the context of a flying gantry, in our setup it would be easier since they are fix on the top extrusions

image.png
stone valve
#

looks heavy

kind blaze
#

@proud cliff What colors and brand are these? Perfect color combo

proud cliff
kind blaze
#

dark blue and gray at the very beginning

proud cliff
#

ahh same, asa 3do 🙂

solar bridge
#

Makita blue, right?

proud cliff
#

I think fabreeko has 3do stuff as well

proud cliff
#

first time I see a cf other than black! https://www.fabreeko.com/products/3do-asa-cf-0-8kg-gray-limited-run-carbon-fiber

Fabreeko
3DO ASA CF 1 KG Gray limited run - Carbon Fiber Gray

What is it3DO ASA is a UV-resistant and weatherproof copolymer designed for industrial uses.It has a high level of process dependability and is well suited for mechanically stressed components. It's an electrically insulating substance.The layer adhesion, thermal stability, flow characteristics, and warping tendencie

proud cliff
proud cliff
#

They also have it in the eu shop… damn you gas and electricity bills, we got 6k $ of bills for kids/house/insurance in July 😩… well, hopefully they still have it next month

#

3do also got fancy colors with fiber glass, magenta and green ratrig… 🤤

proud cliff
#

I can’t avoid some downtime today, I can’t finish it in a reasonable time snd it’s 3 in the morning, so… new canbus cable connected to the toolhead; rear cable guide secured sturdily with the enclosure

#

next is remove the old canbus cable from the electronic bay, and connect the new one. test if everything works as before

#

than, install the skr mini in the backpack (the plexiglass already have mounting holes for the mcu printed parts (skr mini+mcp2551+cooling fan), flash it with can bus communication, move the ab motors, y switch, nevermore fans, chamber thermistor there, and test

#

cleanup the wires, remove old skr mini from the bay, rearrange electronics to have more room in there

frail swallow
#

That cable looks nice

proud cliff
proud cliff
#

And thanks to @stone valve, I used the 0.5mm ferrules, and it worked this time (after pushing a bit and trimming). I had to use a bit of fantasy in the color choice, hopefully I’ll be careful in connecting the wires properly later on

IMG_9057.jpg
stone valve
#

worst I did on mine was using red/black for AC

#

black is usually Line blue Neutral

#

here black is Neutral red Line

#

aka very swapped

#

(good thing AC has no polarity)

#

but then a wise man said "your build your rules, just remember them"

proud cliff
stone valve
#

true my plan is to set it very carefully close it and hopefully maintenance will be low like replacing a component where I don't need to think much either

#

just take this out, put same thing in

proud cliff
#

I seriously doubted I could pull it off (I’ve spent 1h trying to screw back a wire that got loose from a din terminal) but I made it! so nothing exciting happened, the printer is still in downtime -because I haven’t thought of making a proper wire duct in the back panel, so I had to remove the a/b steppers wires as well otherwise the canbus cable wouldn’t fit-

IMG_9067.jpg
#

I’m half thinking the purple cable could pass trough something loosely fixed on the top panel (like a soft lace or something). it doesn’t drop loose, but I’d like it more vertical 🤔

#

here is how it moves (also note the dingling hole mount)

frail swallow
#

What if you made a larger version of your PTFE coupler that also passes the wiring through?

#

Might be more work than it's worth, though

proud cliff
stone valve
#

I would make it enter back center at an angle

#

pretty much how mine is

#

I'll get a photo

proud cliff
stone valve
#

why not like this?

rn_image_picker_lib_temp_1edfae73-5a91-4b7b-b4cb-72f427bc2520.jpg
proud cliff
stone valve
#

you can make it enter with angle from the center

#

night not work very well when the toolhead is at the back

proud cliff
#

ok, I’m hitting an issue with my old skr mini e3 v3. the one that lost the microusb. My plan was to use it in canbus mode via PB8/PB9 pins, as all the other skr minis (v3, v2, v1.2) I have/had in this canbus network, but it doesn’t came up. I have a fever today (also the little one… it very nice to have kids, 😒) but I think I wouldn’t mess up a make config… the board flashes but just doesn’t list

#

summoning @gentle garnet , maybe he knows how to debug if the canbus pins I configured are somehow faulty or the fact the the usb port was damaged influenced also those pins. I used this board in uart mode for months without issues

gentle garnet
#

Hey there
First, can you share a screenshot of the menuconfig items used when building the firmware?

proud cliff
#

I tried also 500000

#

and even usb to canbus (go figure, the other v3 I have is set usb to can bridge…)

#

I mean I have a working setup now, but I really wanted to reuse this board. I like the big heatsink of this version 😅

gentle garnet
#

How did you wire the CAN transceiver's RX and TX pins?

proud cliff
gentle garnet
#

Legit for both. Bus measures 60 ohm?

proud cliff
#

I swapped the board around keeping the tranceiver where they are, and I made the dupont terminals in a way that I can’t make mistakes… well it’s harder to make mistakes… the board kept not working

proud cliff
gentle garnet
#

Cool. How did you confirm that the board actually flashed the firmware binary?

proud cliff
#

so, let’s say I flash canboot, communication in uart mode, and than go ahead to flash klipper to use cabus… would canboot allows me to debug what happens?

proud cliff
gentle garnet
#

Just to confirm - you placed the klipper.bin on the microsd card, named it firmware.bin, booted the board and after checking the microsd card you see a firmware.cur file. Correct?

proud cliff
gentle garnet
#

And you're 100% certain the binary was the one you created after make clean && make ?

proud cliff
#

also I have the 24v and the 5v circuits separated, so I can shut down all the mcu leaving the linux host alive… I tried to reboot the network few times with the klipper deamon off, and I can only see the 3 mcu I had, I keep missing the new one

proud cliff
gentle garnet
#

Would be a shame to proceed to next steps without being certain on something rudimentary I guess 🙂

#

Can you post the content of your /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0 ?

gentle garnet
proud cliff
# 
cat /etc/network/interfaces.d/can0 

allow-hotplug can0
iface can0 can static
    bitrate 1000000
    up ifconfig $IFACE txqueuelen 1024```
proud cliff
gentle garnet
#

Looks good. Which command you run for CAN bus query?

proud cliff
#

I removed the out folder and trying again

# 

$ ~/klippy-env/bin/python ~/klipper/scripts/canbus_query.py can0```
gentle garnet
#

Your "Main" mainboard connected to your SBC is running CAN bridge mode, correct?

proud cliff
#

I did make clean just to be sure

proud cliff
#

they all use the same setup

#

same transceiver (well one had a 120ohm shorting l/h)

#

the one in the usb can bridge

gentle garnet
#

They don't have to - only one board should run CAN bridge, the rest of the devices should be "CAN bus on xx/xx" as you've configured here

gentle garnet
proud cliff
#

confirm the bin was the corre one.. nothing happens

proud cliff
#

and the new v3 is set as normal can communication

#

I meant hardware setup

gentle garnet
#

Ok. How easy would it be to isolate the main mainboard and this one? Also, can you find a 120ohm line termination resistor for this transceiver?

proud cliff
#

same wiring schema, same ttainsceiver

gentle garnet
proud cliff
#

the 120ohm is harder

#

I need to solder it in the pcb 😓

gentle garnet
#

I see. Well.. It may work without one, but not necessarily and may not be reliable

#

I'm only attempting to see if this board comes up on the query without the rest of the bus, so not anything permanent

proud cliff
#

It only finds the first board

#

going back to the fondamentals

#

I made the fat32 partition with linux… I mean, how sure are we the the .cur file means the flash happened correctly?

gentle garnet
#

well, we assume 🙂
That's the piece of code in the bootloader of the mainboard in charge of flashing and renaming the file once it's done

gentle garnet
#

Any ST-Link programmer? You can install CanBoot bootloader on the device, but not without DFU over USB (which obviously you can't) or ST-Link using SWDIO.

proud cliff
gentle garnet
#

...old board?

proud cliff
#

the “old” board is now installed in the backpack, and I can see it when connected

gentle garnet
#

OK... with the amount of boards you use even I'm getting confused 😁

proud cliff
#

so this are the 2 skr mini v3 i. the bay

IMG_9080.jpg
#

and this one is in the backpack

IMG_9081.jpg
#

when everything works I’ll remove the additional one in the el bay

gentle garnet
#

May I see a closeup of this PCB?

image.png
proud cliff
#

tried a different sd, same stuff

proud cliff
#

hmm not the best pic 😅

gleaming trout
gleaming trout
proud cliff
gentle garnet
#

Ah, not with the better photo 🙂

proud cliff
proud cliff
#

but also I don’t have cable guide, I am thinking to print some

gleaming trout
proud cliff
gentle garnet
#

Now, it's a bit confusing for me to understand which board is what, from the 2 photos you sent.

proud cliff
#

I haven’t sent you close up of that one

#

let’s try

gentle garnet
#

What do I look at here?

image.png
proud cliff
#

this is the board not working

proud cliff
# gentle garnet What do I look at here?

it the canbus cable, it has a metal sleeve and some plasic/cotton fabric… it’s really messy in there. I covered with a loose heat shrink (the blue thing)… once everything is sorted I’ll cut the excess of things and heatup the shrink

#

and this is the corresponding transceiver for the not working board

image0.jpg
#

but the transceivers are confirmed to be all working

gentle garnet
#

It's quite a challenge to follow your wiring, but it appears to be correct. I can only suggest isolating two boards, and continue from there. From software/firmware aspect your setup appears to be correct as well

proud cliff
#

ok, I see… I should take it out, flash it in uart

#

and see if the pins do something if I configure them

gentle garnet
#

With an oscilloscope..

proud cliff
#

😂

#

worse case scenario I’ll use this board in uart mode for another build.. let’s say a v0 😝

gentle garnet
#

Don't worry. Any I2C device? temperature probe, etc? Those pins have various configurable alternate functions

#

Should work as a digital output too, if you want to test it this way

#

as an [output_pin]

proud cliff
#

but now I have to go… I feel like when I had corona, or it’s just manflu

#

that tomorrow morning my 18month kid with fever will be hell of a lot more active than me with fever

gentle garnet
#

be well you all! It's past bedtime for me as well

proud cliff
#

but it doesn’t look I’ll fix the can issue, I might diagnose an issue, for curiosity

#

I don’t have the capacity/equipment for fix anything…

#

no actually I wanted to solder the usb , I bought a bag of those.. I completely forgot about it

#

it might not do anything, but who knows

gentle garnet
#

It's not lost as you can still use it in another way. Soldering the microusb without proper tools can be risky, and it also depends on the condition of the traces and the pads. I wouldn't do it.

proud cliff
#

now they are bad

#

but it worked in uart mode after that

solar bridge
#

It's not even seated fully... and those poor wires being pulled so tight

proud cliff
proud cliff
proud cliff
#

nasty thermo paste every

#

where

frail swallow
#

It tiny!

noble yacht
#

Seeing hotends on the websites then getting it in person at first blew my mind. They look bigger and then you get this tiny thing.

#

Only heard good thing about those hotends, I just wish the heat sink was symmetrical

stone valve
#

I like to swap nozzles so there's that

frail swallow
stone valve
#

not doable

noble yacht
#

On the clone you can

stone valve
#

ohhh

solar bridge
#

Bambu just tells you to swap the hotend

#

2 connectors and 2 screws

#

Takes a minute or two

frail swallow
noble yacht
#

The fact that the whole hotend is cheaper than a revo nozzle doesn’t make it that bad

frail swallow
#

LOL

stone valve
#

how much btw?

frail swallow
#

I'm thinking of that $999 hotend now

stone valve
#

slice is insanely expensive, nf crazy cost me like 45 ssme performance

solar bridge
#

The metal assembly is $15

#

Complete hotend with fan is like $35?

stone valve
#

so 20 for the fan?

#

or am I misunderstanding

frail swallow
#

Probably with heater, thermistor, etc.

noble yacht
#

0.4mm assembly is cheaper too, it’s AUD$15

stone valve
#

how much flow does it handle?

noble yacht
#

$20 for fan thermistor and heater

#

About 20mm/3

stone valve
#

heh

#

the more I compare the more I want a rapido

proud cliff
#

I still need to print the eva 2.4 mount

stone valve
#

rapido should handle more flow

proud cliff
#

wich sucks, it will need support

proud cliff
solar bridge
#

Most people do not exceed 20 for flow

#

They just want more

#

Then never use it

proud cliff
#

i get 20 with the rapido, stock

stone valve
#

just 20?

#

feels low for the advertised values

proud cliff
#

this is no a 0.4 nozzle spare, included in the bundle

image0.jpg
#

I installed the 0.6

#

I don’t need more flow than 20, but it would be nice being able to go higher if needed

#

I don’t think this will replace the rapido, but I like to have spares

#

and maybe will use in future projects

proud cliff
#

I installe fusion 360, just because I am home sick and bored, just copied the stepper moror mount and brought forward. The motor pulley is already perfectly aligned with the front idler

image.png
#

auch! I'm looking at the stacks of the motor tower itself... I need to remove that

#

but from another angle they look aligned

#

ok, from this angle

image.png
#

I need to remove all the uneeccessary stacks from the mount, leaving only the pulley and a single flange stack

#

and make some mounting thing on the extrusion

frail swallow
#

Are you considering putting a stepper where the tensioner goes?

proud cliff
frail swallow
proud cliff
#

and slim down the rear stepper tower to don't interfere wit hthe tensioner

frail swallow
#

AWD CoreXY?

proud cliff
#

it only need a pulley and a flange stack

proud cliff
#

I haven't considered which side of the belt the pulley is going to bite like this 🤦‍♂️

frail swallow
#

Ah, I think I can see where it might be trouble. Hmm.

#

What if the motor is the tensioner?

#

Dang, I need Fusion open

proud cliff
#

it's the wrong side of the belt.. so it need an additional loop of flanges

proud cliff
proud cliff
# frail swallow AWD CoreXY?

I think that's not proposterous, vz are doing this, k3 uses 4 motors (different kinematics), but basically it just gives more control other than more speed, potentially, This means less ringing at the same speed as well (provide one fixes al lthe extra vibrations)

frail swallow
frail swallow
proud cliff
#

the belt path should do something like this

image.png
solar bridge
#

You will lose a fair bit of travel

proud cliff
frail swallow
proud cliff
solar bridge
#

Motors outside the frame

frail swallow
#

The motor should be outside the frame, like the steppers on the back

solar bridge
#

Like they are in the back

frail swallow
#

jinx?