#Mister Pi Users
1 messages Ā· Page 4 of 1
that's funny, I have several MiSTer setups here and it works fine on all of them but the MiSTer Pi
Yeah multiplayer can go under 10fps sometimes lmao
are people expecting 007 to run at 60fps? š
I think thatās being generous
I can't suggest to ou guys enough that you use the turbo core, N64 performance was quite slow on the real hardware, the turbo core takes care of that mostly.
Yeah Turbo core is nice
We had multiple users report issues to the author of the core many years ago and he indicated he had no plans to fix it. Ask @cinder crane and @dire merlin etc ...
no but more like a 25 ish š 10 is very low š
I like the slowdown, it reminds me of actually playing the games when I was younger
I personally didn't have issues with it on my 3 misters though
Do the new core changes leave any issues for anyone?
I left my only board that can do this back at the office
I'm slow myself so I still prefer the og core. Gives me time to think.
I switch between the regular and turbo on some games, depending on how nostalgic I feel haha.
It might be a similar kind of fix @gritty herald simple phase shift.
You mean N64 ?
Yes
Once I was able to "properly" seat ram everything running as intended on stock and turbo core

Shifted core seems to be the solution
want to try it but can't find it š
the links have "No access" for me
only V.I.P.S.
my understanding the issue is a combination of ram quality and it overheating in some cases without proper ventilation.
...
N64 ran at 4k 120Fps with HDR ... i think i am remembering correctly
@tropic haven I think you need to give yourself the cycle accurate role or ask a mod for it
How does a FPGA overheat ? They are low power and frequency
Does the core hammer the HPS ?
Todd is just plugging his cases š
i am talking about the ram
Can you help me finding a mod and how to do that?
So much misinformation going around.
mine is my case and still does it
Correct. Back in 1996 we called it the "ps5 pro of 1996"
I gave you cycle accurate just now
so i think heat isn't an issue
Yeah I don't think overheating is the issue.
I have never seen any overheating issues in nearly 5 years ...
someone needs to make a rpi ice tower style cooler š
Liquid cooled mister case ftw
still no access š¦
@cinder crane
yeah maybe he restricted it now
I already gave them cycle accurate, try and close and open discord
Like fully quit it
Got a flight to catch!
just trying to be helpful and report issues
instead it gets dismissed as crap developer
Because the issues with that core has been known for years
I haven't seen anyone be disparaging at all. but there can be too many cooks in the kitchen too.
again, reporting issues that, on my real de10 setup, doesn't occur and MAYBE you guys with MiSTer Pi's can verify as well
Still same issue, have a good flight š will wait for 36 hours then š
Your case has no holes, were the hot air could get out near the Leds... š š
But the issue has been reported on DE10s in the past so it's no surprise it happens on the Taki board. If the issues were fixed then it would be something unique to the board
again, i've spoke to the team and their findings were that most all cases of issues with the core were due to the sdram overheatings. And in almost all those instances there were using the MiSTer Addons passively cooled case and the ram in that case just gets scorching hot with cores that really work it
is this the raizing core resets during bootup with bad rom issue or a different one?
once you took the MiSTer out of the case, the issue went away
it locks up or displays memory errors
SDram will not get warm i thought. But ddr3 will
Tried taking the Taki board out of the case ?
my open air de10 always fails the batrider B version Japan rom test. the other mras that are patched to skip it work though
I did not say that, to be completely clear. Just that the core already crashes, the developer was made aware, etc...
my Taki setup is doing this once the intro starts
What is that for an game, i could test it on my taki, if that helps?
Armed Police Batrider
just launch the game and let it roll through the attract mode
mine locks up with that in a few seconds
More tests?! Iāve been avoiding playing games all day!
play = testing š
also whoever it was that had issues with setting the outfoxxies font on mister, I hate you
I played that to completion yesterday (assuming that's not a console port of some kind) mister pi is not in a case, played at 1440p direct to a cheap 32" Sylvania led in my truck with a 12v 3a DC charger at hq2x filter didn't have any issues with game play, crashing, boot problems etc
I just booted Armed Police Batrider on my QMtech build and it works fine. So it's different to the N64 issue as that affected the QMtech too
Is this a jotego core?
no
No coin ops
Wasnāt the people with N64 problems in qmtech using old cores and thus unrelated to the issue?
Is coionops == pram0d?
I was using all the latest builds on my QMtech
I stand corrected
The QMtech board with built on SDram even using slightly different spec ram hence why it can be stable at 160mhz
no crash here (USA Version)
this is probably like some of the other ram issues reported where it's hit or miss
Maybe the developer just needs to revisit the ram sampling code
Yeah people report issues with this core but Iāve only seen the bad rom check issue. Thereās a bunch of mras so I just pick the next one down and it works (probably the skip check zakk mentioned but it actually shows it do the check so š¤·š¼āāļø ) Iāve never had the games crash after they get past boot
could be, my taki runs RE2 also fine without patched core.
Running fine on attract mode for my taki board
yeah, like the version of garegga with my patches is ok because it skips rom check, but the others fail
I never choose the Zakk one, I assume itās a bitcoin miner
I think there's always been something a bit on the edge. like my patches on garegga seem to cause the game start transition screen to take noticibly longer, but it doesn't do that on real hardware
Memtest is the actual bitcoin miner.

Good Evening Todd, sorry to bother you. Does that still happen with Mister pi and someone elses ram kit? Like a different vendor? If you dont have a different one then no bother š . Im just wondering if its the same quirk as that n64 core. Where a different ram would work fine on the Mister Pi.
the rank percentage is actually telling you how far along you are in mining one coin
I get all the way through attract mode without issue. I don't, however, have any sound coming out of the analog board - it's all hdmi
I know you have done a lot of testing. Wasnt it you who had a different vendor ram? If you have the time, maybe see what its like on the mister pi with that different ram.
Similar to who other vendors ram would "work fine" on the mister pi with the n64 core.
I can test that in a bit, yeah. But it's working fine with taki ram atm
I just thought there may be something similar going on.
Praise the lord š
okay yeah, Batrider both Japan B and USA will play through the attract mode and enter game fine for me
but i am a known good-RAM-haver
Batrider is one that should have come in with update all arcade downloader?
yes
it's Armed Police Batrider if you're having the problem i did in finding it by looking in the Bs
(and the JP version B is under _alternatives I believe)
You need to select what channels you can see/access from 'channels & roles' at the top of the channel list
Ok, I get a lot of crackling in r-type leo
all the bass is blown way out after "3 2 1 let's go!"
turned down volume to no avail
Kinda proves that the core has āmemory issuesā might not be true. And instead is a faulty ram issue
Are you using analog? or the toslink digital signal
I would see if someone like willuigi who couldnāt play anything n64 or @neon summit can get through attract mode on that
Also if you have other ram swap it and see if it works?
Iāll test other ram tonight. Plus maybe pull up on the ram some like Taki suggested on Twitter
No thatās not correct. The core doesnāt work well for me and my ram has been perfect for every single core. Same with a multitude of users whoāve had similar issues. Itās definitely a core issue.
If it were just me I wouldnāt care but Iāve had field questions from a lot of people over the past year whoāve had similar issues and every other works for them.
Then what explains the fact it works for all these other folks?
Because the memory timings is inconsistent
Right. With the memory itself
Yes and when the core isnāt within spec, it creates issues
Pretty easy to understand
What spec is it not in?
The one that makes it work for people lol
Explain to me why literally every other core works, even the most demanding Saturn core and this one doesnāt?
Itās cut and dry dude, core has issues
Again if it were just me I wouldnāt care but loads of people have had similar issues
I think itās more a case of hammering the ram to get the performance they need and marginal ram has issues
yeah out of spec
When itās the only core that doesnāt work, itās a problem
Literally the only core
I donāt have a clone either, I have official board and great ram
Itās a core issue that unfortunately wonāt be fixed. Which is a shame because itās a wonderful core.
I even posted a report on their GitHub along with several others, huge thread. But they moved repositories and it was deleted. So itās in the past. Itās a well known issue unfortunately.
Sorry normally I wouldnāt care but I had to correct you on that one.
I donāt want people thinking there are other hardware issues when itās an unofficial core thatās broken for a lot of people.
And working for a lot of people too. To be fair.
analog
yeah it's not so good for me either.
is it a coop collection core?
I wonder if I can poke them in their discord. I remember them mentioning something about raizing cores
Wonderful job by the devs, I just wish that was looked at again.
They donāt have a MiSTer and I wouldnāt bother them about it.
The core is what it is, theyāve moved on.
I reported a problem in the game gear core yesterday so there is no harm in trying
ahh, I see
I think they did a great job with it. So Iām not complaining. It just doesnāt work for me which is unfortunate.
But the games are on the Saturn so Iām happy.
oh it was pram0d who did it. they mentioned looking for their mister the other day so they could bring the combatribes to mister (they just released it on pocket)
yeah. it's not on pocket, and since that is the thrust of their development, maybe we can get a mister fix too if they pick it up
except i have 4 mister setups. all 3 no issue. 3 single ram. one dual ram. if i put ANY of my 2.9 or 3.0 kits in the MPi setup - works. Just the MPi ram fails. 100% of the time. NO other ram from any other manufacturer is failing the n64 core.
Iāve never seen glitches on the core but I assume he knows best
Sorry I was talking about the Raizing core
Nah itās cool, apologies for being confusing
i can't get the raizing core to flip on my tv. flips on my monitor just fine. monitor has a mister pi, tv has a mister - I wonder if the tink is gumming up the works there
That would be great. Itās a huge challenge for sure.
But Iād also understand if theyāre not interested
as an aside, works great as a side scrolling shooter too. just have to remap the direction controls
Like when I say itās in the past, I mean theyāve moved on from MiSTer which is their prerogative and great for them. So I didnāt want to bug them about something theyāre not developing for. You know?
But if theyāre interested that would be great. First time I played those games actually. MiSTer made me a shmup fan lol.
yeah, i wouldn't even bring it up to them if they hadn't mentioned (I think either today or yesterday) that they are looking for their mister so that they can look at porting combatribes
ok cool
Well even though I complained I really do love the Raizing core lol
Apologies for my harshness
its a good core. š
Yeah itās awesome!
now if raki can get cv1000 on the mister....then we could all die happy
whatās that?
the last cave board
you will say that a lot if Raki performs their witchcraft
i would also love to see this on pocket lol
Oh, followup. For those looking for a switch. This works and has excellent mouth button feel https://www.canakit.com/raspberry-pi-4-on-off-power-switch.html
Yeah but those of us with serious N64 issues can play the bat whatever core just fine. And N64 is fixed for all now anyways
lol sounds like I need to get a MiSTer Pi then
one of the things it's really great for. too bad i don't have a way to do true tate tho
you need a mister pi and a qmtech stack. we pokemasters now
Anyways sorry for shitting up yāallās chat.
not at all. you want to shit up chat? let me tell you about the retrotink 4k :p
I canāt be opinionated on that unfortunately
I got a free morph4k so Iām already biased
I need 1 Retrotink 4k mailed to my address and I can contribute to this conversation
you know, for the price of one PS5 Pro + tax, you too could have a retrotink4k
This is true. Let me tell my wife I canceled the PS5 Pro for some video box
How many PS5s do you have? How many retrotinks do you have? I feel like the math is very easy here
Thanks for making those patches so people are able to play the core!
I heard HDR plus BFI and some filters look quite good on an OLED
I still havenāt moved the mister down to the C1 since Iāve enjoyed playing memtest in the office during work
I am no scaler expert but I donāt really see that much of a difference lol. The fake HDR on the morph4k is way better than whatever we have on MiSTer though lol.
I assume the retro tink does the same fake HDR as good or better than morph4k.
i am not about to spend 750 smackers on either but if i got to choose one to get for free the ps5 pro would not even be in the mix š
I am not a playstation professional. it would be stolen valor
I know as much about the morph that you know about the tink. I'm sure they are both great. It's probably just a matter of depth of options
i am surprised i haven't really seen a super nitty gritty comparison
So I ignorantly thought that there wasnāt that much of a point since TVs upscale to 4K on their own but someone here educated me about the lag that can incur.
So thatās pretty cool, scalers really do offer a lot for people.
yeah I didn't realize how big of an impact the tv upscaler could have on latency
my current TV does 4K upscaling that looks much nicer than any previous display I've had but i probably should figure out how to test the lag, huh.....
Mr laggy?
hmm that's cheaper than i thought
what's one more $12 + S&H device on my retro gaming doodad stack
the mister has already proven dramatically better than this stupid PoS2 that I'm trying to get loading
and i have bought way more doodads for that
just a coincidence, those patches predate mister! you plebes are just lucky it happened to help!
I want this.
A similar change might help the batrider core
makes sense for sure
I would love to see a game com core
Does anyone actually own a game com? I do, it's in the attic. I got it as part of a bundle with Resident Evil 2 on the game com
Any particular version?
USA left and Japan right
My crappy Sony has twice the input lag for 1080p compared to 4K (40ms vs 20ms). Luckily the 1440p value is the same as 4K
I have so many SCART cables.
I have an oem scart cable fetish
Oooh nice. I mostly have RGC cables.
I did, I got it with Duke 3d when it came out
Ooh I didn't know Duke 3d is on the game com.
I really want a Game.com. I know itās not a great console but I remember wanting one as a kid based on screenshots in magazines.
it fucks stuff up those that rely on the n64s terrible performance for timing, like Zelda
As in using bugs or speedruns? If so, the turbo core is definitely not the way to go, but certainly for improved performance and a more modern feel.
Anyone else besides me have a MiSTer-Pi + Analog board and the main MiSTer menu doesn't display on a CRT? I have 2 PVMs and 1 PC CRT and the menu doesn't display but console cores do. I have tried numerous .ini edits and tried RGBs (4-BNC) cable, VGA cable, and VGA to component cable
Do you have a regular mister to swap the sd card into to try?
Post your ini
Not always accurate, ignore it for now, post your ini
Not at home now to do so. I have posted my ini before
And I have 3 separate .ini'
I'm not the only one with this issue
I had issues but the fix was a fresh .ini and re-doing my settings.
Now my mister pi is working on my consumer CRTs and my PVM
@rigid eagle Have you tried using the default ini from the repo?
Yes I got the official one and edited that
Did you try it before edits?
Yep
Did you try without any ini files (defaults from within the code).
Yes. I only see a picture in cores
Already added [menu]
Did you try starting from a fresh SD card with Mr Fusion?
Yes 2 different sd's
Okay, that probably rules out config issues then.
Are you using direct video / DAC or that 9.2 vga bridge deal?
No direct video. I have a full stack MiSTer-Pi. I was told to test direct video but that defeats the purpose of the Analog IO board
Yeah I wouldnāt bother with that either
Iād go the other direction if you were using an external dac and suggest eliminating that
@upbeat gyro btw how were you identifying the voltage/power draw of your mister? multimeter or
I'm just hoping to test if the usb-c power switch I bought is going to make any change. Though if I'm reading Taki's site correctly a switch that is limited to 5V 3A may actually end up as a benefit due to the voltage drop from 9V causing additional heat with PD
My Mister Pi and RT4K are currently using about 12 W combined.
this was the case for me
Intresting, I've got a MisterPi and get that when using the VGA on the analoge out to a Retrotink... Did you solve this?
@hushed burrow nope and no matter how I edit the ini, still no display on a CRT in the main MiSTer menu on 3 different CRTs
Yeah, exact same here, thats troubling
Which cable are you using, out of intrest
I just thought my cable was faulty, but now I wonder
well, I just plugged my Minster into a VGA montior and getting the exact same issue š¦
Yeah, and if I load a core.. i get a display. Sounds like its the exact same issue
wait, on what?
Armed Police Batrider, itās an arcade game
Yeah open it and see if it crashes during attract mode
I'll give it a shot
So far no one but Toddās had an issue and Robby said the core just sucks
But you were one of the most broken n64 soā¦.
It doesnāt lmao
itās an awesome core but there needs to be some adjustments on the sdram side of things
People have had issues in the past and for me specifically itās the only core that gives me trouble
But itās ok, those games are playable on the Saturn core so Iām happy.
batrider isn't!
Also those Raizing core games don't work on 24-bit IO boards
Framework never got updated
I think thatās the one you made a patch for conveniently for me lol
that explains why I wasn't getting sound out of the analog port
Is there a list wich cores are not compatible with the 24bit analog board?
I assume any that arenāt officially part of MiSTer.
I keep seeing this, but what does it mean that some cores donāt work with the 24bit analog board? They donāt display anything? Iāve yet to see that with the misteraddons analog io pro for cores that arenāt updated like raizing. The most Iāve had for issues is if I want to use svideo I still have to use the YC cores because coinop/pram0d havenāt merged MikeS changes
But maybe the 9.2 is somehow different in a way that they break instead when not updated? That doesnāt sound very sorg-like though
Yeah all cores display fine for me over HDMI
For me RGB they are fine, for svideo they are B&W without swapping to the MikeS YC version
Via CRT of course because Iām a good person and not an hdmi devil like robby
āItās easier for a camel to fit through the eye of a needle than an oled user to enter the kingdom of Godā - Jesus, probably
MA's pro board does have dip switches to change back to 18bit color mode, so maybe it has some stuff to allow some of that signal to come through in 24bit mode
Taki IO board is just a black screen, so there is probably 0 backwards compatibility
Takis is just the stock 9.2 design though
Yeah interesting wonder if someone with a 9.2 and de10 can confirm. Just unsorg-like to break compatibility. My dips are always on for MA for 24bit
The board was extra hold for some time to convert the cores to be compatible. But there was only a statement, that convert is done now. I saw never a statement, that not all cores were done. So it would be nice to have a list of not compaible cores.
The switches seems to bypass the dac introduced in 9.2, old analog board seems to have no dac installed in any way. Checked the pcb and could not found ones.
I think all Main cores have been done
Stuff from the likes of Coin-Ops are seperate
Jotego added support recently too
do we know if the steam deck power supply (official) works with Mister PI?
I'm seeing some weird display glitches
I believe that's the power supply on this page, no? https://retroremake.co/pages/firmware-setup
The "major linux handheld"
That's what I thought also
Display glitches where
I was on the main screen, but I was also transferring some files over SSH
once the transfer stopped looks like the image stabalized
You will get glitches on the display if you are doing stuff on the linux side
though normally its when you have the command prompt screen up
Yeah heavy transfer can cause glitches with normal de10 as well
Acrylic case form misterfpga UK looking so nice!
Any PD psu should work fine
Being PD mandates the minimum 5V3A that MiSTer Pi needs
i dont want to be a copycat so I havenāt purchased this⦠yet.
That acid green and smoke are also good...
Easy source for a heatsink and noctua made it feel like a no brainer
I really like that helios yellow, but the looking glass is so good lookingā¦
he uses Looking Glass as the main example image for a reason, looks sooooo good
like I have it in a lil skyscraper
Hopefully nobody will try to connect an USB device to the onboard USB-A of the MiSTer Pi when itās connected to a USB board
Oh really? Lol
What happened??
Since the usb data lines have resistors, I assume that no damage will be implied, but the HUB and the device will surely not work haha
nothing
I noticed if somethingwas plugged into it when power was applied that port worked and the hub never turned on
but if the hub was on already the port just didnt work
Nice!!!
Soon as I get my todd case itll be covered anyways
Make sure you use a binary speed data transfer mode when uploading files. It makes the read/write and MiSTer more stable
How do I enable this?
if you're actually using ssh it's not relevant
only relevant for filezilla
filezilla+FTP
Okay, yeah I don't like transferring over FTP, I stick to ssh all the time.
The fixed N64 core is now in update_all š„³
turbo still requires a manual download
what is this turbo core?
runs the n64 CPU at 80mhz and can improve framerates
#test-builds message
Winners donāt use drugs
Can confirm, the lookig glass is quite nice
I want to connect mt32-pi to mister pi, would that be a problem?
No, in fact, this beaut accomodates it #mister-hardware message
ooo nice, do I need to worry about the power supply or anything like that?
I read that some folks recommended upgrading the power supply for the OG mister
I would use the MT32 without on power supply only with a 5V4A on Mister
A good 3 amp PSU should be more than enough for MT32-pi powered by the user port
If you use a Zero 2 Pi you might get away with less
Mister Addons ram arrived today. Itās settled business, but you know I still had to do it.
gonna leave that ram in
But can it do 59 MHz?
Misteraddons ram
God himself cannot run at 59mhz. Why would you ask that of ram?
So youāre saying the ram canāt do 59 MHz? Haha
But how tall is it though?
you know, it's a little disappointing. I had to get out the small ruler
Ouch, how embarrassing
I just have to say, as a novice MiSTer user, I love that the NSO N64 gamepads sync pretty much instantly to the included wifi/bt dongle with hardly any input lag--and they instantly work when wired via USB as well
I avoid using the bluetooth connection, unless the controller has a dedicated receiver
I used to too but bt controllers seem to be the norm these days. DS4 also seems to work well enough on the mister. I have like a bag full of those for some reason despite me never really using one.
Same here, mostly because itās so prone to interference for some reason. A leg is enough to completely sever the signal. I prefer to relax with a cord than to be on edge about missing or having extended inputs due to bt. On consoles itās fine, but on MiSTer and my PC it has hardly been reliable
I agree, although ds4 gives.me pretty stable connection with MiSTer. At least to make it playable enough
I have had no real issues with controllers over BT and I have a soft spot for 8bitdo products
M30 is still a joy to use
did anyone install a heatsink on their MiSTer Pi? I just realized that it didnāt even occur to me š¤
debating if I should even bother to disassemble it and put one in
nice qc stickers
I've ordered one but it shouldn't really make a difference
i've read there's some cores that can become a little more unstable without some form of cooling
but dunno if thats true
@nimble nest yeah, common knowledge has always been to install a heatsink, a fan or both. I have the I/O board, so I do have a fan at least. My regular DE-10 has both a fan and a heatsink, so Iām thinking Iāll probably just put one on the MPi too
I don't see why not even if it wasn't exactly necessary.
https://misteraddons.com/blogs/news/is-it-pronounced-aluminum-or-aluminium this may be outdated now though
Yep! I did install it even though it doesnāt seem to be necessary with the fan. Just for the peace of mind sake and why not? š
This is the one I ended up getting https://a.co/d/hxTEUbs
the one i use is one that i scavenged from an old computer
this is just the max temp at which the silicone might degrade over some period of time afaik, but instabilities can occur well below the max temp
no idea what temp though
and if it's a real concern
hmm, I have some leftover 22x22x10mm ones back from when I put one on my original MiSTerā¦Iād think it should work? I think the standoff heights are the same š¤
Should work just fine! Before actually sticking it to the FPGA, try it with the IO board mounted to see it it touches anything, but I donāt think itās going to happen
for my franken heatsink i had to remove one fan screw
Yeah, I was afraid of something like that and I just got the 6mm tall one
I used an extra one from a de10 build that I replaced with a MA aluminum case. Fit exactly
The DE10-nano is designed to be run by idiot students fanless and heatsinkless, and IIRC has a stable temp of 105C. The MiSTer Pi is using an automotive part which is even higher rated; and thatās binned chips not different production runs. Basically as long as you have some airflow youāre fine; if you get a solid case then fan at least.
Students do not use a stack neither a case with the DE10. So Heatsink and fan is recommend in such situations.
Yes, thatās what I said
The heatsink and fan was added because if something hammers the HPC side, the heat might affect the FPGA but its a very edge case situation. The Cyclones were designed to run with no additional cooling
I dont think the Pi uses the automotive model ? The QMtech does though
Oh is it that way around? I have neither
I think so
Itāll probably change depending what chips are cheaper any given purchase cycle too
yeah it doesnt matter
Taki uses the 5CSXFC6C6U23I7N. This is the Industrial model good for -40C to 100C.
QMTech uses the 5CSEMA6U23A7N which is indeed the Automotive spec.
I think it was mentioned in the video by Whats Ken making on Youtube
should be pretty good for racing games then
holds a microphone up to the fpga chip
@gritty herald search is failing me. When do cases start shipping?
sometime during the first week of October
shit, meant October
Consolized ITX MiSTer Pi build is alive. The inside is a complete mess, there's no back plate either and I don't seem to have the front ports wired up properly but its working good enough to play with for now. The power button on the front works and lights up which I think is a nice QoL feature.
I like the "totally not optiplex" look they got going on with the case.
very nicely executed imo
awesome - I'm working on something similar and my library offers 3D print services. Was able to find an ITX mounting bracket and this IO panel:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4982578/files
worth a check to see if your library offers 3D printing
This is the rear io panel that I used with this case...https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HCCTMNZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1to build a MiSTer FPGA in a console form factor.I used 100% infillBuild video here...https://youtu.be/DP_01EUOKJs
Ah cool looks good. I've got my own 3D printer, annoyingly my local library only offers 3D printing to people aged between 13-18
For mounting I've got it on an Atlantis board https://battyetech.com/products/atlantis-for-mister-fpga-adapter-board-for-mini-itx-atx-and-compatible-at-pc-cases
ATLANTIS for MiSTer is a carrier board and adapterĀ allowing you to install your MiSTer FGPA (DE10-Nano) or Raspberry Pi in any PC case includingĀ Thin Mini-ITX, mATX and all the way up to ATXĀ and compatible AT PC cases. Designed to simplifyĀ powering and housing your MiSTer FPGA ATLANTIS for MiSTer can be used to simply
Fodder for this subreddit for sure! https://www.reddit.com/r/SleepingOptiplex/
Ahh balls. I picked upa. in-line power switch from the Pi store for the mister, ant it doesnt work
yeah i just had one arrive and same lol
though I've just tried it with my pi 4 psu which is 5v 3a only and it works
the canakit one I bought works good
good button feel too
I've got the same thing and I've never been able to find anything that it works with. At this point I'm not convinced they work at all.
at least the heatsink i bought works right 
does anyone knows where do i change the order of how the scripts are loaded?
the installed ones
I donāt think any of them are autoloaded?
i am trying to get tapto and tty2oled to play nice together
i can run one or the other
but as soon i plug the tapto the tty2oled breaks
Startup scripts for services should be in /etc/init.d
You can change the order by modifying the number
i found this in user-startup.sh
#!/bin/sh
Startup tty2oled
[[ -e /media/fat/tty2oled/S60tty2oled ]] && /media/fat/tty2oled/S60tty2oled $1
mrext/tapto
[[ -e /media/fat/Scripts/tapto.sh ]] && /media/fat/Scripts/tapto.sh -service $1
i managed to make them play nice tapto and tty2oled just added TTYDEV="/dev/ttyUSB1" in tty2oled-user.ini
not sure if it's intentional but the video (at least for me) quits at 4:22 when you are explaining about nailing down the slicer settings
Damn. I must have cut off the last couple seconds the exported video
Case is looking great
that fucking blue, todd. can't wait, man
(i had no idea those two ports were power only)
and yeah, it cuts out at the slicer settings
Amazing!!!
Really that was about the end anyways. Iāve just spent some time this week implementing these changes and printing off new samples to nail down everything
really looks great
I do not remember the color of the buttons I have ordered haha
Blue is really looking good
All cases come with 2 colors
Light gray comes with purple and dark gray. Slate gray comes with orange and blue
Whoa!
And black with gray and orange
Might include a single red one with each in case folks want to use the red button for reset
Thatās great news!!!
Canāt wait, guys at work want to see it but itās not leaving the house till I have a case.. I also decided I need to buy a printer lol
i want a cool case for the qmtech... no one cares about us...
i got antonio's analog board which comes with a case, but the sides of it are white fr4 which is the only thing im not too fond of
Iāve had someone ask about that
the io board comes with a case
Looking at the Bambu A1. Seems like a killer starter unit
A1 and A1 mini are both class leaders
videotodd: i left off any text here because of how it prints at that size
me: hmm he should've tried single letters
videotodd: I also tried single letters
you're three steps ahead of me š
@gritty herald maybe try text on top and bottom of the buttons?
So left and right button has text on top and middle has text belowā¦
if you do do this i will probably at least experiment with doing purple - dark grey - red for the three buttons
I might try that and then put up a poll for peopleās opinions
If it turns out ok
Yeah A1 seems like an absolute no brainer for $400. Mini looks awesome too but bigger is always better lol
Iāve been meaning to pick up a mini sometime for my office for prototyping
I had a guy down the street with a print farm full of X1Cās that would run shit off cheap for me⦠then he moved across the country. Itās time to be a big boy lol
Move in next to him
Iām selling it to my wife that I can print stuff for our daughter and cookie cutters for her š
I canāt afford to move to CA lol
Yeah my farm has several X1C, 3x P1Ss and a P1P
Have 6 retired Prusa machines in storage
I would not recommend an open printer ik your office due to micro plastics in the air
The supplied PCB material case is fine especially for the price
Yeah Bambu printers have really changed the market
I've had a P1P for nearly 2 years now and it's made FDM printing reliable and quick, they have made the printer a tool rather than a hobby
The A series were not available at the time sadly
Before that I had a couple of Creality and even a Prusa mini that got returned due to faults out of the box
the qmtech one looks cool imo
but i dont have the qmtech analog board
i have antonio's one
maybe i can model the sides and just laser cut them from acrylic
Having spend a lto fo time with things like Enders and the like.... I'll be 100% honest with you
Get a bambu. Either the P1S/P1P/A1 or something.
Just... just do that.
If your hobby is going to be 3d Printing, not a 3d Printer get a Bambu š
Hmm, I'll have to test sonic 3 I guess but with the PS1 core and some brief testing yesterday things sounded okay
I definitely don't have the muffled sound issue with my MiSTer Pi megapack through analog audio
Seems like it's not everyone.
But Iāve got audio crackles with the PSX core that seems to be fixed by a test version of the core (if you are curious check the #1046940919607345272 channel)
Could anyone provide a direct recording of this crackle? I'm curious
#1287682359658807317 message
Antonio's case is decent
yeah but i dont like the white sides :(
interestingā¦.if itās a capacitor issue like they say, then shouldnāt it affect everyone?
Maybe a bad batch?
yeah could be
Honestly maybe? It's the same with that ram issue. There was a good chunk of people that didn't have any issues with the mister pi ram and mister pi.
The only thing I can think off is some slight variance when they were being made.
Taki wanted pics of the top board of crackly ones to ID the batch
oh yeah thatās right
just was curious to me as to whether maybe some batches actually had different capacitors
He implied that to be the case, in a reply to a report of wrong value caps on one. And then asked for the pics to ID the batch š
Yeah I saw a post elsewhere claiming the caps were wrong and causing audio issues for them. In an angry and dramatic way. Chill dude maybe you need some caps to smooth out your attitude
People love to cause drama
F. Iām not shipping shit back to Hong Kong tho
Guess I need to find some caps š¤Ŗ
The only thing I would like is slightly better communication. There wasn't any communication when the N64 testing with the ram was happening, and we still don't know when batch 2 drops. (In 5 days).
I'm hoping I can get one in batch 2. But I need to know the time.
#1096015979055697940 message
That's the only response I got in regards to a time.
Oh yeah not saying people shouldnāt be constructively critical or return things for sure. Just the ones having a an online fit should take a step back. Itās new budget hardware thereās going to be issues to work out. Even big companies screw this stuff up
I think they made a poll in Twitter about having a sane prereserve system or having thousands of people trying to buy the product at the same time like if another pandemia hitted us and people chose the second?
If that Ultimate Mister QMtech bundle for 200 euros releases soon, I might pick that one up instead. The only issue I saw with QMtech was N64 not working due to an older core or something. Once updated it was fine.
no analog outputs on that one
other than that it is sexy as hell in that case with the TapTo
I remember seeing a poll, but the pre orders/reserve didn't win.
I did briefly mention it to Taki too. And he said that option lost.
Yeah, I only need Digital Out.
But that QMtech, I haven't seen any major or even minor issues bar N64 needing to be updated.
I need analog video and digital audio, that is why I won't go with the ultimate mister bundle.
But I still think it is the best looking Mister I've seen
I'd appreciate some transparency if there are affected batches. Wrong caps on the av board and "wrong" caps on the sdram module doesn't feel great. Besides the N64 core issue I had though I've not identified any other issues with my own setup
Thanks. I definitely didn't hear anything like that while monitoring with some earpods yesterday. SCART lead should arrive in the next week though for testing with video on my CRT but I assume it'll not make a difference
Taki should send out replacements for the affected dac modules. Shipping back is more as the worth of the item.
Hey what psu is ok for the mister pi?afraid of overheating
https://retroremake.co/pages/firmware-setup check the bottom of the page. You shouldn't need to worry about overheating though
My C14/C15 caps look pretty thin
And they look hand soldered for some reason
Like those are def hand soldered⦠no?
Wonder if the factory messed up and forgot to add them in the production run, so some kid was sat down with a pile of nondescript ceramic caps and a soldering iron
The QMtech board and IO/USB board direct is cheaper
I don't believe the Ultimate one has analogue video output so you would have to use Direct Video
I tried soldering once and failed so I ain't an expert.
But if I was to guess they don't look soldered by a machine. Id have thought if a machine was soldering the joints etc, the solder point would be consistent. Like a similar size
Yeah, that could be an idea.
Yeah all the others look machine soldered
But 14/15 look hand soldered
Like someone knew there was an issue with the caps
14 and 15. I wonder if that's the same caps someone replaced in that Reddit post
One monento
I think Ricardo covered this on the forum
Yeah, just saw
@neon summit thx
Oh yeah
btw so are takis mister pi packages shitty quality?wwould u guys recommend to wait or buy from other store? cuase i wanted to buy a mister from taki in the next days. if someone can give me a few tipps or advice i would be really thankful
The plot thickens
There doesn't seem to be any issues with the main board, just some of the add ons
I can't find any issues with the QMtech board. For the money it does the job just as good as my DE10 build
these are kind of v1 issues. they may be sorted out by the next batch. how are you planning on using it? Like, if you have it connected to a TV via HDMI, you likely won't notice any of these issues
And in some ways it's better as they have fixed the CEC so plays nicely with my soundbar and ARC on the TV unlike the DE10
Not shitty or anything. For me the lack of communication and transparency on issues slightly puts me off. I do want to get one in batch 2. But he hasn't given us a time on when they will drop.
There was a lot of buzz from the community trying to find and fix the N64 core crashing issue. But Taki didn't really communicate much. Only afterwards.
Now we have this issue with the analog board's. I plan on just using digital out but I would like to make sure the whole product would work.
i dont like taki he never really interact with the community . i think its the first week of october for the release
Yeah October 8th. But no time
my digital out is funky. waiting to hear back from taki
oh ok thx
Oh no
I do like how it comes with a year warranty though. A bit of a peace of mind. Some time to test.
im playin on a pi 4 with an rgb dual hat on crt and its awesome.its like zero lag with the preemetive frames feature in retroarch.i wanna try a mister but now im afraid i will have problems with the nano board. shit :/
That's the post from days ago, which Taki's already responded to as I mentioned here an hour or two back
Yeah it was
Some of the issues might me due to the open source schematics which I believe Ricardo has mentioned in the past and they just followed them
Rather than testing and finding the right ratings ?
The QMtech USB/IO board is 6.1 based so it's more tried and tested now
yeah, 100% sure
no doubt
all is done with solder paste, those 2 caps are done with solder wire. maybe even leaded...
obviously doesn't matter if it's one or the other
but it does indicate something's been done post production
It would be intriguing if this was āfixedā by hand and some just got sent as is cause fuck it
can also see some residue flux
maybe the issue was noticed only after some time, or maybe there's another reason behind it, who knows
ok just hooked up to analog audio... gonna see whats what
I did notice using the 3.5mm had a lot of hum/buzz on it, but should try it with 3.5mm headphones or something
Mine doesnāt seem to be muffled
Iām interested to see peoples C14/15 capacitors that are having problems
I'll measure mine when I get home. Output seemed fine last night
I bought that dac toya/sk linked to test my optical out (which has been super crunchy)
should be here today
I would buy it again. Things can happen and i am sure if there was some faults, it would be sorted out for the next batch. I personally would prefer a board with only new components on it and not an board with an recycled fpga chip (Qmtech).
I think step 1 is are yours hand soldered
lol
at this point we have probably heard back from a large number of purchasers and the only widespread issues are the n64 ram thing (resolved via software) and now this audio issue. i would not call it a super high risk to buy in future batches at least.
Taki said "a very small group of people" have been affected by the audio issue. #1287682359658807317 message
And TBF, the SDRAM capacitor design Taki used is per the official schematics. Very strictly speaking, you might be able to argue that other vendors using different caps than shown without documenting the change have violated the GPL by not publishing those changes. Again, very strictly speaking.
I have inspected my Dac board now. Seems also that C14 and C15 was corrected from hand on my board.
Same here
same for me. i cant notice any crackle or muffled audio coming out of the 3.5mm audio jack though, and im using quite sensitive headphones
I was testing the intro to parasite eve
Yeah, not all users are getting the audio crackle
Had to turn down the global volume to only 3 bars to get a good listening volume, that might have something to do with it, ill have to try at full volume later with my speaker setup.
I have a class A amp, and a A/B DAC, that should reveal any unwanted noise
Same again
so everyone with hand soldered don't have muffled audio?
anyone with muffled we need you to check
I have my HDMI audio running through my monitor and out to my speakers, I have my mister pi connected to the aux in on my computer speakers
so I have been able to swap back and forth pretty easy
seems the sameish
Mine is hand soldered. No muffled audio. I get audio crackling on the PSX core via 3.5mm analog output though
parasite eve into is the best test?
dunno if you can tell from this pic, but i have muffled audio
(that's the pic I sent taki - my stack is not dissassembled right now)
they seem hand soldered
humm
C14 looks crooked from here which leads me to believe theyre hand soldered
we have not seen anyone with non hand soldered c14/15 right
Could you do a better pic from the dac board ?
Yeah, I can pull it apart again later today. That's just the pic I have now
Waiting for this dac to come so I can run some tests on that
Replacement Board ?
nah, I bought a dac that toya linked in the psx channel. i think my dac is fine, but I want to confirm that to make sure the muffled audio isn't something on my end
Ahh, ok. Could be interesting to see.
Just tested the 3.5mm here and it sounds grand is it a specific core or?
MegaCD and PSX are the ones to try.
hmm... ok, was trying it with the Megadrive core for Sonic 1 and it sounded grand, but I'll check PSX
If you have the Irem-m92 core, try R-Type Leo. That crackled like crazy for me (PSX was fine)
Isnāt muffled audio just an inherent flaw and not a manufacturing defect? Like the DAC just isnāt that good.
Getting an external DAC solved it for me.
Hi Robert, I'm trying to make sense of this change in Quartus, and I see that the previous phase shift was 0 degrees, and not 180. How was the shift from 0 to 180 done in the previous versions?
Is the Burr-Brown chip in the photos above the audio DAC? They make good op amps. Would be very surprised if they make a bad DAC.
PSX core also sounds fine, like its not as nice as the output of my DAC but its.. 'fine' doesnt sound terribly muffled or crackly or anything
my digital audio is bad - fine out of HDMI, but not the optical port
I dont seem to have the lrem-m92 core, I guess thats not inlcuded in update)_all?\
Check to see if you have GunForce II in your arcade game list
I picked that one randomly, In the Hunt, Gun Force 1, Ninja Baseball Bat man, etc. are all good choices
The core itself should be in _Arcade\cores
I use update_all and it's there (version from may)
yeaI can see Gunforce 2 at least, I think I have a names.txt that might be altering things
Run it
okay, ... I think it sounds okay?
ok cool, you have the core
What @limpid lodge is correct. Arcade cores are saved to "_Arcade/cores" but unlike the console cores, you don't ever run those.
You run the MRA files. Which are all the games listed in "_Arcade"
So with the arcade all you need to care about is running the MRA and making sure you have the right rom in "games/mame"
there is a toggle in update all to download the arcade roms as well
I think it sounds fine? there is the rare ittle 'pop' but...
I geuess mine is one of the good ones š
Ohhh. Yeah, that's not good. Sorry!
previously it was using a DDR IO FF, you can still find it commented out at the bottom of the sdram module
DDRIO has the advantage of having always exactly the same shift/delay over multiple builds, because it's location is fixed next to the pin, so there could be no different routing
well, until we learned that boards can differ and then fixed inside the FPGA isn't good enough anymore š
So after reseating everything (from the last time I pulled it apart) it sounds..fine?...now?
i believe i see it now. the SDRAM_CLK is being assigned directly to output 3 of the fPLL now. thank you!
i tested sound again, guess my module has the right caps. also learned that plugging headphones directly into the io board is a pretty cool way to play
here's my board with the wrong caps. I've since replaced them and it works fine now
Oh those caps look tall and not hand soldered
Mine are pretty thin
So assuming I have good ones
So my question is if some are hand soldered with right caps and some are wrong and not hand solderedā¦. Who knew there was a problem and let them go out
I'm a novice Mister Pi owner, just stumbled onto this. Should I plug headphones into the 3.5mm jack, while otherwise playing through hdmi, and test Parasite Eve on ps1 to confirm? Do I need a vga cable?
Or do I need to learn how to solder......?
If you have an issue email support, taki has already said if your board is affected they will rma it
I meant to test
the first step i would suggest is to check the underside of the right angled pcb. c14 and c15
What am I looking for, I don't understand capacitors and the like
awesome thank you
I hope some poor individual wasn't tasked with hand soldering thousands of these š
Looks like my board is in the clear on that issue, yay
.....though I still wonder if my n64 core is indeed slower than it's supposed to be. I'd love to have a default MiSTer side by side to test. I'm very sensitive to frame rates and have tested n64 games since the 90s, I really do feel like sometimes it's even slower on here than it's supposed to be.
Unlikely
would that I could, I'd set both hw up and run identical tests + frame rate analysis through my PC to be sure
They were shipped in batches and could be that some were shipped before the error was caught.
Hmmm. Mine has the tall caps and muffled analogue audio. I can replace them. What should values be?
if you really want to replace the caps instead of returning they are 2.2nF
Thanks! Found the reddit thread that mentioned the values too.
I replaced mine and it works good. having to return and waiting just for two little caps, i'll take the risk
Yeah, thereās no way Iām returning it just for two caps.
no cap fr fr
Yeah I woulda replaced mine. Iām def not shipping anything to Hong Kong
hey if you figure it out, itād be a great service to the community at large 
that said, I guess I could technically do it too, I just donāt know how to go about scientifically comparing things
Iām sure someone around here has done this with a fair number of games already, though (I canāt remember for sure)
FWIW mine was part of a group that was recalled from the carrier and reshipped and has the short, hand-soldered caps.
Ah, so maybe the caps were what the whole "recalled from the carrier" thing was about? They got some back but it was too late for others?
nothing "scientific," just find a sequence that's repeatable in a particular n64 game (the fly-over intro in Perfect Dark m01 is good), use some kind of HDMI capture device, and record the same 60-90 seconds with the frame rate counter turned on, whether using the standard n64 core or the turbo one
the overkill version is to take your raw capture and run it through frame rate analysis tools but MiSTER's built-in FPS counter would probably be solid enough to tell us whether there's an FPS difference beyond margin of error
I have done that with some games: Mario64 intro, 1080 attract first level and banjo tooie attract ingame: in all cases the core was slightly too fast. Worst was 1080. Cannot remember the exact values but i did post them some time ago, but like 1 second over 1:30, so around 1% faster than it should be. As the TLB solution in the core is slower than with a real n64 to make it possible at all, it could be different for games that heavily use TLB like perfect dark, but i doubt it as the n64 performance and framerate is nearly never CPU bound
@stuck tulip that's a heckuva test run, do you mean you tested Mister Pi compared to a "standard" Mister?
or a Mister Pi compared to native N64 hardware? that's my question, whether Mister Pi is showing different results than standard Mister
but comparing the new board to a default N64 also works
additionally it's not about timings but about FPS that I'm interested in testing
I may just borrow a friend's standard Mister and run some tests of my own, he just happens to be inundated in childcare so I'm not planning to interrupt him with my nerdy requests lol
@rotund parrot pretty sure Robert is saying he compared a standard MiSTer to real hardware
Like heād be caught dead with a Mr Pi. The scandal! š
Is that Mr Pi's lipstick on your collar?!
mister pi has same speed as normal de10-nano. VGE has already run tests. My tests have been core vs original hw with hdmi mod
yuck Sega CD is a poppy mess over analog audio
oh boy!
But testing is the best part!
if we didnt test what would we do
finally rest
sounds normal to me. what game were you testing?
i'll have to try that. snatcher seemed just fine at least
was the rom compressed at all?
I donāt think so
I had to disassemble my mister because of the rtc and my caps were hand soldered
I used toslink anyways
I'm using Toslink, but y'all got me paranoid about checking lol
My scart lead arrived, doesn't seem to be any issues with the analog video output
any place to find good info about Samsung CRTs? I'm looking a local ad for one but can't find %&*$# about it
ah, found it
This is probably what you found, but in case you didnāt https://www.crtdatabase.com
actually not, that site is great but heavily focused on US models
ok, let's play local ads lotery a little more. I have a Trinitron being serviced because image was too wide, now I'm going for two Samsung flat CRTs to see if I can get them working OK. I will keep one and see if the regional videogame museum will care for giving a home to the other two
oh #%*^& I'm such a boomer, I saw @neon summit gorgeous TV and I thought I was writing on the CRT channel š¤¦
I will pick up nearly any CRT if it's cheap and 14"
Don't have room for anything bigger
Old 14" are more like 15" in TFT...
We arent supposed to change any of the switches on the MiSTer Pi are we???
Nope
I cant remember what it was used for. Maybe dual ram or digital io. Been a while since I built a MiSTer
So far the MiSTer Pi is working great for me. Indistinguishable from my other MiSTer setup. Any tests I should run or games to test? I tested Jet Force Gemini on the new N64 unstable core and it seems to run great.
uh, the stable core should be the same now. unless you mean the turbo one
hooray, my mister survived the flood
anybody tried the mt32-pi on the mister pi?
I'm not sure if I'm doing something wrong, but it doesn't seem to be working
So is the Mister Pi compatible with the Mister Addons Analog IO Pro?
I believe it is
The GPIOs and Arduino headers are the same so should work fine
@strong falcon second batch wen
Supposed to be the 8th of October. (2 days away). I have been asking about what time they will drop but not got a response from Taki.
I read somewhere here that one usb-a port on the Pi is best not to be used as it might damage the board, is that correct?
@penny
There is no need to use it if you have the USB board
I have the usb board, but I want to make sure no one can accidentally use it. So might block it with a dummy rubber usb thing
I cant see any reason why using it would cause issues when the USB board is attached unless its a high drain device....
Someone tried that already. See this #1287682359658807317 message
isn't that just a usb a where the micro usb otg port is on the de10-nano?
Mostly pebcak
Regarding the issues, I think especially for the ram (RE2 N64 crashing). The schematics that was online were old or something.
Regarding the analog board (static/issues with audio). I don't know.
My main concern with the project is just the lack of communication. 2 days away from batch 2 and we haven't had a confirmed time of drop.
Il still try and get one on the 8th. Il keep checking the website. But without the time of drop and how fast batch 1 sold out. I don't think il be able to buy one.
Meaning il just buy the Qmtech board instead. As I don't recall any issues being present on that board.
#1096015979055697940 message
That's the only response I got to the Batch 2 time.
Why does he have to stay awake? Itās an online store!
Penny csn u give me a link for the qmtech?
I heard when u have something in the cart now then its save and u can use paypal instead of shitty creditcards
Just found this amazing item on AliExpress. Check it out! $131.20 | QMTECH Intel Altera CycloneV Cyclone V SoC FPGA 5CSEMA6U23 Development Board
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mtr81yy
Thatās the version with SDRAM onboard
Out of stock though
Oh nice .im new to mister . If i buy that what is the rest iwould need from takis store?
Nothing from takis store, you would get the IO board from QM tech
Same aliexpress store
The cap values were manufactured as the schematic outlined, some other sdram module suppliers were modifying these values. The N64 core has been adjusted to compensate for these "early" Taki Udon sdram modules and I've yet to experience a core that doesn't work now. I would be interested to know if modifying the caps on a Taki module did make a difference though.
The AV board issue was due to two caps that were apparently manufactured with the wrong values and hand corrected later. The majority seems to have been corrected but some slipped through that weren't.
That's about it off the top of my head. As for communication there's a national holiday until the 8th. I wouldn't expect any communication until then
@weary rain oh ok i thought everything is compatible with takis hardware?
I actually don't have the link, but thankfully Bootsector does.
Thank you for explaining š
Well... QM tech stuff is only compatible with other QM stuff
Yeah, I'm not sure.
A simple countdown on the store would just be amazing.
The N64 issue even affected some DE10s but was a edge case thing, on Taki and QMtech boards it was more consistent
The IO board issues are just one of those things and are being resolved
Not really the GPIOs are the same the only difference is the Arduino pins have changed location
Both Takis and QMtech are just compatible boards, compatible with the framework and cores
Both use different PCB designs compared to the DE10
Aren't the gpios inverted as well?
Making it pretty much incompatible with any de-10 stuff apart from like the RTC module, SNAC, and sdram?
If you get the QMtech with the built on SDram. The stock 6.1 board works minus SNAC
Antonios MiSTerX for QMtech is his DE10 board with a simple conversion board for the Arduino pins
Only the QMtech without SDram has an inverted header which is used for the SDram
I thought the N64 issue didn't affect QMtech boards? The only time I saw people having issues with the core on QMtech, they just had to update there Mister. (Before the tweaked core was released).
I remember trying to find people who said they had the crashes when the tweaked core was released. But it seemed that they didn't need it.
No it affected them too.
I have one with built on SDram and had the same issues with the likes of Conker
The fixed core works fine but the QMtech with SDram uses slightly different spec memory which is why it's stable at 160mhz
Ahh I see
My QMTech I/O Board comes today. I guess Iāll justā¦look at it
put the fan on it
all the fun stuff
I'd be interested to know if modifying the caps on a Taki module make a difference as well. For science. My hunch is that it doesn't, and that the real cause of the difference comes down to different trace lengths on the PCB. But we won't know until somebody busts out a soldering iron and runs a test against the older version of the N64 core.
I thought the caps were sound related
oooooh another memtest session you lucky man
i see, thanks
Canāt without the main board. Should be back in stock soon
Did you have any luck? I just tested mine from MiSTerAddons and it makes the MiSTer Pi get stuck in a reboot loop. Interestingly it seems to work fine on my Retrocastle DE-10 MiSTer build
Let me try to add a power supply and see if it helps.
Been a long time since I messed with mt32 but definitely it would work off mister power with a 3A supply. The only issue I had was my cheapo toggle switch causes enough voltage drop it would cause issues for the mt32pi
You can hit a switch on it I believe and power on it own as an option
I had to try several short usb cables too before I found one that worked
Anyway that was several years ago
So maybe Iām misremembering
Im using a 3A triad that i bought for my retrocastle setup. That one was giving me all kinds of wifi issues because it didnāt have enough power
Let me try the extra power adapter on the Pi 2W and see if that helps
Do you mean the inline toggle switches you can buy for power supplies? Because I am using one of those. Will try without it too and see if it helps
Yes, it was all user error, haha. I used the setup script and realized I needed to plug the mt32pi into the serial usb on the mister and not the io board
Do i need to add cooling to the pi3B ?
In-line power switch was the culprit. Once I removed that, the MiSTer Pi worked fine with the MT-32. Thank you again for your help!!!!
Hopefully as we sort out all these small issues, it gives folks confidence that the MiSTer Pi works fine.
Yeah the dual barrel jack one but the same idea
You wouldnt think there would be enough inside those things to cause such a big voltage drop.
I havent tested it on a meter, so take that fwiw
The one misteraddons sold was fine but the Ali express or random Amazon ones had voltage drop
Ah good to know. Maybe Ill pick one of those up. Mine came from Amazon
Well this was for DC barrel jacks not sure what if anything he has for usb-c
Glad to hear it was pebcak as usual š
I think Iāve heard that the megapack supplied usb-c cable is crappy too?
I havenāt used it as my PSU is already usb-c
I've got one that looks pretty much the same as that from Amazon and I'm surprised your MiSTer Pi worked at all. Almost all of the inline usb-c switches out there are hot garbage except for perhaps the canakit one
if the ram issue would have affected the DE10-Nano at all, we would have seen it in the past year, because the memory interface is the same for over 1 year now in the core.
And that includes all kind of ram modules that existed in the wild.
So something is different for sure with those newer boards or modules or both
Has anyone actually confirmed the claim about the ram schematics being wrong? That means every vendor (MA, legacypixels, ultimate, antonio, many other china clones etc) were all using their own values but none had the issue? Thats possible I guess but a little hard to believe
I guess itās limited to certain N64 games other than in extreme circumstances like speedlolita so maybe just not that many people ran the more troublesome titles
The capacitors are allegedly different in the modules sold by most vendors if compared to the official schematics
Or whatever @wary turret just said
well that's disappointing, i have that switch too
Did anyone figure out a solution to the crackling audio on the headphone jack??? Believe most folks used to do the digital audio mod on the DE-10
I just vaguely remember some people having issues with Conker on the DE10 but this was was some time ago and possibly a different reason, so my mistake.
Thanks for the clarification
Itās likely a I/o board defect
#1287682359658807317 message
some of us inspected our av boards and noticed that C14 and C15 on the L shaped board had been hand soldered, to suggest a correction
Ah ok, let me check mine
mine looks like this, for example
Mine were hand soldered. It started working after I reseated it
But I was getting static in r-type Leo before that
Mine look hand soldered too suggesting the fix was already made. Maybe Iāll try a few more cables and see if any of those clear it up
Ok I removed it and reseated so Ill test again
Is the link activity light on the ethernet port supposed to work?
And that fixed my crackling audio. Just had to reseat the analog av card on the mister pi.
Itās been a very productive troubleshooting day so thank you all!!! So far all features of MiSTer Pi are working for me. Just need to test Sinden light gun and that will be it
weird that reseating fixes it lol
@delicate hazel any news?
Honestly weird that it happened twice. I thought it was just me being bad at putting it togetherā¦
On the time batch 2 will release? Nothing.
@faint dune You feel like some testing? Haha
I am not at home. Depends on how much time I have today
Remember I donāt have taki ram in the mister pi anymore
If you have an ethernet connection handy, mind seeing if your activity light on the ethernet port works?
When you get home I mean.
Sure
Thanks!
Wait so reseating the board was actually the fix to the crackling audio and not the test PSX core? I gotta test it again (I had to reseat the board because Taki asked for pictures)
I never had crackling in psx. I had it in rtype Leo and my optical port was muffled
I never had it muffled
That was the fix for me at least
I was testing with Chrono Cross. Before reseating, I experienced quite a bit of crackling in the audio
I never tried the test core
If you're missing all the testing on the Mister Pi you could fire up the PCXT core and see if it works for you: #mister-hardware message
Works fine on my MisterAddon's but won't fire up on Mister Pi #mister-hardware message
Sinden light gun works perfectly
Im not very familiar with the PCXT core and dont have any files to run. When I started the core, I got the same splash screen that you go in your other thread, but I dont really know what to do beyond that
Maybe someone else can test who uses that core more regularly
decided to get a smart plug if the usb-c power switch causes such an drop to the current. just the case to go and I think I'll be happy with the setup, thinking i'll grab one off of misterfpga instead of the taki one - it looked pretty low quality even if its free for batch 1 purchases
Okay mine does the same. Only the green LED lights up.
Odd, wonder if itās just not wired up or if itās a software things.
Thanks for checking!
Only green for me too.
Thanks for checking!
Has anyone get a feedback for the cases from batch one? Shop has now an other colored case listed, but no information about the green ones. Support seems in holidays now.
the orange light will come up if you are using a 100Mb connection. green = Gigabit @lyric gull
Curious there generally should be two lights. left one is your bind indicator (usually orange = 100mbit, green 1gbit) and the second light is activity and usually flashes when data is transmitting
Although some vendors play fast and loose witht hat š
Nope haven't heard anything. I thought batch 1 buyers were offered to get the case for free except for shipping costs?
I got a reply from support with a 14 day period for further information, but this was on 7th September š
I'm not sure if all the people experiencing the green light issue are Dutch. But I had the same issue with the original DE10. In the end it was an issue with the firmware of my Odido modem. Try testing it with a different router if you have an Odido subscription. If it works with a different modem/router try contact the support on the official Odido forums and ask for a firmware upgrade. š Hope it helps.
Cisco switches behave this way. Greennlight gigabit and the green will blink with activity and orange 100Mb that will blink with activity. Nothing wrong with the mister
On my picture is orange because i forced the switch on that port to connect with only 100Mb
My Ethernet port behaves the same way and Iām fine with it, I donāt need anymore blinking lights in my life
but you will be tempted if Mister could control a led strip around the TV to do an ambilight effect, don't try to fool us
Only left light working
i guess people dont read /sigh
?
Left is the 100mbit indicator light, apparently
Ohhh. I thought it was an activity light.
Err right
It should be
Something should be blinking damnit! How will I know if itās working?! š
Yeah, I'm used to blinking ethernet ports haha.
Same behavior on the de10 nano IIRC
I would like a PoE MiSTer
There you go, Mister Poe. And it even rhymes.
I actually spent about 30 minutes seeing if there was a way to do that without just using a splitter
I think I've got the wrong ones on here? Could this be the cause of the loud volume issue someone noticed a while ago (if you turn down global volume when using analog trs audio it sounds correct)?
Those are the wrong/"bad" caps, yeah
when my volume is cranked in the UI it is indeed fuzzy and bad but turning it down even to 80% global it sounds like fine (though I haven't done a lot of testing)
I'll have to check if I have some 2.2nf caps in here
I bought the caps (100 of them lol) from my local store over the weekend but then ran out of solder while working on something else. š
Maybe if I throw all 100 at the board, two of them will stick in the right place.
I have a lot of random caps and resistors sitting around from building PedalPCB projects
it really is not a big deal, will likely use HDMI audio in almost every setting anyway and never notice
I might stick with optical out, but I want analogue audio to be fixed anyway.
yeah it's a real quick swap
...if you have solder haha.
and I'm going to forgot about this and which ones it is in a few months if I wait lol
Finally got my mister pi, finally time to play the latest killer app!!
Itās a timeless classic
I use a PoE Splitter in some of my LED controllers I built... I should try one on my MiSTer
I fried a hue hub with a splitter. So Iām hesitant.
With that said, my switch is powered by a splitter so š¤·
Everything should be Poe
I have a couple of these UniFi Flex Mini switches that are powered by PoE
they're so good
I just grabbed the 2.5g ones
oh I want those
Unfi is such a fucking rabbit hole. I built out a system and was like āok, thatās all I will ever needā¦ā
Narrator: that was not all he needed
One place where I have a mini is my basement TV, it's all finished with only RG6 running over there so I am using MoCA to get a hardwired connection
so no PoE for me there
have to use USBC like a pleb
So shameful
I searched for a moca adapter with poe but they dont exist
I do want to upgrade my moca adapters on that run to newer 2.5gbe ones and replace the flex mini with a 2.5gbe one
since I have some decently high bandwidth stuff on that switch
I don't have any 2.5gbe on the other end though. I guess I could use one of the SFP+ ports on my UDM Pro
When we bought this place in 2018 and I ordered $1000 in UniFi stuff I said thats all we would ever need.... you know how that works out
Do you live in castles?
And you also need Internet access on the other side of the moat
yes
oh I know how it works out...
Ooooo someone got that etherlighting
That's pretty cool. Gotta keep the dragons at bay
E T H E R L I G H T I N G
Iām not that fancy
I found some solder at a local shop and not my usual electronics store. Hmmm. Do I need a geiger counter?
In Communist Russia, something something
safe to eat!
Only the finest food-safe solder.
Heās fine thatās just flux fumes good for the lungs and eyes
healthy rosin from pine trees
From nature
it's what circuits crave
All credit goes to the talented actor, Alison Burke. Check out her TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@tired_actor/video/6912855387788102918
Dev meme via https://twitter.com/sanjazakovska/status/1352557733787152389
Does anyone know how the MiSTER Pi USB hub is powered? Is it from the upstream USB port (which is limited to 500mA) or the boards 5v rail (which is limited by the PSU) ?
And can one of the PWR USB ports be used to externally power the hub? š¤
5v rail, limited by the PSU.
I replaced my caps but the cracking sound in the psx and mega cd cores (and only those?!) is unbearable. Iāve restarted it etc but nothing changed. Guess Iāll have to return though wish I knew whatās wrong
have you tried turning down global volume to 70% or so
No I havenāt, will try thanks. I tried changing core volume
Thanks for confirming! Iām working on a project and weāve ran into something strange happening using an external cd drive. It works fine on the QMTEC IO board USB but not the MiSTER Pi USB Hub⦠any ideas?
I put both core and global to 70% and it eliminated the issue for me, though I still have the wrong caps in there
Anyone know what time the new batch is supposed to drop?
I'm powering my dvd-rom drive with an external 12v 2a adapter
It's an internal drive with a sata adapter on the back
Figured the 5v coming off the MiSTer wouldn't be enough for a disc drive
It wouldn't on a SATA drive
All we know is the 8th
We are using USB and it works fine on the QMTECH board but not MiSTER Pi. The project I'm working on, I was hoping it could be used across all boards, but based on these findings it might have to be DE10 and QMTECH only, which is shame. If anything changes I'll report back.
There hasnt been any confirmation on time.
I can check an see if it's at least showing up as a USB device on mine. I'm prepping a system in anticipation of TapTo's disc support
This is going to be a little after 10/8. We need to get mass production shells from a 2nd provider.
The store pages with the updated changes are live and listed out of stock:
A limited number of Turbo Kits will also be available for PayPal payment.
Well there it is