#Wiring check - KESTIS Proffie v3.9 ECO-Max Chassis

24 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

limber hound
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Looking for a sanity check on the wiring here. Might swap Data4 for Data 3 on the pinout but this was just easier to draw because its so messy (i am sorry). Big question is do i need to bridge LED3/2 (pin 22/21). Im only doing it cause i saw a similar setup and was using it as a reference.

jagged shore
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So how I'm seeing it, you are using Data1 to drive the accent pixel (likely a CC), and you are using Data 2 for the main blade (you'll need a 330 or 470 Ohm resistor on Data 2 if that is the case)? Also, you are using a data pad to power a motor? (not sure there is enough power there, and I think it's a negative pad), as for your question about LED4 and 5, no you don't need to bridge 4 and 5 together for a single pixel. Techincally one LED FET can power a full blade (13A rated) but the second one adds redundancy as well as reduces the strain on one. But for chassis accents you can get away with only using 1. Also, you need to match Tx > Rx and Rx > Tx. If you match Tx > Tx and Rx > Rx the connection won't work.

limber hound
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-If i use Data1 for the main blade do i still need a resistor?

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LED4/5 are on the blade connector not a single pixel

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oh sorry i goofed

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its LED3/2

jagged shore
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no, but you will still need a resistor if you plan to use any of the data pads aside from Data1 need the resistor for data.

jagged shore
limber hound
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So i do bridge LED3/2 together connected ot the - lead on the CHC_F board

jagged shore
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if you are doing a single wire from board to chassis connector/pixel adapter, yeah you'll need to bridge the pads.

limber hound
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The Saber Armory

Here is our own addressable nano NeoPixel RGB accent LED. This is our chainable version meaning that they can be connected together in series. They have a Data Out pad marked with an O. Perfect for your crystal chambers and making your saber more 'fancy'!  These have no mounting holes or soldering vias…wires must be so

jagged shore
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nope, that's a cap, not a resistor.

limber hound
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ah nuts

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Ok so: move the Blade to Data1 and CC LED to Data2 which means the blade won't need a 330/470 ohm resistor and probably just move the motor to the 3.3v instead. Did i understand correctly?

jagged shore
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not sure on the motor tbh, never used one in an install.

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otherwise correct.

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then of course what I mentioned about the BT module data lines.

limber hound
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I believe they are correct in the diagram Rx-Tx ; Tx-Rx

jagged shore
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oop, they are. nvm, I was looking at it before I was fully caffinated.

limber hound
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no worries, the reason i was swapping the data lines was i had read that data 1 is pre resisted on the board and the NPXL connector for the blade has a resistor on it so this way you don’t need to deal with an in line resistor. Not sure how true what i read was tho

jagged shore
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Also means I need more caffeine.

limber hound
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heh no worries, looks like original wiriing will be fine then