#Mechanic-y things. For everything vehicle related.
2145 messages Ā· Page 3 of 3 (latest)
Even better, Ford parts on an American Airlines Tug
4.8 (metric) grade bolts are totally insufficient for attaching a tow-ball, right? It's to be used to tow a horsebox behind a Landcruiser.
I'm just basing that assesment on a quick google which only mentions 8.8 and up in this context, and from the bolts in my desk being marked 8.8...
Yeah no I wouldn't trust a 4.8 grade bolt for that
If anything I'd go 1-2 grades up from minimum if you can.
Thanks. Any downsides in too high a grade, or is more just better?
There probably is a downside but being honest I don't really know.
Thanks, I can now more confidently object to the 4.8. š
Turns out 8.8 was ordered and 4.8 was delivered. Glad I checked.
So here one I bet you all havenāt seen before or if so rarely was driving by a golf course in pcb when I see a golf ball come flying towards me heard it impact but figured it hit the road and impacted the underside of my bumper when I went to check it out I saw this
Hey, free golf ball.
Yea for a $1500 headlight cost of headlight and labor cause the whole bumper has to come off
What are you driving?
Also, consider talking to the golf course owners/managers about the incident.
I talked to an employee and they said it would have to fall on the homeowner insurance but I think that a load of bull since the course is right next to a public road with no netting to prevent balls from flying out into the road. Also part of the problem is I donāt live down there was there on vacation. 2023 Nissan rouge
Looks like a Mitsubishi/Nissan. Can probably go to a junkyard and find a same model year that was wrecked with one intact.
It does typically fall on the individual is what a quick search on the matter brought up, but Iād keep in touch with them and see if they could help you track down who it was. Couldāve been a slow day. Either way, donāt stop talking to them about it. If itās a range, then netting makes sense, but if not, it could come down to something as simple as a missing sign.
Also, try to keep the conversation over email.
Cyber truck was spotted in Australia
Lucky itās not summer
That thing will literally be a death ray
Remember that one building that reflected light and set stuff on fire
Thatās gonna be this
The walkie talkie building? In the UK?
That thing is a cartoon of a building
Yea
On the positive. You never need to take a grill-top when camping. Just throw the bacon and eggs for brekkie right on the hood š
Time for duck tape and bubble gum 
I'm sorry but what the fuck were they doing to cause that >:[
well, looks like either a line pressure or valve issue in the transmission was making it shift extremely hard, and apparently too hard.
I'm assuming since it was either a line or valve I'm guessing it's a chevy transmission as they have notoriously bad transmission valves iirc
Of fucking course it's the 4L70
I'm assuming this is on a heavy duty application. 4500 Duramax?
Not quite, it is mated to a 4BT cummins in a airport tug
An older unit of this style
No it wasn't Delta this time 
This time
Does anyone know if Land Roverās reliability has improved?
I guess it would be alright, but you have to remember that the parts and maintenance dont change if you buy a luxury car regardles of if its used or new.
its a Jag underneath so take that as you will
Notorious for getting stolen around here
Any of the new range rovers
Yeah, Iāve seen some reports on the how they steal these new cars
Are you in the UK?
Yeah
Yeah, I know theyāre struggling with that
Makes insurance obscene on them
Car thefts have also gone up in Canada and parts of the U.S.
Isnāt land rover trying to remedy that?
I actually have a friend that works for JLR
Discounts?
I'll ask next time I get a chance hah
lol
Tell them I wonāt do anything less than 90% off
Last question, Porsche Cayenne? Is that still considered reliable?
My parents have one
Year? How are they liking it?
They've got a 1st gen but it's still going strong if that says anything
I think it does. I ask cause my mother is considering Land Rover, but I donāt think thatās the right choice. And, she does a terrible job of remembering to keep up with regular maintenance. Pretty okay with oil changes, but often forgets to bring her SUV in for alignments and shit.
Iād rather she go for a Lexus GX, cause I think that could deal with a forgetful owner compared to something that may require you to stay on top of itā¦.or else
Anyway, thanks for the help
Ok so 2nd time the bearing failed now, contacted the supplier. Turns out there was a fault in a batch of my exact model bearing. Replaced with a different brand and works great so far, lets hope it lasts.
3rd times a charm?! š
Got refunds for both bearings so can't complain too much
Spent my weekend playing with a 4160 Holley on my dad's Torino, trying to get it somewhat dialed in. Got it to come down from 1800-2000 rpm in park to 1000-1100 and about 900 in gear. The motor has a cam that has way too much duration and overlap (I didn't pick it) and drove like crap unless you were hammering on it before. Now it pulls away nice and smooth and drives nice, but still has a bit of a tip in stumble when you give a good boot from idle/just off. Waiting on new accelerator pump cams to come in so I can try to dial that out.
For those that know, the stock pink cam (31 nozzle) in position 1 runs and drives the best, but when I put it in position 2 (which it should be from the idle rpm) it wouldn't take any gas and would die from fuel starvation. So it seems like it needs more fuel earlier in the blade movement but the charts are confusing to read. Any suggestions?
If you're able try to post a picture of the charts.
I'm not super well versed in deep engine work sadly, but I have some limited experience with cams so I can try my best to help.
The -# at the end of each label is the cam position on the arm, which is supposed to be tied to the idle rpm. For what I have (due to the old man's poor choice in cam for the car) should be set to position -2. But the pink cam on -2 just died as soon as you touched the gas, where you can drive the car in the -1 position.
I'm thinking either the red or white in position -2 would work for my needs.
Red cam is what I'd suggest. Looks like it'll fix some of the issues regarding the fuel flow issue you described while still providing a good power band. Only issue is it may raise your idle speed slightly.
That's what I was thinking as well. It shouldn't play with the idle, the accelerator pump cam has nothing to do with the idle speed itself just the way that fuel is delivered during the change over from the idle circuit to the primaries as the vacuum pressure builds with RPM. Been learning alot about how carbs function over the last couple of months. I am wholly convinced that there is not enough carb on this engine, its a 600cfm and Ford actually put out a "Tuning Guide" for the engine in 1970 that called for a 780cfm carb off a 429 Super Cobra Jet! which was worth like 20hp just from that one change, the also said to use a different factory cam that they offered and the car would go from 300hp to 365hp with those 2 things. The early days of the emissions regs were real rough on engine performance. same engine 2 years after was only like 200 hp becuase of not knowing how to really get the most out of things with cats and what not.
a modern cam, dual plane street intake and 750cfm carb have been dyno'd at 450hp, so it really goes to show what can be done now adays even with the old iron
Im uhh just gonna leave this here
Makeshift oil warmer
Just instead of warming it it's likely to be a electrical fire lol
Low miles, well maintained with custom block heater, no low ballers I know what I got.
Lookiny to check if alternator has gone bad any suggestions appreciated
Check for 14ish volts across battery when engine is running
Maybe check tension on the belt
I couldn't imagine getting 19v on a regular 12v system
Unless it's a truck battery or something? I'm not too sure about large vehicles
a couple questions, how old is the battery and does it show any signs of bulging or boiling off? do you have a multimeter to test the signal voltage at the alternator?
if the terminals are clean and tight you should have the same voltage at the battery terminals as you will read from the signal wire to the car's alternator. if you don't it could be connection related, however alternators are never meant to run any higher that 13.5-14.5 volts anything more indicates the regulator in the alternator is faulty.
if you are smelling burning rubber that might also confirm a faulty regulator as the higher the output of the alternator the higher the torque required to keep it turning under load which may very well cause noise or allow the belt to slip
Thx @trim hemlock
no problem š¤
Looks like coolant
Do you know what color coolant you usually run?
Also was this front? Back? middle?
Sisters car so not sure, front.
I'd guess coolant. When able open the hood and look at the coolant reservoir, see how much is in there.
If able take a picture.
Oooh that's an issue and a half
Means you have a substantial coolant leak from somewhere. More than likely it'll be a coolant hose with a needle sized hole
There are coolant pressure testers that will pressurize the system and show you the leak.
Can order them off amazon.
I would also change the oil and see if it's milky looking. That's an indication of a head gasket issue that's letting coolant into the oil system and that's not good for the bearings and everything in the reciprocating parts
That also
If it's bad enough it'll seep into the pistons and also leak out the side.
Which engine is in it? Is it a 2.0L?
Because 1.6L and 2.0L engines love to blow headgaskets
We don't have the polo here, but basic engine architecture is the same
That is very smooth
The second hole in the bottle is smart.
That is a man who takes his craft into an art
Polo coolant fun again, newer car this time. Coolant has been topped up with about 800ml of pure antifreeze without mixing with any water. It gives a current ratio of 57% antifreeze 43% water assuming it started at 50:50.
I can figure out the numbers to get it back to 50:50, however...
What are the chances that's evenly mixed, or it it likely to be mostly antifreeze sitting at the top of the reservoir?
Actually it seems it's slightly denser than water, so would sink, and hence mix?
So the Antifreeze will naturally mix with the water as the engine runs. But I would still try to correct it to 50:50 as soon as you can. Now if it's winter time you want to have a little more antifreeze than water because...cold
It should be about 52% antifreeze now, at least close enough not to matter. I assumed what I was taking out would be somewhat mixed because of the density difference. Absolute worst case if what I took out was 100% antifreeze it's still in the high 40%s.
You throw rod or something
#3 piston rod seized and snapped
Well now you have a nice vent hole
What can I say when the post office forgets to change the oil and it's a Jasper rebuild. 
Customer states. I put new calipers on the rear but they won't bleed correctly. š¤ 