#Ender 5 Config with mods
1 messages Β· Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Done that
Everytime I do the bed tramp measurements are different π
Thats normal because the frame of the ender 5 Nonplus or pro has that shitty only 1 side mounted print bed.
There are printable arms that reenforce it
Never had any probs with mine on bed level, however when I moved it to a BTT E3V3 and I added the printer.cfg ie Klipper, make sure you acceleration for x/Y are not above 500mms as a start point, my cfg was set for 3000 and strangely it didn't like it.
Do your calibre as @spare birch said but check accel as that was my problem.
Interresting the permanently changing mesh was one of the major complains about it even in the definitly not paid reviews
Hmm maybe I am too noob to do config
How to kinda do bed tramming and bltouch setup?, since when I do the BL Touch then redo bed tramming it becomes <.<
To be fair the orig aluminium bed was shite, I added a glass bed for fatness and once I stopped that being shiny, the filament stuck just fine, rarely had to re level, not sure why I started faffing with it.
It's now Klipper and being converted to a core XY...
I have a glass bed <.<
Oh and never had the strengtheners on the bed, although have printed them in ABS for its latest upgrade.
Sand that bee-ach
So now how to do the bed tramming and fix BL touch?
i think the clamps are your problem. that way allows the glas to still wiggle
Glas is rock solid
Those squares look pretty decent
I think it's the bondtech extruder that needs calib
I take it you done e-steps
need to redo
Asking for 100 on a marked 120
Is your bond tech on top of the hot end
Ok, so where the filament feeds in to the extruder, mark it at 120mm before it goes inside
What filament..
some random PLA
Also do you have measuring calipers
I measure and cut it
Also you still using original screen or Klipper?
OG screen
I need to get it working before I go klipper
Ok, use menu to "move" the E motor by 100mm - usually 10mm at a time, but you can turn to 100, then click.
Its a while since Ive had Marlin
it's measured to 120mm
Yep
I will not press 100mm extrude
Measure 120mm---------------extrude 100mm
Then measure whats left between the Extruder and the sticker
Fingers crossed it's 20mm π
17mm
Ok, so that means you are extruding at 103%, does that make sense
'yes
NExt is go in to settings and see what the E-step count is for the E-motor/extruder
Even when hot?
Im just telling you what i know. It happens a lot that people do that with clamps and it never worked
Have you run a deviation test to see if your probe is too sensetive?
415 is recommeded by bondtech it's a 3:1 gear ratio
It's close, try this -
If you can't do a point, then 403, save it, then try the measurement again
To be sure
I do it woth pronter
YOur choice... π
retry time
Typo, but not on numbers
After this, you need to do flow calibration, which calibrates your filament - not your printer
Which slicer do you use..
If you changed you esteps to 403, this is the new value as you got 99 extruded -
Is it difficult to measure accurately?
a bit yes
Ok, try 405 then so you are in the middle of the two ]
At all?
not since 2022
#1421833510662180874 message
Going to try soon
I ended up on 19mm @uneven heart
SO you got 19 at 405 steps?
Is it is genuine BMG or a copy?
And has it got hold of the filament nicely.
Genuine BMG
Ok, so now a flow test
I can pop you a flow test gcode, but it's at your risk, personally Id prefer you downloading say Orca Slicer and setting it up for the Ender, you can save the file on your SD card then..
I ran a mapping of the plate you mean?
Ok, was about to send it, set it up for your E5 and make sure the acceleration is not above 500mms
Having food soon, so keep speed below 60mm, 3 walls, 3 bottom, 5 top layers - Use the calibration/flow rate/pass 2. It's an hour π¬
The BL touch should be ok as it runs separately on the printer
DOnt let it grind your glass...
Get it on Klipper π
you really recommend klipper so much more?
what raspberry pi do i need
because i Have a raspberry pi 2
no its a command that makes your printer probe a single point several times and gives you a deviation between
youll have to google for probe accuracy
K will do!
YOu know what the worse thing is, I have an ender 5 with mods for base + 1000 usd aswell <.<
What do you mean?
Well I built this one, but I wanted a bigger so I ordered a big ass one with mods
How big..
OG bondtech, all metal mosquito all metal
My biggest is 300mm3
I swapped my board for the BTT E3 V3, straight drop in replacement+code, much quieter and works easy with Klipper
I feel like the flow rate is bonkus or the Z offset
Printed another 100mm perfect shaped
Going to go out for a while, I will try again when back
Are those artict lines equal distance to each other?
The equal ones are different speeds
classic creality experience. you atleast admit it π
How to fix this mess π€£
good one
especially because we are only talking due you having a printer from a "good" brand
Should I move to klipper?, could that resolve the issues or is it me beign shit?
or is it that I am not getting calibration correct
So it looks like the X stop isn't in the right place, it looks to be printing off of the bed at the right
Did you do the flow test for that filament in Orca?
Also there is a lot of stringing, 1. do you have retraction enabled in the slicer. 2. what temp on the hotend are you using (you mentioned PLA)
Retraction is on, tried increasing speed reduced a bit of stringing, it's been soo long I forgot
I couldnt use Orca so had to go to Cura. 210 c recommended by addnorth
I'll leave you with @spare birch , I can't advise on Cura not used it for years
That X needs sorting though
Haha, it worked but I fucked it up, shouldnt have modded it too much in the beginning. Now I am here like a total looser 3 years later of it standing in the closet
call me reverse Midas
Which flowtest do you want me to run?
Getting battery for the digital caliper, then post the what it is.
Why is the edge wonked?
did you preview the gcode
Yes, had all levling etc
Slicee made a crease, but its like it canβt flow propertly, had to go buy batteries for the caliper, report back later π€
I bet in the sliver is .42
Silver π?
slicer
How funny when I changed it, result was .42 <.<
it's around 0.40-0.41
I know it's my favorite, but that looks like pressure advance is off
any way to like test print something?
Tried doing an advance K, and it doesnt even manage to extrude, calib
It creates the lines, but look at the figures, can it be the Hotend E3D V6?
I dissassembled it and put it together, today, going to give it a try
Never ever just install a preassembeld hotend. Make sure its hottightend at its max temp even better 5 to 10Β°k above
I assembled the V6 ages ago, I thought it might be the one that has issues, took it appart and just put it together, looked like I had tightened peopertly before, going to test it later gotta study for university, was thinking I might have had a heat creep.
I can try with the OG or go for the mosquito slice engineering which is for the Ender 5 Plus that I have. If this doesnt work I might remove the bondtech
You sure the spring tension isnt just too low
Tried with adjusting, as well
Left one is at the beginning printed slow and with high res, middle one with some adjustment right one after dissassembly
What do I do to fix the last artifact on the right one ?
You mean the cooling issue?
Also thanks guys for the support given so far! gotten alot further than I thought I would ever get and the printer would die in the scrub, going to go with Pi 5 and a Klipper config once this one is done π
I donβt think this is heat issue, its like it cannot extrude
Are you sure your tube isnt too short
Hmm should I try with new tube?
No mount it like the og with the cables etc
My guess is that it clamps down somewhere due no structure
going to try now,a bit better but not good enough
trying to dry the e-pla
yes
Still alot of not printing support layers etc and strining, I am beginning to question if it's the V6 or BMG
beacuse before I started modded I could do somwhat alot better prints, but it's also 3 years ago.
Issue is I did 5 mods at the same time
Trying to find the original ender hotend, also awating the PLA to dry
@uneven heart
Got pissed at Marlin when doing the config