EVA 2.4 Klicky Tri-horn Mod

[keen patio]

Klicky printer.cfg settings

Create a new directory in mainsail or fluidd and name it klicky
Upload all config files from the klicky zip into the klicky directory

Add [include klicky/klicky-probe.cfg] to your printer.cfg

Comment out or remove your current [safe_z_home] section, The klicky cfg includes a new safe z home.

If switching from a BLtouch, remove the [bltouch] z_offset from the save_config section.

[stepper_z]
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
position_min: -15.0
position_max: 300
homing_speed: 12 ### Currently running my first homing speed at 20 ###
second_homing_speed: 5

[probe]
pin: ^PG10 ### Check your board pinout, this is an example pin ###
x_offset: -2
y_offset: 28.75
z_offset: 0
speed: 5 ### I have found it accurate on my setup running as fast as 10, at 16 the accuracy started to degrade ###
samples:1 ### Klicky is accurate enough for a single sample, the remaining lines are not needed if you run a single sample ###
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 1.0
samples_tolerance: 0.02
samples_tolerance_retries: 3

Narrow ducts on the left fit most hotends, while the default on the right fits wider hotends like the Mosquito.
High is the highest offset, Safe is a medium offset, and default is the lowest.

Print both the 30 and 45mm docks for Hydra and the 5 plus, most should be able to get away with the 30mm.
The 65mm dock is for the stock 5 pro

BOM
8x 3x6mm n52 magnets
CA glue (Super Glue)
1x D2F-5 or D2F-5L micro switches (Remove the lever if you have one with a lever)
2x m3 heatset inserts
2x M2x10 self tapping screws
2x M3x20 Socket Head Cap Screws
2x M5x10 Socket Head Cap Screws
2x M5 Roll in spring T-nuts
22-24awg wire
JST-SM or Microfit 3.0 connectors are recommended for use at the hotend

You only need to edit klicky-probe.cfg and klicky-variables.cfg
You should only have to adjust the dock location, bed size, and tool head park location.

[orchid ether]

Took me a long minute to figure out I had to remove the saved bltouch config! I got impatient and started tinkering on my own but looks like I got it all right. Thanks for taking the time to post.

[wicked vortex]

For those who needs to shave off as much free space I have made 20mm variant dock. Even shorter variant to @keen patio 's ones posted above:

[hardy stirrup]

Cant wait to get my clicky working and ditch the rattle-box CRTouch

[hardy stirrup]

Dumb question. All the magnets I'm finding are imperial dimensions... 1/4 by 1/8". Those gonna work or be too large to fit the holes in the parts as designed?

[keen patio]

They need to be the metric spec, where are you located?

[hardy stirrup]

Conus

[keen patio]

I've found plenty on amazon, ebay. Fabreeko and west3d also have them.

the later two sources will sell quality n52 magnets

[hardy stirrup]

Thanks

[hardy stirrup]

Ordered from Fabreeko after too many "didnt measure true to size" amazon reviews

[keen patio]

Yeah, hard to find quality magnets on amazon

the cheaper they are, the more out of spec it seems

[hardy stirrup]

One of the adds even shows calipers measuring them right on spec, thank goodness for the review that showed them 5% small in both dimensions. And if the dimensions are off, whats the chance they're actually n52 spec

zip-zilch-nada

[hardy stirrup]

Do we use the klicky piston thing with this? Or just the bare switch?

[keen patio]

either one works

[hardy stirrup]

Bits are together. We'll see about making it dance Sunday when the rain comes

[hardy stirrup]

It works great for me for homing and bed mesh. Screw adjust and z-tilt dont auto-attach and detach the klicky the way I expect them to reading through the macros. Any advice?

[keen patio]

Did you uncomment them in the klicky-probe.cfg file?

or what is it doing that you do not like?

[hardy stirrup]

oh crap... yeah... good thought

https://tenor.com/view/duh-sarcastic-whatever-gif-14260369

Thanks for fixing my stupid

[keen patio]

those are macros to force the dock/undock for each of those commands

[hardy stirrup]

yup. I had looked at the macros themselves but not into the main cfg to uncomment. Works great now

I had to flip the X offset sign from what was in the files in the zip above but other than that very much turnkey

[hardy stirrup]

Thinking about it more, I figure that offset was default from a front mount probe, and needed adjusted for when we pick it up from the back with this mod?

[hardy stirrup]

Thanks again for fixing my ID10T error

[torpid marlin]

I'm having some trouble with my klicky. when it's docked, it's far enough away from the magnets on the tool head to not attach - the dock is holding it down.

it doesn't look like the duct placement affects the magnets in the various ducts. Any advice?

[keen patio]

post pictures

[torpid marlin]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uk0oeCMl9kM

[keen patio]

does it lock into place if you manually attach it? magnets all line up?

almost seems like the rear magnet is pushing it away

[torpid marlin]

yep - can manually attach. with it attached, i can move the tool head over the dock and it will dock, but i can't pick it up from the dock.

all the magnets are correct. the furthest back magnet is flipped so that it doesn't try to attach to one of the front two magnets while docking/undocking.

[keen patio]

I

I'll check the gap on mine

[torpid marlin]

thanks

[torpid marlin]

i tweaked the file for the doc mount and brought the two mounting holes down 1 mm. it now docks and undocks from the tool head.

[dusky heart]

hello guys 🙂 can i see where the klicky probe for the nozzle offset goes on the bed and where is this part ?

[dusky heart]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oQYHFecsTto&t=705s&ab_channel=Kapman'sBasementWorkshop

like that ?

[dusky heart]

🧐

[torpid marlin]

I'd be happy to help. I don't understand your question though.

[dusky heart]

I want the probe for the nozzle so if I change nozzle that I won't have to do paper test or testz z=- xxx

[torpid marlin]

I think that needs klicky and sex bolt.

[dusky heart]

whats sex bolt ?

[torpid marlin]

https://kb-3d.com/store/voron/301-hartk-sexbolt-z-endstop-mod-for-voron-v2-hardware-kit-1634072159749.html

[keen patio]

it can be tricky to setup and configure for the first time

[dusky heart]

This ?

Or this is better ?

[keen patio]

should be asking in https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1019074054285692959

but read that thread first

but also get klicky working first, do not try to get both working at the same time.

[dusky heart]

Ok thx

[frozen basin]

do you plan to add UHF in future?

[keen patio]

I spent a week doing the cad for the standard ducts. Tried to copy the work into UHF and it looked like it would also take a week of cad. And I did not have a UHF setup to test with myself at the time.

I have one now, but to many other things I want to work on currently.

[frozen basin]

could you share something that could help me out creating something on my own? i was using mod previously but it doesnt fit with merc latest back plate anymore

[dusky heart]

@keen patio wich duct do you suggest to print for the HF rapido ? thanks

[remote acorn]

The configurator should include one @dusky heart

[keen patio]

High narrow is what I use

[fair sapphire]

I'm currently planning out my build, so I didn't buy anything just yet, but will this mod work on the Ender 5 Pro with Hydra?

[torpid marlin]

Looks like it - you need the 65 mm dock for the 5 Pro

[fair sapphire]

Cool. Just wanted to make sure since it seems like the sex bolt isn't compatible with the 5 pro Hydra.

[atomic hollow]

I don't think it's compatible with 275mm bed.

But 255 should fit that's what turtle has I think.

[limpid nimbus]

https://youtu.be/1-62waA2RH4

Klicky Tri-Horn be clickin' ... for now, I had to weaken the dock attachment magnet with a layer of tape so the toolhead could overpower the dock enough to grab it. I think that's a friction/fit issue with my dock. Want to reprint a smaller dock anyway after I replace those aluminum z brackets. Here's the accuracy test:

probe accuracy results: maximum 14.955000, minimum 14.948750, range 0.006250, average 14.952250, median 14.952500, standard deviation 0.001750

[keen patio]

Very nice, did my writeup help with the config side of things?

[limpid nimbus]

Embarrassed to say I didn't know there was a writeup... I pulled the macros and readme from the Klicky github so waded through that to get things going. Things I remember pausing to think about the most... I was converting from a BLTOUCH, so obviously needed to take that out, but then understanding that the [PROBE] was the loose equivalent for a Klicky, and that I could leave the virtual-z-endstop-thing in place on the Z axis. I think I originally tried a negative Y value for picking up the probe (since the tool head was moving back), but trial and error sorted that.

[keen patio]

its at the top of this thread lol

[limpid nimbus]

Yeah, that would have been spot on... it's been so many weeks since I printed the parts I kinda forgot where they came from.

[keen patio]

lol

The first time setting it all up, took be a bit to wrap my head around it all

so I did my best to simplify the steps needed

[limpid nimbus]

Sorted my issue with Klicky not wanting to come out of the dock easy enough... The latest revision of the dock has the dock magnet inserted from the back such that some plastic gets between it and Klickys magnet... So a weaker connection and that resolved my issue. I had an older revision that let the dock mag and Klickys mag have full on direct contact.

[potent basalt]

Hello, did someone had the issue with klicky and "variable" z offset? When i setup z offset to be perfect and then start a print, it sometimes ends up scratching bed plate. If i restart the print and home again it will be too high then... im not really sure where the issue could be because when i checked probe repeatability everything looked fine...

[graceful sluice]

If I'm doing this on a E5pro with a 255mm hydra bed, is there a recommended dock size to use or should I just print and try all 3?

[remote acorn]

I went with the smallest

[graceful sluice]

thanks!

[humble zenith]

After printing the short dock and the medium it does look like I need the longer one for the stock setup. @remote acorn Looking at your screen shot, you must have hydra on that. The shortest hits the z rail printed part, and the medium is perfect in y when it homes but the klicky macro screams at you if it cannot go further forward in y to park and release it. With the longest I should be able to have the Y go forward 10-20 mm to park it in place. Should hopefully know later tonight.

Also, with the E5 it homes at max x and y which by default is set to 220 as max travel. I increased it to 280 as the homing position so I can reach where the dock is at but I am thinking I may need to apply another offset in the slicer so that it doest start the print at 280 in x since that will be off the bed. It is new to me so I am not 100% that is the correct way to configure it but it seems right.

[keen patio]

@humble zenith That is how I had it it mounted before Hydra

and that was with 300 rails as well, even more room with the 330 rails from Fabreeko

[humble zenith]

Okay so long extender. Is it not an issue to remove the l brackets on the corners?

If looks like they help with rigidity/alignment

[keen patio]

also if you place it past the edge of the bed, you can set a position_min of -20 or something

I used some other corner braces on the frame, you can see them in the upper right

[humble zenith]

I think most of my issue is I have not done this other than one other time and it has been a like half a year. I just dont remember how I configured it all.

[humble zenith]

Ahh, nice yeah the aluminum elbow brackets.

It seems like it will fit without but it takes a little force to get the extender in.

[keen patio]

I should have done a better job documenting my setup before Hydra

[remote acorn]

Oh shoot, I didn't even think about this

[humble zenith]

Long should be perfect I just need to figure out how to configure the lcoation.

[remote acorn]

I modified my bed setup over a year ago lol

[humble zenith]

Not sure if it is that it homes at max that is causing it to be weird but when I plug the coordinates in it doesnt seem to behaving and go to where I would think.

[remote acorn]

I use the dashboard to home X and Y, then I use the controls to manipulate it to the correct position for pickup, I write that down

[humble zenith]

haha after I installed the short one I looked at your image and thought "yeah thats different"

I thought I had done that but am going to restart.

[remote acorn]

Are you available for a quick call or not right now?

I won't stay on long since 3am 😛

[humble zenith]

I just put the chili on and my in-laws are visiting haha. I appreciate it. If I am not able to get it I will definitely be up for a call tomorrow when you are free 🙂

[remote acorn]

Alright, I'd advise to figure out the x and y 0 positions first

[humble zenith]

Yeah, I just attached it and it seems like the homing behavior is correct so it is just the pickup and drop off that I need to tweak.

[remote acorn]

How I do it: I set max to like 300x300

Then home X and Y, move the nozzle to the front left corner

Lets say in the dashboard it says:

x position 35 and Y position 22 you take those of your 300x300
Your new max would be 265x278

That's how I figure out my max position and 0 position

[humble zenith]

So I threw the probe on the magnets and based on home being 280x and 220y (I made the x this value so that it could reach where the dock is). Moved the magnet probe attached to the toolhead until it was perfectly aligned and docked it. This is at 11x and 200y based on the manual travel. When I enter that value x and y home then the tool head moved maybe 80mm left and tries to go beyond the frame in y.

[keen patio]

Looks like it might be skipping steps due to travel speed?

[humble zenith]

Wow haha, I completely missed the default travel speed was 400mm/s

[keen patio]

you could try changing the undock y to 20

maybe the stock board doesnt like 400, might need to drop it to 150 with the stock board

[humble zenith]

If you where here I would give you a big hug haha

https://tenor.com/view/slow-motion-legend-walking-suit-handsome-gif-17432016

My biggest error was not that I was inputting values wrong, it was that the default speed of 400mm/s was to fast.

It was happening so quick that to me it seemed like it was just going to the wrong coordinates and I assumed it was an error on location configuration. Not that it was skipping steps.

I wonder how long that would have taken me to realize had you not called it out.

Thank you

[keen patio]

For most, 400 isnt an issue. But most also do not run klicky on the stock board

[humble zenith]

Yeah, will be interesting to see how it handles when I add the M8P. Still not out of the weeds totally. Getting probe not detected every few grabs. One of the magnets is at an angle so going to file it down and see if that helps.

[daring parcel]

Hi guys, I’ve been able to set up mi klicky, it home and it does the z-tilt, but I’m not able to do a bed mesh

When I try to do a mesh, it attach the probe and then it try to probe in front of the dock location

[open ocean]

Looks like it’s trying to go out of bounds. Is -20 configured in your Y axis endstop_min? Is it within bounds of the frame?
If not you’ll have to tweak your mesh_min and mesh_max under the bed_mesh section to make sure it probes within the boundaries of the print area. https://www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Mesh.html

[keen patio]

Need to adjust the bed mesh to account for the probe offsets

I still get confused as to how to offset the values, and often just take my y offset and adjust both min/max y to offset in 5mm or so greater than my y probe offset. Same with X

For a 235 bed, I might start with something like this
Bed max 10,35
Bed max 220,190
And probe a 3x3 grid, as you are using this just to dial in the boundry, then adjust the values after running it, test again. Repeat until you are happy with the area is it probing.

[daring parcel]

I try, ty

[daring parcel]

Nope

[keen patio]

I also need to write up a guide in setting xy limits

I set the endstops at the end of the rails on the back and right of the printer. Then set position_max and position_endstop to be the same, but set their values to place the nozzle at the front left corner of the bed when the printer is at 0,0

well not quiet the corner, I offset it 2mm or so inside the edges, since you do not want to print on the edge

[daring parcel]

It’s still trying to probe in front of the dock

[keen patio]

post your probe section and bed mesh section

[keen patio]

and picture of your setup

also your variable bed max is wrong

you have 10.35 and 220,190 for the other

should just be 220 and 190

or the other way around

[keen patio]

what printer, and what size bed?

looks like a 5 plus, but those numbers are more like a 5 pro range

[daring parcel]

It’s a 5pro with dual z flipped 90°

[keen patio]

ahh okay

[daring parcel]

Like this ?

[keen patio]

yes, if those are your max print limits in x and y

[keen patio]

can you home the printer then send the tool head to xy 0,0

and take a picture

[daring parcel]

Yes

[keen patio]

from a lower angle so I can see the nozzle?

looks to far left

[keen patio]

actually lets do this, move your nozzle to be over this point using mainsail

then tell me what the xy positions are in that location

we need to fix your endstop settings 🙂

can leave the klicky dock where it is, we will set it up to travel past zero

[daring parcel]

X24 y30

[keen patio]

Stepper_x
position_endstop: 231
position_max: 231
position_min: -24

stepper_y
position_endstop: 225
position_max: 225

variable_docklocation_X -23
variable dock y 195

lets start with that, and see if it still docks

[daring parcel]

Ok ty

It miss the probe by a little

Ok, with variable_docklocation_x 24 it attach and dock the probe correctly

[keen patio]

okay, let me look at bed mesh again now

[daring parcel]

Ok ty man

[keen patio]

bed mesh should be good to test

[daring parcel]

It still try to probe in front of the dock

Let me try to shoot a video

[keen patio]

when you send the tool head to x0 y0 is it now over the bed?

rather than way off to the side

[daring parcel]

Yes

[keen patio]

any reason you have different values here?

[daring parcel]

Yes, I’m not using the trihorn mount

[keen patio]

ahh okay

I would need your config files, might need to compare to mine after work

[daring parcel]

Ok ty, i copy paste them here ?

[keen patio]

lets start a thread over in #1006498377938255922

[daring parcel]

Ok, ty

It requires a tag, i can’t create the thread

[keen patio]

just use one of the tags?

firmware would work

[daring parcel]

Ok ty

[hybrid briar]

the two 2 m2x10self tapping screws to the switch for the klicky, what sort of head should they have?

[keen patio]

I used socket cap hex heads, but cannot recall the size I used...

they were either m2 or m2.5

might have been longer as well? they worked

I think any head style works though

[copper coyote]

@keen patio a little help please, which one would be the best for the mosquito?

[keen patio]

You would want the wider duct, I would start with the high and test fit it before installing magnets

default is wider

[copper coyote]

thanks, I cant remember which one I have now 😅

need to save the files somewhere

[keen patio]

I have a image showing all the sizes with the narrow/fault lists and height names

I am also testing a variation that merges the duct into the bottom plate. Its a little more work to install it, but makes the duct far more rigid. The bolts holding my duct on kept coming loose inside my enclosure... I need to verify it doesnt break anything in cad when I change the configurations after I do a little more testing with it.

it does require removing the hotend to install/replace.

[copper coyote]

I'm quite happy with it split though

[keen patio]

this would be optional for those who want it 🙂

[copper coyote]

did you try loctite or whatever? that specific one for screws

[keen patio]

the old version would not go away

[copper coyote]

had some that were coming loose and it fixed the issue

[keen patio]

I do have some vibratite in my amazon cart that I want to try, just been to cheap to buy it... $30 for a little bottle

but its a sticky coating for threads that prevents them from vibrating loose. Designed to be removed and installed multiple times without any issues

[copper coyote]

same kind of thing that I mentioned

[torpid marlin]

Any chance to incorporate a klickyng?

I've magnets fall out of mine several times so far.

[keen patio]

zero space for it

[dull chasm]

is this the right orientation for the probe or am i to flip it 180?

[open ocean]

I put a tiny bit of super glue on my magnets and pressed them in after having several magnets come off. Haven’t had any issues since 🙂

[torpid marlin]

Flip it 90 so that the flat side (with the dock magnet) is down.

[torpid marlin]

I super glue my magnets in too, but with the 50-60* enclosure temperatures I print at, the magnets still fall out from time to time.

I will probably investigate a high temperature glue when I need it next.

[dull chasm]

Thanks!

[white eagle]

@keen patio how are you routing the wires for this? out the front and to the side or somewhere else?

[keen patio]

The side

That's my old one that I just replaced last week

[white eagle]

ahh... need to be twisted?

[keen patio]

No, I just find twisting them keeps it neater

[white eagle]

...i was going to sleeve them with the fan wires and hotend wires..but I am not totally sure that is a good idea

I think I need to shave the sides of the mount, that mounts to the frame down to fit between the corner bracket and the "cheater" extrusion on the 5 pro

[white eagle]

@keen patio is the back extrusion different lengths? That part seems too wide for my spot

[keen patio]

you might need different corner braces

that do not go in that spot

I put corner braces under the Y and rear X extrusions, into the back corner upright

[mystic glen]

Is there a rapido uhf duct for klicky?

[keen patio]

no, I spent a good week just working on getting it to work with the standard duct options. And I have not had the desire to setup UHF on my rapido as I am not even maxing out flow on my HF setup.

[white eagle]

Before I break something, I want to make sure I have my steps in order...

1. make sure klicky docks etc
2. PROBE_CALIBRATE ... Remove klicky, get to paper to nozzle
3. BED_MESH_CALIBRATE
4. cast filament remnates to the 3d printer gods
5. should work without smashing?

@keen patio

[keen patio]

sounds like a plan to me

[wanton thorn]

casually while driving 😂

[dusky heart]

Nah this time the boss was driving 🙂

[vocal valley]

I can't figure out why I have such a large gap from the trihorn to the docked klicky probe. Did I do something dumb here?

[keen patio]

Going to make an update to change it to use M3 bolts with small slots to adjust for any height issues like that. I have it setup for the short dock now, but I need to push the update to the other sizes as well.

[vocal valley]

OK. Adjustability solves it but curious why it would be different from printer to printer. All the offsets should be the same from Merc to Merc, no?

[keen patio]

I am not sure, I did run into issues on my 5 plus rebuild. And saw others also have had problems with the height. So I looked into making them adjustable after that. But also juggling 20 other side projects at the same time.

[vocal valley]

I just wanted a sanity check that I wasn't using AB parts when there was a different EVA part, etc. I could see a height difference between toolheads

[keen patio]

I'll try to push this up on my todo list. I do have a couple other cad projects I want to clean up this weekend before I work on that.

[vocal valley]

Don't rush on my account. I'll need to rig something back up because I went headlong into a z-probe change and have only virtual so can't easily printa new one anyway 😄

might have to put bltouch back or just hack something else in the short term

[keen patio]

Could file the back flat, and file the holes to allow you to slide it up

Or maybe use some m4 bolts/washers?

[vocal valley]

yep. I just didn't want to insult your good work by telling you i was going to perform a nasty hack 🙂

m4. will test that in sec

[vocal valley]

Even with M3's I was only able to pull the dock up about 1.5 mm and it's still not close enough

Going to drill new holes for M3's instead

[keen patio]

that will work

[vocal valley]

I had to add some huge washers between the dock mount and frame because after shifting up with my new holes the bottom of the dock mount would start to pull into the v-slot. So extremely janky dock mount but I'm klicking! Thank you very much for the great work on this mod. Especially with the configuration help. I had to fumble through a few cooridnate issues but I can only imagine how much longer this would have taken starting from scratch.

It is incredibly satisfying to dock and undock.

[fleet zinc]

Well I'm printing all the bits for a klicky, then while checking the prints first layer look up and realise that my led strip is on the extrusion the klicky mounts to. 🤣🤣🤣

[torpid marlin]

Mine also had a large gap that kept klicky from attaching. I modified the dock file to make it work.

Mine is 5+ btw.

[carmine frigate]

@keen patio Any chance of creating tri-horn ducts for the Klicky for the EVA 3.0? If not I will take a stab at the CAD creation if you would be willing to share your 2.4 duct files with me so I can copy the design elements needed for the wiring/klicky mount. Thanks!

[keen patio]

I had no interest in doing klicky for 3.0 since they said in the release video that they were already working on duct changes, which would require updating the klicky stuff again

and it took over a week to iron out the settings to work with 2.4 and all of the configuration settings

and what I did wouldnt transfer to 3.0 at all really, is a very different duct setup. Only thing that would transfer is the magnet pockets. Which I just modeled based off the original klicky files

[carmine frigate]

Copy that...I will see what I can come up with...understanding of course that changes are likely coming.

[remote acorn]

Lets keep this thread for the Eva 2.4 tri-horn setup (might confuse people)

You could make a thread in the #1007998760967737364 section with your mod for eva 3

[carmine frigate]

Will do!

[true token]

Is this update around already?

[lean inlet]

So how do you guys setup the safe homing to go and pickup the probe first? mechanically I can do everything, but if I press home all, after x and y it does all upside down, if the probe is already attached it docks it and stops with an error, if the probe is not attached it doesn't go to pick it up and it stops with an error. Instead, I have to home x and y separately, than use the macros: probe pickup, probe lock, home z, tilt/mesh and than dock the pobe with the macro as well

[keen patio]

post your klicky-probe.cf file

[lean inlet]

#[include ./klicky-specific.cfg]                #place to put other configurations specific to your printer
[include ./klicky-variables.cfg]                #Requires
[include ./klicky-macros.cfg]                   #Required
[include ./klicky-bed-mesh-calibrate.cfg]      #bed mesh, requires klipper configuration
#[include ./klicky-screws-tilt-calculate.cfg]   #help adjust bed screws automatically
#[include ./klicky-quad-gantry-level.cfg]       #level 4 Z motors
[include ./klicky-z-tilt-adjust.cfg]           #level 2 or 3 Z motors```

[keen patio]

err klicky-variables

[lean inlet]

https://github.com/ffavero/MercuryOne/blob/main/klicky/klicky-variables.cfg

hmm, maybe it's again the travel speed. It basically ignores/shorten the movements when the speed is too high

hmm, maybe it's again the travel speed. It basically ignores/shorten the movements when the speed is too high

[keen patio]

and you removed safe home from your printer.cfg?

[lean inlet]

yess

[keen patio]

if I hit home all, it homes x, y, then grabs the probe and homes z

what does your z section look like

in pritner cfg

[lean inlet]

## Hydra triple Z. Z Z1 Z2

##  e3v2 MCU - In Z Position
##  Z Stepper - Front Right
[stepper_z]
step_pin: e3v2:PB0
dir_pin: !e3v2:PC5
enable_pin: !e3v2:PB1
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 4
endstop_pin: probe: z_virtual_endstop
position_min: -15.0
position_max: 250
homing_speed: 12 ### Currently running my first homing speed at 20 ###
second_homing_speed: 5

[tmc2209 stepper_z]
uart_pin: e3v2:PC11
tx_pin: e3v2:PC10
uart_address: 1
run_current: 0.580
stealthchop_threshold: 999999

##  e3v2 MCU - In X Position
##  Z Stepper - Back
[stepper_z1]
step_pin: e3v2:PB13
dir_pin: !e3v2:PB12
enable_pin: !e3v2:PB14
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 4

[tmc2209 stepper_z1]
uart_pin: e3v2:PC11
tx_pin: e3v2:PC10
uart_address: 0
run_current: 0.580
stealthchop_threshold: 999999

##  e3v2 MCU - In Y Position
##  Z Stepper - Front Left
[stepper_z2]
step_pin: e3v2:PB10
dir_pin: !e3v2:PB2
enable_pin: !e3v2:PB11
microsteps: 16
rotation_distance: 4

[tmc2209 stepper_z2]
uart_pin: e3v2:PC11
tx_pin: e3v2:PC10
uart_address: 2
run_current: 0.580
stealthchop_threshold: 999999```

Z it works fine, I'm able to mesh and tilt successfully

apparently, after I home Z, if I call z tilt it goes and attach the probe first

[lean inlet]

I haven’t setup park location, maybe it’s that?

I left it to False. I’m not sure why it should matter though

[lean inlet]

nope, the only thing that makes a difference is if I invert the probe pins, so it undocks it before homing z, but than nothing works because I can't use the macro to pickup the probe ... my point is, that klickly is definitely integrated in the homing procedure. I suspect it thinks the probe is already attached when it starts, so it doesn't go and pick it up

I have this log files when trying home all bash Z not homed, forcing full G28 Homing X Homing Y Homing Z probe: TRIGGERED toolhead: max_velocity: 600.000000 max_accel: 1000.000000 max_accel_to_decel: 1500.000000 square_corner_velocity: 5.000000 SET_KINEMATIC_POSITION pos=0.000,0.000,0.000 Stepper stepper_x phase change (was 62 now 46) Stepper stepper_x phase change (was 46 now 50) Stepper stepper_x phase change (was 50 now 61) Stepper stepper_x phase change (was 61 now 62) Probe already docked toolhead: max_velocity: 600.000000 max_accel: 1000.000000 max_accel_to_decel: 1500.000000 square_corner_velocity: 5.000000 probe: TRIGGERED toolhead: max_velocity: 600.000000 max_accel: 3000.000000 max_accel_to_decel: 1500.000000 square_corner_velocity: 5.000000 toolhead: max_velocity: 600.000000 max_accel: 3000.000000 max_accel_to_decel: 1500.000000 square_corner_velocity: 5.000000 toolhead: max_velocity: 600.000000 max_accel: 1000.000000 max_accel_to_decel: 1500.000000 square_corner_velocity: 5.000000 Endstop z still triggered after retract Endstop z still triggered after retract Endstop z still triggered after retract

the klicky probe is not attached

[keen patio]

Did you check the endstop condition in mainsail/fluidd?

[lean inlet]

is that normal?

of course is triggered, but I mean should I have both a probe and an endstop?

bingo!!

I had ```yaml

endstop_pin: probe: z_virtual_endstop```

instead of yaml endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop

[keen patio]

the space broke it? lol

[lean inlet]

yep

bltouch worked fine with it

[soft tide]

I blame YAML. It's horrible.

[lean inlet]

don’t want to start a flame, but I rather prefer yaml than json 😅

[soft tide]

JSON is great for computers to talk with each other, but also shit for humans

But this is all way off topic lol

[copper coyote]

@soft tide JSON>YAML

[wicked stump]

It heard you talking about it

[golden ether]

So apparently magnets I bought few months ago for another project are the same size. Anyone know if these will work? I have about 190 left hahaha

They feel strong but not sure compared to n52

[keen patio]

worth trying

[copper coyote]

gridfinity?

[true token]

@keen patio These are the right offset values right?

Also is it for every hotend the same or is this differend for every hotend?

[keen patio]

should be, but you can verify it with the klipper probe offset routine

[true token]

uhm how?

https://www.klipper3d.org/Probe_Calibrate.html this?

[true token]

Uhm @keen patio, when you home x and y does it go to 0 or your _max value?

My thought process, Maybe I need x: 2 and Y -28.75?

My x goes to the x_max value when im homing

[keen patio]

did you check using the klipper docs?

[true token]

not yet, printer is still printing

so cant do it yet

[true token]

But do you know this?

like when it hits the switch, does it set 0 or x/y_max value?

[keen patio]

front left is zero zero, that is all that matters

[true token]

yeah mine does that too so this cant be it...

will check the offset of x and y as soon as I can

[lean inlet]

I recently calibrated it from scratch and got this ```yaml

[probe]
x_offset: -2.5
y_offset: 29```
Probably @keen patio measure are more accurate. The issue is to put a sign where the klicky probe actual hits the bed (I think I got the pin of the probe, but I might have been off)

[lean inlet]

I wonder if there is a recommended z offset instead, I have a rapido and the offset is still not perfect, around 9.5~9.6

[wicked stump]

If I have a pro with 330mm rails do I still use the 65mm dock?

[lean inlet]

I have 300 mm rails (moved a little on the back) and I use the 30mm dock

[lean inlet]

but it just occurred to me that I use hydra, you should check if the travel of the toolhead is unobstructed once you home X and Y, going straight to the left it shouldn’t bump into the drop brackets

[wicked stump]

ill have to check and make sure it clears with klicky on. i have the mercury rod brackets so theres the extra clearance from that

[wicked stump]

Think I might have to do some sanding. Maybe my bridges sagged and my magnets should be deeper but my dock is too close

[wicked stump]

was able to get it working by loosening the mount screws and then putting something on each side to stop it from sliding (i used a twist in cable clip). in case that helps anyone else

[true token]

Can I maybe have that file? I have the same issue

[torpid marlin]

I'll send once I'm home.

[true token]

thanks!

[torpid marlin]

I think this is it.

[true token]

Thanks!

[true token]

Do you also have a file for the longer dock?

I dont think I can get away with the 30 mm one

[torpid marlin]

no - i only modified the one that i used.

[true token]

oh okay, how did you modify it? just made the holes in the back 1 mm higher?

[torpid marlin]

i moved them down 1mm (which moved the dock up 1 mm).

cant remember if anything else needed to be done.

[true token]

For some reason I need it to scale to 10% in the slicer since its otherwise too big

But I think I did it

[copper coyote]

small issue here, it touches the bed before the nozzle

and this is the high duct

and now I can't print because this is my only printer 😅

alright found the issue, the wire was tilting it

[wide patio]

The three magnets have the same polarity. I saw a video that the one on the back had the polarity changed. Thank you.

[torpid marlin]

If you flip the rear magnet, it will prevent it from attaching to the toolhead incorrectly.

[copper coyote]

what is the HSI size for these?

[torpid marlin]

What is hsi?

[copper coyote]

heat set insert

[torpid marlin]

That's what I was thinking - thanks for confirming.

This uses the standard size that the rest of the Merc/voron parts use.

[copper coyote]

ok the 5mm one

need to adjust for 4.6mm

[copper coyote]

same spacing issue

4mm

[carmine frigate]

I don't want to be a Klicky killer, but I have installed a Beacon and it is amazing. 900 point scan done two times (1800 points) in less than a minute on a 370X370 mesh. Also the mount was a breeze to CAD up. Don't mind the poor mesh here, this is just testing.

[true token]

Yeahh I will go with beacon somewhere next month I think

Really like what im seeing but its pretty expensive compared to an klicky probe or something similar

[graceful sluice]

is there a way to still do auto z with beacon?

[true token]

Nope

That one of the few downsides

But in theory it isnt neccesary

It might be even possible to use klicky or quickdraw AND beacon but then only use QD or klicky for auto z🤷‍♂️

[wicked stump]

Is the klicky probe itself modded from the original version? Like just the part with the microswitch that attaches/detaches.

[true token]

Nope thats just stock iirc

[wicked stump]

Okay thanks

[solid hawk]

Looking for a little help, think I have been looking at to many cfg files today. I have klicky installed and everything sees to be working until I get to bed mesh. I started getting this error "horizontal_move_z can't be less than probe's z_offset" so I changed my mesh horizonal move_z to higher then my probe offset (10.050) but then I start getting "Move out of range: 2.000 -23.750 10.050 [0.000]". What am I missing?

[copper coyote]

your mesh start is 0 0 right

it will try to move the probe into that coordinate but it can't

(assuming your probe offset is -2 23.75) as it's similar to mine

bed mesh start needs adjustment to something around 0 23.75

[solid hawk]

Yep, way to many config changes today, forgot to update mesh starting points. Thanks.

[wicked stump]

so if the klicky probe itself is unmodified from the original klicky, it seems there has been an update since this version was posted. i downloaded the latest version off their github and its a smidge different and the microswitch leg holes came out way better for me. with the one in the pinned folder i had to poke through them with a hot needle. so if anyone is having issues with hole clearance try the one on the klicky github. also the klicky github recommends it be printed on its side with the arrow pointing north (or positive Z i guess? lol) so theres something to try also if you have issues with sagging bridges over the magnet slots

[open ocean]

Is there a way to Mount this onto the Eva 2.4 ? @carmine frigate

[keen patio]

Please do not post stuff not related to my mod in here.

[carmine frigate]

Understood - deleted

[keen patio]

updated klicky dock, uses m3x8 screws in place of the m5's. Adjustable up and down a bit. Also added hex driver clearance through the front.

[rustic turtle]

that was my biggest gtipe with previous one... hard to mount to the frame...

[wicked stump]

much nicer than my previous solution of just subtracting two cylinders from it using MS 3d builder lol. looks great

[copper coyote]

I like it, I'll test it out and see if it works with the regular klicky dock, I had to print a modified one to be higher

[astral summit]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBMROKC/ref=sw_img_1?smid=A30WUG2ZDGM0XM&psc=1 will these self tappers work?

and is it best to go with a omron D2F-5 switch rather than knockoffs?

[copper coyote]

those to attach the switch? m2 seems too much

but I'm not sure

[astral summit]

thats what BOM calls for

[keen patio]

I have used m2 and m2.5 self tapping screws on mine

[copper coyote]

I stand corrected then

[keen patio]

test update on the ducts... Intergraded the bottom plate with the duct, and changed the names to reflect the nozzle height offset and duct opening widths. First number is the width, second is the height of the ducts from the bed/nozzle tip.

[lean inlet]

I was thinking if any of this ducts supports volcano eg the rapido UHF?

[keen patio]

looked into it early on, and everything broke when I tried to change it for those offsets. So I gave up since I do not use either myself.

[fierce elm]

I'll get this printed later on today 🙂

[fierce elm]

which size is the most suited for an nf crazy?

[keen patio]

dunno, I just like to see about 2mm under the ducts if the nozzle is touching the bed

to low, and I had issues with the ducts hitting prints that lifted/warped in the past

Before canbus, I used JST-SM connectors on my klicky ducts. So I could swap them out or replace if I needed to for any reason.

with canbus its less of an issue.

[fierce elm]

Looks like I was using the TriHorn_Duct_Default_Default_HS file last time

ok

24-3 looks closest to that model 🙂

[keen patio]

that would be the same offsets

I decided to move away from confusing names, to just using offset values measured off the ducts

[vocal valley]

Printed and installed the new frame dock. It worked great for me and resolved my gap issue with the previous version I tried. I do have it positioned high to the point that the bottom just barely grabs the bottom of the extrusion. A little more meat here would make it easier to setup but definitely workable as is.

The previous 65 mm dock was a bit longer than I needed. The 45 mm on stock Z Pro worked for me but just barely. I have my max Y/endstop at 235 and that is also my dock Y.

[wicked stump]

if anyone is wondering, if you have 330 rails on your E5pro you can use the 30mm mount without moving any rails

[vocal valley]

E5 Pro Hydra or stock Z? I could not reach 30 mm dock with stock Z setup. I have my Y endstop set to avoid collision with the Z axis assembly and drop brackets for the linear rods

[wicked stump]

Sorry should've mentioned stock. Yeah it seems like a perfect fit with the 330mm rails. I have it above the z screw and I just put my Y endstop so the dock was at max Y. @vocal valley

[copper coyote]

even with z drop I'm not sure if the 30mm one fits

[wicked stump]

Idk it fit on mine. I had my Y0 set like 5mmish from the front of the bed if that matters. Also using the latest files for the other parts from klicky GitHub like the rest of the dock and the klicky itself, again idk if it matters because it fit before I did that. But if you end up only a couple mm short and don't want to use the next size up you could use the 2mm klicky dock spacer on their GitHub and scale it. Oh and I'm using the normal narrow duct, also don't know if that matters

[desert sedge]

Does this work also with ng/unklicky? Not sure how intercompatible all those systems are

[keen patio]

Not with ng

But unklicky works

Do not have the space for ng

[desert sedge]

So regular klicky/unklicky, thanks

Which is easier to build and setup? I'll do it during Easter break but I don't really have much time lately

[keen patio]

I have only built the standard klicky myself

Unklicky sounds like it's easy after you build one. But the documentation on it is a little confusing.

[desert sedge]

I'll try klicky and if there's issues with it maybe unklicky, I just need it to be better than bltouch, it gives me sooo many headaches

[copper coyote]

as someone who moved to klicky from bltouch

it's great

[uncut glacier]

before the conversion i always wondered why people go klicky when they already got a bl/cr touch. now i know after printing for 2 days. my cr touch vibrates horribly loud at slower speeds 😅. even my neighbors complained from it lol.

[copper coyote]

I just got tired if the sound and wanted to do auto z offset

[soft tide]

The click-slap from the magnets attaching and detaching still make me double check I didn't crack a part but I'm loving the klicky so far

[golden ether]

Klicky sometimes thuds and not clicks is that a speed setting or bad switch?

[copper coyote]

how fast are you moving

[keen patio]

What do you mean Thuds? When it docks and undocks?

Docking location and dock height affect how smooth it docks and undocks

[astral summit]

what dock should I go with for ender 5 plus hydra dragon HF

45mm?

nvm found it in pinned

30mm i suppose

[open ocean]

i printed them all lol.

[golden ether]

Started at 5 now at 10 less thud more click

[golden ether]

During actual klicky process. Touchdown on bed. Sines times a click like normal sometimes a thud I see the switch going in but no click and I notice the results are different compared to always clicking

I wanna print a new dock and install a new switch. Thinking I have a bad switch. It was a factory switch soldered to a board. I think the heat from removing from board may have messed it up

[copper coyote]

most likely does not sound like its good

[golden ether]

If I click with my finger a few times it clicks every time. And if I do probe accuracy a few times it’s all the same IF it clicks every time

[keen patio]

You can always run unklicky

[golden ether]

Na I like klicky. Just think I have a bad switch.

[keen patio]

Unklicky is a klicky mod that doesn't use a switch

Can be more reliable

[golden ether]

There’s just something about the CLICK But I’ll look into unklicky

[golden ether]

Is my probe accurate enough? These are after four probe accuracy runs 0.002408,0.003068,0.002964,0.001127 overall 0.00239175

[copper coyote]

so that's a maximum of 0.003mm

my bad 0.002

deviations

completely irrelevant IMO for what it is

[golden ether]

Yup that’s what I figured. So why the different Z offsets? We’re talking like -/+ 0.050 each print. Swings both ways so doesn’t explain heat expansion messing with it

5x5 bed mesh is 0.125 over 255,255

[copper coyote]

mine is similar and its the stock one

[golden ether]

I just 5x5 before a print and offset was perfect 🤔

[astral summit]

my Z tilt adjust wont work with the rename _Z_TILT_ADJUST line in the cfg

If i comment it out it goes to attach probe, says unknown command _Z_TILT_ADJUST and then docks probe

if I get rid of the _ in front of Z, it says its running recursively

nvm got it

[boreal sluice]

I’m running unklicky, the pin doesn’t seem to push in at all when probing it’s crazy. I want to remake it with Single strand wire to make it better. Just remember if you go unklicky you need to do a probe check with 2000 odd probes to wear it in.

[wicked stump]

I missed that instruction lol maybe I'll build a new one and try to wear it in. I abandoned my unklicky because it was giving me like .025 standard deviation vs my klicky's less than .006

[desert sedge]

Did I do something wrong? It doesn't fit 😕

I have some smaller angle brackets I could use with tnuts, just not sure if it's needed

Or I could also use a Dremel

[soft tide]

Ah you're hitting what i hit. I think most put it on the smaller extrusion to the right, near the lead screw

I took the corner joint off and used a smaller one. It's just using t-nuts though

[copper coyote]

mine is to the left of the lead screw

but that gave me an idea, might make it thinner to put there

[desert sedge]

Oh, if it fits I'll do this, thanks!

[desert sedge]

That'd work but I'd rather trim the piece a bit than reduce stiffness

[soft tide]

Agreed. It's not permanent for sure

[keen patio]

I switched my corner brackets early on in my build

[desert sedge]

Trimmed this much and it now fits perfectly

[keen patio]

I would not mount it on the side you home to, it becomes to easy to grab it during homing XY, or when a print finishes and goes back to that corner.

I tried it on that side, it is better on the other side.

[desert sedge]

Oh, ok, I haven't setup the macros yet

[desert sedge]

Am I just dumb or it's written poorly? Why does it want to bring me to y -30 to dock?

[desert sedge]

Ok, maybe I have to fix the fact that it hits the back supports first if I set up the precise dock location

[keen patio]

Y move should be positive, you can increase it if needed

and x is the distance to undock it

if you have it on the left side, you will want a positive value

10 is the smallest amount that can work

you can increase the y value, I use 30. But you could increase that to 50

[desert sedge]

I think the problem is that I have to cheat a bit because the toolhead hits the back supports if I set it to move directly to 250; -10 and gets misaligned

[keen patio]

picture of the issue?

[desert sedge]

Post homing the carriage moves straight left and the back of the duct hits on the supports and gets gets misaligned

It's out of the printing bed so I thought moving to 250 0 or 10 and then back would work but apparently it doesn't

The position where the probe reliably attache to the toolhead is 250 -10

[keen patio]

so is your y endstop at 250?

as well as y position max

[desert sedge]

No, y endstop is 0 and x is -14

[keen patio]

well that sounds like a problem

front left of your printer should be 0,0

so you set your x and y endstops at the distance from the front left corner

[desert sedge]

What

[keen patio]

as well as position_max

[desert sedge]

I only had this printer with 0,0 in right back

[keen patio]

that is what mine looks like

[desert sedge]

Ok, that might be part of the issue then

[keen patio]

having zero zero in the back either makes all your settings have to be in negative space, or makes your parts mirrored

but can cause a lot of confusion on settings

you will probably need to reverse stepper direction on x and y

[desert sedge]

Ok, your physical endstops are still right and back? So it's just config changes?

[keen patio]

yup

[desert sedge]

That explains why I always had to change the bltouch offsets and stuff to negative

[keen patio]

this is how you would set the x value for endstop position and position max

then you can include a position min, to travel past the left edge of the bed

[desert sedge]

Ok, this assumes the nozzle on the edge of the bed? I'll move the rail and try again, thank you!

[keen patio]

I set mine just inside the bed

since I do not want to print on the very edge, so I set mine in about 2mm

to find the values you can either set a smaller safe value and move to 0, measure how much further you want to move

or set it to something like 260, and slowly jog it to where you want

then note the positions in klipper, and adjust

[desert sedge]

Perfect, thanks again, I'll play with it a bit to find the actual values

[honest onyx]

Is there any similar information out there for the plus on setting endstop positions?

[desert sedge]

It all works perfectly now, how fast do you all probe z/meshes with klicky?

[copper coyote]

z speed?

or xy

[desert sedge]

Both, I'm used to the slow speeds of the bltouch

[copper coyote]

right now 100 for xy 25 for z

[vagrant terrace]

just a quick one. i installed all and for the first homing its working fine. but when he put it back it just moves a bit in front and dont start to go in the middle

[prisma solar]

That is the settings here under klicky-variables.cfg:

[vagrant terrace]

this is attach and disattach

thats working

but if he is done the postiion is

[prisma solar]

Yup. That is the dockmove variables.

[vagrant terrace]

he is taking the klicky goes for homing

put it back and stay in this poistion

its not attached anymore

ok thats done

found its

[prisma solar]

I have not attempted this portion of the config but this might be what you are looking for...

[vagrant terrace]

but when i want to do the bedmesh

18:19
Move out of range: 0.000 -0.750 8.000 [0.000]
18:19
Move out of range: 0.000 -0.750 8.000 [0.000]
18:19
probe: open

[astral summit]

the dock and undock is relative motion so it is allowed to go out of bounds (I believe)

just set your y min value in printer.cfg to -2

@vagrant terrace

[vagrant terrace]

i got this running. bed mesh working fine also

[vagrant terrace]

think i doing something wrong...maybe its my start gcode

[vagrant terrace]

G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; extruder relative mode
M104 S170 ; set extruder temp for bed leveling
M140 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; set bed temp
M109 R170 ; wait for bed leveling temp
M190 S[first_layer_bed_temperature] ; wait for bed temp
G28 ; home all axis
G29 ; Bed Mesh
G1 Z10 F240
G1 X2.0 Y10 F3000
M104 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; set final nozzle temp
M109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]} ; wait for nozzle temp to stabilize
G1 Z0.28 F240
G92 E0
G1 X2.0 Y140 E10 F1500 ; prime the nozzle
G1 X2.3 Y140 F5000
G92 E0
G1 X2.3 Y10 E10 F1200 ; prime the nozzle
G92 E0

why does he not take the bedmesh he has done with the klicky ?!

[prisma solar]

Looks like you are not calling the “BED_MESH_CALIBRATE” macro in your start_print

Replace your G29 with that and try it

[vagrant terrace]

the g29 is a macro

[gcode_macro G29]
gcode: BED_MESH_CALIBRATE

[keen patio]

Klicky uses a macro

Your g29 is blocking that macro

[prisma solar]

I was just about to mention that there was a conflict lol

[empty crypt]

Where is the _Z_Tilt_Adjust supposed to be defined? I Only see references to it in the z-tilt-adjust.cfg

[astral summit]

I had this issue too, cant remember what i did to fix it

[empty crypt]

commented that out and now i can get console again - however now im getting "Endstop Z still triggered after retract"

[keen patio]

You need to add a ztilt section to your printer.cfg

[empty crypt]

Any chance you got the specs for an e5+?

[astral summit]

[z_tilt]
z_positions: 11.5, 8 #stepper_z Mini Tank
361.5, 8 #stepper_z1 Mini Tank
187.5, 362 #stepper_z2 Mini Tank
points: 349,321 #probe location Right Rear
22,321 #probe location Left Rear
22,0 #probe location Left Front
349,0 #probe location Right Front
speed: 400
horizontal_move_z: 20
retries: 2 # Number of times to retry if the probed points aren't within tolerance.
retry_tolerance:0.02

[astral summit]

this is mine for klicky e5+

[round prairie]

Been trying to get klicky to work. I've added the probe section like in the pin and changed the pin value in the [probe] section to my correct value. But when I restart the firmware I get the error "Option 'pin' is not valid in section 'probe'". Any ideas?

[prisma solar]

What does the cfg look like? Where do you have the [probe] section located?

[round prairie]

Do I need to remove the [bltouch] section? When I do it says "Option 'control_pin' in section 'bltouch' must be specified"

[prisma solar]

To test, I suggest commenting out the bltouch section entirely and removing the bltouch section under the save_config. Based on the pinned message.

[round prairie]

Ah damn I forgot the save_config section

Lol I have slept only 4 hours in the last 2 days

[prisma solar]

Then for the ‘pin’ issue, have you tested without the ^ in front of the pin?

[prisma solar]

Lol no worries

[round prairie]

Omg I got through that pin error message and I am just getting more and more errors now. Time for a power nap. Thank you for your assistance!

[quartz basin]

@prisma solar what port did you plug the klicky into on the ebb36?

[quartz basin]

PB8 and ground, got it thx

[quartz basin]

if I remember correctly from a year ago with my Voron, the klicky should be in a triggered state when the probe is attached and open when the switch is actuated, or am I wrong?

[keen patio]

trigged when docked or actuated

open when attached, but it looks for the open signal before probing

[quartz basin]

ah ok, yeah when I remove the probe it says triggered, cool

[quartz basin]

ok which dock do I use for ender 5 plus (no hydra yet) and where does it mount? I'm looking for pics but I haven't found any. Plenty for the 5 Pro tho

[keen patio]

back left is where it mounts

and I think the 30mm dock fits the stock and plus variants on the plus build

[quartz basin]

nice, thanks

I'm just printing all 3, just to be sure

[quartz basin]

assuming I need to do a negative y_min in order to reach the probe dock

[keen patio]

should be able to set your y endstop far enough back that you do not need to do that

but I do use a negative x

back of your bed should be around Y 370

and you can set klicky to around 380-390 depending on the Y endstop location and max travels

[astral summit]

I use 30mm on my 5 plus

[quartz basin]

the carriage almost comes off the linear rail when I use the 30mm

[keen patio]

in the y axis?

are your rails to far forward?

[quartz basin]

maybe, I guess

[quartz basin]

Out of all the mods I've ever done to my crealities, Vorons, and now Mercury, Klicky is by far the coolest

[prisma solar]

I wholeheartedly agree.

[quartz basin]

whats your z-offeset with klicky ?

[prisma solar]

## [probe]
## z_offset = 9.145

[quartz basin]

k

[prisma solar]

That is what mine calibrated out to be

[quartz basin]

so my dock is at -10, 380 so I set my Y bed size to 380. My nozzle 10mm off the bed at this point. With a position_min=-10 on my X axis, I can assume a print won't happen at below 0. But what prevents the printer from printing above >370 on the Y axis ?

[keen patio]

your slicer settings control the max print area

I have both my x and y max positions around 380+, and control the bed size in the slicer

[quartz basin]

gotcha

grrr now 0,0 is off the bed

on Y

how do I fix that

[keen patio]

is it off the front?

[quartz basin]

yeah

[keen patio]

measure how far it is off the front

[quartz basin]

about 10mm

[keen patio]

and subtract that from your position max

or move the endstop back 10mm

also need to change position home to 370

but I would move the endstop back

[quartz basin]

towards the back of te machine correct

[wanton thorn]

can u show how u mounted the can on your eva mount?

[prisma solar]

Here is a picture. Then for the mount, there are mount’s specific for the extruded you can get/have.

[prisma solar]

Here is the thread for canbus and mounts:

https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1058784239539191838

[quartz basin]

Here’s mine

[empty crypt]

What was the fix here?

[astral summit]

i don’t remember

do u have z tilt defined in printer.cfg

and do u have all the klicky macros?

[empty crypt]

I think this may be my problem do you have an example of what this is suposed to look like? This is mine

[astral summit]

you have the r and c in macros flipped in first pic

says marcos instead of macros

move the z tilt definition to your printer.cfg

i would only store print start and end and gcode macros in a macros folder

that’s more of ztilt definition stuff

[empty crypt]

doh!

[astral summit]

lol does it work now

[empty crypt]

Kind of lol - its attempting it now anyway.

[empty crypt]

how is this even possible..

[quartz basin]

With klicky? My klicky map looks terrible too. Wasn’t that way with bltouch

[copper coyote]

@empty crypt reference index

or something like that let me find the name

https://www.klipper3d.org/Bed_Mesh.html#the-relative-reference-index

try that out

[astral summit]

did you z tilt before meshing?

[empty crypt]

Yeah i think i finally have it somewhat good

[astral summit]

what’s ur variance in z @empty crypt

[empty crypt]

printing right now on this

[astral summit]

that is a pretty poor variance. this conversation is probably not appropriate for the klicky chat tho. If you wan to open a build log or troubleshooting thing tag me

[earnest flax]

how do you probe the z-offset with the klicky probe?

[prisma solar]

I think this command if I recall correctly: PROBE_CALIBRATE

Then you do the paper test and then save the config.

https://www.klipper3d.org/Probe_Calibrate.html?h=z_#calibrating-probe-z-offset

[earnest flax]

should the porbe be docked or attached for that? i tried to remove it manually but then i got a move out of range error message

[earnest flax]

well turn out i can't even probe the bed, it gives me that pesky move out of range message immediately.

[round prairie]

If I recall correctly, I think that you leave it on but there will be a prompt to manually take it off right before you press the buttons to do the paper test.

[earnest flax]

well if there is it doesn't show up to me xD

[shadow dome]

did you come right? I had the same issue but there was a value in the Klicky_Variables that causes the system to try move out of the bed area.

[earnest flax]

Yes it's solved now and it works 🙂 Dunno what i did but it works xD

[torpid marlin]

is the step available for this?

[winter shale]

anyone know which klicky trihorn stl is a match for the "high / wide" original (I'm not sure what the dimensions in the stl names specifically refer to, but my best guess is the 33mm/5mm variant..)

[keen patio]

That sounds correct

I changed the naming to the distance above the nozzle tip and space between ducts

[winter shale]

gotcha that makes sense

[honest onyx]

Anybody heard or had an issue where only when heating to abs temps your klicky loses continuity in the connection and fails to undock?

[remote acorn]

I have not

All I can think off is bad connection to the magnets with the wires

Or maybe they're glued in at an angle

[winter shale]

abs parts have internal stresses that I'm pretty sure can result in flexing slightly, even below glass transition temperature, but this would be very small unless some part is long and thin and can result in connected things moving more significantly the further from the flex.

but that is almost certainly not it...

[remote acorn]

Yes but you can minimize it in a chamber that's hot enough, the newly extruded plastic shrinks when they cool down creating tension in the part.

[winter shale]

I was just saying that the only thing that I could think of that could cause an issue similar to that where it occurs past or below a certain temperature threshold, if hypothetically there was a part that had a shape, stress distribution, and influence over two two parts of a broken solder connection then it could be flexing just enough to pull the broken parts away and when cooled put them back into connection

but yeah to note the flip side of avoidance, if you did have a situation like that, You wouldn't have to reprint it in a chamber you could save the part by annealing it which releases the tension I don't know really who I'm telling this to lol but I figured I'd add that on

[harsh girder]

Translation

Text translated: Klicky printer.cfg settings

Create a new directory in mainsail or fluidd and name it klicky
Upload all config files from the klicky zip into the klicky directory

Add [include klicky/klicky-probe.cfg] to your printer.cfg

Comment out or remove your current [safe_z_home] section, The klicky cfg includes a new safe z home.

If switching from a BLtouch, remove the [bltouch] z_offset from the save_config section.

[stepper_z]
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
position_min: -15.0
position_max: 300
homing_speed: 12 ### Currently running my first homing speed at 20 ###
second_homing_speed: 5

[probe]
pin: ^PG10 ### Check your board pinout, this is an example pin ###
x_offset: -2
y_offset: 28.75
z_offset: 0
speed: 5 ### I have found it accurate on my setup running as fast as 10, at 16 the accuracy started to degrade ###
samples:1 ### Klicky is accurate enough for a single sample, the remaining lines are not needed if you run a single sample ###
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 1.0
samples_tolerance: 0.02
samples_tolerance_retries: 3

Narrow ducts on the left fit most hotends, while the default on the right fits wider hotends like the Mosquito.
High is the highest offset, Safe is a medium offset, and default is the lowest.
[Jump to original message](#1010991671426682951 message "Hovertext")
Translated from: English

**Translated to:** English
**Translated text:** ![leftline](https://cdn.discordapp.com/emojis/747887005190324306.webp?size=128 "leftline")![midline](https://cdn.discordapp.com/emojis/747887005295312947.webp?size=128 "midline")![midline](https://cdn.discordapp.com/emojis/747887005295312947.webp?size=128 "midline") Klicky printer.cfg settings ![midline](https://cdn.discordapp.com/emojis/747887005295312947.webp?size=128 "midline")![midline](https://cdn.discordapp.com/emojis/747887005295312947.webp?size=128 "midline")![rightline](https://cdn.discordapp.com/emojis/747887005278535710.webp?size=128 "rightline")

Create a new directory in mainsail or fluidd and name it klicky
Upload all config files from the klicky zip into the klicky directory

Add [include klicky/klicky-probe.cfg] to your printer.cfg

Comment out or remove your current [safe_z_home] section, The klicky cfg includes a new safe z home.

If switching from a BLtouch, remove the [bltouch] z_offset from the save_config section.

[stepper_z]
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
position_min: -15.0
position_max: 300
homing_speed: 12 ### Currently running my first homing speed at 20 ###
second_homing_speed: 5

[probe]
pin: ^PG10 ### Check your board pinout, this is an example pin ###
x_offset: -2
y_offset: 28.75
z_offset: 0
speed: 5 ### I have found it accurate on my setup running as fast as 10, at 16 the accuracy started to degrade ###
samples:1 ### Klicky is accurate enough for a single sample, the remaining lines are not needed if you run a single sample ###
samples_result: median
sample_retract_dist: 1.0
samples_tolerance: 0.02
samples_tolerance_retries: 3

Narrow ducts on the left fit most hotends, while the default on the right fits wider hotends like the Mosquito.
High is the highest offset, Safe is a medium offset, and default is the lowest.

Google Translate

[amber bear]

Name the item that does not belong... lol

[round prairie]

What is that? Klicky magnet?

[keen patio]

Yup

Glue can fail over time

[copper coyote]

mine are currently just pressed in place

older duct had to glue them otherwise that would happen

[round prairie]

I used gorilla glue. And the magnets are very tight fit. I don't think mine will fall out.

[amber bear]

haha, yep, started falling out, caught the print and ripped it right out. 🤷‍♂️ added some more glue, pressed it back in, tested the trigger and we are back rolling again.

[keen patio]

I had a magnet fall out of my klicky a few weeks ago... just swapped in a spare. Had that one drop a magnet yesterday. Dropped glue into each magnet pocket.

[round prairie]

Lol you guys gotta use real glue! 😆

[copper coyote]

cyanoacrylate 😁

[soft tide]

Strong recommendation for Gorilla Super Glue Micro Precise

[inner cosmos]

Is the 24mm 3mm duct for a Rapido HF?

[ionic grove]

Can this work with the PCB klicky?

I never used the probe before so I’m a bit confused on the differences between the standard and PCB one

[copper coyote]

does not afaik

[round prairie]

It does not. I bought the PCB version thinking it would. I ended up having to tear it apart to get the switches out.

[ionic grove]

Which toolhead did u end up using with the PCB klicky

And if there is a CAD file can u send it to me?

[round prairie]

I'm saying that I only ended up using the switches from the PCB klicky. Literally tore apart the PCB to get them out.

So if you want to use this mod then just get the switches. Don't buy the PCB unless you want to tear it apart for the switches.

[vague quail]

How are the wires supposed to be routed using the newer single piece duct? Do I snake it downwards to avoid rubbing the gantry beam and then route it up with the rest of the hotend wires?

[wicked stump]

the holes are for zip ties to guide the wires that might work but idk i dont use the cnc gantry and im still on the old duct lol

[remote acorn]

There is a newer version that has a slot we're currently testing

Right now you'd pull it tight to the side and add a zip tie

#1121217594586837043 message

[vague quail]

Got it

[amber bear]

Was hoping someone who is a bit better at CAD than I am, could help me make this happen. https://www.printables.com/model/391744-eva-fan-duct-mit-led-fur-voron/comments

[orchid heron]

Gimme a moment and I can combine that the which ever duct you want. What size do you need?

[amber bear]

Thank you! I am looking for the stl, I cant for the life of me remember what size i put in there.

[orchid heron]

No problem, I threw it into Blender and I've detached the LED mounts from the one model I just need to know which one you want me to attach them to and then I will drop the STL here for you

[amber bear]

Damn, I am at work and not at my machine, so I can not get the exact number. It was one of these two. Im sorry if this is too much. You're a saint! Thank you, I am sure others would appreciate this as well. @orchid heron

[orchid heron]

It's no problem, once I put it on one I can put it on the other just as easily

[amber bear]

Thank you!

[orchid heron]

Check both of these to see if they work for you.

[amber bear]

This is how the 4mm one loaded, tried it a few times.

the 3mm appears to load fine.

[orchid heron]

Oh I forgot to recalc normals LOL one sec

Sorry it's 3AM here and I half dead waiting for a long print to finally finish

[amber bear]

No worries, your a saint, it looks like it is going to print amazingly. I cant wait!

[orchid heron]

There you go 👍

[amber bear]

Gorgeous, Thanks again, I will post the finished product when I get it done.

[orchid heron]

Looking forward to it!

[amber bear]

This is going to awesome if I can get this wiring to fit. lol Anyway, could I get the step file, so I can make some extrusions?

[orchid heron]

I'll have to make you one, today 👍

[amber bear]

I appreciate you!

[orchid heron]

I didn't forget about you, I just got busy and then passed out but I'll take care of this today.

[amber bear]

No worries, no rush, also, I am really fighting my self to ask as you have done a great service already, but I am really unsure what size I have in there and I am kinda freaking out about it. The machine is currently printing amazingly and I am currently printing non stop to complete some projects at the moment and don't want to risk taring the toolhead apart just to check at this time. Is there anyway you could add them to this last size, and if there is anything I can do for you just DM me and let me know. Thanks again.

[orchid heron]

Here you go. I'll convert into a step file after I put m y kids to bed.

[amber bear]

Thank you, 🙏

[amber bear]

This one’s for you!! 🙏

Looks a lot better in person. 😅

[orchid heron]

Damn, that looks fun. Which hotend is that?

[dusky heart]

hello @keen patio can you confirm me that it works for klicky pcb .. i dont know much about klicky so wanted to know if it works as well with klicky pcb thanks

[keen patio]

nope

zero space for it

[amber bear]

Mine? It's a Slice Engineering Mosquito Magnum.

[dusky heart]

wich klciky attach do i need 🙂 ? thanks

[orchid heron]

@amber bear I forgot to tell you, I didn't make the step version because I had to pay to be able to use prismatic conversion. 😦 I might pay for it in the future but not today. 😅

[amber bear]

No worries, I have that, I will see if I can get it to work.

[viscid vapor]

Hello, please where did you get The zero g fan shroud ? Thx

[vagrant terrace]

Dude thats a old one. Got it from files page forgot the name damn…

But i think i have the files i can send it to you ed me a dm

[sly reef]

If I home the Z-axis, the klicky is not measuring in the center but is offset by about 15mm along the X-axis. What could be the issue? The offset is correct, and bed mesh leveling also measures in the correct positions.

[clever silo]

[safe_z_home}

Safe Z homing. One may use this mechanism to home the Z axis at a specific X, Y coordinate. This is useful if the toolhead, for example has to move to the center of the bed before Z can be homed.

https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html?h=pixel#safe_z_home

[keen patio]

Klicky overrides that

You have to define it in the one of the klicky files

[sly reef]

It worked, I had to modify this:
variable_z_endstop_x: 0
variable_z_endstop_y: 0
from 0 to the correct position.

[royal field]

I just wanted to say good work on the led mod. I like it so much, I would also please like to request if you can mod these sizes also
Klicky-24mm-3mm_trihorn
Klicky-24mm-4mm_trihorn
Klicky-24mm-5mm_trihorn

Thank you so much in advance.

[turbid basin]

Ok I didn't see it posted here, probably because it's common sense, but where is the 2 leads for the klicky getting plugged into on the board? Am I right to assume a signal and ground pin from the BLtouch port? (I'm running the octopus 1.1)

[wide birch]

I found some space, on a volcano anyway...

[clever silo]

You can use a common end stop port.

[turbid basin]

@clever silo so basically after I do this and sexbolt I'll have an x, y, z ,and klicky endstop?

(Plug)

[clever silo]

I don't have a Sexbolt so I can't say for sure.

[turbid basin]

So right now you have x, y and klicky?

[clever silo]

Your Z will be Klicky

My X will be Canbus.

[keen patio]

I have zero interest in supporting the pcb version, the standard height ducts are what most use.

do not try to figure out sexbolt until you understand klicky

[turbid basin]

If this is for me I'm using the mod here. Not the pcb

[keen patio]

both are complicated

[turbid basin]

@keen patio oh no I'm doing klicky first lol. Sexbolt is next

I'm not doing them at the same time

[keen patio]

both took me a good day to figure out

I did my best to explain what to configure in the pins in here

[turbid basin]

Hmm I didn't see the post. I read the thread twice.

I'll look again

[keen patio]

check the pins

[turbid basin]

Oh yea the pins I get. I was wondering about where to actually plug the wires into the board.

[keen patio]

its just an endstop

configure it the same as any other, but read the klicky github and look at the settings

[turbid basin]

Thanks. That's what I was thinking and that's how I have it wired up. I just wasn't sure if people were using the pin from the BL Touch port or not

[keen patio]

what ever endstop pins you want

[turbid basin]

@keen patio so i got it moving and it grabs the klicky but i get this error :Error evaluating 'gcode_macro _SetProbeState:gcode': gcode.CommandError: Probe attach failed!:

your directions are spot on, it was just a little rough finding the stuff in my config

[keen patio]

Check to make sure it triggers the probe state

[turbid basin]

probe state?

[keen patio]

On my phone, and my phone is refusing to connect to klipper

[turbid basin]

i think i figured it out. i just checked continuity with the klick mounted to the tool head and i was getting nothing back. so i cleaned off the magnets with some sand paper and now i have continuity. letting it boot back up and trying again

@keen patioyour directions were perfect everything is set up. now to just change the z-tilt locations, bed mesh points and screw points.

thanks for this! way better than my BL Touch

[keen patio]

great 🙂

klicky isnt to wrap your head around the first time

when I add it to a printer now, its seamless

[turbid basin]

@keen patio yea it seems really complicated but you laid it out nicely. I would never have been able to do it without this thread. Thank you.

Now I just need to figure out how to se my z offset.... at 0 I'm about 10-20mm off the bed lmao

[keen patio]

most seem to be around -8 to -11

set your z min to -15 to allow enough travel

if needed, increase it more

[turbid basin]

@keen patio are you manually setting the z offset though? I'm just trying to wrap my head around how to set z offset to get a proper first layer

[turbid basin]

Ok so that still applies. Thanks

I was using that with the bl touch

How's it work with the probe being so much lower than the nozzle?

[keen patio]

klicky has its own macro that overides it

but you do need to remove the klicky probe manually

I just push it off the back, and place it in the dock

[turbid basin]

@keen patio thanks for everything.

@keen patio lol im getting this now when i do PROBE_CALIBRATE Error evaluating 'gcode_macro PROBE_CALIBRATE:gcode': gcode.CommandError: Must perform PROBE_CALIBRATE with the probe above the BED!

[keen patio]

you need to jog the tool head to the center

with the probe attached

I think

[turbid basin]

i put it in the center then put the probe on manually then took it off

anyone know what this means? horizontal_move_z can't be less than probe's z_offset happens when i do z-tilt, after i calibrated my z offset....

[keen patio]

if your probe offset is -11.324 then your horizontal move needs to be a larger value than that

I set mine to 15 or 20

20 is safer, but slightly slower

[turbid basin]

@keen patio which file is that under?

[keen patio]

search your configs for it

should be bed mesh or z tilt

[orchid heron]

Did someone else make these sizes yet? If not I can do it. I just missed the comment, sorry. 😅

[royal field]

Its ok, no, no one has made these sizes

pretty please, can you

thank you

[amber bear]

Since you are doing all of them, You start a community with the updated led ones.

[turbid basin]

@keen patio should i start a thread in trouble shooting? i cant figure out horizontal_move_z being lower than z_offset. horizontal z is 30 and my z_offset is 8.xxx

[turbid basin]

im looking at the klicky github, do i need to have this in my printer.cfg? [stepper_z]
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop # Klicky probe Z endstop
#position_endstop: -0.10

[turbid basin]

disregard, i figured it out. in my z-tilt i didnt have a horizontal move. so once i added that, its all good

[placid violet]

I've got klicky setup and running great with 1 exception. When I hit home or z tilt it grabs the klicky and works great. But bed mesh calibrate fails as it doesn't attach the probe. I've checked everything I can think of but can't figure it out. Anyone have any ideas?

[turbid basin]

so klicky is set up and working great, however, i have since lost my adaptive mesh with KAMP. is there something i need to add somewhere to get that back? now it just does a mesh of the whole bed before each print.

[royal field]

@orchid heron not trying to bug, I know your just volunteering, but please I just wanted to remind you/ checkin. This is in regards to the trihon leds mod. Thank you.

[orchid heron]

No problem, I'll try to get to this today or tomorrow 👍

[royal field]

Thanks alot.

[inner cosmos]

Getting this error "Existing command 'BED_MESH_CALIBRATE' not found in gcode_macro rename" not sure why. Anyone run across this?

[copper coyote]

you don't have mesh configured?

[inner cosmos]

In the printer config?

[copper coyote]

yep

[inner cosmos]

Nope. I will do that.

[inner cosmos]

I am trying to run the attach_probe function, I home X and Y, perfect listed at 0 for both as absolute. As soon as I send attach_probe it errors the move is out of range -17 for Y. It never moves from home. I set my dock location as per the many instructions online and set my probe offset from the pinned messages in here. Not sure where its getting a -17 move on Y from. Anyone encounter this?

[keen patio]

Would need to see your y max position and y endstop position

As well as klicky dock position

[inner cosmos]

Thanks @keen patio

[keen patio]

Where are you homing?

Back right?

[inner cosmos]

correct

[keen patio]

This a 5 pro?

[inner cosmos]

Yes.

[keen patio]

Your endstop and max should be the same

Both 305

You have a backwards motor or switched motors

X should also have the same values

I would start with 250 or 260 for both. I think you can get around 280 if your endstops and rails are set properly

#klipper message

[inner cosmos]

B is X on the left and A is Y on the right?

[keen patio]

Yes

Check the link I posted

X zero should be the left edge and y zero the front edge

[inner cosmos]

Oh, I thought home was 0

That makes sense then.

[keen patio]

Front left is always zero

You can home any where

[inner cosmos]

Ok. I wasn't aware of that. Perfect. Its a simple fix then.

[keen patio]

If your x endstop was on the left then you would have endstop position -5 and X min -5 with a X max of 275 as an example

[inner cosmos]

Thank you very much for your time

[inner cosmos]

What variable changes the docking for klicky only after bed mesh calibrate is ran? it will home perfect every time. However, after it completes a bed mesh calibration, the tool head sets too far back on Y and as it heads toward the dock on X it hits the and drops the probe. Then it crashes into the left X joint. I am assuming there is a relative move that is calculated wrong since its going into the negative territory at that point.

[copper coyote]

nothing there unless you got code of yours doing changes between relative and absolute

[inner cosmos]

I didn’t think so. I have some figuring to do. Thanks.

[copper coyote]

if you run it manually are there issues?

[inner cosmos]

Homing? Or the bed mesh?

[copper coyote]

home then mesh

like g28 and bed_mesh_calibrate

[inner cosmos]

Let me try

@copper coyote G28 runs perfect either way. BMC has the same behavior either way. I adjusted my bed parameters and endstops and its better, but there are two issues:

1. The toolhead still overshoots the dock on docking procedure after a BMC event only--this behavior is not present after a G28

2. After the probe attaches for a BMC the toolhead makes an odd move where it looks like its heading to one point more center of the bed, reaches it's Y coordinate then heads negative X for the first probe point--it bangs on this move.

So I do have some improvement, but still ironing out small details it seems.

[copper coyote]

hmm parking position maybe

[safe falcon]

Are there UHF ducts? Got a Rapido 2 UHF

[copper coyote]

yup hold on

https://discord.com/channels/747612067951018075/1121217594586837043 check these

[safe falcon]

Thank you

[vital moat]

Does anybody know what duct would fit the Mellow NF Crazy hotend?

[copper coyote]

wide high IIRC

[vital moat]

The updated ducts with the integrated bottom plates are named based on the offsets of the nozzle and width. I suppose I can print the older one, but they are named narrow and default.

[copper coyote]

og right it changed

default

I believe

[vital moat]

Ok, so default and high.

[copper coyote]

I think that's it

not 100% sure

[keen patio]

The bigger number is the distance between tips. Default was wide and low

[vital moat]

Is there a way I can figure out what duct to use with the NF Crazy?

[keen patio]

I am in my basement doing some wiring right now, so can't look at the numbers

But you would want to the first number to be larger

The second number is the theoretical height from the bed to the tips of the duct outlets

I would probably stay with the middle height

Or print all 3

[vital moat]

The heater block on the NF Crazy is not very wide. I think I may try one of the 24mm ducts and see how it works.

[keen patio]

I have no experiance with them

can always test fit before gluing the magnets

I also advise printing at least one spare of the size you need, either in case you crash and break one, or if you have issues gluing in the magnets

[vital moat]

I've got two Ender 5 Pro's. One is torn down to the frame ready for the Mercury conversion and the other is printing the necessary parts, so no problem there.

[keen patio]

that helps

[vital moat]

Thanks a lot. Good luck with your wiring.

[keen patio]

24mm is narrow and 33mm is default or wide

the narrow and default naming seemed confusing to me

as did the height names

so I went with measured values

[vital moat]

Ah, so 33mm. I may end up trying both, but we'll see. Thanks again.

[wanton thorn]

What did you use in the and

i want the same hotend

[safe falcon]

I'm using this for now. In order to use the twin duct I need to modify it to fit my Klicky PCB but the mesh has too many triangles to work with in Fusion so unless I get the step file theres not much I can do.

[astral summit]

which duct do I run with rapido?

[orchid heron]

I believe it is the 24mm 3mm duct. I think that's what I have on mine. I can take apart the toolhead and check unless @inner cosmos knows, already.

[inner cosmos]

@astral summit first off beefsammich—love it. Second, I’m not 100% let me remote in and see if I can find what I printed.

24mmx3mm that’s for Rapido 2.0 HF.

[orchid heron]

I was about to say "you know you printed like 4 different ones" 😅

[inner cosmos]

Don’t say that so loud. lol. I printed all the same size. Some with klicky and some very poorly.

[keen patio]

23x3 is what I used

[minor glacier]

@keen patio Do you have the source somewhere? 🙂 I would like to remix it to use magnets with screws instead.

[torpid marlin]

Is it not in the CAD?

[keen patio]

my cad for those is a mess and I have not had time to clean it up

[proud lance]

@keen patio Wondering if you can help me out. I am stuck. I did everything and I keep getting the error QUERY_PROBE already registered. If I enter the probe info it pulls this error up and idk what to do.

[keen patio]

Not sure if any of the klicky macros have changed since I last used klicky, due to klipper updates. I am no longer using klicky on any of my printers.