#tripping breaker
121 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
So, US 110V AC circuit, right?
Yes
It looks like I just need to switch the yellow and black wires
Does that sound right to you
Black to the N
Red to the L
Yellow/green to the earth ground (inverted tree)
You are lucky you didn't shock the shit out of yourself.
You are quite lucky that you are here to talk about this...
Take a close up photo of the IEC mains plug, from the front and the back.
Is there really that high a chance it would’ve started a fire or something?
Also what is IEC
You could've been a goner dear...
The mains plug
I don't want to dogpile you with safety stuff, but you have to be careful with 1!0VAC. It is an entirely different animal than 12/24VDC.
Technically your wiring colors coming from the plug are wrong, the one that is jumped through the fuse should be black and that should go to L, it should be a white wire from the other pole of the inlet to N and the Yellow/Green from earth ground to earth ground.
That is correct
What do I need to change?
It powers on without catching anything on fire now btw
I am worried about you not a fire
😍
Sorry, I appreciate your concern @south helm, sounds like a lot could’ve gone wrong
Are you running a 24v bed heater?
I’m running the fabreeko bed heater
Wait do I have the SSR backwards
This thing can easily kill you, look we can help to wire it correctly, but i would really get somebody who can help in person
Everyone nearby that I know knows less about this than I do
One side of the ssr gets signal from the main board, other side 1 port goes to live other port to bed heater
Live meaning 24v off the PSU?
Polarity matter on the signal side
No
By live wire i mean a phase. I think its called live. Its the 110V
As in the wire coming off the power plug?
Yup, if the heater is 110v,i think fabrekoo only sells those
Well I guess the power switch
On your SSR, on of the white wires from the heater need to go to the N where the wires from your plug connect.
The other white wire from the heater stays connected to the SSR, then you need a wire from the L on the power supply to the other terminal on the same side of the SSR where both white wires are now.
If you do not understand power, messing with this line level stuff can hurt you really bad to the point of being deadly.
Fair, but so far my approach is just not touching anything while it’s plugged in
Do you guys have reversible wall plugs in the US? In my country i can plug it in 2 ways, so possibly change up live and neutural
Unfortunately no, they only go in one way
Thats fortunately😀
I just fixed it at the power supply
Dont worry about that - it's just showing power for the pi..
And then for SSR Control will the HE0 connections work for that?
I would advise to find an electrician or somebody who works with printers and let them do it. You can put it together and it may work, but you won't understand how it works and tou could put yourself in danger
Okay, so the "INPUT" side of the SSR in the diagram corresponds to the terminals labeled "3" and "4" on your SSR. These get connected to the pins that you have configured in your config files.
110VAC in the US has a Live(BLACK) wire, a neutral(WHITE) wire and a Ground(GREEN/GREEN&YELLOW/BARE COPPER) wire.
It is going to get confusing because your LIVE wire is RED inside the printer, and your NEUTRAL wire is BLACK.
The first thing that you need to do is disconnect your SSR. Take everything off of it.
Okay done
Do you have wires installed on the HE0 terminals on your MCU?
Yes
What are they connected to now?
Also please take of a photo of the breaker that popped. I think that is a gfci, but just to make sure you have one
It’s built into the wall of my apartment…
3 and 4 of the SSR
also for people saying he could have died i mean its possible, but i know a lot fo electricians who get shocked by 110V all the time.
GFCI is not required in most areas by code unless the circuit is exposed to wet weather conditions.
First time it would’ve happened to me without paying someone
its possible, but for a normal, young, healthy human it shouldn't kill you.
@peak hornet is the polarity correct? + to + and - to -?
Cool.
Does matter how you get shocked, if thdre is a chance its a risk that should not be taken
Well unless the risk is low and it’s keeping you from doing something and you take precautions
Geez, i thought thats mandatory everywhere now
Now, pick terminal 1 or 2 on your SSR and attach one of the white leads from the bed heater to it.
Does it matter + or -?
No, there is no polarity here.
Cool then done
actually, can you please post a picture of the top of your SSR without the wires blocking it? Id like to see the rating on it if its there..
(Only because I'm not familiar with that model.)
I made sure to match it up with the Omron fabreeko sells
Wattage of the bed? 1kw?
Yes
You will have 9A load max, i didnt chexk the datasheet but i am sure it will. Overheat without a heatsink
My omron is 20A, datasheet says max 4A without heatsink
I didn't forget about you - I want to look a spec up though. I don't think you want to continue with that relay.
It says 10A
Would the Omron be any better?
Just because it can handle 10 doesn't mean it can handle ot without cooling
I dont know this brand, so cant say, i just went with omron cause i know they sell quality. But without heatsink i am sure yours wont handle it
Okay well what can I do then or should I just say my bad and toss like $2k worth of printer + parts
You can have it done, but it needs more explaining if you wanna do it yourself.
@peak hornet, this is what I'm concerned about: Solid State Relays switch load VIA one of two mechanisms. AC switching is done VIA TRIAC, where DC voltage is commonly switched by MOSFET.
Okay, I’m just gonna get this out of the way since it seems like it’s going to be an issue, I’m going to build the printer, I don’t know any electricians and I’m not willing to go find one
This is DC-labeled SSR. If you attempt to switch AC current with a MOSFET, you will only get half-phase power passed because of the way MOSFETS switch.
Ohh really i didnt even check that is dc dc not dc ac
Since this doesn't appear to be a very well-documented SSR, we need to assume that the labeling is accurate. I would not recommend continuing to wire this for AC service.
I know that you don't want to hear that when you're trying to finish your printer, but you need to source an appropriate SSR.
If you have time for the printer i would recommend goimg step by step eith the build read up on stuff and ask. I would help, but thats not a fast process
I don’t mind having to get proper parts but fuck me if I’m going to hire an electrician as a college student to come build a printer
Are you in a hurry eith the printer? Can you convert it back to original state for now?
Not currently
It was a working m1.1 like a week ago, I’m just doing all of this now because I’m doing Hydra and the electronics enclosure
Dude, I will be happy to help you with every step of it. Hell, I'll send you an SSR if you want. Everybody learns sometime - there's nothing wrong with that.
Do you have cashapp/ Venmo? I’ll buy the SSR from you if you have an extra
You didn't get hurt, that's what is important. Leave the rest of it behind and know that you picked up some knowledge for next time.
Message me a good shipping address.
Also it would be a good idea to get proper color wires aswell
True, I don’t know what the standard colors are but these wires are almost all reused from the original creality printer
I think somebody said white is neutural, black is live and protective earth is green yellow, but correct me if i am wrong i am on a different continent.
Those are correct color conventions for US 110VAC.
Uh-oh. The boss is here. 😳🤣
Being cautious to avoid liability, docs would benefit from a 'typical' wiring diagram.
https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/electrical/
Also, seems like @peak hornet is learning here. Most importantly, his house breaker did its job and he didn't get hurt. I think the collective knowledge can guide him through this process.
Definitely something I'll write up when I'm doing the electronic enclosure docs
I think that would be time well spent. I think if a-a-ron is having trouble, many others will as well. Making the setup/build/config as easy as possible will definitely increase the appeal to the prospective builder.
There is loads of vids on youtube that show how an ac bed is wired up with a thermal fuse and an ssr. Do some research and definetly learn about the difference between ac current and dc current. This is stuff you dont want go at like a bull in a china shop. Take your time but pleeaaase do some research first for your own safety first and not torching your house second and damaging expensive parts or your printer third
@peak hornet Is this one ready to mark "Solved?"
Is this picture pinned up for the build ? It would be nice to have this it looks very helpfull I think to new builders 🙂 😀
No, Dutch will likely incorporate an SSR schematic into the docs when he’s ready..