#40k-minis-and-armies
1 messages · Page 28 of 1
iron warriors and iron hands dont count in that
no one likes them as factions anyways
TBH i think i am just beyond repair due to liking the look of ultramarines and black legion while every single xenos filth just looks lame
I wish people didn't like Iron Warriors
opponent: why is there a squad of alpha legions in your army?
me: I dont know, they just kind of showed up
alright kill him
tyranids are probably the least interesting army in the lore, but their models are great
combine the two into one
ah yes, fallen Ultramarines successors
Actually planning on slapping some black legion / chaos undivided transfers on my kill team imperial breachers 😄
Just gonna roll them with my ultramarine army until someone pays some attention to them 😄
instant Blooded team
Should really finish building/painting my kroot kill team
but man... fuck kroot
fucking twig looking motherfuckers
i have to finish too many commissions before I can work on my things
I just finished magnetising the big guns on my Ghostkeel, now gotta do the little guns. Can see the finish line in sight for the Combat Patrol box
Show us the goods
Time for paintings
I have before several times
Current progress on Bayards revenge..
he doesnt even have arms or a head, you monster
nugget faction space marine
That is a torso, with legs
I have never before seen such a breathtaking form of art
The social commentary, If we can't use our heads, should we have hands?
We are nothing more than torsos with legs in the eyes the bourgeoisie and elites as we are their labor force, and we need to breed more of the labor force for them.
Pretty sure a labour force benefits from arms though
Not if those same hands wield the tools of oppression
Container
Bawks
im just experimenting things for my first and see how it turns out. My next miniatures I will definitely spend more time with the delicate details and not rush things.
I think its better if i paint arms, legs and head seperately because once i glue them toghether, its really hard to get the brush into certains parts.
anyone know where this blade is from?
is it generally frowned upon to use a proxy army? to be more specific, offbrand but still clearly based on the same units with the same base sizes (for non tournament games)
Depends who you're playing against, and where
a local non gw store, that runs 40k games sometimes
in a small town in the middle of nowhere
Your best bet would be to ask the store then
i intend to buy paints and brushes and books / datasheets from the store itself as well
the only thing not offical would be the models themselves
i just can't afford to play 40k currently if i go that route
and not for a long time, either
Yo what's a good fantasy beginner army
As long as it isn’t an official gw store no body should mind!
Nobody should care even in the GW store either, lol. Yet no matter where, you will always find that one dude...
Spes mehrines
Looks great! Though, something important is missing
the green bases
once they're done that'll be the next step
I figured out how to recreate goblin green too
flash gitz yellow with
warboss green iirc
Might want to get a second thin coat on that rocket launcher too
warboss green is already close enough but with flash gitz it saturates it
i'll probably give it 2 more thin coats
then i gotta clean up my highlights
work on the steel, finish the blue armor on the backpacks and hands...
I got my first set of ultramarine today and uhhhh this instruction manual has confused me
Here is my old back in day Gray Knight convert.
Like do I build all these torsos at once? Also I feel like if I add that loin cloth it'll be hard to paint the legs, can I paint it separate and add it later?
Ohh basically
You can make one sergeant with that specific chest piece and one of the legs
and with that you can choose to have a loincloth or not
wait im an idiot and didnt read your question 
you should build them all at once yea, tho iirc that kit has 11 front chest pieces so choose the ones you like best
and the loincloth shouldn't make painting too hard, especially if you don't glue the mini on the base right away
i love it 
Thanks ❣️
Okay, so I should just glue at least all the torsos and legs together and then add the other parts around it?
Some people like to do partial assembly, some dont
Imo wait before gluing the torsos and legs together so you can play around with the pose a lil
I would say assemble two models, one partial (leave the arms, backpack and maybe head unglued until they are painted) and one fully assembled
Then paint them and see which you found the best
ohh good idea actually
At the end of the day losing a single infantry model cause you assembled him wrong or didn't like how he turned out isn't the end of the world
I see, I'll try my best! I usually build gunpla so I'm just used to snap building
It all just comes down to what's most comfortable
So when it comes to painting I want to make sure it's the same as gunpla
So I would paint the base coat,then line all the recessed areas and panels with a wash,then add other colors like gold on the chest and shoulders, then dry brush, then seal?
My hands aren't that steady so I can't do the edge highlighting with a brush
There is no proper way to paint. There is a lot of approaches and styles. Choose what you like and what you're comfortable with.
Minor disaster averted! Was magnetising small guns for my Ghostkeel shoulder mounts and I stupidly put the wrong polarity in one. Managed to get it out by drilling a couple 1mm holes out either side of the magnet, and with a combination of some very light brushing with acetone, managed to wring it out with my pliers.
Never doing that again!
Same set. That banner is a bitch to paint
Damage is very minor too, could have been much worse
The white isn’t the right pigment to base with so you have to do black base and build layers with white
My hands shake like I've got parkinsons, but can manage to brush highlight. I just learnt how to brace my hand against the table to stop the shaking. You could try something similar
And this is usually on a High grade gundam that I have trouble highlighting. Can't imagine what I'll do here
Could dry brush highlight?
Yeah that's what I usually do
Okay I clipped out my first marines parts but I haven't assembled them yet, I'm gonna go get some bluetack tomorrow so I can kinda see how he looks put together and also so I can paint all the parts separately
You don't need to paint all of them separatly. It's actualy quite a silly idea. Just dry fit them together and see what ares block other areas. Cloaks, hands that go over the torso, backpack you might want to leave separate. The stuff that does not block other areas is fine to glue. Faces are also easier to paint while not glued to the mini.
love the classic look
From what I see the bolter on the Sergent mini blocks the chest and the banner doesn't have a lot of surface area to hold on to so I'm gonna paint the arms, weapon, head and banner separate
Wait should I prime these beforehand? How do I prime warhammer figures piecemeal like this? Stick some bluetack on the connection points and stick a toothpick in them?
I generaly drill a 1mm hole with a pinvice in the connection joint and lightly super glue a paper clip in. Holds the mini just fine, gives me something to hold on to, the hole is small enough it won't be noticable after assembling and it easy to poke into some styrofoam for drying after priming.
Then you just twist the paper clip out.
Today in Totally Necessary Purchases
Just got the XV25 Stealth Team and Strike Team left then the Combat Patrol box is fully assembled
Anyone recommend any base texture or cool stuff to go on the bases
gott some for you though xD
That is like...an entirely different world. xD PVA glue + sand, sticks, rocks, torn up cork coasters/tiles, cracle paste, epoxy resin, grass tufts, flora miniatures...there is so much, lol
You can also buy some rollers, that allow you to make textured bases from greenstuff/miliput...the options are endless
vallejo diorama texture pastes are cheap and relatively easy to use, combined with some tuftts from greensttuff for example
currently working with cork, also interesting.
there is no limits tho to what one can do with bases
AK texture is the best
the guardsmen bases i just posted are cork
For my Imothek, I had a guy CNC a Sauthek dynasty symbol out of steel for him to stand on.
The options are endless and imagionation is the limit.
These are some of my better hand-made bases
Where did you get the grass and trees??
The grass can be bought, just look for diorama grass tufts, same with most of the other foliage. The palm tree was a part of a rubber dinosaurs toy set which I bought from a second hand store. The cattails are 3D printed.
Thank you
@rare hornet just about to finish Storm of Iron.
Forrix is way too competent ti not be a warsmith
He did serve along side Perturabo during the siege of Terra
Actually out of the main characters Honsou is the only one who's not from the Horus Heresy
Yeah. I still wonder why forrix doesn't have a warband of his own
The book gives an answer to that
I'm fond of sand
Was trying to decide how to decorate the Ghostkeel base and had a cool idea to use the alternate head as decor. I'm going to build up sand around it, then paint it really rusty. A fallen brother from a previous battle. So yeah, you can even use leftover bits from your current assembly as decor
Is this beach sand ? What glue did you use?
It's a box of sand citadel sells, but in retrospect it's a bit of a rip off. I'd say it's coarser than beach sand, and you probably want your base sand to be relatively coarse because it textures better and will give more detail once you paint over it
It's likely some sort of desert sand I'd say
Used plain old loctite super glue
It dries a bit thin with coverage, but you can just pour more over the sand, coat again, and build up layers of texture
PVA works well too if you're more patient
I have way better experience with PVA than superglue. Just put a layer of PVA on the base, sprinkle on some sand, tap off the excess, the mix some more PVA glue with water in roughly 1:1 ratio and either mist or lightly brush it over the top. It will glue all of the loose grains. It's also way cheaper than super glue, it just takes a while to cure fully.
Just ordered 2 killteam chaos legionaries boxes. I need my 2h chain axes, reaper chaincannons and balefire tomes
I know but he could have done so much more. Seeing his ambitiones stoked was definitely a highlight
I mean, the guy did beat a warhound to death with a powerfist
i took my time
Is there a difference between chaos legionaires and chaos space marines?
I generally don't bother with the sealing coat since I prime it and the paint layer seals it anyway, but definitely a good idea if you just want a natural sand base unpainted
Both are called legionaries but kill team ones seem to have equipment 40k legionaries don't. Said equipment is also usable I 40k
Planning on buying the chaos space marine combat patrol but also want a kill team and the new incoming cqc game mode armies done for black legion so wondering if i also have to buy box of leginaires in addition to the 10 marines from the patrol box
Well the legionaires title is because of the space marine legions were a thing, then they got rid of this when they broke down into chapters, it's just a name really means nothing different
an isolation coat isnt as fragile as acrylics, the paint itself wont seal much hence why specialty products like isolation coat barriers exist
You can also find PVAc glue that doesnt have a thickening agent in it, but those are generally at specialty stores.
Cqc?
close quarters combat, the new arks of omen books will bring a new game mode focused on ship boarding assaults and the like

it'll be quite similar to Horus Heresy's Zone Mortalis games
honestly melee armies can be quite damn powerful already so the new game mode is quite scary
basically kill team with multiple units.
melee tau
I meant armies that focus on melee 
melee tau is a thing
its called a kroot army
think conga line but more meme worthy
sure you can have some kroot and a melee focused commander but there really isn't other rules or stratagems to support that kinda play
Technically there isnt for necrons either, but it works shockingly well weirdly enough
but cant go pure melee
hence why you just bring one squad of immortals
Necrons are in a weird place, most of their units and rules are sub par but their secondaries are great so they gain points well in games easily but they get stomped once they do what they want to do
necrons will always be in a weird place though
this isnt the days of living metal only being able to be damaged by s10+ weapons and there being a very small amount of those
yyeah
hopefully they'll find their place soon, I really want to build an army of them and wouldn't mind having fun playing with them as well
necrons were best in an era with directional armor and glancing blows
they lost their unique flair
Is that why flayers resorted to wearing other factions for their unique flair?
Flayers were made so the poor painters could dunk their necrons in a bucket of red paint and call it a day 
Also i think I have developed an addiction to reaper chaincannons
I just can't have enough of those brrrt machines
It's not like they are super good. Their range is fairly limited. But they just make me happy
its like the gau-8
Gau-8?
they a-10 isnt a good plane and it was obsolete when they released it, but the gau-8 makes me happy
Is that some sort of necron weaponry that I am too chaos to understand?
it was a plane designed for fighting during a nuclear war.... problem with that, it cant survive nuclear radiation or fallout
Ah
No this thing
Well if it makes you happy then it's fine
Brrrt
its the real definition of brrt
3900 rpm of 30mm depleted uranium rounds, sounds sexy on paper
BRRRRRRRT
in practice its so meh that Ukraine said that they were useless for their war and they'd rather have props as a trainer
Photos overexpose everything. Looks decent. Realy surprised how clean those are for your first minis.
thank you, I'm trying to learn and improving my miniatures everytime
i took the advice and spend my time painting details
You are a rare breed then. Most people want to have their minis done in as little time as possible, often at a cost of quality. If you keep at it, you'll soon learn, that you can do whatever you are doing quicker and cut the time spent on a single miniature that way.
its really hard to paint the back of backpack so i paint them parts by parts
tomorrow i will work on both arms and leg, and then add the oil to see how well it goes, then some highlighting
Are you going for volumetric or edge highlights?
im suppose so
might have to look up how people do it so i dont mess up
i already threw away so many miniatures because of many screw up
body update
oh just realize the chest gold has some spilled line imma just fix it real quick. Photos are actually great for picking up mistakes
Generaly you'll see two main ways to highlight things. Edge highlights are often used for tabletop, because they are quicker, relatively easier and make the mini more readable. It is also what you'll see in all GW guides, since that is they style they use. With volumetric highlights you are building a gradiant from dark to light, which tends be to more realistic, but for mini purposes it is often exagerrated to increase readability. It can also take a lot of time and you need to thin your paints properly. And of course you can kinda combine those two.
Don't toss away you minis. You can just paint over mistakes or if it's really bad, just strip it with a paint stripper and start over. There is a lot of products that are safe even for plastic minis.
i see, my future goal is to paint dark angels, they are great for volumetric shading. Probably should invest myself an airbrush to make painting easier overtime. Im still new into these miniature paintings.
Airbrush can speed volumetric shading considerably, but it is not required. You can achieve the same result with just a brush, it just takes time and some practice. But if you are building an army, it might be quite daunting to do it for every piece.
Looks great! Making me excited for painting my first 40k models this weekend!
Sure, I'll gladly paint along some free painting advice.
Unless you do it in like a middle of the night. 😅
depends on what timezone youre in
+1
Gmt?
ye
i think gmt is +0
well yeah, I am GMT +1
yeah youre 6 hours ahead of me
East coast eh?
yes
So it is likely gonna be in the middle of the night, unless you do it before lunch 😅
I buy WH minis to display, so most of my guys won't be used on tabletop.
I use this channel as a chat because it's less populated by dickheads, I've just seriously considered pulling the handbrake at 70mph because my dad honestly believes the machine head cover of hallowed be thy name is better than the iron maiden original
I just wanted someone to know that so if I vanish I died in a car "Accident"
I wouldnt even get up before 10am most days, I barely even bother waking up before 2pm most days also
Guess I won't be taking your class then. 
it would typically be around 6-8pm your time
WAIT what class
I wanna be taught to be a dick about paint by corpse
Sounds like fun
Hell yeah
i swear I dont try to be a dick about it, I just comes out like that most of the time
I have a very german way of speaking
Corpse: "I don't try to be a dick."
Also Corpse: "Your paint sucks and you're going to fucking die!"
this is accurate
I mean I get it. I also get angry when people who know shit about my field of expertise try to convince me that I am wrong. 
I call them plebs lawyers.
Happens a lot to me, I'm a computer hardware engineer
Most of what I do boils down to "Stop abusing your hard drive"
Or "Yes you need to clean your fan"
You mean the 8 years of dust build up on my gpu is bad?
Nah its like a blanket
I thought the grinding noise was supposed to be good
Keeps it toasty
Its a security blanket
God, I had someone clean the inside of their pc with a vacuum once
This is stupidly common with mini painters. Drives me nuts
Literally hoovered off their CPU and was confused why their pc wouldn't boot
"oh but ninjon/vince said this" well here is 12 documents from 12 different paint manufacturers that all say they are wrong bud
I nearly brained them with a can of compressed air
I use an airbrush
Doesn't make you immune to compressed air you aubergine
Not worried about moisture as my mobo is covered in vaseline
Also, actually, probably not a bad way of cleaning a pc
Just make sure it's clean and relatively dry
I also only use DI water in my airbrush to clean it and in my paint
Make sure you don't paint the inside of your pc orange or something, that might cause issues
I just like...remove the side cover and blow into it every now and then to remove the worst dust cover. 😅
Please don't hurt me.
Tar, that's better than 80% of people
I use a gaming laptop I built
I basically disassemble the whole thing once or twice a year
But 3080 i7 64gb laptop
Confuses people
Best thing
@muted token is using a vacuum on the cabinet’s grates also considered tech-heresy? Asking for a friend

How does that thing not go up in flames. Had few laptops during uni. Never going back, no.
What do you think about this beast then
Last time I had a laptop was back when XP was still current, and that thing got so toasty all the time
I am convinced he has it wrapped in plastic and submerged in dry ice bath.
Sounds sexy. I was in tech for a long time, always wanted to build my own laptop
Because there are a bajillion fans
It's too blue
Yo I just looked at it properly what the fuck is that cd drive doing with it's life
AND WHERE IS YOUR FRONT PLATE
WHY ARE YOUR FANS TAPED ON
WHAT ARE THOSE USB DOINGS
I kinda love it
I don't know how that's not on fire but I love it
okay guys its 5am here, I started painting at 10pm. My back is broken.
I finished touching up some black parts around the knees
Time to go to sleep gn everyone ❤️.
MOVE THE CD'S AWAY FROM THE TOP FAN
The more I look at this photo the more kind of, Confused and interested in how this happened I am
@muted token I should show you my PC if you think that's bad.
I would imagine yours is liquid cooled by lead based paint
Based on what I know about you
It runs on steam produced by boiling tears of hobby painters.
No, I don't use a cooler.
I just covered it with a bunch of thermal paste
Sounds of the fans bothered me too much
My top cover is a bit of perforated steel held on by colour matched silver duct tape too 😏
Let me know when your house burns down
You know that actually applies to both of you
I use the heat to help boil oil
I'm pretty sure that's eventually going to provide heating for your whole street
No idea, I just like the splashy noise it makes, it's uncovered though
BY VIRTUE OF YOUR HOUSE BEING ON FIRE
It's not a big deal, it's only a 11900k
And don't worry, I also put thermal paste in the pins
Ok so I know you're fucking with me
I noticed it was thermal throttling a little bit
But I know someone who did that
And then brought their computer to me to get it fixed
Tooth paste is the same thing as thermal paste, right?
Basically
You should brush your teeth with thermal paste
Actually don't
I don't wanna be arrested for murder like that tide pods dude
It should be I've watch Linux tech tips and gamers nuxes before
I want to headbutt Linus
Just some of the shit that comes out of his mouth, he's usually pretty good but MY GOD
What about Steve?
I have to drive by his old studio for work on occasion fun fact
Aka his house
Hey, just a quick question. I was looking at creating a Guard Army in a pre-heretical Moebian Regiment design and colors because I think they have an interesting design that wouldn't be too hard to pull off with models available, the only problem I'm having is finding a good helmet/mask combo that is similar to what they have in game. I was just wondering if anyone had any possible recommendations or ideas for a suitable option?
Anyone have a list of all the current point values for necrons? I know they got a few nerfs and buffs so I’m unsure of the current values
3d print it
https://wahapedia.ru/wh40k9ed/factions/necrons/datasheets.html more specifically
Wahapedia: Necrons army rules, abilities, and wargear.
That question made me realise how bad Trazyn's model is
I pray for updated Trazyn in 10th
I so much want to paint him but the model doesn't do him justice
I can't even find a good Trazyn stl
when he is by far the most interesting necron character
Daddy Trazyn~
I love him so much, he just shows up places and goes "Mine" then leaves
And refuses to explain
Same for the gay necrons
I love them
They get taken down very quickly
Shouldve gotten a 3d printer a long ass time ago
Couldve saved myself so much money
Eh, the early ones were pretty low res and really pricey.
Its great . people just rip models from TWWH and boom, youve got STLs for almost the entire warhammer fantasy lone
Line*
I feel like that model is as good as anything GW ever put out
Guys, i've figured out why Ultramarines are pushed so hard by GW
It's honestly not that difficult to figure out.
They are clean and bland = no weird quirks for turn people off. They are the gateway drug for plastic crack.
I think its because Macragge Blue is a easy to use paint
and as such they have the highest sale rates and thus GW focuses on them as they only care for profit like any good company
Nah, if that was the case, they'd be pushing Blood angels
And salamanders
Whe using plastic sement like Tamiyas' for example is it necessary to use sanding sticks or can one simply use a hobby knife, file etc to clean up the excess?
hobby knife is fine
np
As with many other things in the hobby, the answer is "it depends". Knife might be too rough for round surfaces, like space marine pauldrons, because it can leave a facet. Not a big deal but something to considet. Same thing applies when scraping mold lines.
I use German cut 6-10 swiss pattern needle files for most things myself
But this is a luxury most don't have
Thank you I shall take on board the advice for future reference :3
I think my cheapest file was $25

I don't get why people call like a 200 grid high grit sandpaper either, because things like that are garbage for trying to get a perfect surface. You need a start at a 600 grit
Problem is that it can take longer, which is what people don't want
Would canis Rex be a good Freeblade knight to run with Black Templars?
Oh I avent seen these models i ages
Not really, knights as a whole are lords of war and cost a lot of points, the rex is also really lacking in terms of weapon options and you're paying extra over a princepts for a few minor perks
some people like bringing them, but knights are very clunky on the tabletop and suffer greatly from the point return
That's some classic paintjobs on classic models
are there different tabletop sozed minis?
The Mordian 21st
yes
what are the sizes for space marines etc
Well my Primaris stand at 4cm (not including base)
roughly
this looks huge?
Space Marines use 32mm bases afaik
Next steps on Bayards revenge...
First minis, how should I paint the green laurels on the waistcloth?
Maybe undercoat it with white then go over with thin layers of green?
I’d do the opposite, start with green, end with white. Remember, it’s easier to do big than small
True that
Alright I'll give that a shot. I'm running into some trouble just trying to assemble the damn things
I'm used to snap building gundams so gluing is...difficult to say the least
What does it mean when it says 2 a-d? I have no idea which arms to use
idk im painting the recruit edition space marine, as far as I know the seam lines and details on this certain guy isn't that good.
This has got to be the most confusing model manual I've ever read
That’s almost a line up to a dick joke
so iirc
on the page with the seargent assembly it shows 4 different arms configurations going from a-d
its basically saying use one of those 
Sergeants always get the special weapons for some reason
Ahh I see okay, the book also only shows how to assemble 5 space marines but the box says it males 10, do I just mix and match the last 5 sets of parts?
Yea you can mix and match body parts, legs, backpacks, helmets, etc. Dont mix up the arms or they will look wo ky and crooked
@mint dove
just finished a game of 40k. my word bearers vs necrons and i got the W
do people generally ignore these raised edges around the golden area? i find it painful to paint
in the main miniature artwork they seem to paint it as well
i like to paint it personally. for me it just makes it look nicer
liquid latex is your friend
is the consistency thin enough to not cover the raised edges?
yes, its used for water color masking a lot
nice ill have a look into it
you can also shade that area and pretend like its metallic
honestly yeah
idk if i oil wash those recessed will cover the edges that i just painted or not
it can
depends on how you clean them
just remember, you cant put a second layer on for at least 8 months after it finishes try to the touch
oils are fickle and like to crack if youre not careful
over oils or acrylics?
should be over oil coated
Tempted to buy a kratos tank
I have two whirlwind Scorpius', melee leviathans, and the entire age of darkness box do you think it'd fit
And another kratos that I got from Christmas
Should I just get some tartaros terminators
I like big tanks and I cannot lie
I'd have to check the material, but the chemical propellants would require at least a year before you actually spray it
if the material isnt the correct type, it wont bond
most think it does, but it starts flaking up over time and then removes all the paint, part of it is due to gas release from the oil
I love minis
does anyone here play tabletop
sounds scary, im using citadel paints rn. I also have a cidatel finish spray can just in case.
the thing about the spray can is that its so inconsistent. Wrong speay and the whole model gone
It's not a true primer you can strip it really easily.
Oil is just a different beast, It's no better or worse It's just different
im seriously considering priming with airbrush instead
I just.finished mine , such a fun model
Anyone know of a easy/simple way of getting a metallic dark blue effect? Preferrably via dry brushing?
Would just mixing like lederbelch + black + mcgragge blue work?
My space marines about to find a whole new type of warp horrors 
Thinking if it would be better to first drybrush dark blue and then go over it with metallic drybrush or just go all in 1 go with paint mixing
Never tried inks before
But kinda want a blue-ish metallic glow on most of that thing
Ah
Blue contrast/wash over metal basecoat shlould probably work. But it will make the metal a bit duller.
That is how I got this greenish gold. Metalic basecoat-green wash-more gold
Might actually try ultramarine armor contrast on some of the recesses
Could make the foundation i am looking for due to the black base spray
THICC contrast to the pockets and then just gently drybrush some silver/metal on top of it
Could possibly make it so that the blue shows a bit from under all the metallic shiny at the edges
So my girlfriends brother told me what he does when doing subassembaly is assemble the model with poster tack, prime it then disassemble it and prop the other parts on skewers to paint them. Is that a good idea?
y
Poster Tack? you mean like blutack?
Yeah that.
These are my first foray into painting anything so I wanna make sure I get it right so I don't get too discouraged
If you have something simple like push fit space marines, you should be able to do them without gluing them together for the most part
So you can experiance what area’s you find hard to get to when assembled
Nah the tactical squad uses glue
Backpacks I could paint around, it's usually the front that gives me trouble, like with heavy weapons or when a mini holds a bolter with 2 hands, obscures the whole chest
Yea probably leave those off too until final assembly
But when its like this I feel like I can get around it
So I can just use the bluetack trick? Shouldn't cause too many issues?
It won’t cause any issues, you blue tack to the area’s you don’t paint
But I found the blutack here wasn’t sticky enough so I just make do with fingers
That was the plan, okay cool I feel better about being able to paint then well
But then I have little hands
And as long as it holds for at least an hour while the primer sets, I'm chill
Oh dude I wish, I have massive fucking gorilla hands
I'm out here painting with ogryn fists
My hands are smaller than a 5’ tall Japanese girls
I don’t have much sensation in my finger tips though
You remeber the original Xbox controllers?
I miss those, perfect size for my hands. Trying to use a switch controller gives me carpal tunnel lol
Do people actually use Power Levels? Everything I've seen is point values in all the major battle reports I watch, but looking at the Codexes it seems like GW is trying to push power level with the points table at the end as an afterthought for the "older" way to do stuff
Nope nobody uses
So just a case of GW trying to force things a bit looser/more casual and the whole player base just going "Nope."
Need to fix the eyes
Guy on far left I highlighted with dry brush and 1-1 McCrage blue and corax white - I think the blue is too light thoughts?
It's definitely not too bright. Highlights on highest usualy go very close to pure white. The gradiant is too sharp and not smooth, which makes it seem that way. Drybrushing is also not the best way to highlight smooth areas. It's meant to catch edges and highlight texture.
The 2 centres I did full once over with Agrax earth shade
How would you recommend highlighting them?
Tbh I didn’t think I did too bad for first set of minis
Basicaly it seems like you tried to highlight volumetricaly with a technique that is not compatible with it. It can be done, but you really need to be good at drybrushing.
I do my volumetric highlights with glazing. Other ways to do it would be wetblending, feathering or an airbrush.
It seems like your paint was not dry enough for drybrushing, which made it look like strokes, rather than the dusty finish it usualy leaves. You really need to wipe most of the paint for it ti work.
Wash is fine. I prefer vibrant colors, so I generaly go back with the base coat after washing to bring the color back and leave the wash obly where it settled.
Oh this is a good idea
Do you have any pics of your minis for reference?
Of what they could look like
I have purchased more also the “elite starter set” comes with a bunch of necrons more Ultras so I can learn the game
I have not used all over wash in quite a while now. 😅 I decided I want to control where my paint goes, rather than slopping it on and hoping for the best. So when I use my washes, I go for targeted recess shading instead.
Oh I see do you think it results in a better finish?
Not necessarily. Washes are quick and convenient, but you lack control. I don't play, I paint for display and I am trying to get better at it. So the random chance is not cutting it. Washes are perfectly fine for army painting purposes. But I definitely recommend bringing the base coat back. It bringsnmore definition, readability and vibrancy.
Perfect thank you very much
Do you think I should do more of the gold highlights?
Or a few more coats to bring out the definition
From my experience, metals benefit greatly from a bright silver edge highlights. If you do not want to bother with TMM.
But they are your minis. As long as you are happy, everyone else should as well. Don't let my display painter nagging make you feel like you have to do more than you want.
Nah I want to make them look good since I just started the other day haha and I’m sure everyone here is more experienced than me and Knowledge is power so I have to get some advice on how to improve etc
Why don’t you play table top?
Also show me your minis 😂
I am not really that interested in the game. Seems like a lot of headache, competitive toxicity and (no offense) and I've heard about some less than stellar personal hygiene. 😅
And there are already plenty of my minis in this channel.
Hahahah people not showering to play Warhammer
God I love Tyranids
Do you have any tips on painting for display and how to improve from where I’m at currently
Other than general skills like brush control etc., intentionality is important. Understand what colors and techniques you're using and why. Rather than blindly following guides, analyze why it's done that way. Look at pictures and try to understand what color is placed where and what is the reasob for it to be there. You'll often find that your eyes are not telling you the whole story and what looks black is actualy blue and that that bright red is actualy pure orange at the lightest points.
Other than that...just practice. Lots and lots of practice.
My favorite example of that is black leather. Google a picture of a black leather coat. Looks black, right. But look closer. Majority of it is actualy grey, surprisingly light grey. And the reflections are often pure white.
"@plush swift is typing..."

I dunno. Never had major issues with them. I stopped buying them, since vallejo was cheaper, but apparently those are not good either.😂
Personally I find them to be fine, I know there are cheaper options and also probably better options but as a newbie I find myself referencing videos a lot and they all mention of citadel colors which is easier for me
And I’ve never had trouble mixing paints or anything, I probably could’ve done without maybe 20 of the pots I bought by just mixing white or a similar tone to get the same color
This is exactly what intentionality practice is for. If you analyze carefully, you then know you need a dark red and bright orange rather than mephiston red and dragonfire bright. Opens a lot of options to you.
As a complete noob to painting it took my wet palette being too wet and running my white into my green to realize it could be brighter for highlights and such without another entire pot
Obviously it makes sense it had just never crossed my mind when I started
But yea I think overall, if I stopped looking at specific “paints used” on videos and tried to visually make it, I’d grow a lot faster
A lot of people tend to forget the color does not have to be exact. Close enough is good enough. Noone will beat you up over your blood angels being a shade of red lighter.
besides them beeing rather thick and the citadel paint pots beeing a menace to humanity i actually like them
after transfering them to dropper bottles and thinning them a good amount down during the process
they do the job for me
Lmao they are a pain to open sometimes. I might transfer to droppers, just didn’t want to deal with adding anything to make it easier to transfer
People were mentioning some sort of thinning stuff but I could probably just use water
vallejo airbrush thinner
Distilled water is fine. Non-distilled water...I probably would not use for longer storage.
get some 17 ml dropper bottles, some funnels and some mettal airsoft 6mm balls
and u good to go
took me a whole weekend and some mess but all my 50ish cittadel colors are in droppers
and dont know why i didnt do that a year ago already XD
Yeah, I droppered my citadels as well.
Funnily enough I have just started a WIP Blood Angel. I've just finished the base coating which admittedly took me too long but I will come back to it at some point
Is this a good enough primer?
I have Tamiya spray primer too but only in white and gray
My first ever minis painted, always loved the lore of 40k but Darktide refired the forges for me to take the plunge!
Pretty good job,
Thank you! Still got some things to clean up and learn from!
That's painting for ya lol,
SoB difficult to sttart with
Do you think beads are a necessity for switching over to droppers, or do they just make shaking easier?
just for the shaking
They are optional, but mandatory
Fair fair
Also is there a term for when you place paint on a mini and it seemingly vanishes
Like my paint won’t be too thin or anything but it’ll sort of wipe itself away
Like it doesn’t have attraction to the mini
I just stole this pic from google but sort of like that, except the paint isn’t as visibly thin
It mainly happens with my contrast paints so maybe it’s just trying to get into the recesses more than the smooth surfaces
That is what contrast paints are supposed to do, yeah. The surface tension pulls them away from flats and gathers it in a place where it can stick more easily.
Ah gotcha
I think for some things I like them, such as a leather handle on a weapon, just doing a quick contrast and it doing all the work for me but I feel like doing base and highlights would look better in the end on most things
I’ve been painting my guys in almost full contrast and not that happy with it
There are a tool you have in your arsenal. Nothing more than that. They have some uses and some things are better done in more traditional way.
I’m going to redo this guy but like the green is all blotchy and I feel with a base it’ll be more controlled and easier to keep it smooth
He was my second attempt so it’s not good by any means but I can only assume a base would be smoother
I’m still waiting on my death guard green which would be better color wise too, just got impatient and wanted to try some stuff out
Does gw or some other place sell seperate model parts? Got plenty of arms and torsos left from the assault marine box and all id need is more leg parts
You can probably get some spare bits from ebay. 3D printing community is also quite large.
Bitzbox
I know etsy has some people who sell bits for exactly this. They have torso's legs and all sorts of bits for kitbashing.
No, rustoleum is really awful. Krylon at least has an archival line, so you have better hope from them.
Hmm might have to set an order. Got parts for 5 more assault marines here
They can cause problems with a lot of pigments, and it's not a rusting issue it's a magnetic issue.
I have a link to an etsy page that makes bits for warhammer
A lot of pigments are magnetic, and I'm not talking about metallics
Glass also tends to shatter a lot and doesn't give you a good surface for mixing
I think once i collect courage to trust a new site ill make second assault marine group with double flamers
How about the vortex shakers? Are those any good?
noice
I'll have a vortex mixer video coming actually, but it's 2 years in the making. The short answer is they can work, but not as well as people think and there is a lot of misunderstanding about how they work. Like some people think that you can only use them on airbrush paint, because something like normal citadel is too thick and it won't mix
I don't think that there are good hobby investment because of how expensive they are currently
If they were 20 to $30 they would be fine, but with a lot of them approaching $100 now including the rip-off brand ones, It's just not worth buying
I've seen people use cheapo nail polish shakers instead of proper vortex mixers.
Cheapo nail polish shakers a lot of them are the same thing as of vortex mixer, Even those are getting really expensive
Some of them are really cheap though and okay
I see some for about ~25€. Seems reasonable enough if you are lazy to handshake.
And that's also kind of my problem with them, you can actually get a better mix by hand shaking a lot of the time
I know I picked one up because I heard somebody say that they revolutionized pain and how they completely change their mind on how paint works
I used it for about 6 months, and every time i was like "this changed nothing, this guy clearly wasn't even mixing his paints before"
I guess it might be worth it if you paint a lot and use a lot of paints.
Possibly. But a soft bodied acrylic is roughly the same thing and doesn't need to be mixed, so you have extra options for laziness
It's a lot of math involved with figuring out if they are right for you
I mean I don't painf often and when I do, I somewhat limit the number of paints I use, so I am fine doing it the old-fashioned way. But 20-30 bucks does not seem that steep if you paint a lot or have a disability that prevents you from shaking the bottles.
If you have a disability that's another story
But that's always the case with disabilities
Like I made a rig to shake paints up because I can throw out my back from shaking if I'm not wearing my brace
A rug? How does that work?
Autocorrect
Ah. Makes sense.
Gotta like getting your spine broken in 8 places by the Vatican.
Wait a minute, that sounds like a story I kinda want to hear more about.
I was there during college, One of the priests they are push me down a flight of stairs because I was to satanic and unholy
Yeah it was a whole thing, did get to meet the Pope though. He's actually a very nice guy, we don't agree on a lot of things but that's absolutely fine.
I am not sure 8 spinal fractures are worth meeting the pope. Were there any consequences for the priest?
Excommunication and assault chargea
Yay. Nids
All right, at least something.
I think you mean nids are the most physically attractive
*yes daddy space bug, hit me harder which your big throbbing whip"
youre welcome for that image
🥹
Hydra dominatus.
I just looked up the price for a Mortarion model and Holy Emperor on Terra, it's a lot of money that I don't have.
Welcome to the world of plastic crack.
The Nurgle Primarch version is $160, the non-Nurgle version is $115.
Not to mention paint is 8 fucking bucks.
Or what I think is paint.
If I wanted to get into minis wheres a good place to start? And where can I find games to play?
local hobby store if you have one
I might? If I do its a really small hole in the wall store
It's painful cause I just want Mortarion to have him as like, a shelf-piece, yknow?
$500 for 15 horses on forge world
Oh my god.
you dont need mini paints just go with student grade fluid acrylics, same thing but 1/4th the price. You can also look for soft bodied acrylics. also most people dont know what paint is
I wonder if the Mort models come pre painted?
On top of the 160?
I'm considered cheap and it would still start at 400 in labor costs
What the fuck.
its a lot of hours man
mortarian is around 20 hours to assemble and paint to a not shit standard
I guess that’s fair.
most people with less education and experience will also charge way more too
last mortarian I did sold for around 8k on auction
plastic is expensive to paint up after all
you dont pay for just the time, but all the years of education and experience one has had to do
you can also get mortarian for around $120 from hobby stores
If you want to do it yourself, I can share a ton of cost cutting measures with you
and I mean a lot, some tools though wont exactly be the cheapest thing, but they save you a lot of time and give you better results
Yeah horus heresy and 40k
Yep.
the horus heresy one is resin and if you're new, I wouldnt recommend it
HH is 115, I think.
GW resin is absolute dogwater
Yeah, HH is the $115 one, 40K is $160.
its so bad, that some primers can cause it to degrade
Anyone else see the citadel paints giveaway.
those are different to mortarion
no
GW is doing a giveaway to 5 people that sub to Warhammer+
Of literally every citadel paint and tool
Lol, imagine subbing to WH+
Im not subbing to WH+ ever
I also despise GW tools and dont really have a good opinion of their paints
They push that shit sooooo hard
Even if it came with their entire mini catalogue, I wouldn't.
They push WH+ because its what the investors wanted and its tanking hard
I know the Chosen are different from Mort, but it would be cool to have them along with Mort to put on my shelf.
Wonder how much money it’s lost them
Didn't they hire the guy who did Astartes?
yes
Yeah 
Probably not that much actualy. People forgot really quickly...
but then they locked astartes behind the paywall
I think its free to view now
WH+ shouldnt be a paid service, thats them trying hard to turn 40k into a monthly sub service
the stock hasnt recovered from it still
Literally trying to go the way of Disney+ and everything else.
Their literal best option was to turn these shorts into advertisement to drive more engagement
Exactly.
but the investors dont want that because it hurts short term gains, which is all investors want
Just make YT ads being like, "Hey, look at what our community has made."
And then show a clip.
I own a decent chuck of GW stock and been to the investor meetings before
its always a shit show of people who know zero about it
I brought this up in an investor meeting before and several investors told me that "they wouldnt see profits soon enough"
I assume that you don't have a strong push at your disposal for those meetings.
and I had to remind them that stocks are supposed to be a volatile investment
Wait, how many percent is "decent chunk"?
strong enough I get invited, not strong enough to have any say over the hedge fund manager who owns 5%
I own almost 0.1%
which is a lot considering the highest share holder owns 5%
I don't know enough about white collar happenings to understand how these things work.
I barely know myself, i invested in it after I had a virologist scream at me about super bugs at the end of 2019
turns out it was a solid investment
I got my return back quickly too
Nice, nice.
my boss fucking had a shit fit though since I sunk a ton of company funds into buying it
I mean, that's understandable.
his fault for saying "here do what you want with these funds, just dont make it entirely personal"
I still don't understand why they went so close-chested with their IP.
because of how IP laws work
Art IP laws are so widely misunderstood by lawyers too that GW keeps trying to say they own an art style, which they cant
if this was the case, then eavy metal wouldnt be categorized as a derivative or a pastiche
Iirc, didn't it go so far that if you had the Space Marine shoulder things, you could get slammed by GW?
yes, chapterhouse lawsuit
That's around the time I realized that GW is a bunch of man-babies.
GW claimed they owned greek letters and upsilon
And you know what, I will freely talk shit about GW cause what're they gonna do, not sell me their overpriced pieces of plastic?
they also DMCA'd a book from before 40k existed called space marine
multiple courts have told GW that Space marine was too generic of a term
Exactly.
It’s such a default term idk how anyone could assume they could copyright it
Cause aren't the Space Force technically Space Marines?
Which is why they name everything in "latin" now
They gonna sue the federal gov't for that?
I keep forgetting they exist

So does everyone else, don't worry.
But yeah. Technically if the space force had marines. I would bet my life savings they’d be called space marines
they would be
I want GW to sue the US government just so they can get fucked in court because of the amount of laws they break for consumer goods
Abso-fucking-lutely.
I want them to get absolutely slammed by the federal government.
Maybe then the GW manbabies will grow up.
Or get some creativity
I blame hasbrah
GW didn't win that, right?
not entirely, they only won a small part of it
That part being?
the fact chapterhouse was outright saying "these are for WH40k salamanders" and things like that
its stuff like that they won
Wait, so they did technically break IP rules?
IP infringement
Okay, but where?
But what were they claiming it was
Like in a game or like modifications for minis
Like, was it for models, was it in a game they made?
Finding that the plaintiff "could not base its copyright claim on a depiction of an "X" or a chevron alone, [but] its depiction of an original, creative shoulder pad with a distinctive color scheme is sufficient to satisfy the originality requirement"
Summary of this case from Design Ideas, Ltd. v. Meijer, Inc.
Granting summary judgment on an ITRPA trademark dilution claim where plaintiff failed to present any evidence that defendant “diluted [plaintiff's] marks through its use of them”
Summary of this case from Doctor's Data, Inc. v. Barrett
So, they made a model that looked like it had stuff from 40K models, is that what happened?
I’m guessing for minis
so the reason why you dont see many stls with colors on them is because of that case
Like how GW sells upgrade kits and such so you can put BA specific shoulder pads on basic marines
Oooooo
yes, its the combination of designs and color
On a 3D model?
Pauldrons, whatever they're called.
court case calls them shoulder pads because GW tried to claim they owned the word pauldron
HAHAHA
No they fucking don't.
no. Just no
No way in sam hell they own the word "Pauldron".
You can’t own the word pauldron
You can't own a WORD.
They also claimed they owned the greek alphabet
That’s a super common term
actually you can
I mean you can
You can't own the FUCKING GREEK ALPHABET.
Like lightsaber is copyrighted
lightsaber is but light saber is too generic
What the hell is wrong with GW.
because it can refer to a saber made of light or a saber made of light materials
One space bar makes a difference
its the investors
Exactly. But Lightsaber is a specific term used by SW
I'd understand it if GW created the word "Pauldron", but they didn't.
yep and disney doesnt really go after people often for it
so did the majority of the 40 universe
Humanity is a curse.
I guess that's why GW went and renamed most of their armies to specific, less generic terms, so they could establish IP easier.
this is exactly the reason
I wonder how much money GW paid their lawyers to come up with all this.
It’s weird for as greedy a company Disney is. They at least understand fans using your ip to make their own stuff more often than not leads to your IP’s growth
Most of the time they allow it
Or at least just make it happen.
Yup, Sisters of battle just was not copyrightable enough. Behold, Adepta sororitas
You know, maybe I won't give GW my money...
a lot more money than it saved them
just buy an stl and a printer, wouldnt cost that much more than a mortarian anyways
My guess is they’ve probably lost a good chunk of money from people never finding 40K BECAUSE there are no more fan animations and such
That's kinda fair, but I have 0 money.
Like, three bucks in my pocket and that's for lunch today.
sounds like you need to sue people for some money
I won't stoop to that low of a level for money.
I will but I work in fine art so i'm already below that level of petty
To be fair, as an artist your only other option would be commissions.
No commissions are a side hustle
I make paint and products for restoration and conservation
Oh.
I'm a failed chemist
Waltuh white
on occasion I do consulting for both though
the majority of the comments on my YT are calling me jesse
Pretty much any company will use it's influence to bully their competition. Often even when the law is not on their side with intention to bleed the other side out of money via lenghty court process.
thats why brusa doesnt want to continue TTS
he's on the right side of the law, but GW has gone after companies and small creators for similar things in the past
It really sucks that that's where we've ended up at.
It's not just GW, any company really. Buy whatever you want, but never fall under the impression the company won't slice your throat for a petty change. Because they have and they always will.
It's things like that that make me want to either try and make a company, or try and become the head of a company.
Cause a company by the consumers, in the consumers best interests should be successful, no?
But that leads into the problem of power corrupting, which leads into this situation here.
That is fine an all as long as you have a business located in your garage, possibly up to few locations within the country level. Once you go above that, you'll need money which will unfortunately come from the pockets of investors. And those investors are not giving them to you because they are interested in your company. They will always demand you to exploit someone and something to get extra money. After all, they gave money with intention to make it back and get even more.
Which sadly leads into a loop of exploiting and outrage.
I did join the boycott on GW and I am still holding on to it, but the longer it goes, the more I realize the only person I am hurting is actualy me. Because there are some models I want that I can't get anywhere else. And they do not need my money. Majority of the boycotters gave up on it the minute GW released a new shiny box.
Has GW even been enforcing their no fan animations policy?
Cause I’ve been seeing stuff pop up every now and then
I mean, I’d assume so.
I have branched out, I got a printer and I am getting cool minis that way, but I started my hobbying with the intention of having a named space marine character from every one of the original 18 legions. And the shelf I reserved for that looks very empty. So I have bought Tor Garadon recently. I'll probably only buy the models to finish that project, but the point I am trying to make...every company is shit, by not getting stuff you desperatly want, you are only hurting yourself.
They are actualy not enforcing it, at least not to a brutal level. The problem is they have not stated they won't enforce it. Meaning that if you do try to make a project, you never know if their lawyers won't be knocking on your door 5 minutes later with a C&D letter. Some of those fan projects take hundreds of hours a cost a bunch of money. Quite an investment to make on uncertainty.
And this where being too stubborn for your own good comes in.
Yeah. Like TTS. Which probably won’t come back until the rule is officially repealed
Bruva even stated himself that even if they change the policy, he likely won't be returning to TTS. At least not full time, since other IPs welcomed him with open arms and he does not want to close that door.
Speaking of Bruva, does he voice anyone in The Hunter?
I don't think he ever voiced anyone, has he? He was a writer, leaving VA to others.
Maybe, idk.
I only remember him as the fucking genestealer goblin from that one orkz episode of Warhams.
The IP I'm the art director of is wanting to actively pay him if he decides to do any fan animations consistently of the project once its released
cant discus what the IP is or anything about it yet though
the owner is a weird chemist who wants to save the planet, yet has zero idea how to run a successful company
But is it successful?
we havent released anything
Also, isn’t that what advisors for?
I'm the advisor for everything at this point
Jesse, we need to cook, Jesse.
I have never seen breaking bad
so those references confuse me all the time
Neither have I
its 99% of my comment section and I didnt know who jesse was until like a month ago
Basically, Jesse helps Waltuh cook meth.
I know that now
Waltuh
Ive never seen the show because I have to fight off meth addicts near my house and building a lot
We need to cook Waltuh
like last week I had one who broke into the basement to try and steal my bike then tried to stab me with a plastic fork
This is why we have concealed carry laws.
I have a concealed carry permit
I believe if they’re on your land and threaten you, you can blast ‘em.
Maybe it’s an Arkansas thing, I dunno.
Arkansas is also a constitutional carry state.
I really dont like arkansas for a lot of reasons
mainly their insistence on how they pronounce the states name
its Ar Kan sas
and we all know its true
Arkansaux
Where's all the pictures of minis?
We ran out. We just ranting now.
Fun
we got caught up complaining about GW prices after giving painting advice
Fair enough I'm in
It’s also illegal to mispronounce the name of the state of Arkansas.
Ark ansas
I will nuke arkansas like I will ohio if they dont watch their tongues
It’s also legal to switch your wife.
I dunno if I can use the B word here or not.
But it has to be on the courthouse steps at noon on a Sunday with at least fifty people watching.
I have a question about painting if anyone can answer it. I’m really new to the hobby and my ability to paint and knowledge on which to pick is pretty meh at times. Is there a safe way to remove paint on a miniature to repaint it without damaging the mini?
yes many ways
the chemicals all depend on your country though
I’m in the US
Depends on the material the mini is made out of. Pewter can handle quite a bit. Resin and plastic not so much. But you can find paint removers even for those.
LA's totally awesome. I use it to strip paint off everything
unless its resin
resin can be tricky
LA's works on resin but you have to be very careful
It’s a Warhammer, gamesworkshop mini so I’m pretty sure it’s plastic?
Idk I could be totally wrong
some GW things are resin
most are plastic
you'd know its resin if the sprue looks like it came from a nightmare fever
Yeah then it’s plastic
I’m considering using nail polish remover since it’s something I have on hand, but idk if it would fuck up the plastic. I’m sure there’s better options but I’m strapped for cash currently.
That will definitely fuck up your plastic. Learned that the hard way.
Thank you for your sacrifice my friend
not really, most cases its butyl acetate with maybe some cyclohexane
LA's totally awesome can be found at dollar tree
for around a dollar
or two
Good to know
IPA is what some people suggest but it doesnt work that well and can degrade the PS GW uses
Does it work with contrast paint? I’m realizing I hate how it looks since I’m more into the process of the painting and I don’t like it being done for me
yes, contrast paint is just ink in some glaze medium
and glaze medium is just a slow drying fluid acrylic medium
hence why they also call it an autoleveling medium in some countries
Hooray my little Blood Angel boys don’t have to look slightly off anymore!
if you need help with any of the paint chemistry stuff just ping me, its sort of my job
love this beer type
Thanks so much!
Stout is the king of beers, i will fight you over this
no problem
Painting up the bois
I use isopropyl alcohol to remove acrylic paint from my plastic minis when I need to, let them soak for 15-20 minutes then it comes right off with a toothbrush without any damage
That’s just standard rubbing alcohol, right? (Excuse my ignorance I just wanna be sure)
Correct
Why is so oily?
could you kindly provide to me that link?
Just be very careful with this because there is a lot of different acrylic polymers in miniature paints that will actually create very toxic gases with this, Also not all acrylic polymers are susceptible to this this includes miniature paint. It is actually suboptimal to use this, I'm a paint manufacturer and I'm telling you this. Also games workshop polystyrene is in fact damaged by isopropyl alcohol, It creates a molecular bond destabilization that will over time create plastic fatigue and cause more problems. Different temperatures will also affect this to not work at all, there's in fact certain things like Vallejo primers if you try to strip them off when the temperature is not correctly it will actually bond to the polystyrene and make it near impossible to actually be removed.
It's just like how Prussian blue, a pigment used in medicine to treat radiation poisoning and heavy metal poisoning, If you heat it up for too long, it'll create cyanide gas.


