EVA 3 Mercury Mod

[still bluff]

What I am trying to convey is that the one I just linked might be a variant that does not use a HSI.

On the site, there are ducts that do and do not use HSI for Beacon.

I have no idea, just taking an educated guess 😉

[dusky depot]

whats hsi ?

[still bluff]

Heat set insert

[dusky depot]

oh thx

[velvet wing]

were you able to get it working?

[dusky depot]

yeah

trying to find the offsets now and z tilt positions for the 375

cant find the probe offset on y axis.. i believe the x axis is 0 ?

what offset did you put to make that beacon probe fit the mesh ?

[velvet wing]

x is 0. For Y axis, 40.15

the docs haven't been updated to reflect the Y axis position for Beacon Rev H. It's 6.15mm more than the original, for the record.

[still bluff]

@velvet wing should this STL be added to the repo for Beacon Rev H or will your current STLs work? #1041406799342997544 message

[velvet wing]

It's been tested and needs to be added. @cursive obsidian was modding up the others, but I think he's busy. I'll get a Kraken STL out and get them both uploaded.

ummm...looks like I've got versions of both already.

[velvet wing]

Done.

[dusky depot]

is this good ?

also thanks to the guy that sent me the link for the files

[velvet wing]

looks good

[dusky depot]

the beacon attachment for the probe was wrong. i couldnt find the right duct

until you guys helped me so i really appreciate it

[velvet wing]

you might do a print and see if the beacon properly compensates for those bumps or if they're an artifact. some build plates have magnetic anomolies from how they're formed.

(i.e., the beacon sees rolling bumps that are not there)

[dusky depot]

everything workd but i have now a 377 x 359 bed.. as the beacon hits the cable chain for the z axis otherwise

[still bluff]

Look into ways of making it stiff.

[dusky depot]

i dont understand ?

anywhow im very happy so far, never seen a first layer that good on my printer since the day i have it

i have to say i went from bl touch to beacon tho ahhahhah

[still bluff]

You're not using an umbilical?

[dusky depot]

no

im using normal wires

with jst connectors

[still bluff]

So a horizontal set of wires?

[velvet wing]

@dusky depot an umbilical is where the wires go to the toolhead in a free-hanging bundle. The other option is cable chain, but it doesn't sound like you have that.

Below is an example umbilical.

[dusky depot]

first time i see my bed mesh that good

i guess the bl touch was crap lol

[stable viper]

That’s on one of the cast aluminum beds?

Oh nvm I just can’t read as usual

Idk why I’ve been thinking all the beds are within .015 not .15

I think it might have been a unit thing :>

[dusky depot]

i dont think the bed is crooked.. i think that the magnet under it and the pei are not perfect but the mic6 10mm is perfect that i am 100% sure its basicly machine tool aluminium that is surface grinded

[fervent grove]

Or the steel plate the pei is on is a bit shit

[velvet wing]

0.015mm is at the limits of our ability to measure, but AIUI ATP5 and MIC6 can be 0.1 or better.

[fervent grove]

People forget it's a combination of, just an expensive flat mic6 bed doesn't get you a perfectly flat print surface. A quality magnet and print plate are also needed and

[velvet wing]

And Beacon is also way more precise and detailed than we're used to. It's like going to 4k from 640x480.

[fervent grove]

Oh for sure

[stable viper]

Understood understood :>>> thanks guys! Maybe a dumb question but how wildly can surface finishes vary between textured PEI? Or whatever surface you’re using?

[fervent grove]

Depends how big and coarse the pei stuff is. See it has sandpaper

I'm starting to prefer those satin pei plates now

It's more of a smooth surface

Textured kinda masks shit first layers 🤭

[velvet wing]

i feel attacked 😆

I "only" use textured because ABS sticks better. cough

[fervent grove]

Haha it's all good

I've been quite happy with Satin pei

Asa and abs sticks very well for me in a heated chamber

[velvet wing]

I might pick up some next Fabreeko order, then. I like the textured experience but not the finish.

[fervent grove]

This is ASA-CF though

[stable viper]

Purty

Thanks for all the info guys!

[latent pollen]

Those hills are your bolts in your rail

[velvet wing]

is that an artifact of the beacon detecting them?

[stable viper]

I don’t 100% know how beacon works but shouldn’t they ig go away as it gets further away from either side?

[dusky depot]

What do you suggest me doing 🙂 ? Are they the bolts on y axis ?

[still bluff]

@latent pollen ^^^

[latent pollen]

they are, that's why you see them on X as well

but not much you can do

it's just accurate and able to find it XD

[dusky depot]

Oh ok thx 🙂 so is it a good bex mesh then ?

[velvet wing]

I'm gonna guess yes. Best guess would be do a nice, flat print and see how the first layer turns

[velvet wing]

Couple of general questions:

• Orbiter 2 drive: anyone using the new version with lock washers?
• Beacon RevH: anyone using the Kraken mount?

[fringe zephyr]

beacon with kraken maybe after new announced release

[compact compass]

Might do a kraken for the lulz

[cursive obsidian]

I wasn't active for some time here. I tried to go through the messages but if I missed some please remind me.
Anyway @velvet wing here is the PR for universal (RevD RevH) beacon horns https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/pull/36. I tried adding everything for you to merge (printer oriented .stl, .step). I am not sure if some newer versions of affected horns have changed (stock and kraken namely) in the meantime (as of #1041406799342997544 message). Feel free to comment in PR or here.
The Kraken horns I have tested myself (at least on D). The stock (H) were tested earlier AFAIK (#1041406799342997544 message). In CAD everything looks OK.
Didn't do UHF as I didn't do original either. I could look at it later too.

Oh cool just with SW upgrade adding something like TAP for existing Beacon owners ... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zdp6iVPhsWc

[onyx yacht]

I'm using RevH with UHF Kraken

[forest shore]

Any solid EVA options for Bambu hotends + bltouch? Every BL mount I've tried is too low and the probe retracted is below the nozzle.

@bleak stratus

[still bluff]

Might be better off replacing the BL Touch.

[forest shore]

Not out of the question. What's the next best option? I see lots of beacon work as of late.

[still bluff]

Klicky/Beacon are solid.

[forest shore]

Was planning on unklicky but wasn't sure about the servo setup on a standard e5pro

[cursive obsidian]

PCB Klicky is good inexpensive option and provides stable results. I am using Beacon due to the fact my bed is so big. Whole meshing operation with everything else takes sweet time to complete.

[nova garden]

@forest shore I am about to do the same with a BL Hotend, which mount did you use? I have both BLTouch and Klicky as options so I am keen to follow...

[fringe zephyr]

unklicky user here, happy with it. No servo needed

[forest shore]

You're right, no servo. What was I thinking lol 🤦‍♂️

[willow turtle]

Is there a combination of Dragon Ace Hotel module and air product for Beacon rav H? It doesn't fit with anything right now...

[velvet wing]

the dragon ace advertising mentions it's shorter than the original dragon, which is why you're seeing issues.

hotend mounts put the nozzle at one of two heights. if the nozzle is higher, you get collisions with the beacon, like here.

[umbral wave]

i think i orderd the wrong catograph...

shiat...

i got the normal one...

[meager sorrel]

Anyone got a source or the ability to mount a new btt eddy to the eva 3 zero g mod?

[wide turtle]

it has the same form factor as the original voron inductive probe
so I dont think so
You could always get a beacon which is more compact, compatible and you would also support the original creators

[velvet wing]

as zeanon said, it's the same shape as the tap probe. the only way you'd be able to mount it would be on the ABL arm, which is less than ideal.

[spring scaffold]

Aye, I have it mounted on a modded ABL arm atm as close to nozzle as possible on my eva 2.4, but still is off to the side a bit

[deft monolith]

I think the docs are outdated on the orbiter 2.0 or my orbiter mount is from testing because it has fewer screw holes than the docs

[velvet wing]

the picture is outdated, which means I probably need to correct the BOM, too. that's an updated version of the mount.

yep, it's 2x 8mm, 2x 12mm now

[deft monolith]

I figure the 2x12mm in the back and the 2x 8mm in the front?

[obtuse orchid]

Hey. I will start with the EVA 3 Toolhead for my Ender 5 Plus to Mercury Projekt. The problem is i would like use the Creality Sprite SE Extruder and the Creality Spider SPeedy Hotend.

The Extruder is no problem. But i cant find a Modul for the Spider Speedy Hotend. Is the a finished Modell?

The Spider Speedy Is identical in terms of dimensions how the stock hotend+

[deft monolith]

Somehow the beacon doesnt fit (RevH) (Kraken Beacon Version)

[deft monolith]

I have the right parts, it just does not align. Its like the beacon is too small?!

[velvet wing]

I don't know of any support for that hotend. You may have luck if you find an Mk8 or Microswiss All-Metal Hotend mount. Try Printables.

[obtuse orchid]

mhh okay. Is there a stock hotend support?

[velvet wing]

not that I am aware of

the stock hotend is called the Mk8, FWIW

[velvet wing]

There is a pending pull request with a version that cuiviemen developed, but I haven't had a chance to doc edits necessary for the merge. Let me get the info you need and a link.

[obtuse orchid]

mhhh okay then i search a little bit or mod one of the finished moduls. Any idea which of these comes closest to the stock hotend?

[velvet wing]

try the Dragonfly BMS. You might be able to just move the screw holes up or down a little to get the nozzle at the right height.

@deft monolith https://github.com/cuiviemen/E34M1/blob/main/STL/bottom/kraken_beacon.stl
Y Offset is 43.65mm
The FHCS for the rear inlet needs to be no longer than 5mm to avoid interfering with the Beacon sensor (the BOM specifies 6mm currently).
File is in print orientation. Install only the rear pair of heat set inserts.

[deft monolith]

So THATS what is meant with rear screws... maaann i need to print that first. And also find a m3 5mm. Or is one included in the beacon kit? Also the fhcs nut cover didnt work for me, it wouldnt stick 😦

[velvet wing]

an M3x5mm is not included with beacon. the ones included with beacon you'll need to attach it to the bottom horns, but it doesn't include more than that.

[cursive obsidian]

With Beacon you get two flat (or low profile button?) head M3 screws that are to be used with heatsets to mount the D or H Beacon accordingly (revH postion shown in SS). In the SS I highlighted the (optional) Countersunk screw ISO 10642/DIN 7991 M3x5 screw that secures the back with bottom to make sealed assembly. And this screw is not included - to be sourced from any decent HW store.

[cursive obsidian]

Hope this clears the confusion.

[wide turtle]

btw, the screw cover goes onto the back countersunk screw, to provide insulation to the beacon connector

[cursive obsidian]

Oh yea I did https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/main/STL/rear/screw_cap.stl to stick it in the hex of that Countersunk screw so the pins on beacon will in no way touch that screw and potentially short them out.

[deft monolith]

Can i print the bottom horns in PLA or PETG for testing? Just to try it once ;-;

[velvet wing]

sure, just don't print with those on. 🙂

[wide turtle]

I mean one print is probably gonna be fine🤔

[velvet wing]

Depends on your bed temperature 😄

[cursive obsidian]

PETG will last couple of hours (about 3-4h) even near the HE with sillicone sock (and in enclosure with ~50°C). But I'd reprint them immediatelly in ABS/ASA when able. I did it this way when I was printing my first Merc 2.0.

[peak quail]

@velvet wing with the fysetc alumnium sherpa mini, there is a small gap in between the motor and the support. is this on purpose?

[velvet wing]

yeah, it kinda works out that way with my sherpa mini, too. The support is not meant to make direct contact with the motor unless you zip tie it down.

and even then, it's a hack to work around not having the k-type front

[deft monolith]

what i dont understand is how this sticks? My caps fall out, they dont stay

[velvet wing]

the cap is an extra step for safety in case the screw backs out. you should be fine if the flat head cap screw is tight.

[velvet wing]

Thanks to @cursive obsidian we have full Beacon RevH support. Documentation is updated and the pull request finally merged. 😄

[night imp]

Heck yeah. Thanks @velvet wing and @cursive obsidian

Just in time before I'll start my assembling process

[cursive obsidian]

It should stick into the inner hex if you have ISO 10642/DIN 7991 M3 - it is designed against this type of screw. And with mine it does. You can measure the dimension of two hex edges, should be 2mm.

The screw cap has peg that should stick tight into the hex holding the cap in place/covering the screw head.

The diameter of the peg is 2.4mm (I just checked the stl) so it is tight fit.

[cursive obsidian]

Thanks for DOCs 🙇 . I am terrible at that.

[cursive obsidian]

Nitpicking (I know). The old one is RevD not RevB. And if you haven't tweaked the mounts the offsets should be same for all done bottoms stock, kraken, trihorn. Trihorn is missing offsets completely for RevH.
As bonus for potential .eu Beacon customers BOM could now include https://annex-engineering.eu/ as buyer's source since they FINALLY (sorry for caps, I am still sour about paying for big shipping cost from .us and the income tax) acknowledged there is .eu demand too.

[velvet wing]

ooh ❤️

thanks!

[stiff venture]

anyone have a good 10x11 cable chain setup with the e34m1? i dont have clearance above my printer to run a lofted wire guide. i am thinking i'll do a direct cable chain like the bambu p1s and x1c and just wondering what others have done so far as i'm ramping up to do that.

[velvet wing]

Not a lot of folks are using cable chain anymore. I've decommissioned the cable chain from my only printer that was still using it.

sorry for the late response

[haughty fox]

Hey guys!

I made a little mock up UHF kraken mount of my own to old a kusba adxl345 and the new BTT Eddy

If anyone is running a similar setup I'm happy to shoot over the stl! Still untested though as I'm waiting for my eddy, but it should have clearance with the frame when homing.

[proven python]

Does it clear the x endstop though?

[haughty fox]

That is the only thing I'm concerned about

it seems like theres enough clearance but cant be sure until its here

[velvet wing]

you can try flipping the sensor to the other side.

not sure how I feel about mounting something to the side of the duct, though. it's not the sturdiest.

[haughty fox]

Only reason why I'm pushing for it to be on the right side is that you can get the most bed area measured

the left side leaves a big gap

[velvet wing]

ahhh, hrm.

anything sticking out past the endstop is a liability, though

[haughty fox]

That's the only reason, anywhere else and youre sacrificing

[velvet wing]

hrm.

[velvet wing]

have you looked at the dual horns? I doubt there's enough room between the horns for the sensor, but it's worth a look

[haughty fox]

It'll clear the extrusion

[velvet wing]

ohhh it's below the height of the x joint

[haughty fox]

Yep, it obviously cant go below nozzle height

[velvet wing]

ah, and you're on a plus

[haughty fox]

Ill show another angle

[velvet wing]

well, if it works it works, y'know?

[haughty fox]

i hope it does!

I've been racking my brain.. I noticed a drastic loss in print quality with bridges and overhangs when I moved from the trihorn to the dual horn

which is why I really want to make it work with the kraken

[velvet wing]

ah, gotcha

[haughty fox]

At the time when i moved to the Dragon UHF, there wasnt anything other than dual horns

i thought i'd give it a shot, if it works then great, if not try again!

I will show you how the mount works

[velvet wing]

are those for heat set inserts?

[haughty fox]

Yep!

I know theyre thin

I'll make them larger

[velvet wing]

you'll need to widen the walls for sure

1.6mm is a good offset if you can manage that.

[haughty fox]

I went to bed at 4am i forgot 😭

[velvet wing]

lol, no worries

[haughty fox]

Alright I'll figure it out

[velvet wing]

don't forget print orientation, as well. you might want to fill in the space between the two holes and down to the build plate, then chamfer the edge.

[haughty fox]

Oh very true...

Because it's close to the print bed, ill just enable supports

[haughty fox]

Absolutely loving the print quality 😍

I decided to make the mount off the front section

Pictures incoming in a moment

Should be assembled this weekend

[velvet wing]

looks good

[haughty fox]

I know it's not a nozzle mount but it's very close to hotend location and around the same height

Clearance from the nozzle in the Z plane.is about 2mm, Eddy documentation states having it 1-2mm from the bed

Minimum

@velvet wing I think it's in a much better spot than previously planned

I'm also moving from the dual 5015 inlet to the Owl's eyes, I have a feeling that the fans hanging back so far impacts my Y axis input shaper results having that weight hanging so far back, I'd imagine it would shift the moment of inertia and make it oscillate a bit more, I could be wrong on its total effect but we will find out soon!

[velvet wing]

yeah, the owl's eyes were developed later to fix the issues of the regular dual inlet

[haughty fox]

What issues were people facing?

[fringe zephyr]

to me collision with regular dual in the back as I wanted more travel for the sexbolt

[velvet wing]

yep, available y axis, mostly

[haughty fox]

Ahhh I see, the only issue i had was the fan touching the stepper tower, however fixed it with the toolhead moving off the X endstop a bit to clearance it

[haughty fox]

Eddy mount done!

[ivory finch]

Nice, and I was about to ask if this has been done yet, lol.

[haughty fox]

Yep! just needed to modify the top piece and create a bracket, it has been working great, I just finished modifying it to have slots to allow for minor adjustments

I'm really happy to send the STEP file to anyone who needs it incase you need to modify it for your setup specifically

one thing I've noticed is that it might potentially need some gold reflective tape applied to protect it from the heat of the hotend

because while printing enclosed the eddy went up to about 102c ;-;

and that was just a clear thick plastic tarp over the printer

[velvet wing]

i wonder how the eddy handles temperature drift

[haughty fox]

Well you have to tune it specifically in intervals

The procedure requires you to get it as hot as possible and then do a 3-5c increment from the coldest value

To do a paper clearance test as it heats back up with the nozzle and bed

Takes a long time

But I only did it to 80c which 85 is technically its max operating temp

but I think the proximity to the hotend doesnt help...

Have to remember even in an enclosure, you can have an idle hotend temp lower as the bed stabilises, the eddy wont get very hot. Maybe about 55-60c before it starts printing

Thought I had some gold tape around from the race car but I must have used it all, so it's either I rethink the mounting situation or I get some more and give it another shot, I like the location it's in though, I can get a full bed scan no compromises

[lucid aurora]

Have you had any issues with having to change the z-offset for a new print after a save config/fw restart? Ref: https://github.com/bigtreetech/Eddy/issues/5

[haughty fox]

I haven't printed much with it lately as I'm waiting for my new adxl

[haughty fox]

Found this in the Eddy github

[lucid aurora]

That is new and appears like they've updated the readme with the fix that was suggested in issue #5.

[haughty fox]

Yep.. might need to look into this

That's a real shame, companies love releasing products that aren't ready yet

[lucid aurora]

The joys of being an early adopter!

[lost dome]

@velvet wing I just redid the whole printhead with the newest parts and love the changes - the new belt grabbers are much better!

[velvet wing]

yeah, I like them a LOT more, too

[ivory finch]

https://tenor.com/view/creepy-window-quagmire-family-guy-gif-552529418064828335

[ivory finch]

@velvet wing which version of cartographer for the EVA 3 tool head?

ordered low profile, lol

[proven python]

yeah I think eva34m1 only supports the low profile version, assuming low profile cartographer is the exact same as low profile beacon

[ivory finch]

should be, and when I click on the dual horns version for the beacon, I get the 404 file doesn't exist error...

[proven python]

I prefer to use the kraken horns (and maybe that's why no one noticed the bug) but the ones you're looking for should be here https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/main/STL/bottom/stock_bottom_beacon.stl

[ivory finch]

never mind, just got the stock from the github. lol.

[proven python]

lol

[lost dome]

btw any plans to adopt the v-core 4 4028 cooler solution for the eva3? seems to be a beast

[fringe zephyr]

vcore 3.1 also uses it, but I think we don't have room for it

[velvet wing]

won't fit. 😕

[lost dome]

ok :/ damn - my dual 5015 sounds like a leafblower haha

[fringe zephyr]

don't expect the 4028 to be quieter

[compact compass]

Is there a goliath hotend mount for EVA 3?

[velvet wing]

good question. lemme look.

https://www.printables.com/model/450475-eva-3-goliath-adapter
appears it does have one

definitely read the comments on that model for info you may need

[compact compass]

Yeah. A good amount of comments at least.

[fossil brook]

I'd like a copy of your step!

[peak quail]

@velvet wing is there a version of E34M1 that work with beacon revH?

It works with my low profile revE

but i may have printed the wrong files

nevermind I have outdated files. Thanks

[timber halo]

Hello there, I am using Eva 3 Mod with 3 horns and dragon hot end, printed in abs. The only trouble I am facing is the right horn gets melted from time to time by the proximity of the heat cartridge cable. I am in the 3rd duct printed. I must be doing something wrong, just can't figure out what.

[stark cipher]

Are you using the Mosquito Large Heater block?

If not you're meant to use dual horns.

You could print it in ASA that has a sligtly higher melting point

[timber halo]

No, I am using Dragon's default

[stark cipher]

Having the trihorn you get most of the wind going through the center horns

having more wind going through the right horn might be enough to protect it from melting

[timber halo]

I will try dual horn. Did not realize that side effect

Thanks a lot

[stark cipher]

NP, Not a garanteed fix but worth a try

Let us know if that works

[timber halo]

Sure

[velvet wing]

Is the heater cartridge itself touching the horns? Or is the cable getting hot enough to melt things? #1 is possible, #2 is bad.

[timber halo]

The right horn is broken as you can see

The cartridge is not touching the horn. I don't know the temperature of the cable.

[cursive obsidian]

I would lead the heater cartridge wiring upwards instead of bottom if you can. You will not obstruct the duct and the view at the nozzle would not be obstructed either. The EVA3.0 HE module should have hole for securing the wiring using zip-tie.

[peak quail]

Any tips for installing the plastic screw cap for beacon?

can’t get it to press into the back of my FHCS. It is a 2mm drive, which I think is standard on M3 FHCS?

[velvet wing]

glue it? 😁

[peak quail]

I am worried about heat, I would prefer to press it in place

[velvet wing]

tbh I don't have a good solution. I super tightened my screw and left the cap off.

[stark cipher]

Combined with Vibetite VC3

[true turtle]

Does PCB klicky work with the bottom horns?

[velvet wing]

it does not

[true turtle]

Which klicky is recommended? Klicky NG?

[velvet wing]

regular, ng, or unklicky all work well

[fringe zephyr]

unklicky FTW

[spark dragon]

@velvet wing heya mate, long time... finally rebuilding my printer and would like to know if you make a mount for the BTT Eddy? Thanks

[velvet wing]

@haughty fox made a mount, but don't know if they published it. Hopefully a ping will help with this conundrum. 🙂

[spark dragon]

thanks. While I wait to see if @haughty fox replies, I did find this, so might give it a try... right after my new EBB42 arrives since I accidentally fried mine, lol

https://www.printables.com/model/914746-eva-24-btt-eddy-mount

[velvet wing]

that uses a different mounting method, so almost certainly won't work

also, I ❤️ EBB42 more than EBB36. good choice.

[spark dragon]

yeah, the EBB42 has been great. i use it with the bondtech LGX (big) and rapido v2... sucks I wired my CAN BUS power backwards on the rebuild, lol

[spark dragon]

damn, ok. I'll play around with it and see if I can make something work

[spark dragon]

funny thing is, I just realized this thread is for the eva 3, not 2.4 while that mount I posted is for eva 2.4 :/

found this: https://github.com/bigtreetech/Eddy/tree/master/3D/EDDY_PRINT_PARTS/EVA3

[velvet wing]

I'm taking a look at those to see if they're workable

[velvet wing]

ah, I see they all use the ABL mount arm.

[spark dragon]

yeah, I noticed that also after printing them lol

working on my bastardized rendition of a mount now

[velvet wing]

incoming

y offset is 14.6, x offset is 34.25mm

[velvet wing]

fixed an issue

updated file, too

[spark dragon]

dude, you're awesome... I've been trying to '3d builder' and 'tinkercad' my way through making a mount for the past 4 hours, lol

[velvet wing]

yeah, I saw you were working on it and didn't want to leave you to suffer forever, lol. the abl arm takes a lot of work to fit in such a narrow space

lmk if you have any issues!

[spark dragon]

haha, yeah... I started with the cr touch and btt eva3 eddy mounts and have been trying to mash them together, lol. thanks a ton man

[spark dragon]

looks good to me. thanks again man

[velvet wing]

I've pushed abl_eddy.stl and the docs entries to the repo. Docs should update shortly. Support is for standard-length hotends only ATM.

[spring scaffold]

Linked yours in my eddy mount thread, as yours is definitely recommended over mine and what I will use aswell when I swap 😉

[true turtle]

My original rapido died recently and I replaced it with a rapido 2. I'm using the E34M1 mount with the abl_bl_touch mount. With the new rapido 2, the abl probe is lower than the nozzle. Both are just the regular versions, not the HF flow version. Nothing else has changed in my setup. Are there differences in the two or any other ideas why I wouldn't have clearance now? Actually, thinking about it again, I did replace the pin, so maybe the aftermarket pins I purchased are slightly longer?

[velvet wing]

huh. how much are we talking? 1mm? 5mm?

[true turtle]

I might be really dumb. I just realized that the set screw to replace the pin actually adjusts the pin height.

I had it cranked down all the way.

[velvet wing]

technically it controls the sensitivity of the pin to probe touches, but it also controls the retracted height, yeah

[hexed current]

I am a little hesitant to post this but every part of my EVA is PETG. I have over 100hrs on it without any signs of issues. FWIW I am running a mosquito hotend and mainly printed PETG so YMMV. I have some ASA to reprint parts with should the need arise.

[velvet wing]

PETG can do okay on the toolhead if you're not enclosed. It's once the air temperature rises that ASA shines.

[hexed current]

yea I am not enclosed which is a big reason I haven't used the ASA yet. The printer sits about 3ft from me while I am working so probably not a great idea without it.

[compact compass]

@velvet wing hi, do you have any plans on making a 9mm version for the eva 3?

[velvet wing]

nope. definitely wouldn't fit in the current design.

[fringe zephyr]

@velvet wing what's the beacon version for e34m1

low?

[velvet wing]

low profile, yep

[fringe zephyr]

ok

ty

[velvet wing]

I've added @obsidian frigate's 18mm probe mount to the docs. Should be live in a sec.

[spring scaffold]

thinking I am going to adapt this, as it seems there has still been some problems etc. I might bodgy this one on over into an adapter plate for now

https://github.com/chirpy2605/voron/tree/main/V0/Dragon_Burner_Cutter

[velvet wing]

if it works, def lemme know. lots of folks are looking for a toolhead cutter.

[spring scaffold]

ok, it will need some modification, but I reckon I could combine the sherpa-mini mount and the cutter mount into one. either way it would have to be adapted per extruder mount, but if we have the extruder mount combined into the top plate, only the top plate of the cutter would need changing per extruder

basically, the cutter assembly replaces the existing changeable extruder mount, and the currect changeable mount basically incorporated into it

[stark cipher]

Has anyone made or found a minimalist shroud that just covers the 4010 fan?

[velvet wing]

https://main.eva-3d.page/heat_insert/shrouds/small/

that's the smallest one i know of

[stark cipher]

Still not minimalist enough. 😄

[velvet wing]

fair enough 🙂

[stark cipher]

I saw that, that's closer to what I'm looking:
https://www.printables.com/model/236773-eva-30-slim-shroud

[velvet wing]

do you want the fan blades covered?

[stark cipher]

It's just I got a 3pin 4010 noctua fan cause the NH36 has a 3pin fan connector, but given it's brown color you see why, I'm looking to cover it. 😄

[velvet wing]

is this one still too big?

[stark cipher]

Blades could be partialy cover but not in a way it would hinder air flow

[stark cipher]

It's the RR logo that bothers me

[velvet wing]

ahhh

[stark cipher]

I guess I could try and cover it with assembling basic geometry in slicer

[velvet wing]

yeah, that's probably easiest

[stark cipher]

Looks like I nailed it:

Now that's more how I like it

[velvet wing]

noice

[lucid aurora]

Been eyeballing the EVA 3 so here come the dumb questions. I have a creality spider 3 hotend which will use the V6 style parts that I have to mod, will the rest of the "ecosystem" work around that?

I modded the 2.4 for this hotend and am wondering if everything else will slap together like the rest of the 2.4 did. https://www.printables.com/model/814278-eva-240-spec-creality-spider-30-mount

[velvet wing]

the v2 and v3 mounts are not interchangeable, unfortunately. if you can get a mount for EVA 3, though, it will work fine.

[stable viper]

Just got my lp beacon rev h so was about to print out a new duct and was wondering if the kraekn uhf and the uhf are the same ig z-height for the air flow if that makes sense?

[velvet wing]

like the height that the air blows at?

[stable viper]

yeah!

[velvet wing]

yep, effectively the same. it's directly differently, but they function the same

[stable viper]

understood! Thanks!

excited to see how the beacon performs hehe

[velvet wing]

dude it's crazy

[stable viper]

seen honestly only good things lol

[velvet wing]

yeah, same. I'm guessing you felt the same way I did when buying it, too.

hopeful glee, that is

lol

[stable viper]

yeah lmfao I was like dang I kinda want it when it was starting to get big and all the cheaper versions came out and then they pushed contact and was like gimme

Am curious how that differs from what the qidi q1pro and bambu does to set their z offset--I think they marketed it as the only automatic z offset

oh wait maybe they meant probe instead of automatic z offsest in general

[velvet wing]

I haven't configured that bit yet, too busy troubleshooting other stuff unrelated to beacon.

the contact probe is pretty configurable, though

[stable viper]

Hope its not too bad lmfao very fun (I'm sweating profusely) when the people making the machine need to trouble shoot 🤡

That is not english nvm I was just trying to be funny

I'll let you know how it goes! probably goign to be asking questions in one of the other channels1

[velvet wing]

good luck!

[peak quail]

how do you guys route your beacon cable?

[stuck wing]

Is it flat or standard version of beacon that should be used for the horn with beacon mount?

[velvet wing]

low profile

[velvet wing]

around the right side. the second screw hole for the 5010 fan has a zip tie through it

better yet, use Cuiviemen's rear inlet for beacon, which has a zip tie anchor built in there, too

[stuck wing]

Going to order the cartographer and second 5015. It is only the owl version that works with beacon like probes right?

[velvet wing]

i stated that poorly. cuiviemen came up with the idea, and i moved it to the 5015 inlet.

[velvet wing]

I'd go with the owl version, yeah. seems less intrusive.

i.e. takes less space

[stuck wing]

Okay, but do the regular work with beacon? I cant see a becon version of it

[velvet wing]

ohhh I answered before I finished my first cup of coffee, lol. one sec.

yep, it does.https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/rear/#__tabbed_2_2

[stuck wing]

Okay, think I will go with the owl but good to know what options I have ☺️

[velvet wing]

oh my bad, by regular you're wondering about the normal dual horns. no, I never made a beacon version because the owl's eyes are so much more popular.

(I finished my coffee, lol)

[stuck wing]

Haha, owl version it is then! 😅

[peak quail]

Where can I find that file

[still bluff]

https://www.printables.com/model/438193-beacon-3d-mount-solution-for-e34m1-eva-3-for-mercu

I think?

[peak quail]

Yeah i will probably just stick with the one I have. I dont want to solder to my PCB

[obsidian frigate]

Is de-soldering/re-soldering still required? The STLs are newer in the github than the printables.com page https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/tree/main/STL/bottom - pinging @velvet wing for clarification

[still bluff]

The page you linked is for the bottom duct, not the rear (if you're referring to Beef's question).

[still bluff]

I did not have to desolder my Beacon to make it work with the E34M1.

[obsidian frigate]

I just bourbon in my hot chocolate 🤪

[cursive obsidian]

That was my old design for routing cable in between the fan and the back plate. It requires soldering the cable straight to PCB. I wouldn't recommend that as it is non removable instalation - that's why I flag it obsolete. For RLF35 fan I did slide in channels on the backplate that helps securing the cable - #1041406799342997544 message
I will look at 5015 backplate and make the channels there too.

[fossil brook]

I've ordered one of these "HGX Lite 2.0" extruders from Aliexpress and will be here next week

the mounting dimensions look like this:

Can someone provide me some guidance on creating a mount for this?

[velvet wing]

do you have Fusion or some other software installed for the task?

[fossil brook]

I'm using OnShape and have been looking at the orginal Eva 3 OnShape, possibly modifying the Orbiter plates as my starting point.

[velvet wing]

oh sick. okay, you can import the E34M1 STEP files. they're in the /cad folder on the git repo.

Start with the E34M1 ones. They've all been made lighter.

[fossil brook]

So ignore EVA 3 and use yours for better outcome?

[velvet wing]

does this beast mount from underneath?

screw holes are on the bottom of the extruder?

[fossil brook]

appears to as the M3's are threaded.

Should i start w/ Orbiter or some other drive?

[velvet wing]

I know I have one for this. One sec.

I don't see it in the git repo, so I'm checking my Fusion files

[fossil brook]

yeah i looked at your stuff first.

[velvet wing]

well, dang, I don't have one for this?

Okay, so you'll wanna bore out holes in the bottom of the plate for the screw heads. 3mm deep, 6mm dia.

[fossil brook]

Use which extruder as my starting point?

[velvet wing]

use a flat one, tbh. then add a support for the motor.

lesse, lgx lite is good

[fossil brook]

LGX lite is bottom bolted

yeah exactly

[velvet wing]

lol, I just saw that

okay, cool, so you should be gtg. got the extruder model?

[fossil brook]

i've found this: https://www.printables.com/model/700204-hgx-lite-20-oblique-tooth-extruder-mock-up-model

[velvet wing]

perfect!

make sure the model is lined up correctly with the ptfe tube. the rest is easy.

[fossil brook]

no idea how accurate this is as i dont have it in hand yet

but those are variables i can adjust

[velvet wing]

yeah. and you can check the important bits of the model against the drawing.

[fossil brook]

motor support is prob my biggest uncertainty

[velvet wing]

yeah. I admit I'm not wild about unsupported motors. and there's a question of how much clearance to leave between the motor and the support. I leave about 0.2mm, I think?

[fossil brook]

everyone's printer tolerance is different as are the manufacturing tolerances.

[velvet wing]

I find it kinda fascinating how the resonance appears in the extruded plastic.

[fossil brook]

alright, i've cloned all the important bits in OnShape

thanks for the hint!

[fossil brook]

If anyone wants to see my progress and clone: https://cad.onshape.com/documents/693ba81475e82b0e1597f9e1/w/0c68e2416a3c23c599acae2e/e/8b7fd801dd8567ab9c49c15b

[fossil brook]

hint on how to deal with these?
Blue arrow: make the recess less than 3mm?
Red arrow: Safe to extend this edge by 3-4mm?

[velvet wing]

red arrow, yes it's safe

blue...you may need to drop that screw hole and use another. there are more places you can mount than the extruder module uses.

[fossil brook]

Thanks for the tip! Gotta make sure it makes sense for assembly through

Can't use a hole that gets covered by the extruder since it's bolted on from the bottom

[ivory finch]

Is there a CNC option for the EVA 3?

[fringe zephyr]

nope

[obsidian frigate]

I think someone adapted the CNC Vz printhead to M1.1?

[fringe zephyr]

yes there is printed vz

[stuck wing]

Just got my carto and have printed the kraken for beacon. I am not quite sure on which holes the carto pcb should mount to. back or front ones?

[velvet wing]

i think front. back ones are for beacon rev H, and I don't think it uses that form factor.

[stuck wing]

Can i check myself somehow?

[velvet wing]

compare the cartographer specs with beacon?

[stuck wing]

Carto is using the revD formfactor

So I guess front ones

[velvet wing]

yep

[fringe zephyr]

good to know, my wallet ended up telling me to try carto, half the price and there was no beacon stock

[stuck wing]

I will hopefully get it installed today! Looking forward getting rid of my unklicky as well with this!

[fringe zephyr]

magnets keep popping off, tired of dealing with it

[stuck wing]

Happened to me couple of weeks ago as well, one magnet after the other 😅

[wide turtle]

Shame on you XD

[stark cipher]

https://tenor.com/view/shame-game-of-thrones-gif-11381550

[fossil brook]

Got my extruder today; I can now resume designing the mount!

@velvet wing why discontinue the toolhead PCB mounts?

[velvet wing]

I made them for larger, NEMA17 steppers. There are a number of existing solutions for NEMA14, like Turtlecrawler's.

[true turtle]

Just ordered a beacon. Is the fan duct the only thing I need to reprint?

[true turtle]

Nevermind. It looks like there are a few other parts I need to print.

[fossil brook]

@velvet wing take a look? I've made the screw head holes 2.9mm to cover the overlapping holes and it fits fine.

I'm also supporting just the edge of the stepper to save a tad of weight and more heat dissipation.

[velvet wing]

looks okay, yeah

[fossil brook]

so it turns out I cannot tighten the 2 front screws with the extruder mounted. has there been any observed issues where we can't use the 2 front bolts?

[fossil brook]

I can only bolt on the extruder mount via the rear 4 screw holes. @velvet wing take a look again?

[quasi pine]

I might be to blame for that, I kept poking him to get on the tap beta program… 🤭

but tbh, I thought carto was pure plagiarism, but they did a tremendous work, independently from beacon

[velvet wing]

sorry, i was awol today. i'll look in the morning.

[fossil brook]

I got it mounted and it extrudes 🙂

[velvet wing]

nice!

[fossil brook]

Is there a good reason to not integrate a filament runout sensor into the base of the extruder mount?

[true turtle]

Which holes do you use for the beacon mount on the kraken horns? The guide only shows 2 holes, but the part has 4.

It looks like it needs to be the rear holes to accommodate the USB connector.

Ah, just saw the variant note... Nevermind me...

[true turtle]

Ok, I swear I read and searched the docs this time. What is the beacon offset for the kraken horns? I'm not sure where to measure from on the beacon.

[still bluff]

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/bottom/#__tabbed_2_2

[true turtle]

Doh! I give up 🤣

[hollow garnet]

In the proces of converting my e5+ to merc1.1, however I seem to be missing something regarding mounting my BL-touch. I am running the eva 3.0 toolhead with a Rapido 2.0 UHF. This means that I of course printed the UHF hotend module as well as UHF bottom horns. Due to sourcing issues, I am running the old BL-touch until I find a vendor with Klicky or beacon in stock in Denmark.

Now onto the problem. the UHF BL-touch side mount does not seem to have the correct length, so the BL-touch is hovering above my nozzle. Furthermore the models appears to be flipped around compared to the stock length side mount, in regards to which side the heat inserts are put in from. Perhaps I am missing something obvious?

[quasi pine]

I think there are 2 versions for the bltouch mount, at least in the docs

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/abl/#__tabbed_2_2

[quasi pine]

for beacon, you should look at the annex shop in eu, https://annex-engineering.eu/product-category/electronics/

[hollow garnet]

Yes, i tried both versions, but unfortunately neither seems to work

[hollow garnet]

perhaps I should just accept defeat regarding the Bl-touch and order the Beacon from them.

[quasi pine]

I think bltouch glorious days are past, it works but “it seems so 2019”. I am using a printed (un)klicky since a couple of years now, with a reasonable low amount of frustrations. PS by this rate we’ll have to do a Danish zeroG Day 😝

[hollow garnet]

Yeah I know, it also gives me quite inconsistens results. Haha, I have been following along on the sideline for quite some time, but only recently decided to start my conversion. But I have noticed quite a few Danes in here.

[hollow garnet]

Another question.
Still having to order CAN bus cable so that I can wire this thing, however, I am unsure which cable from 3DO I should choose. Ordinary CAN bus or CAN bus + USB cable. Which one should I get?

[quasi pine]

I made my own canbus cable, it’s enough to twist the H/L wires, and having some thicker wires for the 24v+/-. but it depends if you are planning to have beacon/carto/idm (I can see 3do sells the idm scanner) you can use the usb for that. otherwise just canbus cable is fine

[hollow garnet]

uhh haven't noticed 3DO has the idm scanner actually. But looking at it right now, it has a CAN or USB connection choice. but if I were to choose the CAN IDM version, shouldn't I just be able to go with the regular CAN cable from them?

Seems like the easiest route for me would be their ordinary CAN cable and then purchase the CAN idm version.

Guess the idm scanner is same as beacon right? Same functions or what?

oh and by the way, did you go sensorless homing or did you go physical x and y endstops?

I've got the skr mini E3 v3, so I assume I should be able to configure sensorless homing

[quasi pine]

I think it’s a bit complicated, beacon is the original creator/idea. right after came out a “cloned” version, the cartographer, which to me it’s now gone its own way and made a compelling alternative to beacon. I think the IDM scanner is the same as the cartographer, but without the cartographer support, and it’s supposed to be sold only in China, but apparently it’s not (I think mellow technical can export it’s a mess as usual)

[quasi pine]

I am still physical endstop for both x and y 😅

[quasi pine]

yes, that should work, I think they might even provide a splice cable to connect the ebb to the idm. my 2c, I think usb is not to bad either, it’s just less hassle compared to canbus. maybe klipper canbus implementation needs a bit more consolidation

but also I haven’t updated klipper in 6 months so..

[hollow garnet]

Guess i'll start out by running physical endstops as well then haha

[hollow garnet]

hmm I think I will be bying 2 metres of the ordinary CAN cable from 3DO and their listed IDM scanner with CAN as well. That should hopefully get me started.

[quasi pine]

true, be aware that the idm scanner might give you a nice and fast mesh, but right now, the only 2 that replace completely a bltouch are the beacon and the cartographer. they implement a nozzle to bed detection. With the idm (maybe the carto firmware also works, but it’s unsupported) you might need an endstop of some sort to home z

[hollow garnet]

argh damn, I'm currently finding info on this IDM scanner as we write.
But if that is the case (regarding necessity for a separate z endstop of some sort) that would be a big downside for me.

[quasi pine]

also idm at 50€, it’s not too far from beacon.. just half

I mean, 50€ is a high price for it imo

[hollow garnet]

yeah another good point. If going for beacon, the best place would be annex.eu if I recall, right?

Should probably get the low profile version then, as I am running the rapido 2.o UHF, but will have to dig into that

[quasi pine]

well, on 3do discord I just asked, people with idm will try the survey touch feature with the carto fw flashed on, and see if it works 😂

[hollow garnet]

Interesting, lets see what people figure out haha

[stable viper]

I’m pretty sure the UHF one you’re mounting on the wrong side haha one of them the BL touch gets lunged on the bottom while the other the top

From UHF heat set locations @hollow garnet

[hollow garnet]

jesus! 😫 😆 Knew it was something obvious I was missing! Just tried mocking it up, and indeed it seems to be correct! haha
Thanks man! Then atleast I can get this thing running and consider beacon for the future

[stable viper]

—Dw I did the same thing—

Whatever the cross through thing is

I did it

[hollow garnet]

Thank you sir! got it mounted finally haha

[stable viper]

Yessir 🫡🫡🫡

[velvet wing]

sorry I'm late, but glad it got sorted 🙂

[tranquil jasper]

Is the bottom hole of the kraken beacon horn self tapping? It is the v0.6c version

Also, which hole do I add headsets for the beacon?

oh, just read the variant notes lol. Only downside is that i have a carto, so i am not sure which bottom hole to use for heatset lol

[stable viper]

I think someone had this problem earlier in the chat

If you search cartographer or carto it might show up :>

[tranquil jasper]

Sweet! Thanks

[tranquil jasper]

How recommended is the split ring washers?😅 forgot to pick up them up but i have loctite😅

[stuck wing]

It should be the holes closest to the nozzle 🙂

[ivory finch]

Either set works. I have mine in the ones in the back. Helps keep high heat from the heater block away from it.

[tranquil jasper]

Would having the 2 sets of heatsets affect the beacon readings?

Also, am I dumb? I can't see how I am meant to mount the ebb36 on the pcb board mount 😅

[stable viper]

It’s the two screws on the left and right

[tranquil jasper]

And how do I connect it to the toolhead?

[stable viper]

I’m assuming the two screws above? I don’t use any PCBs so I don’t have any solid answers :/

[ivory finch]

No, they won't, as they are outside the scanning area or the carto/beacon. And did you figure out the ebb36 mount?

[quasi pine]

I don’t know why manufacturers made the “36” versions pcb. the 42 versions has a much nicer size (smaller) and shape. jon passed me a mount for the ebb42 with shroud that’s just fantastic. the 36 you’d need to use the same bore for the pcb and the spacer to the motor. the two threads on top are for the pcb shroud

the pcb in display is the THR36, it’s just a different shape but it’s the same principle to mount the EBB36

[tranquil jasper]

That's no worries

[tranquil jasper]

I didn't. I have the mount I was using for the eva 2.4 so I will probably see if that still works

[ivory finch]

The mount screws into the brass stand offs, and the board then screws into the mount. Not sure if you need heat set inserts of nuts for it.

[tranquil jasper]

I figured it out lol. Was kinda expecting the cable coming out of the ebb to go straight up but it is at a bit of an angle

[night imp]

Picking up the hobby again. Anyone running EVA 3 Mercury mod with a beacon? If so low profile or normal?

[still bluff]

I am using a low profile with EVA 3

[night imp]

That's all I need to hear baby. Time to order😎

[fair lantern]

For those of you using the Mosquito and struggling with cooling on the E34M1/EVA3 - it's not you or the mosquito. Redesigned the mounting bracket to duct into the cooling chamber rather than blow into the heatsink creating turbulence, and also went ahead and expanded the exhaust to help with airflow. I was getting really bad heat creep and redesigned the cooling portion of the mount.

I also submitted a pull request on the Github, but I'll let @velvet wing be the judge of whether it's merge-worthy!

[fair lantern]

Definitely go w/ Beacon, but my main issue w/ Eva3 + beacon was w/ the Kraken horns. Never got around to changing the design, but the mounting points for the beacon would show signs of deflection after a print, so the beacon position would change after every heat-cycle. Currently using a TriHorn w/ Mosquito and that's a significant improvement, although the actual horns seem to be uneven relative to the Mosquito. Not sure if it's an installation error, but I had a similar problem w/ my UHF Dragon + Kraken.

[velvet wing]

hey, saw your email last night, and I'm definitely going to bring this in. The EVA 3 inlet design there is definitely not good. Your solution is great!

[true turtle]

What do you mean signs of deflection? Like physically moved?

[velvet wing]

that's very odd and makes me think of loose heat set inserts, fwiw

maybe a very tight usb cable pushing on the pcb?

[fair lantern]

No no, like it melts from the heat. And yes, @velvet wing as far as the crooked mount goes I'm definitely suspecting crooked heat sets, but I've reprinted and reinstalled them multiple times with different methods each to try and center into the hole as much as I could and the result has always been the same: right horn(s) sagging lower than the left (sometimes more so over the course of multiple prints). Hence why I'm suspecting it may be from the heat block.

[fair lantern]

Thank you! Only problem I ran into during printing was that I forgot to disable slowing down for bridges. My PAHT-CF bridges better when printing at full speed and 80% flow.

[velvet wing]

how hot is the area? bed/chamber temps? and what material?

[fair lantern]

Chamber temps registering at 50C tops, while Beacon is registering the hot plate area during the first 10-15 layers around 80-100C. Material is printing at 300C, and the material used is Sirayatech PAHT-CF

[velvet wing]

the whole toolhead?

[velvet wing]

is the whole toolhead PA12 CF?

[fair lantern]

Not sure if it's PA12, ST advertises it as PA only. But yes the toolhead is a nylon-CF including the horns.

https://siraya.tech/products/siraya-tech-fibreheart-paht-cf-colors-1-75mmfilament-fdmprinting

[velvet wing]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polyphthalamide
This stuff does not mess around.

[velvet wing]

do you have any issues installing the M3 x 45mm screws for the horns? could those inserts be crooked?

[next bear]

are the tube lengths the same as for the 2.4?

[velvet wing]

PTFE? no. check the docs, the lengths are listed for each hotend and extruder

[next bear]

Cheers, I think I'm just been a bit blind 😅

[river helm]

I think something is suppose to go here. What am I missing ? My umbilical cable is not that big

[still bluff]

I believe that STL is made for true umbilical wiring, not CANbus umbilical.

You can find a much smaller STL for an EBB36 easily.

[next bear]

Am i missing a trick printing the ducts, all seem to come up pretty holey?

[velvet wing]

one sec, there's a setting

[velvet wing]

make sure "detect thin walls" is on in the Print Settings

lmk if that does not help

[next bear]

if thats the same as "thin walls" in SS

then its on 🙂

[next bear]

if it helps, from your lot jon, it's only in the kraken one for me so far.
but i was trying a couple 2 and 3 horns for the klicky pcb, they all have the same issue as your kraken with holes showing through.

[velvet wing]

hummm...okay, try it again with detect thin walls/thin walls off.

[next bear]

turning it off makes more holes,

[velvet wing]

lol, so it does fix an issue, just not this one

damn

[hollow garnet]

Currently finishing up the last wiring on my Mercury, and I ended up going with the top module with a microswitch. However, I am not sure how to optimally secure the switch into the top module? Thinking of super glying the switch in place, but not entirely sure if thats strong enough.

[wide turtle]

I think you are supposed to use self tapping m2x10 screws

[velvet wing]

I believe you are correct, most mods use those screws.

[velvet wing]

You probably need the self-tappings crews mentioned above. You can "borrow" them from your Ender 5's old endstops, if necessary.

[hollow garnet]

That's a great idea, will just take a look at them, as otherwise I dont believe I have any lying around

[velvet wing]

good luck. holler if you run into any other snags with the toolhead.

[hollow garnet]

will do! thanks a lot!
Now that I have you here, perhaps you have an answer on top of your head of another question I have.
I know this thread is for EVA 3, but regarding hooking up the A and B steppers. I have the BTT skr mini e3 v3. Which stepper should be plugged into the x and y port? Or perhaps it doesnt matter? I suppose I can just invert their direction in the cfg?

[velvet wing]

X=A Y=B

[hollow garnet]

Thank you sir!

[velvet wing]

wait, right?

there's a reference somewhere...one sec

[hollow garnet]

Cool, have tried looking for the subject, but have not been able to find any info

[velvet wing]

check the zerog manual in concepts, page 16. left is x=a, right is y=b

my brain stuttered and i had to look it up, lol

[hollow garnet]

Will do! Thanks for the help

[charred escarp]

Hey I am working on my Merc/hydra build with the E34M1 toolhead and I was wondering if you guys think the kraken fan horn is overkill for my use case? I only plan to run a single 1510 fan. If you guys think its blows air more uniformly than the standared twin horn I will give it a try.

[velvet wing]

yeah, go for kraken. the horns are kinda crooked on the dual horns.

[atomic night]

My E34M1 works great with the kraken part cooler. Much better than the dual horn i was running.

[charred escarp]

Ok awesome, I will give it a shot!

[deft monolith]

Has this been merged into your upstream? Or do i need to use cuiviemens fork

[velvet wing]

yep, looks like i merged it in a week later

[hollow garnet]

Finally got the printer fired up again after converting the old ender 5 +, however now onto setting up the klipper config, which will probably be the toughest part for me.

Had the original ender 5 + running shortly with klipper, before tearing the whole thing apart.
Now with all the new hardware installed, including canbus, I am on a mission to have a proper config made

Currently I'm stuck on connecting my x-endstop, which is my only component not yet connected.

Im running an ebb36 with a skr mini e3 v3
Physical endstop is an integrated microswitch into the top module of the E34M1
Whenever I seem to plug in the endstop, the entire toolhead wont power on, until I remove the connector for the x-endstop.
What could I be doing wrong?

Oh well, guess I figured it out finally myself, had forgotten to change my x-endstop pin in the cfg

[velvet wing]

oh yeah, that'll cause issues

[fossil brook]

I've modded the kraken_stock bottom to support PCB Klicky:
https://cad.onshape.com/documents/569a1e4a295d0b5c14fcf17b/w/2eb6d89dc503538ffd07a844/e/9816cbb71f4ce2c3d99ed2e8

Printing now and will let you'all know about my testing results.

[fair lantern]

apologies for the delayed responses - between boucing from the shop to the engr dept at school I keep forgetting to check msgs. Nope, no issues - goes right in. For all I know the print may even be warping.

[fair lantern]

So far I have printed with that Mosquito duct for a few hundred hours and it has been great - zero clogging and I can feel the air exhausting comfortably. I use a Honeybadger fan. I have tried using a Noctua 40mm fan previously, but I must've been doing something wrong, because it wouldn't turn anywhere near as fast as the Honeybadger.

Although even with the slower turning Noctua I was doing significantly better than the original duct, that is until I needed to use TPU.

Speeds:

Accels:

Primarily printing at 300*C or more using PAHT and PA6.

[velvet wing]

if this is for TPU, it's way too fast

if that's the only filamnet you're having trouble with, that's likely why

[fair lantern]

Oh, no that's for everything but TPU, specifically for filaments engineered for high speed - such as the Form Futura ApolloX and Sirayatech PAHT.

[velvet wing]

gotcha. great accels there, btw.

[fair lantern]

Thank you! Still need to go back and calibrate PA, but works well all things considered.

And thank you for the Eva port - it's seriously brilliant.

[stiff venture]

hey @velvet wing why do you reckon that's the case, that people aren't really using cable chains anymore? and why did you decide to decommission the cable chain from your own printer? I'm trying to decide how to run toolhead cabling in my soon-to-be-built beta frame and cable chain seemed the most appealing to me.

[velvet wing]

a couple of reasons:

• cable chains require anchor points, which adds mass and complexity to the toolhead
• chains have a minimum bending radius and require wiring that won't wear form the constant strain
• a stiff umbilical is shorter and lighter
• chains can sometimes limit the size of the build plate (usually on the y axis)
• chains are harder to service than an umbilical

[dusk pelican]

I am using a chain, but agree with all the points you brought up, it can be both functional and handsome but user will sacrifice speed if that is whosever's goal, so using a chain is a personal preference that choices would have to be made. BTW thank you for this awesome tool head, I am extremely happy with my choice of using it, I really can not say you left anything out, your attn. to detail was phenomenal!

[fossil brook]

this works fine; I'm working on a mod of Klicky-00 for E34M1 too.

[velvet wing]

thanks!

[dusk pelican]

@velvet wing also quick question, I was going to try out the Kraken duct, after printing I noticed the angle of discharge was much less than the tri-horn which has aggressive down angle, what is the kraken's main use, like why would someone prefer it over another?

[velvet wing]

the tri-horn is meant for the mosquito

[dusk pelican]

which I have

[velvet wing]

the dual horn (and the tri-horn, tbh) is crooked

so the kraken is an attempt to fix that

but since you've got mosquito, stick with trihorn

[dusk pelican]

thats what I am thinking after seeing the Kraken in person, it looks like it would cool the hotend more than the parts lol

[velvet wing]

the issue with mosquito is the heater block gets in the way of the dual horn airflow. the large heater block obstructs airflow. the trihorn is a band-aid for that.

[dusk pelican]

and yet again, if you designed the tri-horn fabulous job it works very well using owl eyes 5015 and PETG only use about 20~30%

[velvet wing]

I did not, it's from EVA3 core

the owl eyes i made, though. those were fun

[dusk pelican]

I have been thinking of having either a way to change the 5015 case so fan opening was on same side or remix for 5020's

[velvet wing]

😬

[dusk pelican]

yeah my thoughts right now

[velvet wing]

what about the pabst fan?

[dusk pelican]

? you mean cpap?

[velvet wing]

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/rear/#single-papst-rlf35-8

[dusk pelican]

yeah cpap, that is over kill, for my needs, heck even dual 5015's are over kill, but I like the look

[velvet wing]

no, the Pabst fan

[dusk pelican]

ill look again

[dusk pelican]

yeah I didn't look, its a condition I have, just ask the wife lol, I will look more into that, it looks good

[velvet wing]

my mom's the same way, lol

no worries

[dusk pelican]

@velvet wing you know I can't find one YT with a Pabst fan on a 3d printer lol

[velvet wing]

it's more common in europe, but it's also an industrial fan

[fossil brook]

@velvet wing do you have any plans to support PCB Klicky? I made my own mod cause i was tired of magnets falling off due to thermal cycles weakening my superglue.

[velvet wing]

not particularly, since it's more expensive and less popular. have you tried the no glue versions of klicky?

[sly bolt]

I am thinking about doing the CPAP thing too

I like the idea of moving most of the cooling off the print head, and apparently it's "stupid" good performance

[dusk pelican]

it is over kill in most cases, but it does work well, I am not overly concerned with tool head weight at the moment, I am enjoying the great prints I am getting off my first CoreXY machine. I am able to now print mechanical parts in ASA without it being enclosed. I am building one for the merc, well should say it is in design atm. I asked for the beta version but have gotten no answer

[sly bolt]

Wait how are you doing ASA with no enclosure? Not just because of the cooling???

[velvet wing]

Dutch hand-approves the beta applications. He's pretty busy IRL, though, so sometimes it can take a spell. How long ago did you apply?

[velvet wing]

It's possible, but requires really hot bed temps and is more prone to warping.

Get your chamber to 70C and you don't need a heated bed, lol

[dusk pelican]

yeah I know he is busy, still waiting on serial number lol

oh since I am getting no real answers in other server room, can I ask you a ? about converting to CAN bus

[velvet wing]

if it's been more than two weeks, you might ask what's up. he's caught up on serials as of yesterday, so you might have gotten lost if that's also outstanding.

[dusk pelican]

I use a server for my Klipper, and my boards are all SKR 3 and SKR 3EZ what besides the EBB36 and cord will I need? do I need to get BigTreeTech U2C V2.1 too, or is that for something else

[dusk pelican]

going to give him a few more days, I re did my YT video, the entire motion system was not in the video lol

[velvet wing]

you need a CAN transceiver on both ends. the EBB36 handles that on the toolhead end. some MCUs provide a transceiver (e.g. the Octopus & Manta). I do not know if the SKR 3 offers CAN functionality, but a search through their docs would answer that for you.

the U2C is only if your MCU does not have a transceiver (or if you don't want to use it)

[dusk pelican]

it has a jumper for USB/CAN but then how do you talk to klipper? or is there pins most likely on the board

[velvet wing]

start here: https://canbus.esoterical.online/ 🙂

it will answer all questions save perhaps wiring

[dusk pelican]

thank you, I have done everything but this lol

[velvet wing]

that guide is a lifesaver

[sly bolt]

@dusk pelican https://www.reddit.com/r/BIGTREETECH/comments/11m78rl/skr_3_ez_canbus_2448vdc_questions/ looks like that first comment may have your answer

[velvet wing]

we need a configuration registry

and associated documentation

"Here's my build config. Here are the guides I found helpful."

[sly bolt]

surprised one doesn't exist on GH

[velvet wing]

A curated gh repo of completed configs would be ace.

Gonna drop this in #1117777631430058064 even though it's not exactly Discord, lol

[stark cipher]

Speaking of that statement inspired me to make that #1117777631430058064 if you want to upvote it: https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1291439290152259725

[velvet wing]

I, too, made a suggestion! https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1291446966856847490

[stark cipher]

I upvoted yours.

Unless Dutch has a Wiki on the new ZeroG site he's been working on. I am not sure he will want to implement it. I think the wiki format is very approprite for your suggestion.

That said if he's not implementing it, we can look at making a wiki outside the zerog site to help with that.

[wide turtle]

has anyone in here ever actually completed a build XD?

[stark cipher]

Twice. 😄

[sly bolt]

I haven't even STARTED mine, though I have begun ordering parts!!!

[fringe zephyr]

never will

got new 5015 fans coming, stepper heatsinks

[stiff venture]

that all makes good sense, thanks. i ended up designing a pair of mounts and am testing it now. it's an openable cable chain and contains only a usb-c cable for ebb36 and a 24V pair. it sags more than i expected, so i may need to do something about that. I'll more than likely simplify this back to an umbilical from the high point in the back once i build the enclosure. here it is, showing range of motion. and screenshots of the adapted parts i used to mount the ends.

any good examples of tidy cabling or encapsulation/shroud for toolhead boardS? i'm working on that now (note the difference between my actual build and my 3dm 🤣). and i'm also working on embedding a nozzlecam in that front shroud.

[velvet wing]

i made a few and found they only work if you include a cooling fan

[stiff venture]

oh yeah i remember yours, i tested one for a little bit when i had a bmg/nema17. i should definitely look at that again to perhaps adapt for the orbiter v2

[stiff venture]

@velvet wing i never stress tested it like you did- which parts did you find needed cooling? tmc driver? mcu? and/or others?

[velvet wing]

the mcu doesn't have a mcu normally. i added one, as well.

i didn't have issues, it just got way hot too fast without cooling, like 20C over ambient.

[stiff venture]

ok i see. you added a heatsink to the mcu and the tmc?

[velvet wing]

yep. they include a heatsink for tmc only

not sure it's as important as the fan, but i found it helpful

[dusk pelican]

@velvet wing made a little change lol
https://photos.app.goo.gl/kGzCaHcvoc7u5dzUA

[velvet wing]

oooh

[silk gate]

hi guys, is there a mount foreE 34M1, about btt eddy usb for the uhf rapido ?

[velvet wing]

not for the UHF, I believe

[silk gate]

sad 😦

[velvet wing]

😕 the eddy mount was made by a third party, but it may be pretty easy to modify. lemme check if I have the source file.

oh hey, there it is https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/main/CAD/abl/abl_eddy.step

ohhh wait, no i did do this one

[velvet wing]

hey, are you willing to do some testing?

I believe this will work. It's been dropped the appropriate distance (7mm)

and the file, of course

[buoyant zinc]

@velvet wing Do you have (or plan for) front mounted top linear rail?

[velvet wing]

won't work without lots of redesign to the x joints

[buoyant zinc]

Assumed so, any plans for this mod?

[velvet wing]

no, none in sight. EVA is built from the ground up for top-mounted. I'd change A LOT if I went front-mounted. new toolhead completely, probably.

[buoyant zinc]

thanks @velvet wing - appreciating your effort to push us up to here!

i am assessing BOM for migration to front facing rail.

[velvet wing]

out of curiosity, do you have a modified x joint already? are you using the stealthburner one?

[buoyant zinc]

I have customized X joint - but still not adjusted for linear rail offset.

[foggy raven]

great work! thank you. I've just finished assembly with my e3d revo voron and using the kraken klicky ducts - Unless the magnets are perfectly flush with the bottom of the kraken ducts they are either super close to the same height has my nozzle or i just have a short revo. is there any way to push the revo body down just a touch or perhaps bring the magnet interface up?

looking at it again it just seems super tight -- I'm not out of action tho, I have a CR touch and am printing the stock horn

thank you again

[velvet wing]

it may be an optical illusion, but double check the heat break on your revo. if it's slightly bent, it can cause the hotend to seem shorter.

[foggy raven]

Cool. Yeah I’ll check. I’ll give the klicky a go when I get the printer commissioned. Thanks

[ivory finch]

@velvet wing Do you have a version of the LDO Orbiter Extruder mount with a toolhead sensor for MMU purposes?

Or a top with one?

[velvet wing]

i gotchu: https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/other/#filament-sensors

they're not ideal, but it's what we have

an inline cutter would be great, but is beyond my ken

[ivory finch]

Thank, just have to add the endstop to it. thank you very much

[ivory finch]

And this may give you ideas with how to incorporate a filament cutter for all hot ends. I will try later when I have the time if you don't get a chance to.
https://www.printables.com/model/647352-filament-cutter-for-eva3-orbiter-rapido

[fringe zephyr]

I was working for a while on a design without servo etc but ended up giving up

[ivory finch]

I may end up going with the EREC for the ERCF, or go back to the Stealth Burner toolhead. Only way I see is a re-design on the gantry carriage to where it put the rails on the side or underside, and mounting a depressor to the top where the rails were.

[fringe zephyr]

I was modding the front piece where the hotend mount attaches

don't have any images here now maybe on this thread

found one of the attempts

[fleet kernel]

Was this cable support for rapido uhf supposed to be removed to make it fit? Maybe i missed something. Also bltouch seems short? Or am i again missing something

Bltouch extended for reference

[wide turtle]

That one should definitely stay
With the zip tie!
You need a high temp zip tie for that

[azure barn]

Your BL touch looks very high, did you print the UHF or standard part?

[fleet kernel]

I printed the uhf one. Its a rapido uhf hotend.

[fleet kernel]

I noticed in the model there’s an immediate collision in thecad with the rapido cable support arm and the “front” part. My fingers hurt after getting my belts through, as they were reused belts

[fleet kernel]

if i end up reprinting this, i made this notch.

[velvet wing]

ooh that's neat. that might help for Dragon UFH users too (i think that's the other one like that)

[fleet kernel]

Also reworked bl mount in this configuration for absolute minimum

[deft monolith]

No idea if someone asked this before but are there 2 PTFE tubes in the toolhead? Or do you combine the length of the hotend and the extruder PTFE tubes into one ptfe tube?

The guide is not clear about this

In the master step file there are 2 ptfe tubes tho... Hmm

[still bluff]

You combine the two values together.

[deft monolith]

So into one tube? gotcha

[hollow garnet]

Does anybody have a modified file for a orbiter 2.0 - ebb 36 pcb Mount, With a taller support rod for the umbilical cable?

The once that I’ve tried only have this very short support rod, which is way to short in my opinion.

[still bluff]

https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1058784239539191838

[hollow garnet]

but as I read it, there is no version with long support rod for my EBB36+Orbiter setup?
Or can I use the one that says orbiter+sht36?

[velvet wing]

I've run into this a bit. I don't have an orbiter version for you, however. what about a hard plastic or metal shim?

[hollow garnet]

hmm not sure I understand your suggestion
Where should I use this hard plastic or metal shim?

[velvet wing]

zip tie it tightly to the mount so that it acts like an extension to the support, then zip tie the umbilical to that

a 50mm piece should be about right, i think

[hollow garnet]

Might be my best Bet, Will try

[hollow garnet]

Printed this little support piece and bolted it directly on to the pcb bracket. Not the prettiest, but far better Than putting all that strain on the cable directly above the connector

[velvet wing]

very nice

[tranquil jasper]

do you have an stl for the support piece?

[hollow garnet]

I do, but bear in mind its a 5 min drawing job.
I just installed 2xm3 heat inserts and drilled corresponding 2x holes in the orbiter bracket

[tranquil jasper]

Lol thanks. Ive been having ebb issues and I think it the umbilical not being properly supported

[dusk pelican]

@velvet wing what the avoid settings for the slicer ,,,
Like the
Radius
Height to rod
height to lid

I figured you might have messured all that if not no biggie just thought I'd ask

[velvet wing]

context? what rod or lid?

[dusk pelican]

its in orca I think is the the x ganty and the top of the tool head but I am guessing

[velvet wing]

🤷‍♂️ sorry, I'm on PS, and I barely know that over Cura. 😆

[dusk pelican]

those are the stock numbers

[velvet wing]

lol, sorry, i'm not much use with this one

[dusk pelican]

lol, its cool, do you know the radius?

around it

[velvet wing]

i do not, sorry. i'm not entirely sure exactly what you're asking, tbh.

[dusk pelican]

no problem I am going to messure later I will post back after just for future ref

thank you

[velvet wing]

yep np

[dusk pelican]

@velvet wing sorry one other quick one, you have 2 two mosiquto hotends in the stl one ends with rw or was that me editing and adding?

[velvet wing]

that's an edit and add, i would assume

[dusk pelican]

thats me not you?

I have done a lot so tend to forget

[velvet wing]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/tree/main/STL/hotend <-- it's not in there?

[dusk pelican]

kk, it was just a quick ? again thank you

[fleet kernel]

Is the e34m1 beacon mount supposed to thread right into the fan duct? No heat sert?

[tranquil jasper]

You use a heatset

[velvet wing]

cuievemen made a version that threads directly in, but most use heatsets

[warped snow]

I think I’m missing something obvious. What is supposed to go in these two indentations for the post extruder filament sensor?

[tranquil jasper]

which top is that?

[azure barn]

The PTFe tube, one that goes down into the hotend, the other that goes up to the extruder

[hollow garnet]

Back to trying to get this thing to actually print

Have been following every step of Ellis 3D print tuning guide, However without any improvement at all

Picture is not very good I suppose, but as i mentioned earlier on here, I simply cannot successfully Tune PA.

I get these large “blobs” of filament, and the test print is useless. Tried playing With extrusion multiplier, all the way Down to 0.7 but almost no improvement.

Tried playing With retraction but still no improvement.

Seems like my rapido 2.0 UHF is pumping way to much filament or something.

Does anybody know what I could be missing?

[velvet wing]

if you had decent prints with PA tuning disabled, I would suggest reviewing your PA test range (AND other settings for the test). Otherwise, it's a different issue.

[fleet kernel]

I wonder if you have conflicting settings in kipper config vs slicer

[velvet wing]

i agree. i feel like this is a test gcode issue, as well.

which is, thankfully, an easy fix

[tranquil jasper]

Is there a kraken fan duct mod that has beacon cable strain relief?

[velvet wing]

no, but there are rear intakes that handle that

cuiviemen's rear inlets do that

i might've done some others. checking.

[tranquil jasper]

I am currently using the dual 5015 fan inlets (owl eyes)

[velvet wing]

computer is being sluggish

[tranquil jasper]

https://tenor.com/view/mando-way-mandalorian-star-wars-this-is-the-way-gif-18467372

[velvet wing]

im glad that flow convinced me to make the owl eyes

oh!

use the free fan mounting hole

on the right side, zip tie

or left, i guess

if that does not work, lmk

[tranquil jasper]

what do you mean by the free fan mounting hole?

the one on the linear top?

[velvet wing]

it's not centered, but it works

[tranquil jasper]

ah ok. Ill give it a shot! Thanks!

[fringe zephyr]

and I reused the concept

[velvet wing]

looks very nice

[proven python]

So, I was thinking of using a bit of loctite on the toolhead, I see that it can damage plastic, so, is that still a problem when considering heat inserts?

Or only when screwing directly into plastic?

[still bluff]

This stuff is safe to use with plastics.

Vibra-TITE 213 VC-3 Threadmate Threadlocker, -65 to 165 Degree F, 5mL Tube, Red https://a.co/d/75VFqSH

[proven python]

oh nice, I'll get that then!

[real crypt]

is there a filament cutter mod for eva3 that works with this

i saw this but i have no idea if it would fit

https://www.printables.com/model/647352-filament-cutter-for-eva3-orbiter-rapido/files

[velvet wing]

i wish. a couple of us have looked into the filament cutter solution. @proven python and @fringe zephyr, amongst others, but i'm not sure if anyone really had a lot of success.

[fringe zephyr]

unfortunately not, I wanted to embed it on the front

[proven python]

Mine is working so far, just haven't gotten around to uploading it yet

[velvet wing]

oooh!

[proven python]

uploaded it here, I'll add assembled pictures in a bit #1309184792083955742 message

[tranquil jasper]

Have you built it yet?

[fringe zephyr]

not yet, will start when I have the rat built which should be complete during next week

don't want to dive into this without a second printer

[tranquil jasper]

Makes sense

I like the idea of screw in terminals. Don't have to worry about microfit crimping 🤣

[fringe zephyr]

that's a THR36

[tranquil jasper]

I know. The power and can terminals are gonna be held down by screwing. I think it makes it easier cuz it means just adding a ferrule to them and popping them in

I've had some issues with my ebb36 disconnecting because of my shitty crimps 😂

[azure barn]

Which beacon/cartographer version works with e34m1?

[velvet wing]

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/bottom/#__tabbed_1_2 The bottom horns module page has that info for Beacon. Unsure about Carto.

[fringe zephyr]

carto has beacon rev D format so if it works with it works with carto

currently running UHF dual with carto and works fine

[azure barn]

Ah thanks, I should’ve checked there first

[hybrid tulip]

@velvet wing and others! Absolutely amazing work on this toolhead. What PCB do you personally use/recommend. Personally I was thinking of running https://a.co/d/eQoHgPK, going to have rapido uhf, bl-touch, creality sprite, and owl eye cooling.

[fleet kernel]

i haven't used can, but judging by a few things, it seems more trouble than theyre worth

[true turtle]

I'm using an ebb36 in USB mode. It was really easy to setup. Haven't been using it long though. I'm also using the orbitool on my merc. I think it's a good choice if you are running an orbiter.

[hybrid tulip]

Do you need external power connectors for that, or does it push it through the USB port?

[still bluff]

https://lab4450.com/blog/upgrade-can-ebb36-to-usb-toolhead/?srsltid=AfmBOooj6DzTFceTbODEXX8M6wjR6vpdbRV49dS72fIRW5ZUFKuh6_6P

[mortal sigil]

You know you can do a usb straight to the pi right

[proven python]

That won't provide the 24v for running the connected stuff, making you have to run wires for 24v anyway, kind of defeating the pointing of using the usb connection instead of can

[mortal sigil]

That's true but You have more stable Connection

[proven python]

can is pretty stable, had trouble at first but was a result of my being unable to crimp well back then

To me the value of usb is the potential for using PD to handle power, and hub capability allowing a future toolhead board to directly connect to beacon and a nozzle camera, allowing everything over a single cable

And similarly simplifying the wiring of the other boards

[velvet wing]

YEEEAH

gimme a toolboard with MicroUSB breakouts (or USB C)

[deft monolith]

I expierenced two times now that plastic cemented itself inside of the hotend and the piece im pulling out with a ridiculous amount of force always looks the same. I figure as im usinf EVA3 i should ask here, or should i ask in another channel what could be the culprit?

[velvet wing]

what hotend and extruder? what material?

[deft monolith]

rapido, orbiter 2, casual pla

[velvet wing]

hmm. that's a pretty standard configuration, so it's probably the hotend or extruder itself

[fleet kernel]

What kind of fan is on the rapido? Is your printer enclosed?

[deft monolith]

its a 40x10 fan which was in the e5+ kit from creality.
its not enclosed sadly

[fleet kernel]

So not a noctua and not enclosed. Weird.

[deft monolith]

the problem started when the orbiter started skipping often and not grabbing the filament correctly
My theory as an absolute amateur is that the ptfe tube is too short

heres a bad picture of the thing i pulled out

[fleet kernel]

Yeah it shouldn’t look like a Lego sword

[wide turtle]

thats the heatbreak
either not fully seated or crushed I'd say

[deft monolith]

but the heatbreak is made out of metal, how can i crush it with plastic?

[wide turtle]

when screwing the heatblock to the heatsink

the metal is extremely thin

that bulge has to come from somewhere where its warm/hot

so either its the connection between nozzle and heaterblock (or nozzle and mze / mze and heaterblock if you use the worse version of an mze)
or between heatbreak and heatsink

[deft monolith]

it came preassembled, is this a warranty issue or?

[wide turtle]

I am not phaetus, I dont know

how did you tighten your nozzle?

[deft monolith]

with a inbus key but not too tight, only so it does not fall off

[wide turtle]

yeah there is your issue

nozzle needs about 1.5-2.5Nm of torque at 285°C
as stated in the manual

nozzle vibrated itself free and thus created a gap

[fringe zephyr]

TIL I have been tightening my rapido at 260

[true turtle]

Can I use an adapter to go from the larger CPAP hose to the 15mm hose?

[velvet wing]

let me get a 22mm hose file for you

it's untested but should work

@true turtle Try this. If it works, please let me know so I can publish it properly. 🙂

[true turtle]

Thank you!

[true turtle]

Is there any advantage to the slim hose other than weight? I'm on a CPAP so I have plenty of the larger stuff available.

[velvet wing]

slim hose is just more common. use larger if you can.

[real crypt]

Trying the other e34m1 cutter

Just need to get the BOM

Also mirrored everything so it cuts on the left.

[velvet wing]

that looks very clean

[velvet wing]

I will be on vacation for a week starting Saturday. I intend to have a go at a BTT Eddy eddy mount then.

[hallow marsh]

great project Jon... printing it right now 🙂

[fair lantern]

Alrighty, following up on that Mosquito hotend mount. Performs wonderfully, so much so that the 40mms3 VF and 10k accels w/ all metal componentry has torn the PA EVA3 universal front apart. So now I'll be CNCing it since that's the last plastic part left:

it's designed to add to the exhaust vent of the mosquito mount for supposedly improved heat extraction, but no cfd so this is effectively coming out of my ass. That said the last time I did it I ended up with a functioning mosquito cooling system, so who knows.

Still trying to figure out how to optimize the belt routing for CNC since I'm only using a 3-axis milo

[velvet wing]

oh sick!

[fair lantern]

reason I didn't do this with the printed part was because the honeycomb actually added to lateral support during movements, so this would've compromised it even further. The EVA3 is great, damn is it picky about materials.

oh btw

while I have you here

[velvet wing]

you'll see no issues with metal. aluminum, i'm guessing?

[fair lantern]

correct

I'm building another printer for even faster speeds.

also based on a merc

any chance you have one in the works for this bby? https://www.fabreeko.com/products/takoto-hotend?srsltid=AfmBOopXtOpDNqhdTHkLAfzy1-w-Ze4bHQc-fxoFoPHgyWXktO-kJ3kr

[fair lantern]

your e34m1 port has been a godsend btw

but yeah if you have somemthing for the takoto hotend in the works, I coulud really use it xD

[velvet wing]

I do not know of one. I've only seen pics of the takoto.

[fair lantern]

p.s. the website still shows the old version of the mosquito mount. The mount itself is holding up beautifully, will likely remain printed.

[fair lantern]

copy, I just might make one then.

[velvet wing]

lmk if you do!

[fair lantern]

will share ofc

yeeee

[velvet wing]

i will be doing updates while i'm on vacation next week. if you're around, please remind me (or open a git issue). i've gotten way behind on page updates.

[fair lantern]

yeah no worries!

i'll probably forget for the next 3 months anyway

let's see how long until I remember

I honestly want the takoto to be better than the mosquito. Two heaters sounds awesome.

but the mosquito is stupid good

the ceramic heat break insulator is held together by kapton tape and it still rocks

[velvet wing]

i'm starting work on some updates, both docs and model stuff.

nothing major, mostly new stuff

[azure barn]

What’s new??

[velvet wing]

good question. a few things got contributed that need to go in the docs. i'll throw together a full list soon.

1. modified Mosquito hotend mount for better airflow
2. BTT Microprobe mount
3. TD6S hotend support

there's more, but i'm behind so i don't have a full list

[velvet wing]

4. Dragon Ace

[hallow marsh]

i made voron 2510 mount if you need/want to include it

[velvet wing]

what's the use case? uses parts available on hand?

[hallow marsh]

i use it so that i have RPM meter in case hotend fan dies on me xD

[velvet wing]

ahhh 3 pin fan? I've thought several times that toolhead cooling fans should be 5V with a tach pin.

[vernal finch]

Glad the mirroring worked out!

Finally getting back to working on the filament cutter, working on something to fit inside of the shroud at the top so it can be used for all hotend mounts

[velvet wing]

that would be fantastic

[vernal finch]

@velvet wing Is there a design guide somewhere if there's any standards for holes/chamfers or anything?

[velvet wing]

they're based on this: https://docs.zerog.one/standard/cad/guidelines

[vernal finch]

Ah thanks

And by have time I mean forced to cause the heat break on my rapido just snapped off while printing, no idea how that happens, so I'm swapping to a different hotened 🥲

[real crypt]

yeah issue still exists with how to hold the blade

but i solved it by snipping some of the plastic off

[vernal finch]

I dont think it's in the BOM now that i think about it but you can use an m3 set screw in the hole in the blade holder

[real crypt]

yeah that interferes

the blade holder will not fit into the main housing

see how i had to cut a portion here

because there is no room for that screw

to fit into the side housing

[vernal finch]

Strange, I guess the one that I have is shorter fits just fine

m3x3 set screw should fit flush

[real crypt]

oh i guess a set screw could probably work

im just using a screw from an old box

it has a head on it.

i didnt think about set screws

[vernal finch]

Ah, that'd do it
Before I found a set screw I just cut off the end of a m3 bolt and cut a slot into it with a Dremel for a flat head. Actually worked pretty well

[real crypt]

maing a variation for a standard m3 screw with a bit more room could be a great option

but i was able to make a mod using tinkercad really easily

just widened the hole a bit

[vernal finch]

Yeah that works, working a whole redesign right now, probably going to have to be forced to use a m3x2 set screw just cause of where it has to fit
Trying to shove everything in this 5.2mm gap

[vernal finch]

Need to get some sleep but here's some work so far

Decided to mirror the probe mounting points to the other side and will be using that to mount the lever instead of having to remove the belt gripper to remove it and allows for anything else in the ecosystem already to be mounted there

Remade the lever and blade holder from scratch to be much thinner so it will fit with about a millimeter of space on either side of the front walls

Made the blade a bit longer so that the set screw doesn't have to go into the body of the front piece so should be able to fit a full size screw but no idea as I haven't done any test prints yet will probably work on it some more tomorrow after I get home

[velvet wing]

this was my choice of location, though i didn't get very far. sweet!

[onyx yacht]

I've been using your cutter from when you first released probably around a year ago. I have over 4400 swaps/cuts. Still works great and going strong. Thanks for making it!

[vernal finch]

Great to hear! It was originally made for the the standard EVA printhead I found on printables
I just modified it for mercury but it's definitely time for a dedicated one for this group

Also as a heads up if you haven't replaced the blade since then I would. I took mine out while messing with something else a while back and there was pretty much a notch the width of the filament where the blade normally was lol

[onyx yacht]

lol i've changed the blade several times. I also had that notch in the blade that the filament wore out

[deft monolith]

how do i do this? Screw in, heat hotend to 265, torque till my hands bleed, done?

[wide turtle]

Torque wrench
1.5nm is not much

[vernal finch]

Test fits went well just need to make the lever mount and I should be done with the print head

[vernal finch]

Just a few small adjustments and it'll be ready for testing
Anyone feel like taking apart their print head?

[fair linden]

I would like to test, however I have to fix a toolhead filament sensor first. Not sure if there exist one for my orbiter 2.5

[vernal finch]

I've got one, I'll see if I can find the link for it

[vernal finch]

Here's the filament sensor, it just goes in between the normal extruder mount and the top, I think I had to use slightly longer extruder mount screws with this one
https://www.printables.com/model/442650-eva-3-toolhead-filament-sensor-mechanical-and-reli

And here's the cutter files if anyone wants to test, only has the basic front in there right now
https://www.printables.com/model/1141394-e34m1-filament-cutterv2

[velvet wing]

ProtoXtruder mount: https://www.printables.com/model/1142327-eva-30-e34m1-protoxtruder-20-mount

[hexed current]

I assume you are running the endstop on the opposite side then?

[vernal finch]

Yes I am, just to remove the complexity of a moving lever actuator arm so to cut the filament it just brings the toolhead over to the right and doesn't need to go anywhere specific

[hexed current]

cool, I think I was smart and printed both options when I was first doing my build. I am going to get this printed and then figure out the code I need to add to it.

[vernal finch]

If your using the Happy Harev2 it has a filamatrix cutter that you can use for cutting. Works pretty well

[warped snow]

This is awesome you are doing this, thank you! I had edited your previous version to work on a revo hot end and I’m probably near 8k cuts. Interested in this design for sure. About time for a toolhead redo

[vernal finch]

Thanks!
Me swapping to a revo is the whole reason I designed this lol
After my second rapido I want something with parts I can actually replace
I think I already found something I need to fix with the blade holder on this one. Likes to get stuck if you push it in too far cause the taper but that should be an easy fix

[vernal finch]

In case anyone printed out some of the parts yet, some changes have been made as I was assembling mine I found a few small issues

[fair lantern]

Takoto in progress

Sits higher than the Mosquito on the topside. Split-mount to emphasize airflow vs. pure fit. The Takoto came w/ SIX mounting locations. I paid for six locations, I'll be using all of them.

To clarify, it's equally flush on the nozzle-side. It's just a taller assembly.

Clears just barely on the bottom. Could use a fillet, but not necessary I'd think.

[fair lantern]

Takoto mount looks so hunky compared to the dragon one:

(leftmost)

[fair lantern]

Completely different monster from the mosquito

Exhaust ports compared. Notice how the heat sink is
a) larger, duh, but also
b) sits right in the middle of the airflow.
I have high hopes. Mosquito mounts are OSR left and original EVA3/E34 right.

Same exact starting cassette: XY position of the mounting screws is identical, they just sit 3mm higher now. Plus the other 4 mounting screws.

[fair lantern]

First prototype print - adjustments have been made for what's in the oven now.

[velvet wing]

that mount looks cool. what's up with your filament? wet?

[cursive obsidian]

I'd say GF/CF ?

[fair lantern]

Thank you! Great question - I print it out of a dry box so I doubt it.

[fair lantern]

Yessir, Sirayatech's ABS Core, it's really nice.

[cursive obsidian]

Cool. Waiting for their PET-CF being available on amazon.de