#40k-minis-and-armies
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They need to sort their shit out production wise even if it's a shift in priorities
Stop releasing new fucking ultramarines every second day
Aeldar have an entire 3rd of their faction that doesn't exist in any significant way
Tau are essentially only a tiny fraction of their potential range with auxiliary specialists
Emperors Children outright do not exist
World Eaters, Votann and Thousand sons barely have a full range
But yea lets release 20 minis in a year that look exactly the fucking same and are just holding a bolter in a different post with 2 more purity seals than usual
The way that some space marine chapters get their own books and some get sidelined into the main codex is really awkwardly implemented and is essentially the company saying "These ones are the important ones and fuck you for liking the other ones" and you're left having to become a sculpting expert or literally paying 5x as much if you'd like decent looking Salamanders or Iron Hands, either they all get their own book or they're not unique enough to exist to begin with
Ad Mech players are just being openly extorted into buying twice as many of the most expensive models at this stage
Dark Admech when? Ynnari when? Harlequins when?
I quit streaming due to drama from the warhammer community
I'm just ranting at this stage but I'm genuinely sick to death of how half assed most of the faction support is
Gotta be more optimistic but it lol
thats why I dont really get people being mad about the AOS range squish... stormcast all look the SAME
i got sick of having a paint company send their fans after me and lying about my qualifications
Kroot are awesome
KROOT RISE UP
(i want to get 2000 points in kroot now)
its been like that for decades, if its not space marines, it doesnt get support
It's been like that since man first crawled from the primordial soup and used a space marine figurine to beat another man to death.
FR Tau are my favourite faction on paper, but the jarring difference between their lore as this multi-race utopic Star Wars/Halo/Mass Effect faction that should have a bunch of cool specialist units and different playstyles to their identity on tabletop where they're just Sniper-Gunline-Gundam-Guard with even less depth is so disappointing
i think it should be both, kroot are a nice step towards that š
They literally have a race of psyker owlbears in their lore GW are basically choosing to have less money by not making those minis
i think it was the eldar who didnt get a new model for like 14 years
Yeah Aeldar's complete lack of support is crazy, especially when they're always a top competitive faction
They seem to think a drukhari release counts as giving Aeldar anything
they dont even update normal models
There are aeldar models that are current competitive staples that are on their second divorce
Like unironically 25+ year old models that are the most current minis for that unit
They'd make bank off all 4 tau players instead of all 600K space marine dedicated fans
People would play other factions if they got minis
I mean you can say that but that doesn't mean a major release would instantly draw in enough support to make it worth doing over a space marine
Its just market stuffs
This is the logical fallacy GW fall on constantly, they soft released Ynnari, made the models too expensive, didn't promise any future support and then blamed us for killing the faction when no one invested in the new faction with overpriced models and a very dubious future
People buy space marines bc they're cheap and they're guaranteed to get support in the future, (they're also customizable and easy to paint, which helps, but so are Necrons)
There's no fallacy brother space marines are literally just a safe bet
GW just likes riskless cash
I would personally play tau of they had more than 5 models
But marines are just money printers to their hound dog totally not weird community
Unfortunately GW's braindead schemes work really well
They completely fucked up the killteam release schluedes and everything still sold out instantly which is CRAZY
Also space marines are lowkey expensive af unless you mean third party
I saw a unit box for 70 bucks but idk if it was a gw store
GW likes to increase prices by 5-40% every few months
I've been a Sororitas fan for over a decade but the crummy and expensive metal models always kept me out of the hobby. They could definitely do better for the other factions and bring more people in. (RL reasons why I didn't start with their new plastic a few years back)
ITS ACTUALLY SO INSANE
very few companies do this, GW says its because on inflation, but it isnt
I'm not against new models for other factions but the reality is that cool niche lore unit is not guaranteed cash like space marines is my point
A few years back they broke several UK laws and nothing happened to them
Shocker!
GW is snorting so much cocaine in office they need those price hikes!
Totally understand. I'm currently looking at a nearly EMPTY webstore because they can't be bothered to supply my country with product. I want to buy another Kill Team to have it shipping to me while I finish my current one, but for over a week the stores been empty
Thats a huge issue I've heard for Polish players
I heard Poland literally just got their first GW store which is insane
No official GW store, one official reseller, but there's a FUCKTON of US military that play.
they break laws all the time, abuse the DMCA, abuse copyright, threatens people, sues people into homelessness, etc. its an awful company
Based mega corporation just like me fr
God i hate them
Cool lore tho!
I would only ever be painting minis due to GW so its a love hate relationship
Painting was a miracle for my mental health but then subsequently destroyed it with the feeling of inadequacy so i just dropped it
start it again
I'll give you some lessions
Its just difficult to come home after getting treated like a dog at work and then looking at other peoples paint jobs and feeling like a dog
Hard to break the barrier
So don't look at other peoples stuff
My expectations are way too high for my skill level
Grrrr simple solution
I HATE t when theres a very easy way to solve my problem
hah, I know easier said than done
I can def try that but it's also just my expectations of how my miniature looked in my head vs how it looks in front of me
But honestly, if painting helps deal with stress of work, paint for yourself
Thats probably the best advice I've ever gotten
I usually paint so i have pretty pictures to show off
naw, i'll break it
I do it all the time for people
I do teach art therapy after all
Painting has been helping me a lot recently and I feel a lot better. My hands are shakey AF and I've completely skipped the faces because after trying 3 I gave up, but the rest of the process has been very calming for me even if I know it's not what I wanted 100%. There's always next time and next model.
A huge issue i used to have was obsessinig over how my work in progress shit looked as well
Friend just told me to stop taking pictures and I was chilling for awhile
Truth!
Yep, phrase I heard recently was "Trust the process" and just ignore how it looks on step 2 of 20.
i suck at this lmao
you'd been painting for how long?
It'll be a year in 2 months
this one just drank their paint water by accident
I made pretty drastic leaps in progress but eventually (obviously) hit a standstill
But i think i will try again monday
I usually only get one day off a week
I see a full jar still.
Oooh Pally is painting Sisters!
you're new and you have no training, take a few lessions with me, i'll show you how to improve, also the only person you should ever compare yourself to is yourself not someone who's been painting for 150 years and licked a block of lead paint as a kid
LMFAO
your first step is, what are you trying to achieve. A normal tabletop standard? a tabletop plus? Competition showcase?
Im very serious about painting
I'm mainly in it for the game but im not in a rush
Tabletop plus likely
I don't want every model to take me over 20 hours but i dont want contrast paint base done
tabletop plus caan easily take 10-30 hours per model. Contrast paint isnt actually a bad option, you can get really impressive things with it if you adopt some more advanced techniques
But TT+ is a respectable want
showcase models are 300+ hours
My main focus is story telling in my models thats my shit
I also hate the look of eavy metal and in general most edge highlighting
then dont do it
You dont need to do that
i edge highlight with metallics to give a battle damaged look
Yup thats what i love
Man i really want to paint now
Might paint my ogryns
do it, and if you want someone to paint with at anytime, just hit me up
could you technially use these as proxy gaurdsmen?
in a gw tournament? no. At a LGS, most will let you do it but check before
you could use bottlecaps as proxy guardman for all i care if its friendliies
figured as much
just saw these and i wanna paint them even tough i still gotta finish my death korps guys lol
GW stores dont really allow proxies at all or 3d prints
yea i heard about that
most LGSs dont care
in fact a lot hate GW to the point they say "you should bring in 3d printed armies"

If you are playing with rogue trader rules you are expected to proxy things
was streaming painting for fun
and got to realize in front of multiple people i painted my cape backwards
You also didnt lick your brush or drink your paint water. Not a true hobbiest
xD
If the Radium Girls taught me anything, it's that licking your brushes is the worst mistake to make! (||Second would be trusting big corporations to protect employees instead of their bottom line||)
I had to stop myself multiple times from drinking the paint water; because I liked to always have a glass of water to actually drink from when painting as a kid.
I learned since then to just drink from a bottle instead
much safer
omg i love it
silly little guys
me running to play a friendly pick up game of murder rugby on the hobbiton green

And, Iām done with them. So many places I can improve but for now these lilāuns are ready to be stuck in a display case and await their opposing teams completion.
And yes, I cheated and stuck a bolter in the team instead of an autogun, gave the exactor a sword instead of a whip, and reliquarious has a bolt pistol instead of an auto pistol.
Next project was too appealing. Gotta figure out how to do the hand.
Copper started
First of many completed
my favourite diroama guy's made some wild west marines
#Warhammer #WildWest #SpaceMarines
This week, I decided it was time to make my first army for Warhammer. I decided that if I was going to make an army of Space Marines, they might as well all be cowboys as well.
The army will be on display at Colparās Hobby Town in Lakewood, CO
āāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāāā
Follow me on Instagram: @boyleihobbies...
Boylei you've done it again
Chapter Master done! Chapter Master Ramiel of the Knights Judiciar
that's based on the captain with relic shield, right? How easy was the head switch?
Head switch is very easy. Hard part was changing out the torso and legs for the Master Lazarus kit
The sword on his back is from the inner circle companions kit
oh that's clean
That's one pretty Knight!
A real good look 
As someone who needs to finish a project in one sitting or else they never revisit it, you scare me
don't think I've finished a model in one sitting in like 6 years
or well, I did that one 'speed paint' model last month which took 3 hours from clear plastic to finished
Thats just quitters talk
imagine taking breaks
man's gotta sleep
Who's Kiril
Kirill Kanaev
quite certainly, he has the time for it
Nope, because that would defeat my elitism
not even a lil coffin nap?
How long is your typical painting session?
That makes sense
I usually only painted for minimum 6 hours
I think my worst was 16 hours straight
I used to do that when I was jobless or on vacations but just can't anymore in addition to my day job
also did a couple around the clock sessions, didn't feel great for my back
I feel called out

21hrs straight...
Best time is Saturday for long painting sessions, also Friday night. Don't do Sunday due to Monday
Another tactical marine done, definitely liking how quick it is to do these guys
My first impression was that it's a bit too blue for oxidized copper, misses a green tint. But on second thought, it's your art and it looks fantastic.
fair enough and not yet fully complete š
going for a bit more vibrant look overall
Ugh I feel like painting 10 stormboyz and now having to paint 5 meganobz has sapped my will to paint and threw me headfirst into hobby burnout zone :/ I'm so upset
It seems like everything is going wrong today, I keep painting outside the line, my brushes keep fraying and I even did a base coat of a thicker color for my ushabti bone and the finish still came out feeling bumpy and rough
it is in fact not really too blue, this is verdigris pigment
and this is lab grown copper acetate, which is the same chemical as verdigris
different things will affect the look of copper
examples can also be found in paint like phthalo pigments
they are copper based pigments such as beta copper phthalocyanine(pb15:3), epsilon copper phthalocyanine(pb15:6) which are blues and polyclorinated copper phthalocyanine(pg7), bromated and chlorinated Copper phthalocyanine(pg36) and polychloro copper phthalocyanine(pg42) which are greens
There are more examples but yeah, verdigris has a huge range of colors
I think your brain is cool
i wonder how many hours total do you spend on a mini on average
Naw, my autism just picked pigments as my special interest over trains
It varies a lot, some take 12 and some 50
Some 4
That's cool looking
Is the body one of those new inner circle guys?
It is yeah
Inner Circle for the body and pistol arm, head is from a DA upgrade sprue, shield from Deathwing Knights, shoulder from an intercessor, cape and left arm from the company heroes ancient, and the backpack which is currently separate is from the Indomitus chaplain
All for a single captain worth 80 points
But the satisfaction of knowing mine is unique
Yeah I get that
And since I want an āAzraelā for my Successor but not have it be Azrael Iām gonna magnetize him to go from 40mm to 50mm bases
Does anyone know if the free Terminator always comes with a shield?
Want to go get it specifically so I have a shielded terminator for my SoT conversion and I'd rather not head all the way into the city and just get a random one I won't use
It's a deathwing knight, it always has a shield, yes.
See the verdigris in the picture above looks like what I expected, I had no idea about the range of blue tones.
yeah it can some in a ton of colors, including yellow, its all about what its exposed to while being out in the elements
can even be a super bright cyan like color

Here's what I loosely used as inspiration
This one's just a bit more warm than what I ended up with
And this
Yeah, top picture is what my mind expected, bottom pic is what I see in your photo of the mini.
Yes, the dude has no options, just the sword and shield.
Aight fuck yeah
It's all coming together
Finished my meganobz today. Got them tabletop ready,nothing more, I think I'm gonna take a break from painting or at least find a new way to paint yellow, I feel like I'm in a rut
Definition of trust the process.
Clean tank done; needs some wear and tear though
a rubber room.
the science behind verdigris is really interesting
i didnt go thin enough....
getting it thin enough takes a lot
Everyday i have to walk past my crime
strip it
Ephrael Stern?
she's looking healthier than she did in her old mini
I recently got the green stuff world paint remover and it worked really well
Though check if itās compatible with the material of the mini
Improvements on the already painted green areas and started to base the remaining areas for it
I think i am just going to take a break from painting white scars i just can't crack the code of not being artistically incompetent
However i am painting cool Japanese figures instead
partially, it causes polystyrene to degradate faster
(also despite their claims, its not the best stuff on the market, its just oven degreaser with marketing)
it smells like the old fairy power spray I used to use before they changed the formula to that
is there any way to tell which oven degreasers will work to save me poundcoins?
I dont know UK well degreasers unfortunately, I know biostrip works but I havent been able to get any to test it in a very long time to see if the forumla changed
caustic soda generally is fairly decent at removing paint
I make it myself when im too lazy to go out and buy LA's totally awesome
roughly a 10% solution is what does it
dont want to go higher
great blue, how did you achieve it?
The key to painting good white is not to paint white at all
That is primed with macragge blue, and itās just straight Vallejo game colour magic blue, with a little bit of water to keep it flowing
Paint a base coat of a gray, wash with light gray and slowly build up to lighter and lighter gray until you reach the top most highlight and do pure white
Use the macragge to be a nice dark blue for anything you canāt reach or want to have a depth or recess
Like look at this white scar
Very little of the armor is ACTUALLY white
prime grey seer
sepia wash
drybrush white scar
done
Exactly,
naw, just paint white
and then tone it down
vastly easier and quicker
Legit, you can save a few hours per model if you do light to dark
I told a friend I would paint some minis for him. Reeeeeally regretting it
These are some of the worst minis I've ever seen, like what the fuck is this
Show the minis
Wait, stern used to be a dreadnought?
looks good so far
those mold lines
š¤®
thats not even a you thing, thats a problem with the model as a whole
I told him "I'm sorry but I cannot paint these as good as o usually do, I'm gonna do a zenithal drybrush and contrast paint
And they're supposedly "pre primed" yet the contrast paint wouldn't even adhere
I did
Just cant do it right
What are you using?
Titanium White from golden acrylic, grey seer, and apothecary white. Probably going to drop the apothecary white for soulblight because the contrast paint is far too patchy on marines
But for some reason my golden acrylic paint is still incredibly runny
Like runnier than high flow
I did an apothecary white wash over the grey seer primer then drybrushed pure white
Highly recommend treating apothecary white as just a wash
it's kinda useless as a contrast paint IMO
I was using it as a wash
It's just too patchy for my liking, I'd prefer a solid base and not the swirly messy bits it leaves behind
Its okay i still love you
I use it as a wash over silver when I don't feel like wasting my precious old formula nuln oil
My plan is to battle damage the fuck out of it but i just dont like it rn
that's def from it pooling
It's like an aged wine
Most definitely
I painted white successfully once
it was many years ago
using my trusty tub of the worst white citadel paint ever made: ceramite white
I was painting a horus heresy world eater, I undercoated it silver and did 4 coats of white with a brown wash
I made the genius decision to pick up a new army of a notoriously difficult chapter to paint in the midst of an extreme hobby burnout and being over worked, hindsight is 20/20
BASE WORLD EATER THO
I think the worst paint ive ever used was Citadel's orruk flesh
I spent like 500 bucks resurrecting my old deathwatch project yesterday and have allowed my friends to select which chapters' shoulderpads go on each marine, with the stipulation I have to learn to freehand the ones I don't have shoulderpads for
Its literally jusf water
That's actually sick as hell
Deathwatch are criminally cool
They're awesome!
Not many of us deathwatch players left
our only unique model kits left are the watch master and corvus blackstar
and kill team cassius
Deathwatch have their own rules right?
Yea
but rumor is they're getting rolled together with inquisitors and agents for the new codex
which is fine by me
I have my watch captain artemis model and I'm forever grateful that I do
I thought these were official Wotc minis for dnd and was confused by the lack of quality
But I just went to the shop and looked, and the Dnd minis look fine. these have to be some knockoff of a knockoff for how bad these are
shake it a lot
I see the issue already, use it more as aa pin wash than an all over wash
the D&D minis are low end as a whole, but yeah that flash is awful
Exactly, I remember them being sub pat but paintong these is gonna SUCK
More than 3 minutes?
it being more runny than high flow is very odd, also you can call golden, tell them the issue and they are more than likely going to send you a replacement
the fluids are very thin though
high flows are just thinner
I got some extra sisters heads that I mounted on paper clips to practice with
and im ordering some really cheap bulk female faces off the internet to practice
PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT
I painted a word bearer master of possession. Not -quite- finished but I'd put him on a tabletop.
second try at OSL.
looking forward to eventually shooting these guys in darktide
God I hope so.
That or a wildcard option: I think Necrons would be a sick second faction
Same kinda shambling undead horde vibe but a little more ranged-oriented with some neat I-can't-believe-it's-not-pyschic shenanigans
siiiiick
They put badrukk in legends, I am beyond upset
I didn't even get to fucking use him
What am I gonna do with all My flash gitz now
you can still use him in casual games
Which drill bit size are you using? I was trying to drill a foot last night because the palatine only has a single small contact with the base. Even a 0.8mm was scaring me with how big it was compared to Sisters.
Not to mention the hand I just gave up on drilling.
ahh, was hoping for some tips on Sisters. Everything I find is big chonky boys like Marines and paperclips.
Which heads did you order? Myminifactory?
ebay auction of 50 random bits heads for 10 bucks
Ooh, That'd do it as well
Most sisters kits leave you with a bunch of spare heads bc they tend to have the option to choose between hairstyles/helmeted so it should be reasonably easy to find some secondhand heads on facebook market/ebay/miniswap etc
I'm pretty sure I have like 10 of the He-Man looking heads and I don't even play sisters and have almost no intention outside of maybe painting a chaos corrupted Novitiates kill team down the line
heresy
Its hard for me to justify collecting sisters when anything I like about them is covered by thousand sons generally. I like the flamers and magic tricks and glass cannon style but I kinda prefer the flavour of how ksons presents it
Plus I'd rather shit in my hands and clap than paint that much cloth lol
I really dont like miracle dice as a mechanic tbh
I do like the half strength rules though
I just love the models a lot, and the theme
Yeah I have a friend who collects them he's similar, I think Sisters players are similar to admech players, people just kinda decide they like the faction and tend to ignore meta or anything else around them bc Nuns with Guns is cool and most of their rules support the theme well
what the fuck who says that oh my god lmfao
that is the craziest thing ive ever heard
i read that as i was playing vermintide and my friend and i are just having a fit over it im just sold
https://youtu.be/hXiCV06IoHo?si=IW5Owe8AOrIQpoWT
It's from the Big Lez show
All credit goes to its respective owners! (Big Lez Show, Jarrad Wright, etc)
Thanks for watching I'd rather shit in my hands and clap from the Big Lez Show!
Subscribe for the funniest BLS/MNS moments!
Sassy Funniest Moments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kPap19VH7sg
Clarence Funniest Moments: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WGdLR...
I'm so glad this is the only significant cultural export my country has ever contributed to society at large
Genuinely caught me off guard i was choking on pure hysteric
jumpscare
You should see this one mini i got its 99% folded cloth
it takes some time to get used to them
think of them as prethinned
ONE TANGERINE
TWO TANGERINE
OOOO
OOOOO
THREE TANGERINES
OOOOOOHH I'M GONNA USE THESE MONEY TO FEED THE O'PHANS
idk why thats my favorite scene in the whole thing lol
love clarence he deserves better
T_T
How hard do you guys think cel shading is
Pretty hard but shit looks good
This mf would simply be attractive with a bright and cheerful art style
The chaotic novitiates would be interesting. Sucks the models have the habit as part of the body and the face is literally a faceplate slipped into the habit. Those fuckers are so small!
On second thought, if I had the bits and a little more experience Iād change their heads out and do all that cutting and modeling so I never have to paint those things again!
or you could just use some extra sisters heads
BSS with no helmet is just a generic angry female head sculpt basically
Thatās a head
I carved the flamer rebreather mask of one of those little things so it fit into a second model. That may be my proudest edit of the novitiates. Those things SUCK
Yāall wanna send some of these extra heads youāre talking about my way? Would love the spare heads to kitbash sisters of silence as female crusaders!
Whereabouts are you country-wise? I could send bits but international shipping out of australia is unreasonably expensive
Haha South Korea. I was joking. Might buy some bss for heads and models but right now Iām looking at the blooded and gellerpox boxes my local store just got.
Sisters of silence are always in stock and can be acquired anytime. Kill teams sell out quick
Blooded team is a bit of a weird one I think Pingus was the one complaining about it, but you essentially can't build the full team out of one box and you always need to buy at least two and have random spare useless minis
Gelllarpox was my original idea⦠then blooded also came and I can make a diorama with the novitiates. Gellerpox is 20+models
Hierotek circle is similar but it's easier to find those extra deathmark/immortals (Or just do what I did and build all deathmarks and buy cheap royal wardens to run as immortals)
Iām not playing them⦠my novitiates have 3 bolt guns, 2 flamers, and just all kinds of nonsense that was fun to build more than play.
Having two of your HQ options not be buildable from the box and deliberately on bases that are 10mm shorter so you can't proxy is such an insanely scumbag move from GW tho
Yee I gotchu lol
Currently taking one of the banners from novitiates and bashing it into a palatine because it looks cool.
Inquisitorial Agents box is kind of like that. 12 options, but 6 models. And not even a full team
But since we got a grot vehicle detachment in thr ork codex I'm gonna start painting my grot tanks but I'm gonna do them in orange instead of yellow. Signify that the grots in my army were once prisoners of the orks but no longer!
blooded has the beautiful chaos ogryn tho
that model is so cool
I got two novitiates boxes at a really good price and I am going to build the kill team once I get better at faces
but its also nice to have because you can kitbash any sororitas character from the whats in the box
so its a really good value if you want to make all those sororitas characters and dont have the know/means/inclination to print them yourself yarrr
(sororitas characters are insanely overpriced its unreal)
Are they more expensive than other factions'?
Seems pretty similar to other ranges ngl
its rough imo, the pricing. should be like 10 bucks for aestred, not 40
but people buy it so I guess the price is right

The amount of plastic and model count isn't directly in correlation to the final price. No kit will cost less than X ā¬/$/Ā£ when no matter the amount of models in it. The more you have usually the cheaper the single model within usually costs for GW to produce/ship so it kinda feels odd when you just look at single models
But after you think about the costs behind the product it makes more sense
yea but thats just bad value. theres nothing about the sororitas sculpts that are more complex or harder to design than the squads themselves
the plastic is cheap
the sculpt is expensive if you count the cost of designers but way more scultping goes into a squad, especially something like the BSS
Doing a single sculpt is not much easier than many similar sculpts especially nowadays with digital sculpting when you can reuse lots of the assets
the only thing that has value is the "IP"
theres nothing in the production line that justifies those prices. its purely a "because people will" type deal
I dont blame GW at all, if raising prices doesnt lower demand
clearly the fair price point is higher

There is lots of free space in the pricing for sure but not ridiculously I feel
But im not paying that, its not worth it to me, its a horrible mark up made to gouge whales and stupid people
they are making more money now then they ever have been in history
they could literally afford to lower prices and still be making more money than they did 3 years ago
but a corporation cannot do that, it has to set the highest price possible
they have a legal obligation to do so, its literally required by law to be profit driven
if you look at other model companies that produce similar quality models GWs prices are almost double what smaller, lower volume companies are producing (and lower volume means lower ROI)
and im talking the very high quality sculpts GW makes, Im not saying their products arent very high quality
(outside of FW)
Like you can have a model kit with a single model with the base price of say $30, then adding another model to it doesn't automatically mean the price doubles, lots of the work for the kit is already done with the first model, package size and manufacturing costs. Another model realistically probably means more of an 20% increase rather than 100% and the increase lessens for each similar model added to it. Until the sprue size needs to be larger when all the other expenses will increase exponentially so then you want to use multiples of that sized sprue to again minimize the sunk cost to that specific kit and so on
Yea but 30 is already something on offer with a huge amount of profit baked in
if it was 30 to produce a kit like say
lets say this is really the base price of a single kit, no matter how many models it has
then why can competitors offer similar quality for 1/3 the price?
the first thing I think of is higher cost of labor in england
I'm sure they have a nice profit margin in the kits they manufacture but nothing as wild as you probably think they do
the second thing I think of is that 40ks IP is so valuable they can charge more
demand is higher for 40k IP products than 3rd party products
well the cost of production is REALLY low so its all about the initial cost
of like the designing and manufacture of the molds
but I think its really hard to estimate that because like, they would pay basically the same amount to have the infrastructure to produce new molds and sculpts wether they made any particular kit or not
Yes those are the main cost sink rather than the actual production line for them
Yea but they arent paying per kit, they are paying for the entire infrastructure
so its not productive to thing in terms of like say
It cost 550000 USD to set this model up
to be produced for 1 cent forever
because they would have spent that money ANYWAY
because they need an entire factory that does these things regardless of any particular model coming out
if they never made a single character ever again they would spend the same amount of money
because they need a constantly supply of new models and molds to drive revenue
so its more the cost of ALL new models/sprues for a given block of time
and theyve shown they can pass value onto the consumer with kits like battle sisters or admech
who are incredibly detailed, on the level of the characters
with their basic infantry squad
maybe im rambling lol... I agree with what you are saying
but I think the big cost differance is that the 40k IP is so valuable to consumers they can charge more
and I do think they are pricing out a lot of people with those prices overall it drives revenue for them because whales are better customers than
you know
the average gamer
and I agree with the fact that the IP will increase the price but I don't think that matters more than 10% of the final price, if even that
maybe, it would be interesting to see.
I think things like brexit, cost of living and cost of labour in britain are a huge factor too
GW probably takes decent care of its work force
certainly and the price of shipping from china has also quadrupled during covid (books)
Well, we know the books are definitely way over priced because there are A LOT more competitors
to compare pricing on
and they do things like bundle the overpriced books with other products
thats why they are so anti piracy, because the actual value of the book is low so you dont want to buy it unless you ABSOLUTELY HAVE TOO
thats why they went back on the rules are free if you subscribe to warhammer plus
the rules app doesnt have the codexes unless you put a code into your warhammer+ account
pretty shipping a container filled with books costs more than the manufacturing of said books at this time
its up, but not that much
I ship things from china regularly and at least for personal freight its not much higher
hmm do some preliminary googling I guess its MUCH worse for freight shipping so like
it wouldnt affect the goofy things i buy
yeah an average Joe hasn't gotten hit that hard, at least yet
pre/post houthi shipping crisis
also I do believe that the current round of GW price increases happened pre this event so
it was about a year ago iirc
I can appreciate them trying to keep production local but its clear that they cant scale their production to meet demand (of customers or sculpters) which sux
they have to keep cancelling products because they cant afford to make so many different models
they did start building a new factory last fall too iirc
yea I heard that
who knows how long that will take
in the short term they have to cancel a lot of projects that people want
and stop serving the international market
LGS got screwed out of a lot of new products because GW cant support the demand from them and stock their own stores
i saw people say that it was a conspiracy to screw LGS again (which GW has done multiple times before) but imo its all related to the production bottleneck
Yeah I'm 100% it's just production issues rather than any planned malice
40k demand has like, quadrupled in the last 4 years
covid got a lot of new people into the models
And Primaris saved GW regardless of what anyone says 
it was weak overall but I get the scale issues
I just really hate how most primaris designs look
so GOOFY xD
in all honesty there's like two that are actually a bit goofy, the rocket dudes and the kart
rest are fine to excellent
Phobos armor my beloved ā¤ļø
I just wish there were more tanks with dreads
YIKES
still better than the attack bike 
Driver would be so deaf
I have zero problems with the hellblasters tho:
if you want to hear more about the production pipeline of GW, the Painting Phase youtube channel has two podcasts with a ex-GW middle manager or whatever who was heavily involved in the production side of things during until the 8th edition or so. He has given quite nice insight of how things like Contrast paints and such were developed
these were before Peachy left the channel
We chat to the veteran hobby product designer Tom Hibberd! If you've used Citadel tools, paints, contrast paints, brushes, dice, chances are this chap had a hand in designing them. We cover lots of topics like why doesn't Games Workshop make a wet palette? Why is Corax White so bad? And much much more.
Tom has his own Airsoft channel please go ...
this guy
there's one more episode with him a few months after this episode iirc
Alot of the former gw employee stories are very eye opening
it would be a cool company to work for š

probably, though the pay isn't the greatest apparently
Phobos armour my BELOATHED 
Say goodbye to your ears
Arenāt those helmets void sealed? Dudes got his noise cancelling BigEPods in and blasting his hymn playlist while driving. If itās a guardsmen then Iād be worried.
They probably do have some fancy earpro, but he's still directly under it
Which is why I think most of the HQs you see are just kitbash of a few simple models or add necromunda Escher gang bits. The actual HQs are rarely seen when Iām googling for ideas.
I still have the two handed ādrawing out a power swordā hands and I NEED something to use them. Was going to do it on the Palatine but it doesnāt line up well. Might kitbash another palatine with a different body later. So many good lil bits. (Except autoguns.. fuck the autoguns are ugly)
I dont understand what they were thinking with designs like that. That image looks like what a hotwheels collab with 40k i imagine looking like.
I wish GW would make updated chaos terminators for their 10th edition loyalist counterparts
Yeah and they have the issue of being monopose and built in a way where it's hard to kitbash/swap parts on them easily which sucks
Tbh roughly 30 dollars is relatively normal for a single character in most independent ventures and skirmish game projects
At least from what ive seen
I've seen a lot
tabletop games are insanely niche so you put a higher cost on them to counter act that, however with the rise of 3d printing theyve become more popular. No one really got into them because they were expensive and because they were seen as super negative
if we want to talk about outragious, we should be rioting at the cost of hobby paints
Yes! Thats the major issue with GW pricing imo
Holy fuck dude 50 bucks for 55 points for my guardsman army! But thankfully guard often have massive bundles
2thin coats is also more expensive than citadel
The warhammer army boxes are pretty good value imo
20 guardsmen and 2 tabks for 210
God i still have 40 guardsmen to assemble...
I have 200 necrons to assemble and paint
and 2 leviathan boxes
Why are you
Easy, just gotta spray them silver and dip them in Nuln oil 
No

all at SMC levels
Feel like it's an overly complicated technique and even when it's done incredibly well 95% of the time it still looks worse than if you'd just painted it normally
its not overly complicaated, its actually stupidly easy. Its something you learn day 1 in art school and its considered a low skill brainless technique
but this is how fine art views it
They want more metallics over there
Very complicated 
doing fake gold leaf with paint is considered high skill
which I do most days as temp repair
How do i drybrush correctly? Everytime i try it either turns out thick and uneven or too light and dusty. I have some specialised drybrushes, a gw sable S,M drybrush aand only of the army painter angled ones. I just need to know how to do ot correctly
I feel like nmm has a time and a place and only certain styles support it fully in miniatures
Eavy metal style with nmm makes me vomit
i mean I can teach you, its really not that had
I wanna paint my little samurai dudes in a comic style
you want very very little amounts of paint on there, thicker paint is better. SO soft or heavy bodied will give you a better effect than a thinned one
Thanks for the offer, but brain too small to understand directional lighting and I've no desire to learn it because I dislike it's results.
You dont actually need to understand it funny enough, but its less about doing a non metallic metal and more about the concept of highlighting as a whole
thats all NMM is
just high lighting and understanding midtones
glazing and blending are in there
and blending is vastly simpler the way you're supposed to do it, not the way hobby people do it
light to dark, not dark to light
makeup brushes, save tons of money and dont buy hobbiest dry brushes. chunky and round tips. https://youtu.be/1LMjHjzuUEM?si=UBUiecBm6GMqDMo2
Dry brushing is a miniature painting technique that every painter should understand and use. Learn more (whether you already know how to drybrush or are a total beginner) in this video and start using this excellent technique today.
Check out Teri Litorco - https://www.youtube.com/user/thatterigirl
And her favorite drybrushes - https://www.elfc...
Uncle Adam's got a rather soothing voice. Fun to listen while painting.
I finally got around to do more models
I present you
Loyalist beastmen
I still need to do some touchups, I havet touched greenstuff in like 4 months
Love the hat, makes it look so goofy.
Thats how you know he's loyal
an NMM necron would take me 20 or 30 minutes, maybe 3 hours if im trying
speaking of which, here are some proper color wheels for you @silver thorn
and a CMY educational wheel
So from my minimal reaserch into drybrushing today heres my limited understanding tell me if i got anything wrong
- Dont use thin paint
2.use a texture pallete not a paper towel
3.wet the brush a small bit on a damp sponge - Use a soft makeup brush if possible
- Do soft circular motions not up and down
I hear that texture palates are a hoax
First half of the tactical squad battle ready
Texture palette is like buying a wet palette, if you want to spend sure⦠but a piece of cardboard works just as well if youāre worried about the paper towel getting in the paint.
Up and down works as well as circles. It depends on the surface and how youāre applying. Example, coils of a plasma. Up and down on the coils will get just the edges, circular would spread around.
Using my buddyās spare tau breachers as test models for my next army. Any opinions on the above two schemes?
Assuming you're going for a Farsight Enclaves army? They both look good, but also very standard FSE scheme.
Yes Iām going FSE
The right one will have the FSE emblem on the shoulder pad in the final version
I think I prefer the darker red on the right scheme
So red fatigues with grey armor panels
Not necessarily. It would look cool with red panels and grey fatigues too (both are equally cool looking imo) but just keep the red the darker shade like you have on the right fatigues
you dont need a texture pallete, I use my desk and i dont notice a difference. Also you can do up and down, it just requires a soft touch
marginally, not entirely.
they do something, just not if youre using small bits of paint
Ahh okay, and wetting the brush. Do I just tap the brush on the wet sponge?
yes, but I dont do that as it tends to make things harder for what i want
saved
actually super useful thank you
figured you needed a decent one
Continuing the test paint schemes. Basically both are the same with one that has brighter highlights on the grey and camo fatigues while the other has more subtle highlights with the FSE emblem on the shoulder pad and plain red fatigues. Which one of these two looks better scheme wise? @naive umbra
That website is like ancient pre-google style. There's a walking cat gif above a search bar that explains what a searchbar does!
But the wheels look detailed! And half of the wheel just blurs out for my colorblind eyes!
But much like pre-google and finding an amazing detailed niche website, that site has a TON of information. Formatting can make your eyes bleed but wow, it's like one artists personal wikipedia of paint!
True, not a single ad on the site
sounds like you need new eyes
As the resident drybrusher
-
yes absolutely
-
Either is fine, texture pallete will remove less paint which makes it better for lower/middle layers and getting more paint down, paper towel is usually best for at least your last layer so it naturally forms a kinda volumetric highlight by covering less
-
Yeah funnily enough you do not actually want a dry brush while you're doing it lmao
4: Makeup brush is best for smooth, even drybrushing that wants to be a kind of "half coat" that shows the colour underneath (which I'm assuming you've been mostly using this for Ork skin which tracks as I find makeup brushes are much better for round/smooth sculpts like Ork arms.)
A brush you don't respect/a cut up piece of sponge is really good for anything you want to have a textured or uneven drybrush finish for (Painting rust, layering the skin on big colourful minis, highlighting natural stone or anything where you want visible paint in the highlights without covering too much underneath) and ear cleaning cotton buds are good for drybrushing things that require a bit more precision/if you like working reductively with paint, they're good for dabbing some paint on and then using the other side to remove a little, ends up giving you an effect that's sorta like a "dry" wash
- Depends on what you're going for, circular drybrushing will get you more coverage and get the paint to settle in more spots that it wouldn't normally, especially when you mix it with the makeup brush but doing it in one direction usually works better for naturally highlighting the mini and implying source lighting/just is a bit more natural to the sculpt. I think the big obvious example is Tyranid gaunts/gants: you almost always wanna drybrush their carapace from head to tail, like the same direction you'd pet them if they were a cat
A unit of loyalist World Eater Paladins who are able to redirect damage onto themselves in an aura would be such a solid bodyguard unit, I really wish they'd do something with that concept bc it's sick af and it's always seemed kinda bizarre to me how they literally have Angrons geneseed and never made a successful version of that
ULGO MAKE MISTAKE!!! ALL SENT WERE RECIEVED HAVE TOO MANY OGRYNS
Never enough ogryns
Termie chappie done
Tried touching up my kommando boss
Yeah Iāve found that you basically have to homebrew it, Iām running my world eater chapter as a blood angel successor as Iām saying the bezerkers rage is a gene seed defect like the black rage
Painting my Ahriman disc, going for an enchanted stone statue kinda vibe, gonna paint the horns/spikes with a similar colour blend and then do a super heavy white drybrush
I have the dirty down moss FX paint and I'm super tempted to use it on the edges/underside but I'm not sure if that's going to ruin it. Yay or nay?
???
a bot posted a link to a booby server in this chat
Heresy
@plush swift how long should you wait with varnishing a model if you applied an oil pin/recess wash to it?
6 to 8 months, this has to do with the gas releases of the oil
sometimes you can get away with in after a month or two in some cases
but general practice is 6-8
I have always thought Tau are going to be easy to paint. Boy was I wrong. The scheme didnt turn out how i wanted it, but oh well...
I want to oil pinwash my legion imperialis solar aux tanks, and have some pigment weathering for dust effects on the lower part of the tanks. My idea was to airbrush the base layers, do metallics, any chipping, tracks (with a pigment wash), and decals, then varnish, oil pinwash, wait for oil to cure, dust effects, then varnish again. Does this sound like a decent plan? Could I do the oil pinwash last, after the dust effects, or would it ruin the look?
you probably don't need to varnish in between the oils and pigments
and varnish will dull the pigments a lot
most people just leave it as the last step and leave it as is
I wanted to varnish to seal in the pigments so they won't rub off. Won't that be an issue?
I only have a mountain of unpainted models & am starting assembling/painting an Aeldari army for a friend...so of course when I feel an impulse...I Impulse.
Some will rub off but anything in crevasses where you can't touch it ought to be fine, and even if the largest chunks fall off it will still look chalky on the area it was on. I've added pigments to most of my Ultramarines and they're all fine still-
varnishing will make it look like nothing at all was placed there
I've also used pigment binder which works a bit better but still dulls it out a lot
Honestly the best starting point is probably checking out the Warhammer youtube channel and seeing if those tutorials are any help
hmmm, gotcha
its best to use a pigment setter like diluted pva glue
game peice or shelf?
depends on what you're after, personally i find that 99% mini painter guides are useless and grossly over complicate simple things like blending
true, generally i like to visualize the colors I want and then eyeball it, however I don't know how to do like anything
all i've painted was a death guard squad, and they where painted in one go and don't look very good
dunno how or what a double coat is etc...
There are a few programs that can help with that
https://bolterandchainsword.com/bcp/smp.php this website is awful but its free
The Space Marine Painter : A Bolter and Chainsword 40k Resource.
Game piece
For the tracks I was planning to use airbrush thinner (since I already have the stuff and supposedly it's not great for what it's meant for) mixed with pigment as a dispersion, maybe the same could work for the lower hulls?
Thanks for your insight
varnish it
question fellas
i can field a field ordinance battery for my guard without the guardsmen models on it right? like just the gun emplacement its self?
cause i do not have tweezers and cannot be assed to build those guardsmen models with glue covered hands rn 
official rules require the models to be fully built so ask your TO

as long as it's on the correct base size and your opponent is aware (if it's a casual game nobody is going to give a shit) you should be fine
awesome
dont see myself running tournaments anytime soon
but thanks corpsey/siggy for the info
cause MAN i do not like the gunner model for that battery
tournament painting rules are stupid
they should be way more intense
man i cant wait to finally play combat patrol tho

never played the tabletop before
pretty hype
I drilled out my screen and put an led in there
I didnt want to paint it
no
should I put a little gloss coat on the screen
starting up a little kill team! finally getting into it, after playing Heresy for the better part of 3 years
Yesterday was an election so I had the whole day off to paint. Now to base her!
Iām so happy they un-squatted the squats. Canāt wait to see further models for them.
iām in love with em, favourite models right now
Choose your fighter
So I have a big old bottle of vallejo mecha white airbrush primer I bought a few years back and now that I have an airbrush I can finally use it, what's the thinning ratio for mecha white primer? Do I have to thin it at all?
shouldnt need to be thinned in theory but depends on how thick it is
I got the vallejo game paint white primer and it was the most miserable paint I've used. No idea about their mech line but maybe test it on a single model instead of priming a couple at the same time.
They tend to not need to be thinned but play it by ear, you're going for the consistency of milk generally
Also I can't tell if I've ruined the disc with the moss effect or if I've just spent too long staring at it critically
Ended up going for a sorta Slaan priest throne but in sandstone but I just really can't tell if it looks bad or if I need to go in with fresh eyes later
@plush swift I'll try thinning it. That thinner+slowdry stuff you gave me is good for airbrush yes?
tbh the pigmentation in it is so low, thinning it will cause problems
i hate vallejo products for a reason
ive used their white primers before, they are already super watery
love the pose but it might be a nightmare to put her in cover
technically she can be shot at if the banner sticks out xD
it looks really nice but put the model on it to check
maybe the base will be too visually interesting and distract from the model
if its a tzeentch demon that's blue/ purple
then the only green in the composition is on the base
it will be the first thing the eye is drawn too
No, its just there for convience
Tried using rustoleum white primer and it was the worst primer I've ever used
It's still wet 2 hours later and it pooled in all the recesses
all spray can white primers are bad
they also all contain kaolin
its an extinct pigment, its also very opaque. Only minorly toxic as in its known to burn the skin a little with you touch it
i have some
Good thing sheās a display piece and cost more than a whole box of sisters.
Also⦠I had to completely amputate the arm on the banner and the model so thereās several points of rebuild there⦠when I finally glued it I couldnāt get it to stay as vertical as I originally planned
My father in law gave me this with the airbrush stuff. Can I use it as airbrush thinner?
no
And these
its a very different type of acrylic
you can use those but be careful with vallejo
test it first, they use a very old school binder that doesnt work with most modern solutions
its just pure low percentage polyurethane
Okay, I think I'll just play it safe and order some vallejo airbrush thinner
seriously dont thin the primer
i'll show you what happens when you do
its worse than rustoleum
Okay, just straight primer?Not even flow improver?
The flow improver will make it pool into all the crevices
the stuff as a whole doesnt like to adhere
so you have to work around that
Which primer are you using? Is it acrylic-polyurethane? Because those will absolutely need thinning unless you want to clog your airbrush
its vallejo white
which if you thin that it will just fuck right up
haven't used their white primer but the black and grey ones will need thinning
The white if you thin it you'll need 3-5 coats to get a smooth coat
and it will pool in everything
its so bad
I still think it's better than clogging the aribrush
it will ruin the model if you thin it
like flat out
its really that bad
it just pools
to my experience even overly thinned primer can be used if you just manage the output carefully and don't linger on the same area too long
not this stuff
ive used all the versions, mecha, normal and premium
this pools when thinned and doesnt adhere when thinned
is it that different from the black one?
I see
also ive never had a clog with vallejo primer unthinned through an airbrush, but I also strain my paint prior
what needle size
hm, I've got the same one and it regularly clogs unless thinned
are you straining it?
try straining it, it helps a lot
primers like vallejo surface primer like to dry in the bottle and it will have small flakes in there
do you strain it straight to a container that you will use in that session or do you strain a large quantity and seal it for later use
into the airbrush or cup before you pour it into the airbrush
This is Vallejo white primer thinned 3 paint to 1 water
@brisk vapor
WHen I say bad, I mean bad
they are chemically identical to acrylic paints for the most part
would've thunk the latex-y finish meant otherwise
nope, thats just pure polyurethane
a higher percentage in the paint
most paint will turn into a latexy finish, its just not as notiable
well true enough, seen enough dried out pots
if you add a solvent, it will become sandable
Do you want the BASF handbook? Its about house paint mostly but artist acrylics are very similar to house paints and in a lot of cases, just down right identical
artist acrylics evolved from house paints
the history behind acrylics is very long and very interesting
Sure but I'm not much of a reader tbh
dont worry, its only several hundred pages
but its good to have if you're curious why a paint isnt working
it can tell you how to fix weird things
Cheers, I'll check it out later
This is why I listen to your advice and I've never been steered wrong
yeah, I use autoborne primer these dyas
I just don't trust the Vallejo white primer xD, tried it start with no thinner and that shit didn't do anything
Black primer is fine, haven't tried grey yet
the grey was ok at best for a hobby product, which probably will be raved about by a lot of people
If I need a white base coat, prime black the use pale blue grey to get a start of my white
if I need a white base coat I just use a good paint
Fair
personally I use golden high flow
Okay, I use pale blue grey because it just covers well over black and kinda looks like white, if I need to do highlights I can use actually white mixed in
Perfect for slap chop or zenny
fair, if Im doing a white base coat, its not to paint white in most cases
its so i can get bright colors
I did BT for abit
Now I use it for my HH ultramarines
One shoulder white, makes them stand out more and looks less like a sea of blue
The problem I'm having is it NEEDS to be white because I'm painting clone armor
š¤
Airbrush, extremely thin coats will allow for you to prime black then work your way up to a solid white
Still having 0 problems whith white scar rattle can... my apothecary turned out nice...
Just built these guys, looking forward to painting them
hell yeah
ty ty, yeah im due for a third one i have too much paint
What's funny about that is anytime you talk to a canvas artist who does hundreds of hours of airbrushing a month, That's counter to what they say. They say never use black as a base because white is to transparent and will make it way harder to get a smooth coat.
It's just interesting the differences between the hobby community and the professional community, like there's a ton of differences between methods
Be careful with that brush restorer, It will kill sable hairbrushes really quickly because it contains a lot of solvents that will chew through the glue in them.
thanks for the tip it works really well with paints staining and adhering to the Sable brushes
if the paints are adhering to sable brushes, you need to clean them quicker with brush soap like the masters or dirty dog. They are growing in price because the weasel they use had to be mostly killed off because they spread covid since they share an almost identical immune system to humans, so the brushes are becoming increasingly rare and they are required for the medical industry and art sciences, so be very careful with the ones you have
acrylics kill the brushes fast enough
Also if you're in the US, they are illegal to import so the stocks for them are dwindling and a few companies illegally import them, mostly hobby companies, so once the government finds out, those companies wont exist anymore(artist opus, army painter, etc) its several hundred million in fines
I'll fly to Russia with my club and take some sables home
Yeah it's the disc for my Ahriman. Plan was to have him largely in white with some purple/red accents
Inspired by this but with more white
Hey quick question
are the alpha legion a playable faction in 40k

nvm i just found the models, for some reason i could NOT find them

new question being how the hell would i start collecting/building alpha legion if i decided to
BLOOD FOR THE BLOOD GOD SKULLS FOR THE SKULL THRONE
Okay so there's this thing where GW hates chaos
Basically the way chaos works rn is
Thousand Sons have their own models and codex
Death Guard have their own models and codex
World Eaters have their own models and codex
Emperors Children will presumably get their own models and codex sometime in the near future
Everything else (including Emps children rn) is kinda just lumped into the Chaos Space marine codex as far as rules and don't really have proper support as far as models and special datasheets aside from a few token ones here and there, which is annoying if you like Alpha Legion, Nightlords, Iron Warriors or Word Bearers bc a lot of the troop options end up kinda looking like generic Black Legion painted a different colour
For collecting Alpha Legion: if you really want them to look right: they have a bit of support in the Horus Heresy minis and you should be able to use them as more suitable-looking AL sculpts if you wanted but a lot of HH stuff is resin which isn't as nice to build as normal GW plastic. Otherwise it's fine to just buy generic chaos space marine kits and paint them in AL scheme
That's not really a chaos specific thing, all factions have subfractions which do not have proper representation, pretty much only Marines and Chaos Marines have access to subfraction specific codexes and models
Not as bad as CM, they're getting shafted
We love some night lord shots
my heresy army, won a few awards with em
brother asked me what I want for my birthday
do I dare ask for
the warmaster titan
YES
Yes
There is no debate that thing is awesome
A reaver Titan comes up to the top of its legs
I mean those plasma are terrifying
I has quite comfortably taken on two warlords at once and come up with only minor damage
did you see the posing I got on my last cerastus
also remember, I don't play so this is simply a showcase model
look at this monstrosity
The boi!
The posing is great, heās about to slap a poor bastard
I managed to get my desired pose from this
which I wanted for a while
also the raised leg is standing on a spare questoris arm I had
Oooh yeah youāve done good there
sooooooo happy w/ how it tuyrned out
I gave up on the above and TRIED this pose but ended up actually getting the one I wnated first
mu only problem now is colour scheme
I was gonna do a nice red and bronze
but I ALSO wanna do a colour scheme inspired by V.IV Rusty
You not keeping with the other knights youāve painted?
Well actually I suppose these are all display pieces so fair enough
every knight so far is a different colour
My questoris is a dark green and bronze
My Lancer is orange and white w/ silver trim
My Acheron is purple and black w/ silver trim
Oh yes i can only remember the Acheron
my beloved
So you going for greys and such?
Thatāll look good
Would a house Terryn blue be the kind youāre looking for?
hmmmmmmmm maybe
I haven't really painted many blues actually
unless it's plasma
so yeah we'll got for Rusty's palette
Fair play
Rusty!
Apprentek for a Necron kill team
ahhhhhhh okay okay i see š¤ wonder when weād ever get alpha legion codex š¤£š¤£
Thanks for the clarification man i was hella confused about it
not sure what paint i use for the armour trim
kantor blue looks good for the plating
but
hmmm
What you looking for? A silver or grey?
Perhaps like a Corvus black trim and then dot the bolts with like eshin grey?
prussian blue or anthraquinone
the skeleton's had a leadbelcher prime and then a HEAVY drybrushing of iron warriors
to get the darker metal that rusty has
There also looks to be a bronze-y gold-y colour as a tertiary/highlight on Rusty

I do!
considering all I have are citadels, Kantor looks like it fits the best for Rusty's blue
Its an extinct pigment im trying to revive
same, this one is much harder to make
Anyone have experience with Vallejo mud?
this is called Cobalt tutti frutti, so i call it pv49
yes
the 90s loved this color
How difficult is it to apply?
Incredibly, you need to use a tool and then put it on a base and then call it a day so it can dry for like an hour
the incredibly was sarcasm
its very easy
its not that bad of a product
Gotcha. Swapping to that for weathering vehicles like tanks
its ok on tracks, its not great for everything else
its better for basing
its very thick and gel like which makes it a bit tricky for weathering purposes
you can do it, but you need to figure out a method that works for you, me personally I have a dead brush that I cut up and use that to apply things like that
Yeah itāll be for tracks. I have other weather powders and stuff for other areas. And yeah Iāve got an old brush that should work great
its an old W&N monarch brush
so its a little stiff
which helps provide extra texture
I cut off the tip
Bingo thatās pretty much what Iāve got
perfect
Just need to do some clean up on the bases but here are my Shadow over Innsmouth inspired Genestealer Cult
I think iron warriors trim
i love it!
One word: Japan
Current progress on a loyalist leviathan siege dreadnought
Got quite a bit more to do for him yet
Ooh that's hot
Ayyy, another loyalist traitor legion, love to see it
Iām doing the same with world eaters
Nice
"Oi one of them beakies lost their armor!.. its a bit snug"
āFOR DA EMPRAH!ā

