#Superjolly Wiring
40 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
I am contactor-less.
But I can confirm that one of each of the wires are tied together (1 red, 1 white in one terminal, 1 yellow tied into other terminal on the same row).
Other red goes to cap.
Other white goes to cap, indicator and switched brown wire (#4).
Other yellow goes to indicator and switched blue wire (#1).
Yellow wires are the thermal protector.
Looks like you still have your red and white wires paired, so you should be good!
I updated my wire color post with the numbers on my switch (which don't match the wiring diagram 🤣)
Dunno about colors, mine are all grey
But you can measure the resistances to figure out which are the two coils
You have a main and starter coil. Not sure which is the lower resistance. But usually they’re 2 different resistances.
So total of 4 wires. If they’re 3 then the they have a common wire (like the black block on the schematic)
One of the coils is wired directly to mains (after switches) and one is wired in series with the cap
No. Being AC, there is no polarity.
Those could also be the thermal fuse.
But yeah there should be 3-4 wires shorted. The common 2 and the 2 coming from the thermal fuse
As in, all 4 at the same time, when connected to the quick connect block thingy *
You have 6 wires from the stator yes?
Yeah. His matches mine. Yellow thermal protector, then a red/white pair.
Two red making one coil?
To which coil is the cap wired up? Lower or higher resistance ?
The cap is weird.
Mine is across both coils.
And that matches the wiring diagram.
Basically the coils are wired in series and the cap is wired across them.
So it's a start/run cap
Nah it can’t, wouldn’t run that way. But the wiring diagram is confusing.
Weirded me out at first too but it checks out. It’s wired in series with one
Hmmm
I trust you. Need to trace the wires.
It’s a start cap that isn’t decoupled because it doesn’t run long enough to overheat it 🙂 so yeah that sort of makes it start + run
Or a cheap solution to a still existing solution
For a hopper switch or something?
Yeah let’s say there’s phase and neutral coming from the supply. Then neutral goes through the thermal fuse and connects to the common / one side of both coils.
Phase goes to coil 1 directly, and with cap in series to coil 2
Yep.
I'll post a color-coded diagram shortly.
These actually don't have contactors on the timer models.
Contactor is basically a fancy relay. Send a low power signal to a set of contacts and they close, sending power to a heavy load.
Ok.
Mapped it out.
The hanging lead is red. So the white coil runs on phase-to-neutral and the red lead runs through the capacitor, creating the phase lag.
The timer switch is DPDT and switches both phase and neutral. Neutral heads over to the indicator lamp and one of the thermal protector leads, which comes back on the other side to tie both coils together. Phase goes from the switch straight to the white coil, the indicator lamp and the cap, which energizes it. The other side of the cap energizes the hanging red lead.
I need to pull my doser window!
Here is a color-coded wiring diagram.
Black wires are the ones that are actually white.
That's moderately less embarrassing
No trouble. I pulled it because it was filthy!
You got it to seat onto the drive pin, right?
If so, I'd grind some beans and then make sure the center bolt is snug and then carry on.
Did you mark your upper carrier?
Letting things settle is a good game plan.