I just got a P2S to print cosplay armor and helmets. I am seeing bulging lines that I can't get rid of. I have of course ran all the auto calibration on the printer, firmware is up to date, filament dried in the AMS. Using .12 mm layer height with the build in profile in Bambu Studio. I even tried tightening all the belts. Also tried enabling precise walls, Arachne walls. I really need help. Wall order is inner/outer. Also tried putting printer on the floor.
#Bulging lines on all prints
53 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Hey @abstract spear, thank you for contributing to this forum.
Please provide as much information (images, video, description) as you can. This will increase the chance that someone can help you with your issue.
Use the Close button when your issue is resolved.
One on the benchy is normal thats the hull line.
The rest... id check belttension for the z axis and relube the lead screws
@abstract spear
I already tightened the belts as I said. Why would I need to relube when it's brand new?
Brand new doesnt mean flawless
And inconsistent layers are usally due z issues
Or extremely weird speed changes
I'm gonna try changing speeds and I'll grease it up
It kinda looks like overextrusion...especially since its not at consistent places between the two prints.
Have you run the manual flow rate calibration? (Not the automatic flow dynamics ) IIRC the P2S has to do the rate calibration manually
Yeah looks about right what speed changes / layer time do. You can brute force it by changing the min time
https://forum.bambulab.com/t/banding-caused-by-differences-in-layer-time/22480/3 and the layer time with cooling (orca has the same setting)
The issue only happens when the support interface is a different filament. Increasing minimum later time does not resolve. Only workaround I can think of for now is to print support interface in the same filament
Hmmm
Increase support interface print speed perhaps?
But I want my supports to be clean mm
What do you use as support material?
Bambu PETG hf
Did you happen to observe the nozzle temp after a change?
Since petg needs a higher temp to print and purge your nozzle might be too hot and overheat the pla for a while
Is there a different filament I can use perhaps for the support interface? That would be a similar temp?
I guess I can try Bambus support filament or pva
You could try lowering the density of the interface layer
Which should help with support but limited contact points
Density of the interface layer when printing with petg as the support interface?
it is on classic. I did try arachne as well as I originally said and it didnt help
I often ask several times because often accidental changes happen
You can also try reducing the outer wall speed to 30mm/s and make a test piece 🙂
I-I tried taht
Ah poopy but
Well then gcode edit is
In your printer config in orca should be a line M109 S260 ;set nozzle to lets try 230
By replacing the s260 with 230
if layer time still looks like this can that be ignored?
It should hopefully allow you to ignore the layertime
oki ill try to test eventually
Yeah maybe make a small test piece though so you dont waste too much filament
You can try but check the preview first 🙂
Oh can you post a picture of the preview with layer type preview maybe we can change something there
not finding exactly that in the change filament code
Ah damn
Hmm
You could try chanig the petgs max temp to 230
here is this