Hydra Sex Bolt Mod

[jovial moat]

printer.cfg settings

This is a placeholder, I will add my settings at a later time with some tips on setting it up. For now refer to the github.

https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron Mods/Voron 2/2.4/Voron2.4_SexBolt_ZEndstop

Compatibility

Works with the 5 plus using a 377x370 Hydra bed

5 pro, does not work with the 275x275 Hydra bed, there is not enough room to travel past the back edge of the bed.

5 pro, should work with 255x255 and smaller beds, But not tested yet.

My klicky mod is recommended to go along with this.

BOM

2x m3 heatset inserts, same spec as standard merc heatset inserts.
2x m3x22 SHCS
1x Hartk Sexbolt Z Endstop
1x Endstop wiring harness

[empty ridge]

5 pro with 255 bed works fine. If you tilt the bed too much it will touch it, but realistically you will never do that.

[mortal summit]

Does it matter what of the 3 hydra bed holders you replace for this?

[empty ridge]

I think this one is only for the rear, i doubt the front ones would fit

[burnt musk]

Hey, I was wondering where I could find the klicky probe mod that you mentioned, Im thinking of putting that on my Mercury 1.1

[mortal summit]

https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1010991671426682951

[hybrid pagoda]

I'm trying to understand how the Tri-Horn mounted Klicky probe would work with this holder.

When mounting the SexBolt to the rear holder, then klicky can touch, but I can't see how the nozzle could ever go that far back to touch it. And if it is mounted to one of the front holders, then the nozzle can touch it, but I can't see how the TriHorn mounted klicky could ever reach it.

[jovial moat]

it does not work with the 275 bed on the pro

[hybrid pagoda]

Sure, I do get that. But I can't see how it would work even with the smaller bed.

[jovial moat]

on the 5 pro you would also need longer 330mm rails

it works best on the 5 plus right now, no changes needed.

[empty ridge]

does it work with AB or SB? Maybe there the nozzle is too far to the front. 5 pro 255 bed EVA setup works nice for me.

[jovial moat]

It's been tried, doesn't work with those either on the 5 pro

[unique wren]

The it the stock z endstop config or something extra?

[jovial moat]

?

[unique wren]

How to configure the sexbolt in klipper is what I wanted to ask lol

[jovial moat]

https://github.com/protoloft/klipper_z_calibration

[mortal summit]

https://github.com/LoganFraser/VoronMods/tree/main/KlickySetup this helped me an insane amount when I set it up👌

[unique wren]

Soo I’ve noticed that my endstop starts to sag on one side and it’s the mini tank itself

[timid lance]

@jovial moat is this part of the BOM correct? 2x m3x22 SHCS - 22mm seems like a bit of an odd size and I'm having trouble finding it so just wanted to confirm

[jovial moat]

pretty sure it is... I had them on hand

[brave mantle]

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[unique wren]

Cat? 🤣

[brave mantle]

ha. guess so.

[errant flume]

@jovial moat can you provide pics on how and where it fits?

[jovial moat]

I'll try to remember to take some tonight

[errant flume]

I can ping you, just don't know your timezone 😅

[jovial moat]

In 6 hours I should have time

[errant flume]

@jovial moat ping?

[errant flume]

thank you very much

[dire crow]

have you tried the sexbolt tank on your 5 pro? I have 300 mm rails, but I was thinking to sacrifice some z travel to have the sexbolt instead (The downside is that the bed probing at the corners would be further back, possibly making the tilt less accurate)

[jovial moat]

I need to order parts to try it

I did install the proper tank in the back, so installing it will be easy

I know it has the space, with 330 rails

[dire crow]

I'll have 330mm rail eventually...

[stark sonnet]

@jovial moat Any chance for a CAD file? I bought this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004822732672.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.42.243e1802s8nWdb and there are a few differences that I need to account for 😦

[arctic pollen]

@jovial moat
link changed...
new one: https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron Mods/Voron 2-Trident/2.4/Voron2.4_SexBolt_ZEndstop

[arctic pollen]

does any one know why i get this error?

the problem is created config

i tried copying it directly from prolof and also from prolof to notepad ++ and then into config

[arctic pollen]

can someone help me with this pls?

now i comented out all sample comands and got it to run... bun when he goes to pick up the probe he runs the dock macro... tried switching them, but didnt help at all :/

[errant flume]

I can later as I will configure mine as soon as I get my new dock printed

not sure if today though

[arctic pollen]

yeah found the solution

you need to specify switches location in klicky variables

[errant flume]

what are the variables

@arctic pollen

[arctic pollen]

in klicky_variables.cfg you have the specify location of z endstop

[jovial moat]

Yup, you do need to update that config file. It's pretty clear what to change when you read the klicky variables config file.

[errant flume]

something very wrong here

@jovial moat any ideas? using auto-z

relative_reference_index <- testing this out

[errant flume]

and its fixed

[errant flume]

yet another question though, is it possible to use klicky for homing and the endstop only for z offset calculation?

probing te nozzle on the endstop requires a very clean nozzle and sometimes it's tricky

[fallen flower]

Fab sexbolt for Voron work on Mercury one?

[jovial moat]

That's what I used

[dire crow]

I just printed this, is that ok? (don’t mind the ugly bottom, I need to retune)

[jovial moat]

Did it warp?

I would be worried about it affecting repeatedly if the board settled over time

[dire crow]

no no no warping, just random clogging on my rapido

it seems warp because I haven’t screwed in the pcb yet

I was more worried about the sexbolt model. there is one with a thinner pin they sell preassembled and this one with the big flat top. are both compatible with the mod?

[errant flume]

I have the one with that flat top works well

(no hydra though, just stock bed with it attached)

[azure quarry]

Sorry I know you posted this message a very long time ago. I'm building my Merc with an E5+ and wasn't sure how do I know which of the 3 mounts to use to attach a sexbolt?

[dire crow]

the rear one

[jovial moat]

This is for hydra

[azure quarry]

Sorry I meant which of the three sexbolt mounts. There's a 12x3, 12x4, and 12x5.

[jovial moat]

replaces on eo fthe mini tanks

same one you would have picked for your mini tanks

[azure quarry]

Ok I will take a look.

[dire crow]

btw, I am quite impressed with the mod, I was expecting to fiddle the right config for days, but it all just worked. The only issue I had so far is the sexbolt might screw in and stop clicking well, So I’m planning to use some threadlocker to prevent it

[jovial moat]

it does need threadlocker

the directions even list that step

[bleak fern]

hey guys, trying to set this up for my merc, have my klicky all working and have just installed my sexbolt and want to setup but struggling to find where I set the sexbolt position and some guidance for the settings for the probe pins in the config etc, would someone have a working config they could send me so I could have a reference as I work through it?\

[rough knoll]

how much does this improve z offset repeatability? interested in trying it to go along with klicky mod

or for a z endstop with beacon

[fallen flower]

I use with klicky once everything is adjusted and setup correctly. My Z offset is pretty consistent. I run probe accuracy with klicky and Sexbolt to make sure switches are consistent and sure enough they are.

[rough knoll]

https://www.fabreeko.com/products/sexbolt-z-endstop?_pos=1&_psq=sexbolt&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=42613775958271 does this work for this mod?

[fallen flower]

Yes I’m using that one

[rough knoll]

going to try it out for more consistent z offset

[errant flume]

@jovial moat what is the difference between the 3 files?

[jovial moat]

magnet size, same as your default mini tank sizes

[errant flume]

ah thanks

[azure quarry]

Would someone be able to share their Klipper settings for the sexbolt? I've got a 377x370 bed.

[rough knoll]

i need them too'

[real shuttle]

You have info on that brush, I am searching for something that will work with the E5+.

[jovial moat]

not happy with that setup, havent worked on it in months.

[viscid parcel]

So from a working Klicky setup (255x255 E5Pro) I've done thw following:

• Install klipper_z_calibration
• set klicky-variables
  variable_z_endstop_x: 98
  variable_z_endstop_y: 236
• Add [z_calibration] in printer.cfg:
  nozzle_xy_position: 102, 263
  switch_xy_offsets: 98, 236
  switch_offset: 0.4
  start_gcode: Attach_Probe
  end_gcode: Dock_Probe
  max_deviation: 2.5
• Modified [stepper_z]:
  endstop_pin: PG10
  position_endstop: 1

When I try to Home All it does not pick up klicky. Should I be using the nozzle coordinates to click sexbolt? I assumed it picked up klicky and used the switch body but maybe that was a terrible assumption

[azure quarry]

Home doesn't use the klicky. It just touches the nozzle to your sexbolt.

I can't look at my configs right now. But if you've set your variables correctly, you can try attach_probe and dock_probe to make sure your dock position is set correctly.

And then you can do a probe_calibrate. That will attach the probe, touch the nozzle to the sexbolt, touch the klicky body to the sexbolt, and then touch the klicky to the bed location that you specified.

But you have to make sure that you configure the probe body location correctly or you can damage something. You also need to setup an initial switch_offset in klicky variables. There's a good video on that but I can't look for it now.

[viscid parcel]

Dock location is good. Klicky was previously working

[azure quarry]

It was working when you did a home?

[viscid parcel]

Location will be based on bed_mesh relative_reference_index, right?

[viscid parcel]

When I did home it was trying to click nozzle to sexbolt but I used switch coordinates. Switched to nozzle coordinates and that works. I need to test z_tilt next and make sure it picks up Klicky

[azure quarry]

I don't remember but I think you setup the location in one of the cfg files.

Like the setting was called something like switch_xy_position

[viscid parcel]

Yeah, Klicky-variables has the z endstop x/y

I just needed basic understanding of how z homed with auto z. I'm good. I will keep testing from here. Thanks for the quick response

[rough knoll]

I just made one in #1114929454158974976

[real shuttle]

Thank you! Thank you!

[viscid parcel]

So I got hung up on my start_print macro to get everything working automatically. Prior to modifying things I just manually homed, z_tilt, and calibrate_z then sent the print job and things worked great with a perfect z-offset. When I put everything in the start_print macro I was consistently 2-3 mm too high. I ended up having to remove this 'G28 Z' to resolve. Is there a step I'm missing to save the calibrated Z to endstop pos or probe so that the G28 doesn't 'reset' it? Or maybe my conclusion is completely off 🙂

################ Z probing #################
BED_MESH_CLEAR
ATTACH_PROBE_LOCK
Z_TILT_ADJUST
DOCK_PROBE_UNLOCK # E5 Pro Left side brush mount interferes with klicky
CLEAN_NOZZLE
ATTACH_PROBE_LOCK
CALIBRATE_Z
#G28 Z
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
DOCK_PROBE_UNLOCK
BED_MESH_PROFILE LOAD=default

[azure quarry]

The order that I do is full home, calibrate_z, z_tilt, ..., adaptive bed mesh. The height is perfect like that but now you've got me wondering if that's the correct order

[errant flume]

@azure quarry without hydra I'm doing home, mesh, calibrate z

with hydra the idea is to just add z tilt after home

[azure quarry]

Ah ok. Since I'm a bit slow, you are saying home, tilt, adaptive mesh, and then calibrate z?

[errant flume]

yep

I have extra stuff for cleaning nozzle on a brush

[azure quarry]

Yeah me too

I have a brush and bucket

[errant flume]

need to print a new one after having hydra up

[errant flume]

crap just noticed mine is sitting above the bed

@jovial moat spacer on the kossel too low?

[dire crow]

it seems right to me 🤔

[errant flume]

its above the bed

[jovial moat]

it should be above the bed, read the docs on it

its not a straight forward klipper setup though, be careful on setting it up and running it

[errant flume]

my concern is crashing into it when printing

I'll give it a go

[fallen flower]

That should be perfect if it’s above the bed. At first mine was 3mm above the bed and the magnets from klicky duct would grab the Sexbolt. I lowered a bit now it’s perfect.

[rough knoll]

do you guys use the short or long sexbolt end for this mod? the fabreeko kit comes with 2 lengths

[jovial moat]

mine was prebuilt, didnt have any options

guessing mine had short?

dont forget loctite

[rough knoll]

i got loctite

thanks for the reminder tho

[rough knoll]

are you comfortable sharing your config for the sexbolt now?

[jovial moat]

The settings are in 3 or 4 config files? best to read the githubs to understand how they all work together

also not sure if they have changed anything since I set mine up?

[rough knoll]

okay I will reference the github

[jovial moat]

I still honestly do not understand all of it completely

and probably have some offsets setup wrong

[rough knoll]

is it beneficial to even setup? did you notice a difference?

[jovial moat]

I havent bothered on my 5 pro yet

I still had wondering z on my 5 plus, might probably something I did wrong

[rough knoll]

hmmmmm

[dire crow]

After some time my z offset stabilized within a small range. it really depends on the nozzle cleaning process and the bed/nozzle temperature. I had various bolts in my sexbolt kit, and I installed the wrong one initially, after I swapped to the right choice (make the 2 part tightly bolted-with loctite- but still long enough to be able to click the switch) it was suddenly more consistent (I’m on a 5 pro)

now the printer goes down in the first layer extremely well. I suspect I might tune some offset for different filament, but as long as I keep printing asa it’s consistent across different spools

[fallen flower]

Fab kit? I used short and sanded down the screw a bit more. So it didn’t hit my klicky mags

[rough knoll]

fabreeko kit

[azure quarry]

I swap between Polymaker ASA and eSun PLA+ and never have to adjust my offset despite the bed and nozzle temp difference. First layers are consistently good.

[timid lance]

I've been looking into how auto z works and hoping someone here can help point out what I'm missing. I had it set up and seemingly working fine. Recently I switched to the lightweight gantry and had to move my klicky dock up by about 1mm. I figured my probe z offset might change but thought this is where auto z would handle it. The nozzle ended up too close to the bed and after a lot of tinkering with the config, the only way I could fix it was by redoing probe calibrate. This got me thinking and took a closer look into how auto z calculates the offset. From what I can tell, it's really just calculating the distance from the bed to the trigger point of the z endstop and adjusting your current offset accordingly. So this works if you have a good offset currently and it can handle for changes in the build plate but I'm not understanding how it accommodates different nozzle lengths. The formula used in the documentation is:

probe offset = probed height - ( switch height - nozzle height + switch offset)

For the sake of simplicity, let's assume we can probe the bed and switch on the same spot (so no switch offset) and our z homing is perfectly consistent (so nozzle height is always zero). This then simplifies to:

probe offset = probed height - switch height

This is just the difference between when klicky hits the bed and when klicky hits the endstop, which is just the distance from the bed to the endstop. Auto z then issues gcode command to modify your offset by this amount. The problem is it never actually references your existing offset or sets a new offset, it just tweaks the existing one without ever looking at it. I've done some testing and have been able to dial in some first layer tests by tweaking my probe z offset value. This value shouldn't matter if auto z was fully handling calculating offsets.

Given how widely used auto z is I'm sure I'm just missing something or doing something wrong. Hoping someone someone can point me in the right direction

[errant flume]

@timid lance remove probe offset from your config

you're not supposed to set it

[timid lance]

I don't have a value set in my [probe] section but there is a value in the sytem generated SAVE_CONFIG at the bottom of my printer.cfg. Are you saying to remove that? It looks like the documentation indicates an offset should be set:

[errant flume]

IIRC mine is removed

lwt me double check

## [probe]
## z_offset = 0

set but 0

[timid lance]

this is in your save_config section?

it looks like you might have it commented out, here's mine

[errant flume]

it is you can try to change it to 0

klipper says you shouldn't but I do it anyway

copy paste might have screwed code

#*# z_offset = 0```

[timid lance]

I just tried setting it to 0 and it was printing in mid air, which lines up with my other findings

[dire crow]

can you post your z calibration cfg?

[errant flume]

something's off

z config variables like @dire crow said

[dire crow]

to my understanding, the offset calculated is sexbolt to bed, changing the height of the gantry shouldn’t impact the offset, as for example happens by changing the bed sheet. that’s why there is a safety range, you might expect very different results going with a thick glass or a pei sheet, and the range should be adjusted accordingly

the only parameters the impact the height is the switch offset

[timid lance]

I agree with you there, the offset is sexbolt to bed - in that case how does it accommodate different nozzles?

[dire crow]

because it sets the z 0 with the nozzle on the sexbolt

unless somehow yours still homes with klicky 🤔

[timid lance]

so if I were to switch from a normal to a volcano nozzle, the offset calculated wouldn't change at all since the offset is sexbolt to bed but realistically the offset should be dramatically different

[dire crow]

I don’t have the before switch thing

[dire crow]

not the offset, the absolute homing point is different

[dire crow]

when you call z home does it home with the sexbolt?

[timid lance]

yes

[dire crow]

this is my config 🤔, I can’t spot blatant differences https://raw.githubusercontent.com/ffavero/MercuryOne/main/z_calibration.cfg

[dire crow]

how much mid air? than might give us a clue what’s the parameter involved

[errant flume]

switch offset seems low

[dire crow]

mine? yeah! 😅

[errant flume]

are you touching the switch body and not triggering the switch button itself

[timid lance]

yeah mine is low, had to put it that low to get good layers. I'm triggering on the body

[errant flume]

@dire crow yours is low but @timid lance is insanely low

[dire crow]

ohhh jeez! I’ve read 0.5

[errant flume]

is nozzle clean when touching the sexbolt as well?

why the g1 y-1 ?

[timid lance]

yes, I've checked it and have it run through a nozzle brush before

that's to have it avoid collisions

[errant flume]

nothing config wise seems off

how's your mesh?

I had issues before setting reference imdex on mine

try this, clear bed mesh, home, and calibrate z and move z to 0

[jovial moat]

Reference index is no longer used with the latest update

[errant flume]

oh dear lost that

need to update mine

[jovial moat]

I pinned a message about it in klipper

[errant flume]

new option i see

a lot easier to use actually

[jovial moat]

Yup

[timid lance]

yeah I get the feeling that auto z is modyfing my existing offset rather than using a new relative offset which where I think the disconnect may be

[errant flume]

did you try the steps?

[timid lance]

one sec, trying now

what should I be looking for when moving to zero?

[errant flume]

nozzle touching bed

or close enough

[timid lance]

yep, nozzle is right at the bed

[errant flume]

then z calibrate is working fine

now do a mesh, z calibrate again and z to 0

is it still good?

[dire crow]

haven’t update anything for a while 😅

[errant flume]

found the warning on mine

[timid lance]

running those steps now

[timid lance]

took a new mesh, did z calibrate, and moved z to 0, all looks good

one thing I'm wondering, do I need to have the zero reference position set in my bed mesh section?

[azure quarry]

Yes you do

[dire crow]

just as happened, I had to bump my switch offset up of 0.195mm, basically a full layer. I don’t know what happened, I had a very bad tilt episode, and the switch’ smashed the bed several time before I decided I needed to physically be there and adjust it manually. This after some time a worker on the printer and had 3 or 4 days of downtime 🤔

before was 0.285 now it’s at 0.48 (I know the new value is more reasonable than the previous)

[tribal sun]

I'm trying to figure this thing ouy, installed the swith and all, getting them offsets "correct" the printer probes the nozzle on the switch but when it's about to probe the swith with the body of my klicky i'm getting a Move out of range: 303.000 708.000 20.000 [0.000] error message. and i can't figure out where i messed up xD

[errant flume]

is it really at x 303 y 708 ?

do you have a 700mm deep printer?

[tribal sun]

no it's an E5 plus, have no idea where it gets that 708 from

[errant flume]

can you share the config for z calibrate

[tribal sun]

[z_calibration]
nozzle_xy_position: 153, 367
switch_xy_offsets: 150, 341
switch_offset: 0.5
bed_xy_position: 180,180
start_gcode: Attach_Probe
end_gcode: Dock_Probe
max_deviation: 2.5

[errant flume]

logs as well?

trying to find something off

[tribal sun]

klipper log? 🙂

it's probably something super easy but i can't locate it for the life of me...

[errant flume]

damn that's too big to read on my phone

[tribal sun]

hmm is it possible to clean the log?

yeah it was xD

wait a sec

still plenty of text but way more managble xD

[errant flume]

nothing there wrong that I can see

[jovial moat]

It's wanting to move to y 708 for some reason

Does this happen with a with a start macro

Our any time you home

[tribal sun]

No, only when i'm running the Calibrate_Z command

[jovial moat]

It might be in incremental mode rather than absolute

[tribal sun]

everything else works as it should, Z_tilt and all

[jovial moat]

Try sending a g90 command

Then calibrate

[tribal sun]

trying now

nope still the same. could it be a bug?

[jovial moat]

Might be a setting in klicky configs

I'm at work, so can't look at files right now

[tribal sun]

klicky variables i assume?

[jovial moat]

But seems like it's going into g91

I think so

[tribal sun]

can't find anything that's weird in there, i added the z endstop x and y coordinates but that's about it

[errant flume]

@tribal sun post kicky vars as well I can have a look

[tribal sun]

there

[errant flume]

Nothing weird there either, as a sanity check got the latest version of z calibration?

[tribal sun]

Yup i think i have

Might try to reinstall it tho. See If that helps

[errant flume]

Heh it's an option but a radical one

I usually avoid it

[tribal sun]

Yeah me to usually. But i'm at a loss with this one. I have looked through every cfg and macro and those Y coordinates doesn't show up anywhere 😂

Adjusting the endstop switch won't have an effect on this right?

[errant flume]

I see no reason to

Like turtle said might be relative vs absolute coordinates

But where though

You're just running the calibrate_z macro right

[tribal sun]

Yes sir

[jovial moat]

To me it seems like it's in g91 mode for some reason which will add the distance to go

So if it is at 354 and then told to move to 354, it wants to go to 708

[errant flume]

Math does add up

[jovial moat]

In g90 it would stay at 354

G91 moves relative to current location

[tribal sun]

True

[jovial moat]

G90 moves to actual location

[tribal sun]

Hmm has to be the macro for Calibration Z then? Because everything else works as it should 🤔

[tribal sun]

i'm starting to think i skipped a step or missed something :p

[errant flume]

Follow the steps again?

[tribal sun]

Yup i'm retracing my steps xD

[tribal sun]

well i reinstalled the plugin and erazed everything, tried again still the same problem xD could someone with a working setup share their settings? just so i have something to reference :9

🙂

[errant flume]

I can later not at computer now

[tribal sun]

Great ^^

no rush btw, 🙂

[errant flume]

@tribal sun just to let you know I did not forget you just no time yet

[tribal sun]

Haha it's okey. Im still not done with the build yet so ^^

[real shuttle]

@errant flume Quick question... I am setting up z_calibration and I am getting this error: A virtual endstop for z is not supported for z_calibration, how is it I setup both the probe and the z endstop?

Defining the different pins in the cfg's I guess is the right question.

`[stepper_z] # Rear Center Motor to ZAM
step_pin: PE2
dir_pin: !PE3
enable_pin: !PE0
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 4

endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop # Klicky probe Z endstop
#endstop_pin: PC0
#position_endstop: 1
position_max: 350
position_min: -4
homing_speed: 15`

this is what I have.

[tribal sun]

you have to define a real endstop, for example the z endstop pin for the Octopus is PG10 for example, you can't use a virtual endstop

the sexbolt is the new z endstop 🙂

[real shuttle]

So where is the klicky's pin defined at?

[tribal sun]

in your Probe section

[real shuttle]

There it is. I got it.

Thank you! over looked it.

[tribal sun]

let me know if you get yours to work , i'm struggeling myself xD

[real shuttle]

I'm about to test it right now.

[real shuttle]

Well that failed, drove my nozzle right into the bed!! never picked up the probe.

I would really love to see someones cfg files to see what I am missing.

[tribal sun]

ouch

did you just do the home z?

[real shuttle]

I homed the whole printer.

[tribal sun]

it's not supposed to home z with the probe. it's supposed to home with the nozzle on the sexbolt

[real shuttle]

It homed the x/y and then went right to the middle of the bed.

[tribal sun]

did you set ur sexbolt x and y coordinates?

[real shuttle]

I think it may have something to do with the start gcode at the end.

[tribal sun]

did you add the swith position in your klicky_variables?

[real shuttle]

doh, there are in there now.

Still didnt go to the sexbolt or pickup the Klicky

.0.

[azure quarry]

@real shuttle If you run Attach_Probe does it work?

[real shuttle]

Let me try

it wont let me with out homing first. when I hit home, its now going to the sex bolt but not gong to pick up the proble, just strait to the middle of the bed.

[errant flume]

disable safe home

[real shuttle]

it is, unless it is somewhere else.

[azure quarry]

So you are saying when you do a g28 it homes x/y, then it checks the sexbolt, and then moves to the middle of the bed?

Sorry I'm just trying to understand

[real shuttle]

Yes

[errant flume]

@tribal sun unfortunately yesterday I couldn't get it and today I confess I forgot

[azure quarry]

Ok and when you do the attach_probe after homing what happens?

[real shuttle]

I can’t get that far it tries to crash the nozzle into the bed and I do a shut down

It’s just missing picking up the probe entirely

[azure quarry]

ok so you do a home, it goes x/y, then taps the nozzle to the sexbolt, then moves to the center of your bed and crashes?

[real shuttle]

Yes

[azure quarry]

My home and calibrate_z are two separate operations.

When I home it only does x/y, taps the nozzle to the sexbolt, lowers z to 20, and then stops there. The head doesn't move at that point. It stays above the sexbolt.

[real shuttle]

I dropped my Z calibrate config further up in the Chad. I’m pretty sure something with the start. G code at the bottom is wrong.

[errant flume]

I need to put my config on a repo

[real shuttle]

That was the best thing I ever did. I need to set it up on this printer to

[azure quarry]

So taking a step back, where is your include for autoz.cfg?

[real shuttle]

Printer.cfg.

[azure quarry]

This is my cfg:

[z_calibration] nozzle_xy_position: 156,365 switch_xy_position: 152,336 bed_xy_position: 185,185 switch_offset: 3.0 safe_z_height: 20 offset_margins: -10,10 max_deviation: 10 speed: 200 start_gcode: Attach_Probe end_gcode: Dock_Probe

Can you post your klicky-variables.cfg?

[real shuttle]

Yeah, give me a few minutes. I’m pulling into work right now. I’ll send it to Susan get to my computer.

[azure quarry]

Take your time 🙂

[tribal sun]

yeah still can't figure out my problem -_- i made a thread about in the github about my Move out of range error xD

[azure quarry]

Unfortunately nothing pops out to me that could be wrong.

The thing that concerns me is that your nozzle moves to the center of the bed on a home operation

As flow4enol said, your safe_z_home is commented out in printer.cfg?

When you have a chance please post your printer.cfg.

[real shuttle]

I have everything parted out, thats is probably not in my printer.cfg anymore. Is there something specific you are looking for?
I just setup github if you can access that.
https://github.com/TheAZtech/Mercury_One.1

I also think I have it move to the center with something I set up. let me look for it.

Maybe here?

location to park the toolhead

variable_park_toolhead: True # Enable toolhead parking
variable_parkposition_x: 186
variable_parkposition_y: 183
variable_parkposition_z: 15

[azure quarry]

I don't think it's that. I have it also albeit with different x, y, and z positions.

You really broke your settings into a lot of includes. I'm wondering if the order in which they are included is what is causing the problem.

[real shuttle]

hmm, I can reorganize the files from here, but I wont be able to test that till I get home.

[azure quarry]

It's just a guess. Honestly I can't really see where the issue is. When I issue a G28 my printer doesn't move the nozzle to the middle of the bed like yours. It just does x/y and then the sexbolt and stops there.

I saw that you commented z_offset. You have to leave that.

At least initially I believe that you need to set an approximate value.

[real shuttle]

klipper did that when I calibrated the z_offset the value is in the SAVE_CONFIG section in the printer.cfg

[azure quarry]

Ah right.

So that means you were at one point able to do a z_calibration?

[real shuttle]

yep, right untill I installed the auto z calibration.

Everything Klicky was working till I attempted to use the SexBolt

[azure quarry]

I think in your SKR3EZ.cfg file you've got the wrong setting for the stepper_z enstop_pin

Oh wait no forget that

[real shuttle]

I am running through all the code, line by line trying to find something that stands out. Im not a coder though so most of this is a foreign language to me.

[gcode_macro _Probe_Variables] variable_probe_attached: False variable_probe_state: False variable_probe_lock: False variable_probe_z_homed: False variable_z_endstop_x: 0 variable_z_endstop_y: 0 gcode:

What are these for? In the klicky_macros.cfg

[azure quarry]

I have those lines as well. All except variable_probe_z_homed.

[real shuttle]

Are the flags the same?

[azure quarry]

Yeah

We don't seem to have the same files. Your klicky_macros is over 900 lines. Mine is 723.

I'm going to need to rest on this. I'll look at this again with you tomorrow.

[real shuttle]

I get that, its all from the updates he did, like he revamped the entire thing.
No worries, I appreciate the help and will let you know if I come across anything. Thank you for everything,

[azure quarry]

I'm not sure how important this really is but I was going through the readme. It says that you have to have put the include for klicky-probe.cfg at the top of the macros section. You have your setup broken out into many cfg files and it isn't at the top.

[real shuttle]

Okay, finally able to continue working on this.

I set this to false and it is no longer moving to the center of the bed and trying to home the zed.

# location to park the toolhead variable_park_toolhead: False # Enable toolhead parking variable_parkposition_x: 186 variable_parkposition_y: 183 variable_parkposition_z: 15

Now, when I press the Home-All, it homes the X then Y then moves to the bolt clicks it twice and stops, displaying this in the Console.

02:25:01 $ G28 02:25:01 // No axis homed 02:25:01 // moving to a safe Z distance 02:25:01 // X or Y not homed, forcing full G28 02:25:01 // Homing X 02:25:01 // Homing Y 02:25:01 // Homing Z 02:25:01 // probe: TRIGGERED 02:25:09 // Probe already docked 02:25:10 // probe: TRIGGERED 02:25:20 // probe: TRIGGERED

[azure quarry]

So weird that mine is true and we don't have teh same behavior.

Ok so you are homed. Try doing calibrate_z

[real shuttle]

Like I said, jlas1 changed a lot in this new version.

okay

That was terrifying, 😬 But...

[azure quarry]

Lol

[real shuttle]

02:41:26 // Attaching Probe 02:41:29 // probe: open 02:41:34 // probe at 162.000,376.000 is z=-0.005000 02:41:40 // probe at 157.000,348.000 is z=9.486250 02:41:45 // probe at 189.400,125.000 is z=9.692500 02:41:45 // Z-CALIBRATION: probe=9.692 - (switch=9.486 - nozzle=-0.005 + switch_offset=0.500) --> new offset=-0.298750 02:41:45 // HINT: z position_endstop=0.000 - offset=-0.298750 --> possible z position_endstop=0.299 02:41:53 // probe: TRIGGERED

[azure quarry]

awesome!

Ok I have to head out for a few hours but...

You can now move your nozzle to the center of the bed

Raise the Z to about 5mm

Then slowly raise it until you get to 0.1mm

at that point the paper should just catch

If it is too high or too low you'll need to adjust your switch_offset value. I think your's is at 0.5. Mine is at 3.0.

If I recall correctly the higher the value the closer you will bring the nozzle to the bed.

Once you are happy you can add the calibrate_z command to your start_print macro

[real shuttle]

Awesome, again thanks for everything.

[azure quarry]

My pleasure. You'll be very happy that you installed this. Auto-z, KAMP, and nozzle purge and brush were my favorite mods.

[real shuttle]

Cool, brush is printed thats will be setup soon.

[tribal sun]

yo what kind of black magis is this, you got it to work? 😄

[azure quarry]

It's an awesome mod once it works. Saves time and my prints are much better. But the problem is that the developers are kind of like hobbyists. They make changes that break stuff or as we learned here, can change the behaviour of some variables.

[tribal sun]

yeah that's why i want to get this to work xD but i get this damned move out of range bs when the prone body is supposed to hit the z switch xD

[azure quarry]

Did you set your min distance for x and y?

I'm not in front of my computer now but it sounds like that.

[tribal sun]

Move out of range: 303.000 708.000 25.000 [0.000] i haveit set to minus 25 for x and y, but Y here is trying to move to the moon. and i have no idea where it get's that 708 from

[azure quarry]

Oh right I saw you posted about that

[tribal sun]

Yeah 🙂 It's fascinationg xD

oh spelling

[azure quarry]

If you want to post your configs I can try looking at them when I have a chance

[tribal sun]

https://github.com/ForgetableMajor/Zero-G-Hydra/tree/main

there i uploaded all my files to github 🙂

[azure quarry]

@tribal sun Does your home work correctly?

[azure quarry]

I'm looking at your start_print macro and I'm not sure if the issue you are having is when you print or if it also happens when you just do a G28 followed by CALIBRATE_Z.

[tribal sun]

it homes correctly yes

[azure quarry]

and what if you do a calibrate_z after the home?

[tribal sun]

well i haven't tried printing yet, it's as far as i know onmly happens when i try calibrate_z

[azure quarry]

Ok so you home the printer and then run calibrate_z. This throws the error?

[tribal sun]

yes it probes the nozzle on the z switch then it throwes the error after that

[azure quarry]

It attaches the probe though?

[tribal sun]

it does

z_tilt and everything else klicky related works as intended

[azure quarry]

I don't know if it matters since your variable_park_toolhead is false

But you have variable_parkposition_x: 188,5

shouldn't it be 188.5 (decimal instead of comma)?

You are sensorless homing?

[tribal sun]

sensorless on Y yes

[tribal sun]

well i changed the comma to a decimal, didn't work

[azure quarry]

Yeah I didn't think it would. I'm wondering if it's the sensorless y. I don't have any experience with that.

Anyways I saw that you posted an issue on the GitHub so hopefully they respond

[tribal sun]

hopefully, if not then i'll skip this and just doing it the old way xD

[tribal sun]

YO IT WORKS!!! Dunno what i did but it works!

[azure quarry]

Lol take a backup quick!

[real shuttle]

haha, thats what I did!

[real shuttle]

I am appropriating some code. 😋

[tribal sun]

now i just have to wire up the SSR and then my printer i sall but done ^^

[tribal sun]

take whatever you want ^^

[real shuttle]

You got that, I mine has been working flawlessly, if you need anything.

[tribal sun]

oh i have saved ur github, just u wait. i take it all 😉

[real shuttle]

lol, awesome!

[tribal sun]

what's ur switch offset?

just curious

[real shuttle]

I am still trying to figure that out, I am having an issue getting it to 0.1, things seam to change on there own. Trying to figure out what sequence to do things in.

[tribal sun]

yeah, it aint super crystal clear

[tribal sun]

i guess the start macro is the thing that messes with me the most

[real shuttle]

Just how to order things?

I never got the {PREHEAT} thing to work with the slicers. I have a 50w heater so it heats is a fraction of the time anyway and just never worried about it.

[tribal sun]

Right

[azure quarry]

Mine is at 3. This gives me a perfect height. Nozzle just touches a sheet of paper at 0.1mm z height.

[real shuttle]

I am going to try that real quick. What is your position_endstop: for Z set to?

[azure quarry]

It is set to 1. But you shouldn't use my switch_offset without testing. The proper way to do it is to start with a small value like 0.5. Then do a calibrate_z and then move your nozzle to the middle of the bed and 5mm z-height.

Then raise the bed until it barely touches the paper. If you are at a negative value it is fine. You take that negative value and apply it to your switch_offset minus a few fractions just to be safe.

For example, if the z is at -0.5 when it touches the paper you can add 0.4 or 0.5 to your switch_offset. Then repeat the test.

[real shuttle]

Sorry, I am just trying to understand. When I set everything to 0 (position_endstop and z-offset) it gives me HINT: z position_endstop=2.298 This correlates with how far the top of the button is from the top of the build plate? And should I set that as the position_endstop:?

I believe things are relative when doing this, so I dont think it matters, I need to read the doc again on how it works.

[azure quarry]

You are right it's a relative value and you could set the position to the hint. I don't recall why but I just set it to 1mm and adjusted the nozzle distance using switch_ offset.

[real shuttle]

okay, with that all that setup, I paper slightly rubs at 0.2. switch offset is at 0.5, I am going to 0.6 and that should take that 0.1 correct? Theoretically? lol

[real shuttle]

opps, 0.4, okay, its set at 0.1.

[real shuttle]

@tribal sun Is your start_print working okay, the one on github?

[tribal sun]

yeah all except the calibrate z part

[real shuttle]

okay, thanks. does it mess with the offset doing it every print?

[azure quarry]

Calibrate_z is part of my start_print.

You should do it each print because the offset changes depending on things like bed and nozzle temperature if you use different filaments.

So you'll want to run it after the bed and nozzle have reached temp.

[dire crow]

I never got it right with the paper trick, it’s very subjective in my opinion. but it a good starting point, the next step for me is a big 230x230x0.25 square, and babystep until I see a correct first layer.. I like to go all the way of the spectrum, going too close and going too far, so to make an objective self reference. than take the final z offset of the best first layer, compare it to the z-calibrate results of the at the beginning of the print and adjust the z-offset accordingly

make sure your switch is properly cleanand trigger/release all the way through. I had issues once because I tried some glue stick on my bed, and it partially jammed my switch. I had very inconsistent results until I properly clean it

[real shuttle]

I started measuring the thickness of what I was using, found the sticky note was 0.8 in thickness, I do have 0.10 feeler and those are spot on so redid everything with those. I am still seeing some inconsistent results, with have to restart prints as the nozzle is to close sometimes. its a work in progress and it works well when it dose work.

[dire crow]

for me the square babystep tuning it’s a well spent 20min. I don’t have to calibrate my z anymore, I switched to a different hotend, changed filament, nozzle, always good first layer without any change on the setup (bit true I moved 3mm to the right the z home position in the new hotend 😅)

[dire crow]

do you have a nozzle brush?

because you really need one, it changed my results from erratic to micron-sized repeatability

[real shuttle]

I have it printed, just need to install it.

I also didn’t loctite the bolt like everyone said you should do. 😬

So I will be doing that when I install things.

[dire crow]

with the 5+ you can reach the back of the bed with the nozzle, there is plenty of space compared to the 5. I’d just to the brush asap, it’s just removes a variable from the final outcome

[dire crow]

that might be important on the long run, if you see inconsistency within runs it unlikely to be the blu loctite… unless your bolt is really loose 😅

[real shuttle]

Definitely will work on that when I get home.

[azure quarry]

With my Plus I had to put my brush on the side. I didn't put my rails far enough back 😠. Works fine though.

[real shuttle]

Brush installed, any good resources to set it up?

[dire crow]

I just winged it, made a macro that just repeatedly pass on top of the brush in some zig-zag pattern, so I can call it whenever I want from mainsail. also I’ve place the macros several times in the print start macro, importantly before the calibrate z step

I can’t send my macro, discord blocks it, probably for the best, I haven’t put much research on it 😝

but you can see all my macros here https://raw.githubusercontent.com/ffavero/MercuryOne/main/macros.cfg

[real shuttle]

No worries, I appreciate it. Thank you!

[real shuttle]

Even clears the Klicky! 😁

[errant flume]

@real shuttle this is a pro right?

[real shuttle]

Plus

[errant flume]

can you point me to the klicky mount?

mine is colliding with the toolhead when it goes back

[real shuttle]

#1010991671426682951

I can send it to you as well.

[errant flume]

please do there are a few versions there

[tribal sun]

ignore these values they ain't mine i'm getting this error

Offset -1.025 is outside the configured range of min=-1.000 and max=1.000

Any idea how to solve this? I tried to change the values in offset_margins but it feels like the -1 and plus 1 values are hardcoded into the plugin.

[pallid lava]

dig that brush mod you have there, is it available anywhere?

[jovial moat]

Not happy with how that location works. Have crashed the klicky probe into it to many times

So I will not share that one

[pallid lava]

I would just mount it front of the printer so the nozzle hits first

[jovial moat]

It's not that simple

[errant flume]

@pallid lava for me it kind of defeats the purpose of a brush

does it even fit the front?

[jovial moat]

Bedb mesh, z tilt, docking and unlocking. It would move in such ways that it would crash my klicky into the brush

And I tried to code around it

And mine was designed with zero adjustment to fit my printer

Anyways it's a part I am not happy with. And I only share stuff I am happy with.

[rough knoll]

I made a similar nozzle brush i will tag you in the channel @pallid lava

[scenic fossil]

I know this is an old post but just in case:
I was having this issue. I changed my stepper_z:position_endstop value to the (rough) distance of sexbolt to bed. In my case, the sexbolt stuck up around 3mm higher than the bed, so I set it to 3

[quiet hearth]

@jovial moat would it be possible for you to share the cad file for the modified minitanks as I plan on using an unklicky version of the Sexbolt mod which needs to sit a little further back (about 3mm I think, havent measured precisely yet) so I can adjust the mount for the sexbolt?

[errant flume]

been considering moving to unklicky sexbolt

guess it wont fit these

[quiet hearth]

I found this one:
https://github.com/Pjeran/Voron-Mods/tree/main/UnKlickyBolt
The screw pattern fits, it just needs to be little further back otherwise the bed is in the way
But I realized it's not suitable to use with an unklicky BFP Probe as you cant properly probe the probe body on it

[errant flume]

https://github.com/majarspeed/Unklicky/tree/main/Unklicky_Endstops/Unklicky_SexBolt

now that I think about it the holes on this one are further apart

[quiet hearth]

I know but those have a different hole pattern

[modest void]

so after looking at this, is there a mount for a non hydra plus?

[torn coral]

https://www.printables.com/model/232804-z-endstop-for-klipper-auto-z-calibrate-mercury-one

[modest void]

you know, i think im falling for you.... 😉

Lmao

[jovial moat]

This is only for hydra, and you need to have enough y travel to reach it

I also have not bothered to install it on my 5 pro after switching to a 255 bed, since I have more consistent z without it

[modest void]

@jovial moat hmm.. I have enough y travel behind my bed. Maybe my rails are longer than what they should be?

[jovial moat]

5 pro with the 275 hydra bed does not have the space needed

5 plus has plenty, and 5 pro with a 255 bed and 330 rails also has enough

[modest void]

@jovial moat mine is the 5 plus

[viscid parcel]

Am I the only one that has to use a super low switch_offset? I've settled on 0.27 with my smooth PEI sheet and the results are good and consistent but way lower than suggested.

[real shuttle]

No, you are not, I have gotten as low as .12, shits annoying the hell out of me right now. I started investigating all the things before I had to leave for work today. I can provide you with the results of my findings if I can remember to do so.

[errant flume]

mine used to float

from .5 to .3

moved to unklicky I don't see it happening

but I could be talking too soon

[tribal sun]

well this is certainly annoying

happens when i'm trying to do Calibrate_Z command, just knocks the klicky probe off

[viscid parcel]

Must be a z-hop setting to prevent that. Let me check my config

[tribal sun]

Thx 😊

[viscid parcel]

Do you have this in klicky-variables.cfg?

variable_enable_z_hop: True

[tribal sun]

yes it's set to true

[real shuttle]

@tribal sun

Safe_z needs to be adjusted. I set mine to 15

[viscid parcel]

Mine is 25
Try that?

[real shuttle]

Sorry tagged the wrong person.

[viscid parcel]

Oh heh. I thought you were him

[hasty pendant]

so it shouldnt check the nozzle once picked up the probe. i think your probe location numbers are wrong and you have the nozzle location there. it should check nozzle. pick up probe. check probe height. then go the center of bed and check that then put the probe away.

[tribal sun]

Hmm

[tribal sun]

I need to check that in the morning

[hasty pendant]

ill get video of mine later.

[tribal sun]

Thx dude 😊

[viscid parcel]

I have my start GCode configured to grab the probe before G28 Z and calibrate_z. It clicks the nozzle to endstop, switch body to endstop then clicks build plate. So either scenario should work. I think Safe_z will ensure you have a minimum amount of z height for moves while probe is attached and that is likely an issue based on the video.

[hasty pendant]

there may be 2 issues. the lift height looks okay since it picks the probe up no problem. but the Z calibrate does have a safe Z also. i think i left that empty and used the Zoffset front the probe section.

[viscid parcel]

My z_calibration section has:

start_gcode: Attach_Probe
before_switch_gcode: Attach_Probe
end_gcode: Dock_Probe

I think that's why it automatically grabs the probe before checking nozzle. Anyway here is my calibrate_z

Apologies for the portrait orientation and squeaky pom nuts

[hasty pendant]

i have the same but in the start gcode section i just hit my nozzle brush. not pick up the probe

[modest void]

@hasty pendant which mounts are you using.

[hasty pendant]

For?

[modest void]

@hasty pendant sorry, sex bolt. Are you running the hydra ones in this thread or a different one?

[hasty pendant]

My own but it's a remix.

[modest void]

@hasty pendant ah gotcha. I'm having a hell of a time finding one that works

[hasty pendant]

I can send files. It's for a plus

[modest void]

That would be awesome!

Thanks

[torn coral]

Can you share with me as well? Thanks!

[hasty pendant]

I'll post it here. It's not for a sexbolt but original voron

[modest void]

@hasty pendant it's not by any chance compatible with this is it?
Hartk Sexbolt Z Limit Endstop PCB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BP7H27C5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[hasty pendant]

probably wouldnt be hard to make it work.

i believe this is what i have

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Trident-Endstop-Sexbolt-Switch/dp/B09WRBJFKS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=9ERALY5N9TYQ&keywords=voron%2B2.4%2Bz%2Bendstop&qid=1699622585&sprefix=voron%2B2.4%2Bz%2Bendstop%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-4&th=1

mine is based on this. https://github.com/Vprince099/ZANDVE/blob/main/Type-Z/STLs/Limit_Switch_Mounts/Mech_Z_Endstop_Assembly.stl

[modest void]

Lol I bought this and returned it 🤦🏾‍♂️

[hasty pendant]

if you have some cad skill turning this into a sexbolt would be somewhat easy.

[modest void]

No real cad skills here unfortunately 😦 I have dabbled in tinkercad but I'm still super new to it

[hasty pendant]

my slightly updated one. sits lower. i also have another updated one that i didnt finish that accepts a cable chain also.

[hasty pendant]

if you have a sexbolt i can mod the first file to fit a sexbolt.

[modest void]

all i have is this item here
Hartk Sexbolt Z Limit Endstop PCB... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BP7H27C5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

[hasty pendant]

What's the diameter of the brass tube?

[modest void]

so i just realized, i moved the guts of that over to the voron sexbolt

[torn coral]

@hasty pendant Would you mind including images of how you have it installed and if you're using a nozzle brush it (and if so, how you have it placed in relation to your Sexbolt)?

[hasty pendant]

currently have the brush removed cuz i want to add a poop shoot for when i go mmu. ill add photos of my z endstop

[viscid parcel]

If you have Hydra the sexbolt bits are the purpose for this channel. Should probably have some pins in here. Sorry if I'm sharing info you already have and missing the question.

#1019074054285692959 message

#1019074054285692959 message

#1019074054285692959 message

And I'm using this for nozzle brush:
https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1114929454158974976

@jovial moat Could you please pin the above top three sexbolt topic links, if appropriate?

[cold frost]

I do not have Hydra but I have added a sexbolt today, I have an issue where when I go to print its printing in mid air

[hasty pendant]

did you sent everyhing up correct?

[cold frost]

I believe I had, I was taking a look at the math it was doing and it doesn't really make sense though lol

[cold frost]

like manually measuring it it should be closer to 10 like the probe value and the formula alone without subtracting from probe

[hasty pendant]

there might be a - instead of a + somewhere i had a similar issue when i setup initionally

[cold frost]

That's what I had thought but I've checked all my values and they seem good
z endstop position: 4.1 (above bed, when only homing, z 0.2 measures correct with feeler gauge)
autoz switch_offset: 0.25 (positive following video guide provided on github page, adjusted to make sure after offset that z 0.2 measures correctly with feeler gauge)
the measured distance of switch - nozzle = 9.769 matches the manually measured offset
so that just leaves the probe value, which im not sure where it is getting it from

I've posted an issue on the github asking about this aswell

[hasty pendant]

post your z endstop config and probe section

[cold frost]

[probe]
pin: PE5
x_offset: -14
y_offset: -22
z_offset: 0.00

[stepper_z]
endstop_pin: PC13
position_endstop: 4.1
homing_speed: 10

auto_z Config
https://pastebin.com/XqyXt9z9

[cold frost]

its just odd, I feel like if it just used the
(switch=13.642 - nozzle=4.087 + switch_offset=0.250) it would be great
that's what im going to do for now, just take that value and manually set it in my z-offset

[real shuttle]

Well this is interesting, https://github.com/majarspeed/Unklicky/tree/main/Unklicky_Endstops/Unklicky_SexBolt

Wonder how hard it would be to modify the current version for this.

[errant flume]

yeah I like it but there's a problem I don't have more y travel

[hasty pendant]

could you do x wise? or front of the bed.

[errant flume]

nope

[dire crow]

does it take mmore space that the normal sexbolt? when I finish my pla chores I was planning to give this unkicky sexbolt a shot

[errant flume]

I think the holes don't match with the original one

check above @quiet hearth mentioned that

[dire crow]

I see, that's going to be an issue, but it looks like an easy fix to do

[errant flume]

if you can make it work it would be great

[quiet hearth]

@dire crow @errant flume
https://github.com/Pjeran/Voron-Mods/tree/main/UnKlickyBolt

[dire crow]

you make a plate with both hole patterns.. or just be vary subtle, and use some cyanoacrylate

[quiet hearth]

that one is compatible (I tried but the print came out bad and I decided I dont want auto-z)

[dire crow]

actually, I've recently stopped using automatic auto z. I rather use the sexbolt for easy calibration, and it's going to be useless if it floats around. I suspect I inadvertidly screw in/out the sexbolt from time to time, eg when cleaning

[errant flume]

mine has been flawless since I moved to unklicky and fine tuned the switch iffset

[errant flume]

but now the sexbolt klick is anoiyng

[errant flume]

I had forgotten about that, instructions are a bit lacking though

[quiet hearth]

What instructions XD

[errant flume]

exactly

[errant flume]

anyway printing I'll figure it out

[quiet hearth]

there is a cad
that shows how to assemble it

[errant flume]

does not have the wires 😛

or magnets

[quiet hearth]

well
also iirc the pin is the wrong way in the cad(at least if you look at the wire holes)

[errant flume]

printed fine FYI pin does not fit in the body

[quiet hearth]

interesting

[errant flume]

reducing it magnets seem to attach on the selected areas

[quiet hearth]

what do you mean?

[errant flume]

I was editing the pin to make it thinner to fit

so ended up looking at it to see how it's assembled

[errant flume]

@quiet hearth @dire crow in case you want this has more clearance

might be a little too loose now

[dire crow]

hahahah, I tried to name a forbidden vendor and the message was blocked!!! 😂

[errant flume]

.1 has extra 0,1mm clearance and same applies to .2

[dire crow]

I just realised I got the sexbolt kit from them, and I trust the clicking even less now!

[errant flume]

wait where did I get mine

nope, blurolls

[real shuttle]

This is awesome! So as someone being very uneducated on the unklicky does this wire up the same way the unklicky tool head mount does?

[errant flume]

yup should be the same

[real shuttle]

Awesome, I am going to start working on these.

[real shuttle]

Few questions, do you have a link to the unklicky you are running, things look different than what I thought I saw in the past. Also is there a good write up somewhere?

[errant flume]

repo is here https://github.com/majarspeed/Unklicky
the version im using is this
https://github.com/majarspeed/Unklicky/tree/main/Unklicky_Probes/BFP-HS

[real shuttle]

Okay, awesome. I started putting together this one. https://github.com/jlas1/Klicky-Probe/blob/main/Probes/Unklicky/STL/BFP Unklicky Body.stl

[errant flume]

@quiet hearth screw the guy who designed that shit, the wire is impossible to get on the hole

[quiet hearth]

welp

[errant flume]

fixed, I'll remix this

[real shuttle]

Got this one together last night and tested the connections, then went to bed, I have the one above on the build plate but it sounds like I should wait?

[errant flume]

sexbolt wait

I want to make it easier to assemble

I'll put it on #1007998760967737364 as soon as I adjust it

hopefully today

[real shuttle]

No worries, thank you!!

[errant flume]

https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1177778236864872509

modded version there to avoid further polluting discussion on this.
Also @quiet hearth and @dire crow if you're interested

[errant flume]

@jovial moat can you share the STEP?

[fierce pagoda]

hey I have just purchased the same, what are the differences? do they stop it fitting on with this tank part? 🙂

[stark sonnet]

Oh man. As far as I remember, the pcb didn't fit, the bolt wasn't the correct length and it didn't have the correct diameter. That's all I remember tbh.

[fierce pagoda]

oh... ;-;

[sacred barn]

Not sure what went wrong here. My sexbolt sits about 4mm too tall to fit under the bed.

[quiet hearth]

you missed the spacer tubes between bed and minitanks

[sacred barn]

Well that would certainly do it. 🤦‍♂️

[quiet hearth]

@jovial moat any chance of getting the cad for those Minitanks?

[teal compass]

hiya guys, just wanna check if the caveat at the very top still applies? as in that this won't work with 275 bed due to space?

[errant flume]

yes as far as I know

[teal compass]

thx

[real shuttle]

Are they not in the Hydra CAD or are there updated ones?

[quiet hearth]

I meant the sexbolt minitanks

[real shuttle]

Ahh, sorry.

[quiet hearth]

dw :)

[stoic oyster]

@jovial moat

https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron Mods/Voron 2/2.4/Voron2.4_SexBolt_ZEndstop

this link is dead 😦

https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron Mods/Voron 2-Trident/2.4/Voron2.4_SexBolt_ZEndstop

?

[crisp belfry]

I abandoned the sex bolt mod because my klicky magnets were picking up the 5mm rod as it passes by

[jovial moat]

A proper sex bolt uses a sex bolt which keeps it from being able to be pulled out.

There are more basic versions that use a pin

[winged swift]

Has anyone got a klipper config to use as a guide.

[winged swift]

I think I've figured it out. Took me a bit to wrap my head around

[winged swift]

This mod is the best mod in the world

[errant flume]

hey @jovial moat any chance you can share the step for these? even if hydra tanks changed in the meantime it would be easier to make an updated version with it which is what I'm considering

[jovial moat]

I'll try to rememver to save them out when I have time

[cyan narwhal]

I couldn't find a copy of the CAD file(s) for the minitanks with the sexbolt mount incorporated, so I mocked up one myself. It's attached if anyone wants to use it.
The magnet size for my design is 11.7 x 4.5 mm, but it is easy to modify as needed.
Thanks to @jovial moat for the original design that this copies.
I've also attached a slightly modified sexbolt casing (based on the hartk1213 design) with the bolt housing recessed back to keep it from touching the heated bed.

Original hart1213 sexbolt: https://github.com/hartk1213/MISC/tree/main/Voron Mods/Voron 2/2.4/Voron2.4_SexBolt_ZEndstop

[ebon cedar]

I don’t want to be rude, this is really interesting… but then again? How does Hydra benefit from this ? I thought the hole idea IS the bed along with a probe ?

[true tinsel]

'[gcode_macro START_PRINT]
gcode:
{% set BED_TEMP = params.BED_TEMP|default(60)|float %}
{% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = params.EXTRUDER_TEMP|default(200)|float %}

M117

# Start heating everything early
M140 S{BED_TEMP}
M104 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP}

# Home first
G28

# Wait for bed and soak
M190 S{BED_TEMP}
G4 P300000

# Gantry leveling
Z_TILT_ADJUST

# Mesh BEFORE Auto Z
BED_MESH_CALIBRATE

# Wait for nozzle to fully heat
M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP}

# Clean nozzle
CLEAN_NOPURGE

# Auto Z LAST
CALIBRATE_Z

SET_FAN_SPEED Fan=driver_fan SPEED=1

G90
G1 Z5 F3000

LINE_PURGE

'

I can't get the Auto z to work with this mod and the previous print start