#hello, I was wondering if any one would be able to help me with my proffie 2.2 board?
399 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
is it possible for us to chat in the general voice channel
i am not a good typist
but to answer your question, i did rewire it to LED Pad 4 and 5 and also edited my config file to use 4 and 5, and that disnt work
but dont fret too much i did already order a new proffie board
hm. can you post the config?
you said you're on led pins 4 and 5?
why 10? pretty sure that should be 4?
but i know is should have been 4 and 5
if you upload it as 4, does it light?
best thing i can think of without more info on the damage is to try to use a different data pin and see if that does anything
do you have a multimeter?
yes
but i have to wire my proffie board back in because i took it out so that i cauld just drop in the new one once i got it
you might be better off just waiting for the new one
also are you able to voice chat
i'm not at a spot where i can, but maybe someone else can pop in to help over voice
no problem, but can you still help me with my old board, im going to disney and i wanna bring my saber, and i might not get my new board in time
if you're willing to try to wire it, then i would try with a different data pin
it will only take me a couple of minutes to wire it back in
ill let you know when im done
all done
ready to start testing
LEd Ground is bridged on 4 and 5
and Data pin is Set to Data 2
you uploaded the new config?
no not yet, what do you want me to change
0, WS281XBladePtr<132, bladePin, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin4, bladePowerPin5> >(),
which one do i change
{ 0, WS281XBladePtr<132, bladePin2, Color8::GRB, PowerPINS<bladePowerPin4, bladePowerPin5> >(),
like this
i believe it's blade2Pin according to that link
not yyet
i would use your multimeter to see if you're getting power in the led pins
it dosen't look like i am
i'd guess the damage is probably a little more extensive then
are you reading power on any of the led pins?
i didnt llok like i was
i put a call in wip, maybe someone can think of something that i haven't
i checked again and got 3.5v on LED 1, which was what i configured in the config
wait so post the last config you uploaded
no i have it wired to LED 1 now
and it still doesn't light?
nope
guessing you don't have another blade to test on?
i tested the blade on another Saber and it works fine
is there power going to the data pin?
ill check
it is configured for Data pin 2 and LED pin 1
and it is wired to Data Pin 2 and LED 1
just so we are on the Same page
i got 3.3v on data 2
oh i thought you had wired to pins 4 and 5
is there power on the pins of the hilt side blade pcb?
ill check which pin is positive and negative
outer ring pins should be positive.
also they have LEDs on it and thay dont light up either
and which ones are negative and Data
in terms of a pixel adapter, outer ring positive, inner ring negative, center data
well the leds on there need to be programmed. if those aren't part of your config, i wouldn't expect them to light
they did before
but yeah Octanis is right, if the pixels on the board are wired separately they won't light unless configured to, also assuming they are physically wired.
from what I'm seeing wiring wise, I only see 3 wires which means the on board LEDs should be mirroring main blade data.
hmm. Ok, so if I am understanding correctly, you are getting sound and such but no actual light?
yup
hm. Can you see any physical damage to the MOSFETs on the board?
these, there are 6 total, 3 on top and 3 on bottom.
there is damage on one
originally i was useing mosfet 2,3
and blew that one up when i put the battery in backwards
ok, so you have already swapped the lines to different LED pads then? (still trying to catch up on what's been tried)
yes
what are they hooked into currently? 3,4?
he's on 1 rn
i just did a contonuity test on theh +,- and data pins from the proffie to the Bade PCB
and didnt get contonuity on the Data pin in the center
hmm. if that's the case try checking the solder joints from data1 and the pixel adapter data. See if there is a break.
my solder joint look good
check the continuity from the joints themselves, see if the wire is good.
no, check the on board resistor for the PCB.
should read a resistance of 330 Ohm or 470 Ohm.
if that resistor is good, then yeah it's likely a dead PCB, but I would rule out that resistor being dead first.
ok, so both are reading correct. What about data pad to data pin continuity?
no
shoot, that sounds like there is a physical break somewhere. if the resistors are showing the correct reading (yes, that falls into the 330 ohm range) and the wire and joints seem good then yeah, PCB might be dead. could always totally clean off the pads, new wire and new fresh joints to fully rule it out, but yeah, seems the PCB has physically broken.
time to get a 2nd hilt 😉
alredy do
I have Asoka Tano's hilts from the MAdalirean
wow i spelled that incorectly
ready for your next install then!
they alredy ahve installs in them
but your right i could always get a Dark saber Hilt
do you know what kind of blade PCB i have
cant seem to find it
I had someone send me a spare proffie with their commission once because they had no need for it.
no need to find the exact one, they are all the same size and layout, or at least should be.
yea but mine had LEDs on it
but, this is it I think: https://www.etsy.com/listing/1118273962/shtokcustomworx-npxl-v3-shortpin-pcb
so do a lot of others these days.
smugglers outpost also tends to ship really fast
not sure if he does on weekends or not, but
cool
i've always gotten it quick
i have 12 days till disney
same. Only ones quicker is TCSS, but that's because I'm closer to em.
you're in the lower 48?
yup
i would guess it would probably show up in time
yeah. Could always leave a note on the order, Albert is a pretty cool guy so if he knows there's a semi-rushed deadline to get it.
thanks alot guys for helping me find my issue
raven did most of the hard stuff
all I did was isolation of what could be a possible reason with the hardware. tbh there are more steps but would require using known working data to test the PCB aside from the proffie in that saber.
heyy guys i got the new blade PCB and it Still not working
I have No idea what i doing wrong
is anybody able to help
i'm about to go to bed, but if you ping me in 8-9 hours i can try
cool if i remember
Ok @quartz edge, caffinated. So, placing in a new pixel adapter still isn't working?
yup
ok, can you show me the soldering of the wires on the PCB?
and I check how I wired it with my other saber which is exactly the same ( all the parts are exactly the same
not at the moment, i ordered a new Proffie v3.9 on amazon and it should be here on saturday
gonna re wire it completley
hmm. Well, you could try putting the main blade data line on another data pad and update the config accordingly.
bit i had the signal wire going to data2 ground to the negative pad and positive from theh battery positive termanal to the positive pad
youp
yup
hang on, can I see the config you have flashed at the moment?
on the blade PCB there are 2 data pins
one is for the led on the PCB and the other goes directly to the center pin
shure
... Well, no hang on. There's technically 1 data pad on the pixel adapter PCB, and in normal config you only have one data line going to that pad. in this configuration there's 2 resistors in place and the LEDs on the PCB will mirror the blade. In v4 config one of the resistors is removed, the secondary data that controls the LEDs on the PCB is connected via tha pad and then the center pin is connected to the main blade data line.
and looking at the config you have, only data signal will be going to data1 pin. if you have the PCB connected to data 2, nothing will happen.
it was connected to the proffie on data pin 1
then explain this sentence.
this was for the connectiond on the pixel board not the proffie
I need a pic of how it's wired, I don't think we are on the same page here.
the signal pin from data pin 1 on the proffie was connected to data pin 2 on the pixel board, blade power pin 4 and 5 to the - on the pixel board nad + from the battery to the + pins on the pixel board
Ah, I see, I forget the pad is labeled D2.
Well, you could try wiring in the PCB to data 2 on the proffie and altering the blade array in the config so the main blade data is going to pin 2, see if it's the data1 pad on the proffie that is dead.
the funny thing is my other saber is an exact copy of the saber im trying to fix and i compared the 2 and all the wireing is the same
I have already done that, still no go
hmm.
yea, thats why im so confused and frustrated
cuzz what im doing should work but its not
yeah.
no, shouldn't be. Assuming things are physically wired correctly the config I saw should be working and causing the on board pixels to light up.
thenthere must be something wrong with my Proffie
kinda wierd that my speaker works and all my effects work
just noth the LEDs
yeah, I mean assuming we've eliminated any other possibilities, though having both the data 1 and data 2 pads not working. (this is also assuming the config update to switch the data pin was flashed correctly).
just to make absoultly shure whats the peoper prosedure to update the config
Well, the normal way is you alter the config file, make sure it's in the config folder for proffieOS and make sure the ino file is using that config in arduino then you flash from there by clicking upload when the board is connected via USB cable.
I didnt do that, all I did was edit the Config.h file saved it then put the SD card back in
but i didnt change any file names
ok so i was doing it wrong
there's also all in one software that makes the process easier. hang on.
cool
with this one, all you need to do is import your config file, then you can alter and upload all from the same software.
Guess im going to have redo all the software for this board
since i dont have the original ino file anymore
cool thanks alot i think i got it from here, looks like i was missing a step
glad we got it figured out. Lemme know if you have questions about the ProffieConfig software.
i will, just one more queestion, shuld i try this out now or just wait until i get the the V3.9 board
I would go ahead and try it now, that way you learn the software and process while you wait. Keep in mind, you will need to update the config file to say it's a v3 board (easy to do in the software) and also double check the pinout map for the v3.9 board. There are some things that have been moved around from the v2.2 board.
I will, i come from a 3d Printing background, i never blindly swap boards without using a pin out diagram, i know things change with different revisions of boards, (lets just say I learned the Hard way when i was younger)
well gonna go to bed, havent slept yet was up all night 3d modeling a new Chasis for this saber, so that i didn't have to spend another 75 bucks for a 2$ piece of plastic from goth3 Designs, that i could make at home on my 3d printer
sounds like why I learned to make chassis.
well, it also comes in handy for commissions.
yeah, these days he does for sure.
all of his Chasis should be like 15 bucks max
especially for the FDM versions
if it was SLA of SLS i could understand the price but Not for FDM
yeah, I think he has em that high because in the past others would buy the STL then distribute it without his permission or paying him for it, so yeah.
Honestly, I could get the high price if it was direct custom commissions and you were paying for the design time, but in this case.... not so much.
in my opinion, don't sell the STLs, and sell the prints only, at a fair price
and only sell the STL to a buisness partner and get commision from what he sells
well nice chating with you gonnna go to bed
heyy having an issue with my proffie os config\
sup.
heyy i got ProffieOS v7.14 installed on my hilt created a Configfile (with Fett263 config tool) but my sound is not working liiks like my LED are working
and i have everything wired up correctly
ok, how did you upload the config to the proffieboard?
looks like it's correct, did you see a progress bar for the upload or did it only count to 10?
one sec ill try to upload the code again and see
c:/users/sergi/appdata/local/arduino15/packages/proffieboard/tools/arm-none-eabi-gcc/9-2020-q2-update/bin/../lib/gcc/arm-none-eabi/9.3.1/../../../../arm-none-eabi/bin/ld.exe:C:\Users\sergi\AppData\Local\Arduino15\packages\proffieboard\hardware\stm32l4\3.6\variants\STM32L452RE-ProffieboardV3/linker_scripts/STM32L452RE_FLASH.ld:224: warning: memory region `SRAM2' not declared
c:/users/sergi/appdata/local/arduino15/packages/proffieboard/tools/arm-none-eabi-gcc/9-2020-q2-update/bin/../lib/gcc/arm-none-eabi/9.3.1/../../../../arm-none-eabi/bin/ld.exe: warning: changing start of section .bss by 24 bytes
c:/users/sergi/appdata/local/arduino15/packages/proffieboard/tools/arm-none-eabi-gcc/9-2020-q2-update/bin/../lib/gcc/arm-none-eabi/9.3.1/../../../../arm-none-eabi/bin/ld.exe: warning: changing start of section .bss by 24 bytes
c:/users/sergi/appdata/local/arduino15/packages/proffieboard/tools/arm-none-eabi-gcc/9-2020-q2-update/bin/../lib/gcc/arm-none-eabi/9.3.1/../../../../arm-none-eabi/bin/ld.exe: warning: changing start of section .bss by 24 bytes
c:/users/sergi/appdata/local/arduino15/packages/proffieboard/tools/arm-none-eabi-gcc/9-2020-q2-update/bin/../lib/gcc/arm-none-eabi/9.3.1/../../../../arm-none-eabi/bin/ld.exe: warning: changing start of section .bss by 24 bytes
c:/users/sergi/appdata/local/arduino15/packages/proffieboard/tools/arm-none-eabi-gcc/9-2020-q2-update/bin/../lib/gcc/arm-none-eabi/9.3.1/../../../../arm-none-eabi/bin/ld.exe: warning: changing start of section .bss by 24 bytes
Sketch uses 173512 bytes (34%) of program storage space. Maximum is 507904 bytes.
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so yeah, if it counts to 10 like that, the upload didn't work.
this is what I get but a pop up says its done uploading
you need to make sure that when the USB cable is connected to the board that you have the port and board selected in the Arduino 'Tools' dropdown menu.
Not technically.
but if the process is working it should look like this when uploading:
does this show as connected?
Ok, just to make sure you have the USB Type set to Serial + Mass Storage + WebUSB, DOSFS to SDCARD(SPI, CPU Speed to 90MHz, Optimized to 'smallest code'?
under the 'Tools' menu.
i have that but SDCARD (SDIO Speed Hig), and CPU Speed is Set to 80 not 90, (there is no option for 90
gah, I meant 80.
then everything is set correctly
Can you open the Serial Monitor and connect?
how do i do that
Ry, wasn't there an issue with proffie and the latest IDE version? Seem to remember something about that.
Yesn't, it wasn't a connection thing like this
looks like i can
You see the "Welcome to ProffieOS"?
no
screenshot?
but it giving me batttery voltage
and a couple of web links
did you run proffie-dfu-setup.exe?
same difference, so long as you used Zadig correctly
Do you have any software currently running in the background like Cura?
though zadig is the old way of doing things. Didn't I link the POD as well as ProffieConfig?
yep, I did.
ProffieConfig'd run the dfu setup to make sure that's all setup correctly
the proffie config was alittle confusing form me
so i used a youtube vid
and used fett263's configurator on hus site
you can just import that file to ProffieConfig and upload it from there.
ok ill try that
If I may ask: how so?
^ the creator of ProffieConfig, so feedback will help.
I selected an editing option and it was saying i needed to in cluse (Enable all Edditing Options) and i couldent find it then i asked raven and still had no idea whre to go for that and it kept faling the config check saying i didnt enable it
Also i mean no offence
Oh, you're completely fine, I'm all for feedback
how do i do this proffie - dfu -config
This is a thing with the fett263 prop that I think I'll change some things around to avoid this issue in the future.
In the General page of ProffieConfig you'll want to add ENABLE_ALL_EDIT_OPTIONS to the "Custom Options..." window, like so (ignore the others that are there)
If you imported the file it should be there already (assuming the file came from the fett configurator)
If you have ProffieConfig installed it should have run already, otherwise I can find the download link for just proffie-dfu-setup.exe
bottom of this page under OS specific setup: https://pod.hubbe.net/proffieboard-setup.html
my booard is noot showing up on the board list on com& only bootloader recovery
did you hit "Refresh..."?
Well that'd be an issue
Well, is it in bootloader? (You did say you put it in bootloader earlier)
is it because arduino ide is useing it
No, it won't prevent that from working
You can try closing arduino but it shouldn't matter.
(ProffieConfig actually communicates w/ Arduino under the hood, so if Arduino sees it it'd be very weird that ProffieConfig doesn't)
Yeah, can go to File->Re-Run First-Time setup from the ProffieConfig main menu
That'll run the dfu setup (on the Dependency Installation page)
got it noe on com 7
i guess i should enable mass storage and webUSB
what does editing mode do
enables things like volume control, blade color change, some altering of things like blade pixel count and such without needing to upload a new config.
whats the difference between edit mode and edit settings
Edit settings limits the options to I think volume and color editing. This is covered on the prop info on Fetts site.
Hover over the options 😉
Should give you an explanation
Although those are actually a bit lackluster, aren't they
tried to verrify config
got this error message
Setting menu cannot be combined with settings mode
how do i fix that
neverminde it was in the custom defines
Can you tell me what was in the custom defines exactly real quick?
extra color buffer space
enable all edit options
no repeat random
color change direct
and one of those caused an issue?
no only the enable edit settings, but i removed it because i want enable edit mode and they cant be used together
So EDIT_SETTINGS was in custom defines and you had Edit Mode selected on the prop page?
yes
Ah, ok
i guess all i have to do now is applie selected config to the board
does this also install proffie os
Yep!
ok cool
wow that was alot easier than i expected
might want to add where you add that enable all editing option in the description of edit settings and edit mode
and i can also use this to add more sound fonts to the saber and other sabers
Yeah, rn those descriptions are just pulled from fett's prop explanations, it'd be worth it for me to go back through and make clarifications like that, thanks for the feedback 🙂
Yep!
my sound isnt working though
No sound at all or are you getting an error message?
if it's no sound at all, double check your speaker wiring.
are you sure it's on the correct pads?
Are you getting lights and everything else?
yup did a continuity test to spkr+ and spkr -
so you checked continuity from Spkr+ to the tab on the actual speaker and same for Spkr -? And then also made sure there isn't a short between the 2 pads?
yea thats what i did
so I assume no beep when checking. Hmm. Normally i would try a different speaker but that isn't an option most have on hand.
(looks at his 30 speakers laying around)
what about using the Ohm setting on the speaker pads? What is the reading?
ok, that means there might be a short, you should be seeing close to the Ohm rating of the speaker.
Enable Edit Mode Menu System (Advanced on-the-fly saber controls, includes everything from Edit Settings)
Requires ENABLE_ALL_EDIT_OPTIONS in Custom Options (General Page)
Enable Edit Settings Menu (Volume, Clash Threshold, Blade Length, Gestures/Controls, Brightness)
Requires ENABLE_ALL_EDIT_OPTIONS in Custom Options (General Page)"
Something like that instead?
or a blown/damaged speaker, potentially
but it's very possible you shorted the pins to the speaker casing
since it's all so close together
indeed, might as well rule that out first before jumping to the dead speaker route.
Yeah, in which case my first suggestion would be to check the housing, makes sure the wires don't touch the back
yeah, really easy to short out on the metal back of the speaker with the tabs that close.
yea speaker died
swaped adiiferent one in from a different saber
gonna see if i can repair it
but it works
YAY

#electronics-and-sound message
That EDIT_SETTINGS in the custom options ended up being a little typo for the fett prop page too, so thanks for bringing attention to that 🙂
no problem
heyy I just brought my speaker back from the dead
to be quite hones i think there was a broken wire from the cone coil to the negative speaker post
all i did was take the speaker apart from the magnet and making shure i didnt puncture or tear the woofer and re-soldered a tine wire from the speaker coil to the negative post and put it back together
Huh, interesting, glad to hear you got it fixed!!
and it worked
A Successful Surgery