#random adhesion issues

209 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

fresh badge
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I’ve been trying to print on my elegoo Neptune 3 plus’s And I keep getting the strange adhesion issue that I’ve never got before.

For context I usually use ultimates cura but have been trying to learn orca slicer as everyone has been saying it’s amazing. I was getting odd adhesion issues using orca where the filament would curl back on the nozzle creating a blob or horrible adhesion if it did manage to stick.

I did the usually methods of checking for clogs, re leveling, printing hotter on both my bed and nozzle but it kept happening.

Prior to trying orca my printers never had this issue so I figured why I trouble shoot I’ll send some prints using cura but now I’m having that exact same issue with cura as well.

I attached videos of what’s happening along with pictures of my current setting. I’m hoping somebody out there can help me in the right direction. Thank you!

chrome gulchBOT
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Hey @fresh badge, thank you for contributing to this forum.
Please provide as much information (images, video, description) as you can. This will increase the chance that someone can help you with your issue.
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pale osprey
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try cleaning the bed with water and soap

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I tried, same with 91 percent IA

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@pale osprey Iv also tried changing nozzles. Heat socks. I got a better video of what’s happening

pale osprey
pale osprey
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The built in sensor

pale osprey
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Okay different plan

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Can you measure your printbeds size

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Sometimes its larger then the volume and if you dont have the correct dimensions in your slicer you get all kind of problems

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@pale osprey For sure, print size has never been an issue in the past Iv been using these machines for over 2 years that’s why I’m so confused. If you look at the video it almost looks like the filament is being extruded too fast and the nozzle can’t keep up.

pale osprey
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I mean auto bed level is off and if it were on it would be with z fade sooo

pale osprey
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No g29 nor m420 s1 active so there os no auto bed leveling on

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So when I level it and do the manual setting it then heats up and says it goes through auto leveling?

pale osprey
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what

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manual leveling is completly different from abl ...

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Hang tight

pale osprey
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okay

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okay so step 1 if you toy with the start script...

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Go to your printer and set the z offset to 0

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because if anychanges apply now because sudddenly abl is on you run the risk of ramming your nozzle into the print bed b

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pale osprey
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so you did not change the z offset to 0 now?

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Okay just set the Z off set to zero

pale osprey
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exactly

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now you preheat the bed and nozzle to your wished print temp

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Okay everything’s preheated

pale osprey
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great now you can do the auxilary leveling a few times in a row

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mostly because unfurtunaly each time you turn the springs etc you affect every otherone. thats why you have to do it like 2 to 5 times back to back

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Okay give me a few minutes.

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@pale osprey Okay done, did it three times. gaps seem consistent to one another

pale osprey
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awesome

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now run the autobed level that you have a fresh mesh

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Running now

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And done

pale osprey
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nice

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now uncomment the M420 s1 in your slicers start script and slice a new file 🙂

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@pale osprey So delete this entire line?

pale osprey
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uncomment means remove the ; infront of the m420 ...

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how shall it work if you remove code 😄

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i mean if you konw a way you will be rich and a god among programmers 😄

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@pale osprey gone. Gonna realize now and let you know

pale osprey
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okay that looks fine. now your meshleveliing should be active in your newly sliced files

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if you make one set the z offset during a print and store it after the print (save settings or so) after that you should be hopefully fine with bed adhesion etc issues

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till overtime the printer unlevels it self and you might have to run the leveling agian in like 50 prints or so

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@pale osprey ugh Still the same unfortunately

pale osprey
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did it print in air on the start or no change at all

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@pale osprey No change. It prints the prime line no problem but when it’s the actual print the first extrusion always get stuck to the nozzle creating those globs

That’s why I’m so confused no matter how many times I level or Reslice nothing changes. Is it possible there’s a setting that I’m not seeing that got adjusted by mistake?

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It just seems odd it happened after I messed with orca and it’s on both my Pluses that were perfectly level prior

pale osprey
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while you can change / add to a printers firmware via gcode in a verylimited way im not aware of orca having such an issue

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you can try resetting the firmware but thats just a guess

fresh badge
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Did that earlier today. I’m at a total loss

pale osprey
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can you send me one of your newly made gcodes?

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im away from my pc now but lil take a look from time to time

fresh badge
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Yeah you want me to slice up a benchy or something? How do you want me to send it

pale osprey
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Like as .gcode you print?

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Yeah you said send a gcode. You want me to slice it up or just send you the file

pale osprey
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Do both.

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How do you want me to send it

pale osprey
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Well here ? If too large google drive?

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So others can look into it to if you send me xXxrussianotaviruscyka.exe 😄

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@pale osprey

pale osprey
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Good stl is looking fine.

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at this point id pay for it ot be fixed. maybe flow rate? are there any setting i can send that will maybe give you a better idea? iv printed HUNDREDS of benchys befroe i know the printer can do it. im not printing to fast (60mms) my temps have stayed conssistent (print temp 200, inital layer 210, build playe 60)

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let me try to get a bigge rprint sliced so i can hopfully get a better video of what its doing, maybe youll see something im not

pale osprey
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Okay. And you say the issues started on 2 neptune 3 plus after one time tests with orca?

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The gcode is interresting because it crashes my phone

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yeah i was messing with orca trying to learn and when i get frustrated i figured id take a breka but in the mean time get some of the prints im working on started. loaded them up in cura which is my usualy slicer and thats when this issue started

pale osprey
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And you have no back up / success with a freshly made profile

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none

pale osprey
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Hmmhmm

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You wanna bet its something super simple?

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honestly i hope so at this point

pale osprey
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Okay gcode also looks uncorrupted

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That leaves me reading through firmware -.- can you tell me the version you have?

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i just updated it this morning when i flashed it but let me get the exact numbers

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1.2.5.1a is the version i have installed

pale osprey
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You are printing very close to the edge. Its possible that there is a temperature drop. Do you have a different error if you print in the mid?

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so iv been printing in the middle i moved the benchys to the edge to get a better video for oyu

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the result has been the same hto

pale osprey
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Hmm

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In your start script

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You have that line

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For fun try E-2 instead od E-1

fresh badge
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unless im blnd i dont think i even have that?

pale osprey
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is it possible his is somethin like floew rate? or soemthing to do with extrsuion? i feel like maybe a corrupted file messed with my firmware or something

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its just weird no matter what i slice, how big i slice, fast,slow,ect on BOTH printers its the same issue

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@pale osprey actually can you check this file? its what i was trying to print when it all started

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crap there to big to send

pale osprey
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Wirh cura same profile etc

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yeah its a wolverine cowl from d03d

pale osprey
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Link?

pale osprey
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Doesnt work. But im out of ideas

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If i find one ill let you know

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okay. thank you for trying i really appriciate it

pale osprey
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No problem its a good way to keep up with newer printers but not buying each ender 3 clone woth minor changes ^_^

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Whats a little odd only smaller and mid tier creators seem to have made reviews on the plus

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iv had the plus for 2 years and the 3 max for almost a year. all of which have preformed SUPER well

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thats why im at at loss with this issue

pale osprey
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A classic would be the tiny bowden tube piece inside the heatbreak they have is degraded of that time but i dont think so

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Do you use the elego branded cura or ultimaker cura?

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https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M048.html you can also try running that command. Basicly a text file add M048 P10 and change the files name to .gcode

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Should mame your printer run a probe repeatability test showing if the probe might be dead

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i use ultimaker. my printers also have direct drives so no bowden tubes

pale osprey
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Hotend or heatbreak should be teflon lined aka bowden tube

pale osprey
pale osprey
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@fresh badge i would try the elegoo version. Cura 5.0 uses a different way to slice your files and it has no way to switch it back. Orca can switch between arachne and classic ... which would explain sudden issues if you changed slice engine 🙂

fresh badge
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so intresting development. i flashed all the firmware yesterday and reset the printer to factory. i sliced up a dimple 40mm cube fomr thingiverse changed nothing except one has a brimg the other a raft. the raft will print but the brim curls up like in the videos

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@pale osprey

pale osprey
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hmmm

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is the partcooling fan on at full blast during the first layer?

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no it turns on aftera few

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let me run something by you tell me if it makes sense

pale osprey
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which cura version are you using now

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5.1.1 could it be possible that when i went from cura to orca back to cura my z off set got messed up and thats why i was having trouble with all prints. then after my adjustments with you yesterday i got it close enough where i could get rafts to stick and not brims.

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and that maybe im just not lowering my offset enough for brims to attach

pale osprey
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im not sure i know what you mean, i have only ever used cura so im not sure what arachne slice engine is as opposed to classic and how that effects the printrs

pale osprey
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.....

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after printing 2 years?

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it is possible that the firmwares had different values for steps or so

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so maybe adjust the z offset further down

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and with that im offical out of ideas

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i am 100 percent self taught. im trying to learn more but its not as easy when you dont fully understand or have someone to walk you through it. and videos and reddit only go so far with some issues

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apologies for the trouble thank you for the help

pale osprey
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Thats true but you could have asked sooner :p

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true but until issues arrise you dont always know what to ask

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@pale osprey okay, I seem to have solved it im getting better adhesion now, but as issues go when you solve one another arises.

I am getting pretty awful layer lines that seem to be rather inconsistent. A Third of the print might be fine and then midway up it’s filled with ripples (photos attached) i can confirm my z rods are not bent and I loosened the z rod screws just a hair to allow some play just in case there’s the slightest deviation.

I was curious as to some other way to fix this issue if its even z wobble at all

pale osprey
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Print a cylinder in vase mode that uses the complete buildareas height

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Printing now, it’ll take a few hours, but I’ll send pics one done. In the meantime, I was doing some tweaks and had printed a Z wobble test towers, and these are my results. Left is my plus and right is my MAX

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@pale osprey

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@pale osprey done, taller of the two is the max shorter is the plus

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Any recommendations?

pale osprey
# fresh badge Any recommendations?

The left one has definitly some z binding. The increased wobble at height is either a lack of cooling, printhead introduced vibrations or temp swings on the heatbed. Rarely so far it was caused by a bad off center extruder gear

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Any recommendation? @pale osprey

pale osprey
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Kill it with fire.

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Seriously normal calibration and maintance. Cleaning rods relubing checking belt tensions etc

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And possibly a higher layertime but thats material depending

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@pale osprey Yeah at first I thought it was a leveling issue but when the first bit looked pretty good I wasn’t sure.

gonna try tightening those brass screws and slowly loosing them a half rotation each print then clean the z axis rods and relube them. Hopefully that helps.

Belt tension seems okay to me I was messing with that a lot yesterday

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@pale osprey Getting some improvement but noticing some of the thicker lines are matching up with the previous prints. Once it gets bigger up is when the quality starts to drop significantly. I’m printing it with zero infill and no top layer so part of me wonders if it’s just because it’s a taller thinner print so natural wobble is at play?

pale osprey
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Could be try vase or spiral mode

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It is possible that it simply starts to wobble but if i got you roght you have core xy printers?

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yes both the neptune 3 plus and the max are bed slingers that use corexy

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Okay I’m printing two vases now in spiral mode. I did them mid height so I can distinguish real wobble vs natural wobble @pale osprey

pale osprey
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Anyway with slingers its either the frame wobbling, the springs too lose of the bed or to high acceleration

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No sir no mocking I promise I just wanna be thorough. That’s all . And when you say springs do you mean the springs above the level adjustment wheels?

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@pale osprey

pale osprey
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Are there others?

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@pale osprey Like I said just wanna be sure 😂 those are tight tho on both machines. Belt tension seems good. The z axis screw are loosened by about a turn and half allowing some play and the Gantry and extruder have no unneeded wiggle.

pale osprey
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I heard that z axis so often in the last time. Can you show me via a image which do you mean

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Yeah for sure

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I’m out of the house that isn’t my photo but it’s the same machine

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@pale osprey

pale osprey
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Jep its the bs solution.

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That loosening of the brass sprocket...

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Does usally only 1 thing making your z axis loose percision.

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And its not fixing the issue like a oldham coupler or a flex coupler would do.

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@pale osprey Gotcha. I’ll be sure to tighten them back up then. The rods themselves don’t seems to be bent or have a wiggle to them. It was just the most common solution on the web

pale osprey
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You can check if the black part is 90 degree. Its often bend.

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I’ll double check when I get back, but I believe when I did my initial run through it was not. You gotta get yourself a YouTube channel, my man 😂

pale osprey
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Thx (and there is one) but to grow furthr it.would require more work / stuff thats interresting for me.

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Well you’re helping the hell outta me! i’ll let you know about it those pieces are bent when i get back home!

pale osprey
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I think most stuff on my channel is outdated anyway or has some french complaining about not beeing in french

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@pale osprey alright everything seems to be correct with nothing bent

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Neptune 3 plus is improving but still not the best.

pale osprey
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Hm the underextrusion is weird. You did not change speeds or temp?

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no, of you look at the past photos i had under exrusion in them to

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iv cleaned the hot end and totally changed the nozzle mutiple times already @pale osprey

pale osprey
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Under extrusion is not only caused by a bad hotend

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You csn try a bit higher temp

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yeah ill bump it from 200 to 205 then again to 210 and see if there's any change. i have enough of these towers to build a city now 😂

pale osprey
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I want to make a joke but i lllbe canceld for thst

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brother NOOOOOOOOO 😂

pale osprey
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Gotcha. doing one more test print (ironman face plate) at a higher temp first and then if the under extrusion is still there ill try this test

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@pale osprey

pale osprey
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👍

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Do the quality seems to have gotten better

These are from my max (ignor where the support failed that was me)

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And this is my plus that is still printing

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However the under extrusion is in the exact same place on both models from two different printers

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@pale osprey

pale osprey
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Hm

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If you look at the gcode you used is there something odd? Like suddenly only a single wall or tons of small dots as infill etc.

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Not that I’m seeing. I was getting that under extrusion on the red hood helmet I was trying to print as well. I’m gonna try and reprint that on all 3 of my printer and see if there’s noticeable change since Iv made adjustments since then

pale osprey
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Good luck

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No under extrusion on these pieces just pretty bad layer lines

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@pale osprey

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I think it may just be down to honing in bed leveling now