#3D Printing Shrine
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
abs what?
no stupid layer shifts
bro does not have a lathe
actual ams
bro does not have a dad
you dont
nah i do hes goated
my daddy has a porsche
engine being rebuilt rn
not some shitter
my uncles
needs to switch to volvo
hes got an rx2, all 3 gens of rx7, NA Miata, NC Miata, and the newest Miata
drives a mazda 3 as a daily
man the short person copium go crazy
all his miatas are red 
hell yeah
he also has datsun 260z
thats baller
someone complimented my volvo today
not sure if i have photo
thats how goated it is
was it a grandma
good boy
liked my rims 🙏
show me your rims
nah oem rims were fucked when i got them
oh L
couldnt hold air
slightly upsized so it looks nicer on the car
mine are steelies with big ass hubcaps
didnt look terrible
but they were curbed the fuck out of
like
all 4 rims all around
big ass tires wtf
they are not big ass tires
theyre 185/65R14
american build tires
minivan
oh hell yeah
id whip this mf
my friend drives his moms chrystler pacifica to school
minivan drivers go crazy ig
how many gal is your tank again
so 14 gal
yeah
i would get like 250 on a full tank idk
im at 1/4 full and ive drove 195
ive driven across the country and back on a single tank
and its 11 gal
diesel my love
i get 38mpg using US units
ive been getting higher recently cuz i just glide everywhere now its fun
but my parents had one - nothing but issues apparently
bad drivers
go buy sports car like that one guy here
oh joshua?
the idiot financing at 16?
says the one wanting to finance a z6iii kekl
its not a 15,000 car
i want a miata
ultimate short person car
the huzz gon hate this one
nah
yes
the huzz hates short people
listen to american propoganda
you must be 6ft
or youre a chud
ok pal
oh guess what
my uncle with the cars
hes single
if im single i end up like him
🔥
a huzzless chud
hes goated
@hollow fiber get P2S
why
this tooltrace ai stuff is working quite well for my gridfinity cutouts
better than p1s smh
tooltrace?
you have to put the thing you want a cutout for on or next to a piece of a4 paper and then take a picture from above. After that you can upload it to their website and get a print ready gridfinity box with the cutout. So far it works great and its free

abs 
I do need to actually look into it though, got a 11kg ABS print coming up with decent number of supports
oh so this isnt like petg where you tipically wanna use pla for support interfaces?
I'm sure there's better support interface materials, I just don't know them
Google says its PLA
some other folks on the bambu forum apparently use HIPS
Since i already have a roll of PLA ill just try that first
I keep chamber too hot to use PLA
yeah right thats something i forgot. About to start my first ASA print, you were doing 55c+ right?
65C
fine, just started my first asa print. Lets see how it turns out
Asa ive had good luck with asa-asa supports
yeah... don't want this for ams 2 pro on a1m
ABS
probably just the light cuz i used phone flash for the pic. Irl they look like standard 0.2mm layer lines
@lapis nova abs?
Ay you got any abs or nah
All those boxes are abs lol
I know i was making a joke

Silly goose
ABS on ABS supports are fucking amazing
@lapis nova @grand void @hollow fiber 50% off polymaker stuff on amazon RESELLERBF

damn, should still check though
unfortunately its not available here either
yooooo
are we deadass
its not working
how many spools?
uno
i put 4 spools and it applied
yeah needs 4 spools
40kg 😭😭😭
ah
are dissolvable supports worth it
they seem rlly nice
I’m also gonna get some 95A TPU
if you have a niche need sure, but PVA is an absolute bitch to print with
Just for a good surface finish - I have these header trailers I print for a friend and the surface finish on some of the parts suck balls
i experimented with a new petg supplier today and immediately threw that shit away. Probably the worst filament ive ever used lol
jayo petg is the best for me cuz its flawless with standard settings and i can get it for cheap on aliexpress
like 35€ for 5.5kg
fortunately not
You missing out on this
nope i only have a hotel address from when i was in america for vacation 
i still need to reprint my asa funnel for my car
lmao
i also rearranged my room which means i have space for another printer
could get a kobra 3 for dirt cheap on kleinanzeigen and use that for tpu
and other stuff that cannot be printed with the ams
P2S
H2S
@naive forge starting to think about P2S on Black Friday sale…..
if it had a chamber heater I'd be more excited tbh
also has shit air filtration... like h2 series
I mean it’s $549 normally
So with BF discount it should be pretty good
I want that screen
😭
lol fair
do these make zooming smooth or something
why people use them
@tender pawn do you think extension tubes are 3d printable
Yes, the only issue the the locking pin mechanism and how you decide to implement it, to prevent the lens from just twisting and sliding off
Because some people have better fine motor skills for precision focusing when the focusing mechanism is more ergonomic.
what have you printed for your camera stuff
You can also gear the throw if it is mechanical and not electrical/configurable
Mostly designed lens caps and hot shoe mount stuff
all ive done is a hot shoe cover with the indiana university logo
Also made a m42 to Z adapter, but I would recommend metal for this
I've done that with the Z logo, but I burnt the Nikon Z logo into them with my infrared laser
thats dope
d500 rig lmao
i could print out a few of those zoom gear thingies lol
this is just....
not gonna work
if youre trying to print a rig
Why not
It’s gonna be a shit rig
maynnn yall haters
D500 ass
Printed rig will work... just not gonna rec it for everything, especially small clamp parts
or the rods lol
thats the biggest concern for me
a cage and whatever sure itll work okay for now until it explodes
the rods with constant force with typically some sort of weight on em is a worry
Good boy
could just...
buy a rig
or a better cam instead of rigging a mid dslr
rigging a d500 is definitely one of the choices of all time
quite a stupid one
rig for a camera with no video af and poor video spec is peculiar 😭
For 0 reason
wtf did I just read
I’m sorry what
Got some pla 
imagine having to buy a separate heating unit at 100$ for your ams
couldnt be me
@naive forge
Should I buy it tho
IDK, do you need it?
Yes
I hate this p1s screen
plus the camera is actually usable
do you need it now or can you wait?
Wait for what
Isn’t p2s more expensive
I don’t remember what p2s msrp is
mmmm maybe, thought they were/might be pretty close
How would it be better tho
p2s msrp atleast in EU (no clue about US) the p2s combo is a bit more than x1c non-combo price
better x-axis rods
better nozzle
better camera
better screen
newer printer so support will last longer
how much is x1c non combo in eu
fucking insane, but basing it off us x1c price
so converted to USD what would it be
P2S
600 / 864.88 USD (so higher than I remembered for the combo)
about to print a wall mount for my lego concorde
i wonder if PLA would be strong enough
It'll be strong enough, but you want to over design what ever holder you print so you can prevent creep
i got the holder from printables and then strengthened it up more in the slicer
holds up so far
Real
ayo send it over
I have the Concorde too

how does it mount
black magic
theres a hole at the bottom of the concorde for the standard pedestal and the mount can be pushed into said hole
the guy who made it added some additional layers to create some friction for the concorde to not fall off
yeah its a cool stand but i dont have room anymore lol
crazy hold
this set is sick
my friends bought me the 747sca on my bday
that one is awesome tootho u cant lower the gear on the stand
which is kinda annoying tbh i like my models gear down
lego does have some cool sets but most of them are just massively overpriced or plain garbage 
kinda unfortunate that they went from this cool family run company with affordable toys to a (still family run) mega corporation that just focuses on making as much money as possible
i guess thats what you get when most of your C suite positions are held by former mckinsey strategists
😔
The vehicles ones are probably the best

mmm offbrand lego
offbrand lego has much better quality bricks like 90% of the time

no 26mm smh my head
this lens is fantastic
it’s perfect for literally anything
is it weather sealed?
I don’t believe so
airshow?
yes
decided to put my lego f1 car on the wall too
twink hand
@naive forge its really tempting if it comes in stock
i highly doubt p2s will anytime soon
assuming they are struggling with customs atm
with tariffs and shit p2s probably not gonna come
yeah
so that means this probably wont restock either?

or if it restocks, p2s will come with
@naive forge people say its FCC thats affecting P2S
Oh possibly
@lapis nova p2s 549 / 799
Alr I’m buying
Printer only I don’t need 2 ams
@naive forge $52 nozzle is wild
we ball
do your parents gaf about you
yeah
Go buy it
anything but z6iii
vro did u see z9 price
i literally responded 😭
ye but isnt that crazy vrochini
whar
already going there sometime tho
399 usd
Personally, 49 isnt enough for me to go non-brand new
Ah
Yeah definitely
are your prints much better now
yes
just designed my first ever model with fusion
as soon as you get to grips with it, its so much better than tinkercad lol
im still slow as shit tho so any complex model will take ages to make
i can see why its better its just.... a big learning curve when i make stuff once a month
Yeah, but it is nice
lemme see
oh @naive forge my dads work got an H2D, 2 AMS 2 Pro, and 1 AMS HT

nice
its just an empty square with screw holes acting as an under-desk ssd holder lol
🔥
yes
then two printer
do you still have the p1s?
@naive forge 16 do you have any ideas why my layer adhesion seems to be incredibly poor after like 50% of the print? My first ASA print worked flawlessly with the standard settings (250c, 100c) but the second one failed halfway through like seen in the image. I decreased the print speed and upped the temperature to 255c but got the same issue again. Filament is properly dryed as well
What brand asa and what chamber temps?
Also whats the preview in slicer look like?
Flashforge ASA and chamber temps are at about 50c. Dont have access to the slicer at the moment but is there something i need to look out for?
Just anything weird around the height it failed, small gaps, weird protrsutions. Etc...
Thanks ill take a look at the model later. Im just a bit confused because the print worked flawlessly for the first time. Second print was the exact same model with the same settings.
i guess thats just the truth with 3d printing sometimes lol
Hmm
how much does printer really matter
obviously cant make the build plate bigger or stuff, but otherwise arent they all pretty simple machines?
i think for larger items the prnter doesn really matter too much (assuming theres no quality ur after) but for smaller items the printer probably does matter cuz some are more precise and accurate than others
most quality id like is to be able to press fit bearings
or like hotshoes
think i could just buy some random one off marketplace then?
It can be very important or not as important depending on goals and materials used
I will hazard against used printers as its nearly impossible to find common issues without turning on and operating the printer and having knowledge already
probably yeah but i would not do that
i know my way around a prusa mk4 from my school
thats about it tho
Lemme find a photo real quick
Not on here, but instead of prusa core one there is a bambulab p2s
why is big shit so expensive
Cause its big shit and they tend to be the higher tier products sold by companies
Cheap big shit is well.... shit
what multi color mean
any can change colors right
after a layer
It can change colors/materials automatically in the middle of a print, some advanced uses of this can mean several thousands changes in 1 print
This is 1 single print that isnt painted for example
No, you can have 10 colors on 1 layer for example
Technically but that involves you changing the filament everytime, in this case its done automatically
yeah just making sure i can change with layers
i dont see myself ever used multicolor icl
For me its mostly a nice to have
Firmware the printer runs
Klipper is generally the most open source/customizable, but its really upto personal preference
If you want to mod the printer down the road it can be worth it, if you just want to print stuff it doesn't really matter
what mods
Anything.
if i can make it, able to queue stuff and then push finished prints off, and also upload stuff through network, that's about all I'd want
Queue and push stuff off is possible, but quite a bit more involved/complicated than you may hope
Most reliable is typically using a bed slinger (bed moves back and forth on y axis)
so nozzle just goes back and forth on x axis?
cant just put the bed on a tilt and then print something on the nozzle to push it off with gcode once its cooled?
Is there any DIY printer that can mostly be printed minus the electrical components
Its just not super reliable, but yes you can
Yeah but idk whats good or not on that side of things
any pointers?
you like a 3d printing merchant right
I sell some things but its not really a main goal of mine
I use a swapmod for my a1 mini though
Do you have any ideas of what you want to print?
uh, really anything. I like drones a little, designing one might be cool when i have free time. lots of goofy tinkering stuff I think
I mean having the capability to create plastic anything sounds dope
Id say qidi q1p/q2c would be nice if you really want to do drone stuff otherwise p2s or anything on that bottom row would be a good option
why chambers help with drone stuff?
You'll want materials that require higher chamber temps to print well
hmmm
if not that serious, everything on the bottom row should be able to be modded into queuing right?
and network stuff
do you have a homeserver or anything
Many of them have network connectivity stock, if not all of them.
Queuing is really a printer by printer basis, they all technically can, but whether or not something already exists is unknown
I do, but it has 0 contact with my printers
which printer would let me like use a custom web interface and stuff
hosted on my server
Uhhhh, a klipper printer, but no clue how they are with non-native hosted ui's, never bothered or cared to look into it as its kinda useless to me tbh
Run ui on printer or rpi connected to printer
Access on lan
Use VPN to remote into lan as needed or run cloud service like obico
i guess... would just be nice if i could send shit to it like whenever i want, and come home to all of them printed
Yeah you dont need anything special for that beyond a self hosted vpn like tailscale
why would I need tailscale?
I should be able to just port forward it and access it from wherever
To access ui/printer outside of your homes wifi
port forwarding
Just an easy way to do it without always leaving an open port
ig
Outside of bambu, they all do require a pc (or laptop) of some sort to slice and send files so you are aware
Ill have to see how they are with port forwarding also
yeah thats another thing i was wondering, if I could bake it into my web interface and have the server slice it and then send it
Not possible with most common slicers, but im sure there is a way
Hmmm they do offer stuff like that then, prusaslicer is the choice to go with
which brand has the biggest community? I believe that brand will have the most modding options
prusa?
not a single prusa 😭
Prusa core one is up there, they just frankly arent all that good anymore, they have expensive printers with last year's tech
Bambulab is the biggest, but qidi and creality has a solid modding community, sovol has decent too depending on exact printer
Bambulab is not made for modding btw*
I would say 90% of my prints fit on it, but that ultimately comes down to user
It’s really not
I only had a couple parts not fit
Like what
A plane wing, paid print for a company
not a whole lot
a header trailer for someone
uhhhhh
that’s about it
Theres a few on printable and thingverse
@naive forge i figured out what the issue was with my asa prints. Turns out the model lost bed adhesion entirely during the print. Increased bed temperature by 5c and now it works
sounds about right lol

made another small upgrade to my workbench
nuh uh i made sure to print it really strong
that asa print was the one i had trouble with lol
real
wait til it falls teehee
Im still waiting for the day when my Lego f1 car falls off the wall cuz the holder was printed with pla and like 7% infill lol

I can either gamble on the current mount or make one out off asa/petg
The car weighs a fuck ton cuz it’s huge so it’s basically a matter of time before we have a disaster
make one
you bomboclat
Has to wait for another 3h cuz I’m currently printing a wall mounted rack for my filament spools
I keep mine in air tight plastic box thingy 
Me too but I find it annoying to always pull out the box whenever I wanna switch filaments. Id also like to see what filaments I have in one glance
eek
i dont have dryboxes
I just used to do the box thingy for drying purposes but since the ams has built in drying idrc anymore
im too broke for it
I exclusively bought a drybox for tpu lol
And whatever non compatible filament I will get in the future
Kinda tempted to buy the kobra 2 max for 180€ directly from anycubic
420x420x500mm would be neat
Yeah I’m a bit hesitant tho cuz reviews are mixed
The build volume is just really enticing
meh cant be horrible if you just toss a huge nozzle on it
id expect
0.2mm nozzle and off we go
off you go where? 😭
35h print print time for a 30x30cm first layer
multiple hundred hours at 0.2 lol
Im looking right at it

hey i actually made sure to print the mounts as strong as possible
they feel like a solid chunk of plastic
What budget printer if I want good speed and accuracy
Didn't realize how much that varied
Print that the prusa mk4 did flawlessly at like 1.2hrs was over 3hrs for some elegoo one
Build plate size not a concern
Part of the print was a motor enclosure, I had to shave off corners of the motor to fit it because when the thing printed out the walls, corners melted inward
bambulab a1 mini is good and cheap
otherwise theres also the anycubic kobra 3 in the same price range
it offers a bigger print volume but its a bit less polished
less polished as in it may require some more fiddling around with before its prints are great
will be comparable to a mk4?
yeah they’ll both get you great results. Directly comparing them is a bit difficult as one costs >200€ and the other about 700€. Prusa and bambu also follow different philosophies for 3d printing. Bambu is quite a locked down and tightly integrated system so if your intentions are to modify the printer then prusa or anycubic/creality would all be better
bambu possible to create some way to queue prints? automating taking them off?
has to be right? big ahh bambu community
already exists yeah
yeah theres an autoswap mod for the a1 series. It wont work with an enclosed printer like the p series
the mod for the a1 mini is quite cool cuz it auto swaps build plates
which works more reliably compared to just knocking off the print from the build plate
does that also mean i need another build plate tho
yep
the method that only requires one plate wont work reliably with flatter/smaller models and filament that has strong bed adhesion
basically just throw the print by knocking it off
or new plate
shrimple
get a supertack plate and its fine
i hate my supertack because its too good
i cant get shit off and end up scratching it
or heating it to 100c and burning myself peeling it off
my aliexpress special plate is fucking great. Prints stick perfectly while printing and can be easily removed after the print is done.
ew bedslinger
im going to sling your z6
you arent real gng
on god

what the freaky
my dads work got one
they also bought 2 more ams
so 4 total
🤑🤑🤑
printer table complete 
fire
you bought the p2s right?
looks like enough space for a second printer tbh
is it worth it for 130€ more or can i also buy a p1s?
It’s better than the X1C in a bunch of ways so I’d say buy the P2S over P1S
Chamber temp regulating, upgraded extruder motor, easy swap nozzle, usable live view cam, auto plate detection, touchscreen, brighter LEDs, smaller purge line, way better purge wiper/chute
Steel rods over carbon rods
did you buy the combo? I think i dont really need an AMS as ive printed multicolor like once in a year.
I didn’t but I have the AMS from my P1S
FYI if you want to buy the AMS 2 Pro later, you need to buy the P2S filament buffer. The OG AMS comes with a buffer, but only for the P1P/S X1C
wonder what to print
i did a hood for a lens, few caps, and hotshoe covers, thinking to go to my bag now
@random coral is this orientation fine to print
walls are 2mm
orange arrows are the forces it will experience
uhhh
idk
i dont really make pieces that experience force
but i think the orientation should work with a brim on it
cool
could maybe print on a slight tilt to avoid shearing but really a non issue
its enough for 3 if i had a big enough enclosure lol
P2S
@grand void you get one too
you don’t need z9
they can fuck off
better than X1C
print on a tilt?
supports would be a pita no?
like a 45 degree tilt lengthwise
supports become annoying yeah but strength increases
id probably just use a larger nozzle or print profile just to get a little more strength
also really depends on what the part is for
tripod cup for backpack
Flagship printer
Well
Was flagship
It’s like $800 USD
uhhh
how would this work?
what other parts
cup with a strap horizontal on it
just holds two straps
slip on the backpack, slip 2nd strap on the clip
is a1 ams compatible with p1s
the lite?
oh then that orientation is fine
also fuh naw
figured
will print with a skirt tho
p1s is probably about as far as id go
(if cheap enough like £300)
ur willing to spend a million on zf but not P2S
£1000 for something ill use often vs £550 for a printer ill use once every 2 months
one truth and one lie ahh
idk the difference
also idk if p1s will fit in enclosure :P
not enclosed
brotha
it is enclosed
it has carbon filter
u can also magnet ur duct shit to the exhaust
there’s exhaust fan at the back
u can either use the fan screws or I believe u can magnet to it
@hollow fiber
weak ass mf
id rather not have lung cancer
id like a family in future and not to die at 20
loser
poop chute behind printer seems weird too
nah not really
u can print thingy that makes it go to the side of ur printer
ahh the ramp thing
i believe the ventilation stuff covers it somehow anyway
well partially
so it doesnt let any fumes out from there
bruh
stay prepared cuh
fragile mf
gonna live to 40 unlike you...
ive found someone wanting to buy an a1
so sent them a message
if they buy it i cop the p1s
what nozzle p1s take
i assume i cant use a1 ones
correct
P1S nozzle
proprietary?
basically yeah
this is where I’d rec a P2S cuz they’re way faster to change
costs more on its own than p1s combo
$550 USD
£400 for p1s combo or £560 for p2s no ams 
How often do you change nozzle
Imma be real the P1S nozzle change sucks dick compared to P2S/A1
rarely
then ur fine with P1S
like once a month max lol
P1S is two screws and 2 cables
Someone else’s pic but u can see the screws and cables
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smth like this could make it easier no?
This is how like every other non Bambu printer is
ye
but ill prob just stick to stock for a while
otherwise Bambu you either need to swap the heater and thermistor over to a new nozzle or buy the complete nozzle
Cuz for these, the heater and thermistor is in the actual nozzle
yeah id just but the whole hotend
changing the stuff isn’t awful but it’s messy cuz thermal paste
easier to either get the upgrade or just new hotends
ive found a new p1s for 290€ which tempts me to buy it but i need a reality check cuz id be keeping my kobra s1. Having 2 corexy printers from totally different brands seems like a dumb idea as i would have to buy a completely new kit of accessories and juggle between 2 different slicers. At this point it seems more sensible to just buy a second kobra s1 for the same price but id really like to give a higher end bambu a shot
id just get p2s minimum
if u want high end
p2s is basically x1c replacement
If I want high end I’m buying an h2d
what do u guys print so much to justify hundreds on printers
then do it
i yearn for the p1s but my a1 must sell first
sex toys
me too but another kobra s1 would be way smarter for as i already have one with tons of accessories
are you gonna get a new ams tho?
yea apparenly lite not compatible
ams 2 pro
its 400 for a p1s with ams sooooo
not baddd
no built in drying tho
i dont print anything that needs drying
especially in uk climate
yuppp
p1s im gonna get ventilation prints for
ill just buy a second kobra s1 instead. Can equip one with .4 and the other with .6 as i already own a bunch of hotends.
this guy def vapes
nah I don’t but my homies do
you're also stupid so its soon to start
na
bit of an expensive addiction for u tho
killing myself vs killing myself
one is less
one makes you feel good
and kills u faster
one makes your nose hurt
bro what
my nose doesn’t burn when inhaling PLA
bro lost all the nerves already
plastic is like notoriously not healthy to inhale
only reason its deemed safe is because its a new technology
you think I’m purposely doing it
wuh
wait
id assume so if enclosed
but also poop chute open
so im gonna seal that mostly with rubber/silicone and use hella positive pressure to turn it into a cool air intake
p1s no have?
no it’s more open there
but not gonna kill u
you can easily fix it with tape or whatever
naur issue with ground is just a pain to access for me
back problems at 18 😔
table makes it easy
you really are fragile
pretty much yeah
kinda valid tho. I always have the cases filtration on and i have an air purifier in the room, even though im not in the same room as the printer
I’m usually always in the same room as my printer as it’s printing, same with my brother, he only pointed out the PA6-GF which I get
asa is pretty stinky too at least compared to pla/petg
ABS is baaaaad
i really have no idea what any of it smells like anymore
see you grow out of it
do you put on a hazmat suit too
usually cover my mouth yes lol
brotha
i do not play when it comes to my health
don’t you vape
but has back pain at this young of an age smh my head
i very very rarely have back pain even tho im sitting for like 80% of the day
shit posture moment
but i have other health related issues so im still a bit fucked lol
❌
I have wild seasonal allergies and asthma
👍
i have allergies all year round, incredibly shit eyes and a skin disease
kit lens bad or worse
peak
I have mid eyes
10% eye sight worse and close to a cornea transplantation lol
inshallah my friend
mibomboclat
rip
oke I gotta go into work now 😔😔
well i do have contacts that get my up to 115% but i cant wear them all day and i couldnt wear them for like 3 years cuz of surgeries and infections
5-10:30 shift is buns
5 hours 😭
its 12pm and i still procrastinate disassembling my kobra 2 max
pla basically doesn't smell like anything
real
it does its just usually something people cant smell
also
not smelling it doesnt mean it isnt harmful
are you someone who doesnt touch the supermarket receipt cuz BPA!!!! ?
i have to for work 😔
i religiously use hand sanitizer and wash my hands though but that fucks up my skin
petun
what filament p1s print
pa6/12 cf is probably the peak
@hollow fiber how much are you selling your a1 for?
trying to get at least 330gbp
cuz thats what i paid
u want it? 
just for the printer or with ams
combo
im on the fence for one but i dont think it makes sense for me to buy from you when factoring in customs and shippiong
would be 72€ + shipping which would bring the total to well above 400gbp
i meannn if you actually want one dm me some info ill figure out shipping and such
does have a full set of nozzles and a supertack plate
wouldnt do 330 if sold to someone ik ofc
0.2 and 0.4 stainless
0.4 0.6 and 0.8 hardened
ya anything below nylon basically
👍
i only plan to do like... asa max lol
light work
wait you dont wanna put cater through the same nylon hell?
fuck nylon
mid
maybe ill try abs
idk what for tho
gyatt
if u die of PLA fumes…abs isn’t for you
if pla fumes are too much then even asa isnt for him
damn my pla print actually warped lol
i get no fumes cuz proper ventilation 
