Mounting EP1 to low voltage electrical box, anyone have a modified case for this?

[stark kite]

Hello all,
New here, and waiting patiently for my EP1s to arrive.

One of the goals for mounting my EP1s in my house is to not have visible wires. The way I want to do this is to basically attach them to wall plates (like one would have for light switches, power plugs, or ethernet wall jacks), and adapt the case to screw in to the gangbox. I've never messed around with 3D modeling, but have been meaning to learn for a while.

Before I embark on trying to make a case like this, I thought I'd ask here if anyone has made a case or other way to mount the EP1 to a wall plate.

Thanks!

[fierce vortex]

I haven't seen one yet personally 😬

[daring pecan]

I did start to look at a design based around UK sized back boxes but my OCD would want to put the PIR centrally which is not possible so I abandoned the idea. Where in the world are you and what dimensions are your gang boxes? I've had a request to design for the USA Decora style plate but haven't got round to that either as I have so many projects going on at the moment.

[stark kite]

I'm in the US. I can get some gang box dimensions shortly if you've got something partway already.

[daring pecan]

That would be good - DM me so that I don't miss anything 😄

Or even better - send me a McMaster-Carr part number

[stark kite]

Here's the McMaster-Carr Part of the box the faceplate would attach to: https://www.mcmaster.com/gang-boxes/material~plastic/low-voltage-plastic-outlet-boxes/

[daring pecan]

Ideal. I'll try and take a look over the weekend.

[daring pecan]

Is it the 1 or 2 gang (or something that would work with both)?

[stark kite]

All mine are going to be on 1 gang boxes. Not planning any 2 gang boxes.

[daring pecan]

Forgive my ignorance of the USA gang boxes but could you clarify something for me? Am I right in assuming that the screw holes top and bottom are for attaching whatever device you are fixing within the box, then, the faceplate screws directly into the drywall?

[stark kite]

In the US for a normal set of plugs, the actual current carrying part has a screws on the top and bottom the screw into those holes on the gang box. The face plate then either screws into the middle (if it's a two plug receptacle) or into two other closer in screw holes on the switch.

This of course goes a little out the window for low voltage like ethernet, where the face plate does screw directly to the gang box holes.

[daring pecan]

OK - with you. But, how does that work with the modular face plates? I was looking at those because it may make a more flexible install. The modules seem to have spacing that match the screw holes in the low voltage box but the faceplate has holes that don't match with anything.

I suppose what I should be asking is - are the Decor/Decorex style modular low voltage faceplates and modules different from the gang box you linked to. That may be where my confusion is coming from 😄 Sorry!

[stark kite]

I'm not familiar with decor/decorex. Let me do some looking.

[daring pecan]

This is the sort of thing https://store.cablesplususa.com/patch-panels-jacks-work-area-outlets/modular-face-plates/- I'm just looking at some Youtube cat6 installs using them - I think my confusion is being caused by the modular plates I found on McAster-Carr. I don't think the 3D models of the actual modules have been sized correctly!

[sturdy portal]

Congratulations @daring pecan! You just advanced to level 10!

[stark kite]

Ah, I see. In the US there's some people who will use a low voltage box and just run an HDMI cable or a network cable through a conduit tube and straight out. The "wall plate" in that case is just to hide the box edge. Let me go pull an ethernet plate so I can give you an idea of what a plate with a purpose looks like.

[sturdy portal]

Congratulations @stark kite! You just advanced to level 1!

[stark kite]

@daring pecan hopefully these pictures help show the alignment of the screw holes

[daring pecan]

Ideal thank you. I'm going to ignore the modular route - too many variables! Thanks again - need some sleep now 🙂

[stark kite]

one final not, I figure out what's going on with the decorex inserts. They would be attached with the same screws that go from the face plate through to the gang box.

[daring pecan]

Me again. Sorry! So, I have downloaded multiple bits from McAster Carr and none of the hole spacings match up between the boxes and the faceplates! I've done a lot of research and the hole spacings for their files just don't seem to tie up with the standard US hole spacing for either the box mount, device mount, or the strap mount! I think this is probably intentional so you can't just download one of their CAD models and print it out but it really doesn't help me 😅
Sorry to be a real pain but can you confirm the measurements on this site apply: https://www.datapro.net/techinfo/gang_plate_mounting_dimensions.html

[stark kite]

Plate size is right.
Hole spacing for what I have is 3.25" apart, center to center.

[daring pecan]

Cool. Thanks so much!

[daring pecan]

How does this look @stark kite?
Just initial renders and I will need to add openings for the light sensor and temp sensor.
@fierce vortex you may be interested 😄

[fierce vortex]

That's pretty cool looking not gonna lie 😄

[stark kite]

That looks fantastic!!!!

And here I was just thinking something that'd mount outside the box on the screws. This is super rad.

definitely going to be adding holes of some sort for temperature sensors, because at least for me, that's one of the main draws of these.

[daring pecan]

Cool! Glad you like it 😊 ! I'll work on the holes later and produce a print to test for fit.

[daring pecan]

@stark kite I've added a ring of openings. Also had to change the fillet (curving) on the edges to something more angular to make printing easier (no supports). Quick video linked using a mock up of the low voltage gang box (sized as per the one you linked to). I only had completely inappropriate M3 cap-head machine screws, but you get the idea! One small caveat - if you 'need' to power by USB, you will need a right angled USB cable - there isn't enough clearance between the connector and the gang box screw for a straight one.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MxXAPbcRkTRmhY-bCs1DCsFUQLMCKt_-/view?usp=sharing

[stark kite]

This is more amazing than I could have imagined. Thank you so much!!!!
Wife approval is through the roof!

[daring pecan]

LOL!
So, I haven't even asked - do you have the facility to print?
And, do the screws you use to attach the plate use countersunk holes? I haven't currently got countersinks on those holes but it's a 2 minute job to add them before I finalise.

[stark kite]

Yes. My printer is currently out of commission, but it's still a few months until my EP1s arrive. So plenty of time to fix it, or ask a friend.

As for counter sunk holes, that might be good, but isn't necessary. I don't know what the heads of the screws I'm even going to use are yet.

[sturdy portal]

Congratulations @stark kite! You just advanced to level 2!

[daring pecan]

OK - I will see if I can get some averaged out head measurements and add a small countersink. I will then put the final file up on Cults and post the link.