#40k-minis-and-armies
1 messages · Page 53 of 1
thanks!
Just as fucking traumatic as the first time I saw the kit bash... on second thought it's even more traumatising in paint.
Good job, love the look, don't come any closer to me with those tentacles.
Thou shalt come to the tentacles
Or the tentacles shalt cometh to thy
Daemonic artillery disagrees
Malcador my beloved
What's peoples opinions on White scar primer? I got some to paint my EC marines
I have both chaos black and white scar
I found vallejo rust, I can commit heresy with the way this turns out
Working on base
Insane, love the creativity with colour.
Hu mon faces.
METAAAAAAAAL
How did you get them so reflective
Chromebois
Pretty cooool
super chrome
They are Terminator themed. T1 and T2. Like Skynet machine army.
Is that a paint? Do you know which brand?
That is it's name. It's pretty new stuff I think
Here's what I got going on, I should write a short story on this. The Ogryn, the guardsmen, and the big hat man.
expand on the story
Maybe
Oof, new Oath of Moment rules looks like it’ll suck for Super Heavies/Titans/Knights.
If your going up against Astartes.
Is priming yellow a good idea when starting fists?
would probably work if your gonna rely on washes for shadows.
But like, you could always prime black and spray on on your Yellow over like, 90% of the mini.
I was going to prime a Yello dry brush a different shade of yellow, and then wash it with seraphim sepia
Then highlight
But idk I just want to avoid the chalky look as best as I can
My first 40k mini - Brother Furio from the Space Marine Heroes boxes. Long way to go, but I think it turned out all right!
The background wall paired with the light makes him look like he’s running through firey smoke
accidentally good
Looks good though, thin ur paints
good job
More progress, 90% done
The flesh is weak
I love the white gold combo kinda looks like a holy demon or a prime from warframe
ye that gold plate coat reminds me of chroma prime or oberon prime
My brushes are kicking the bucket, anyone know a good set I can order off of Amazon?
So I want to begin painting for the first time and I currently only have enamel paint to work which I know isn't the best option but I want to know do you guys have any tips or should I get hold of acrylic when I can
Id get acrylics. Granted, I've had limited experience with enamel but its a lot tougher to work with. You need to use solvent to thin it down, the drying time is a lot longer, the coverage isn't always as good, it gives off fumes, and finally, you'll need a primer first anyway
Cool just wanted to make sure I do it right the first time
Yeah, acrylic will be a better time for your first mini for sure.
Especially if youre trying to follow tutorials and techniques that are specific to wargaming minis
Nom nom
Rogue Trader conversion from Kasrkin model: I like the Escher Rapier, but I need to get it onto the Kasrkin close combat arm. Just cutting at the wrist won't do as well since it's the wrong sided hand...
It only took...45 minutes...to get rid of the hand in the Escher Rapier
and all done!
neat
Nice! I would probably have just made these cuts to glue the blade on since the grips are pretty similar, but respect going all the way for it!
Any tips on using colors like wraithbone as basecoat?
Since I used it one time and the coverage isn’t great
Now only missing the head I want from Imperial Navy Breachers.
(Which apparently, the heads from that set is so well designed, can't find many UK sellers on EBay. Which they are well designed, TBH)
Rogue Trader with the Monomolecular Rapier and the Heirloom Pistol
Wearing Stromtrooper/Kasrkin armour, like TTRPG Rogue Trader allows them to.
Starting to feel a bit burnt out with these fellows but getting close to the finish line
They look amazing! Keep pushing youre almost there!!
Cheers! 🫡
Again, insane
appreciate it
Depends on the model. If it's the majority of a model as colour, spray it on (GW sells it as a spray can iirc). Otherwise, multiple thin coats.
also if you're using a brush to apply it, don't apply it straight over black but try to have a lighter colour between the black and the wraithbone. Some grey or warm toned beige for better coverage
Don't have the ability to get sprays
So a light grey primer
Since I got an Airbrush to prime, I might just use it to base coat wraith bone
oh yeah an airbrush will make it a lot more easier
Yea if it works on my test plague marine I would be having an easy time
Ogg the ogryn, also here is what I did with the fallen Cadian, it's not what I usually do as I think too much gore takes away from models.
And for not spamming reasons the two other models I got done this weekend.
Wtf, Ogryn can have lascannon looking things! How is that not in the game.
First time, painting my cannoness
That’s a conversion, lascannon ogryn aren’t an official option. A damn good conversion too
We might get a gun lugger one day
They used to many addtions ago. Now its just loreb
Thank you.
Oh really that’s cool! I started in 5th, but have tried a game of 2nd with some rulebook pdfs which was a lot of fun.
Inquisitor/Rogue Trader conversions power couple
and I just realised the Inquisitor (left), at a distant glance
looks a bit like the mace wielding cultistsXD
nice
Some of the old cast metal models are pretty cool.
I picked up a Sororitas metal Caoness (could be fake but it has the right marks on the tangs) Didn't come sealed but had the original backing card from the blister pack.
Planning to get it sent off for a commission paint job when I've got some of the army painted. Along side the Made to order Retro Canoness Veridyan.
Dude. That looks amazing!
Do you mind telling me how you gave the armour that nice shadowy look?
Many thanks! It’s an oil wash. Just Windsor Black oil paint. Super thinned down
I do love the look of Gravis armor, though the cowl kind of seems odd since its usually a Librarian thing.
Yeah Gravis armour has always been am odd one for me too. I wanna love it and part of me does. But I really just see it as a half replacement to terminator armour (atleast before they announced new ones )
Honestly they really just need to make Phobos a replacement for Scout Armor, or Make a version of Phobos thats got smaller shoulder pads or something.
I feel like Terminator armor is still its own thing, though I wish they made the models even bigger than they did with the refresh. ( I sort of figure they don't want people to feel like they need to sell old termies)
Gravis as is is neat, I think its a good look for like Devestators and such.
Yeah the utter erasure of scouts is a big sad
I never liked the OG scouts models.
Yeah, I'm building the Phobos marines up from Moroch as Salamanders 7th company.... I like the idea of like, Wolf Claws, Black Templar Neophytes etc.
The kinds of chapters that have unique stuff for their scouts other than just... Here, take Carapace Armor because your new and do recon till you have more experience.
Updated some of my models with transfers. First time trying this and I should have done them before the varnish but lesson learnt.
Forget all your preconceptions of war, of battle-lines clashing in the churned ground. Your mission is to attack before the foe even realises that the war has begun, to strike hard at those vital weaknesses that all armies possess, but that no commander will admit to. Under my tutelage you will learn how to seek out such fragilities and smite them with every weapon at your disposal. Master these duties and I will have nothing more to teach, and you will truly be a Space Marine.
I like that line and I think it could definitely apply to Reivers and Infiltrators.
But at the same time, a stripped down Phobos pattern armor that has like, no heavy left side shoulder pad and maybe a plain power pack, plain chest piece etc could be a good way to represent scouts.
So that when they become a full battle brother, they're given more pieces to add to their suit of armor, kind of like a Knight getting their spurs.
Crisp
Honestly can't tell from the photos.
worst case, some weathering with a sponge could make them blend in more. But it looks like your scheme is fairly clean.
Only one I can sort of tell is the Aquilla on the officer's chest.
But like, even then, just makes it look embossed.
Solid idea
Thank you I appreciate the feedback. I'm still learning and trying new or existing techniques that will make my models seem more alive
A happy accident lol but yh I may go over that in a light matt varnish but I'm not decided yet
Yes and I have the set version too
Yeah.
Fun fact I had originally painted the officers aquila and shoulder marking in yellow to appear golden but this was ambitious and looked awful lol so I removed and reapplied them
Even this, looks kind of cool. Though I'd probably go with power armor legs.
Power armour legs on that would be mint
I'm eternally glad that mistakes just look like it was meant to be that way when painting chaos.
I'd probably carry on the body glove style texture from the abdomen/stomach along the arms myself, but thats just because I think space marines with bare arms looks stupid.
Can't go wrong when it's supposed to be 
Yeah the black carapace pattern on the abs is sick
Thats the fibro muscle layer, the Black Carapace is under the skin.
Its like, why marines have ports all over their bodies.
They're also for 5G
XD
Some kind of sealed suit would definitely be the play. As much as big guns look sick on Arnold in predator it doesn’t fit a space marine
Watch an iconic Warhammer 40,000 scene rendered in stunning detail. https://bit.ly/3pOLDBt
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I do like the removal of the Primaris distinction in rules, since it seems like the vast majority of chapers are going to eventually cross the rubicon primaris. Which makes it what it really should have been originally, just an explination for a Model upscale and some new wargear designs. (except those orky rocket launchers they did not long ago, they're shit)
Like, any marine thats a firstborn at this point is likely a veteran, so you could argue that a Firstborn Veteran equals or exceeds a Primaris marine in ability.
Id agree with that
But yeah, they definitely should have made the Terminators even bigger, maybe wider too.
Its still definitely bigger, the Gravis arms just make it look chunkier than it is.
I've always personally felt that Terminator Armor is held back by GW's insistance that like, the Marine's hands are where the terminator's hands are. Feels kind of hard for it to be a walking tank when there is only so much material around their wrists/hands.
So like, I almost feel like the hands and feet should be fly-by-wire to an extent and the heads should be more sunk down like Cataphracti Terminator armor.
Thinking of that if there could be some scaled up cataphracti that’d be tight
I mean scaling up 3d prints is pretty easy and most Termie ranged weapons are easy enough to clip away from the main arm in Windows 3dmaker or blender.
If you want to keep the vanilla scale.
I should stop talking about marines though, 1 Loyalist kill team is enough for this Heretical household.
gallowfall is out??
On order
I just got the combat patrol for the retribution crusade
I just gave a bottle of scotch to my buddy from the LGS XD
Best pre-order there is.
But yeah, plans are to Chaos up the Votann and re-fluff them as worshipers of Hashut as a Chaos God (though its their Ancestor Core thats been corrupted by chaos)
I'm a big fan of Duergar in D&D so going for a simmilar vibe.
And I'll turn the beastmen into pestigors as allies for my Moebians.
Those new beastmen in gallow just make me sad as a fantasy beastmen player
They look so good
I mean, they'd be super easy conversions.
But there’s only a few of em
10, I think?
HAH, managed to find my old Battle for Macragge starter set. And its still got all 5 of the old genestealers in it.
Half way to a 10 genestealer kill team. I mean its got all the old 'gaunts too so I could make one as-is.
I know warriors are better for meta because Synapse and Will of the Hive Mind but all Genestealers just speaks to me.
Really wish I'd got the space hulk relaunch though, didn't hear about it when it came out.
The size scale of termies they did in Dawn of War 2 was pretty good
like Terminators were huge compared to marines
even the size diff in the Iron Within show was what I assume the size to be like
Yeah
Im just gonna draw them huge.
And plus, the minis are all in Epic Scaled Proportions or summat
can't spend all day munching on Guardsmen, here have a side of salad
"Shoot or Run?" - John "Left for dead" two
shoot while running
ooh, nice use of sphagum moss. How are you going to preserve it/prevent damage to it?
it's dried decorative moss that came in a plastic bag, I really don't know how or if it need to be preserved
Oh, I thought you took it from outside. This stuff grows everywhere in a park near me.
Tbh plants are a lot more resilient than you'd think. I superglued some conifer branches to some bases like 10+ years ago as a little terrain decor and aside from drying out and going brown, they're relatively unscathed. And this was without coating them with anything.
I meant more the losing colour and accidentaly knocking some off when picking up the model. Then again, I have some moss in a jar (as a reference, kept in the dark), and it hasn't lost it's colour in more than a year
"What are you doing?"
"Nothing, just watering my minis"
But yeah, since I started up again with 40k, I've glued some conifer to one of my other bases now, and this time given it a base coat, will paint it green/brown, and varnish and it should last for ages
Oh my god it's the Brundelf
Looks really good, is that carapace a call out to arachnid warriors?
not really
One day I was painting a smaller kitbash, and I thought I'd just add yellow stripes
this one
since that day
all my nids got the racing yellow stripes
Almost done with 2k points
how good is noviciate kill team?
Looks dope for a Death Guard.
Despite stripes being fairly common in animal life, it's not a feature I see often on modeled creatures. Looks good man.
Beautiful
they're racing stripes, make nids go faster
also, thanks
Tonk
Yes but still unfinished
Great job
Admech journey started
Most people shouldn't have an issue on 32mm bases for genestealers since new genestealers from GSC come on them right?
Managed to score some of the space hulk genestealers and a couple of GS patriarchs to proxy in as leaders. Not sure if I'll try to cram the patriarchs onto 32's or just 40's (won't be using them outside Kill Team unless I build a boarding actions force purely from GS)
I'd be tempted to sand down the shield bit.
and replace the window with some clear plastic.
either that or drill the front to make some bullet impacts.
drill/hot pin
Hm I like that idea.
Also gonna be dumb but I think I can use an old bit of plastic shaped like an "L" to make one of the Space Hulk 2014 floor bursting Genestealers come out of a wall.
"They're coming outta the goddamn walls!"
I know some people apparently think the SH 2014 genestealer models look weird on tabletop but I don't think every pose needs to make sense in every situation.
Honestly I don't think they're gonna be more egregious than like, Gulliman dragging around that Aquilla head to stand on.
Do crimson fists even have a trim or is it just a lighter blue?
Found this while going through some old childhood stuff
Man, the Pre-heresy Emperor's Children look awesome.
But they turned out the worst.
You know, this kinda reminds me of these miniature trains.
At first glance, at least.
beautiful purple orcs:)
Doesn’t suck totally believable
Should’ve clarified: using it in the actual board game sucks, the mini itself I’m satisfied with
Ah well I don’t/can’t actually play anyway

That’s fair. Thanks for the compliment
Thanks for reminding me it exists, just downloaded a pdf of it.
Considering my buddies and I want to build our own game board this will come in handy
I also have tonk
Lookin' good! Mine is not that far tbh... Tracks will be a thing that will be done soon
Can’t wait to see it
Will post when done 😉
Sweet
Hey guys, i'm trying to strip some models both 40k and WarMachine that I painted some time ago (my very first time ever getting into the hobby.) They were all painted grotesquely with TEST Enamel paint. I've tried soaking them in Isopropyl (91%) for at least what most people recommend @ 25m to 2hr intervals and then once proven failure after several attempted scrubbings with a toothbrush with no success. I've determined that the alcohol is not going to be good enough but don't know what to use to make the process easier. I'm US so whatever products some of you outside the US use I may not have access to (or maybe expensive). Any suggestions?
First off never trust any hobbyist about stripping paint, I deal with paint chemistry on a daily basis and this is going to be a multi-part message because the bot keeps deleting all of my messages that have to do it dead space. The majority of hobbyists do not know a single thing about this and will only go off of advice that they've heard from years and years past that are really really bad and have zero to do with how the chemistry of paint works, Most of them don't even realize that the paint that they use can be stripped with baking soda and hot water because of how badly they've damaged the acrylic copolymers in it with how they thin it.
First off two strip acrylic paint you want to use LA's totally awesome, not IPA as IPA will actually cause the bonds of polystyrene to destabilize and it will actually cause them to crack and turn to dust over several years after exposure.
For enamel paint specifically the testors paint, look for mineral spirits at a hardware store. This will generally remove it without that much issue for polystyrene. IPA will not affect it at all, It's Tamiya paint that can sort of be affected by it but it is erroneously called enamel when it is not.
If the models are made out of resin do not bother stripping it unless you know exactly what type of resin it is, for instance GW resin is super porous to the point that most chemicals will cause it to turn into a rubber like material.
If the models are made out of a metal then use acetone, do not use acetone with plastic models no matter what.
Do not use acetone free nail polish remover as this will actually destroy polystyrene
If you want to make a solution yourself you're going to need a bunch of different chemicals including caustic soda and I do not recommend making it yourself.
Also keep in mind that you cannot dump testors paint down the sink, It is a highly toxic pollutant that does kill ecosystems and wildlife and small amounts you need to dispose of it correctly.
This includes after it has dried, a lot of pigments are very toxic for the environment and people do not realize this, just because it won't harm you does not mean it won't kill fish and other aquatic life. Also it wouldn't be the first time I've had to deal with a hobbyist causing someone to almost die from toxic fume inhalation because "It worked for them"
He will be finished tomorrow. Finally got my paint for the skin
On that note, what’s a good resin base that can be stripped later? If such a thing exists.
Posted the bazooka Joe earlier. Here is the team + base complete
that looks sweet af
Most 3d printing resin believe it or not.Most casting resin is very mediocre. I'll probably be doing a long form test on this stuff at some point too as I need to know some things myself
Thanks
So the models i bought are a official plastic kit i bought at a hobby store (i'm quite unsure of what the makeup up the models/sprus are). I haven't seen any damage to the models after some time in the alcohol so I'm assuming it hasn't affected them much. Mineral spirits would probably be my best bet then?
or at least for testing
Good to know.
It has potentially, 30 minutes of soaking will cause them to deteriorate quicker if the IPA penetrated the paint enough. Do not display them where the sun hits at all also. Mineral spirits will work in theory(it will in 95% of cases), I know the testors ELO will strip them and be relatively safe for plastic, but I believe thats mostly mineral spirits(not actually sure as I cant seem to find an MSDS for it, so I have to contact rustoleum{the parent company} later this week) . I know there are a lot of products that will work but there isn't much data on them with polystyrene degradation yet. Currently working on that but I dont have access to the acceleration chamber enough to get the results anytime soon .
alright well thank you for the tips
i appreciate it ^___^
No problem. This is like one of the few things I know so I'm always glad to share the information
the red for their fists is also used for one kneecap. the rest is just blue with the highlights.
Ultramarine - Wip. For a display sample.
This is awesome. Shame it’s a limited edition mini.
I got it off of eBay
Yeah, might have to do the same.
Opinions on Abberants as Tyrannid warrior proxies?
cool, maybe a little more nidz bits
I'll probably add 3rd/4th arms. I've got some spare Mcragge genestealers left over that can be uh... a source of biomass.
it works, post pictures and ping me when your done!
I'll probably be running 10x Genestealers to start with for the kill team. I've picked up 2x Patriarchs on ebay(idk why I got 2, they're just such a dope model) and managed to score 8 of the Space Hulk 2014 Genestealers.
If people are unhappy with my Patriarchs on 40mm bases as Genestealer Leaders I can always use the broodlord from SH on a 32mm
I know the Compendium lists them as 25mm but 25mm is stupid for GS and they come on 32mm in GS Cult boxes.
And I mean, worse case I can just measure them as if they're 25 it isn't hard to make a spare ruler for it.
Okay, I think I got it figured out. Abberant Hypermorph as Weaponbeast Warrior, just got to kitbash some bone swords onto its remaining 3 arms, treating the tail as the whip.
Kitbash in a mining laser being used one handed for a heavy gunner in place of a Venom Cannon, boneswords in the remaining to hands (or swap one for a pick)
And another with a heavy stubber in place of a deathspitter or devourer, again with bone swords or picks/mauls.
For painting tanks, I’ve heard mixed opinions on leaving the tracks on the sprue to prime/paint. What’s the general consensus here?
depends on the tank I suppose
for landraiders for example it's pretty easy to have them separate but with rhinos I wouldn't bother
I’ve only painted two basilisks and I covered them with so much mud that I only bothered to paint the top ends. So probably depends how your gonna finish it.
Leman Russ for reference
those are visible all the way around right? I'd probably do them separate so the areas beneath the tracks won't stay unpainted
Hmm. Might kitbash the commander to make him more in line with the new kits
I love this so much.
Thank ye
Remember to paint the back of the air vents
Other than that, looks perfect bro. How tf did you do the skin??
Bugman's glow, reikland flesh, cadian fleshtone, and then kislev flesh. I had a good eyes instead of using magnify glass. As long I have a good lighting.
It's still WIP. Once that's done, I'll do the base next
Yeah, those lictors look pretty great
Finally finished the Command Squad. Here is the standard bearer.
And here is the squad in full. Overall these guys were a fun yet challenging project to undertake. And I'm glad I did, its taught me valuable lessons for future projects and hones in my painting ability. Admittedly I struggled, got frustrated and hurried some aspects during painting (evident (probably) in the flag bearer mostly) so not all of them look the same quality wise. Nonetheless I am proud to call these my own and hope to use them as a jump start to a greater pursuit in the hobby as these are my first fully painted squad
Agents Boarding Patrol set preorder coming Saturday…can’t wait.
@rare hornet Tonk got tracks and turret gunner
Thanks but many things are missing
so i think im gonna try something
im gonna buy a bunch of 40k Guardsman minifigs off of AliExpress
then imma build a variety of (mostly) size accurate vehicles to field them with (also lego)
and try using them in a game
what are these wings on the CP phobos lt.? a jump pack? surely not?
Stabilisers?
Can’t wait for an important character to get mauled and turned into a primaris marine
But I am all for it
and from the 2001 ccg
well 2002 for this card
my 3rd ed Nid codex has a 2003 copyright
codex release was also on 2001, probably same team worked on them both?
Dante remembers
DONE FINALY

Is it worth magnetizing my first Leman Russ or build it as the standard and work on magnetizing others
do you have the magnets already and do you care about the sponsons?
Sponsons I’ve heard I can just insert those without magnetizing. I have magnets but they’re 2x1 mm so probably would need bigger ones
Goff Rocka finally came in the mail, probably the most fun painting I've ever done.
Decided to paint a blood angle for the hell of it
Apothecary ready
Lovely miniature, I wish I could churn out more of my minis I feel burnt from my studies
Yeah I know what it's like to get burnt out
I've been getting a lot of marines done lately but i've still got the energy to do so
I think it might have something todo with painting being my way to cope with depression? 🙃
I am burnt not from the minis just in general
I wanted something to do that I can look at and say I did this and I don’t care how small and silly it is
Yeah I get you
How do you mean?
I don’t know make stuff
You got any minis to do?
Yea I have a bunch
I just don’t have time
I do weekends
But these too weeks oof
Kind of why I'm focusing hard on conversions atm while I wait for 10th rules to come out.
Yeah I mostly have weekends as well, I just enjoy making the most of the time I have to paint
Might try something
I have 10 space marine tactical squad
I’ll just paint each one a different colour
And test things
Not a bad idea
It’s definitely a fun one
Up next on the todo list is my tech marine in gravis armour
Good luck
Still not sure what I'm gonna do with my 2nd Patriarch. I don't really want to start a GSC cults army per-se as I'm not big on their other models outside the Abberants and the new bike sniper.
Current theories are to either start a Necromunda GSC gang based around he Water Guild but I don't know anyone who plays Necromunda, or a Water Cartel/Aquatic GSC army.... make the GS kind of cthulu esque.
Main plan was just to build a 10 GS Kill team, I'd probably never run the Gaunts option but the warriors are just 3 extra models and doing them as Abberants works simply enough.
I really hope they update the GS models with this new release though.
While they're not the worst models, the SH Genestealers and the Patriarch make the old models really show their age.
panel shading plsss
I think he looks fine as is
The pictures don’t do a good job of showing the finished result :3
Could always do a little edge highlight with some titanium white.
Might make the existing panels look a little darker.
But like, also give it the same effect.
White is hard tho.
give it to a gaming friend so they can use it for bitz/basing decoration.
I mean, I don't want to get rid of it. Just not sure what to specifically do with it.
Any suggestions on brushes that are middle of the pack? Need to get some new ones as mine are starting to get worn out (they’ve served me well and will be shifted to less detailed work)
I don’t mean to tag or bother you again but the mineral spirits seem to be much more effective on the models I am stripping. However I do have a couple of questions:
1.) While some of the TEST enamel paint is showing signs of stripping, there are some spots where it seems pretty well settled in. I have read that depending on the primer used results will vary. Since you seem more knowledgeable on that is this for the most part true or should I continue to have pro longed periods of bathing for my minis? (Scrub with brush soak scrub with brush soak)
2.) I have read differing results on a product call Citristrip Stripping Gel. Just out of curiosity is the equivalent to the more known bio strip and other like products used to strip minis?
Again thank you for the advice the other night ^__^
Citristrip can melt polystyrene. This isn't me saying it, this is the company that makes it saying it and they have warned hobbiests about this for years and they argue then blame the company for when it melts their models. It's chemically similar to acetone free plastic glue.
The safest paint stripper I've used for PS is LA's totally awesome, it is like biostrip but massively superior. It can be gotten at dollar general or home depot. It's also one of the best cleaning solutions I've found too.
You will probably have to use a tooth brush to get the rest of the paint off too, generally speaking you'd let it sit in the stripping solution for about 12-24 hours(this 5-30 minute thing is weird because no paint company will ever agree with that number too) . Dont worry about pinging me, as I said I'm always glad to help.
I do not know the prolonged effects of mineral spirits on polystyrene as I have never seen a research paper on it weirdly enough. I assume it isn't great for super prolonged periods because polystyrene is kind of a shitty plastic and reacts to just about everything
Thousand son Ammitara Occult scout progress
Windsor and newton cottman, Simply simmons, Royal and langnickle, Rosemerry and co. Ignore all hobby branded brushes as most just use Windsor and newton or rosemerry and co as their supplier, with a lot just actually being dropped shipped aliexpress things with maybe some branding at the most.
Use green to dark down red, not black. Black will make it muddy while small bits of green will give you cleaner darker reds.
been itching to do a moebian 6th killteam, just grabbed some STLs that im gonna start printing tomorrow
Stripping paint is mid, simply prime over it 🥰
Stationforge ftw
Unless you want to rescue the details covered by thick paint.
You know it
When considering Windsor and newton what series would you go for? I’ve heard series 7 but I want to make sure.
series 7 is garbage and arcylic paints actually destroy sable hair brushes and should never be used for them, there is actually massive 4000+ page journals on this too weirdly enough but people in this hobby tend to deny they do harm a lot. The ones I mentioned are called cottman.
Oh right the watercolor brushes
they are nice for the price, but I still prefer simply simmons, even more so their titanium line
Fair enough. If I were to go with cottman, any suggested sizes?
wip chronomancer
So what is it with watercolor style brushes and being decent with acrylics?
Oh that is nice
Aside from the staff that thing looks finished already
What kind of time frame would you expect a sable brush to be ruined by acrylics given moderate use? If the answer is a few years, then I can understand why nobody gives a shit that they need to throw their sable brushes away since $30 every few years is practically nothing given the expense of this hobby to begin with.
BEHOLD
my stuff
b ö g
Is not watercolor style it's just materials that get used. There really isn't that much different with modern synthetic brushes between oil, acrylic, and watercolor style.
About a year or two If you take obsessive care with it, a few days if you're not obsessive about it.
Ah. I gotcha. So for regular 40k miniatures what sizes would be recommended? 0 and 1? 000 for really fine detail?
Here's the problem with that, brush sizes are not universal. They aren't even close when it comes to size, like a 000 can literally be a size 3 on a different brand. And really it's just whatever size you find the most comfortable, I personally use a very specific type of brush for fine detail but I don't recommend it for most people and it's called a spotter, The majority of my work is done with a bright and I do a lot of the weird damage effects of the cat's tongue. Round is not something I use as much as people think that I would.
You can do everything with around though just like you could do everything with a bright or a flat It's just about whether or not you want to put the time and effort into learning that one specific brush to do everything with it or to use every brush and not have to bother with that
Makes sense. I just don’t have a store nearby to judge how fine or not that size brush is in person. I’d like to avoid just buying brushes only to find out they’re too big to use for the purposes I have but that might just be unavoidable.
Generally size 1 or 2 works for a general purpose brush, though as stated that can vary between brands.
Got any idea how well the synthetic sable brushes w&n do would hold up?
do GW make only slotta bases now?
Size 2 can be incredibly huge, like I have one that's a 1" diameter that's a size 2.
Find an art supply store near you or go to one of the large online ones, it'll give you sizes by mm
Depends on how well you take care of them
is that still an art brush or is it a paintbrush for houses and stuff? x)
Art. As I said, The sizes are not universal. And this is a brush from one of the larger companies.
murder buckets and their chronomancer finished
What are the little dudes called, they are very cute
murder buckets 🙂
jk they're canoptek cryptothralls i believe
Very cool, my intro to 40K was Flayed Necrons, so it’s always a joy seeing new necrons I’ve never seen before
just wait till you see smth like a skorpekh lord
They look awesome, the C’tan kits I’ve seen look crazy
the void dragon is pretty good
I'm well aware they're not universal, though they're usually somewhat close. I'm just surprised you found a size 2 with a 1" diameter is all.
What would actually be the signs that the brush is ruined in that way? I've used sable brushes with acrylic hobby paints and not noticed anything beyond slow general wear. I don't usually take obsessive care with my brushes beyond alternating swirling in water cup then wiping with a tissue until it no longer leaves any colour on the tissue once I've finished my painting for the day. Just curious if I'm missing something.
I should start painting again
They lose their accuracy, The oils get stripped on them which means that they don't actually hold as much paint, They start losing hairs and losing their tip, They have a lot of other issues as well. And you really need to wash the brush off with brush soap because they are expensive for one but also it's an animal that died to make that brush, take better care of it.
It's more common than you'd think. When you get into the round territory you have a lot of really different versions of them that they don't immediately tell you and you just have to know when you see them, kind of like a pinstriping brush that gets called a round a lot
i need help, i paint my mini sub assembly for details. However I cant glue my minis with plastic cement glue (because its covered with primers and paint. what is the alternative to that? super glue?
can you sand the surfaces for the glue clean with an emery board?
also yeah most people use super-glues, there's specific kinds for modeling.
its messy if i do that
can u recommend which kind?
i like zap-a-gap but that's just me
don't buy from citidel, they overcharge the hell out of things like that
citadel have super glue? weird
it's best to pick it up at your local games or modeling store, they'll have a decent selection and you can ask them for good advice.
would u recommend gorrilla gel super glue?
some gorilla glue is good, some is too messy. plus it usually has too wide an application.
because i want it to set on the piece and then i push the pieces toghether to glue it toghether
like arms and head
The primer won't affect anything when it comes to plastic glue.
Who ever says it does doesn't understand that acrylic paints are literally plastic and won't stop something designed to melt plastic
it doesnt form a strong bond when i tried to glue it
and it melt my paint so i need an alternative
so dis you finish making the eviscerator version of Xarl?
I do it all the time All you have to do is hold it on for a little bit, The glue doesn't actually cause any problem when it comes to the weld. You should be holding it on anyways. You can just extend the time it takes to fully cure by maybe a minute.
Your alternatives though aren't going to be as helpful as you would think, A super glue is going to cause more issues where it will actually burn the paint, pva is not going to hold If you're planning on using it as a game piece. The type of glue that you would want is not something that you could easily get. You'll need to use strengthened epoxy, which is another mess of a problem using that
do you just drip it on the joint and stick them toghether
i have a brush cement so i have to brush the glue while holding the pieces toghether
and then some of them can touch my paint surface melting it
I use regular gorilla super glue for my 3D prints, works pretty well.
Although tbh, this is one reason that sub assembly painting is kind of a pain in the ass
I don't bother with it
Yes, however you might want to use a slightly thicker glue in this situation
The issue is that it's painted, the heat created by the CAglue will cause problems for the paint
is this an area of effect thing
like melting surround paint
Kind of, it can start a fire if you're not careful
😳
well im out of ideas
It's unlikely but I have started fires with CA glue on purpose before, it's really not hard to do
i just need a good glue (preferably gel) for my sub assemblies
It can happen accidently, just wait 4-8 months after painting before using CA glue
It cures by reacting with water molecules in the air
It would probably be faster and easier to sand the paint off the joints
how is this one
i want a glue that doesnt dry instantly so i can have time adjusting my joints
I personally just glue it with paint and dont give a fuck but thats me and my level of expertise, plus i'm lazy and stupid
Lol
thats not a bad one ive heard
Does that work? Paint can hold things like glue?
Revells glue is quite decent
paint holds onto the plasic alright, so it's fine if you don't expect to bump it a lot. i expect my friends to knock over my minis with whatever dumb crap they're holding so i glue my minis before painting.
god forgive me for what I'm about to do (put way too many minis on this build plate)
I have it’s good
Just don’t over do it
Less is more
Predator side weaponry... still wip
well... yes... Do you know what the bind for acrylic paints are made from? It tends to be mixtures of polyvinyl alcohol(and acetate aka wood glue), and polybutyl acetate
yeah its the same polymers used in glue, its just a lower solids count generally
Wip, first time painting something that isn't a space marine and having so much fun trying new things out.
looks really good man
iirc is just pure butyl acetate, which is a good plastic glue
would you happen to know what kind of polymer UV resin is made with?
I suppose it would vary from resin to resin
What did you do for the flesh and bone sprouts?
Can't you cover the joints with a tiny amout of blu/sticky tack before spraying?
Needed a break from painting so built the next load of stuff
The arms are stuck with super glue to the metal, 2 sided sticky foam for the bodies (probs could do it with ca glue as well)
First time trying this mind you, haven't done sub assemblies at this level before.
I'll probably have to be really careful when gluing this back together after painting, so that excess glue doesn't spill on to the painted bits.
It’s usually not too bad. Had to do it for my Krak Missile team since the launcher was too close to the model. As long as you keep some places unpainted (which you will since you covered spots) you’ll be fine
Yeah, hope so too.
Just be relaxed when you set the arm and don’t move it around too much
I got a jar of this Liquitex modeling paste, anyone know if it would be any good for mud?
Finally got Farstalkers based and ready to prime
WiP Russ. Got lots of clean up to do
leman russy 🥵
Bone sprouts were just accidental. I fucked up on them so they are scuffed but skin is just simple Rakarth flesh with reikland fleshade over it then highlight with rakarth flesh again. Still learning so i didnt do anything special
the last of the sacresants is done gonna base her shortly
soon my entire own order army is done
Worth popping the minis off to do the base?
She's not standing too much in the thick
popping them off? i dont really have much in terms of resources so my basing is just this
I just meant is it worth it to detach the mini from the base to make doing the base easier
Some people would probably say yes.... especially with higher detailed bases
with higher detail yes
Or not attach the mini to begin with for a bit.
if you can assure the spot for the mini is easy to reattach
that is easier
just dont attach it first lol
no need to base already made minis with too much detail
i now have all 5 sacresants done and they look like some elite squad
That's my plan for the future
for now all I'm doing is mud so I don't need too much detail
Yes, I do. a lot are proprietary blends on different UV reactive resins
gotcha
was just wondering since I hear people say plastic glue won't work with resin
wonder if such a thing will ever be possible in the future
alright need to decide which ones are next from my sanctorum box
battle sister squad, 4 paragon warsuits and then at the end morvenn vahl
btw I saw your video on thinning paint
He wants a hug
An Iron hug?
he looks like he wants to borrow money
I've heard pink soap is good, would you recommend that or a different brand for sable?
think of plastic glue as more of a welding thing more than a glue
I use masters brush soap, I havent tried most brands as the majority tend to be a bit too harsh for the brushes I have
the power of redoing the edge highlights 3+ times 😬
great heavens I saw that and was flabbergasted
thanks!
you my friend should be eavy metal
takes me like a week to finish one of these bad boys tho
worth
Could I get a harlequin troupe that looks like the payday gang?
let me know how it goes. I prefer sub assembly because i can paint the heard to reach spot and details.
You'd probably need to source different masked heads, might be some 3D printing involved.
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/spooky-harlequins-alternative-head-and-jet-canopy-bits
Something like that maybe
Kudos to Andy Macourek!
Alternative Spooky Clowns bits for Space Elf-Clowns. Mix parts to your willing and create greatest clown show in the whole universe!
> If you want those helmets printed right away - see here :) <
Want to stay in tune with what's next? - see here :)
**This...
Payday styled necromunda gang could be pretty cool.
Love me purestrains
I dicked about with the arms on some because I thought it was funny
Can't wait for my SH 'stealers to arrive.
That’s the ticket
First Patriarch just arrived. (just gonna use it as a GS Leader)
Nice, I’m probably going to do a magus and a patriarch, alternating between the two
I bought a broodlord to proxy as a patriarch since that shit cost money !!!
I'll need to strip off some pretty chalky primer but thats not a big deal.
Just building these for Kill Team.
YK how you can make half of 3 neophytes in the unit box
like extra ones
without legs
And use extra bits from GS?
I’m going to get some mortars from my friend who plays guard and build little mortar dugouts, then put the half-neophyte inside
Gonna be doing a bit of brood brothers
Similar to this except open top due to the mortar
I like some of the GSC models. The Sniper on Bike, the Abberants and the Patriarch. Just not sold on GSC as a whole army.
But since the Wyrmblade kill Team doesn't let you take Genestealers I'm just gonna make a Hive Fleet Compendium KT
Either two fire teams 10x Genestealers total, half with Adrenal Glands or Kitbash 3 Counts-as Warriors out of 2 Aberants and a Hypermorph.
Patriarch as the GS Leader - If someone objects to me taking them on a 40mm base then I'll just swap it out for the Broodlord from SH 2014 on a 32mm base.
I outright refuse to put Genestealers on 25mm bases.
The balance is all wrong and its why plenty of Genestealers on ebay have broken hands.
Tyranids are already part of accepting the commandment of "Thou shalt have but 3mm of base contact at a single point on all models."
Gonna kind of do the same thing with the Floor-bursting genestealers from SH, I'll probably put one on the floor but the oher one I want to use 1/2 a Battle for Mcragge easybuild genestealer and glue it sideways onto a scratch built piece of wall. and show the oher half sliding up through a wall cavity, crawling through wiring harnesses and shit.
The SH models fix one of the worst parts about the normal kits, being that they're all just the same.
On these models the arms create most of the hard to reach areas. I'm pretty sure I could build some of the other guard KT members completely, because their pose wouldn't obstruct detail. But I'll post a picture when I paint the first batch.
Love him
Made some touch ups to the Russ
Hey, I'm scared of blending and glazing. I've tied it once and it went meh. For anyone comfortable with blending/glazing, could you tell me the steps you took to get to that point? I have a sister of battle and a tau that i got from a friend, just for this reason.
Ayyyy cousin let’s go bowling
Some how gets better every time I see it lol nice
That's the point of keeping working on it
good job making that 'nid as eye-searing as possible. they can't see what your plan is if they can't look directly at you without eyestrain!
Looks pretty fine to me.
@rare hornet tank nearly done... weathering and many little details still to do but if needed "battle ready" status... when completely done i will post the result
oooo yes, i'm loving the look
Thanks a lot tried my best to give it a good look.. i usually don't work with that much red XD
As the templar you really need those extra colours to make things pop
I’m guessing add some highlights along his clothing/flak armor/leather?
Yeah i like the dark style with much black and white as also much brass xD
But sometimes a bit red or green is really needed
Oh yeah
so now it's about adding some additional working tools, addtitional track parts and weathering, sand etc. to give that tank the last touch of "i'm straight in a battle" look XD
"that much red"
but tank is looking cool
Really... i never used that much red for a long time... Only red parts on my mini's are mostly the weapon platings...
And thanks... still not done as said but happy about having it mostly painted and assembled...
also not sure if it's my colourblind ass not seeing the paint,
but did you forgot to paint "inside" the sponson?
Sponson?
Painted fully could be the lightinf of the photo that makes it difficult to see
My local Warhammer store gives out free minis for painting, so I picked one up. This is the final product.
They must be rich LOL
Good job by the way
I like the blue and gold you chose
Thank you!
And I think it's more so they're either sponsored by or just are a Games Workshop store. But the place is literally just called "Warhammer"
Very good start, get a feeling for the paint so that the coats of paint are not too thick.. So just try a bit more 😉 the picked colours are nice!
If I just dunk a mini into a paint bucket does that count as painting 
I’m bad at painting (and not fun for me) and it’s keeping me from starting tabletop
Yeah, as this is my first painted mini it was a little weird, but a lot of fun. Definitely need to get a little used to painting before I hit my Kinband with the colours.
Have you tried slapchop before? Once you get decent at it you can finish a mini in like 10 minutes and it looks fine
You will do this ^^ just collect 1-5 more Minis of the month at your local warhammer store... you will get used to it. Or spend a little money on a seperate squad that you can train on ^^
I don’t know what slapchop is
You prime your mini black dry brush it with grey then a light drybrush with white and slap on some speedpaints or citadel contrast paints
I do have a pathfinders kill team, which are a lot less intricate that I can and probably will paint first.
And if this is too much work you can also just prime them white then fill it in with contrast paints as they’re very fast and easy to use but that will look kind of very wack
When i did that it looked wack atleast
Sounds good, if you are unsure GW and many other mini painters have some nice painiting tutorials on YT etc. so just look for them or ask here, help will be mostly there if needed ^^
Nice man, really captures the trench feel
ty!
And tomorrow to finish off the bases
Any suggestions on how to improve these guys?
I want them to stay very clean and high contrast with black bases
But as they are they do feel kind of unfinished
have you used any shades yet?
anyway for black armor if u dont wanna edge highlight my ultimate tip is to do a drybrush of grey on the whole thing
Not yet, was thinking about it. I just dont wanna risk making them look dirty
But I probably will at this point
Alright, will do
Gonna have to mix up some wash first
Since I don't actually own any 🤪
good luck
anyone have a good picture of the scab captain boss?
Yes that should work thank you
Why is there a weird robot in my message
I didn't type that
Gonna have to put off finishing this thing until tomorrow…
Utterly stunning job
Correct!
Ya did good
Haul from purchasing guard bits from my friend for 25 bucks
I used it to make a mortar crew for my GSC
By the way, the 3 neophytes I’m using for them were bisected due to not having enough bits for them (there’s enough to make 3 half-neophytes after you make the OG ten from the neophyte squad box)
The reason the middle one has legs is because I found some squatting guardsman legs in there and kitbashed them on
The fortification on the left is made out of pure sprue that I’m going to paint to look like stacked bricks
poor guy, they took his ass
looks like you lost track of your work
Nice! See you went with the gold halo and fleur as well
Aye, don’t want to get the nicely primed and painted tracks all green and khaki’d
Also corax black is a decent highlight for abbadon black isn’t it?
Eshin grey also works
Although for tank tread details dry brushing a silver over them works well
Eh for tracks I plan on using silver yeah
Also just going to ask, what size drill bit do I need for heavy Bolter barrels
While lots of minis highlight plasma coils with lighter colours on the fins, wouldn't the opposite be more appropriate, seeing as the fins would be the coldest part?
Anyone know if there is an Orc Nob mini thats got alot of bared flesh?
Off the top of my head not sure, you could maybe try using the muzzle break as a reference?
Trawling ebay for a doner mini for one of my Aberants >.>
Think it was 2 mm for the muzzle break and ended up with this
I'd say 0.5mm for the pilot hole, then 1mm or 1.5mm for the full hole. If you get a hand drill you often get those sizes in the package.
Looks fine honestly
Just cleanup the edges and job done I say
Okay. Caught a lot of flak for it so I was trying to understand why
Cause “Delete this” doesn’t really tell me anything
A little bit of lard or some other lubricant can help with the drilling too.
Mostly for making the cuts cleaner.
Vaseline works too
Just coat the drill bit with a little.
Hmm I’ll remember that for the next one I do. I guess use a hobby knife to clear out the excess?
I struggle to see what’s wrong
Just people shouting at other people for trying to do stuff with their plastic toys I suppose
Glad to see that part of the hobby hasn’t changed
You drilled your barrels, and they look good, ‘nuf said
Slighty off center and not a clean hole. But that can be fixed by using a dremel (or similar) tool or drill to first drill a pilot hole, then the true hole. Then you have less chance to offset the hole through the mechanical action of your hand (imo, your milage may vary).
My latest barrels don't look much better, I also need to switch to power tools.
Also a center punch (the kind that you press in) can help in putting an indent in place.
Alternatively the tip of a crafting knife works for that too
Although it’s a bit less accurate and can be off centred still
Not too much of an issue if you’re doing bullet impacts
Yeah, I just like the punch because its quick and easy.
Oh yeah, there’s no right way to build and paint minis really
With fringer drills you have slightly better feel on the plastic if you're drilling really neatly so that you can tell if it's about to give out and you can do smaller adjustments more easily
See this is the criticism and suggestions I can get behind. Thanks all
Just curious where was you getting the responses from originally?
Pin drills/finger drills are pretty good though, I don't particularly like the smaller electric drills because they usually don't have good speed control.
So I either use a finger drill or my Dewalt because I can partially press the trigger and it'll rotate super slowly.
Yeah, hand tools just feel that little bit more controllable in that regard, but whatever works for you
No one here. ‘Nother discord that’s unrelated to 40k but has usually given decent feedback, until the barrel post dropped
I mean, I know people who don't drill barrels because they don't have the tools/are afraid of power tools. its fine.
Damn, hate when that happens, can be really demotivating. Drilling barrels is something I don’t think I’ll ever do, but I’m happy with that
Meh, par for the course. Again thanks for the feedback everyone

No worries
Vroom
Dieselpunk cyborg
A WIP. But I am considering stripping this one and starting over as I don't like my directions of how I've gone about it. So far I'm only proud of the helmet.
Man transfers make such a difference
Looks interesting, depends on how weapons will be of course. I hope the whole "we gave everyone too much ap-1, so spess mahrines don't feel special, let's do armour of contempt" doesn't repeat.
there will be 'anti-' keywords which will improve effectiveness against certain unit types like vehicles
so the anti vehicle weapons will really be the ones needed for vehicles whilst keeping vehicles as a good defensive choice against other weapons
Hm. Wonder how this’ll affect guard. Tanks have always been good
Yeah, I just hope it doesn't turn into "oops, we gave everyone too much anti-_______"
Thanks I started with Balthasar gold then dry brushed retributor armor over it then wash with agrax earthshade simple yet effective worn gold look
I need some help figuring out a chaos battle sister army color scheme
My thanks 😊
I’m more worried about our infantry than the tanks tbh
Are those the Artel W ones?
I’m torn on doing a Felinid addition to my lists
finally painted them during the pandemic
hella expensive from what i remember
I see you opted for the full on cat heads as opposed to the semi-human faces
waited for sale to pick up the captain from treasure planet
here is a "dimachareon" proxy
Its like 50 for 5 from Artel
just an upscaled homagaunt
I hVe that file
looking good for the new nids coming out
I like the stripe
well technically this one use 2 files
The hands right?
yis
I thought you may have just kitbashed the arm digitally
did you saw my kitbash of Tyranid-Rex?
lemme look with discord search
it's there
nah, I used the arms from a dima model
thanks
Shadowsword I printed off a while back, just redid the main cannon’s paintjob because it had chipped pretty badly.
I love it
3D printed actually
He’s hollowed, he goes in the bottom rack of my A case
He is still a chonky boi tho
id imagine, heres hope he gets some heavy use in 10th
He’s been appearing in pretty much all of my lists as of late
the shadowsword absolutely slaps
instantly deleted an enemy heavy a turn
a volcano cannon would do that. do your damnest to fit it in under 1000pt games
hecking big flex
Under 1000 if I run one, I run the budget plasma varient.
Typically theres not enough ideal targets sub 1k to make it worth running in comparison to infantry spam with leman russ suplimentary fire
Lol.... Hetzer gonna hetz
Thats not the doom turtle
as i said: Hetzer gonna hetz... cuz it's a Hetzer tank.. or also called Jg. Pz. 38 (in german)
Now thats the doom turtle
Most recent progress on the final two breacher type marines
How tf do people paint chaos marine trims
Trick is paint the trims first
That does look like a proud militarum tank alright.
Honestly looks fine, you can always shade the lapels and braids darker.
Depends what kind of officers uniform your taking inspiration from though.
Thank you but its also to do with how unenthusiastic I was doing it to start with. I wanna come back to it with a fresh mind and focus
I'm going for a mix of Prussian/German and French. The helmet inn particular I based off a prussian officers piklehaube with its golden brims front & rear
The scheme kind of reminded me of Brigadier General Loup's Dragoons uniform from the BBC Sharpe Series.
Ooo that is a nice scheme
With the grey and pants and gold trim.
God I need to rewatch Sharpe
'Tis good.
It does bare a striking resemblelance but the base uniform I was going for WW1 era Prussian grey
Prussian colors are good.
With some of the uniforms having red trim I thought it'd be neat for an officer
Although the Prussian blue is sublime
But I already have similar models in that scheme so i wanted to stay away from it a little
If the gold braid feels too yellow, could always desaturate it like the above image if your worried about it standing out too much.
use like, bone/skin tones as highlights.
Thank you I'll take that on board :3
Nice.
Still on the fence if I want to do the power weapons and plasma as chaos red when I do my Moebians.
Already planning to make the Flame trooper's use Green/Tox flame so it matches the glow from the goggles.
ooh, very nice
What about purple?
I'm just doing my flamer as a regular scab flamer because wan 'em crispy?!?!??!?!?! is too much of a meme with my friends and i
"ohh its gonna get hot!"
But yeah, I've considered Green, Purple, Loyalist Blue and Red/Orange, still not sure.
Why not let chance pick it for you? That way you don't have to ponder on which to pick
I've got time to think, Paiting up my Genestealers first, when they arrive.
(Because I'm poor and they won't need as many paints)
I've got a scheme for the genestealers I practiced on a Battle for Mcragge Termigaunt and its 90% drybrushing and only uses like 5 colors.
Where for the Moebans I need....
Burnt Umber
Greens in a few shades for Eyes and stuff like Pox Hounds/Plague Ogryn
Rust
A few dark metal greys.
A few shades of my chosen plasma color
Copper
Verdigris
Colors for Fatigues.
Yellow for Hazard Stripes
Browns for Leathers etc.
I don't really want to buy one of the army painter sets and have colors I don't use.
So I'd rather find paint schemes I like online and pick up those colors for now, and maybe try to find higher quality versions of those specific paints.
Got two space marine kits. What chapter do I go for? I’m on the fence between going for Ultramarines or making an alternate reality loyal World Eaters.
never go smurf, nobody likes smurfs
unless you like them
Ave Dominus Nox.
In midnight clad brother
I wish these horns were bat wings.
I either gotta get 3d print stuff or wait for gw to restock the forge world heads
First model I've painted in a long while. Wanna add some weathering and finish the base.
I like the purple armor
is that a specific order of the space nuns or you just wanted to paint it purple?
Thanks!
Custom.
Still pondering what to field them as.
Leaning into Valorous Heart or Ardent Shroud.
Fluff them up as a Order originating from one of the grand ones. Just don't like doing transfers until I'm 100% happy :3
I love custom paintjobs
I have a whole army of IG with red and gunmetal as main colors
Only the comissar gets a White cloak
Whatever floats your boat. If I were to collect space marines, I'd go with dark angels (I like the colours and plasma) or blood ravens (cool lore and colours).
Had a productive morning!
First Incubus done
i'm building some crisis suits
and all the videos say you can put three weapons on it
and i get i can get the missiles for the shoulder mount but could i also mount a plasma gun on a shoulder or would that not count on the tabletop
Tabletop is getting new rules in 2 months, for current rules you can check them out online (wahpedia or something like that).
oh alright guess i'll just plop those other shoulder thingies on to be safe
Out of those two options I'd roll with AU World Eaters, but that's just because I find Ultramarines really basic
Which is why my personal favorite chapters are the White Scars, the Carcharodons, and the Salamanders
yea i'd do the same tbh everyone and their cat has an ultra marine army
bit basic and boring imo
I play T'au. You can put 3 weapons plus 1 wargear on them, unless you use them as a crisis commander, in which case they can have 4 weapons. For placement, it really doesn't matter where you put them on the model. A lot of people build the 4 slots as 2 weapons on arms, then 3rd weapon and wargear on the shoulders. Most people put a missile pod on the shoulder if they're using one, but you could absolutely put one on an arm if you think it looks cooler that way. Hell, I've played around putting a shield generator horizontally on the shoulder flight pod and even that looks cool. For the best customisability, I'd recommend putting 4 magnets on your crisis suits so you can swap loadouts easy and use one of them as a Crisis Commander if you choose at some point.
Here's a better look at where I put the magnets
And an example of a perfectly legal loadout for a crisis suit, even though it's not placed how most people do it
This is the important part from the codex. Think of it as the suit has 4 slots. 3 slots can be anything from the first dot point. 1 slot can be anything from the 2nd dot point.
Of course the rules might change for 10th edition, but that's even more of a reason to put magnets on, so that you're ready for whatever GW throws at us next edition.
I suspect kill team won’t get an immediate update. But yeah, if building for 40k I’d hold off.
this is quite cursed
thanks for the info tho really helped me out
For the Greater Good
Tartaros squad finished
thin yer paints
Got a breacher squad done (except bases) happy with how they came out as I tried a different style
Lookin' good
Thanks
And so. My great work begins on the Leviathan.
Good luck! Show us the results 😉
Okay for me ^^... as you can see above i'm currently working on a predator tank... i'm making progress but i'm still not done... many details and some weathering etc. are missing... 😄
I love the base so far, you did a fantastic job on it. Especially on that marine. My predator lacks most of the details. I got lazy near it's end.
looks very good even if you went "lazy" there was done much work 😎
For my tank is also planned the usage of sand, additional non GW and GW bits to make the tank more "alive" and when i finally will finish it, the predator should look as he is in battle or in movement through a battlezone... sooo muuuch work to do 😄 🤣
My "Umbral Knights" are based on a snowy desolate world, so I've gotten myself limited to grey and white bases. I thought about adding mud and stuff to them, but the black coated it a lot and contrast was an issue. I'm planning to try something new with the Levi Dread, but we'll have to see.
I stay tuned for it.. and yeah the black often takes much of mud effects etc. but it's still worth a try for me
This is what i added the evening...
I did it to myself. I am a sucker for snowy settings, and my chapter is basically just pre heresy DA.

Healy boy onna bike
My dad always said "we rise with our challenges" and this is what i try on any mini 😉
Your color choices are lovely. Do you use citadel paint for the white?
Citadel air white scar/ and rattlecan white scar
And thanks
Ah, thank you. I personally cannot use the whites they produce, they feel horrible. Gonna need valeho for my dread.
Vallejo is a good product line.. my father used those paints for his 1/35 WWII models.
Their white paints spread much more nicely and look less chalky than citadel
Dope asf biker. I rarely see them with bases, good shit on the texture paint.
Yup... I got the citadel paints back in the day with my Black Templars Combat patrol and yeah i will use it until it's empty before changing xD
The only use left I have for my citadel whites was a base for the Ushabti bone colors on my Knight.

Wah this knight looks sick! 😻
I read up on knight lore and there was two instances of freeblades pledging themselves to chapters. This one did the same, and exchanged his chains word for a giga power sword.
😄
Thats sand and craft glue with drybrushing. No texture paint.
Special sand tho. Like super super fine stuff that model trail builders use for their dioramas
Hobby store guy told me to look to train model fans for inspiration in all things
@lean snow same stuff i use for my minis and tanks 😄
gore crows warhound I have been working on
you bought a warhound?
Started my next sister squad here is the superior
aye bud to go with my mechanicum army
sick
wow
Anyone want some crab
gib
It’s been a while frfr
ima turn it into a sororitas machine
What about some sneaky droids
Only if the omnissiah wills it
Tank has been completed
Yea
I’m too sleep deprived to paint the servitor cuz that was suppose to be painted before putting the rest on it
WIP Deathwatch Rainbow Warrior 🌈
what is rainbow warrior
@wary trench The Rainbow Warriors were one of the first original space marine chapters in Warhammer 40k during the Rouge Trader era
hahaha very colorful
i feel like the theorhetical crimson fists primarch that would have replaced dorn would kick ass
Dorn goes hard
me want
Started on my first minis.
Any advice before I apply a shade?
Got some warriors and ordered the Slaves to darkness army set. It’s all coming together
Now all I need is archeon
they finally have the nice new posed chaos warrior stand alone?
I mean these models look well posed so ya I would say so
he is done
Base coat seems alright, can't tell if the paint's too thick, but it doesn't seem to be. No obvious moldlines. Try not to apply too much wash at a time, to prevent pooling.
Now, make his museum.
Autoguns are neat
i am going to start collecting skaven because i must
Darktide took away my message AND my appreciation for this legion. cant have shit on discord
The army grows
First warrior built
If I were ever to get into AoS this would be my army
I highly recommend getting into it. AOS rules so far have been a lot easier to learn then 40K.
Can’t justify it yet
fair enough
Don't go to hard with it, I know it can be tempting to drench them but go light at first
@rare hornet started with sandworks and details today...



