ive tried 4 times to print this and it wont print al the way i cleaned the printer and re sliced it and it fails im about to give up on is part
#✅ - why does this part fail
feral pasture
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past oar
Take a screenshot after you slice it so we can see the sliced model with supports
feral pasture
one min
that where it failed at
idk why the support are like that
i wonder if this is better
dang you got off
past oar
Is that exactly how you were trying to print it?
With the supports on the inside of the mask and all?
feral pasture
i dont want to but if it works it works
past oar
How did you orient the mask and place supports in your previous prints of it?
past oar
Welli mean you habe some idea what you did dint you? Like did you stand it straight up or have it angled or something?
feral pasture
what ever works i just trying to start it
past oar
Also the leaning the mask forward like you have it in your pics may do well. You also may not even need supports for the inside detail side
past oar
What's the detail side of the mask look like if you go back to the prepare tab with the mask oriented like that
feral pasture
past oar
My opinion, I'd send it like that. Worst thing that could happen is it fails. But that's part of this hobby.
feral pasture
for a 5th time
past oar
for a 5th time
Yeah sometimes.
How else you gonna learn without some failures. Not every model will be just dropping it in the slicer, pressing slice and then sending it to the printer. Most things you will have to play around with the orientation and figure out the best orientation to print it, and also where supports are need and where they may not be if a model does require supports.
It takes time and practice
past oar
Nice looks good
past oar
I wish I could tell you on why your original prints failed but without being able to have seen how you had orienyed the mask for printing on them or possibly seeing the failed print even still on the printer then I can't really tell you
feral pasture
i plan to record everything i dont have a cam for that rn
past oar
do you think this would work better
It could work. You gotta look how the supports are joining up to the model and see if you think it will work. You will have some supports on that front area marked in red and it may need a little bit of clean up in post processing but it could work. I would personally do it how you had it oriented before but thats me. It's up to you which you wanna try and make an educated decision
past oar
i plan to record everything i dont have a cam for that rn
Definitely helpful if you aren't around to watch prints
past oar
Yeah that's why a lot of people like to use octoprint on older printers and set up a cam then they can watch their printer from wherever they are through a web browser. That's also why some newer printers come with cameras or give the option to get one
past oar
Black Fridays coming up
Perfect time
past oar
Anyhow I’ll try more things tomorrow I gotta be up at 6
Sounds good and oof
feral pasture
Sounds good and oof
What if I slow it down
past oar
What if I slow it down
Well how fast have you been printing?
feral pasture
100
past oar
That Is probably to fast for that machine. I'd slow it down
feral pasture
Ok. It’s not really to fast because I’ve print many thing on 100
past oar
But how was the quality though on them. Because to high of speed can result in poor quality
past oar
Which printer is this again?
Is this a e3 max neo?
If so then 100 is definitely to fast. A big bed slinger cannot move that fast
glacial vector
Not necessarily big prints. But taller prints such as the faceplate i always slow down
pliant island
Tall prints, thin prints, large prints, detailed prints, all of these need slower speeds. The only time I ever print fast on my Max Neo is when I am printing large blocks of material, or utilitarian hardware that doesn't need to be pretty. I ran at around 25-40mm/s for my Iron Man faceplate, I believe. I don't really remember exactly what setting I used, but I do know it was lower than 50mm/s. That is with black Overture PLA at 205-210degreesC, with the bed at 60degreesC
One issue you may run into with detailed prints is clogging when the many retractions back melted filament up into the Bowden tube. One way I kinda get around this is by using a bimetal heatbreak. The Slice Engineering ones don't fit the Neo hotend, but Creality CR-6SE heatbreaks do.
past oar
So for bigger prints go lower
Big printers especially bed slingers you go slower. And like creature and Jonathan mentioned, tall prints and especially tall thin prints you go slow, even slower than normal on tall thin prints.
pliant island
My tallest print was an 18-inch tall Stormtrooper E-11 barrel, printed vertically with just a brim and a couple supports on my CR-10 S5 which has 16lbs. or so of glass and metal to sling back and forth on its bed. That was a SLOW print, and it still failed, but only because the filament was bad and caused the finished barrel to splinter in the middle. The print actually was successful as far as structure completion is concerned.
feral pasture
I have more filament coming tomorrow and I got one unopened role
Only because I need more thing to Oder for free shipping
feral pasture
I don’t rn but I put in the cart for later
I need some more things for the helmet
And my dog ate my mic cord
pliant island
🙄 Dogs
feral pasture
Bruh it’s Because I forgot to give her her pills
She was hit by a car and had surgery so she on pain meds and pills to keep clem
Calm
pliant island
Aw, poor puppy... I hope she gets well soon.
glacial vector
Plus slowing the print down gives that inner faceplate detail crispier edges/overall look
feral pasture
k
feral pasture
Plus slowing the print down gives that inner faceplate detail crispier edges/ove...
im printing it 75 and its so slow
past oar
im printing it 75 and its so slow
One of the downsides of a bedslinger printer, especially a big one. There's no way around it if you want good prints
feral pasture
11:55 pm
pliant island
How's it looking?
pliant island
Ok
feral pasture
past oar
Looks really good so far. How's the detail side of the face plate look?
past oar
It'd be like that. You will have to do test prints to see if you are able to raise the speed, whether it be the wall speed or infill speed. You can also do tests to see about raising the travel speed depending on what your travel speed is set to. But if you do test these only change one setting at a time when testing. If you start changing multiple settings at the same time then you will not know what exactly made your prints better or worse.
How's the detail side of the face plate look?
feral pasture
Oh no
pliant island
Well, that just figures...
At least you know how to slice it. There's a chance you could cut the end flat and then feed the beginning of a new spool in after it.
I've been able to achieve this twice. However, the ends do have to be very flat, and you have to babysit it and feed the new end completely through the extruder gear and into the Bowden as it is printing.
@feral pasture
glacial vector
If you have another spool, you kinda have to just sit there and feed in the new one
When I’m getting close to the end of a spool, i always find out how many grams i have left and compare that to my slicers gram usage. If it’s close i just use a new spool and save the old one for smaller stuff
But that’s if i know I can’t watch the printer, if i can i just feed a new spool
past oar
Was it a layer shift or something? Hard to tell by your pic
pliant island
I think there was a gap in extrusion when the filament continuation procedure was attempted.
past oar
I think there was a gap in extrusion when the filament continuation procedure wa...
Ahh true. That is possible
feral pasture
I think there was a gap in extrusion when the filament continuation procedure wa...
that is why
i messed it up
pliant island
I had that happen with some Mando shoulder plates I printed, and it turns out the file had a hairline crack that the slicer allowed to stay. So weird.
pliant island
i messed it up
You learned a little. You are fine, your printer is fine, but you'll have to watch the filament weight more closely in the future. You are lucky it wasn't a paying customer's armor order that it messed up on (it's happened to me twice so far).
feral pasture
You learned a little. You are fine, your printer is fine, but you'll have to wat...
i done it the right way in the past but i messed up
past oar
It takes practice
feral pasture
human error makes me mad
pliant island
Ah. I know the feeling. Nothing like walking into the shop in the morning with the hopeful feeling of a new day, only to discover you were literally one eight of a print away from a finished object when the spool ran out. On a 3 day print.
pliant island
Then I'm stuck kicking myself over the filament I could've saved if I had just started a new spool.
However, armor typically uses a lot of filament, and I can't have dozens of partly used spools hanging around. 😅
@feral pasture , you are good. Just try again on the new spool.
feral pasture
<@858008291074244619> , you are good. Just try again on the new spool.
im trying again
rn
pliant island
I might also suggest reslicing the object, just to create a new file; I've found sometimes stopping the file mid-print can corrupt it...
Just a tip.
feral pasture
i should stop the print then started back up
pliant island
Ok.
past oar
Well did you already stop the messed up one or did you just let it keep going?
glacial vector
human error makes me mad
Part of hobby
Screw ups on your part are guaranteed
No matter the skill level and knowledge
pliant island
Ok. Go up to the top and click the "Close Thread" button in the second post by K.E.V.I.N. the bot.
jagged heronBOT
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