#40k-minis-and-armies
1 messages · Page 101 of 1
yeah I made one and he looks sad because he cant stand on his own lol
I am sorry to bother but i must ask one more thing, how long does the ink usually take to dry?
bro sulphurhounds are such a cool model
the fabricator general: ABOMINABLE INTELLIGENCE PROFANES THE OMNISSIAH'S WORK
the fabricator general and the sulphurhound after 1 day
depends on the ink, but generally about the same as paint, sometimes longer depending on the brand
but they are all around the same amount of time
no problem
Started painting the deff dredd
I
Fucking
HAAAAAATE
Painting this model
It's a paint to hold, has tons of bits that jut out AND recessed parts
I want to give this model the time it deserves but I also want to be done with it asap
This is one of those NPCs that I'd preemptively shoot a
I LOVE WHITE INK
Surprisingly weird to use and ive fucked up a bunch already but gotta learn it
Oh yeah and you'd be correct lmao
He offers contracts to the party but there's always some sort of monkey paw bullshit involved so it becomes a mindgame between the DM and players on where the paw is gonna curl and if they can anticipate the way it goes wrong and maybe outsmart/outroll the DM
it's cool concept tbh it basically gives the DM a one-off way to completely fuck the party over without it being seen as railroading too much
Yeah that looks like one of the few times I'd sub assemble and paint on sprue
Holy coverage batman
Its just a struggle (on my end) to eliminate brush strokes and the undercoat peeking through on some models
I've used the ink on different models in different states. From left to right - Unprimed - grey seer prime - chaos black prime - creamy beige undercoat
Brush strokes can indicate your paint is too thick, also make sure your primer is appropriate for your paints, its a pain to try build a vibrant color on a dark undercoat, or add dark details to white, sometimes a neutral grey is the most versatile option
It's ink
@short pawn what you think of da warboss?
blutac and a pill bottle
the first part is incorrect, primer also doesnt matter for acrylics
brush strokes will show on watercolors
its technique that will remove them, also dont worry about having them
send!!!
I tried but the dredd is so heavy it almost falls off constantly
He was good practice for when I get my badrukk proxy in. He's the Warlord of my army so I want him looking extra good
More blutac
Its normal for the white ink to need more than 1 coat still right?
Figured, just wanted to make sure im not goofing it
the reason why it doesnt look like I need it is A) the camera B) the technique
Ahh gotcha. I hope i'll get to that standard some day, painting has just become super fun for me recently
this ink is legitimately hobby life changing for me
I am definitely going to pick up some more golden high flow products next paycheck. Shame you dont make commission 
its actually such a different feel from citadel!
I should get sponsored by them at this point
Once i recess shade this mf is going to POP!!
This is what a actual high quality paint is like
very rarely do i buy a 15 4 oz tub of paint from the recommendation from somebody in a video game discord server
yeah and i thought i couldnt notice the quality
i get entirely what you rant about
Yes, The difference is massive
You're not fighting the paint
It cuts down the working time by so much
EXACTLY OMFG
base coating 3 minis took me an hour
AN HOUR
The world of professional stuff is that much better, sometimes it gets more confusing and it's trickier to use
Like transparent paints are trickier to use
But they also give you something opaque paints don't have, utility
Transparent paint you can actually create contrast and depth with that single paint
When you're building an infinite Albedo, opaque paint will cap out very quickly at how many layers they will take before they stop changing color and altering, transparent paints however will continue to get darker and darker for quite a long time
Total eldar death
Sorry just saw this I think just the one bottle. I liked using it so much I actually paid $60 just for one about a year ago after.it first went out. And of course my dog knocked it over
How did the death guard fare
So just to let you know, you can still get that same stuff and it cost like $15 for a 4 oz bottle. You can also get chestnut and get it's like $25 for 100 mil bottle.
Those are from when Windsor and Newton was making some of their paint. I can actually track any old GW paint until you exactly what it is from a professional line, And how to mix it as well if it requires mixing.
This includes the original Gen 1 stuff. And oh boy is it vastly cheaper
I can sell you literally a gallon of that exact same stuff, for about $40. That's how cheap it is to produce
If I want to go much higher end, you would cost about $60
@plush swift getting into inks also you got a good reasonably priced recommendation for a Black, White, Blue(anywhere between cyan and like sapphire it just needs to be a blue) and Magenta
Not so much trying to get super high-end quality stuff, just best dollar/quality/quantity ratio possible
i think the only citadel paints im gonna have to unfortunately use for a little bit are the fleshtone ones
whos johnthan contrast paint here
That'd be me I think lol
they reccomended me tintatium white from golden high flow
and IT FUCKS SO HARD
Yeah I was pretty impressed by the white coverage you got on the orange man
about 2 coats
roughly
but theyre also super thin
so i just did it out of the bottle
That super clean white with minimal orange highlights is such a hard aesthetic to pull off but it looks so nice
Yeah that's what I like about my black ink I don't have to bullshit around with thinning it and adding downtime when I'm painting
funny story, that was supposed to be red
I already find rinsing and brush washing absolutely tedious I'd rather avoid extra steps if I can
Did it touch the ink on the pallete?
Lmao it happens
thats what i was gonna ask you though, have you used Baal red before?
Corax has this super weird thing where it literally looks like the exact same shade of grey as my primer when it's on the pallete but looks white when it goes on the model it's weid
Yeah Baal is easily a top 5 contrast paint for me
Has probably the strongest colour and best coverage in the whole range other than like frostheart or talassar
Do you think it would fit the white scar's trim colors? I assume you know what they are
Only downside is the pigment is so solid that it doesn't always give you the full dynamic range you expect from a contrast paint but that's super easily fixed with a highlight or dry brush of evil suns scarlet or something like that
i was gonna highlight it wild riders
Yeah Baal will probably get you the exact shade you're after
Sick!
Its almost exactly the coca cola red if that gives a good reference point
I gotcha, i appreciate it. I think i own evil sunz so i can whip that out too
i dont really wanna buy anymore citadel paints
Step 1 of painting white is accepting there is no god(s) and if there are..... they are asshole(s)
I use blood red speed paint from army painter.
step 2 is getting ink and just winning
Yeah Ive been transitioning into other paints. 90% of the citadel stuff I own is from me following painting tutorials and not really knowing where I was able to substitute paints yet
I was led to believe citadel was specially designed for miniatures and something else might damage it
Lmao yeah that sounds like he exact shpiel a GW manager would say
(I will still use citadel shades and technicals though)
Im scared to recess shade ngl
i dont wanna stain the white
I'd say step 1 is accepting that titanium white is for highlights, that the main plate is slightly darker.
I'm generally going to recommend Golden for just about everything, for cyan/blue that's a little bit of a tricky answer, are you looking for transparent or opaque?
Funny enough games workshop has actually told me this directly. I have emails with them stating it
Lame as fuck of them
Oh I know, They actually said to my face "no other acrylic paints will damage our products, if you use any other paints than ours they will ruin our product"
And I'm sitting there on the phone with them like "That's not how these paints work"
And I did get into an argument with the guy on the phone and he was super adamant about how acrylic paints melt plastic, he lied about them containing acetone and all these things that they just don't contain...
But this is American GW so they are perfectly fine to lie without getting in trouble
cant overstate how much ink has made me happy to paint
i was really not having fun painting white
i was about to just call it for my white scars
Well I'm glad I could help your enjoyment
IM INK PILLED
join the cult
Wow thanks I'll definitely keep that in mind. And a gallon?! I mean I might just do my truck in guilliman blue 😂
yeah you'd be shocked at how cheap paint can get when you look into professional stuff
Probably leaning more towards transparent. My plan was to wet blend/mix those 4 as needed to get all of the base tones I want on my lord of change before I go in with highlights and drybrushing and the like
phthalo blue green shade is the most universal
For reference I wet blended Doomfire magenta into frostheart for my basing scheme across my whole army so I'm kinda looking for something that'll roughly match those shades
In what situation should I use this?
When you’re thirsty
I was under that impression. Thanks for the confirmation.
basically its for when you dont wash your brush well and acrylics have dried in it, the problem is it kills natural hair
The stairs got some further adjustments with a blue and a green filter, green a bit heavier on select areas
I cant help but wonder how some specckled weeds or dirt between the stone might look
That will come later 😄
Still kinda mapping it out in my mind how heavy I want to go with it
ah fuck. Do you know if GW layer brushes use natural hairs?
No they don't, The old ones use a material called taklon, The new ones are nylon.
phew. Thanks
I like my brush 🙂
The three stooges, warcriminals extraordinaire
And may this humble skitarii offer you a las pack in these trying times?
Gave these old paintjobs a varnish today
Who’s this for?
Sienna and Viktor
Oooooh
I'll probably post more pics of them once they start to look decent 😄
Looking forward to it
I would die on the spot if someone said this to me
Any advice on how to recess shade space marine armor? And maybe what citadel shade to use for a bright white marine's recesses?
I do know color theory. I just don't care because I play Orks. Cope and seeth.
Ooh ooh! Thats one of the first things i learned when i started. What i do is take a fairly good brush (not too good because you don't want to shade with a really good one) Right after base coating your mini, place the shade into all the recesses you want. Any spilling onto places you don't want the shade to be can be easily fixed with just going over those areas with your base coat after the shade dries. The same thing can be done without using a shade, and instead a normal paint in the recesses.
I've used this method on this space marine I'm painting rn.
And then you can do stuff like edge heighlight. If youre going for a GW style that is. There are probably other methods though, i just find this one to be very easy and risk free.
How To Paint White Scars / Learn how to paint White power armour / Warhammer 40k
In this tutorial I show you how to paint your Space Marines as White Scars so you can get them ready to play Warhammer 40,000
This is an easy to follow guide that uses Citadel products to achieve fantastic looking miniatures, even if you’re new to the hobby.
Her...
Or watch this vid. I love this guy. This guy got me into painting and i think his stuff looks amazing. (He uses GW whites to paint his stuff. Don't know how tf he does it.)
I think my plan is gonna be to drubrush everything black with lead beaches then go though with my Metallics and pick out the spots I want to be true metallic
It's just gonna be ALOT of metal bits
Generally the cleanest and quickest way is to drybrush that stuff yeah
Gavw it a wash in cassandora yellow before going to the gym, see how it looks when I get back
AVE DOMINUS NOX
Is that...a Raven Guard helmet?!
You monster
A fallen son of Corax will be avenged!
@plush swift for my deff Dread I was thinking of drybrushing yriel yellow to bring a brighter yellow and also to pick out the highlights, then edge highlighting with flash gitz then dorn yellow on the crispest edges, thoughts?
thinned down 40/60 water paint mixture. Apply multiple layer. Use a flat brush to ensure smooth surface. Most importantly wait for it to dry after each stroke.
The easiest way is to use Tamiya panel liner
It's the camera, when you actually look at it very closely it's super chalky and does not look as smooth as you think it is. The camera actually removes a lot of the imperfections.
When you train yourself to actually spot these things you notice that it is not that clean, but this is a curse of mine because I can spot all of these things so most paint jobs look bad to me
Pinwash
If I knew what those words meant I would say something but that's a lot of words I don't know
I don't know hobby paint names very well
Hold on let me get at least the approximation of the colors
I know gw has a splotches color problem but it'll be close enough
Yriel
Gitz
Dorn
Okay as someone who teaches art at a very high level... No hobbyist actually knows color theory in the slightest, so someone tells you that, They don't know what the fuck they're talking about because they don't know it either.
I can prove they know nothing about color theory too in a few seconds
My God those are so similar... I can see that they're different but yeah you might need add a little bit of white into the top layer
Will do, I usually do a 80/20 mix of dorn yellow and titanium white
That's a good ratio
But just for the crispness edges, armor panel corners, tops of spikes, etc
I like how the highlights came out on my warboss yesterday
I'm getting better at not fatbrushing the highlights
There's not much I can do about you fat brushing the highlights as that is entirely a learned skill that nobody can teach you
So it's something I never point out
Or judge for
Yeah I'm getting there, it's just a matter of slowing down and taking my time
I'm sure I'll get a lot of practice on this dredd
A lot of what I can teach you is just giving you resources to teach yourself, It's honestly a much better way to do things because you'll learn at the pace that you normally would learn at
I am a very much learn by doing person
another product that take me hard earned treasure away
Tamiya panel liner is great, wish there was more opportunities to use it in my army
Is it moron proof
No it's actually poisonous
So don't drink it
But it is the easiest way, so if you look up ways on how to use it you can use a wash kind of like it
You're basically doing it as a pinwash
You can use that as a replacement to some extent
Basically what a pin wash is, is that it's a targeted wash so instead of doing it all over the place
Your specifically trying to use surface tension to guy the wash around the panels
You gotta thin down a wash hella for that right?
I don't know GW washes very well, so maybe? But generally speaking probably not
How are white contrast paints on a sliver primer? I'm looking to paint dark angels
It would make it look very cloudy
So better bet is to just use a layer paint right?
Finally got around to catching up these guys and adding the technical paint to the base
I used a plastic knife for the technical to avoid ruining a brush
Left is probably gonna get a drop of Earthshade on a tiny brush into the recesses
Too much wash bad
I really wouldntt to put technical paint on the sides of the base
Jesus christ i cant even edit it to make sense
You're fine
I REALLY WOULDN'T WANT TO PUT technical paint on the sides of the base
Its hard to type and shit
I'll clean it up in a day or two then
Is the sandy grit gonna come off and get everywhere?
Maybe, but it's just gonna be icky to hold considering how the texture dries. It'll also look off if not every single one has that base
Oh these aren't going to be played
Better to just do a black coat on the sides of the base IMO
Ah gotcha
These were just my very first painted minis before I hit something big like the armigers I got
To make sure I didn't make a costlier mistake
I also have Bretonnians coming in too
So I can always practice on peasants too
no GW whites aare truely white
Ok ok but like I swear it’s supposed to be whiter than this
There’s no way in hell it’s just dawnstone like grey
well it is
Ok cool
Well now my apothecary gonna look more like a statue
Which I’m ok with
Do some detail revision later
The marines really put it to perspective how big knights are
Nice catch! Those little one are doing their jobs🫡
Got my Joytoy Sentinel in this week.
Pretend that Bane is a mutant from Darktide and is about to be plasma'd by this sentinel.
I want this set so damn bad it looks fire
Does it fall over a lot?
I ordered the bandai namco blood angel but it's been 5 months so im pretty sure GW fucked me over
Rule for shades is: you can almost never go wrong with a black shade unless you've gone for a super black base tone (and you've effectively already shade because you'll lighten it elsewhere if you want detail to show)
There's a reason nuln oil is like the best selling citadel paint. It's almost universally applicable.
Then there's two approaches, I don't know the actual proper art terminology but I'm just gonna call it "supportive shades" and "contrasting" shades
Supporting shades is something like fleshshade over gold, or off-white with a blue-black shade for cloth, where it helps the whole thing read as one colour with a broad dynamic range.
Then you have contrasting shades, like when people shade purple with fuegan orange or yellow or shade a bright pink with cyan or vice versa, if all of your colours look "right" together on the pallete and the shade contrasts the base tone it'll make both colours pop harder
I personally wayy prefer heavily contrasting ones bc it lets you get wilder with your colour palletes, but it's way more stylized and doesn't support a "realistic" style of painting, so if you prefer your stuff to look more subdued or realistic it's safer to stick to earthy/dark tones and try to support the colour you're already painting
Realising in my post-wall-of-text clarity that you probably meant technique
Don't overload your brush, keep your point fine and well maintained, trim any random solo hairs that poke out bc they will fuck up your painting and instead of trying to move paint around to touch unpainted areas: just reload your brush and let the extra paint fill those areas in, its quite easy to mop up extra paint with a dry brush when you're recess shading and you wanna kinda "deposit" the paint into recesses moreso than actually paint it on
Low-key kill teams have been a great way to deal with hobby burnout I now have like 6 different projects that I can use entirely different painting styles and colours on
The knee joints aren't ratcheted, so it can't fully stand upright without buckling over, but it is sturdy at the normal half crouch pose, as pictured here.
Deff Dread update, most steel bits painted, gotta go through with brass,copper,bronze and gold parts next
So I have that severed head on the waaagh banner, how do you paint dead skin?
Wash with a very thin purple then highlight with a light grey tone maybe
sucks up all the paint
Mah fuckin paint
drinks all the paint with my mind
Current wip on Terminator Captain
What space marine combat patrol do you guys think would be best for getting a deal on my white scars army? I was thinking of the space wolf one.
Accidentally super glued the torso on off-centre and now I can't tell if it makes it looks stupid or more dynamic
Probably the former
I mean dreadnought torsos can spin 360 degrees like a swivel
So it works
Always assume both
and when people say either, agree
Pretty good wisdom tbh
that way you're always correct

Just say the pilot has a crooked eye
if you areiwlling to cough up like 40 more dollars the white scars army box is on amazon at 190, if you already have a space marine captain or leutentant or something i like the blood angels box and the dark angels one
Oh shit i completely forgot they had their own box, good looking out
So far i only have the brand new spearhead force and a box of the assault intercessors
you have an expensive habit mr i eat plastic
its not good but its lroe accurate
im waiting for that to a little cheaper tbh like the raven guard
My friend plays chaos so it hurts
try challenge someone with knights
I got it for 115 off amazon with some saving tricks
give yourself a real challenge
nice! how so?
Visa prime rewards and it was 40 dollara off to begin with
I like the DA box but its kinda silly to have only 5 intercessors
I....just realized that intercessor squads are only 5 marines
would yall say this looks russian enough?
Kitbash
Just a quick pic of my dreddy base.
Tried to give the metal that dilapidated aged look thinking that they've been there for some time
Not even close. Where's his tracksuit?
I’m going more Soviet themed
I cannot express how confused I am about this model
Looking at deff dredd ✅️
Painting deff dredd ❌️
Lol on a serious note it looks pretty good, I'd use it if I played guard
But I prefer gettin stuck in with da boyz
I saw the new solar auxilia models and immediately wanted to get them. after cooking up paint schemes and lore with a friend I have a plan on how to use them in 40K
This is how mine started and how he ended
@mint dove my paint scheme
Oh I like that
God damn warship you've got some serious talent
I honestly wish I chose goffs,
Painting yellow forever makes me want to die
My orks are kinda just whatever, I do all sorts and slap them together my warboss in mega armour is Bad moonz
I also have a couple of default orks who don’t have a klan to help mix in the variety of colour
No offense, the mini looks nice, but that mini stand thingie looks GRIMY. Bro, get a wetwipe and clean that thing XD
Its mainly primer, I hold the minis in that while I spray them
A wipe won't move it
I just finished my warboss!
After painting every bolt and rivet, all I gotta do Is paint the base and he's done
if its wobbly you can fill in the gaps with green stuff it looks fine
also because the contact point is small you can always cut it and reglue it
if you are worried about stability you can pin it too its actually really easy I did it for the first time yesterday
I tried this the first time and whatever i used is strong stuff it wont even move
But luckily it stands fine and since i will be using the same glue to keep it on the base when i am done i dont think it shall become an issue
But thanks all the same

Wip update...
2 "snazzwagons" and a "trukk" ready to paint
I've been looking everywhere for a 3D printing company that does white scar bits 😦
If there werent runes on the armor bits i could definitely use them for them 
I may paint them, or I may just paint the weapons.
I feel like painting the entire thing will be a hassle, if anything I'll make a stencil of the "badmoons logo and put it over the army star
@short pawn what do you think?
Figures out why it didn't feel orky enough
They already look amazing
grrrr non gw bits! fake fan!
Sooon...
for some weird reason, accept any challenge, "matter not the odds" sticks more to my mouth rather than "no matter the odds"
It sounds more gothic
1 or 2?
I'd say 1, but 2 will look better on environments I think
For tabletop i'd say 2 but for parade i'd say 1
maybe 2 for frontline infantry and 1 or artillery/ fire support?
"consider not the odds: but the glory" sounds more complete as a sentence
Cadian primaris psyker
FUCK
I LOST THE HEAD FOR MY SKITAARI VANGUARD UNIT
Fuck it I'm just going to put a ranger hood on this one, he has a plasma gun anyways
karskin equilvalent
What's that tool called again to make these?
nice head swap
Thanks. Pain to trim to fit but worth in the end
For sure, I think his normal head is a bit goofy.
Could do that yea
He’s getting there, terminator captain was an awesome model to add to the collection
Finished my first ever mini at home!
Requesting a second opinion
I have a small and medium layer brush, a medium and large shade brush and a large base brush
do i need a small/medium base brush or is the layer brush fine for the smaller bases? I am painting guardsmen.
@rare hornet i'm pretty happy that i was able to put such detail in the mini
Depends what you intend to do with that brush. If you're applying texture paints, I'd get some cheap brushes from a discount store. If you're just painting them with regular paint, the large shade brush might be fine. In any case, you don't have to buy citadel brushes, I'd say at least 25% of their cost is convienience/brand fee.
i use most of my brushes interchangebly aside from shades,metallics,technicals and dry brushing so a layer brush should be fine for base paints
i think the only difference in the small medium base brush is how thick the brush is
This was stressful, thankfully it seems to look pretty natural already but needs a proper paint over so it melds better with the rest
thank you, everyone
If it helps, I have a Vanguard head on the sergeant for one of my Ranger teams
Because I thought the helmet would look neat for a squad commander
Welcome to the club mate.
Good shit, looks like one of the house color schemes from battletech.
Thanks, it was meant to be a custom paint scheme for a League I made
It's really cool dude keep it up

wonderful basework
Eventually I think I'm gonna make a beast snagga army. What am I gonna need for that?
1000 points of them that is
Depends really.
Do you want speed or brute power? A mix?
@mint dove
This is 1000% a meme build. But also what I wanna build for lolz.
Orks
Waaagh! Tribe
CHARACTERS
Beastboss (115 points)
• Warlord
• 1x Beast Snagga klaw
1x Beastchoppa
1x Shoota
• Enhancement: Kunnin’ but Brutal
Beastboss on Squigosaur (185 points)
• 1x Beastchoppa
1x Slugga
1x Squigosaur’s jaws
• Enhancement: Headwoppa’s Killchoppa
Nob on Smasha Squig (85 points)
• 1x Big choppa
1x Slugga
1x Smasha squig jaws
• Enhancement: Follow Me Ladz
BATTLELINE
Beast Snagga Boyz (210 points)
• 1x Beast Snagga Nob
• 1x Power snappa
1x Slugga
• 19x Beast Snagga Boy
• 17x Choppa
2x Close combat weapon
17x Slugga
2x Thump gun
Beast Snagga Boyz (105 points)
• 1x Beast Snagga Nob
• 1x Power snappa
1x Slugga
• 9x Beast Snagga Boy
• 8x Choppa
1x Close combat weapon
8x Slugga
1x Thump gun
OTHER DATASHEETS
Gretchin (40 points)
• 1x Runtherd
• 1x Grot-smacka
1x Slugga
• 10x Gretchin
• 10x Close combat weapon
10x Grot blasta
Squiggoth (150 points)
• 1x Gorin’ horns
1x Kannon
Squighog Boyz (110 points)
• 3x Squighog Boy
• 3x Saddlegit weapons
3x Squighog jaws and saddlegits
3x Stikka
ORKS ORKS ORKS WAAAAAAAAAGH
Tau started
Shoulders gonna be orange, and im debating between yellow or green lights
WOuld use green for contrast terms.. Cuz orange shoulder plates + yellow light could be to less contrast...
Thats how i was leaning too

Posing…..
So I want to paint the coils/tubes on my shaman a neon green, would a good recipie for this you think be to base in striking scorpion, edge highlight in moot green, highlight again in 50/50 moot green and flash gitz yellow and then dot highlight titanium white?
I'd paint layers on them of green glow in the dark paint, but that is me
first mini ever done
paint came out a little thicker than i wanted, but I'm genuinely proud of myself lol
great work for your first mini!
tip for painting with white is to make sure you apply it in more thin coats than usual since white tends to be thicker than other paints due to the fact it has more pigment in the mixture
source: me who paints a white guard army
lmao
a friend recommended that and I tried really hard to get it as thin as possible but alas
looks good regardless!
grenadiers, the pride of krieg
may they die well
Yarg, anyone can help me on building a Dark Angels army?
if that is indeed them
the headpiece might be too ornate for a grenade i am not 100% sure
I don’t know which shade paint to drink
nah they are grenadiers
Thank you my fellow brother in krieg
with nonsensical colours from my ultramarine vs tyranid starter building pack
this i mean
I have 11 more to do until my kill team is finished
i am building troopers with a killteam box as test subjects
they will give their live or rather plastic for my practice
and wear completely wrong colours but i will get to practice my brushwork a little before getting onto my real killteam models and real colours
11 more to do for a killteam? i guess you bought singles or 2 boxes then.
3 boxes actually
ah like me then
FW Command HQ, Grenadiers, and regular Guardsmen
2 for the team i will play, 1 for painting practice
OH you are building the killteam with non-killteam sets
Yep
very cool
always preferred the FW models to the plastic
i am 100% planning on making a grenadier set and proxy it as kasrkin
since theyre both shocktroops with the same gear i think
roughly
I kitbashed a few with the plastic kits though, like my demolitions and Sergeant
pictured above
i had a feeling i recognised that demoman good job
I literally saw the pose he made and was like "hold on this is actually a great idea" lmao
my expendables built up so far. i wanted to paint today with my wh friend in vc but he got busied out of it so i wait
my other team is not at my home and fully built already though. i just keep them with the person i actually play with
cant wait to play again
and even found german beer in their country at the local liquor store for the true experience
well goodnight. nice to see someone building krieg minis in here
Krieg best regiment
Second actually, Steel Legion will always hold a place in my heart
the pigment thing is actually incredibly false, pigment does not affect the thickness of an acrylic, its actually chemical thickener
If you want a source I can DM you the BASF handbook on paint production
its about 600 pages
its actually a fun read
Is runefang steel a good highlight for leadbelcher?
oh thanks!
the reason why they make it thicker is because titanium white isnt a very stable pigment and because hobby companies cheap out and use chalk as an opacifer and matte agent, it becomes even less stabled and will separate quickly in an acrylic, so the higher amount of rheology modifiers in it, the better it says dispersed
thaaaat makes way more sense!
yeah
Personally i use ironhands, nuln oil, then runefang steel
and you would get something like this.
@toxic rampart if you're wanting to make a squig army cheap I found this guy https://www.etsy.com/shop/GorksSculpts?ref=shop-header-name&listing_id=969596678&from_page=listing specializes in printing squigs
Looks better than the official GW ones in my opinion
Oh I like those.
I wanted to make a full 2000 point army with Beastsnaggas, but use Grots on the backs of Squigs with guns as Killakans, and Orks on massive Squigs as Deffdreads. This might help
Painting space marine trim is the saddest ive ever been why does the little lip exist
How do you paint that
Got that halftrack kit for My ork army, was wondering why it was so hard to get it to go together
So I look at the box and find that this kit was manufactured in
NINETEEN SEVENTY ONE
i read online that using contrast paint for trims is a terrible idea so maybe thats why im finding it so miserable
@hollow goblet thoughts on that claim?
Honestly hard agree contrast paint is really good as like an all-rounder but its pretty bad when used for any one individual thing
So like its really good at providing a nice base tone that gives you a sense of depth, shade and highlights
But trying to actually use a contrast paint to highlight is usually nightmare bc its thin and the pigment is pretty inconsistent
It looks really good on the aquila but now im sad
It can be used pretty comfortably as a shade but I tend to aggressively thin it when I do that anyway
yeah aquila should be fine tbh it does larger raised areas decently well
Well the issue with that is i dont want the aquila and shoulderpads to be different tones of red
If you just drybrush/highlight a normal paint on afterwards it should be fine to base the thing with
Ahh gotcha, yeah if you're worried about that then its safe to use the same paint generally
Shame too because the red is gorgeous
Tho tbf it doesn't actually look as bad as you might think to have diffferent shades of the same colour
If you look up deathguard schemes they tend to be largely varying shades of green with a bit of bronze and purple
But yeah might not translate to the cleanest white scars look
I think the issue here might be an overloaded brush tbh
If you remove more excess when you're painting you'll avoid the overflow
Well the issue is the little lip marines have
The overall trim is good i think
But theres a TINY little bump that needs a red
God's worst invention
Yeah that shit looks whack, it happens a lot with thousand sons trim, you're normally able to redo the base panel colour afterwards also if you find that easier
Just hard to get a smooth line
Plus its white so any red that fucks up is a NIGHTMAFE
prob another reason why contrast is a terrible idea
way too vibrant
Cut out the middleman just base in off white and use tesseract glow
I paint shoulders in subassembly
I just paint a bunch of them together then put them on models
It makes the force more cohesive too
these might not exist for much longer, GW just sued a bunch of the sculptors like emang and put most of them into bankruptcy if not homelessness
GW is legit doing the pokemon thing where they'd rather try to have a monopoly on the entire niche they occupy and try to constantly fight the Hydra of copyright evasion instead of just....improving their products or offering them at a reasonable fuckin price
its getting bad, they are now actively trying to force people into homelessness and ruin them, even if the sculpts were free
Created my first kitbash from flamer to plasma
Quite the scare tactic
Its normal to get that one tiny bit of pigment on the tip of your brush sometimes right?
Let's gooo that's hype! I love kit bashing
Is there a way to paint metalic deathwing?
i assume youre asking for specific colour schemes
because ofc you can paint them metal if you want
maybe check out some iron warriors, iron hands and warhammer fantasy models to get an idea on how to do metals right as a main thing
I can now finally zenithal highlight every model I paint from now on 
Sorry I ment is there a good metalic cream color or bone color I can use for deathwing
so like whitegold?
I guess
the closest metal to any bone or cream tone i found on their website was canoptec which is necron bronze
i wonder if that would work on a white undercoat with bright accents
or perhaps white with a bone-y wash and then paint on accents with a metal
i feel like you might have to get creative here
Yeah I was gonna prime my dark angels silver and use contast paints, but deathwing kinda confused me on how to go about it
here is a less bone whitegold
id describe it off-silver
posting it just in case thats what you want
but if you want actual cream-colour
i think the way to go is to just make it a creamy colour and then highlight the hell out of it with white
to really show its metallic. cream is such a gentle colour that it ends up looking plastic unless you can see the reflections
Then it looks like shiny plastic
I was thinking on my way to work today it's crazy hiw GW made something so cool/popular that it's able to survive even with most fans tolerating them at best and hating them at worst
The stuff you read online is largely just a loud miniority. Most GW fans don't know or care about a lot of it
Just give me my plastic crack
I won't even paint, I'll just look at the boxes on the shelf
Skullmask my beloved ❤️
yes but it doesnt exist within hobby paints
turner acrylic gouache has something similar
You can mix it yourself, but the first step to do it is using a pearl color which is rare
Found the downside of buying resin minis
Found a perfect trukk proxy for around $30
Expected delivery
March 19th-april 2nd
that big bannner is a big "shoot me I"m here!" sign, but it's 40k, the rule of cool wins all the time
big banner i'd say
I am thinking about it. Problem is with base it's already so tall and transport will be a nightmare
Can you stick the banner on a magnet?
For example, I put the sails of a drukhari raider on a magnet, so that I can lower the height profile of the mini in a metal/magnetic box.
oddly enough a friend suggested that to me but it leaves a hole in my dred if ilater decide not to have the flag
You are left with a visible magnet, not a hole?
It depends very much on how you magnetise it, I guess.
You could disguise it as some kind of tech-y connection thing?
Like gluing some guitar strings as wires to it's sides?
Couldn't you just 3D print some kind of plug to go in place of the banner hole?
whats there if you dont put a banner?
isnt there some other piece that belongs there if you dont use a banner
if its big enough, you could magnetise that too
Yeah, you could easily mask it with a smoke thrower or smt
nothing i was gonna levae it plain as i dont like the smoke launcher
then there is a hole in your dreadnought anyway though
"oddly enough a friend suggested that to me but it leaves a hole in my dred if ilater decide not to have the flag"
im going off this
it has a flat roof, the smoke launcher is glue on.
it seems like youre against magnet option because it would leave a hole when not using the flag
oh
oh i see
so its entirely different base with or without hole that then holds the banner or smoke or nothing
Yh sorry i should have been clearer earlier when it was suggested to me. My process was; drill magnet hole, place flag = hole in roof if not used
But now i have made this out of old sprue 1 sec
I might not even keep this either. Just a rough concept atm
@plush swift out of curiosity what printer do you use? I was thinking of investing in resin printing sometime this year
I have a few, I have a 3 industrial DLP printers, a mars 4, and a saturn 3
Which do you like the most?
I was about to ask which is the cheapest...I think I Got my answer
I got mine broken and used for next to nothing
Christ almighty
the cheapest is the mars 4 which was about 300
Alright, and I've read I need some place to wash and cure the resin and also a ventilation system of some kind so I don't get cancer correct?
Alright, probably for my birthday in August im gonna pull the trigger, should have the space for it then
The problem is just gonna be convincing my lady lol
easy
just tell her "it'll save me money"
wait
she likes painting
"itll save US money"
It'll definitely cut plastic cost lol
I could print a gargantuan squiggoth for what, $10 worth of resin?
See its allot harder for me to justify a 300-400 dollar purchase. Than smaller purchases over time
I know it saves me money but..... man thats allot
What makes this one more expensive than others?
Like 300 to 30000 id a huge jump in price
Well for one, the mars 4 isnt a dlp, its a monoLCD with a frensel lens. These are massive printers also.
this is one of the more common ones
Dear God
Industrial DLP printers are used for a lot of things like prototyping engineering samples
and checking tolerances
Gotcha
You mean to tell me people aren't buying 6 figure printers to make army men?
They already spent six figures on the figures themselves

Goddamn if i didnt plan on building tau this box would be IT
Speaking of
So the armors black but it seems kinda bland, any ideas on panel lining and/or highlighting?
Try to use mechanicum standard grey for edge highlighting... or if you want some "battle damage" optics use leadbelcher for edge highlighting
only for black painted parts
See leadbelcher is odd tp me because isnt the tau armor more of a plastic than a metal?
I don't know.. i have zero connection to tau or their lore...
But then try mechanicum standard grey... looks nice on black
Yeah definetly gonna try that
I do same with my Black Templars.. mostly looks good if i don't mess it up
Sounds good
Would drybrushing it on high spots work well or is it too much vontrast?
Oh shit mines an airbrush paint
Dammit
is that ebay?
hey quick question about 10th editon wargear since I havent played since 7th, I can just add wargear without worrying about extra point costs now? im stupid and couldnt find anything in the core rulebook while skimming
Yep all wargear is now free
fucking sick
Only thing which costs extra points is enhancements for characters
which wargear is best for shock troops? I just wanna know before I assemble them tonight lol
been sitting on my cadia stands box since last christmas since I havent had space to do ym hobby shit
Pretty sure you can build them however you want, GW pretty much said that wysiwyg is dead in 10th, so long as you know which units are the special weapons models then it doesn't really matter which weapon the models have.
Nope, random hobby store I found that had a few left in stock
iirc they had four when I bought mine
Now I just need to get the combat patrol before they replace it and I’ll have a good lil army going
Correct
Oh shit wow
my firstever painted mini has been completed
throwaway practice i didnt have the paints yet. only the starter kit colours

Someones gotta tell GW that up to 180 days for shipping doesn't mean wait 180 days till you ship it
I will buy the box set and proxy the stormcasts if I don't GW I'm warning you
What kind of varnishes do folks recommend? And do you always apply a glossy varnish first, and then a matte one (assuming you want a matte finish)? Also, do you spray or brush it on?
I use Mr. Super clear matt
Let me see if that's available in Europe, sounds very American 😛
Got the captian titus mini for $15 on ebay. But I haven't decided if I want to paint him as a flesh tearer so I can use him as a captian in my space marine army or paint him as a blueberry, do my very best and list him on ebay for $100
Decisions decisions
Japanese actually
Gloss is for decals. Otherwise matt is sufficient.
If you want to reinforce your mini, gloss first, then matt.
i find spray to be unreliable. Only time i spray is when i have a really good spray varnish or where to you to speed things up.
I would use the Mr Hobby Top Coat Premium matt varnish one if u going for display quality.
may i see your beloved titus if you dont mind
I use automotive varnish, its basically the same thing as tamiya and mr. super
Thanks for all the input!
painted my first mini today
i need to go back up and clean up some of the detail, and there are some texture issues but overall had fun and looking forward to improving
They have really fun warcry rules
Also they are considered demons but idk if they got 40k rules yet
Imagine i'm painting a checker on a marines shoulder. Should i base it with white first then blue or the other way around? (gw paints)
base it in the lighter colour
then paint the darker colour over
it's easier to paint darks over lights than it is lights over darks
@open tree look i made my first mini! take a look friend
Oh, pretty nice look
First mini? damn

finished at 7am without noticing the time fly by with all the paint drying and correcting
reminds me of schooldays when i stayed up finishing art-class homework all night without realising just how late it is
Very good job
Though be careful with losing so hard the track of time 
nah i will win the track of time

I had to scour the internet to find that thing bruh
Another day thankful I’m not a da fan
Especially with white, use the dark first. The blue might end up staining the white if you do the other way around, so I’d recommend what @visual turret said as well. Just to certify her info!
I'm about to fight another battle. Tyranids this time
Her, please ✨
Right, fuck GW whites. Pro acryl is the popular, highly recommended one, right?
In the mini painting community yes, in the professional painting community its golden high flow titanium white.
@sterile grail
With the pro acryl one, i should be fine with mixing it with GW paints right?
I mean both are from house paint manufactuers, so yes.
Alright, Thanks!
Oh my apologies. It’s fixed!
Thank youuuu
So thanks to my LGS generous trade in prices I now own every green paint GW makes
Gonna paint each ork from here on out by closing my eyes and choosing 3 paints and painting that way
Let gork (or possibly mork) guide my hand
I won my game!
Meet the Grave Marines
grats!!!
I smell drybrush... lots of drybrush...
Cool army man!
Finally got some more painting done
Nothing like two weeks of no work because Nurgle decided to roundhouse kick me in the nuts.
And yet I assembled painted these two in about 3 hours each on two different days
And a Rogue Psyker that I've been sitting on for almost a year since I got it for 5 bucks on eBay
1st Sternguard done (base decoration still to do)
Thank you
WAAAAAAAAAAAGH
Feel like I'm getting better at my brush work, I only had to go back and clean up one part of one model
I don't think they're gonna be 40k models at all tbh
I think they'll probably end up being AoS-only daemons, but hopefully I'm wrong there
My plan was to use the little eyeball guys on my lord of change base as decorations, then recast the crotch dog and the feet bird like 20 times and turn them into horrors (bird as pink, dog as blue)
Actually now I think about it I could probably recast the two smallest and use them as brimstone horrors also
If I have to buy the box set: then the stormcast guys will be pretty easy to kitbash with a box of exalted sorceror bits and I can try putting them all on pop sockets so I have a bunch of disc sorcerors if needed
Pretty good progress tonight on the nobz, just gotta base metallics and averland sunset then I can start highlighting
After painting my deff Dread last week I've decided it's better to drybrush and edge highlight inanimate objects while it's better to layer on highlights on flesh surfaces
started up on my land raider
i love landraiders
0% chance they are usable in 40k and thats a sin
Did some painting tonight! This is a small version of my big titan of the same name, this is how the pattern will be on the big on hehe
Armor on or armor off?
The shoulderplates are magnetized
I’m trying to figure out how to magnetize the top piece that connects to the torso bit
Seems a waste to paint the shoulder pad and not use it
This
Plus if they’re magnetised you can just choose
So I just ordered some minis to paint but I had a question with primer. I don't see a citadel primer, only base coat. How do I know which to use as a primer? For example I want to use lead bleacher (a metallic base) for Kharadon, but do I need a black "primer" first?
The Citadel spray cans are their primer, they sell a Leadbelcher spray
ahh I was hoping to get a brush on because it is freezing outside
unless it is fine to use if I am quick
Apparently you don't even need primer though.
so just apply the lead bleacher base as the first layer, okay, that seems to be what they do in the video
thank you
Yea I've used the base paints to cover a model before when I couldn't spray due to weather and it works fine.
chat help me pick my next paintwork task
Orikan, my Skatros, or a C'tan shard of the Void Dragon
all 3 at once
Sorry to keep bothering you about the paint, but would you recommend i buy an off white along with pure white? I'm attempting to paint in the eavy metal style so I'm doing a lot of flat colours and I'm not sure I'm going to be able to mix paint exactly the same if i only purchase pure white. (i am attempting to substitute the GW ulthuan grey paint)
more men for the cause excellent
You can easily mix your own off white, dont worry too much about exact colors as you generally speaking wont be able to tell if its slightly off. Also its not a bother. But is it worth it? In my personal opinion its not unless you need it for a large army.
To add in highlights just use a tip full of paint at a time, then slowly add in more, after a while it becomes second nature
my friend told me not to buy whites from citadel
your friend is correct
they claim them to be grainy as hell
i can confirm after painting for the first time, i had to basically fish sand grains out of my paint
thats because all of their paints have chalk in them
and titanium dioxide doesnt like chalk
its a thirsty pigment, just like chalk is
so you get agglomerate issues when you mix the two without zinc
sometimes, but GW also goes one step further, and they use kaolin
the thirstiest pigment on the planet
its used to actually cause artificial clotting for serious wounds
im glad i only need it for highlights
painting white surfaces must be horror with these. i guess ill get whites from vallejo or army painter then
even the bone colours for my gas masks are lumpy but less so and its still small surfaces so i can deal with it
both are garbage
aw
like actual garbage
online i read vallejo is the way to go but this was in 2020
Seriously, golden high flow titanium white
no, it never was. You were hearing that from a bunch of people who are novice painters who have over ever used craft paint and GW paint
i found golden on amazon
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/3seI7y1dKDg this is golden high flow titanium white
its an ink
and you can use it as a primer
I have over 1500 different whites, this is the best I own
why is the title so rude
wouldnt "white paint doesnt suck, the brand does" work better
smh
i will remember this white for when i make my arctic krieg team if i choose white
for my highlights ill just keep picking out the chunks. i got other worries for money and effort when it comes to painting right now as a beginner
thank you for the insight
aye, i'm glad to answer questions if you ever need them
I kind of have a career based off testing paints
and making paints
and being paint
we all are what we eat
Dont consume paint
yes of course. dont consume paint. you hear me kids
I know I shouldnt, I have way too much lead paint here
Brother take it from someone who has been painting for 1.5 years and only with GW paints. Whites take out all the fun out of painting. They have given me days of frustration. I have spent 2 days doing some highlights and details on a marine, and then i got to the white. I painted it and it took out all my enthusiasm as the result is grainy and i am very much not happy with it. But we move.
Nvm, I posted a pic but you cant tell at all. But irl its not very good.
Yeah, in the process of buying a new one
The worst part rn in my situation is that i have painted the kneepads, but i still have the shoulders and face mask to go. I've put ulthual grey on the mini now. No going back. Been procrastinating doing it for the whole day today. 😦
hmm... maybe I can figure out a method for painting it smoothly
sometimes a technique can solve an issue
doubt it
but it can
Yeah, i know how to base it fairly smoothly (for a gw white that is) The issue is that i have already painted all the things around it. So now i'm in a spot where i have to base white and still be very careful to not get paint anywhere i don't want it, resulting in me having to weirdly point the brush when painting. in Aka i probably could have avoided such a bad result if i had any consideration for planning. But hey. It is what it is.
I'm also using the airbrush version of the paint which from my experience is a lot more forgiving.
I'm still not sure how much i should thin it though.
well if you follow reddit or vince venturella, then its like 50 parts water to 1 part paint
cant you just paint over the white spill?
i assume white is annoying to paint over because of how bright it is
also with the airbrush stuff, you dont thin it at all
oh
not at all, it reflects more light so the colors over it will pop more
Boss Nob base coat done, I feel like this is my cleanest basecoat so far
Except for that spot of averland sunset in the cow skull
Whoops
Oh well, I'm gonna paint them burnt umber anyhow
its an improvement
thats kind of my point
if you have a white leak on a blue coat from a mistake
painting that over with blue would leave that patch of correction blue more clear than the rest of the coat i imagine
not really
im surprised
its way more noticable if you paint over black
I use shades for recess shades, So for a kneepad, if white goes into the cracks, it will be almost impossible to cover it up without leaving a mess. (Easy solution is not use shades at all. But thats a problem for the future me)
If I use tamiya panel liner on unvarnished paint will any shenanigans occur?
my guess is that it may stain. But i'm talking completely out my ass. Don't listen to me.
Also if for example i get a new brush. What's the thing you should do first? Do you wash it first or do you just dip it in water and paint?
It's crazy to me how many dogshit habits and bad advice I've picked up from youtube videos
Like 90 bucks on primer because i got basically gaslit
not really
I know this is a dogshit question but do you know of a golden high flow red ink that would look like this tone of red?
naphthol medium
That was the exact paint i was looking at last night lets fucking go
Thanks
Wait i was looking at napthol red light nvm
Is napthol medium still ink?
I might just pick up the red light due to it being the only one available thats not 7 dollars shipping
Gonna pick out some skintone paints as well and see if i like them
YEAHHHH MORE ACRYLIC INK YEAHHHH
Ordered brown and black online as well then im good for a long, long while
Can mix from there
Bonk stick
This gave me an idea for a Khorne Chaos Knight
I have fufillrd a childhood dream of the 3e flyrant
Ignore the paint, I got the model used, so it isn't painted actually yet
The night lord looks amazing
The tallest boi :3
You mean the plug boy XD
My Pledge... is Eternal Service
Funny thing is I don't play space Marines, I'm Astra Militarum
I had to pick up the boy Titus thou
Titus is one of the few Poster smurfs i like
"This Blueberry is going into the Private Collection."
like salamanders or, idk, wolves. Raven guard or smth
I strongly disagree... Templars are just so f*** ignorant and zealous that they are perfectly fitting the space crusader theme...
If I had to go with some Space Marines I'd probably just go Imperial Fists, I like yellow and powerfists
IF are my second favourite chapter/legion
They're the most space-fascisty of all the other space fascists it just gives me the ick, idk
And this is why they perfectly fit in their role... No pity! No remorse! No fear!
It just fits.
What think? @plush swift
It's a little streaky, I'm having trouble painting smooth highlights, any advice?
It looks really good man! Glad to see you tearing through your models and having fun.
I get it. It would be one thing if they were just crusaders but they're also black with red, and the iron cross. They're like. The most fascist
Yeah... and this is all a sci-fi fantasy game... Was GW Inspired by several historical events and technologies? I think yes... Do BT seem to be one of the "harshest" Space Marine chapters.. i think also yes... Does it have any connections to modern day/past day politics? I think not... And thats where it needs to be... Just a fantasy game and not some political discussion or guessing...
Cuz when we start this, nearly any imperial faction has some "problematic" icons, gear, battlecry's and so on....
So long as you don’t fall into it too hard and infatuate yourself w/ it then you’re fine
You gotta acknowledge that 40k is inherently facisty satire
I've studied about 15 years the history of medieval crusades with focus on the teutonic order... and as a german dude i can tell you that our school history classes in high school/college are very detailed about history in connection of WWI and WWII... so the greater number of Germans is very aware of their historical and ethical disposition and their fault as inherits of this historical timespans....
As addition i lived as a son of a german soldier... i lived about 12 years with Americans, Brits and Canadians who remembered me very often about this fault...
So trust me when i say that i just like BT cuz they lorewise fit their cruel role very well... And i really can divide between RL and a fantasy game....
All nobs done
Fucked up on the badmoon symbol using tamiya panel liner,so I'm just gonna wait til it dries then paint over it again
@visual turret @shut forge I hope this is cleared now once and for all in connection to me.
I don't think anyone was accusing you of anything, they were just speaking generally. The Black Templar community in general has a serious Fascist problem.
Yup and as someone who heard this literally his entire life i don't really like to discuss it anymore.. As also the historical/political reference is a thing that is generally prohibited under rule 11 of this server...
yeah i wasn't accusing or implying anyone here is like that, of course not
Yup i know this problem and i literally distance myself to any political standing by playing/owning Black Templars... It's a game i just want to enjoy with every part of it's lore and so on.
Yeah, lore wise I like them. It's only in the way the real world interacts that I worry. It's why I don't wear the veteran top that's all black with red arm bands, it isn't that I don't like the look, it's that I just worry about looking like a freak
Okay, I'm just pointing out that no one else was bringing that up or saying you were a Fascist, they were just talking about the faction stylistically and why they personally don't like it. There's no need to be defensive over it.
That's why i keep my minis showcased in private or on dedicated sections of hobby-discords and so on...
I also would not really wear any BT themed clothing or patches that could give the rest of the world a negative "right wing" vibe about me...
I've got dual crab fexes to paint, and I want them to pop like old style nids
So I've been looking at crabs
Good reference tbh
Thanks, 3rd edition inspired me
I see you got 'em already
The pretty thing for nids is that you just can get inspired by any kind of crab/bug
Exactly. They also use some lizards, which makes me want to do some tree dart frogs
If i would play nids i literally would go for hive fleet jormungandr... like the black/yellow scheme
Nice inspiration ^^
the blue poison dart frog would also be a nice scheme
Very nice!
Wish I could say its finished 😅
Does anyone know a good place to get flesh tearer transfers?
This could be something (no ad!):
https://www.chaptercustomizer.com/collections/all/flesh-tearers
Sweet thank you
I know Etsy has a lot of printed shoulders if you ever want for other models
This would also be a good guess
Done with the bases,tooth highlights and blood
You're a warhammer fan in a video game discord server Everybody already assumes that
Sad world then...
No, because it's inconsequential. Who cares about how people think you appear to be when you know what you are
Everybody will always assume things if they just see you, about anything.
I know what you mean.. but i think there i got a "lack" in my thinking cuz of my job... I'm working in the social sector and if i would ever be connected seriously with this stuff i would loose my job and never find a new one cuz i'm a so called "person of official interest"
I doubt your entire career would be up-ended over a black templar shirt, just i wouldn't wear any patches (obviously because thats lame) or wear anything warhammer related to work
I walk around wearing a berserk behelit and patients think im the anti christ
Oh it would here... people are very aware to cancel people that are suspected to be in an extrimistic thinking...
And thats why i only wear some common merch like Star Wars or so... something more "neutral" or "accepted" ^^
most of that will just come down to brush control and practice honestly
That's ironic. Censoring people like that is right out of the Fascist playbook
It's ridiculous that you can't openly appreciate something from your cultural heritage
Ye kinda.. but it's normal... if i want to get a job in my profession, i even have to show my future boss/institution a copy of my police record so that they can comprehend if i ever commited a crime... if it would be so i would automatically get no job cuz i wouldn't be suitable
Or inspired by it in this case
In social sector we need to be as "neutral" as possible so that nobody can "cry" around
Walking on eggshells like that all the time sounds exhausting
Yup. That's why i seperate work from my private life... I don't really have private relations to my colleagues so that there can be no talk behind me over my private life XD
That's sad. Some of my close friends are coworkers
Some of my coworkers are really cool and even have same (non 40k) hobbies.. but i don't connect to them so that i just can do my private stuff as usual...
some know i play 40k and even have seen pics of my BT and LoV but for that they just say i'm a "gamer nerd" and thats it XD
But back to minis.. I'm currently working on my second Sternguard Veteran... the troop members will get a white/woolcolored tabard instead of a red one... will post a pic of the wip tabard when shades dried...
Which Weaponry?
And what chapter?
Macro Plasma and Onslaught chain gun. Raven Guard as always


