EVA 3 Mercury Mod

[velvet wing]

that's a really good questino. It's laid out differently.

possibly sacrifice some X space to gain Y

[fringe zephyr]

for.me it's worth it because I can get more area to.move

the pro is tight on the back

[wise karma]

Fair enough. I'll try the one I have

[ivory finch]

@velvet wing put on new stuff, and love it. the owl eyes don't need the honeycomb mesh, as there is more than enough clearance for the intake. love the new ABL mounts, will not break.

[fringe zephyr]

I still need to print my face

@ivory finch its the inverted?

[ivory finch]

?

[fringe zephyr]

zerog logo pn shroud

[ivory finch]

ah, yes, it is. lol

the new stuff I meant new owl eyes, new front, new ABL, and new fan duct.

now to run bed level tests until I have the z-offset dialed in butter smooth. lol

[buoyant zinc]

@velvet wing I'd also like to test new dual_5015_owl_eyes.stl, but reading the thread you made more updates - should I print something more too?

[fringe zephyr]

@buoyant zinc I'd recommend new top

has a cutout for wires to pass easily

[buoyant zinc]

Thanks @fringe zephyr , I'd skip reprinting it whole (for now). But if weight is greatly reduced, I may rethink my previous sentence.

[fringe zephyr]

new top does not gain you much weight saving

but I got a few extra mm on X

that I needed

cutout is minimal weight saving IMO

[buoyant zinc]

I was referring to #1041406799342997544 message

[fringe zephyr]

ah that's the one for beacon

[buoyant zinc]

if multiple parts are trimmed down, it adds

[fringe zephyr]

BTW @velvet wing are you redrawing UHF duct?

[buoyant zinc]

let him rest 😄

[fringe zephyr]

not in a rush to get answer

this way I don't forget to ask and he can reply whenever he has timw

we need to give him those Teslas

he did the owl

[buoyant zinc]

agree - he earned mine

[velvet wing]

it saved 1g!

oops, answered the wrong person

[fringe zephyr]

I'm not giving mine 😛 but I'm currently working on something else he will use

Dutch can too if he feels like it

but that will be later

need to work on the docs

[velvet wing]

hehe, we'll see. It's already super useful.

[buoyant zinc]

spill the beans... can is open

[velvet wing]

hoping to automate a lot of stuff I do on the back end of the documentation.

[buoyant zinc]

@velvet wing do you have a clue what is "something" @fringe zephyr is working on?

[velvet wing]

yep, but it's his baby to discuss, not mine. 😉

[fringe zephyr]

you can disclose

something simple, a dynamic BOM generator

[buoyant zinc]

nice! ❤️

[velvet wing]

it'll let me pull data at-will from a single BOM. partially automate generating new documenation, and allow stuff like a configurator for zipped STLs.

[fringe zephyr]

each part has a different number of HSI, different screws etc depending on what you choose

[velvet wing]

I'm soooo excited

[fringe zephyr]

it's like merc or hydra configurator but also generates adapted BOM

also download "should" be faster

and handles dependencies on parts

[buoyant zinc]

now you got me excited as well.

Versioning? Like if I am updating from older build - can it handle diffs?

[fringe zephyr]

nope but that's a nice idea

[buoyant zinc]

here to help

[velvet wing]

In that case, we were discussing Teslas... 😆

[fringe zephyr]

now I have to implement it :<

[fringe zephyr]

the printed ones or the drivable ones

[velvet wing]

I don't think the owl eyes agreement specified, did it?

[buoyant zinc]

No worries - I'll put some Pupins besides Teslas

[fringe zephyr]

it did not

[velvet wing]

oh dear me

[fringe zephyr]

how much a printed tesla worth? (the paper one)

0.85eur oh dear

[buoyant zinc]

https://efilatelija.posta.rs/en/product/nikola-tesla-i-mihajlo-pupin-nasi-geniji-2/

~10eur for anniversary stamps?

[fringe zephyr]

@velvet wing you tag releases right?

[velvet wing]

omnibox ones, yes. E34M1 kinda got away from me

I...uh...did not plan this one

[buoyant zinc]

@fringe zephyr do you mean to use git diff as a tool to identify updated modules?

[fringe zephyr]

I was not going that further

still thinking how it can be done

[pine jewel]

using semver

if you just put a text file in the release with the version, you could compare all part versions

like have an upload to only get the changed parts

or just a basic form to select the version of each part

diffing is my specialty 😆 I do it all day at work lmao

[buoyant zinc]

Ok, we are spinning the idea...

[pine jewel]

you can go brain dead simple, or overly complex 🤣

[fringe zephyr]

the code will be my pain

[pine jewel]

what are you writing it in, if you open source I can help out

[fringe zephyr]

basic PoC took me 2 or 3 days

Kotlin

[pine jewel]

https://tenor.com/view/eromanga-sensei-anime-gif-10828089

[velvet wing]

rofl

[fringe zephyr]

on top of Quarkus

I couldn't refuse native compilation to host it wherever I want (lambda too if needed)

[pine jewel]

yeah that's fair, I just haven't dabbled in that realm for ages

[fringe zephyr]

php guy?

[pine jewel]

usually stick to web based or Erlang/elixer, go, rust etc

[fringe zephyr]

fuck Go

[pine jewel]

oh yeah tons of PHP lol

that's my main work horse

[fringe zephyr]

Go can go die somewhere far

I was forced to write complex business logic with it, I'd rather cut my wrists than do that again

[pine jewel]

I've mostly stopped thinking about go. I do most in elixir these days

[fringe zephyr]

elixir can't say anything never played around with it, been mostly a Java/Kotlin guy it's where I know most frameworks and where I'm more productive

[pine jewel]

that's the important part, productivity

[fringe zephyr]

it's pretty much what I write daily

hmm let me think about the diffs, not sure how easy it will be at least automatically

also it will become OSS at some point but not polished enough for that

need to pick license as well

usually Apache2 or MIT

[buoyant zinc]

Did you name it?

[fringe zephyr]

yes not final though

[buoyant zinc]

BOMfigurator?

[fringe zephyr]

I'm a simple man, Bundlr because generates stl bundles

SelfBOM would work too

[buoyant zinc]

Bundlr - taken

[fringe zephyr]

name or domain? I don't care about domain

[buoyant zinc]

name / there is an app with that name

[pine jewel]

bomulator 🤣

Bomdler

[buoyant zinc]

bom aid

BOM assist

[pine jewel]

hahaha exactly!!! 😆

[velvet wing]

what about "Bombastic"?

[buoyant zinc]

Name BOMulator- sorted, License MIT - sorted, going for OSS in near future - can survive for now, features - version support, auto builder, dependency management... Release date?

[buoyant zinc]

too explosive

[barren flame]

Bomtastic

[north ingot]

Awesome! Thank you so much for all your contributions! I literally look forward to these updates!

I'm printing:

• belt_grabber.stl
• front_basic.stl
• hotend_rapido_uhf.stl
• rear_inlet_15mm_cpap_beacon.stl
• beacon_bottom_uhf.stl
• abl_cr_touch_uhf.stl
• top_right_endstop.stl

I'll post updates when everything is assembled and working!
still waiting on the beacon to arrive though :)

[north scroll]

@velvet wing (for when you’re awake)could it be that the belt slots in your ‘pre-reworked-for-abl-front’ are about 0.5-1mm too high? I am trying to figure out if I made a mistake in mounting the belts, or if that is the case. since I see the belts tilt very slightly down on my Merc. Pretty sure the carriages and the toothed idler stacks are correct, and that the rail is nice and flush and such… Will try to capture a sphoto when it’s done with the current print.

[velvet wing]

lemme check really quick. Lines up in CAD, but I can make mistakes.

nope. My test printer has very straight belts

Here's the CAD view, as well

[north scroll]

Ok.. Then I'll doublecheck the belt seating, because it is causing the belts to start riding up on those toothed idlers, and that's working its way around the whole system of course. Odd.

Thanks for doublechecking!

[north scroll]

I think I may have the culprit... The top doesn't sit quite flush with the carriage, it looks like. May have gotten damaged somewhere along the way. Going to disassemble and inspect and see if that is indeed the problem....

[velvet wing]

check that your heat set inserts are completely set

i.e. flush with the bottom of the printed Top

[barren flame]

If the screws that go into the mgn carriage don’t go thru the holes in the top part that is sitting up easy and you need to screw them through you will get issues like this. Easy fix is to take it off the mgn carriage and screw it in and then when it’s tight keep going to make the hole bigger. Then it will go on and screw in without binding up on the top part.

[north scroll]

Looks like the problem was there. Not quite with screws, or the carriage itself, but there was some gunk build up from pushing in the heat inserts (the 'crater' if that makes any sense?) that made it uneven on the surface that was supposed to mate with the carriage. Cleaned it up, reassembled, and it's looking better now.

[velvet wing]

ah, that can happen sometimes. glad you figured it out.

[still bluff]

@velvet wing Could you add support for the BD sensor?

GitHub: https://github.com/markniu/Bed_Distance_sensor
VzBoT mount for reference: https://discord.com/channels/829828765512106054/1163237892957671424

[velvet wing]

I can take a look, but no ETAs right now 🙂

[terse trench]

You are correct. Any ducting that is large will not build up enough pressure in the duct to keep the outlet air from being lazy. However, you can control the velocity at the model by the duct distance away from the model. I print ABS mostly, and this is not a problem to use 50% air from CPAP, or more. The air entering the blower is chamber air and the compression of the air get's heated more in the process. So you are effectively creating a boundary of air over the build plate that is more homogeneous to the model. The ducts also en-train air and pull the bed heat. However, it is necessary to use hjgher temp for ABS. For instance, Bumat ABS, which needs more temp that most, prints at 275C for speedy print at 260-265 for a little slower. Polymaker prints at about 255-265. I recently printed a light bulb, in ABS, using 3 walls, at 200-400mms, 20K acceleration, 20SCV, and for 3 days now still holding water. The duct I designed for VZ is a bastard of my design. The path is not ideal for the air due to the location of the toolhead frame. It was something I made to see if it would work with less than ideal duct path. Many just want to try the duct and discard if does not work to their expectations. A lot of work goes into making these and more R&D is needed to tweak different platforms.

[wise karma]

@velvet wing what are we using for a klicky dock with the E34M1? My klicky dock that worked on my 2.4 is significantly too high for the Eva 3. I also think the flat dual 5015s might work better for me.

So there's a 4.55mm gap between the klicky probe and the top of the "hump" that holds the magnets on the fan duct. The magnets on the fan duct are 11.55mm lower. I'm thinking the klicky dock needs to be lowered ~7mm for it to clear....

[still bluff]

@wise karma are you using this one? https://www.printables.com/model/595738-ender-5mercury-one-klicky-probe-dock

[wise karma]

@still bluffnope, im printing it now though. thanks!

[wise karma]

Lol just realized I had to purchase a different microswitch for the x end stop. That'll be here tomorrow. I'm gonna have to reprint some stuff in asa once this is up and running. I'm printing temp parts on my ender 3 out of pla.

[uncut grail]

Thanks for sharing some of the details!

[barren flame]

Been watching the YouTube videos, that printer is nuts! Love the design in it. I’d seen your duct designs and thought they were different but lots of development. Didn’t want to ping you before as I’d seen you’d kinda moved on from being here more.

[wise karma]

Damn how do you get it to look so good. I think my first layer might be too smooshed

[terse trench]

I move around a bit. Always trying new things... Mainly, I love to solve problems and this is a way to keep my brain functional. I am fairly new to 3DP, so I am looking from the outside in.

[still bluff]

@wise karma I use this STL a ton to test for the smoothness of my first layer, https://www.printables.com/model/251587-stress-free-first-layer-calibration-in-less-than-5

[wise karma]

@terse trench I just watched Vez's video about the cpap with the intake being in the camber, it got me thinking if I would have more or less luck printing asa/abs with 10-30% fan on since it's in the heated chamber and not fresh outside air.

[wise karma]

I've seen this one I've never tried it. Added it to my todo list once my printer is operational again

Thanjs

[still bluff]

Make to slice it with the infill direction at 0, not 45.

[terse trench]

ABS needs fan, mostly always. How fast you print determines how much you need. This talk that ABS needs zero cooling is just not accurate. Getting that air hotter is better for sure. Too cold and it will warp the filament from sudden temp changes. the air coming out my ducts is hot when I put hand under.

I do have a door to get ambient, but it still get's heated from compression, just not as much. So for PLA that works also.

IMO the EVA 3 duct is worse than the 2.4 duct. It's just too big and those dividers hurt air flow. The 2.4 is too small and does not have any layer cooling. I used that one for a long time then started to change to something different. I looked into EVA3 and gave up on it. 2 5015 fans on a toolhead or 1 4028 is quite large. Just seemed to make more sense to go with CPAP to get rid of the weight. 4028 does work good but just as loud as CPAP.

[wise karma]

@terse trench I'm gonna stick with the 5015s for the moment, cpap isn't in the near future for my build I think I've spent all I can on this build ATM lol

[terse trench]

It's ok whatever you use. In the end you are limited by cooling, so use what you have! Some are using the Roborock vacuum cleaner blowers. They say they are much cheaper, but I have not looked into them.

[wise karma]

Vacuum cleaner blowers??? Well I think if I stick with the 200-250mm/sec range for PLA my set ups should be ok. I made a couple helmets with my old set up which was eva 2.4 with 1 5015 and the helmets came out great. My asa parts were meh but that was with no cooling at all.

[terse trench]

It also depends a lot on the layer height/nozzle width. If you want to print functional stuff, like a helmet, you can get it done much faster with bigger nozzle. But that will tax cooling quite a bit. most helmets can be post processed for a better look anyway.

[wise karma]

Yea I do a lot of post processing on my helmets. I'm going to start doing them with a .6 nozzle. I think with my set up the dual 5015s will work great. If not I'll have to figure something out lol

[terse trench]

Probably be ok.. It's more of a functional print and not close quarter nozzle printing. So there is time to cool the part.

[velvet wing]

Thanks for responding! I could tell from the get-go that you put an enormous amount of work in these. ❤️

[north scroll]

Absolutely agree. ABS hates cold air, but it likes being cooled (gently) with chamber air, provided it's above 50-ish degrees.

[spark dragon]

heya, do you know if the bottom mount you made for the eva3 is compatible with the rapido 2 hotend? Thanks and awesome work!

[terse trench]

I know this is an E3D mod group, but I hope more ppl will start to use this design. I have came up with a way to make this a bit easier now so I may try and change the EVA 3 to something like it. Not sure on the space available for most builds.. it's a fatty.. This is a new 1 piece design I made today. Thought it would be hard to print, but the printer didn't seem to mind! Really good performance with this duct.

[pine jewel]

… is that mf valves?? 👀👀👀👀

[terse trench]

STraight out of a ZX10

[velvet wing]

it should be, yes!

[velvet wing]

I am 100% in favor of a better duct for EVA 3. Also, AMAZING work.

[terse trench]

Just had to..

[velvet wing]

yellow jacket?

[terse trench]

I wanted black red yellow, but no red.

like the snake

[velvet wing]

ooooh

[terse trench]

black and yellow will have to be it for now

if you are ok in CAD, these are not hard to make

can't believe more are not using them.

[velvet wing]

the principle is pretty straightforward, but knowing how large to make the valves, etc. is more difficult

okay, so the principle is not straightforward to 99% of people, but I have a working knowledge of fluid dynamics 😄

[terse trench]

Not really. You just want a taper to build velocity and make the path easy on the air. Make like motorcycle intake tract

But I don't think this will work with 5015. Maybe.. 4028 for sure and CPAP

[velvet wing]

what about dual 5015?

[terse trench]

at least 2 of them

And hope the air is not too cold

[velvet wing]

fans with high static pressure will count for more than airflow in this application?

[terse trench]

The octoduct works well with 1 5015. But the layer cooling does not cover all over like the valve duct

[terse trench]

I like static pressure over low pressure high volume

you need some pressure to fill the duct

The reason I make them so big is to have a plenum of air to be controlled by the nozzle

[velvet wing]

kind of like a compressor tank?

[terse trench]

The air is not laminar inside

[velvet wing]

sorry, I mean it acts like a pressure reservoir

[terse trench]

It better shapes the air for delivery

a big container/reservoir

[velvet wing]

I kinda wanna play with this concept now, lol. Never thought I'd want to design a duct, but here I am.

[terse trench]

There is one already made for VZ with step file for the lower duct. Just place it and add to the back end.

But stay away from 90° turns

[velvet wing]

yeah, makes sense.

if I have some time in the next month or two, I might take a stab at adapting this

[terse trench]

this one only 4 sketches/lofts

can't make it perfect with the space you have, but better to try to make the turns gentle

[velvet wing]

oh, that is simple

and then the airflow branches from that at the exit...very nice

[terse trench]

it's very big inside. So the air can fill everywhere. the inlet is small, but the velocity is high. That way the duct will deliver air evenly to both sides.

with 5015, you could make 2 separate channels

[velvet wing]

one for each fan?

[terse trench]

yes

It might flow more laminar until it get's turbulent, further down. Depends on the speed of the air and what it hits. But it will naturally go turbulent based on temp and speed.

[velvet wing]

what do you use for your CFD analyses?

[terse trench]

I use AD CFD

The main thing, for me, it to look at the pressure and velocity. And where it goes. But hard to get all the variables right.

So is just a baseline.

Since you use the EVA3, have you used the EVA 2.4?

[velvet wing]

I've modded parts of it for others, but that's it

[terse trench]

Those that use the EVA 3 are seeing better results from the 3.0?

[velvet wing]

in general or with the ducts?

[terse trench]

the EVA 3. This group is using it for Mercury. So I thought it might be good?

Have you seen this video? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFpKKc4nwXM

This was the concept I made the valve duct from

[velvet wing]

it's a little heavier than EVA 2.4, but it's pretty flexible. I've redesigned a lot of it for weight and convenience. The ducts are the weakest part, IMO.

A lot of folks are also using this mod because of the documentation, too. It's just easier to build.

[velvet wing]

I saw a 4 minute version of this, I think

[terse trench]

I had some issues with that duct. At least what I found with regard to dividers inside the duct. Generally, they do not work well. CFD does not like it either.

That video just shows how those 2 side orifices add to cooling in a different way

it's night and day difference with those side ports.

[velvet wing]

yeah, there have been hints it's not ideal, but I don't have the knowledge with CFD software to test that

[terse trench]

Real world testing?

[velvet wing]

not a lot of options to compare against unless I start designing my own ducts 🙂

I wanted to look further into it, but other stuff's been a priority

[terse trench]

it is limited. But it performs better than EVA 2.4

There is not enough air with 1 5015 to further make octo better. I had to size up to 4028

Then it still was not omnidirectional

So I had to try something else.

[velvet wing]

i definitely will find some time to mess with this, just not sure when

[pine jewel]

oh dude ive seen this, p rad

also i will send anyone whom needs a valve one from my old gsxr 😂

[uncut grail]

I moved from the Eva 2.4 tri-horn to Eva 3 dual horn and feel like it was an improvement... Was running dual 5015s for a while, just converted to CPAP

Seems like there's room for improvement, I'm definitely interested in checking out your ducts to compare and contrast!

I'll have to take a closer look, I've got a beacon to account for...

[terse trench]

There is a beacon version on my thingiverse. But no CAD for it. Only the one without flange in CAD.

I have not been handing out CAD, only one model on thingi. In order to develop this duct even more, there needs to be more ppl using it to find weakness.

[uncut grail]

All good, I'll check it out... thanks for pushing things forward, always good to see new ideas and approaches!

[buoyant zinc]

Interesting - Ratrig is breaking away from EVA3 https://docs.ratrig.com/v-core-3-1/ratrig-toolhead-v1-0-upgrade

[fringe zephyr]

yep

[north scroll]

Isn't there a hint somewhere in one of the chats about Merc adopting the RatRig toolhead too? Or was that the Vz toolhead, or is that same thing?! 🤔

[velvet wing]

Vz is being adapted

an aluminum version, i believe

[north scroll]

Ah, ok. Got confuzzled... 😂

[fringe zephyr]

VZ alu

There's also a printed

[dawn sundial]

that was dropped in the vzbot mod section.

[spark dragon]

@velvet wing your beacon_bottom_uhf mod, is it for the low profile beacon?

[velvet wing]

correct, no other styles are meant to work, unfortunately

https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/bottom/#uhf-dual-horns-for-beacon

[north scroll]

Woke up to find this this morning. Left it to print some dessicant containers overnight. No problems at all since the rebuild, haven't swapped nozzles since, new spool of filament.... Blech... Will need to figure out how to salvage the Rapido from that... Very much unhappy.

[fringe zephyr]

ooof

is it just the sock?

[fleet idol]

Looks like the hotend fan gave up on life

Hm, maybe not, the hotend is still in place

[fringe zephyr]

heatsink is not sure about heater etx

those might be in the blob

[fleet idol]

But the blob would end above the heater

Otherwise fresh plastic is just straight up extruded without heating

[velvet wing]

uh oh

I believe it broke the hotend

[fringe zephyr]

all I know is that it looks painful

[velvet wing]

yeah, that torque on the plastic is crazy

[spark dragon]

thanks for confirming, and my bad for not seeing that page

[spark dragon]

if you can get heat to it it might be salvageable... i had a similar mishap a while back on a creality hotend and was able to rescue it. I imagine for your setup if anything is outright damaged it would be the plastics before the metals.

[velvet wing]

hehe, no worries!

[north scroll]

I think one of the bits I was printed let go of the bed, got stuck to the nozzle, and that ended up blocking everything.

But I'd have to look into that humungous brick of plastic to get some level of confirmation... No idea..

[north scroll]

Yeah, but the heater is one of those ceramic things, they tend to be a bit fragile... We'll see.

[spark dragon]

true... have you tried powering the heater to see if it still works? If so then you might get lucky and be able to pull that hunk of plastic off slowly

I forgot about it being a ceramic heater lol

[north scroll]

It heated up to 120c, didn't want to push it higher. So it appears to register temp and heat... That's promising.

[spark dragon]

what material is it?

[north scroll]

Jayo PLA Plus. Never had issues with it before, and it was a fresh roll. Doubting it was a clog in any case.

But at least I don't have to heat things up to 354870265c to melt the plastic 😂

[spark dragon]

haha, true

try bumping the heat up to 150c and see if it begins to melt

pla should start to soften between 150-160

[north scroll]

I already took it off. A bit hard to heat it up the normal way now 🤔 I was pondering putting it in the oven since while it's mounted it's a bit hard to do something with it.

PLA should already go above 70-ish, really. It's not heat-resistant at all. Only the HT-PLA types should resist over 100c worth mentioning

[fringe zephyr]

oven and heat gun

[spark dragon]

yeah, could try baking it or use a heat gun as @fringe zephyr suggests

[north scroll]

Well.. project for the weekend.. *sigh

[fringe zephyr]

I wish there was a good "universal" solvent

[north scroll]

Now printing a hotend mount for two alternative hotends I have lying around so I can at least use my newly serialized Merc.

[north scroll]

That would be SO nice....

[spark dragon]

true but with that clump, you want to melt it... i used the wrong choice of words ><

[north scroll]

Ahhh, ok.. yeah.. truly make it go liquid, you mean

[fringe zephyr]

I have a hotend to clean that has a mix of PLA and PETG

[north scroll]

Or semi-liquid

[spark dragon]

I mean... doesn't acetone break down pla?

[north scroll]

Don't believe so. It works on the ABS family, but not on PLA, I believe.

[spark dragon]

I thought it outright eats away at pla which is why you can't use it for smoothing

[north scroll]

That's interesting.... Worth a try

[fringe zephyr]

ethyl acetate for pla

[north scroll]

Can't do any harm

[spark dragon]

I could be wrong though, it's early lol

[north scroll]

ethyl acetate... euhhh... sounds like one of those things that isn't easy to get.. like MEK (methyl ethyl ketone)

[fringe zephyr]

mek is way worse

[velvet wing]

MEK is much harder to get

[fringe zephyr]

from what I'm reading ethyl acetate can be found in nail polish remover (the acetone free kind)

so should be easier to get

[velvet wing]

it's used as a MEK and acetone substitute

[spark dragon]

and on amazon, apparently lol

[fringe zephyr]

might get myself some too

[velvet wing]

it's still kinda intense. evaporates so fast you can get flash burns.

sunburn flash burns

but still hurts

[spark dragon]

personally, I'd go the heat route first to at least get that huge blob off, then work my way from there

[north scroll]

Interesting....... Oooh.. playing around with chemicals too.. Yay! What could possibly go wrong 🦹

[spark dragon]

science is fun!

[fringe zephyr]

I'd use the chemical way for residue

[north scroll]

Yup... That's the route I am planning so far 😂 Heating..

[velvet wing]

ethyl acetate, MEK, acetone...they're very good for soaking to get the remnants off. but it's not like goo gone where it melts off.

[north scroll]

Escalate from there

[fringe zephyr]

sodium hydroxide apparently works too

[velvet wing]

https://tenor.com/view/stranger-things-fire-flame-gif-14920648

[fringe zephyr]

and that's an easy one to get

[spark dragon]

time to nuke it...

[north scroll]

I'll let you all know sometime this weekend, I hope

[velvet wing]

really? sodium hydroxide...hrm

[spark dragon]

be sure to log the process, preferably via video

[fringe zephyr]

I wonder if those eat PETG too

[velvet wing]

keep the FD on speed dial, too

Experimenting with @terse trench 's concept

this won't be printable, just a proof of concept

I didn't think I'd get this far, tbh. Doing stuff I've never done in Fusion well before.

[fringe zephyr]

we really need an universal solvent but then how do we store it

[velvet wing]

this feels like the unstoppable object and immovable wall question, lol

[north scroll]

Ducttape

Ducktape? Ductape.... whatever.. that stuf!

[velvet wing]

technically both are correct!

[fringe zephyr]

it is, I have read an old story about an alchemist apprentice that claimed he had done an universal solvent, the master immediate question is "how will you store it?"

[fringe zephyr]

one of the engineers best friends along with zip ties

[velvet wing]

It was marketed as both duck tape and duct tape at different times by different manufacturers, so both are considered correct.

[fringe zephyr]

does it quack?

[spark dragon]

not gonna lie, the mishap sounds like the perfect reason to buy a flamethrower

[velvet wing]

lol, the duck does

[fringe zephyr]

I wonder if the "not a flamethrower" is still sold

[spark dragon]

100mph tape is better ><

[fringe zephyr]

say what you will, but selling a flamethrower with that name to mock regulations that say you can't sell a flamethrower is genius

[velvet wing]

OT: my cat's secretly been moving a monitor I did not realize was on a mobile mount. I thought I've been losing my mind.

[spark dragon]

mischevious!

@velvet wing question for ya... of the original eva3 for rapido and lgx (big), how many of the parts are usable with your remix? I may or may not have printed out a full set before realizing it's not compatible with mercury one lol

[velvet wing]

the hotend mount and extruder mount are both compatible

pretty much everything else is modified in some way, lol

[spark dragon]

gotcha, thanks

[barren flame]

On the solvent talk, could try paint strippers or could try DOT 3 brake fluid if you have exhausted every other possibility and will be looking to throw it out? MEK was/is very popular for paint stripping and is still easy to get in some places. It’s also called butanone.

[velvet wing]

we may have different legal obstacles based on local laws. MEK substitute is all you can find here for paint stripping now.

The can says "MEK" and in tiny letters "substitute" 😆

[barren flame]

I would also round the front as a different one to help push the air out of the corner and into the ducts. Looking up car intake manifold design I feel would help here a little too.

[velvet wing]

there does need to be a fat fillet on the front cap

I whipped this up just to see if I could do it, though. I'll start from scratch later and incorporate that.

[barren flame]

I know why I can’t buy my old model glue, it was MEK based and GW wanted to stop poisoning people lol

[north scroll]

Ah good. Alternative names are always useful. I am dutch, living in Luxembourg. And that is a weird little country: has its own language, but the going language tends to be french. But you can also get buy in German, and in most cases in english. And portuguese, of all things. Anyway: things I know by one name are not necessarily easy to find here under that name. Might need to know their french alternative, or german, or official, or brandname, or whatever... Sometimes it's a pain in the backside..

[barren flame]

Your duct above would print. I’ve printed crazier stuff.

[velvet wing]

agreed. I think it's on the right track, too

[north scroll]

Looks badass!

[barren flame]

The 200L drum is back order 🙁

[north scroll]

Could totally drop the whole hotend in there. Fish it out an hour later or so....

[barren flame]

Lol after an hour it might be “what hotend?” I feel it would do something to the anodising they do too. It’s not like what I’m use to.

[north scroll]

My dad used to work in a factory where he could get his hands on that stuff every now and again. So he'd bring home a half a liter bottle or so. Used it a lot when I was a teenager (so, back in the 80s) to clean up anything metal.

@velvet wing That alternative hotend I am looking at... The mini sb adapter I got, and the top of the hotend have these little ovals to line things up. Checking the E34M1 model for the mosquito, it doesn't appear to have those. Is that by design?

The holes appear to be in the right place and such, so I am confident it would physically mount, but not sure if those ovals really add anything.

[fringe zephyr]

my bet is compatibility with the NF crazy

nope also has the ovals

I think they don't add much anyway

[north scroll]

I'll be able to tell later today.... Got the hotend mount printing now on my lilvoron, alongside a dragon one, in case there's further trouble in paradise....

But I suspect it's probably a 'too much fuss for too little gain'

[velvet wing]

Interesting. The Mosquito model is based on EVA 3 stock, so I honestly can't say for sure.

[north scroll]

I don't immediately expect any issues, holes appear to align and such. Just noticed those two thingies missing.

[north scroll]

Ok.. Doesn't fit through the hole... hole in my printed version is about 13x25mm, and the heatsink is 14.1x25, so a bit too narrow. Heatsink does step in a bit higher up, which might fit, but no way to get it into the hole.

[velvet wing]

ah crap. Some clones are bigger than normal Mosquitos, I think

I have a friend with one like that

[velvet wing]

Try this: https://www.printables.com/model/316658-eva-30-nf-crazy-hotend

[north scroll]

Easy enough to fix myself, of course.

Ah.... that actually looks more like what I have than the mosquito, in terms of heatblock

Okido.. went through the slicer, and onto my lilvoron.. Let's see. Thanks for the pointer!

[terse trench]

Nice, don't forget the side ports.. those are the ones doing good work also.

[velvet wing]

yes! I did not forget. I saw enough mistakes I made along the way that I didn't finish out the design. I'm going to start from scratch with a little better planning now. 🙂

had to do it wrong once to figure out how to do it a little better

[terse trench]

So save you grief... if you set up the model in cad, offset the right distance from the center plane, you can mirror one side to the other. Then you only need make one side (if your not already)

[velvet wing]

hehe, I definitely did that!

[terse trench]

I worked all day on my new one yesterday. What a nightmare.

[velvet wing]

oh wow. Yours are quite a bit more complex.

[terse trench]

not really. But so much more air. Did you see the video I posted last night?

[velvet wing]

yes! that's where I got the exhaust port shape from

I'm not quite good enough at this (understatement) to build in an interior "ramp" for the air

[terse trench]

use lofts and a spline. Not hard

[velvet wing]

oh, duh. extra set of lofts, then thicken the surface.

huh

thanks!

[terse trench]

all lofts

[velvet wing]

awesome. here we go...

[fringe zephyr]

Is the guide curve 3D sketch?

[terse trench]

yes

[velvet wing]

Nice, I'll check those out. Thanks!

[pine jewel]

this was awesome man thanks

[velvet wing]

After 40 my mouth was open

[wise karma]

That's wild!

[fleet idol]

Hm, Knomi 2 EVA3 cover when? 😂

[velvet wing]

I considered making one for the first KNOMI, but never bought one. They're cute, though.

[fleet idol]

Right? 😅 I still think it's kinda useless extra weight, but at the same time, the cute-factor is high

[velvet wing]

I thought about a desktop stand to show your print progress, so it looks like a little digital clock or something.

[north scroll]

@velvet wing that alternate hotend mount fit, it's currently being put through its paces on my merc and seems to be working just fine so far.

You rock :)

[velvet wing]

Awesome! Thanks!

[uncut grail]

Do you have the printables link for the duct? I can't seem to find it... Thanks!

[velvet wing]

It's not compatible with E34M1 😕 Different project.

[uncut grail]

Yep, still wanted to check it out

[velvet wing]

ah, my bad

[uncut grail]

☺️

[terse trench]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6132041

[uncut grail]

Thank you! I was using the wrong search term! 🙂 I looked in your youtube video descriptions, may be worth dropping one in there ever now and again to point folks in the right direction. Thanks again!

[terse trench]

I am laying low. On the down-low. Creeping by. Cloaked.

[uncut grail]

well, it's a project, buut seems doable - @velvet wing i'd rather work on something supportable vs my one-off hackey - I'll poke at it a bit more and see if I can come up with something reasonable

I know I'm already in the weeds

well - that was a total and instantaneous misrepresentation of reality!

the bottom plate/bolts interfere with the ducts in a way that is probably less than simple

yeah - OK - i stop now ☮️

[terse trench]

Damn.. HUUUUggeee

[uncut grail]

Spice must flow

I haven't really looked at other toolhead set-ups in a minute

[terse trench]

I know on EVA type toolheads there is not much room below and the back end has, basically, a 90° to turn the air into the lower duct. Then you have to contend with the 2020 extrusion above. However, the VZ toolhead is almost the same and it fits. But maybe because Goliath is low and more room. Not sure.

[uncut grail]

Yes, totaly agree

[terse trench]

In that case, the duct needs to go wide.. and that.. can be a problem with hitting stuff..Sigh.

Top down is the way really

[uncut grail]

I think it's workable... Constraints!

And use case.. sometimes you need specific types of cooling..

Thats more of a question

I guess it all comes down to the model and features.... Dictate your cooling needs

[terse trench]

it's a bit radical. Maybe a smaller one can be made for X speed

[uncut grail]

Radical, yes! \

I think about the model specific cooling needs

[velvet wing]

I've tried to go wide, but I run into issues with folks who have an ABL arm instead of Klicky or Beacon

[fleet idol]

This is what they decided on with breakneck for the archetype toolhead

[velvet wing]

I'd like to be able to implement near-straight vertical duct, but the Merc belt path makes that difficult

[fleet idol]

What about if you integrate it into the main body? Left and right of the hotend

You'd have to offset the belt grabbers a bit too, as well as the abl mount

Or in front, just around the hotend fan

Could possibly even mount on the same screws as the hotend fan

[velvet wing]

I think I'd need to make some pretty significant changes that would invalidate a lot of the other parts of EVA, though

[fleet idol]

I don't know enough about the various parts, especially on the front side of things

You could drop the ducts from the backplate, making it totally flat, gaining a few mm of Y travel, and if the ducts go in the front along the fan side, it might not eat any XY travel

It would for sure clash with the front cover

You would need to create some custom beacon mount though, as you would have to drop the ducts from the bottom

[velvet wing]

I'd probably want to mount the linear rail on front if that happened, tbh

It'd be a more steathburner-ish shape with the weight up front

[fleet idol]

Something like this

Though I can already see a nightmare with the cpap tube and my reverse bowden line 😂

I suppose this is why breakneck is designed the way it is

[velvet wing]

toolheads are so compact that the various bits really add a lot of limitation in where you can put what

hmm

[fleet idol]

That just translates to "time to get creative" 😛

[fringe zephyr]

I have been feeling tempted to design one from scratch for myself

[velvet wing]

how many folks are running the new front (v0.5)? any issues?

[fringe zephyr]

not yet

[terse trench]

REvision 2. Mo powa

[terse trench]

4:55, seems to be working. Under extrusiuon a little, temp a little high, but seems good for this time.

[fringe zephyr]

looks nice

[barren flame]

@velvet wing Xol cpap

https://github.com/Armchair-Engineering/Xol-Toolhead/tree/main/STL/Experimental/XolPAP

[velvet wing]

Unrelated note: new assembly videos are almost ready for the updated docs

[barren flame]

Can confirm straight down ducts of the mantis pushes some air!! Can’t wait to have dirtybird toolhead on, straight down but with 4512 deltas

[pine jewel]

ha, it’s monday, that means my prototype xol cnc carriage will be here

[pine jewel]

or it was delivered ytd and i wasnt paying attention 😆

[velvet wing]

well, I've run out excuses not to move the Release 2 files to main now that the docs are updated...

😄

[fringe zephyr]

configurator?

[velvet wing]

oh, heck no, just the info about Release 2

I'm planning on working on that next week on vacation

[fringe zephyr]

just trying to help you get mor excuses

[velvet wing]

too late, I've pushed the updates and merged in the latest STLs

[wise karma]

@velvet wing question

forPTFE i am adding 15mm of PTFE tube the dragon uhf requires to the 17.95mm of PTFE that the orbiter 2 requires correct? total of 32.95mm

[fleet idol]

How do you cut it that precise? I just stuck it into the rapido, then tried to push it up into the extruder until it wouldn't go up any further, then I just pull it out again, clip off a tiny piece, and try again, until it fit.

[velvet wing]

yeah, add the two

[velvet wing]

me too, but it lets you pre-measure pretty close without the guesswork

[wise karma]

@fleet idol I mark it with calipers.

I ended up needing about .25 more than listed

[fringe zephyr]

https://www.printables.com/model/647352-filament-cutter-for-eva3-orbiter-rapido shiny

[velvet wing]

interesting concept

[fleet idol]

Ah it cuts filament by pushing the toolhead into the side

[fringe zephyr]

yep

it would be damn useful to me

but without servo if possible (not sure if I can lose space

[dawn sundial]

would there be a way to implement your idea on the archetype tool head? they do the top down cpap.

[terse trench]

Yes, I am sure, but that design is not mine. Ask them to consider it?

[dawn sundial]

understandable.

[cursive obsidian]

@velvet wing feel free to mod it to E34M1 https://www.printables.com/model/648710-galileo-2-sa-extruder-for-eva3 (this one uses EVA3 heatsets). It's funny to see Voron logo on EVA 🤪 .

[onyx yacht]

I'm running a Dragon UHF hotend with the dual horn for Beacon and single 5015 Fan for beacon. The air blowning 12-15mm in front of the nozzle and nothing is hitting the nozzle or directly below it. Any suggestions on how to correct this?

[wise karma]

@velvet wing do you by any chance have a taller x endstop trigger?

[velvet wing]

how much taller do you need?

and would the STEP file help?

[wise karma]

Maybe 5mm?

[velvet wing]

Can you clarify a little? Do you mean the horns are projecting too far out?

[onyx yacht]

No. I think the direction the horns point the air is too far out. Maybe if they curved in a few more degrees it would fix it

[velvet wing]

I would agree that it's not ideal, though it should still do an adequate job. These horns are taken from EVA 3 stock and the duct itself is unmodified. There's an open issue with EVA itself about the duct flow direction, but so far the EVA devs haven't acknowledged it.

OTOH, we've been semi-idly working on concepts to design a new duct lately, ideally with much higher flow and better direction.

For now, I'd run some print tests and see how it turns out.

You're also the first user of the Dragon UHF hotend mount that I've heard from, so it may be blocking more air than expected.

[onyx yacht]

I printed a non-beacon tri-horn before I ordered the Beacon. I put that one on and it works much better. The air is directed better. I won't be receiving the Beacon for a bit so I'll use that

thats for your input! I appreciate it

[velvet wing]

thanks for letting me know about the issue! Hopefully we'll work out some new ducts here soon.

[wise karma]

You're awesome, thank you

[velvet wing]

huh.

I'm re-reading the issue that's open for EVA 3 about the ducts: https://github.com/EVA-3D/eva-main/issues/117

And it mentions that adding more airflow resolves the issue. I suspect this is because most airflow misses, so getting adequate airflow to the nozzle requires good cooling, and good airflow requires insane cooling.

[cursive obsidian]

I have a feeling they do just expect people get powerful airflow solution and don't care for the rest. At RatRig Discord EVA forums are mainly used with 4028 SanyoDenki's.

[velvet wing]

the lack of a dev response from June makes me feel the same

welp. back to duct design school for me.

[velvet wing]

Dunno if this is gonna work or just lol at me.

[north scroll]

Sounds like the good old american way of solving things: mooooooarrrrrr powerrrrrr 😇 😉 😂

[velvet wing]

hopefully more, and directional, too

[pine jewel]

https://tenor.com/view/mo-powa-babeh-james-pumphrey-donut-media-more-power-baby-give-it-more-power-gif-18630619

[velvet wing]

the awkwardly smiling faces in the background will give me nightmares 😆

[pine jewel]

😂

[onyx yacht]

Interesting. Hard to get more airflow without reducing Y travel

[onyx yacht]

I'll be happy to try that design!

[fringe zephyr]

it would be interesting to play around with a design that has the fans above in the front

[onyx yacht]

On that fan mount, is it possible to add a second fan behind it in the same orientation? That way it would take less space than both fans rotated 90 degrees?

[fringe zephyr]

aka just ignore the current impl

[fringe zephyr]

there are 2 variants

[onyx yacht]

I know. The one with 2 fans, both fans are rotated 90 degrees than that design and they stick out a bunch behind

[fringe zephyr]

nope 2 dual fan designs

the "owl eyes"

[velvet wing]

the owl eyes one isn't in the docs yet. hasn't left the testing repo.

[fringe zephyr]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/testing/STL/rear/dual_5015_owl_eyes.stl

but it exists!

and It's awesome

[onyx yacht]

Read my mind!

[barren flame]

Have you actually seen this clip and how he says that lol it will add to the nightmare.

[barren flame]

How’s the g2 extruder going? Was tempted to goto it.

[barren flame]

You fitted this yet? My mind is playing around with a few ideas for a aluminium toolhead…. I need to start learning the cnc at work me thinks.

[pine jewel]

I did assemble, but am unable to throw it on my machine just yet. still in the middle of building, waiting on a few things to arrive from mainland next week 😎

I think the other 9 betas have all run and given necessary feedback already tho and he's going to make some small tweaks and start the production run after thxg

I was also looking into cnc for this reason, have heard great things about the printnc mini

am probably going to start sourcing it quietly so my gf doesn't notice another robot around the house lol

[velvet wing]

nope, just saw the gif 😆

[pine jewel]

https://youtu.be/3U9yP8JU3_o?si=RRXpo4Fh10cpeUzF&t=245

I don't think that timestamp worked. starts at like 2:45

[velvet wing]

ROLL OUT UP AND DOWN HEADLIGHTS

😆

[velvet wing]

FYI I'll be on vacation until 11/26. I will probably drop in but am unsure how solid my internet access will be.

[fleet idol]

Outrageous

[barren flame]

Have a good holiday!!!

[wise karma]

This was perfect thanks. For some reason the original one was t triggering the endstop each time and it caused a bunch of crashing.

[wise karma]

Have fun!

[cursive obsidian]

Just installed it (along with new tolboard) . So far so good. Printed one PCCF part with it, works as expected.
I guess next will be some PETG print with cranked temps to make it shiny to see that pesky VFAs. Jared (creator) said it can print TPU so that is something I could try too eventually.

[wise karma]

Side note if anyone needs the x endstop microswitches I have extras shoot me a pm.

(US lol)

[buoyant zinc]

Not in US but as part of community, let me say: I appreciate your generosity!

[wise karma]

Only doing what others have done for me! Trying to help where I can

[buoyant zinc]

That is the reason we are here. Thanks once more!

[spark dragon]

@velvet wing any idea why your files won't open in prusa slicer? This is the error I see for all of them.

Oh, i think I see why... right click > save link as apparently results in a corrupted file. Gotta visit the link and download using the github dl button

[fleet idol]

When 1 duct just doesn't cut it 😂

[velvet wing]

There will be directed airflow, dammit! 😛

[fringe zephyr]

looks like overkill

I love it

[velvet wing]

klicky

[fringe zephyr]

now make it UHF and I'll print the damn thing

[velvet wing]

https://tenor.com/view/roflcopter-gif-5561075

this took me all morning, lol. give me a minute 🤣

[fringe zephyr]

"come on it's easy, you just need to make it lower"

[velvet wing]

hehe, hehe 😭

[fringe zephyr]

if it was not clear enough I'm just kidding

[fleet idol]

And don't forget beacon

😂

[velvet wing]

What's Beacon 😉

so, uh, who's crazy enough to print this? I don't have a printer at the beach.

[fringe zephyr]

I can print UHF as soon as I get 50 of those things I sell done

[velvet wing]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/commit/4a304818b0a65f3925d56ade0d6429af91551854

[fleet idol]

I think it should be called C'thulu duct 😆

[cursive obsidian]

https://beacon3d.com/product/beacon-h/ single PCB oh well....

[onyx yacht]

Love it! Going to print it now!

ETA 55 minutes

Thank you so much for creating this. It looks awesome

[onyx yacht]

Did you end up using a cable chain? If so, how did you mount the chain to your tool head?

[velvet wing]

@onyx yacht are you using a toolhead PCB or running the wires directly from your MCU?

[onyx yacht]

Directly from the MCU

would love to can but it's a bit over my head. Maybe in the future

[velvet wing]

are you committed to doing cable chain, or still deciding?

[onyx yacht]

I'm not committed

right now i'm running the wires around a PTFE tube and its less than ideal

[velvet wing]

ahem... paging @pine jewel, paging @pine jewel ...

😆

[onyx yacht]

uh oh haha

[velvet wing]

so tae does professional wiring stuff. we've been tossing some ideas back and forth about concentric twisting for toolhead cable bundles (he knows the smrt terms for this, not me). the result, done correctly, is a very flexible cable.

I've made some decent umbilicals with 18+ wire counts, but none of them approach what he does

[onyx yacht]

But how is the bundle run to the toolhead?

[velvet wing]

Ah! One sec

Along with the PTFE tube. Goes from the rear wire anchor to the green grabby thing

[onyx yacht]

Thats what i have now. It works 100%. However, it takes a bunch of space above the printer and I want to enclose it in the future. Which is what got me thinking cable chain

[velvet wing]

cable chain comes with its own issues, depending on where you attach it

and how

[fleet idol]

Chain is heavy and slows down your movements a lot

[onyx yacht]

damn, ok

[velvet wing]

mounted like the first pic, you have issues at the back of the build plate with snagging. I still use cable chain on one of my builds, but it looks like the second pic.

In the second pic it's anchored above and behind the rear of the build area

[onyx yacht]

hmmm ok

[wide turtle]

I was planning on putting a hook which can turn in the top of my enclosure and attaching the cables, ptfe and cpap to that

[velvet wing]

I've considered that, or even passing the wires through the center of a top hatch, perhaps

[wide turtle]

passing them through the top requires more isolation
hook is easier imo

[velvet wing]

I don't think there's ever a single, perfect solution for this problem

[onyx yacht]

back to the drawing board haha

there never is haha

i appreciate the insight! thanks again

[velvet wing]

sure thing!

[wide turtle]

when I do the wire hook, I can post it, if anyone wants it
Will take some time though as I first have to complete the merc and then design a custom enclosure

[onyx yacht]

I have the new duct printed. Yesterday i was running a job and couldn't install it. Once i get home from work today I'm going to put it on first thing. Looks even better once its printed. My guess, it will work like a charm

[velvet wing]

I'm excited to see how it works

[north scroll]

Overkill is severely underrated :D

Gorgeous work, @velvet wing

[velvet wing]

thanks! still nervous to see how it plays out.

[wise karma]

I did not. I'll probably use the chan on a different printer. It's not really needed with just the can cable.

[north scroll]

I also find the cable chain to look.. euhh.. goofy if you just hook it up to the head and the back. Not 'neat and structured' like in a voron, tbh

[velvet wing]

Agreed, and giving the cable chain support like in a Voron would require moving the linear rail.

And that messes with the belt path...

[onyx yacht]

Bambu Labs did a good job routing the chain on the X1C. It being enclosed also helps haha

[onyx yacht]

I'm away from family for Thanksgiving so I have a long weekend to mess around and try to figure something out

[cursive obsidian]

The (PG7-9) Cable glands recently popping around mounts are pretty useful IMO. Have one on Micron gantry and another on Merc1 EBB36 toolhead and the cables are well locked in position, allowing them to flex in 360 directions yet still guarding them against damage.
And for saginess of the long ones you could throw in side frame mounted keyback if you have an enclosure to mount it on.

[velvet wing]

those cable glands look like they are amazing

[cursive obsidian]

But mainly I have really good feeling that they protect the cable well. I didn't have the same assuredness when I did zip tied them against something since the cable still did slide while being tied.

[velvet wing]

dude, that is awesome. I love it.

WANT

[cursive obsidian]

FYI If you want to model your own mounts, this will become handy https://grumpytechie.net/2017/11/05/custom-thread-definitions-in-autodesk-fusion-360-pg-conduit-threads/

[onyx yacht]

That's awesome

[velvet wing]

nice!

[lyric bloom]

Very tempting 😄

[pine jewel]

@velvet wing you know what you gotta do next for the Kraken ducts 🤣

[north scroll]

I have a few laying around, just haven't gotten around to installing a set on my Merc yet. It's one of those items on my 'to-do' list. But just don't want to have to tear down the toolhead again, just for the sake of a relatively minor update.

[velvet wing]

increasing internal pressure would be nice, but I'm glad I got one design done. I'll see how this goes then keep iterating, as necessary.

[wise karma]

@velvet wing thanks for making the 5mm taller block, turns out I was using the wrong one lol.

Anyways. I have a question for you. Would it be way too much to ask for for a zip tie mount on the fan part? I also might go back to the solo 5015, just because the duel one crashes into the stepper mount when I home Y. And the duel mount clashes with the EBB36 mount. I also tried yours but I don't remember if it worked or not lol

Oof that 3rd picture is bad lol. I had to notch one of the fans as well as the "horn" of the fan mount

[onyx yacht]

@velvet wing I installed the new duct. Way more airflow and directed perfectly

The base it a bit long and didn't fit properly

But that should be an easy fix I may be able to adjust and reprint

[velvet wing]

uh oh, too long is a problem. I'll see what's up there

[velvet wing]

What version of the mount are you working with?

[wise karma]

which mount? lol sorry

[velvet wing]

the dual rear inlet, sorry

[wise karma]

um let me see if i can find it on your github

is there a newer version?

[velvet wing]

I dunno. It's got a version number printed on there somewhere 🙂

[wise karma]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/main/STL/rear/dual_5015_inlet.stl

[velvet wing]

oh dear

there is not a version on there

I am dumb

[wise karma]

i thought about going to this one, unless theres an updated version of the duel

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/main/STL/rear/rear_inlet_single_5015.stl

[velvet wing]

Unless you want to try the owl eyes dual intake, I'd go to the single.

[wise karma]

i'll try the owl eye one.

do you think this will clear with the owl eye?

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/main/STL/pcb/mounts/pcb36_mount.stl

[velvet wing]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/testing/STL/rear/dual_5015_owl_eyes.stl

[onyx yacht]

owl eye is awesome. I'm running and love it

[wise karma]

i cant get the ebb to clear with the duel mount i have now

[velvet wing]

that dual intake is pretty awkward

[wise karma]

lol yes it is

[onyx yacht]

John, aren't you on vacation? As much as I appreciate you helping us so much. Shouldn't you be relaxing??!!

The new duct is 2.85mm long. my limited CAD ability should be able to fix that and I'll send it in here

[velvet wing]

I'm quiiiiite relaxed 😉

ooh, that is too long

[velvet wing]

Check the github. It's fixed. 🙂

[onyx yacht]

damn that was fast. I'm still struggling to open it in fusion and you already fixed it

thank you!

waiting on github to refresh. It still showing yesterday's models. I'll print it out and install as soon as i can

[velvet wing]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/tree/testing/STL/bottom

You may be looking at the commit from yesterday.

[onyx yacht]

duh! Thank you! again

[spark dragon]

@velvet wing will the dual 5015 rear inlet work with the beacon? Looks like it should, is it just a cable routing difference?

[onyx yacht]

new version fits great. Going to run a couple test prints

[onyx yacht]

cooling has improved a lot. There's a ton more air moving. So much so that the air hits your face if you are in front of the print head. I assume it's coming from the ducts in the back but there is still good airflow coming from the sides.

Again, thanks so much John. This is a pretty amazing community that you went out of your way to design this without asking anything in return

[velvet wing]

it won't work with regular hotend and beacon. the probe's connector sticks too far out.

Visual illustration:

[cursive obsidian]

Won't this have same issue like trihorn? So that the middle paths being short and least constrained will get most of the airflow (out)? Maybe make them smaller compared to side ones @velvet wing ?

Regardles I really like the cthulu look .

[velvet wing]

Yes! I considered that! The interior, short-path holes are the smallest, followed by the middle ones. The outer paths that swing wide are the largest.

They aren't going to be perfectly balanced without a CFD test, but at least it's some compensation.

[cursive obsidian]

Oh yea that intake is already narrower. I completely forgot that and I did mess with it when doing beacon horns pfff.

You really want me to redo my B(e)acon back to sherlock connector 😅 . I didn't want to mess with my current pigtail installment but this is tempting.

[velvet wing]

heh, you can still leave it pigtailed. the Y offset is the same as your beacon duct design

What intake are you using?

[cursive obsidian]

Still single 5015. That's another thing that I could redo. I still have unused EBM-Papst RLF 35-8/14 N I meant using it on EVA.

[velvet wing]

Oooh, that'd be nice

[velvet wing]

Working on UHF kraken ducts now

[fringe zephyr]

with klicky please

[velvet wing]

trying to figure that bit out now

[fringe zephyr]

can't you make it like the other UHF one? just extend

(same height would be perfect, drop in replacement)

[velvet wing]

going to for lighter weight and less blocky

[velvet wing]

@fringe zephyr https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/tree/testing/STL/bottom

[fringe zephyr]

as soon as my new unklicky sexbolt is printed

@velvet wing llike this?

[fringe zephyr]

printing

will install later as I need to assemble it along with new sexbolt

[fringe zephyr]

printed will assemble later

[onyx yacht]

I put the UHF bolt or bushing on my hotend. Printed the UHF kraken duct. Worked like a charm!

How does that extra bolt/bushing make the hotend UHF? Does it just allow more time to melt the filament which increases the flow rate?

[fringe zephyr]

longer melt path

so yeah more time to melt

or the same as HF at higher speeds

faster you print less time the filament has to melt

that's why overshooting temperature is something as well

[cursive obsidian]

That Papst RLF35 is really getting in the way.
I wonder if this screw will be doable:

[velvet wing]

😬

That's frustrating. No idea if it'll work, but frustrating to work around.

[cursive obsidian]

The obvious way will be to have heatsets in the rear part and screw the assembly from the front. But I am trying this approach so that no other parts needs to change. Will se in 20min.

[cursive obsidian]

Ok worked just fine.

[cursive obsidian]

@velvet wing Printed Kraken Beacon and I have some feedback: The surface for mounting beacon probe onto the horns should have as much contact as possible. There is risk for beacon PCB to skew forwards/backwards and to have as much contact surface will help flatten it accordingly. When I did the first parts I utilized the whole length for those two mount points.

[velvet wing]

understood. will fix.

@cursive obsidian does the probe contact the inner two ducts? it's closer in cad than I realized.

[fringe zephyr]

still need to assemble and install mine

[velvet wing]

can't wait to print mine. but first I will snuggle my cats.

[cursive obsidian]

Oh I haven't mounted it yet. I'll try to validate it in CAD.

[cursive obsidian]

No kraken step file(s) in testing branch? 😢

[velvet wing]

not yet, since it's still in progress

but this doesn't look right

[cursive obsidian]

Yea that would collide.

[fervent grove]

Awesome project/mod! I'm currently gearing up to do my own Mercury conversion of my Ender 5 S1 and I want to use the Eva 3 toolhead.
Since I want to use the stock extruder for now I'll be making my own mount. Any tips or things to look out for when I'm designing the extruder mount?

[velvet wing]

this is the stock Ender 5 extruder?

[fervent grove]

stock S1, its the sprite pro extruder pretty much

dual gear direct drive 🙂

[velvet wing]

oh nice! did not realize the S1 had a new extruder.

I'd grab the BMG drive mount and modify that. give me a minute to upload it, since I apparently overlooked adding that CAD file

[fervent grove]

Yeah its been quite good so far for me on my stock machine. No skipping steps and I havent been able to push it to its limit yet, seems like the nozzle is the limiting factor right now for it.

Awesome that will be great, that was my plan initially. Taking the BMG mount and modifying it. 😄

This is the extruder in question, minus that plate you see at the bottom. Quite compact.

[velvet wing]

https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/tree/main/CAD/drive

Good luck 🙂

[fervent grove]

Awesome thanks!

[cursive obsidian]

This loks mighty

[velvet wing]

that fan is gonna be fun!

this looks better, but still need to add mounting area

@cursive obsidian Hopefully this will do it 🙂

Files are up on the repo

[cursive obsidian]

I am firing up Micron 🔥 .

[velvet wing]

noice

[cursive obsidian]

For those smaller prints it is easier to just do heat soak little bro approx 17min compared to big boy 40min.

[velvet wing]

40 min for big boy makes me feel better about mine taking awhile to heat up

kinda wanna get a micron or v0.2

[cursive obsidian]

400x400mm bed takes its sweet time.

[velvet wing]

oh good heavens, okay

[cursive obsidian]

Yea Micron is nice but expensive. I'd say v0 is very good choice.

[fleet idol]

Yeah I let my 350 bed soak for half an hour before I start anything on my V2.4 too

[velvet wing]

West3D has v0 kits for 550 right now!

Can't afford, but want

[cursive obsidian]

The v0 will be here... That is staple for small printers.

[wide turtle]

I was quite tempted to get a vminion with the current sales
On the other hand why do I need 4 printers XD

[fleet idol]

In case anything breaks on the previous ones 😂

I know a guy who had two and a half of his 3 printers down, the last one was sorta kinda working but it had an issue too 😛

So he had to get creative to get his print 😋

[wide turtle]

That is actually the reason I am upgrading my ender to Merc
Technically hydra and my current modified kinematic are plenty
But the kinematic is huge and I want to enclose the printer in case something on the trident breaks

[wide turtle]

I learned to never work on 2 printers at the same time the hard way
Well our neighbors son has a printer too
But he can only print Pla/petg
Which would be fine to get the printer running again in case something breaks but I'd rather use abs/ASA XD

[cursive obsidian]

I remeber going for hydra from Merc1. I tripple checked that I have all the parts (and some doubled) before I tear it down. But still scared that I did miss something.

With +1 printer not an issue. So comforting to know that you just have the backup you'll print any faulty/parts you missed.

[wide turtle]

Definitely
The klicky on our trident broke
I was really happy I had a few unklicky parts laying around I printed as backups
Otherwise I would have been screwed

[fringe zephyr]

having just one I had instances where I needed to reassemble old way only to print more parts

[wide turtle]

That's annoying

[fringe zephyr]

or I find myself printing spares

[wide turtle]

Fortunately we always had 2 or more printers XD

[fringe zephyr]

I considered a vminion but abs asa will be an issue without a box

so I figured I'd just make a smaller merc

for twice the money

[wide turtle]

But only one abs/ASA printer rn
But enclosing mine will take time as I have to design a completely custom enclosure

[velvet wing]

2 enclosed printers is my minimum moving forward

[cursive obsidian]

I did print my share of ASA parts unenclosed with just draft shield and cranking the bed temp.

[fringe zephyr]

I just made a huge MDF box

[cursive obsidian]

....aaand eventually reprinting them all when enclosed.

Or hobo style, just throw trashbag around it 😆 .

[wide turtle]

I guess technically I could put our vyper or my ender in the tent we have
But both of them have Pla parts
Vyper has a full Pla toolhead, ender as well, though with the Merc upgrade, I'll print the toolhead out of ASA
eBay is full Pla except for the corners though

And when I do the upgrade I really don't want to put my drivers in an enclosure
Cause 1.7A is gonna be toasty

[cursive obsidian]

I did print most of my Merc1 parts with just two PETG ducts. Doable you just have to reprint them when they melt 😅 .

[velvet wing]

Need an electronics case for your Vyper or Ender?

[wide turtle]

My ender has the ZeroG ebay
And vyper is running fine
Why?

[fleet idol]

I found that printers like to schedule their unscheduled maintenance together 😛

[velvet wing]

Wondered if this would be handy: #1144990245729865840

Really useful when you enclose a printer if you need to get the electronics out

[wide turtle]

I plan on putting a normal enclosure on my ender so the ebay will not be enclosed
And the vyper is staying open air
But thanks for the tip :)

[fringe zephyr]

shameless promo 😛

[fervent grove]

limited knowledge of CAD and Fusion360 but I think this might work.

[velvet wing]

Here's an updated master file for you to check for fit: https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/main/CAD/EVA 3 Master V2 v26.step

mostly you'll want to check that the mount does not bump into the X endstop

[spark dragon]

@velvet wing my beancon arrives today, so will be building your mod for my hotend setup. Doesn't look like I'll run into any issues, but will report back if I do

great work on these parts!

[velvet wing]

if you're going with the kraken duct, note that I updated the regular one this morning

[spark dragon]

do you think there's a way to make the dual 5015 work with beacon?

[velvet wing]

not unless you go UHF, tbh. It's single 5015 or CPAP at the moment for regular hotends

[spark dragon]

I plan to go UHF, actually... is there hope?

[velvet wing]

UHF Rapido?

[spark dragon]

yep

[velvet wing]

one sec

[spark dragon]

which one is that?

[velvet wing]

it's not in the docs yet. it's this. 😄

[spark dragon]

ahhh

[velvet wing]

it's still in testing, but seems good so far. no one's printed the UHF + Beacon yet, however.

[spark dragon]

here's everything I've printed so far:

the endstop dupes because I was looking at the machine wrong haha

[velvet wing]

beacon_bottom.stl is unnecessary with beacon_bottom_uhf.stl, as is the screw_cap. Ditto with hotend_rapido, you just need the _uhf file.

glad you're able to use the PCB mount. I love that thing.

[spark dragon]

right, I printed both so I'd have the option for either

[velvet wing]

nice, makes sense

they're pretty similar, don't mix them up 😆 the difference is less than 1mm in height

[spark dragon]

I probably will at least once lol

[velvet wing]

hehe, you'll probably get by okay, though

[spark dragon]

the ducts were a bit hard to print for me, but everything else came out great

[velvet wing]

yeah, the ducts are a torture test for ABS/ASA printing. I bump the fan a little on it.

[spark dragon]

had to do some manual work with the soldering iron the shape them up

[velvet wing]

ooof

[spark dragon]

they're fine now, just those overhangs

[velvet wing]

the stock duct isn't perfect. It blows a lot of air, but not all in the right place, along with the crazy overhangs. I made kraken hoping to fix some of that.

[spark dragon]

I may try to reprint once I get the K1 more dialed in, but they came out pretty good either way

[velvet wing]

hey, that's great print quality otherwise!

🤘

[spark dragon]

indeed

I'm ngl, the K1 is quite a capable machine

and a steal for $350

made printing these parts so much easier since I still haven't found a good top cover solution for my merc build

hoping to get access to the beta for merc so I can disappear that problem

[velvet wing]

applying is pretty easy, AIUI

[spark dragon]

yep, just waiting. I think my initial application bugged out because the bot sent me a DM with a bunch of XML code lol

[buoyant zinc]

In search of top cover as well - if you came across any good ones, please share.

[spark dragon]

well, my current build is on an E5S1 frame, which makes everything trickier

[north scroll]

Looks like you just need to turn down the nozzle temp a smidge, or speed. Or fans up a bit.

[spark dragon]

probably fans, I had them completely disabled

[north scroll]

Yeah, its purely a bit of cosmetic help that appears to be needed.

[spark dragon]

@velvet wing finishing up my E34M1 build and wanted to ask if you wouldn't mind making a mod of the e5plus_x_axis_stop_block.stl, extending the hole side by 7.5mm (so the block portion sits further away from the mounting hole)? I tried doing it myself but am unable to keep the overall shape and profile you made, so mine looks rather funky, lol. No rush, of course, just whenever you have a few moments to spare. Thanks in advance if you're able!

[spark dragon]

Here's my bastardized version for reference (my 3d skills are terrible)

[spark dragon]

I guess it doesn't look completely terrible, after all, lol

[velvet wing]

Once you're out that far, you can use the moveable stop block for that, too 🙂

[spark dragon]

yeah, I had those before, but after printing both the left-handed and integrated top pieces, I ended up remixing the integrated one, taking 4.5mm off the overhang; and even with those moveable blocks, I was losing too much off that side of my X. After that, I wanted it to look as uniform as possible

that side is just a failsafe as it were, incase something goes wrong somewhere, to hopefully help prevent my rail from going off that edge

in other news, not sure if you've been able to print and test the clearances yourself, but the beacon sits eerily close to the bed during printing (+-1mm) with the rapido uhf beacon bottom duct. Also not sure if this is intended by the beacon creators as the docs are a bit light, so figured I'd report back

video coming shortly. You'll know better than I if it's intended to sit this close to the bed during printing

[spark dragon]

@velvet wing here's the test print video. Let me know what you think on that beacon spacing when you can. Thanks!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IbkuZ8WJkAg

[still bluff]

@spark dragon @velvet wing Found this clearance reference guide on the Annex Engineering Discord

[spark dragon]

nice, thanks!

might need to shave 1mm or so off the beacon mounting block

[onyx yacht]

Did anybody else get the email from Beacon about Rev H? I decide to hold out for the newest rev

[still bluff]

Yep, it was discounted too.

[onyx yacht]

Hopefully the mounting isn't changed....

[still bluff]

Looks just about the same to me.

[velvet wing]

Thanks. It's too low by 0.4mm, then, possibly

[velvet wing]

your video looks correct, actually. If you were too low the screws would hit the bed. I checked the Z offset for the beacon to be sure, and it's right at 2.6mm. I can still raise it a little, but not much more than 0.2-0.4mm.

[spark dragon]

right, I was looking at the distance of the screws, not the beacon.

I haven't run into any print issues so far, so will leave it alone for now. thanks man

[velvet wing]

thanks for checking in!

[cursive obsidian]

@velvet wing https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/pull/25

[cursive obsidian]

So for the new Beacon H model:
Right now the original beacon is situated so the connector sits inside the rear profile "butt" (pardon my french). UHF version will be ok - the long horns gives us space.
Mount point aren't changed but profile of whole (now single) PCB is shorter and with it the sherlock connector. In current mounts it will be closer to the horns IMO and will likely end somewhere in between horns and rear.
I am waiting for Beacon H CAD to be released so I can see if the whole Beacon H can be moved slightly backwards to the rear. Both Rear and Horns parts will need to change (and y offset).

[velvet wing]

I'll work up the docs. Thanks!

[velvet wing]

Working on a 0.4 of the regular Kraken ducts. The interior ducts are too straight (right red line is more ideal), and the second set of ducts hook too sharply at the end (left red line). The right image is what I've got right now to fix it.

[velvet wing]

Update. Much better curvature.

[onyx yacht]

looks good!

[onyx yacht]

Maybe I'm not understanding. On the low profile version, doesn't the connector go straight out the back parrallel to the build plate? Shouldn't we be able to route the cable behind the fan(s) with no issue?

[velvet wing]

the rear inlet has to be modified to accept the connector

it's not the bottom that's the issue, it's the rear inlet

[onyx yacht]

ahh i see

[velvet wing]

Docs should be caught up, including @cursive obsidian's extruder and inlets. Also added the tops with built-in microswitches (there are now two versions).

I feel like the Kraken ducts are...quieter?

[cursive obsidian]

Just a nitpick, maybe better to link the manufacturer https://www.ebmpapst.com/at/en/products/centrifugal-fans/p/RLF35814N.html instead of US/EU based reseller.

[velvet wing]

Good point, will do

[velvet wing]

Also merged in the Owl Eyes inlet to main and added it to the docs.

[velvet wing]

I made GCODE for four benchies at a time, each with the bow pointing in a different direction. Then I printed it with the both the stock horns (trihorns on this one, actually) and the kraken ducts. I did not think to crank up the speed to exaggerate the difference in performance, unfortunately, so the acceleration and speed were not particularly high (2500-5000 accel, 67.5-125mm/s print speed).

Still, there's effectively no difference in the results. Where the regular ducts showed imperfections, so did the Kraken ducts. In a few places, I felt like those imperfections were not as bad, particularly the overhangs (which is most of what I looked at).

Also, the Kraken is lighter by 4.5g

[fleet idol]

Now make it go faster 😆

[velvet wing]

Gotta upgrade another printer for that 😬

unless you just want a 10k benchy, lol

okay, one stupid fast benchy, coming up

[velvet wing]

I can't even fast benchy right, lol

Cura has all these safeguard settings...minimum layer time, what?! 😆

[velvet wing]

Came in about 20min

didn't clock it exactly

[wide turtle]

you have a bit of a benchy in your underextrusion XD

[fringe zephyr]

speaking of speed benchy time to load my orange pla to try one

[fringe zephyr]

didn't install the kraken yet but

[cursive obsidian]

Looks mighty that Kraken horns on EVA3.0. Along with RLF35 it seems at first glance more powerful than my until now used SanAceB52.

[velvet wing]

PG7 on the toolhead, too? damn

[cursive obsidian]

Of course, love that thing. No more not so tightly secured cabling.

[velvet wing]

I want to get them when I can. they look great!

Cable support is a pet peeve of mine

[fringe zephyr]

ugh just remembered that I need to replace the rapido mount for uhf

[velvet wing]

It's surprisingly painless to replace a hotend on EVA3

[fringe zephyr]

I know it is but I need to print it

[velvet wing]

okay, that's fair

[fringe zephyr]

I'll get better cooling though currently ducts sit a little high

might improve the benchy

also @velvet wing did the kraken duct change?

[velvet wing]

yes, I altered the flow direction for regular and UHF over the weekend

[fringe zephyr]

still have first UHF version printed but not installed

😭

[velvet wing]

What looks good in CAD does not print the same 😆

[cursive obsidian]

@velvet wing I am planing to add those securing USB cable points to the 5015 single too. Now that I have validated they are working as intended. Ok?

[fringe zephyr]

also my toolhead is slowly becoming purple

[velvet wing]

I ❤️ them.

[cursive obsidian]

Yea the cabling management for Beacon is not ideal.

[velvet wing]

If you want I can bring the bodies into the existing Fusion file and do it that way?

[cursive obsidian]

I'll redo the step files and make PR. I'd rather leave that master .step/.f3d file to you.

[velvet wing]

Sweet, works for me.

[cursive obsidian]

And I likely add those sacrificial supports. I like how they help with overhangs sagginess of entry channel for fan. That RLF35 is nice pres fit.

[velvet wing]

It's got quite the long inlet

[cursive obsidian]

Oh yea you're right. The 5015 has that longer inlet. That RLF35 didn't and the bridging didn't end up well without them.

Ok then maybe not needed for 5015 😅 .

[velvet wing]

Oof

[fervent grove]

Quickly put together to see if it all fits

[velvet wing]

looks sharp

[fervent grove]

Thanks, great documentation by the way! Pretty much went together without any hassle. Hopefully my drive mount works.

Quality of my print is not the best, open air polylite ABS and speed too high.

[velvet wing]

if it works, it works

[fervent grove]

It weighs 103 grams, empty toolhead without the spring washers but all inserts in place.

[velvet wing]

That's down a bit, I think. Some of the recent revisions cut down weight some.

[fervent grove]

Great! I made sure I had the latest versions of the pieces I printed the other day.

Might also be the Eva 3 Bambulab hotend mount I've used.

[velvet wing]

Can you let me know how that works? I looked at it and wasn't sure how well it would turn out, but that was quite a long while ago.

If it does work, I'll add it to the docs. It was new/untested when I saw it before.

[fervent grove]

For sure I'll keep you up to date with it!
I've yet to receive the hotend, ordered it last friday on AliExpress.

I'll also keep you up to date on my extruder mount and upload it. Just in case someone wants to reuse theirs when they want to upgrade their 5S1 to Merc1 and Eva3 (probably not 😄)

[velvet wing]

It's good work

[compact compass]

Would there be work to get a mount done for the Bambulabs hotend?

[fervent grove]

There is already 1 or 2 for the Eva 3, they seem to work with this mod. I have yet to confirm it since I have not received the hotend yet.

[velvet wing]

https://www.printables.com/model/393230-eva-3-bambu-x1-hotend-adapter This one looks the most well-done of the three I've seen.

[cursive obsidian]

It uses 3030 fan 😒 .

[fervent grove]

Step files are there so it would be easy to make it for a 40mm fan

[wide turtle]

Technically smaller fans are better as they have smaller hubs

[velvet wing]

~20% reduced airflow that's going more where you want it, so it's a tradeoff.

[sick bone]

Will you be adding a volcano/uhf klicky version?

[velvet wing]

Mos def: https://github.com/jon-harper/E34M1/blob/testing/STL/bottom/kraken_uhf_klicky.stl

[sick bone]

Thank you is this the 6 horn version or the one that looks like tentacles the stl preview on github isnt working on my phone for some reason

[velvet wing]

er...I think those are the same thing? 🙂 Let me grab a CAD pic.

github came up faster

er...that's not print orientation, though

[sick bone]

great thank you

[stable viper]

I saw the Dragon UHF mount for the EVA 3; is it still compatible with 2.4 or competely different?

Still trying to navigate through all the different toolhead configurations before I put everything together and find something that might ahve worked better lol

[velvet wing]

EVA 3 and 2.4 are not compatible, sorry

[stable viper]

no worries! just wanted to make sure first :>>

I'll be here pretty frequently in the next few days lol make sure I get this all set up properly!

[velvet wing]

Right on! Have you gone through the Tour Guide on the docs site yet?

[stable viper]

yep! I didn't see any offical set up for the UHF dragon but I'm sure it won't be hard to piece together from this thread :>> The only thing I'm wondering, is it a drop in replacement for the 2.4 or are there other thigns you need to pritn to use it on the merc?

I'm still in the process probably should have asked all this before cutting the belts 😭

[velvet wing]

UHF Dragon is in there 😉 https://jon-harper.github.io/E34M1/modules/hotend/#phaetus-dragon-uhf

[stable viper]

oh shit I thought you mean the EVA docs page this is cool hehehe

[velvet wing]

It totally replaces 2.4, yes

[stable viper]

big bet >:> I'll read through this after work (using my bambu here to print parts 🤐)

[velvet wing]

everything in there is up to date with the exception that there's a duct we're testing that's pretty cool (pun intended).

[stable viper]

lmaooo okie bet bet

stupid question are all the print orientations as is?

[velvet wing]

yep. anything that's not is a mistake 🙂

[stable viper]

big bet!

the page looks super well put together btw, very nice work!

[velvet wing]

thanks!

[stable viper]

and using the same print settings as merc?

[velvet wing]

huh. I need to make a note of that. Not sure it's in the docs anywhere!

[stable viper]

I didn't see anything on the modual reference, I haven't read through all of it though

[velvet wing]

nah, I wrote the stuff. It's not in there. 😆

no wonder people keep asking...

[stable viper]

oh lmaoooo

[fringe zephyr]

@velvet wing installing rapido UHF mount but I don't see any difference from the one I had

what differs?

[velvet wing]

I think it's about 0.5mm, lol

[fringe zephyr]

😅

I'm going back to the old one ☹️

UHF duct still stays high (old kraken not sure)

[velvet wing]

the bottom of the duct should be about 2mm above the nozzle

[fringe zephyr]

old uhf was higher I believe

btw did you keep klicky position?

[velvet wing]

x and y offset, yes. Z offset, no.

[fringe zephyr]

xy is the one I care most

z hopefully my variable height dock handles

if higher definitely

[velvet wing]

it may be a little higher, but I don't recall exactly

[fringe zephyr]

ok then it will fit

ty

[fringe zephyr]

looks high

[velvet wing]

hmmm, try it?

[fringe zephyr]

will do, old UHF was high too

[misty flame]

I'm planning my Mercury One.1 build, but I have a Revo Voron on the way. Does that mean that E34M1 is the best plan for me?

[misty flame]

And, if so, how do I decide which top module I need to have printed? It looks like the main decision is to have the endstop on the left or right; is there a correct decision? Any ramifications I won't have thought of yet?

[stark cipher]

Howdy! While choosing what parts to print for my E34M1, I got interested by this option: pcb42_mount_cable_chain.stl since I've ordered a CAN pcb kit from BTT. I'm looking for recommendations on a Chain belt to print to go along with it if anyone can recommend something. Thanks,

[fringe zephyr]

still need to test but has ~2mm clearance from the bed could be less

might be a little better if they blew a little more into the bed

[velvet wing]

I'm not sure what other toolheads support the Revo Voron, but I know E34M1 does. 🙂

[velvet wing]

Left or right and whether or not you want a way to attach your umbilical. If you've got a toolhead PCB, a lot of those have mounts with a cable guide instead.

[velvet wing]

FYI, those mounts are for NEMA17 steppers and won't work if you're using an extruder with NEMA14 (round) steppers.

TBH, not a lot of folks are running cable chain anymore, particularly given how light the CAN umbilical is.

[misty flame]

It looks like the top module in the default Mercury build has the end stop on the right, so (in the theory that they made that decision for a reason) that's the route I'll go.

[velvet wing]

important question: do you know where your Y endstop will be?

front or rear?

[misty flame]

Since the instructions stop way before that point, no

[velvet wing]

lol, fair

the idea is, if you home Y to the front, home X to the left. If you home Y to the rear, home X to the right.